I took delivery of my 2023 VB WRX a week ago. The Subaru sales rep said I don’t need to worry about breaking in the motor. Also the Peak Boost gauge at delivery had a reading of 13.5 PSI. The odometer had 35 km on it when I took the keys. I have over 800 km on the car now and for the initial 1/2 of those km I followed the recommendations to baby the car while varying the load. There are a lot of conflicting recommendations going around.
I am now running in my new 2023 WRX this is now my 5th new WRX, with all my cars i drive them with Respect with No over revving or labouring for the first 1,600 kms. I have never had any engine problems, or oil usage. " Treat a new car with respect " 👍 Au
My car had 7 miles first time I started it. My break in process is driving it normally in a combination of city and freeway driving for at least 500 miles. On cold start up always let the engine idle until the computer brings the idle down to 1000 rpms or less. Change oil n filter after 1000 to 1500 miles then 4000 miles after that. Use full synthetic and OEM filters.
I did my 1st oil change at 700 miles. Next one will be at 3000 miles and then from after that it will be every 3500k-4k miles with a low SAPS oil like Penn ultra platinum or motul 8100 eco little efe 5w30 or 0w20 whichever u prefer for ur own variables..always oem filters.
Engines generally only run high idle RPM because they are trying to hit emissions targets - by heating up the catalytic converters more quickly, burning more efficiently etc. It isn't because it's "good" for the engine. So long as your oil isn't thick from the cold (winter) and you don't use heavy throttle, there is no need to wait for the rpm to stabilize. There are many videos and reports explaining this in a much more detailed manner.
One of the main key factors for rings to sit properly is to expose the engine to vacuum. Drive the car up to 70 to 80mph, and then let it coast (do this on an empty road or highway) until the mph gets to around 30, then repeat a few more times. Install a mechanical boost/vacuum gauge. On my rebuilt GTi, it read 22 in vacuum, extremely healthy engine. Hot/cold cycles also helps on engine break-in, so do simple spirited drives and let the engine cool off until the next day and drive it again. On mine I changed the oil only at 300 miles and then oil and filter at 1k miles. Key factor, let that engine see full vacuum at 22 when coasting, best thing for the rings and cylinder walls. Car is 10k in, no burning oil, strong compression.
It’s not just piston rings, it’s all bearing and mating surfaces inside the engine and the transmission as well, also brake linings. An easy break-in allows all these things to mate properly.
The best thing to do on cold starts ups is wait about 20 secs and start driving normally don’t go above 3rpm. The engine will reach operating temp way faster by doing that then sitting at idle for 3 to 5 min. You will be doing more harm then good.
I find it interesting everyone says variable speeds. If someone is taking their brand new vehicle on the highway (speeds up to 70mph) what amount of time do you think is too long to maintain that speed within the first 1000 miles? An hour? Two? Four? 30 minutes?
I just got my 24' WRX about a week ago, I grew up in lower income conditions, so this is my first brand new performance car, I never even heard of new car break in before as all my previous cars were pre-owns. I've been following the suggestions overall with keeping under 4000 rpms, it is a 6 speed. Though there are times when I have gotten it just above 4 to 5000 rpms, I commute to work every day with about an hr travel time both to and from work. I'm currently still under 300 miles, it had 6 miles when I drove it off the lot. It's a hard car to drive so carefully with so much power and torque at your fingertips I admit.
Not necessary. I've spoken with a Subaru regional engineer on this when I first bought my STI new in 2015, he said the STI and WRX motors are pre-broken in at the factory. All STI and WRX motors go through a series of stress and destress cycles as well as being put under full load with the turbo at various RPM cycles as well. They run the motor full boost/ load all the way to redline during these cycles as well. He said the motor is broken in, rings are completley sealed and seated by the time the the car leaves the factory. ***NOTE*** aside from this info, you should still follow the break in protocol per warranty reasons. Any warranty claims could be denied if the break in protocol in the owners manual is not followed.
@@akqjtn There's a video of a tour inside the Subaru factory in japan where the WRX and STI are built and it even shows the technicians going through these cycles on the motors it's pretty interesting to watch.
Everyone, its still important to note that yall should still follow the break in per warranty reasons. Any warranty claims will more than likely be denied if the "break in" wasn't followed.
Good, common sense advice and observations... Thanks for your focused perspective😊 Been following your lead in my my new 23 Tacoma.... I changed oil at 500 miles and am almost at 900 miles now and hope to enjoy it for a long time... I am generally a drive low RPM, boring, cruise control guy once break in is over... Hoping to have this truck last a long time. I appreciate your taking the time to address this wide open issue. While I understand the mechanical dynamics behind ring expansion and contraction, heat cycles etc, I have a real difficult time supporting the " drive it like you stole it" minority theory that is out there.. somehow, what you say makes a lot more sense, at least in production vehicles...
