5 Things You Should Never Do In A Brand New Car: 1. Don't Floor It (Full Throttle) 2. Don't Shift At Redline 3. Don't Use Cruise Control 4. Avoid Short Distance Travel 5. Avoid Towing
@@ariqzachry Thanks for your patience. I think what he meant to say with that is, "Do not drive at one constant engine or vehicle speed for a long time, either fast or slow."
1:30 - Points 1 and 2: Don't floor it, don't bring it to red line 5:50 - Point 3: Don't use cruise control 6:38 - Point 4: Avoid short distance travel 7:34 - Point 5: Avoid towing
Being the first person to fart in a new car is just one of the many joys. Although, ericthecarguy mentioned this on one of his videos, stating that he did handle a lot new cars when he was working at a dealership sooooo... That kinda ruins the fun.
Points one and two. Don't BABY IT. Run it somewhat aggressively once in a while when safety considerations allow for it. Any good engine builder will tell you the first 100 miles are critical for ring sealing and they seal best if you can vary load and speed during that initial period. Again, within reason. BTW, I enjoy your video's. Thanks for sharing.
Test drove the 19 gt I bought today. Was at 1 mile straight from trailer and salesman told me to floor it. I told him I wouldn't buy the car if I did that lol. Not going to ruin break in period on it then purchase it. To make it worse. He wanted me to floor it with less than 20 miles til E on it lmao.
The thoughts of test driving a new vehicle came to mind more than once while watching this video. I've never bought a new car with 0 miles. People do test drives all the time and don't buy them. Then someone comes along and buys it. You have NO idea what that car was put through in previous test drives. They are often driven ridiculously hard. I am always gentle when test driving a new car, because I believe it's the proper thing to do. I know that there is a cost element to it, but I really like what Acura does with the NSX engine break-in.
I test drove my car at a dealership next to a highway. Salesman said to take it on the highway and floor it. I did, but then I went to another dealership with no access to fast roads and bought my car there.
When I was in my early years I rebuilt a number of engines. I can tell from experience the longer you take to break in an engine the better it is from an engine. The idea is to seat in the piston rings, bushings, and bearings. Keep the RPM on the low side, when driving do not keep the RPM constant as like using the cruise control on the highway. Vary RPM, and do not exceed about 3500 RPM. A soft break in is the best. Drive it normally and do not floor it. There are always some imperfections between surfaces. I do the break in for over 3000 miles. Then I do my first oil change. I use synthetic oil after the engine is broken in. When I buy a new car, I take an easy drive for at least 40 minutes of driving minimum mostly city driving.
How is the truck? If you drove it normally and didn't drag race it, run it flat-out all the time, and race it from cold, you probably did better than you think.
Why buy new if you have to break it in, breath in the glue fumes, worry about the first scratch on the paint, and get tremendous depreciation in value. Buy a newish car instead that has been broken in already :)
But then you never know how it was treated by the previous owner. You don't know if it was ever broken in properly, regular oil changes, etc. Why take that risk on a car you care about?
My Wifes Sister bought a Dodge Avenger Rental car and she never had a problem with it,its the Pentastar V-6 that has some get up and go around 6 flat 0-60 a little under once broken in (I tried it lol) So far 90,000 trouble free miles upon the 12,000 that were on the car 102,000 total and I just serviced it at it runs ,drives fine no odd engine sounds etc..Personally I wouldn't buy a X Rental or Used or a new car with anything 1 mile or more.
I broke my Acura RSX-S in pretty hard and it was a great running car. It seemed to hit it's stride after about 100K. I sold it with 217K miles and it was an amazing engine the whole time. It did use about 1/2 quart of oil every oil change but other Hondas that I've owned did the same thing. I just broke in my GTI semi hard.... a few short full throttle bursts after a couple hundred miles. It's feeling really sassy now at 5K. :)
Should if I bought brand new cars and only kept them for a couple of years I would do the same s*** cuz every time I buy a used car that I want to keep it but it's always something wrong with it it may not show up in the beginning but boy it shows up I don't know how to change the oil but most of the time I get good vehicles cuz I look around hard and I pay a little money for them because the more expensive shyt is using garbage when you're buying used garbage that people think they want all that money back when they beat on it so that's how it goes oh yeah and Grandma cars😊 keep beating y o u r meet buddy
The speed variance has a purpose on break-in which you did not mention. As the rings slide against the wall of the cylinder, wall it takes off microscopic layers of metal off those walls. When this is done at a constant speed the rings will essentially go to the same place at the top of cycle. Now here is where it gets weird. A lip forms at the top of the stroke on that cylinder wall. if at some point the engines is revved to red line, the heat and the stroke causes the connecting rod to stretch every so slightly which could cause the rings to run into that lip, which could cause the rings to explode, which would cause you to have a multi thousand dollar rebuild. So after break-in, you should do a high RMP periodically after the engine is warmed up, so as to keep that lip from forming.
I recommend driving easy for the first 3000 miles or so, and doing an early oil change. You want want metal shavings out of your crankcase as soon as practical.
Its simple as he describes. I have broken in two new motorcycles and a majored Lycoming IO-360 the same way; HARD as per the instruction from the Lycoming overhaul facility. Start it and let it idle for no more than two minutes. Shut down and chech for oil leaks. Than taxi to the runway, do a quick mag check, then full throttle climbout to 7500’ leave it at full throttle for the flight. Do that for 25 hours and return for a oil change and compression test. I flew that engine for over 1000 hours and it never burned oil in the 25 hour oil changes. The two motorcycles I seated the rings per racing mechanics; take them to a track and after a lap or two warmup try to set lap faster lap times each successive laps. Then change oil. Had both bikes for more than 80000 miles each and neither burn any oil between 5000 mile oil changes. The worst thing to do to a new or overhauled engine is baby it. You will regret it if you do.
In my drive from dealership to my home I reached top speed of my car 😂😂 I reached 180 Kmph Now I really feeling bad for my engine At second gear I did 7000 RPM redline 😂
Your car will now last much longer. It takes full throttle load for the first 20 miles to wear rings in perfectly. Your engine will never smoke. People who break in lightly always have a smokey exhaust later.
This is why I will never buy a brand new vehicle that has been sitting on a dealer lot. Idiots out there test drive these things like they're in a action movie. I will test drive what they have and then order my own right from the factory exactly the way I want it and without some bad history already on it.
Ya know that'd be a really good policy for a dealership. Just have like 2-3 cars on the lot of each kind of car with different options/models strictly for test driving. Then say "no you can't have that one, you have to order your very own". I mean yeah there'd often be a customer going -_- or :( but think of all the space savings in the dealership's lot.
The weirdest thing is i work in a fire department and all new vehicules we get don't really get all the tips you said but don't seem to suffer adverse effect.
Not following those advice won't really break the cars, you probably just won't get the best performance the vehicle has to offer. Also, some vehicles like the Acura he mentioned are already broken-in when they hit the dealer.
Adding one more thing to the list: Don't change the engine oil before the first service interval. Modern cars are shipped with specially-formulated engine oil to break in the new engine, so changing this out early for regular oil is a bad idea.
i killed a rental car on the motorway doing the mandatory top speed test. The tow truck driver came and when i tried to get it up the flatbed it was making the most horrendous noise of death and made no power. It sounded like rods and bearings were trying to pummel their way out the block. He asked if it was mine and when i told him it was a rental he was like 'ahh no problem' and forced it to crawl up onto the back of the truck under its own power. dumped it at the rental place and got my replacement the next morning, lol.
Flooring is bad. But I've had a lot of success at 1/4 and 1/2 throttle - gear by gear low rpm to close to redline and back down (engine breaking). Use each gear and do 1/4 throttle. Most people won't be able to do this in all the gears though as you have to be in a pretty desolate spot. Those engines seem to always fire hard for me and make good compression especially at low rpms in the higher gears. And you always want to change the oil in the first 200-500 miles. Don't believe that factory bs of 15k per oil change on the first oil change. Every engine will have a good amount of metal sand that will be a lower micron than the oil filter.
@M Bacon Most oil filters only catch particles larger than 20microns maybe 30 microns if it's a toyota filter. Not sure I follow you. I'm inferring you are saying that leaving
@M Bacon Yeah overall I'm just really lost here. Have you dyno'd any of these engines broken in this way? I used to race bikes side by side with different break in methods. Could totally be user error but it always seemed like the sportbikes that broke in with these slow long throttle applications and regular engine breaking, pulled way harder and were routinely faster even when swapping bikes.
What he said about hard braking using the mechanical brakes might still apply, but the rest is specific to cylinders and pistons, neither of which are in an all-electric car. So, basically, no, you do not need to break in your Tesla.
I’ve heard differing opinions on whether to break-in or not. It never made sense to me to not have some break-in time before pushing a vehicle hard. This channel provides the best argument for break-in...especially with the tires and brakes.
Although I agree entirely with the video another tip(which my father used to do on the many engines he built for friends) is change the oil after no more then 300 initial miles even if the dealership/manufacturer says 1000 or 3000 or whatever. The first 300 miles creates the most metal particles. The acura engine lab that breaks in their engine in 150 miles runs continuous oil through the engine to constantly flush the new parts as the bed into one another.
I have run in a 24 new cars (evenly split between petrol and diesels) over the last 40 years which varied from Lada 1200s to a Peugeot 205 GTi and other small performance hatches. This video matches my own findings, especially the recommendation to use a light throttle and moderate revs for the first 200-300 miles whilst varying engine speed then gradually step on it a bit more as the miles progress. I would also advise against labouring the engine at all when running in as this can cause serious damage, possibly more than initially driving too hard.
I babied my 2013 Scion FR-S as the manual instructed. Car was stock, dealer maintained, regular oil changes, motor blown within 2 years. I broke my 2014 Camry V6 in hard. Car runs like a top, mileage is excellent and oil consumption is minimal between oil changes. Another one of those “it depends” kind of questions.
