ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 พ.ค. 2024
- 99 CENT Ender 3 v2 Filament Sensor - BEST upgrade for summer
You should install a filament sensor on your Ender 3 v2 and this video explains why and how you can do it for under 1 USD worth of parts - and it also has a second function being a filament guide preventing your filament from wearing out your extruder inlet and filament is less prone to break. Enjoy!
3D PRINTED PARTS
Ender 3 Filament runout sensor and guide with bearing optimized for 1.75mm
www.thingiverse.com/thing:481...
HARDWARE AND TOOLS
JST Connector Kit: geni.us/jstconnectors
Lever Switches: geni.us/microswitch
Cable, similar to this 26 AWG or THINNER will do geni.us/twowire26awg
Shrink tube kit: geni.us/shrinktubekit
FIRMWARE
Jyers Marlin branch, supporting Ender 3 v2 display
github.com/Jyers/Marlin/releases
VIDEOS YOU SHOULD ALSO CONSIDER WATCHING
How to upgrade your Ender 3 v2 to Marlin 2.0.X: • Ender 3 v2 Marlin 2.0 ...
How to upgrade the firmware on your Ender 3 v2 mainboard and display: • Ender 3 v2 Firmware up...
How to prepare your computer to build Marlin firmware: • Setup your Computer (P...
My detailed Ender 3 v2 review: • 🔥 Ender 3 v2 Review - ...
Watch the Ender 3 v2 build video: • Ender 3 V2 vs. V1 and ...
Awesome 3D printing timelapses on the Ender 2 v2: • AWESOME Ender 3 v2 Tim...
VIDEO CHAPTERS
0:00 Intro
0:53 Ingredients, Parts, Hardware
2:05 Building the sensor
3:47 Skillshare
4:43 Installing the sensor to the printer
6:00 Firmware installation
THE PRINTERS I USE: kit.co/danielcrosslink/the-3d...
MY MERCH: crosslink.io/shop
BECOME A PATRON: / crosslink
CHAT ON DISCORD: / discord
BUSINESS INQUIRIES ONLY (OR IF YOU WANT TO SEND SOMETHING) - DANIEL@CROSSLINK.IO
FOLLOW ME:
INSTAGRAM - / danielcrosslink
TWITTER - / danielcrosslink
FACEBOOK - / danielcrosslink
WEBSITE: crosslink.io
The Music I use: crosslink.io/es, AMAZING for TH-camrs!
GEAR USED
kit.co/danielcrosslink/my-vid...
Disclaimer: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Thanks a lot for this - in the end I went with reusing my Ender v2 Z-Stop switch and cable for free - because its now a spare part after I installed the BLtouch (which is a vitual Z-Stop as well). So I just printed a similar filament sensor from thingiverse, cut its cable in halve, made it long enough using a spare wire and plugged the 2-Pin JST connector end into the left 2 pins of the filament connector (right to the green terminal). I use "Professional Firmware for Ender 3 V2/S1 based on Marlin" from mriscoc, went in the menu to Advanced/Filamentsettings and turned "Enable Runout" on, set "Runout Active" to "low" and set "Runout distance" to "0 mm" so it reacts instantly when the z-stop micro switch is released.
Welp, bought $25 worth of parts to make the $1 switch but you know what? Always nice to have the extra parts for the future.
Looks like a very simple and important upgrade. Thanks for making this tutorial. I'll give it a shot!
Nice to know that newer versions of Jyers firmware already support a filament sensor. I wanted to add one on my printer for a while but was too lazy to compile my own firmware. Since I'm running an older build of his firmware I wasn't aware that the newer versions support a sensor natively
Thank you. This answered all my questions. Doing update today. Keep great videos like this coming.
Thanks! Hope you’re having fun with your printer!
THANK YOU!!!
It's near impossible to find anything specifically that says/shows connecting 'G' to 'S' when using a limit switch. 3 thumbs up!