Hmm I didn’t know about changing oil at 500 miles. I just follow the manual which is every 6 months or 5k miles. But I do warm up (longer than most though), keep my RPMs under 4k (easy since I drive mostly local streets with speed cameras all over and speed limit 25-30), no speeding or gassing with a heavy foot, but hard to vary my RPMs as previously described with my local streets, and if on the rare occasion I drive on the highway, I baby the engine keeping it at 50ish mph. But my ‘23 4Runner is currently at 600-something miles. So I guess not too late to change the oil before its first dealer included service
One thing people don’t realize about Subarus and the warming up procedure is the long term CVT damage you can make by shifting to Drive or Reverse while in its warm up sequence. Attempt to place in neutral (some models will deactivate the sequence when you do this). The warm up sequence is there for a reason, allow it to do its thing and it will reward you by not shocking your transmission.
Generally good advice although I question the need to warm up the engine for 5-10 minutes, seems wasteful of time and fuel, but I keep the revs low until the temp gauge starts climbing. On the highway, I vary engine speed by using different gears at a given speed, even with an automatic (in manual mode), while staying below the mfr's break-in rev limit. I have also heard that the vacuum caused by engine braking (down-shifting to slow down) helps with break-in. Dealerships rarely mention break-in, it should be a priority. They don't mention it during a test drive, and since much of the benefit of following break-in comes in the first 100-200 miles, if you buy a new car with some test-drive miles on it, those previous drivers may have reduced your engine life and performance.
Something else I did was installed the catch can before any oil had a chance to reach the combusting chamber. It was comforting to see inside clean hoses and intercooler👌🏼
Catch cans are analogous to snake oil. If they were beneficial the engineers would have integrated them into the design. Although if they help you sleep better, no harm no foul.
My first oil change on my 2022 RAV4 2.5 4-cyl was at 1,200 miles (1,931.21 km), the second was at 4,200, and the third will be at 10,000 miles (16,093.44 km). Future oil changes will be when the odometer advances between 5,000 and 7,500 miles (12,070.08 km), depending on how much of it was city driving and how much highway. If all I did was highway driving, I'd change it every 10,000 miles.
Thank you for making this video why because I'm starting a new job at Toyota dealership in lachine Spinelli Toyota I will have a brand new Toyota Sienna never driven at all so now I have the idea of what to do .I currently drive a sedan Toyota Corolla 2014 and my car is perfectly fine but they never tell you this in the dealership about this why most of the stuff I'm learning is from you tube videos . Watching from Montreal Quebec Canada.
I let the engine warm up before every drive until it gets around 1k. I think I did a good job breaking the car in. What drive mode do you normally use? I'm usually in sport mode 90% of the time.
Boost & Shutter I keep mine in intelligent most of the time... I don’t like the boost surge during regular driving... but when someone wants to have fun s# it is
I have a master mechanic that does engine overhaul. The first thing he does is redline the engine in stationary mode for 3-5 seconds 10x. So that the piston rings and valves will set. No problem at all.
Don't buy a car that's been test driven by buyers. They always want to see how fast it takes off and that's BAD for a new car. When you pay for new... demand brand new with less than 15 miles on it. You don't want a beat car.
The only other person that has drove my car is an old man who worked for the dealer that brought it over from another dealership in Tennessee. The car had just got there 2 days before he drove it over, even arrived to my dealer with all the foam and plastic lol. 😂
@@xB2KxRewindZ I'm gonna be blunt, I don't know what car you've got BUT I've seen what some transporters/ lot guys do to both brand spanking new cars and used trade ins. And unless that dealership has its own gas station. Ask yourself this, did your car come with a full tank of gas?
I have a new JL manual 2 door wrangler sport with 3000 miles. I always let her oil flow upon cold start, to when her computer tells her engine to come back down to 1k rpm I changed my oil and filter around 1000mi, and will do so again at 5000 and then every 5000 after that, with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum which is what I've decided on after doing a fair amount of Research, Yes consult your manuals every car manufacturer has different guidelines but most say no extreme driving but good to vary speed, and full pedal acceleration under 4K rpm. I hope to get to enjoy this beautiful cool machine for years to come
I have a 2020 wrx base model and since I bought the car with 6 miles on it people have told me they see clouds of smoke coming from the tail pipes upon acceleration. I cant see so I dont know if its only during boost or during acceleration in general. I this normal to see smoke from time to time or should I be worried
right guy; last video I told you to take your hand off the shifter when just driving around. This video the tip is to keep at least one hand on the wheel at all times.
I just got my 2020 STI yesterday! Did you do the break in for the parking brake as well? I saw it in your video and then looked in the manual. I have never heard of that before.