When I bought my new car 2 months ago I asked the dealership if there was any break in period I needed to know about and they told me no its not a performance car it's an Optima turbo. This kind of makes me think they may have been lying in going to check my manual after work now. Thanks for the vid man glad I ran across it.
It'd be nice if a manufacturer just took two or three brand new engines and did easy driving break-in, normal driving break-in, and aggressive driving break-in and then showed the wear side by side for a final and definitive answer to this. (No, this actually isn't that expensive to a car company. It's R&D cost.) I was always told that you should drive it like you would normally drive it because then it'll break-in to your driving habits instead of soft driving and then a complete change after 1,000-1,500 miles. Obviously you shouldn't be flooring it much during normal daily driving, but you probably won't be using only 50% throttle and keep it under 3,000 rpm either.
They have very expensive simulation software. While it's still a simulation and thus not completely accurate they still feel the need to waste a few pages in the manual on how to use the car during that period.
qwesx I guess so. Just seems like when arguing back and forth on which way is better goes on for decades it'd be easier just to have a definite answer. Could also be that wear in needs to be done differently with normal oil than with synthetic too. I'd just be very curious to see the wear side by side.
TheGreatMunky well one thing is obvious. more gas translates into more energy. more energy will definately increase the rate of wear. its just a matter of how much or even if it is worth noting at all.
As Jason mentioned, I think the problem ultimately comes down to your manufacturing tolerance. There's variability in how well assembled one car is compared to the next car on the line, and each car will have different break-in needs because a car has so many different components. Drivers will also be driving these cars under different environments, so the load on the car is different from buyer to buyer. So you have to account for these variability as well.
Your dealer has probably turned the car on and driven it from place to place on the lot without letting it warm up 30 times or so. When you buy it, you'll sit in it while idling at a single load/speed for half an hour while the salesman tells you every setting you can change in the menus. The last few guys who test drove it, already took it to redline to "see what she'll do." Motorcyclist magazine just did a test on this taking two new engines and breaking one in per spec and they other by beating the living hell out of it. When they opened them up afterward, they looked the same.
I work at a dealership, can confirm our professional drivers who pick up the cars from the rail yard definitely drive new cars hard, our techs drive them hard on test drives, our customers drive them hard on test drives, we move them less than 30 feet all the time just to arrange the lot. All of these rules get broken before you even consider the car you want.
You should never trust the engineers that designed and tested the engines. Much better to take the advice of some dude who likes to tell anecdotes on TH-cam, I know a guy who has a friend that....
I'll just say as a dealership service technician, most engine failures I have seen have not been related to the break in process, there's definitely some forgiveness to the rules. However, I have noticed that most early engine failures I've seen, as in under 5000 miles, have been on muscle and performance engines, including the case of a Charger with totally bald rear tires (at 4900 miles). Chrysler declined to warranty the engine.
I worked for a luxury car dealership as a valet, trust me, every car coming off that lot has been floored...multiple times...probably by multiple people, including the mechanics. Getting gas, performing the initial ride inspection, and occasionally dealer trades.
my father was a professional engine builder and i was lucky enough to learn a lot off him over the years. he said build it to the highest tolerances you can, have all machine work done the best shop available and make sure all bolt ons like flywheel and balancer are the best you can get. spend 200 ks with engine at normal running temperature and if you can't flog the f out of it by then, you should never bet let near an open engine again! We built a 450 hp Cleveland and i started flogging it within a week of the build. it never used oil, detonated, smoked or fouled plugs. it quite often got beaten on straight out of the shed and put away wet after a hard ride so to speak. it accidentally (yep) saw 7000 plus rpm too many times and when i pulled it down to check it out about 10000 ks after the build it still looked like new inside. i put it back together and i have flogged it for another 10000 ks and it still doesn't miss a beat. so moral of the story? build it right in the first place then beat down hard on it!!!!!!!
On a new engine I find it best to drive normally for 1000 miles then renew the oil+filter Then your good to go and believe me it makes a difference.10.000 miles is way too much on a new motor.
You know if we where talking about 1970's level of surface finish and materials I would have to agree with you 100%. The thing is the surface finish on engines friction surfaces is fantastic on a lot of brands. The use of moly rings and and rollerized rockers and low tensions rings is a game changer I think. Sure WOT on a new engine might not be the best thing but 1/2 to 3/4 WOT and up to low speeds from a rolling start like 10 mph up to 50mph and plenty of engine breaking(standard transmission) is claimed by some to be the best way to properly seat rings the first 150 miles. Dodge owners manuals from the 1970's all the way up through my Dad's 2001 said to do some hard pulls during break in the owners manual. I think the RPM limits though of staying below 4000 RPM makes perfect sense! Most recommendation in Owners Manuals are aimed at idiotic owners and lowest common denominator across all product lines few OEM owner's manuals have vehicle specific recommendations until you get to Super High Performance Cars or 1 Ton Trucks most of the rest are cut and past. Most OEM's do not even trust the customer to make intelligent decisions on oil viscosity based on usage and ambient temperature let alone tracking the car versus daily driver. You get one recommended oil viscosity and that is it usually 5W20, 5W30 for most OEM's in North America. Traditionally when most cars where rear wheel drive the biggest reason for keeping speeds low during break-in was due to ring and pinon temperatures not because of the piston rings. Lapping ring and pinion gears and matching them very closely is expensive and time consuming and add's complication to staging at the production level. When you rebuild old engines the general rule of thumb is to fire them up quickly after priming the system and to keep the RPM's above 2000 and not to rev because it slings the oil off the cam and the off the rings while increasing heat and loading especially at the wrist pin. Drop to low and the cams often took a hit. My Dad basically does what Acura does but he does not have a computer programmed dynamic chassis dyno to do it for him! You might want to take a look at Honda and Toyota factory fill used oil analysis UOA after the recommended oil change interval OCI. You will see some 10,000 mile UOA of factory fill during break-in in some Honda's that have show insanely low break-in wear with unremarkable factory oil with low really good particle counts. Same thing from Toyota. You can tell where the wear is taking place from by which metals are in the UOA. So it is not that I really disagree to much with you only that I think people are often living a few decades behind in terms of how gingerly they treat their car's during an extended break-in period that really has no basis in fact. Since UOA is so cheap and you can get a particle count with it as well there is no need to trust the OEM 100% blindly you can now do your own research as well. Int he case of GM I have seen UOA of most of their V8's and often even at 50,000 on the power train using great oils and modest OCI and light use the engine will have terrible wer number's compared to a modern Toyota or Honda I4 or V8 with cheap oil and max OCI. I think you have to look at production methods, materials used, surface finish of the parts when it leaves the factory, power density etc....
buckaroobonsi555 ...your long winded and provide zero evidence to back up your opinions. There is absolutely nothing special about a Honda or Toyota regarding engine manufacturing vs a VW or GM or Ford! Sorry. I've seen 1st hand the very careful & high tech engine build facilities of Ford / GM & Honda 1st hand due to my profession. I gave 1st hand experience. Not a $20 UOA of 1 car beat up vs another better cared for etc etc. 100% wrong internet jargon.
gm and toyota manufacture some of the most durable engines on the planet if broken in and maintained properly. if neither condition is met, both brands result in engines that drink oil.
After 45 years in the automotive service industry I have never seen any difference between cars that were babied or driven hard during the break in period. My first car was a 1970 Plymouth Duster. I asked the senior tech. in the dealership how I should break it in he said get it up to operating temperature then take it out and see how fast it will go! I have owned 10 new vehicles and have never had a engine failure or one that had a oil consumption problem.
Daniel Andrews it's the one that came flying back through the firewall after redlining his new car-while waiting for the tow truck he decided to make a video about the top 5 rules that he broke in the last 5 minutes
Daniel Andrews that's the piston that came flying back through the firewall after he redlined his new car-while waiting for the tow truck he decided to make a video about the top five mistakes that he made in the last five minutes
I toured the BMW manufacturing plant in Spartanburg,SC in 2000. At the time they were making the Z sports car. They dyno-tested EVERY freshly manufactured car running them up to max RPM and approx 140 MPH. The trick IS to not load them up for extended periods. The current thinking is Short full-throttle bursts are actually beneficial for "seating" the rings.
Well this back and forth has been very encouraging! I estimate I'll get my S3 mid-December and I'll report back immediately if it bursts into a fireball of angry pixies! In other news, I have known half a dozen Jeep owners who gave up after going bankrupt or insane twisting wires, and as many or more Audi owners who are very happy. Have a nice day!
His recommendations are based on manufacturer's recommendations. Manufacturers recommend things for the CONSUMER. In this case, far more has to be considered than how a consumer will understand deep stuff like mechanical combustion, metallurgy, machining, and the like. Manufactures have to consider how dangerous it is for a consumer to get into a new vehicle, or onto a new motorcycle and go hard-on full throttle with it after it's warmed up. They don't know the car. They don't know the motorcycle. They'll greatly increase the risk of a crash. This means LITIGATION and LAW SUITS. Has very little to do with mechanical parts wearing together to create a good seal. Lots of wear-in rules were generated many years ago when machining processes were less precise and less repeatable. Also metallurgy was less optimal. Fancy super-hard cylinder and piston ring coatings were still unknown. Mechanical processes have CHANGED because materials and machining processes have CHANGED. I've worn-in 5 new motorcycle engines with a specific, methodical proceedure that included full throttle power, heat cycles, oil changes, 3/4 throttle for first stage and red-line for second. Never had a lick of trouble and always ran reliably with great power. Manufacturers are going to tell people whatever protects them from litigation. Wouldn't you?
Agreed. The old method of low revs low load running in has gone. This can actually polish the cylinder liners which will lead to poor sealing and potentially high oil consumption. Your points are totally correct. Done sympathetically, a you say, no visits to the red line with a cold engine and you'll have an engine fit for several hundreds of thousands of miles.