Fantastic, normally if you try to execute the same as a video it doesn't work. In this case it was truely copy paste and it works. thanks for creating this toturial.
The intro is so cool, I loved it.
Thank you so much!
Many thanks for the video. The wiring and settings was really helpful and everything worked on this mod 1st time. The only difference that I used was sliding the sensor wire through the wiring loom; sheath this seemed to make sense to me and only meant snipping and replacing 2 zip ties.
Awesome! Good to see you’re successful!
Cool! Great video, I appreciate your hard work and dedication to useful and functional gadgets for my printer.
Thank you very much!
nice to see more people using jyers
Yeah, will make another video about it soon!
@@Crosslink3D That's epic. It's really a quality of life. Just the manual mesh leveling alone is what kept me learning and exploring 3d printing. I was so frustrated with a warped bed before Jyers. Thanks for the great content.
Great video like usual, well and easy explained. Thank you.
Glad you liked it!
Well done and excellent timing, Thank You, Sir.
Thanks!
This is awesome, though I went with the BigTreeTech smart filament sensor, because it handles detection of jams and clogs, which are the main problems I have. It's rare to accidentally run out of filament. The BTT sensor is amazing, and really not that expensive.
So helpful. Thank you very much
AWESOMENESS!! I already have everything I need, except for a roller micro switch. I have a regular one I might give a go, until the rollers come in. The link is up to 5.99 for the switches, so I'm gonna try being cheap, first. Haha!
intro 10/10 subbed immediately
Perfect...thanks
ive never ran out if filament in my 2 years and now it happened so time to get a sensor haha
Great Video, Quick question , are their any silent blower fans that will fit in the stock housing?
Thanks
This is a great video. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
This is awesome
Thanks for this Video
Hope you liked it :-)
For anyone curious I believe you need to get the JST-XH 2.54 connectors. Learn from my mistake.
Make sure you use the NC (Normally Closed) and C (Common) connections. This means that the switch in it's normal state will close the circuit and trigger the run-out sensor. With filament compressing the switch down, opens the circuit.
Not for me, have the 4.2.7. The Black must be in the Middle and the Red one left, so just the other way around as he shows as he plug it in.
@@adramelecfurry729 That seems weird because essentially as long as those two connections are occupying those two pins on the board, it shouldn't matter because it's still jumping the pins. I had a brain fart earlier and didn't realize that before posting
@@GoblinBlaster3000 I had figured out, that the Probe was to high so it does'nt always reacted to filament/no Filament. Had to bend it a bit down, now its working fine :)
I have the 4.2.2 board and ended up with the wrong connector as well. I wish I had read your comment first haha. Luckily I have a wire with a JST-XH 2.54mm connector I’m going to “borrow”.
Thanks for being specific about connector type. Wish it was clearer in the vidro description or link as I ended up buying wrong one first time round.
The linked connector is the wrong size. Other than that and a little tweek to the switch arm it appears to work well.
Just when I thought I am done with printer upgrades and I can move on to printing something other than upgrades, this comes up.. dang.. too good of an upgrade to pass up..
🤣👍
:-) you just made my day. Been curious on how i can use the jyers firmware and a fikanent sensor as they only offer bin files
ive some old pla thats a little brittle and occasionally i get a snap, this will save me loads of time, thanks.
Just toss it in the oven at 50C with ventilation... After 1-2h it should be like new
Great video, thanks for doing this. :D
It’s a pleasure 😉
Very nice video as always, just a question, if we are running klipper on the 4.2.2 mainboard then what settings do we need to setup to make it work?
A solder free method would be to use 1mm spade connectors on the switch legs. That way, should the switch ever fail (they don't fail a lot, but parts wear out) you could easily plug a new one right in. 🤔
Danke gutes Video
Danke!
Nice, thank you.
Welcome!
Very nice, thx.
Very useful video. What is runout distance ?
I'm gona use this for my anet am 8. Very nice!! 👍😁 i only need to change the design a litlle......