@Captain Buff The Third I'm no English teacher lol I would say your best chance to keep the warranty is to have the dealer tech do it for you. My dealer will void it if they can prove that the aos caused an issue. I find it rediculous because it's obviously helping the long term reliability of the engine. I want one for mine also. I'd talk to your dealer ve straite up with them and see what happens. At the end of the day it's your car it's ultimately up too you
A warranty cannot be voided. A dealership can deny coverage of they think a particular mod caused a certain damage. If this is the case, simply take it to another dealership. They aren't all the same.
Literally ordered mine and picked it up from the dealer before anyone had a chance to drive it for this very reason. I don’t see why anyone would even risk it if the car is brand new. Maybe it works, maybe not.. but why even risk it right?!🤷🏻♂️
Boost & Shutter That’s still pretty decent considering mine only had 4-5 miles. Essentially eliminated them having to drive it to pick up gas. Instead, I worked it out with my dealer to give me a gas card so they wouldn’t have to.
Just wondering if you had an oil separator on your WRX? Can you or should you have the catch can as well? Noob question I know but I'm still learning. Thanks
I had the oil & filter changed on my 2023 Lexus ES300h, Ultra Luxury trim at 1,000 miles and again at 6,000 miles. I also change the oil & filter on both of our vehicles every 5,000 miles or six-months, whichever occurs first. Why, well just watch "The Motor Oil Geek" on TH-cam and his discussion about why you change the oil & filter in the first 1,000 miles on any new car and at about 5,000 miles thereafter. You will see why and as Scotty and The Car Care Nut say, oil & filters are cheap, engines are expensive. LOL
Going to get my new car soon, I definitely need to use the highway to reach another state so what do you mean don't keep same engine speed?Meaning I can't maintain like 90km/h for long time??like how long is long ?What I am stuck in a heavy traffic for hours???
@@akqjtn ok the highway part alternate gears how long will u stay on 6th gear before changing to 5th? Because it will be tiring to keep on changing gear every 1-3 minutes
@@akqjtn Thanks man. Reassuring to hear this. I just got a new mustang with 19.6 miles on it. I heard the sales guys revving it up quite a few times every time they moved it or even just starting it because it does sound really good... but I was not pleased with them. And then I had to drive it almost 150 miles to get it back home. This was before I knew much about breaking in cars. I did have to adjust speeds every now and then but I did use cruise for a lot of it. I want to keep it for a long while and I'm very nervous that it may have been poorly broken in. Has 400 miles on it now
@@Road_Work_Ahead it probably was poorly broken. Specially if the salesman revving it during a cold start. But on the bright side I think the mustang has a factory 5k revv limit while parked so who knows .
Boost & Shutter, thanks for the advice. I just bought a 2020 STI last week and I am about to place SoundSkins on the doors with upgraded kicker speakers, with the help of another one of your videos. Keep up the great work with these videos , and I’ll keep watching.
A catch can shouldn’t void warranty on the contrary it helps your engine stay clean. But with dealerships you never know. Believe me they look for the smallest modifications in order not to honor it.
Hello, just waiting on my forester sti to come back from getting forged engine, I've been told to change oil after 100 miles, then 500 miles and then 1000 during the break in period, but I'm going to be very strict with myself during this process anyway. Well done on new car looks great you have my sub 😁
@@akqjtn yeah that's my intentions just use cheapish oil untill after the 1k mark then put good stuff in. Is it hard to keep yourself disciplined to keep it steady 😂
@Captain Buff The Third basicly the guy said after 100 miles change the oil from what he put in the engine as he's putting a running in oil for me first... So I will just be putting in average oil rather than top quality stuff as I will be dropping it at 500 miles then again at 1k. I feel it would be a waste of money to put good expensive oil in to drop it straight out pretty much. Once I'm on the 1k mark I will be using nothing but the best quality oil I can get. Sadly when I bought my sti I didn't intend to forge the engine. I bought the car and drove it 170 miles then it got rodknock, I feel the previous owner knew something that I couldn't find on test drive. It is what it is, but at least I'm getting a new stronger engine out of it 😬
@Captain Buff The Third thank you mate, and yes I beleive that's the reason why as it's been rebored and what not so there is a chance for small impurities. And totally agree people can be c**ts when it comes to selling cars... When I sold my type r I refused to sell it to the buyer untill a week later as it had a dodgey starter motor and snapped knock sensor and I wanted to sell a nice honest car.. thing is not ever one works the same and not all people are decent sadly so alot of the time buying second hand cars means u can buy some douche bags problems.. and I hate them people that give douchey TH-cam comments... it's pointless... Happy Christmas guys!
I was told by the Subaru mechanic you don't need to break it in. He also said two things you should never do with a Subaru is: 1. Never high rev the engine when it's cold. 2. never high rev the engine when the cars at a standstill.