Of course there's going to be "hot spots" at the microscopic level, where pointy bits of metal and hard coatings care chewing into other pointy bits of metal and hard coatings. Regardless of hot spots (as people call them), if you don't give an engine the beans, instead of removing microscopic particles which brings surfaces closer together and creates a better seal, you'll "work-harden" those microscopic bits of metal and forever eliminate your chance of creating an optimal seal. Work hardening happens when certain cycles of heat are gradually applied to metal. Same as heat-treating processes. You don't want those surfaces to get harder than they already are. You want them to intentionally wear off, creating a mate through friction, tearing, breaking. Oil is there to cool the cylinder. Water is there to remove heat from the metal. Consider how fresh brake pads on fresh brake rotors don't produce the optimal performance until those two surfaces have bedded together. Everything at the microscopic level is like tiny mountain ranges where the peaks are sliding across each other. Until they wear in, there is space for atmosphere to pass through. If those peaks don't grind off, but rather work-harden through heat cycles, they will never grind off. Ultimately what this means at the microscopic level, your loading between the rings and the cylinder walls is distributed among peaks in the metal, rather than a much more broad surface area with a good seal. Which scenario applies more to this "hot spots" talk mentioned in the video?
Manufacturers have gotten crazy over break in oil changes. I had an 08 X5 BMW and they made me drive that vehicle 14,000 miles on the break in oil. Needless to say the engine had many problems and we unloaded it before the 50,000 mile warranty was up!
Not sure if its the manufacter or the dealership giving out misinformation. I called a dealership today and he said the manufacturer would void my warranty if they changed the oil before the first 15000km/10,000mile service.
Funny, never did a repair on a car that was "floored" during a break in period. 25 years in dealerships with multiple different brands. I hereby debunk this myth. Engines are engineered and torture tested beyond what any new car driver could throw at them. If engines end up consuming oil or prematurely failing, it is a result of abuse, ie: mechanically over revving, lack of lube, poor maintenance, or bad design. Engineers will put a prospective engine in sub zero conditions on a dyno, start, and immediately rev the engine to redline for hours.
The first thing I did in my brand new 2006 Civic in 2005 was to take it on the freeway and hit it's max speed of 110mph, had to test it to see if I didn't get a lemon, it's been 15 years and the engine still hits 110mph, the engine still runs buttery smooth, and the only thing I've changed was the starter and that happened on it's 15th year.
Thank you for the clarification! City driving is a good way to break in a new car, regardless of its type, e.g. economy, sports, race, etc. i've been mocked repeatedly since decades ago just because i read and followed the recommendation of the user's manual.
When I was your age all young men had 100% of there bodies tattooed except for the lower bronson cleft. They all had hog rings for hitching to the barley cart except for the field foreman. AND I TURNED OUT FINE.😡😡😡
Conspiracy theory: It takes way less time to break in the engine but they boost it 10x to lower the odds that your car gets issues while you are still under warranty.
CORRECTION: Cruise control does not set your rpm's to a certain number, it can vary. Cruise control sets your acceleration to a certain speed, like 45 mph for example, not your rpm's. When you set your cruise control on your vehicle, like 45 mph, on a flat plain ITS TRUE, your rpm's DO stay the same and don't vary like you would want it to while breaking in your new vehicle. When you have to drive up a hill with cruise control on though, your rpm's go up to keep the same speed that you set, when you go down hill your cruise control will stay set but if you don't use your brakes you will (obviously) increase your speed and often times your rpm's will drop. My recommendation is that you avoid hills and cruise control all together while breaking in your vehicle as the up hill and down hill rides put strain on your vehicle. Depending on the angle of the hill, too much of an incline will put stress on the engine and too much of a decline will put strain on your braking system, think of it kinda like towing but just not as bad due to momentum.
engine braking is the most important part - period. do it. 2nd most important part is I'd recommend changing your oil early that first time. Maybe at 500 to 1000 miles. Yes it will have lots of life left in it, but also lots of medal particles.
@@raeee5947 mechanical eng. Really have no idea. I researched the hell out of it years ago when breaking in motorcycles and they all turned out really strong. But can't remember at this point.
lifeisgood070 my automatic car I just bought has 2 gears for engine braking and maximum engine braking but I’ve been scared to use it. But I kind of figure if 2/6 of my gears are specifically for engine braking that maybe it’s a good thing
Great video! Much appreciated. I just finished the 1600 km break-in for my new 2023 Crosstrek PHEV. I had the hardship of having to travel 400km at the end of every week (200km to and from). I never used cruise control and I tried never to stay at a constant speed for more than a few minutes at a time. Basically 90-115, drop back to 98 and then back up to 115...Back down again. Not the perfect break-in process, but best I could do! I was able to do a lot of start, stop, cruise a bit in the cities between long trips. I also put it in "Save Mode" before hitting highway speeds so that that the engine had some warm up time before the eventual save mode (electric + engine) highway parts of the trip. I never floored it, slammed on the brakes or forced the engine from 0. I just took her in today @ 1800 km for the first check-up, oil change, etc. Now on to driving normally with cruise control and such!
Used cars are certainly a lottery, but there are a lot of great videos out there about how to inspect them (ChrisFix and EricTheCarGuy both have a great series on this).
New cars are a lottery as well, lots of cars leave the factory as lemons. Personally, I wouldn't buy a new car ever, it's just throwing money out the window.
Personally, I would never buy a used car. It's just throwing time out the window checking the car and speaking with people and hope to god they hadn't fucked the car up. I also don't want to spend time looking for the right model and color, with a new car, I just go in the dealership and hand in the money, and get what car I want.
Valid points, but they can't be universally applied in every situation. I love BMW. My first two cars have been, BMW's. They have both been 2nd hand. Both are (after general maintenance and some minor repairs) fine. I don't think luxury car 1st buyers, will ruin their car with a bad break in. For many, its a significant purchase, for retirement or work, and as such, they don't want to destroy them. The benefit, as you may already know, of buying second hand is buying fantastic cars for a low price. I drive a facelifted e46 coupe. It makes old men who buy brand new mazda's extremely jealous.
I agree with you for the most part, and what differences we may have are negligible , but I've been in a engine dyno room where they take a new or a rebuilt engine and ultimately do full engine pulls to max rpm's. In fairness they do some break in runs, and gradually raise the rpm's, but with in 25 mins or so, the engine is run to max rps for max power, packaged up, and shipped to the customer. Good video BTW, and would be good advice for some one who had no ideal how to perform a break-in
@@Wazza722 Ill take a engine broken in on a dyno 1000 times over vs a brand new engine babied. Not trying to be rude, but you don't know what you're talkin about
@simd510 I don't pretend to know how all engine builders dyno test their new engines, but the few I've been in, they load the engine and make a few low RPM runs. Check timing, valve lash, fluid leaks, change the oil, and make a full RPM run under full load. The only way to calculate the horsepower is under load
The worst part of a new car brake in is that the dealers let them idle for a long time, frequently start them and move them 100 feet and on top of that they get test driven with full throttle acceleration then with max brake application. If you can find one fresh off the truck its best. To wear in rings spend the first 200 miles accelerating moderately then going to 0 throttle then accelerating again gradually getting more aggressive with the acceleration.
i break in my new car by taking it to the drag strip straight from the dealership and floor it every time i accelerate and slam on my breaks, also finds it good to shift to R, Racing mode at 30 miles per hour and then shift to P while its moving for that extra Performance.
Ha Ha, P for PERFORMANCE mode only kicks in at near walking speed!! (forward or in R racing mode) Or do you have manual transmission? Then certainly, from N and forward speed slam that puppy into R while stomping on the GO pedal.
John deer You're not going to have problems. I got a new car and raced my brother in it the first day. Car is completely fine, almost 25,000 miles now. 20,000 are highway miles.
I was an engine builder for thirty-five years and have never told a customer that there is a break in period. I did tell them to let them come up to temperature before putting the whip to them. Every engine came with a one year fifteen thousand mile warranty. Generally, if a motor is going to fail it will be in the first two thousand miles of operation. Dirty oil and overheating are what kills engines not running full throttle when they are new.
Jake McCoy is right but I am going to add this I don't mind doing work to a car that's reduced for a reason , I'm just a bit tight and never buy from a dealership. Especially bikes, some are almost 2x the price from a private sale.
Buhs I have the money, I just hate wasting it. The only way I'd buy new from a dealership if it was a new design and something that doesn't go up for sale too much used like a koenigsegg, though I don't have the spare finances to buy one of them at the moment. I find that buying from the 1st owner or 2nd is the way to go, especially If they're selling it to get the newest year
That's why I let someone else drive it for the first year or two and 10-15,000 miles. They knock about 20% off of the cars original value and I'm getting a car that's almost near as makes no difference to being brand new.
Tool0GT92 Yeah you gotta take it into your own hands to inspect it properly. I can't expect your average Joe to know what to look for, with my experience I can see what needs what. I see what you mean, I guess It really depends on how experienced you are with motors
You should also look under the engines if you want to see plastic. The new Mustang GT's and Shelbys have plastic oil pans and drain plugs. My 2017 Silverado with its Z71 "off road package" has a plastic engine shield.
@SolomonParker: If plastic is the state of the art, why don't we see any plastic submarines, tanks, or battleships? I have a couple Kubota tractors. One of the models, a BX-25 had plastic fenders, running boards, and hood the year before my model. Fatso's kept breaking the running boards when they stepped on them. So Kubota went back to metal; which mine has.