Just slightly, hehe
Hi, Great video. I am upgrading my ender 3 to the silent board and want to install a run out sensor. Must i upgrade the firmware or will it work standard? thanks
After deciding for an ender 3 max as additional printer I ask you if this filament sensor is better than the shipped? I ve read in some articles that the original sensor is not that good.
hi love the videos. can you help me, i dont know what firmware to put on with no bl touch and a filament sensor? I have 4.2.7
Can you make a sensor which can detect filament jam/clog please ?
very epic 💯
:-D
I was looking at this video but did you change red and black first red on the outside and when montage it is in the middle
Awesome video! I'm definitely keen to do this. Just wondering, what size ball bearing do I need to use?
Thanks
Bore diameter 8 mm
Outside diameter 22 mm
Width 7 mm
608 bearing
Is it possible to use other sensors with the jyer firmware such as the th3d sensor?
I noticed watching your video that the terminal you plug into the board.
The red wire is now in the centre pin and black closes to the green block .
Any reason for that ?
cura doesnt seem too detect my 3d printer it did on my old laptop though any fixes?
I noticed the red and black wiring on the plug side changes from the scene that he inserts the wires into the plug and the scene he plugs into the mcu. What is the explanation? I plugged mine in like this and the wires got insanely hot!
Hello
I have seen that the JST connectors are available in different grid sizes.
Is 2mm really the correct pitch ?
It is not 2.54mm ?
Greetings Per
That psu cover is 3d printed?
I saw many videos and the cover has only holes for the fan so people 3d print a new cover for better air flow.
Can I successfully flash my firmware, after installing filament sensor, to include a cr touch before my cr touch arrives?
does the load and unload only works with filament runout sensor? I would like to set it up to pull out the filament and load it for me when I'm changing spool
Im looking at applying this to my Ender 3v2, using the old Z stop switch. I have seen some guys do it with 3 wires and some do it with 2 wires....which is correct??
I have one of these, but the difference is i got the creality one from Amazon. Still need help installing the one i got. Thanks
So, what size connector is needed?? The provided link takes you to an Amazon page where you can select different size sets - 2.0, 2.54, etc. Which size is needed to fit the motherboard??
Hello, I did every things as is, but when the filament runout, the printer freeze.
hey i know its been a while since you uploaded this but i just got a btt sfs and i don't have a bltouch. is there a firmware for the filament sensor with out the bltouch on it? please help.
Can this work if you dont have the BL Touch upgrade?
Only having 32bit board and Jyers on a Ender 3 V2?
no matter what I do, I cannot get the roller for the switch to touch the filament to activate the switch, i printed it twice in 2 different filaments incase something was wrong with it. I got the exact same switch as in your video. Any suggestions on how I can fix it?
how to do with octoprint?
Always like your videos. With this one (at least for me) there’s something odd, when I load your Filament Guide.stl into Prusaslicer it comes in at 358 x 400 x 445mm. The stl from bleiseb loads as 35.8 x 40 x 40.1 which seems correct. It looks like yours scaled up by a factor of 10. Any ideas what happened?
I believe in the description there is some hint about printing it at 10% will add this to the description.
@@Crosslink3D Thanks, I'll try this.
Thanks for this video. This is great! Can this sensor be connected to a raspberry pi with Octoprint instead?
Sure, this will also work on a GPIO pin of the raspi
@@Crosslink3D can you explain , how can it work with raspberry pi?
Great idea for a new video!
Hello I tried this one time and the motherboard just crashes so I used the z end stop connector and I have the bltouch
Hello
I took the STL file and pushed it into the Cura Slicer but the part is much too big.
When I move the second file into the slicer, the size is correct but the first STL file is much too big
I then tried the Prusa Slicer and there I have exactly the same problem
What am I doing wrong or is the STL file simply faulty?