I'm confused. You said, to start the car 5-10min before you go (to warm it up), but then you said, never let it sit at const RPMs. So, which one is it?
I can’t answer for him, but I warm the car up by driving it very easily until it reaches normally operating temperature. Then I will drive it normally after that, following the break-in limits until the engine is broke-in.
Many WRX owners get engine problems because they do not follow the break in period for the engine. Drive it like you stole it is a very good idea for a dealership to say, as they know the costumer will come back in a couple of years for a new engine. The WRX engine is not pre-broken in
I forgot to do my break in process. 🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️I baby the hell out of it until I hit over 1k mark. But I changed it at 3k mark. Wasn't thinking mistakes happened 🤷🏾♂️🤷🏾♂️
did u ever had ur engine have shavings when u first did an engine oil change on a brand new subaru? we had some in our boxer engine, hopefully i believe its just he break in period?
Amazing car! Congrats! When you started mentioning "modern engines" it was a bit ironic as the 2020 STi still uses a 16 year old motor with no significant changes. Would this mean a more old school approach to the break in procedure would be needed to accommodate the older tech??
All of Toyotas owners manuals state 761 miles. Yeah, odd number, but yet, that is what is stated. I plan to drive my new Ford Maverick on or about 1000 miles before I do the first oil change. I ALWAYS do the first oil change early because>>>>> -There may be some metal shavings or dirt left over from manufacture -There WILL be excess metal in the oil from those breakin miles. Dump all that at 1000 and you will do your new engine a great favor. and help it to last FOREVER. !
Baby any new car, if you can pick it from the factory line even better. Those GT's (get tortured) at delivery time and computer odometer rolled back to zero🤣
Owner's manual is 'vague'? Verbiage is 'open to interpretation'??? How can specific instructions along the lines of -'for the first 1,000-miles'; and 'use part throttle'; and 'don't exceed 4,000-rpm'; and 'vary engine speed as much as possible'; and don't haul heavy loads'; etc. be misinterpreted that way? These are very specific and require no form of 'interpretation' to understand what a proper break-in procedure entails. I think a bigger problem is not enough owners make the effort to actually read their owners manual. Instead of following these clear directions, they rely on passed-down and often inaccurate and potentially harmful misinformation.
I'm not convinced on the 1k oil change. Oil changes are too get rid of spent oil/filters. If your oil or filter is done at 1k, an oil change ain't gunna help
That's not the point. On a brand new engine, you WILL get metal particles, and these are mostly caught in the sump (if you have a magnetic sump plug) and in the oil filter. Replacing the filter and oil removes much of this debris, and greatly reduces the chance of them circulating in the oil and grinding surfaces away or blocking oil galleries.
You are not supposed to run engine at same RPM for an extended period Any Yet You say you warm up you engine by idling at the same RPM for 10 minutes.- which is not a good thing - At All...🤡
I took delivery of my 2023 VB WRX a week ago. The Subaru sales rep said I don’t need to worry about breaking in the motor. Also the Peak Boost gauge at delivery had a reading of 13.5 PSI. The odometer had 35 km on it when I took the keys. I have over 800 km on the car now and for the initial 1/2 of those km I followed the recommendations to baby the car while varying the load. There are a lot of conflicting recommendations going around.
I am now running in my new 2023 WRX this is now my 5th new WRX, with all my cars i drive them with Respect with No over revving or labouring for the first 1,600 kms. I have never had any engine problems, or oil usage. " Treat a new car with respect " 👍 Au
My car had 7 miles first time I started it.
My break in process is driving it normally in a combination of city and freeway driving for at least 500 miles. On cold start up always let the engine idle until the computer brings the idle down to 1000 rpms or less.
Change oil n filter after 1000 to 1500 miles then 4000 miles after that. Use full synthetic and OEM filters.
I did my 1st oil change at 700 miles. Next one will be at 3000 miles and then from after that it will be every 3500k-4k miles with a low SAPS oil like Penn ultra platinum or motul 8100 eco little efe 5w30 or 0w20 whichever u prefer for ur own variables..always oem filters.
Engines generally only run high idle RPM because they are trying to hit emissions targets - by heating up the catalytic converters more quickly, burning more efficiently etc.
It isn't because it's "good" for the engine. So long as your oil isn't thick from the cold (winter) and you don't use heavy throttle, there is no need to wait for the rpm to stabilize.
There are many videos and reports explaining this in a much more detailed manner.
Thanks for saving me the time @@Wallstreetavarice
Great video! What I’ve done in the past and stay off the freeways and highways and just city drive for the first 600-1000 miles
This guy has some good common sense tips.
Especially the part about changing oil after first 1000 miles.
How can you do that ih they are threatening you with the warranty loss?