Thank you for this video! I knew the basics, but I really wanted a confirmation from an expert. The explanation for the various parts of break-in are really helpful. I’m picking up my new Ford Escape SEL tomorrow. It has less than 50km on it. I now need to put 1150 km on it before I tow my trailer in a month and a half. 😁
Yeah but you know what I am the driver in that same dealership and I put those 50 mi on your Ford and I beat the living s*** out of it for those first 50 miles I first started it up and I rev the engine for for 15 minutes straight and watch the smoke to come out the back didn't see none then I threw it and drive and and then Florida that s*** for the first 20 mi and then another 15 me 15 minutes rather of full throttle and neutral and then after that another 10 mi of hard driving and then another 20 minutes of neutral full be happy with your new truck buddy
Proper honing technology will break in for the 100 miles. After that it's just gradually wearing down to the inevitable rebuild. The reason they have longer recommended procedures is to ensure there was no installation errors. Which honestly you'll know within first 100 miles if not the first 10.
Like Acura claims, most of the breaking in of the piston rings will be done the first 100-150 miles. until 200 miles if will refine a bit, but after 300 miles, the rings are not going to change, because the sharp edges of the crosshedge will be smoothened out to the point that they do not polish the rings anymore. That is also why not to change the break-in oil too early. The small metal particles worn off the cylinder wall actually help breaking in the rings. The breaking in of the camshafts vary much more, depending on the layout chosen by the manufacturer. 50% throttle and under 3500 rpm for a petrol car are quote good measures for the first 300 miles, than gradually increase the load and engine speed. The cylinder wall has not changed a lot, but the rings are made from a harder material nowadays. this means that the crosshatch wears down as fast, but the rings break in less. Rings nowadays are made much more accurate to begin with, but especially the first 100 miles try to avoid running it stationary or at a super low load with constant rpm for a long time. This causes to wear down the crosshatch without proper breaking in of the rings. Overall, comon sense for at least the first 500 miles will do the job.
Yup they do for all GT-R spec. They don't go enough to fully break in your engine, but they don't go full track. there's a video you YT that basically takes it around a small track for less then 3 mins to ensure everything is is seated properly.
Actually, that's a good reason for a demo. Out of courtesy, for any hard driving I want to do for a test drive, I ask to drive a demo or used version, not wanting to risk messing up a new car engine.
Yep !. We have a young guy in our road that was always revving his engine hard while parked in the drive. Showing off to his mates etc. One day he was doing this, and then there was silence. Bottom end blew out all over the drive....
The reason for the 300 mile GTR break in is so you get to enjoy your GTR a few hours before you wrap it around a pole drifting it
If you think a gtr can drift then you're already doing it wrong
@@adamthomas1222 "Nissan GT-R breaks Guinness World Records title for the fastest drift at 304.96 Km/h"
@@Neilukuk lmao it wasnt a road legal, stock gtr. The thing had 1380hp
@@Neilukuk they are awd😂😂😂 be quiet
@@10thgenAj My comment is still true 👍
my car is 17 years old why am i watching this
RedesCat same. grand am gt '00
RedesCat my motor mount actually broke today, taking the power steering pulley with it lmao.
Look back in the days you followed these steps.
Mine is 46 years old >.
Because you were relieved that your car was broken in correctly so it is still surviving maybe? But the piston rings maybe need changing.
'not exceeding 4000rpm'
>4043 rpm
*triggered*
Lol
just 4000 my cars redline is 6000
Computer: intermittent failure
Computer: throw away engine
Lol this got me too
5 Things You Should Never Do In A Brand New Car:
1. Don't Floor It (Full Throttle)
2. Don't Shift At Redline
3. Don't Use Cruise Control
4. Avoid Short Distance Travel
5. Avoid Towing
@Lucas Van Hamburg Hi, thanks for commenting. Well, oftentimes, TH-cam comments get lost in the sea of anonymity ;-)
Why cruise control?
@@ariqzachry I don't remember. I'll watch the video again & come back with some details as soon as I can. Thanks for commenting :-)
@@ariqzachry Thanks for your patience. I think what he meant to say with that is, "Do not drive at one constant engine or vehicle speed for a long time, either fast or slow."
@@muhammadsaleemakhtar9533 That's interesting. Thanks for sharing the information :-)
big tip: you can floor FIATs when they are new, they are gonna break anyway. :)
FIAT - Fix It Again Tony
XD
Fix it again tomorrow :)
LOL!!!!
Fix It Again Today
6. Do not stare at your new car for extended periods of time. The paint has not had enough time to dry properly and your staring is not helping.
Also don't fill up fuel after midnight!
*and staring will cause the clear coat to disintegrate.
DarkMan2555 classic Hyunday problem 😂😂 Same with the late 90s accords
Lmao
Juan Cruz all 90’s Honda’s really. My civics (93 and 95) both have terrible fading and clear coat issues. Sucks.
1:30 - Points 1 and 2: Don't floor it, don't bring it to red line
5:50 - Point 3: Don't use cruise control
6:38 - Point 4: Avoid short distance travel
7:34 - Point 5: Avoid towing
cmfrtblynmb okay but thank you bc I really didn’t want to watch the whole video
Me either 😄👍
Thx fam
Thanks pal
MVP
The way he keeps pulling out car parts outta nowhere never cease to amaze me!
Manoj Sundi facts, my mans would casually pull a whole Tesla motor from a cup holder
Don't you have the Gta wheel selector?!?
As well his hand gesture when showing the piston up & down...
The new car smell is the best bit; so don't fart...
GTA Wise Guy the best thing you can do is be the first to fart in your new car. Marked territory.
GTA Wise Guy or open your windows and drive.
+afrosheenix Ew... you make me just need to change seats..im.a third owner of a civic
? Why are people obsessed with idiotic sayings..
Being the first person to fart in a new car is just one of the many joys. Although, ericthecarguy mentioned this on one of his videos, stating that he did handle a lot new cars when he was working at a dealership sooooo... That kinda ruins the fun.
When I drive a new car I always make sure the entire speedometer is working
you didnt mention not peeing on the seat. so i will keep doing it
Hold up...
To be continued
Haha this comments stands out of the others😂😂😂😂😂
Supposed to use your piss jug. Once full toss it out the window. Way of the road.
Funny, I think that is how society has warnings on everything now.
Gental warm ups and cool downs with any engine regardless if new or old. Short trips equates to severe usage. Good video!
Don't let your friend drive your car
1stJohn 4:7 Ferry Porsche once said: i'd lend my toothbrush to someone, rather than my car.
1stJohn 4:7 ESPECIALLY if they can't drive stick.
What!!!!? I'd rather borrow my girl than borrowing my toothbrush than borrowing my car.
i don't know anyone with a drivers licence who can't drive a manual. i guess that's an american thing.
Alan Ni i'm jealous of your car. i like porsches mid-engined cars. is it a 6 or a 4 cylinder?
Points one and two. Don't BABY IT. Run it somewhat aggressively once in a while when safety considerations allow for it. Any good engine builder will tell you the first 100 miles are critical for ring sealing and they seal best if you can vary load and speed during that initial period. Again, within reason. BTW, I enjoy your video's. Thanks for sharing.
That’s for performance engines without piston rings..
It probably goes without saying, but, don't crash it.
Sathrandur I thought you had to bang it in a wall first just to loosen it up a bit
You sure about that? I'm not seeing that in the manual anywhere
+dogger20011
You're right... It actually doesn't say not to crash it.
Sathrandur It's not mentioned in the manual, then it's a myth!
Sathrandur brand new cars have an anti crash system that lasts for the first 1,500 miles
The first thing the car salesman says....GO AHEAD AND FLOOR IT
Test drove the 19 gt I bought today. Was at 1 mile straight from trailer and salesman told me to floor it. I told him I wouldn't buy the car if I did that lol. Not going to ruin break in period on it then purchase it. To make it worse. He wanted me to floor it with less than 20 miles til E on it lmao.
Randy C. lol and the person before you who test drove it didn’t floor it?
The thoughts of test driving a new vehicle came to mind more than once while watching this video. I've never bought a new car with 0 miles. People do test drives all the time and don't buy them. Then someone comes along and buys it. You have NO idea what that car was put through in previous test drives. They are often driven ridiculously hard. I am always gentle when test driving a new car, because I believe it's the proper thing to do. I know that there is a cost element to it, but I really like what Acura does with the NSX engine break-in.
I test drove my car at a dealership next to a highway. Salesman said to take it on the highway and floor it. I did, but then I went to another dealership with no access to fast roads and bought my car there.
When you buy new it should come from the factory, no one should have driven it before.
Keep it under 4000 rpms
*computer monitor displays rpms above 4000*
Stress test probably
Lmao
pretty sure i broke all these rules just on my drive home from the dealer on my ram lol
Same here, no way I was going to spend 4 hrs taking surface streets home from the dealer.
lol i had a 600 km trip on my way back home and i went 160 as my average speed now i feel so bad...
My car is 28 years old tho
I broke all those rules on my test drive with the sales girl. 🤤
ahh that's ok it's just a shitty pickup truck
Why am i watching this when i know full well i can't afford a damn car.
Lol
BatBoyShark well now you can school people who actually have cars and make yourself sound like a mechanical guru magician 👍🏼👌🏼
preach my man
Kind of like how you watch porn knowing full well you'll be a virgin forever?
HAHAHA I spit out my coffee reading this
When I was in my early years I rebuilt a number of engines. I can tell from experience the longer you take to break in an engine the better it is from an engine. The idea is to seat in the piston rings, bushings, and bearings. Keep the RPM on the low side, when driving do not keep the RPM constant as like using the cruise control on the highway. Vary RPM, and do not exceed about 3500 RPM. A soft break in is the best. Drive it normally and do not floor it. There are always some imperfections between surfaces. I do the break in for over 3000 miles. Then I do my first oil change. I use synthetic oil after the engine is broken in. When I buy a new car, I take an easy drive for at least 40 minutes of driving minimum mostly city driving.
Thanks for sharing this
Sounds like you have an easy life.
My car is brand new it only has 178,000 miles, should I wait till it breaks in at 200,000 miles before I floor it?
Hey Hey rebuilt it now!!!! and follow the instructions😂
Floor it
you're right. it's a brand new second hand car.