Greetings Per
Oh, since some time ago Chinese manufacturers started to supply such sensors with their printers. But many of them did not care about how stable it is with electronics they use. In many cases such things will give false-positive. And it is hugely depends not only on filtering circuit of such sensor on its own, but from motherboard circuits in general. So the downside for such cheap and simple thing - you are getting illusive insurance from 3d printing failure. And I am even not talking about leaving electronic device with heaters unattended without especial cares...
Hello and greatings from Germany. My Englisch language is Not so god an i am not shure wich firmware i have to install. I have a Ender Creality 3 V with a 4.4.2 Board an no BLT. I have the original Firmware and in the Info Display is V 1.0.2.
I have no problem it to make (Printing an prepaire the cable and switch). I am not shure by the Software / Firmware. Thanks for helping.
🔥❤👍
What can you tell us about the Jyers setting under filament runout called ‘runout length’? Is this the length of filament to keep using AFTER the runout has been detected? I ask because if it detects and triggers the ‘change filament’ right as the switch trips, then the extruder will eject pushing the filament back through the housing of the sensor. If the end of the filament has a kink, it could jam. If however, the extruder kept running for example for 30mm and THEN triggered the filament change sequence, AND if the sensor was slightly offset from the extruder input, the filament could freely back out alongside the sensor housing instead of back into it, potentially causing a jam.
Thoughts, feedback, commentary?
It is to tell it how far to back out fillament for change then how far to send the new fillamant back in
You remind me of Ed China!
Thanks for this video. This is great!
But I am a little confused
see video at 3.14min. you put black in the middle of the plug and red on the left, now go to 5.56min where the plug is put on board is red in the middle of the plug, what is correct?
The switch is just opening and closing the switch, the way it is used here the only thing that matters is that it is closed when the filament is in the bracket and open when it is not.....
Hi. Why is it you wired the plug going to the mainboard with red wire in one of outer terminals and black n center and when you plug it in they are inverted? Which one is it?
He said in another reply that he had to reshoot the scene, and mixed them up. It doesn’t matter as long as they correspond to the proper pin on mobo. This mod works really well. Haven’t had a runout, but simulated one by cutting filament. Everything worked as it should and print picked back up where it left off.
Would it not be better to invert the switch - then broken cable and missing filament, both unwanted errors, would be detected.
And you would not need to switch on the sensor in the options:
no sensor? no connection, so good to print
sensor? normally no connection, so good to prin.
(Backing out and inserting back in would be at default for you to change if needed anyway.)
Would you be able to show this firmware and how and ender 3 v2 with this firmware would work with octoprint or if there is a way having a filament runout sensor works with octoprint as well?
I'm about to get Octoprint set up using Octo4a (on an old Android phone) and I'm wondering how this sensor will work with it too. Guess it'll be time to experiment!
Hello, I have tried all the connection possibilities but it doesn't work. I have a 4.2.2 and when the switch is activated the printer is "freezed" it does nothing, the display does not work, the head does not move. Nothing. I have to activate the switch again and the printer resets at startup. Install firmware E3V2-Default-v4.2.2-v2.0.1.bin
I appreciate comments
This is a great mod! Worked great but……
I had a hard time after reloading the filament, I purged it a couple times the. Let it resume but the layers right after the restart didn’t stick, it ended up as spaghetti on top of the previous layers and I had to abort the print.
I’ll play around with some practice prints latter but any advice on how to successfully restart?
Probably the material was too cool already. Don’t wait too long to change the filament. You can increase the print temperature for a few layers manually. Or briefly heat up the top layer using a hot air pistol ( very briefly!)
The JST link was to jst-ph 2mm connectors, but it appears the connector (at least on 4.2.7) is not that size. What size should be used?
Just had the same issue and I have 4.2.2 The PH connectors are too small
Can this firmware be used in the E3 Pro with the 4.2.2 board (but with the basic LCD screen)? Thanks mate!