@@sebastianisakovic6527u can't lose ur warranty from changing the oil
One of the main key factors for rings to sit properly is to expose the engine to vacuum. Drive the car up to 70 to 80mph, and then let it coast (do this on an empty road or highway) until the mph gets to around 30, then repeat a few more times. Install a mechanical boost/vacuum gauge. On my rebuilt GTi, it read 22 in vacuum, extremely healthy engine.
Hot/cold cycles also helps on engine break-in, so do simple spirited drives and let the engine cool off until the next day and drive it again. On mine I changed the oil only at 300 miles and then oil and filter at 1k miles.
Key factor, let that engine see full vacuum at 22 when coasting, best thing for the rings and cylinder walls.
Car is 10k in, no burning oil, strong compression.
It’s not just piston rings, it’s all bearing and mating surfaces inside the engine and the transmission as well, also brake linings. An easy break-in allows all these things to mate properly.
The best thing to do on cold starts ups is wait about 20 secs and start driving normally don’t go above 3rpm. The engine will reach operating temp way faster by doing that then sitting at idle for 3 to 5 min. You will be doing more harm then good.
I find it interesting everyone says variable speeds. If someone is taking their brand new vehicle on the highway (speeds up to 70mph) what amount of time do you think is too long to maintain that speed within the first 1000 miles? An hour? Two? Four? 30 minutes?
I just got my 24' WRX about a week ago, I grew up in lower income conditions, so this is my first brand new performance car, I never even heard of new car break in before as all my previous cars were pre-owns. I've been following the suggestions overall with keeping under 4000 rpms, it is a 6 speed. Though there are times when I have gotten it just above 4 to 5000 rpms, I commute to work every day with about an hr travel time both to and from work. I'm currently still under 300 miles, it had 6 miles when I drove it off the lot. It's a hard car to drive so carefully with so much power and torque at your fingertips I admit.
Not necessary. I've spoken with a Subaru regional engineer on this when I first bought my STI new in 2015, he said the STI and WRX motors are pre-broken in at the factory. All STI and WRX motors go through a series of stress and destress cycles as well as being put under full load with the turbo at various RPM cycles as well. They run the motor full boost/ load all the way to redline during these cycles as well. He said the motor is broken in, rings are completley sealed and seated by the time the the car leaves the factory.
***NOTE*** aside from this info, you should still follow the break in protocol per warranty reasons. Any warranty claims could be denied if the break in protocol in the owners manual is not followed.
@@akqjtn There's a video of a tour inside the Subaru factory in japan where the WRX and STI are built and it even shows the technicians going through these cycles on the motors it's pretty interesting to watch.
You made my day cause did not break point my engine at all.
Hey man you think you can find that video. Ill love to see it. TIA
put 50 miles on my built evo motor before ramming 40psi into it, no problems at all.
Everyone, its still important to note that yall should still follow the break in per warranty reasons. Any warranty claims will more than likely be denied if the "break in" wasn't followed.
Good, common sense advice and observations... Thanks for your focused perspective😊 Been following your lead in my my new 23 Tacoma.... I changed oil at 500 miles and am almost at 900 miles now and hope to enjoy it for a long time... I am generally a drive low RPM, boring, cruise control guy once break in is over... Hoping to have this truck last a long time. I appreciate your taking the time to address this wide open issue. While I understand the mechanical dynamics behind ring expansion and contraction, heat cycles etc, I have a real difficult time supporting the " drive it like you stole it" minority theory that is out there.. somehow, what you say makes a lot more sense, at least in production vehicles...
Hmm I didn’t know about changing oil at 500 miles. I just follow the manual which is every 6 months or 5k miles. But I do warm up (longer than most though), keep my RPMs under 4k (easy since I drive mostly local streets with speed cameras all over and speed limit 25-30), no speeding or gassing with a heavy foot, but hard to vary my RPMs as previously described with my local streets, and if on the rare occasion I drive on the highway, I baby the engine keeping it at 50ish mph. But my ‘23 4Runner is currently at 600-something miles. So I guess not too late to change the oil before its first dealer included service
One thing people don’t realize about Subarus and the warming up procedure is the long term CVT damage you can make by shifting to Drive or Reverse while in its warm up sequence. Attempt to place in neutral (some models will deactivate the sequence when you do this). The warm up sequence is there for a reason, allow it to do its thing and it will reward you by not shocking your transmission.
Generally good advice although I question the need to warm up the engine for 5-10 minutes, seems wasteful of time and fuel, but I keep the revs low until the temp gauge starts climbing. On the highway, I vary engine speed by using different gears at a given speed, even with an automatic (in manual mode), while staying below the mfr's break-in rev limit. I have also heard that the vacuum caused by engine braking (down-shifting to slow down) helps with break-in. Dealerships rarely mention break-in, it should be a priority. They don't mention it during a test drive, and since much of the benefit of following break-in comes in the first 100-200 miles, if you buy a new car with some test-drive miles on it, those previous drivers may have reduced your engine life and performance.