Lmao a brand new hoopty
I would give it until about 210,000 miles just to play it safe. Then you can floor it as much as you want afterwards.
"except for rental cars" HAHAAHAHA
Rocket Surgery TRUE FACTS 😂😂😂🤣🤣😂
NEVER BUY AN ENTERPRISE CAR EVER
J Parker I made the mistake of buying one. It's missing a vent handle. I've had it for 8 years. Never had to repair anything.
I believe I've driven rental cars which had 'restrictor plates' installed on the intake. Geez!
Funniest comment I've read today thank you
As Jeremy Clarkson says...
"Go mental in a rental"
Done it. That's why I won't by a rental.
The laugh I needed today lol
No curb too steep, no ditch too deep...it's a rental!
I read that in his voice😂
dont be gentle, its a rental!
1000 km's into my new truck, I thought I'd search this up. Broke all the rules, great.
How is the truck? If you drove it normally and didn't drag race it, run it flat-out all the time, and race it from cold, you probably did better than you think.
*spongebob* Floor it??
*ms puff* No spongebob don't floor it!!
LOL
He can floor my Prius if he wants
Brian Griffin Wouldn't make a difference...
Brian Griffin a floored prius doesn't go any faster than a half throttled prius lol
accelerator pedal to the "floor"... you're trolling, right?
I uninstalled my airbags from my brand new car because if I crash it I will want to die
don't forget to cut the seat-belt !
Chris Mogzter 69 rip
facts
Why?
if you are going to drive in a wall plz take me with you too
You would be great friends with James May 😄
Chris fix it 😂
I need to see this
Nico van Os haha
+SirWheatThin
Captain Slowe.
So wait a second... The Acura NSX is a USED CAR sold as NEW!
best comment! I love your sense of humor!!!
It’s already a used POS anyway.
Nah, only the engine is used, the rest is new :P
I just made your 69th like!
Nope , only the engine is used. LOL
why am I watching this i know i cant afford a new car
You never will if you never think about it.
Jake Carson
New cars for every budget
Jake Carson could be a blessing in disguise - used cars are often even better value! Except Subaru... They retain like crazy
Why buy new if you have to break it in, breath in the glue fumes, worry about the first scratch on the paint, and get tremendous depreciation in value. Buy a newish car instead that has been broken in already :)
But then you never know how it was treated by the previous owner. You don't know if it was ever broken in properly, regular oil changes, etc. Why take that risk on a car you care about?
Except for rental cars... lol
don't be gentle, it's a rental
he meant it in a way that rental cars mostly have some miles put on them when you get them
Of course! Why wouldn't you push the fastest car in the world? 😂😂
Edgar González Casasola top gear?
My Wifes Sister bought a Dodge Avenger Rental car and she never had a problem with it,its the Pentastar V-6 that has some get up and go around 6 flat 0-60 a little under once broken in (I tried it lol) So far 90,000 trouble free miles upon the 12,000 that were on the car 102,000 total and I just serviced it at it runs ,drives fine no odd engine sounds etc..Personally I wouldn't buy a X Rental or Used or a new car with anything 1 mile or more.
I broke my Acura RSX-S in pretty hard and it was a great running car. It seemed to hit it's stride after about 100K. I sold it with 217K miles and it was an amazing engine the whole time. It did use about 1/2 quart of oil every oil change but other Hondas that I've owned did the same thing. I just broke in my GTI semi hard.... a few short full throttle bursts after a couple hundred miles. It's feeling really sassy now at 5K. :)
Should if I bought brand new cars and only kept them for a couple of years I would do the same s*** cuz every time I buy a used car that I want to keep it but it's always something wrong with it it may not show up in the beginning but boy it shows up I don't know how to change the oil but most of the time I get good vehicles cuz I look around hard and I pay a little money for them because the more expensive shyt is using garbage when you're buying used garbage that people think they want all that money back when they beat on it so that's how it goes oh yeah and Grandma cars😊 keep beating y o u r meet buddy
The speed variance has a purpose on break-in which you did not mention. As the rings slide against the wall of the cylinder, wall it takes off microscopic layers of metal off those walls. When this is done at a constant speed the rings will essentially go to the same place at the top of cycle. Now here is where it gets weird. A lip forms at the top of the stroke on that cylinder wall. if at some point the engines is revved to red line, the heat and the stroke causes the connecting rod to stretch every so slightly which could cause the rings to run into that lip, which could cause the rings to explode, which would cause you to have a multi thousand dollar rebuild. So after break-in, you should do a high RMP periodically after the engine is warmed up, so as to keep that lip from forming.
Wait, why do it makes the rings explode?
Factory tested before inserting into car?
jokes on you my redline is at 4000........
lol. Actually I think that means... the joke is on you. :P
Cummins?
Иіск Рагіllб Same here
Diesel?
HOW
I recommend driving easy for the first 3000 miles or so, and doing an early oil change. You want want metal shavings out of your crankcase as soon as practical.
it's completely unnecessary imo, but nothing wrong with doing it the way you like!
My Kawasaki motorcycle also says 4000 rpm... which is very hard on a 250 cc motorcycle with next to no power. I was glad when that was over.
Its simple as he describes. I have broken in two new motorcycles and a majored Lycoming IO-360 the same way; HARD as per the instruction from the Lycoming overhaul facility. Start it and let it idle for no more than two minutes. Shut down and chech for oil leaks. Than taxi to the runway, do a quick mag check, then full throttle climbout to 7500’ leave it at full throttle for the flight. Do that for 25 hours and return for a oil change and compression test. I flew that engine for over 1000 hours and it never burned oil in the 25 hour oil changes. The two motorcycles I seated the rings per racing mechanics; take them to a track and after a lap or two warmup try to set lap faster lap times each successive laps. Then change oil. Had both bikes for more than 80000 miles each and neither burn any oil between 5000 mile oil changes. The worst thing to do to a new or overhauled engine is baby it. You will regret it if you do.
In my drive from dealership to my home
I reached top speed of my car 😂😂
I reached 180 Kmph
Now I really feeling bad for my engine
At second gear I did 7000 RPM redline 😂
@Executive Order yeah lol 😂
All cars I've driven (which is like 3) kick the governor in at 110.
@@potterfanz6780 Laughs on Autobahn at 160 mph.
Your car will now last much longer. It takes full throttle load for the first 20 miles to wear rings in perfectly. Your engine will never smoke. People who break in lightly always have a smokey exhaust later.
@@skimtermite3610 what drugs are you smoking that leave a white smoke? It’s meth. It’s meth isn’t it.
This is why I will never buy a brand new vehicle that has been sitting on a dealer lot. Idiots out there test drive these things like they're in a action movie. I will test drive what they have and then order my own right from the factory exactly the way I want it and without some bad history already on it.
That's exactly what I do!
///AMG If you only keep your car for a few years, then go for it. When I buy a new vehicle, I want it to last beyond the warranty.
damn man thats a good point never thought of that
Ya know that'd be a really good policy for a dealership. Just have like 2-3 cars on the lot of each kind of car with different options/models strictly for test driving. Then say "no you can't have that one, you have to order your very own". I mean yeah there'd often be a customer going -_- or :( but think of all the space savings in the dealership's lot.
Dale Couture At the end of my test drive, the car I bought had 5 miles on it, two weeks ago :)
Now it has 1500 :(
The weirdest thing is i work in a fire department and all new vehicules we get don't really get all the tips you said but don't seem to suffer adverse effect.
Not following those advice won't really break the cars, you probably just won't get the best performance the vehicle has to offer. Also, some vehicles like the Acura he mentioned are already broken-in when they hit the dealer.
Adding one more thing to the list: Don't change the engine oil before the first service interval.
Modern cars are shipped with specially-formulated engine oil to break in the new engine, so changing this out early for regular oil is a bad idea.
Lol
Complete BS.
Most Cars today dont even have a Break in inspection and oil change
It's not the 1960s anymore!!! Not True.
Rental = Ride enhanced nicely to accelerate lawlessly
don't be gentle, it's a rental
MCHFacts have you ever used a rental car lol
lol
i killed a rental car on the motorway doing the mandatory top speed test.
The tow truck driver came and when i tried to get it up the flatbed it was making the most horrendous noise of death and made no power. It sounded like rods and bearings were trying to pummel their way out the block.
He asked if it was mine and when i told him it was a rental he was like 'ahh no problem' and forced it to crawl up onto the back of the truck under its own power. dumped it at the rental place and got my replacement the next morning, lol.
03056932R
Flooring is bad. But I've had a lot of success at 1/4 and 1/2 throttle - gear by gear low rpm to close to redline and back down (engine breaking). Use each gear and do 1/4 throttle. Most people won't be able to do this in all the gears though as you have to be in a pretty desolate spot.
Those engines seem to always fire hard for me and make good compression especially at low rpms in the higher gears.
And you always want to change the oil in the first 200-500 miles. Don't believe that factory bs of 15k per oil change on the first oil change. Every engine will have a good amount of metal sand that will be a lower micron than the oil filter.
@M Bacon Most oil filters only catch particles larger than 20microns maybe 30 microns if it's a toyota filter. Not sure I follow you. I'm inferring you are saying that leaving
@M Bacon Yeah overall I'm just really lost here. Have you dyno'd any of these engines broken in this way? I used to race bikes side by side with different break in methods. Could totally be user error but it always seemed like the sportbikes that broke in with these slow long throttle applications and regular engine breaking, pulled way harder and were routinely faster even when swapping bikes.
*Do I need to break in my Tesla*
Armando Ferreira yes most likely
I'm gonna guess it doesn't have an internal combustion engine, so no.
What he said about hard braking using the mechanical brakes might still apply, but the rest is specific to cylinders and pistons, neither of which are in an all-electric car. So, basically, no, you do not need to break in your Tesla.