No, it's only for the Ender 3 v2 with the new screen. But you can get pre-compiled firmware at the firmware factory if you're one of my Patrons. dev.crosslink.io
Could this be done with the z endstop that comes with the ender? I have a bltouch and have found no use for it :P
The endstop that comes with the printer doesn't have the roller on it I guess. It's possible but it's going to be scratching a bit on the material if it retracts. I would recommend to get one of these cheap switches with roller on the lever. It's just safer
Someone made it with z stop limit switch. He uses a ball bearing in it. th-cam.com/video/cLIRyKsqQEs/w-d-xo.html
What is the pinout ground and signal ? Or vcc and signal? Donit same but the printer do nothing 4.2.2 and jyers latest bltouch firmware ... I use the z-stop unsoldered from base and connects it to the outer pin ... according to the multimeter ok ... But nothing :(
Me sucede lo mismo....nada!!!!!
Using Jyers E3V2-BLTouch-3x3-v4.2.2-v2.0.1.bin bc I use a BLTouch my sensor keeps telling my printer that the filament has run out. I test that the blue LED on the sensor is accurately responding to when filament is loaded and when it is not. The sensor seems to be detecting that ok. But when I tick the check box for Filament Sensor in the GUI and try to run a print when the filament is loaded up and ready to go it always parks the hotend and tells me Filament runout and prompts me to loadup more filament. This occurs whether I have the check box ticked on AND also when ticked off. The only way to get my printer working again without parking the hotend is to completely disconnect the sensor. Is this a wiring issue? Currently it's white, black, red.
I had the same thing so I gave up on it
99 CENT Ender 3 v2 Filament Sensor - BEST upgrade for summer
You should install a filament sensor on your Ender 3 v2 and this video explains why and how you can do it for under 1 USD worth of parts - and it also has a second function being a filament guide preventing your filament from wearing out your extruder inlet and filament is less prone to break. Enjoy!
When I import the stl into the slicer it goes really gigantic, IDK how to size it down to the correct size
10% size is probably right
I have a CR Touch. Do you think BL touch firmware will work?
Yes it works, I’ve tested it
@@Crosslink3D awesome!!! Thanks for the info
I have noticed just how much third party BL Touch firmware is available for the Ender 3 V2 whereas the Ender 3 has nowhere near as many, and I can't believe how Creality manages to turn out examples for every printer they sell that does not work, how does that come about? I mean they must test them before releasing and at some point, someone has to think oh It does not work, bah....! we will release it anyway.
what is the idff between 3x3 or 5x5 on the firmwares? sorry new and trying to learn
It's about how many grid points the probe will do.
@@Crosslink3D awesome I get it, ty for your videos , I watched alot and none got me actually working like yours did ty I was about to give up on it
I followed the directions here to the letter, and it does not work: when the filament runs out, the print continues on as if nothing has happened.
Note that I am using the Z-stop limit switch that I removed after installing a BLTouch and have the wires connected to the normally-closed connectors on the switch, as per your directions. I also have the very latest jyers firmware, as of three days ago, with 'filament sensor' checked on and saved (Jun. 22, 2021).
I found another video about using the z-stop limit switch and that video shows all three wires of the switch/motherboard connections being used, but following that video results in my printer halting with a 'thermal overrun' error after about an hour...I remove the connector from the motherboard, turn off 'filament sensor' in the firmware, and that error stops happening.
Please, can anyone tell me with 100% certainty, how a filament sensor switch should be wired, accounting for the fact that the 4.2.2/4.2.7 main board has a 3-pin connector on it?
I have the same problem. I'm using the same firmware, with filament sensor checked and the printer doesn't not recognize the sensor. I connected as per the video, ground and signal on the board to the NC on the switch. Let me know if you found a solution :(
@@edretrotech7559 I did find the solution, for me anyway: it turns out there's a setting in the firmware called 'Runout Length' (or something to that effect), whose purpose is to specify how many millimeters of filament can still be extruded AFTER the switch detects no more filament. Basically, this value needs to be set to somewhere close to, but less than, the distance (in millimeters) between the detector switch and your extruder gear.