Just ordered my STI on Saturday. May change stock wheels did you sell yours and if so Craigslist or what’s the best place?
Something else I did was installed the catch can before any oil had a chance to reach the combusting chamber. It was comforting to see inside clean hoses and intercooler👌🏼
Boost & Shutter I’m jealous! AOS is better. Looking forward to the install video amigo🤙🏼
Catch cans are analogous to snake oil. If they were beneficial the engineers would have integrated them into the design. Although if they help you sleep better, no harm no foul.
My first oil change on my 2022 RAV4 2.5 4-cyl was at 1,200 miles (1,931.21 km), the second was at 4,200, and the third will be at 10,000 miles (16,093.44 km). Future oil changes will be when the odometer advances between 5,000 and 7,500 miles (12,070.08 km), depending on how much of it was city driving and how much highway. If all I did was highway driving, I'd change it every 10,000 miles.
great questions and answers!I have a one year old STI with 875 miles!
Daniel Locke get out and drive your car man ... she likes to be driven
Drive your fucking car jeez
Thank you for making this video why because I'm starting a new job at Toyota dealership in lachine Spinelli Toyota I will have a brand new Toyota Sienna never driven at all so now I have the idea of what to do .I currently drive a sedan Toyota Corolla 2014 and my car is perfectly fine but they never tell you this in the dealership about this why most of the stuff I'm learning is from you tube videos . Watching from Montreal Quebec Canada.
I may take delivery of a new virhicle out of state and drive it home. About 700 miles on highway. Thoughts???
I let the engine warm up before every drive until it gets around 1k. I think I did a good job breaking the car in. What drive mode do you normally use? I'm usually in sport mode 90% of the time.
Boost & Shutter I keep mine in intelligent most of the time... I don’t like the boost surge during regular driving... but when someone wants to have fun s# it is
I have a master mechanic that does engine overhaul. The first thing he does is redline the engine in stationary mode for 3-5 seconds 10x. So that the piston rings and valves will set. No problem at all.
Just traded my my WRX for a new Tacoma TRD Pro. Thank you for the solid content 👍, very helpful info.
You'll be back, I traded for a Ram Rebel love the truck but the Wrx/Sti platform is hard to leave long term
Toyota is having all kinds of issues with their new engines
Don't buy a car that's been test driven by buyers. They always want to see how fast it takes off and that's BAD for a new car. When you pay for new... demand brand new with less than 15 miles on it. You don't want a beat car.
The only other person that has drove my car is an old man who worked for the dealer that brought it over from another dealership in Tennessee. The car had just got there 2 days before he drove it over, even arrived to my dealer with all the foam and plastic lol. 😂
we just got one with 13 miles in it... we test drove it to 15 miles.
@@xB2KxRewindZ I'm gonna be blunt, I don't know what car you've got BUT I've seen what some transporters/ lot guys do to both brand spanking new cars and used trade ins. And unless that dealership has its own gas station. Ask yourself this, did your car come with a full tank of gas?
I just bought a truck with 40. Now I'm wondering about that. Usually I get them with under 10
@@User-q6x3b Sometime dealers take them to other dealerships... or maybe a salesman took it home for a while.
I have a new JL manual 2 door wrangler sport with 3000 miles. I always let her oil flow upon cold start, to when her computer tells her engine to come back down to 1k rpm
I changed my oil and filter around 1000mi, and will do so again at 5000 and then every 5000 after that, with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum which is what I've decided on after doing a fair amount of Research,
Yes consult your manuals every car manufacturer has different guidelines but most say no extreme driving but good to vary speed, and full pedal acceleration under 4K rpm.
I hope to get to enjoy this beautiful cool machine for years to come
I have a 2020 wrx base model and since I bought the car with 6 miles on it people have told me they see clouds of smoke coming from the tail pipes upon acceleration. I cant see so I dont know if its only during boost or during acceleration in general. I this normal to see smoke from time to time or should I be worried
right guy; last video I told you to take your hand off the shifter when just driving around. This video the tip is to keep at least one hand on the wheel at all times.
LOL!
I just got my 2020 STI yesterday! Did you do the break in for the parking brake as well? I saw it in your video and then looked in the manual. I have never heard of that before.
What about adding zmax to new engine
Excellent video, great detail and highly informative!
What type of oil are you going to use?
Boost & Shutter why not Motul or Idemitsu (OEM Subaru)?
Will a aftermarket AOS void the warranty?
Yes it will.