In short, no, you don't.
your batteries might get a headache if you drive to fast
I’ve heard differing opinions on whether to break-in or not. It never made sense to me to not have some break-in time before pushing a vehicle hard. This channel provides the best argument for break-in...especially with the tires and brakes.
Although I agree entirely with the video another tip(which my father used to do on the many engines he built for friends) is change the oil after no more then 300 initial miles even if the dealership/manufacturer says 1000 or 3000 or whatever. The first 300 miles creates the most metal particles. The acura engine lab that breaks in their engine in 150 miles runs continuous oil through the engine to constantly flush the new parts as the bed into one another.
put magnets on the oil filter to catch it
I have run in a 24 new cars (evenly split between petrol and diesels) over the last 40 years which varied from Lada 1200s to a Peugeot 205 GTi and other small performance hatches. This video matches my own findings, especially the recommendation to use a light throttle and moderate revs for the first 200-300 miles whilst varying engine speed then gradually step on it a bit more as the miles progress. I would also advise against labouring the engine at all when running in as this can cause serious damage, possibly more than initially driving too hard.
I babied my 2013 Scion FR-S as the manual instructed. Car was stock, dealer maintained, regular oil changes, motor blown within 2 years. I broke my 2014 Camry V6 in hard. Car runs like a top, mileage is excellent and oil consumption is minimal between oil changes. Another one of those “it depends” kind of questions.
@The Heretic along with the Subaru rotting exhaust system syndrome!
Dealer maintained is the keyword
When I bought my new car 2 months ago I asked the dealership if there was any break in period I needed to know about and they told me no its not a performance car it's an Optima turbo. This kind of makes me think they may have been lying in going to check my manual after work now. Thanks for the vid man glad I ran across it.
It'd be nice if a manufacturer just took two or three brand new engines and did easy driving break-in, normal driving break-in, and aggressive driving break-in and then showed the wear side by side for a final and definitive answer to this. (No, this actually isn't that expensive to a car company. It's R&D cost.)
I was always told that you should drive it like you would normally drive it because then it'll break-in to your driving habits instead of soft driving and then a complete change after 1,000-1,500 miles. Obviously you shouldn't be flooring it much during normal daily driving, but you probably won't be using only 50% throttle and keep it under 3,000 rpm either.
They have very expensive simulation software. While it's still a simulation and thus not completely accurate they still feel the need to waste a few pages in the manual on how to use the car during that period.
qwesx
I guess so. Just seems like when arguing back and forth on which way is better goes on for decades it'd be easier just to have a definite answer.
Could also be that wear in needs to be done differently with normal oil than with synthetic too. I'd just be very curious to see the wear side by side.
TheGreatMunky well one thing is obvious. more gas translates into more energy. more energy will definately increase the rate of wear. its just a matter of how much or even if it is worth noting at all.
Alex V4
Agreed. A side-by-side would be nice. Engines are built daily, so this should've been done by a manufacturer by now.
As Jason mentioned, I think the problem ultimately comes down to your manufacturing tolerance. There's variability in how well assembled one car is compared to the next car on the line, and each car will have different break-in needs because a car has so many different components. Drivers will also be driving these cars under different environments, so the load on the car is different from buyer to buyer. So you have to account for these variability as well.
Your dealer has probably turned the car on and driven it from place to place on the lot without letting it warm up 30 times or so.
When you buy it, you'll sit in it while idling at a single load/speed for half an hour while the salesman tells you every setting you can change in the menus.
The last few guys who test drove it, already took it to redline to "see what she'll do."
Motorcyclist magazine just did a test on this taking two new engines and breaking one in per spec and they other by beating the living hell out of it. When they opened them up afterward, they looked the same.
I saw that video where they did a extreme hard break in vs soft.
I work at a dealership, can confirm our professional drivers who pick up the cars from the rail yard definitely drive new cars hard, our techs drive them hard on test drives, our customers drive them hard on test drives, we move them less than 30 feet all the time just to arrange the lot. All of these rules get broken before you even consider the car you want.
@@zeallust8542
This is exactly why dealerships will die off. I will be ordering my next car online where it will have been untouched by middlemen.
@@AbsurdImprobability Lol imagine being so naive.
You should never trust the engineers that designed and tested the engines. Much better to take the advice of some dude who likes to tell anecdotes on TH-cam, I know a guy who has a friend that....
i just bought a plane , and i floored it at takeoff ,
Doesn't TOGA means more than "usual" full power? It depends on the model though...
Hahaha this is my favorite reply!
You'll end up in the grass, because... full rudder.
These engines are built to tighter specs. so full power on take off is a must and OK. Much more expensive engines!
Make sure you floor right pedal
Glad I watched this, had no idea there was a “break-in period”.. 😔🤦🏻♂️
Rental car = Race car galore.... Days of thunder
that's what the "R" on the shifter is for "Race".
+Roscoe P hahahaha
oh god, I can just imagine someone believing that and trying to start a race in R XD
My all time favorite Tom Cruise movie! Rubbins racin!
Romaobb Mater from Cars is using the Racing Gear... because MIRRORS
I'll just say as a dealership service technician, most engine failures I have seen have not been related to the break in process, there's definitely some forgiveness to the rules. However, I have noticed that most early engine failures I've seen, as in under 5000 miles, have been on muscle and performance engines, including the case of a Charger with totally bald rear tires (at 4900 miles). Chrysler declined to warranty the engine.
the dodge dumming thought they said FLOOR it all the time.. not don't floorit..
lol. They should tell their salesman. How much do you think the stealership itself beats the cars xD
if you say so
A lot :(
I worked for a luxury car dealership as a valet, trust me, every car coming off that lot has been floored...multiple times...probably by multiple people, including the mechanics. Getting gas, performing the initial ride inspection, and occasionally dealer trades.
cliffjumpingisfun haha, the reason I bought it up is I also work at a stealership.
How many employees at dealerships were NYC taxi cab drivers?
my father was a professional engine builder and i was lucky enough to learn a lot off him over the years. he said build it to the highest tolerances you can, have all machine work done the best shop available and make sure all bolt ons like flywheel and balancer are the best you can get. spend 200 ks with engine at normal running temperature and if you can't flog the f out of it by then, you should never bet let near an open engine again! We built a 450 hp Cleveland and i started flogging it within a week of the build. it never used oil, detonated, smoked or fouled plugs. it quite often got beaten on straight out of the shed and put away wet after a hard ride so to speak. it accidentally (yep) saw 7000 plus rpm too many times and when i pulled it down to check it out about 10000 ks after the build it still looked like new inside. i put it back together and i have flogged it for another 10000 ks and it still doesn't miss a beat. so moral of the story? build it right in the first place then beat down hard on it!!!!!!!
On a new engine I find it best to drive normally for 1000 miles then renew the oil+filter Then your good to go and believe me it makes a difference.10.000 miles is way too much on a new motor.
agreed
Well said!!
I couldn't wait for 1,000 miles to do some hard accelerations on my grandpas new gt350, I mean it was almost there like 750 miles...worth it
You know if we where talking about 1970's level of surface finish and materials I would have to agree with you 100%. The thing is the surface finish on engines friction surfaces is fantastic on a lot of brands. The use of moly rings and and rollerized rockers and low tensions rings is a game changer I think. Sure WOT on a new engine might not be the best thing but 1/2 to 3/4 WOT and up to low speeds from a rolling start like 10 mph up to 50mph and plenty of engine breaking(standard transmission) is claimed by some to be the best way to properly seat rings the first 150 miles. Dodge owners manuals from the 1970's all the way up through my Dad's 2001 said to do some hard pulls during break in the owners manual. I think the RPM limits though of staying below 4000 RPM makes perfect sense! Most recommendation in Owners Manuals are aimed at idiotic owners and lowest common denominator across all product lines few OEM owner's manuals have vehicle specific recommendations until you get to Super High Performance Cars or 1 Ton Trucks most of the rest are cut and past. Most OEM's do not even trust the customer to make intelligent decisions on oil viscosity based on usage and ambient temperature let alone tracking the car versus daily driver. You get one recommended oil viscosity and that is it usually 5W20, 5W30 for most OEM's in North America.
Traditionally when most cars where rear wheel drive the biggest reason for keeping speeds low during break-in was due to ring and pinon temperatures not because of the piston rings. Lapping ring and pinion gears and matching them very closely is expensive and time consuming and add's complication to staging at the production level. When you rebuild old engines the general rule of thumb is to fire them up quickly after priming the system and to keep the RPM's above 2000 and not to rev because it slings the oil off the cam and the off the rings while increasing heat and loading especially at the wrist pin. Drop to low and the cams often took a hit.
My Dad basically does what Acura does but he does not have a computer programmed dynamic chassis dyno to do it for him!
You might want to take a look at Honda and Toyota factory fill used oil analysis UOA after the recommended oil change interval OCI. You will see some 10,000 mile UOA of factory fill during break-in in some Honda's that have show insanely low break-in wear with unremarkable factory oil with low really good particle counts. Same thing from Toyota. You can tell where the wear is taking place from by which metals are in the UOA.
So it is not that I really disagree to much with you only that I think people are often living a few decades behind in terms of how gingerly they treat their car's during an extended break-in period that really has no basis in fact. Since UOA is so cheap and you can get a particle count with it as well there is no need to trust the OEM 100% blindly you can now do your own research as well. Int he case of GM I have seen UOA of most of their V8's and often even at 50,000 on the power train using great oils and modest OCI and light use the engine will have terrible wer number's compared to a modern Toyota or Honda I4 or V8 with cheap oil and max OCI. I think you have to look at production methods, materials used, surface finish of the parts when it leaves the factory, power density etc....
buckaroobonsi555 ...your long winded and provide zero evidence to back up your opinions. There is absolutely nothing special about a Honda or Toyota regarding engine manufacturing vs a VW or GM or Ford! Sorry. I've seen 1st hand the very careful & high tech engine build facilities of Ford / GM & Honda 1st hand due to my profession. I gave 1st hand experience. Not a $20 UOA of 1 car beat up vs another better cared for etc etc. 100% wrong internet jargon.
gm and toyota manufacture some of the most durable engines on the planet if broken in and maintained properly. if neither condition is met, both brands result in engines that drink oil.