My 'Runout Length' was set to 30cm by default, which means once the switch triggered, 30 more centimeters would be extruded before the 'no filament' event was raised. I never waited long enough for that to happen, and thus assumed the mechanism wasn't working.
I hope this helps your situation.
@@imacmill thank you for the fast reply! I just figured it out my issue. It was a mechanical one: my switch state wasn't changing. I was able to confirm with M119 where it was always on "triggered" (filament on). I bent my switch lever slightly and now it state changes to "open" when there is no filament :)
What size Bearing is used? Thank you!
608zz
@@Crosslink3D Thank you Sir! And thanks for the great videos!!
Did you switch the wires in the jst plug halfway the build? When you're talking about the sensor the Red one is on the end and the black wire in the middle. But when you're installing it in the motherboard they are reversed. Which is the right way to install it?
Actually iam little bit spectacle about the connector and wires placement, the connection is only made voltage and ground pins only, what about the signal pin which isnt connected ? (Most endstop sensors has signal wires)
I assume this method does not work with official creality firmware?!
March update supports filament sensor !!
I switched it accidentally because I had to re-shoot the closeup. It doesn’t matter which color is left or right as long as you’re using the same two pins on the mainboard. The switch has no polarity. The cables could also be both only black or only red.
@@darkmody a Switch always only needs two cables. It’s open or closed. There is no signal
@@Crosslink3D i think its the official creality firmware, my last update does not have the filament sensor support, then there is a march update that support filament sensor, as we speak i flashed the new firmware XD now i have a new problem :) sadly the bltouch is now preventing the z axis to move downwards. Any suggestions ? Im using the bltouch with the extension pcb
@@Crosslink3D thanks a lot for your reply and the guide. Works well for me!
I'm not using BL Touch accessory, Will your filament sensor going to work except BL Touch ?
Sure, they are independent
@@Crosslink3D nice ! i appreciate you. 👍
I have one of those crimp tools you shouldt get it 100%
Will try it!
@@Crosslink3D on bang good the are like 10/14€
This is a great tutorial, but, I don’t need 37 switches for $5.99, I need one.
Shouldt I update to jyers?
Definitely, it's so much better with the v2 display!
Very misleading video description, you meant to say how to build a filament switch for $75 by the time you buy a jst plug connector kit and a pack of bearings and a roll of wire and a roll of filament and whatever else you need.
If you have a cr/bl touch
This switch is ass
Use your z end stop
I have downloaded the STLs, but they are so huge, they don't fit on my Ender-3. Can anybody confirm that the STLs are unusable? Best regards Martin
Scale them to 10% as in the instructions
The JST connector kit listed is not the same as the Creality Mainboard connectors. I managed to make it work by cannibalizing the Z-limit switch connector - since I have a bltouch. I apologize for offending any cannibals....
same here, i think i got it right the second time.
Very nice video but you didn't tell us what bearing he wants
I used standard roller skate bearings 608ZZ
You can Pin this if you like.
After tinkering around with couple of end stops and firmware this is the result:
-Using the custom firmware as mentioned in the video can work well with any DIY end stop trigger without an integrated PCB.
-Using the official Creality firmware 1.3.1 that supports Bltouch and filament sensor (which it does not say it supports the sensor)..then you have to use the end stop trigger With an integrated PCB such as the one already installed on the creality itself.
While I tried to use a DIY trigger with the official firmware the machine detects the filament cut out but printer freezes until you replace the filament. But then the printer does not pickup from the last disrupted code, it will restart as if you are starting a new print.
Note: in both trials the signal pin had to be connected.
_HAH!_ 99¢ for all of those parts ( _already_ pressing 'X' for doubt ). Probably bought the parts back in 2019 and only just now thought about making something out of them or something... 🤣
99c to make, you only need a bunch of tools and materials that most people don't just have on hand that costs at least 30 bucks first. 🙄
Are you German