@Captain Buff The Third I'm no English teacher lol I would say your best chance to keep the warranty is to have the dealer tech do it for you. My dealer will void it if they can prove that the aos caused an issue. I find it rediculous because it's obviously helping the long term reliability of the engine. I want one for mine also. I'd talk to your dealer ve straite up with them and see what happens. At the end of the day it's your car it's ultimately up too you
@Captain Buff The Third just go for it bro we only live once right?
A warranty cannot be voided. A dealership can deny coverage of they think a particular mod caused a certain damage. If this is the case, simply take it to another dealership. They aren't all the same.
Awsome video. Great info.
Literally ordered mine and picked it up from the dealer before anyone had a chance to drive it for this very reason. I don’t see why anyone would even risk it if the car is brand new. Maybe it works, maybe not.. but why even risk it right?!🤷🏻♂️
Boost & Shutter That’s still pretty decent considering mine only had 4-5 miles. Essentially eliminated them having to drive it to pick up gas. Instead, I worked it out with my dealer to give me a gas card so they wouldn’t have to.
Username 1991 that’s a good point. I’m looking to get my 2nd STI used to have a wagon. On this new ones how do you check prior boost reading ?
I envy you for having a Subaru with a stickshift. I miss it so much.
You’re awesome! Great video!
Just wondering if you had an oil separator on your WRX? Can you or should you have the catch can as well? Noob question I know but I'm still learning. Thanks
Same same
I had the oil & filter changed on my 2023 Lexus ES300h, Ultra Luxury trim at 1,000 miles and again at 6,000 miles. I also change the oil & filter on both of our vehicles every 5,000 miles or six-months, whichever occurs first.
Why, well just watch "The Motor Oil Geek" on TH-cam and his discussion about why you change the oil & filter in the first 1,000 miles on any new car and at about 5,000 miles thereafter. You will see why and as Scotty and The Car Care Nut say, oil & filters are cheap, engines are expensive. LOL
Going to get my new car soon, I definitely need to use the highway to reach another state so what do you mean don't keep same engine speed?Meaning I can't maintain like 90km/h for long time??like how long is long ?What I am stuck in a heavy traffic for hours???
@@akqjtn ok the highway part alternate gears how long will u stay on 6th gear before changing to 5th? Because it will be tiring to keep on changing gear every 1-3 minutes
@@akqjtn thanks bro it really helps a lot
@@akqjtn Thanks man. Reassuring to hear this. I just got a new mustang with 19.6 miles on it. I heard the sales guys revving it up quite a few times every time they moved it or even just starting it because it does sound really good... but I was not pleased with them. And then I had to drive it almost 150 miles to get it back home. This was before I knew much about breaking in cars.
I did have to adjust speeds every now and then but I did use cruise for a lot of it. I want to keep it for a long while and I'm very nervous that it may have been poorly broken in. Has 400 miles on it now
@@Road_Work_Ahead it probably was poorly broken. Specially if the salesman revving it during a cold start. But on the bright side I think the mustang has a factory 5k revv limit while parked so who knows .
When you change your oil after 1k miles, do you change the oil filter as well?
Yes! The filter traps all the metal shavings, so it’s a good idea to change the filter along with oil.
🤦
Would an AOS or catch can void warranty?
Boost & Shutter, thanks for the advice. I just bought a 2020 STI last week and I am about to place SoundSkins on the doors with upgraded kicker speakers, with the help of another one of your videos. Keep up the great work with these videos , and I’ll keep watching.
A catch can shouldn’t void warranty on the contrary it helps your engine stay clean. But with dealerships you never know. Believe me they look for the smallest modifications in order not to honor it.
Hello, just waiting on my forester sti to come back from getting forged engine, I've been told to change oil after 100 miles, then 500 miles and then 1000 during the break in period, but I'm going to be very strict with myself during this process anyway. Well done on new car looks great you have my sub 😁
@@akqjtn yeah that's my intentions just use cheapish oil untill after the 1k mark then put good stuff in. Is it hard to keep yourself disciplined to keep it steady 😂
@Captain Buff The Third basicly the guy said after 100 miles change the oil from what he put in the engine as he's putting a running in oil for me first... So I will just be putting in average oil rather than top quality stuff as I will be dropping it at 500 miles then again at 1k. I feel it would be a waste of money to put good expensive oil in to drop it straight out pretty much. Once I'm on the 1k mark I will be using nothing but the best quality oil I can get.
Sadly when I bought my sti I didn't intend to forge the engine. I bought the car and drove it 170 miles then it got rodknock, I feel the previous owner knew something that I couldn't find on test drive. It is what it is, but at least I'm getting a new stronger engine out of it 😬
@Captain Buff The Third thank you mate, and yes I beleive that's the reason why as it's been rebored and what not so there is a chance for small impurities. And totally agree people can be c**ts when it comes to selling cars... When I sold my type r I refused to sell it to the buyer untill a week later as it had a dodgey starter motor and snapped knock sensor and I wanted to sell a nice honest car.. thing is not ever one works the same and not all people are decent sadly so alot of the time buying second hand cars means u can buy some douche bags problems.. and I hate them people that give douchey TH-cam comments... it's pointless... Happy Christmas guys!