After 45 years in the automotive service industry I have never seen any difference between cars that were babied or driven hard during the break in period. My first car was a 1970 Plymouth Duster. I asked the senior tech. in the dealership how I should break it in he said get it up to operating temperature then take it out and see how fast it will go! I have owned 10 new vehicles and have never had a engine failure or one that had a oil consumption problem.
*After flooring it*
"Now me and the mad scientist gotta rip apart the block, and replace the PISTON RINGS you fried!"
well nevermind.. every car i buy already has 200k
*whips out piston from nowhere*
HERES MY MASSIVE PISTON
I read that in the Mr. Regular voice.
Daniel Andrews it's the one that came flying back through the firewall after redlining his new car-while waiting for the tow truck he decided to make a video about the top 5 rules that he broke in the last 5 minutes
Daniel Andrews that's the piston that came flying back through the firewall after he redlined his new car-while waiting for the tow truck he decided to make a video about the top five mistakes that he made in the last five minutes
Chances are it's a Subaru piston seeing that he's in one and the fact that they are know to go through motors the way they go through gas and oil.
I toured the BMW manufacturing plant in Spartanburg,SC in 2000. At the time they were making the Z sports car. They dyno-tested EVERY freshly manufactured car running them up to max RPM and approx 140 MPH. The trick IS to not load them up for extended periods. The current thinking is Short full-throttle bursts are actually beneficial for "seating" the rings.
My thinking, too. Maybe one or two WOT bursts once everything is warmed up properly, and then from an intermediate speed of say 40 MPH up to 60 MPH.
Can't wait to break in my new 2017 Audi S3! Thanks for ALL your tips!
+Jubei Kibugame very welcome, congrats on the new ride!
Well this back and forth has been very encouraging! I estimate I'll get my S3 mid-December and I'll report back immediately if it bursts into a fireball of angry pixies! In other news, I have known half a dozen Jeep owners who gave up after going bankrupt or insane twisting wires, and as many or more Audi owners who are very happy. Have a nice day!
His recommendations are based on manufacturer's recommendations. Manufacturers recommend things for the CONSUMER. In this case, far more has to be considered than how a consumer will understand deep stuff like mechanical combustion, metallurgy, machining, and the like. Manufactures have to consider how dangerous it is for a consumer to get into a new vehicle, or onto a new motorcycle and go hard-on full throttle with it after it's warmed up. They don't know the car. They don't know the motorcycle. They'll greatly increase the risk of a crash. This means LITIGATION and LAW SUITS. Has very little to do with mechanical parts wearing together to create a good seal.
Lots of wear-in rules were generated many years ago when machining processes were less precise and less repeatable. Also metallurgy was less optimal. Fancy super-hard cylinder and piston ring coatings were still unknown. Mechanical processes have CHANGED because materials and machining processes have CHANGED.
I've worn-in 5 new motorcycle engines with a specific, methodical proceedure that included full throttle power, heat cycles, oil changes, 3/4 throttle for first stage and red-line for second. Never had a lick of trouble and always ran reliably with great power.
Manufacturers are going to tell people whatever protects them from litigation. Wouldn't you?
Agreed. The old method of low revs low load running in has gone. This can actually polish the cylinder liners which will lead to poor sealing and potentially high oil consumption. Your points are totally correct. Done sympathetically, a you say, no visits to the red line with a cold engine and you'll have an engine fit for several hundreds of thousands of miles.
Of course there's going to be "hot spots" at the microscopic level, where pointy bits of metal and hard coatings care chewing into other pointy bits of metal and hard coatings. Regardless of hot spots (as people call them), if you don't give an engine the beans, instead of removing microscopic particles which brings surfaces closer together and creates a better seal, you'll "work-harden" those microscopic bits of metal and forever eliminate your chance of creating an optimal seal. Work hardening happens when certain cycles of heat are gradually applied to metal. Same as heat-treating processes. You don't want those surfaces to get harder than they already are. You want them to intentionally wear off, creating a mate through friction, tearing, breaking. Oil is there to cool the cylinder. Water is there to remove heat from the metal.
Consider how fresh brake pads on fresh brake rotors don't produce the optimal performance until those two surfaces have bedded together. Everything at the microscopic level is like tiny mountain ranges where the peaks are sliding across each other. Until they wear in, there is space for atmosphere to pass through. If those peaks don't grind off, but rather work-harden through heat cycles, they will never grind off.
Ultimately what this means at the microscopic level, your loading between the rings and the cylinder walls is distributed among peaks in the metal, rather than a much more broad surface area with a good seal. Which scenario applies more to this "hot spots" talk mentioned in the video?
bingo. I thought this guy would know better... guess not.
i have read a few different car models manuals now lol and none say anything about vehicle break-in driving :/
Why I'm watching this?
My car have like 28 years
Omar 15 it means u got to rebuild the engine now !!! and follow the same instructions smartphone boy😀🤓
Omar 15 lol mine too
John deer you don't know how many miles his car has and it could have a diesel engine
anthonyk 🙄u don't know either🍻
Mine has 20 Lol
Manufacturers have gotten crazy over break in oil changes. I had an 08 X5 BMW and they made me drive that vehicle 14,000 miles on the break in oil. Needless to say the engine had many problems and we unloaded it before the 50,000 mile warranty was up!
Not sure if its the manufacter or the dealership giving out misinformation.
I called a dealership today and he said the manufacturer would void my warranty if they changed the oil before the first 15000km/10,000mile service.
Casually whips out a piston.... This dude is who I aspire to be
Funny, never did a repair on a car that was "floored" during a break in period. 25 years in dealerships with multiple different brands. I hereby debunk this myth. Engines are engineered and torture tested beyond what any new car driver could throw at them. If engines end up consuming oil or prematurely failing, it is a result of abuse, ie: mechanically over revving, lack of lube, poor maintenance, or bad design. Engineers will put a prospective engine in sub zero conditions on a dyno, start, and immediately rev the engine to redline for hours.
exactly
What about diesel though? 4500 rpm is like redline.
Moral of the story, buy a new car and do a roadtrip.
The first thing I did in my brand new 2006 Civic in 2005 was to take it on the freeway and hit it's max speed of 110mph, had to test it to see if I didn't get a lemon, it's been 15 years and the engine still hits 110mph, the engine still runs buttery smooth, and the only thing I've changed was the starter and that happened on it's 15th year.
Thank you for the clarification! City driving is a good way to break in a new car, regardless of its type, e.g. economy, sports, race, etc. i've been mocked repeatedly since decades ago just because i read and followed the recommendation of the user's manual.
yeah, then there is the youtuber test drivers that floor it when test driving the car on the highway LOL
The info in the owners manuals are for pussies.
***** Power armor is for pussies
Tyler Loyd says the kid who most likely does not have a car.
***** lol
Nice to see a young man without any nasty TRAMP STAMPS or HOG RINGS.
he only looks young.
When I was your age all young men had 100% of there bodies tattooed except for the lower bronson cleft. They all had hog rings for hitching to the barley cart except for the field foreman. AND I TURNED OUT FINE.😡😡😡
Conspiracy theory: It takes way less time to break in the engine but they boost it 10x to lower the odds that your car gets issues while you are still under warranty.
Conspiracy theory: most manufacturers design their vehicles to fail soon after the warrenty expires
CORRECTION: Cruise control does not set your rpm's to a certain number, it can vary. Cruise control sets your acceleration to a certain speed, like 45 mph for example, not your rpm's.
When you set your cruise control on your vehicle, like 45 mph, on a flat plain ITS TRUE, your rpm's DO stay the same and don't vary like you would want it to while breaking in your new vehicle. When you have to drive up a hill with cruise control on though, your rpm's go up to keep the same speed that you set, when you go down hill your cruise control will stay set but if you don't use your brakes you will (obviously) increase your speed and often times your rpm's will drop.
My recommendation is that you avoid hills and cruise control all together while breaking in your vehicle as the up hill and down hill rides put strain on your vehicle. Depending on the angle of the hill, too much of an incline will put stress on the engine and too much of a decline will put strain on your braking system, think of it kinda like towing but just not as bad due to momentum.
engine braking is the most important part - period. do it.
2nd most important part is I'd recommend changing your oil early that first time. Maybe at 500 to 1000 miles. Yes it will have lots of life left in it, but also lots of medal particles.
lifeisgood070 can you explain why engine braking is good
@@raeee5947 mechanical eng. Really have no idea. I researched the hell out of it years ago when breaking in motorcycles and they all turned out really strong. But can't remember at this point.
lifeisgood070 my automatic car I just bought has 2 gears for engine braking and maximum engine braking but I’ve been scared to use it. But I kind of figure if 2/6 of my gears are specifically for engine braking that maybe it’s a good thing
Give that man a metal. He deserves it. Haha
lifeisgood070 metal particles go in the filter
Can you do Things You Should and Should Not Do in a Cold (In Winter) Car? So much misinformation.
Jeb Bush Come on, gimme a break
That's a humorous thumbnail, though.
why do you care Jab? you're in Florida
He probably spends a lot of time driving back and forth to the DC area though.
Weld the diff, drive sideways until the snow is gone in the spring.
never floor it when its COLD.. after its warmed up, drive it like you going to
Why can you please explain what happens?