I was told by the Subaru mechanic you don't need to break it in. He also said two things you should never do with a Subaru is: 1. Never high rev the engine when it's cold. 2. never high rev the engine when the cars at a standstill.
A mechanic doesn’t know anything.
The actual Subaru engineers know, they have degrees from Japan and work in japan.
The mechanic isn’t paying for the car you are !
I'm confused. You said, to start the car 5-10min before you go (to warm it up), but then you said, never let it sit at const RPMs. So, which one is it?
I can’t answer for him, but I warm the car up by driving it very easily until it reaches normally operating temperature. Then I will drive it normally after that, following the break-in limits until the engine is broke-in.
7:59 ...he was checking out a hottie.
Many WRX owners get engine problems because they do not follow the break in period for the engine. Drive it like you stole it is a very good idea for a dealership to say, as they know the costumer will come back in a couple of years for a new engine.
The WRX engine is not pre-broken in
fck me. i went over 4000RPM many times the car has only 600 miles .how bad is it for the engine ? anyone ?
I wouldn't worry about it too much. While not ideal, it's not nearly as bad in a modern engine as it would be in an older one
I forgot to do my break in process. 🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️I baby the hell out of it until I hit over 1k mark. But I changed it at 3k mark. Wasn't thinking mistakes happened 🤷🏾♂️🤷🏾♂️
did u ever had ur engine have shavings when u first did an engine oil change on a brand new subaru? we had some in our boxer engine, hopefully i believe its just he break in period?
Perfectly normal to have tiny metal shavings in your oil during break in.
If it says not to exceed 4000rpms... just that alone tells you to not drive it like you stole it
Amazing car! Congrats! When you started mentioning "modern engines" it was a bit ironic as the 2020 STi still uses a 16 year old motor with no significant changes. Would this mean a more old school approach to the break in procedure would be needed to accommodate the older tech??
@@akqjtn haha yeah carb old is getting a little TOO old. I just picked up a 2020 STi. 800 miles, so almost through the painful process!
Drive normally, don't lug the engine or high rev not under a load, change the oil at the suggested interval (~5000 mi) and your new car will be fine.
All of Toyotas owners manuals state 761 miles. Yeah, odd number, but yet, that is what is stated.
I plan to drive my new Ford Maverick on or about 1000 miles before I do the first oil change. I ALWAYS
do the first oil change early because>>>>>
-There may be some metal shavings or dirt left over from manufacture
-There WILL be excess metal in the oil from those breakin miles.
Dump all that at 1000 and you will do your new engine a great favor. and help it to last FOREVER.
!
Down shifting or "engine braking" as you put it, uses zero gas. You're only using gas when you accelerate
Its hard to drive an STI slow...😅
Loading the engine and engine braking.
Baby any new car, if you can pick it from the factory line even better. Those GT's (get tortured) at delivery time and computer odometer rolled back to zero🤣
I don’t understand the concept of not going over 4k while at the same time going thru the full range of rpm’s 💁♂️
10 minute of idle on a 0 mile motor or fresh rebuild is a bit much.
Owner's manual is 'vague'? Verbiage is 'open to interpretation'??? How can specific instructions along the lines of -'for the first 1,000-miles'; and 'use part throttle'; and 'don't exceed 4,000-rpm'; and 'vary engine speed as much as possible'; and don't haul heavy loads'; etc. be misinterpreted that way? These are very specific and require no form of 'interpretation' to understand what a proper break-in procedure entails.
I think a bigger problem is not enough owners make the effort to actually read their owners manual. Instead of following these clear directions, they rely on passed-down and often inaccurate and potentially harmful misinformation.
I'm not convinced on the 1k oil change. Oil changes are too get rid of spent oil/filters.
If your oil or filter is done at 1k, an oil change ain't gunna help
That's not the point. On a brand new engine, you WILL get metal particles, and these are mostly caught in the sump (if you have a magnetic sump plug) and in the oil filter. Replacing the filter and oil removes much of this debris, and greatly reduces the chance of them circulating in the oil and grinding surfaces away or blocking oil galleries.
drive with both hands on the wheel, u can give your presentation while parked.
😂😂😂😂
All of the car makers do a engine break in before it goes in the car.
Nope
Most Americans trade in after 5 years so this is over kill
man this is 2000 not the 70s c'mon
You are not supposed to run engine at same RPM for an extended period
Any Yet
You say you warm up you engine by idling at the same RPM for 10 minutes.- which is not a good thing - At All...🤡