Great video! Much appreciated. I just finished the 1600 km break-in for my new 2023 Crosstrek PHEV. I had the hardship of having to travel 400km at the end of every week (200km to and from). I never used cruise control and I tried never to stay at a constant speed for more than a few minutes at a time. Basically 90-115, drop back to 98 and then back up to 115...Back down again. Not the perfect break-in process, but best I could do! I was able to do a lot of start, stop, cruise a bit in the cities between long trips. I also put it in "Save Mode" before hitting highway speeds so that that the engine had some warm up time before the eventual save mode (electric + engine) highway parts of the trip. I never floored it, slammed on the brakes or forced the engine from 0.
I just took her in today @ 1800 km for the first check-up, oil change, etc. Now on to driving normally with cruise control and such!
What happens when you get a used car?! You're at the mercy of the original owner? That's like playing the Lottery.
Used cars are certainly a lottery, but there are a lot of great videos out there about how to inspect them (ChrisFix and EricTheCarGuy both have a great series on this).
New cars are a lottery as well, lots of cars leave the factory as lemons.
Personally, I wouldn't buy a new car ever, it's just throwing money out the window.
Personally, I would never buy a used car. It's just throwing time out the window checking the car and speaking with people and hope to god they hadn't fucked the car up. I also don't want to spend time looking for the right model and color, with a new car, I just go in the dealership and hand in the money, and get what car I want.
That's a high price to pay for having little patience.
I'd rather just pay for a good mechanic to go over a used car thoroughly. To each his own.
Valid points, but they can't be universally applied in every situation.
I love BMW. My first two cars have been, BMW's. They have both been 2nd hand. Both are (after general maintenance and some minor repairs) fine.
I don't think luxury car 1st buyers, will ruin their car with a bad break in. For many, its a significant purchase, for retirement or work, and as such, they don't want to destroy them.
The benefit, as you may already know, of buying second hand is buying fantastic cars for a low price.
I drive a facelifted e46 coupe. It makes old men who buy brand new mazda's extremely jealous.
I have no idea why I'm watching this I'll probably never own a brand new car.
I agree with you for the most part, and what differences we may have are negligible , but I've been in a engine dyno room where they take a new or a rebuilt engine and ultimately do full engine pulls to max rpm's. In fairness they do some break in runs, and gradually raise the rpm's, but with in 25 mins or so, the engine is run to max rps for max power, packaged up, and shipped to the customer.
Good video BTW, and would be good advice for some one who had no ideal how to perform a break-in
Well i wouldn’t buy one of those engines!
@@Wazza722 Ill take a engine broken in on a dyno 1000 times over vs a brand new engine babied. Not trying to be rude, but you don't know what you're talkin about
Does a dyno put load on an engine? Engine might be running but its not having to push the weight of a vehicle?
@simd510 I don't pretend to know how all engine builders dyno test their new engines, but the few I've been in, they load the engine and make a few low RPM runs. Check timing, valve lash, fluid leaks, change the oil, and make a full RPM run under full load. The only way to calculate the horsepower is under load
The worst part of a new car brake in is that the dealers let them idle for a long time, frequently start them and move them 100 feet and on top of that they get test driven with full throttle acceleration then with max brake application. If you can find one fresh off the truck its best. To wear in rings spend the first 200 miles accelerating moderately then going to 0 throttle then accelerating again gradually getting more aggressive with the acceleration.
I worked for dealers for 20 years, porters moved the car and thats it, We had no more of a reason to let a car idle then an owner.
i break in my new car by taking it to the drag strip straight from the dealership and floor it every time i accelerate and slam on my breaks, also finds it good to shift to R, Racing mode at 30 miles per hour and then shift to P while its moving for that extra Performance.
Ha Ha, P for PERFORMANCE mode only kicks in at near walking speed!! (forward or in R racing mode) Or do you have manual transmission? Then certainly, from N and forward speed slam that puppy into R while stomping on the GO pedal.
Just got a new vehicle yesterday and i've already broken like 3 of these rules 😂
Darkhalo314 hahah😂 it's gonna have problems😂
Darkhalo314 me too lol
John deer You're not going to have problems. I got a new car and raced my brother in it the first day. Car is completely fine, almost 25,000 miles now. 20,000 are highway miles.
Cvg
od
I think I broke all these rules in my hellcat
I was an engine builder for thirty-five years and have never told a customer that there is a break in period. I did tell them to let them come up to temperature before putting the whip to them. Every engine came with a one year fifteen thousand mile warranty. Generally, if a motor is going to fail it will be in the first two thousand miles of operation. Dirty oil and overheating are what kills engines not running full throttle when they are new.
I'd struggle buying a new car, just knowing the depreciation in value after its out of the showroom.
Jake McCoy is right but I am going to add this I don't mind doing work to a car that's reduced for a reason , I'm just a bit tight and never buy from a dealership. Especially bikes, some are almost 2x the price from a private sale.
Buhs I have the money, I just hate wasting it. The only way I'd buy new from a dealership if it was a new design and something that doesn't go up for sale too much used like a koenigsegg, though I don't have the spare finances to buy one of them at the moment. I find that buying from the 1st owner or 2nd is the way to go, especially If they're selling it to get the newest year
Tool0GT92 That's what I mean, but from a private seller
That's why I let someone else drive it for the first year or two and 10-15,000 miles. They knock about 20% off of the cars original value and I'm getting a car that's almost near as makes no difference to being brand new.
Tool0GT92 Yeah you gotta take it into your own hands to inspect it properly. I can't expect your average Joe to know what to look for, with my experience I can see what needs what. I see what you mean, I guess It really depends on how experienced you are with motors
Wait modern cars have engines? All I see under the hood is plastic
You should also look under the engines if you want to see plastic. The new Mustang GT's and Shelbys have plastic oil pans and drain plugs. My 2017 Silverado with its Z71 "off road package" has a plastic engine shield.
Stuff can be made of plastic, doesn't mean it isn't what it is.
@SolomonParker: If plastic is the state of the art, why don't we see any plastic submarines, tanks, or battleships? I have a couple Kubota tractors. One of the models, a BX-25 had plastic fenders, running boards, and hood the year before my model. Fatso's kept breaking the running boards when they stepped on them. So Kubota went back to metal; which mine has.
@@AStanton1966 Okay, put metal running boards on your engine. Or don't let fatsos step on your intake manifold. I don't know, deal with your problems.
You are probably having a problem with your eyes. Go see a doctor!
Thank you for this video! I knew the basics, but I really wanted a confirmation from an expert. The explanation for the various parts of break-in are really helpful.
I’m picking up my new Ford Escape SEL tomorrow. It has less than 50km on it. I now need to put 1150 km on it before I tow my trailer in a month and a half. 😁
Yeah but you know what I am the driver in that same dealership and I put those 50 mi on your Ford and I beat the living s*** out of it for those first 50 miles I first started it up and I rev the engine for for 15 minutes straight and watch the smoke to come out the back didn't see none then I threw it and drive and and then Florida that s*** for the first 20 mi and then another 15 me 15 minutes rather of full throttle and neutral and then after that another 10 mi of hard driving and then another 20 minutes of neutral full be happy with your new truck buddy
Proper honing technology will break in for the 100 miles. After that it's just gradually wearing down to the inevitable rebuild. The reason they have longer recommended procedures is to ensure there was no installation errors. Which honestly you'll know within first 100 miles if not the first 10.
Needed this reminder. I'm swapping in a new engine into my 15 year old jeep soon
I accidentally revved my new car's engine to 4001 rpm. Is it totalled?
ItsMeHammie yes
It did not worry the Honda guy..
Throw it out, buy a new one.
warranty/ insurance might cover it if you change your story a little bit
You just anticipated its endings, nothing more.
Bought my mustang with 6 miles on it. Fairly safe to say I know exactly how it’s been driven.
Redlined in every gear for 6 miles.
@@gone547 ROFLMAO
Like Acura claims, most of the breaking in of the piston rings will be done the first 100-150 miles. until 200 miles if will refine a bit, but after 300 miles, the rings are not going to change, because the sharp edges of the crosshedge will be smoothened out to the point that they do not polish the rings anymore. That is also why not to change the break-in oil too early. The small metal particles worn off the cylinder wall actually help breaking in the rings. The breaking in of the camshafts vary much more, depending on the layout chosen by the manufacturer. 50% throttle and under 3500 rpm for a petrol car are quote good measures for the first 300 miles, than gradually increase the load and engine speed. The cylinder wall has not changed a lot, but the rings are made from a harder material nowadays. this means that the crosshatch wears down as fast, but the rings break in less. Rings nowadays are made much more accurate to begin with, but especially the first 100 miles try to avoid running it stationary or at a super low load with constant rpm for a long time. This causes to wear down the crosshatch without proper breaking in of the rings. Overall, comon sense for at least the first 500 miles will do the job.
Don't they test the Nissan GT-R on the track after its built?
yes, at full throttle no less...
Yup they do for all GT-R spec. They don't go enough to fully break in your engine, but they don't go full track. there's a video you YT that basically takes it around a small track for less then 3 mins to ensure everything is is seated properly.
engine is first set on dyno and thats where its break-in
Who tests them? No company is gonna test all the new cars.
ady gombos Nissan tests their GT-R motors on dyno and slightly track run.
so dont buy the vehicle you test drive if its brand new and assuming you floor it during the test drive
Actually, that's a good reason for a demo. Out of courtesy, for any hard driving I want to do for a test drive, I ask to drive a demo or used version, not wanting to risk messing up a new car engine.
audi used to actually test their cars engines for an hour which included 15 minutes of full throttle for each built i believe
i got my car with only 9 miles on it
revving the engine without a load is bad too.
Yep !. We have a young guy in our road that was always revving his engine hard while parked in the drive. Showing off to his mates etc. One day he was doing this, and then there was silence.
Bottom end blew out all over the drive....
Will Conway Jr next time I’ll make sure to rev it while underload. My bad
Paul Taylor
Good result, nice when things work out as they should.
dad told me this over 60 years ago. true. trying to teach my kids is like , well you know
Wish I new this earlier… just got a 2022 gr86 and been flooring it. Wish me luck