Dude! I know it's not just me, but rather the whole community that watches your channel, but thank you for the humility and knowledge you bring to the table. A lot of people would simply toot their horn as being the expert, but you recognize that there are different approaches and give your recommendation based on experience and understanding of these machines. Awesome video, man. Keep it up!
This is the best break-in video I've ever seen. Straight up FACTS from a guy who has actually put an engine together. Unfortunately, the VAST majority of people will incorrectly think they're still "breaking in" after 100 miles.
Got a 2024 crosstrek sport and I’m at 600 miles on the dot. Trying to think of how I was driving up until 150 miles on the dash 😂😅 I think I’m good, only a 2 hour drive going 75 on the freeway from the lot to my house was the hardest I’ve drove it
My tuner told me I was pretty much broke in after they dyno tuned it. Engine breaking creates vacuum and makes the piston rings expand which properly mates them to the cylinder wall. Swapped my break in oil after 100 miles. Then changed it again before 500 miles. Working so far
I recently bought an Outback with the FA24 engine in it. There was 43 miles on the odometer when I picked it up. I was concerned about how people “test drove” it. I have over 800 miles on it as of now. I drove it moderately for the first few hundred miles and did a few boosted highway entrance ramp pulls. Horsepower and torque feel really solid right now. The manufacturer recommends 1000 mile break in and no more than 4K rpm’s. I’ve only gone over 4K three times for a short period of time. I was a bit nervous that I may have hurt it until I watched your video. I honestly feel very comfortable that I didn’t hurt it. Thanks for a very informative video!
I have a new BRZ. I was given the same information from my dealership. I chose to have my first oil change at 615 miles. I am now at about 750 miles; I definitely feel like the engine is breaking in good; the way it responds is much better than the first 50-100 miles.
YES. The video I've been waiting for! Lol many thanks for sharing your knowledge on the subject! * so now you talked about the seating of the piston rings , and you explained that the process of the rings getting seated happens rather fast..And that your method of getting them seated involved driving the car at various RPMs while inducing vaccum. You advised against letting the car run at idle speeds on the first start up, and that's where I'm lost... So ... After the fuel pump and oil pump are primed, how do you burp the coolant system without having the car sit at idle for an extended period of time? The last time I burped my coolant it took A WHILE. How did you get around this?
Just broke in my GR Corolla (now 1k miles) Keep in mind -you are also breaking in the whole drive train (& brakes et al ) For the most part my list of things to do is very close to yours & what I have done going on at least 15 new vehicles. This is my short & dirty list for first 600 ish miles (& oil change) - I don't idle the engine to warm up - I drive very slow out of my residential area - no short trips or long trips (35 to 80 miles) - let engine get DEAD cold before next driving event - MPT - don't drive during rush hour - for one so as not to idle or abuse the clutch - step up engine RPM when accelerating. (in 1st gear - 1800 hold 15 sec 2000 for 15 sec 2200 for 15 sec 2500 for 15 sec - let car engine brake to 1800 & repeat in all gears) To not be the A-hole on the road I do this part of the break in at 5 am!!! -the controversial part - but it's what I do. 50-75% Wide Open Throttle a few times each session (starting at 3k RPM) Allow vehicle engine brake to 1800 rpm and hold for a bit oil up the cylinders (helps seat the rings) & cool down a bit.
Goog ole boys here swear it takes 2,000 miles to break an engine in. Always thought that was rediculous, especially with modern oils. Good teaching moment. Thx
Heat cycles aren't really going to do much with Cars, bikes and some other applications probably. But you'll naturally do thrm over time from driving 🙏
Breaking in a car engine is essential to ensure its longevity and performance. During this period, usually the first 500-1,000 miles, engine components like pistons, cylinders, rings, and valves wear into each other smoothly. This process helps to create better seals, optimize friction, and prevent excessive wear later. Running the engine gently allows the metal surfaces to polish each other and properly distribute oil, which reduces the risk of overheating and damage. Tires also require a break-in period of around 200 miles because the outer layer contains residues from the manufacturing process, which can make them slippery. Driving cautiously allows the surface to wear down and achieve optimal traction. Additionally, tires need to settle into their final shape and develop even tread wear. Brakes, particularly the pads and rotors, need to be broken in (a process called bedding) to ensure the materials contact properly and to avoid glazing. Bedding-in brakes allows a thin layer of material to transfer between the pad and rotor, enhancing braking performance and minimizing noise or uneven wear. Overall, breaking in these components ensures peak performance and prevents premature damage or failure. There are teams of mechanical engineers who know the materials used in the engine and the temperatures and pressures the parts need to see before using the engine at higher revs. But everyone would rather take on the opinion of one guy on the internet and forget about the car longevity or its warranty… You go for it, I’ll stick with the recommendations.
Motor Oil Geek has better info regarding the oil and ring seating. But it is extremely refreshing to hear real, actual advice on TH-cam. If anyone followed this advice, they’d be set up for success.
You're like my personal virtual tutor tbh I was stil stuck with the knowledge that engine braking is 300-500 miles. Well you learn things every day thank you bro
Followed, probably for way to long, the break in procedure Subaru suggested for my 21 and I use literally 0 oil between changes and I'm at 25k now. I really feel like a good break in is key when I hear about others that use oil at 30-50k miles already.
A lot of motorcycle and watercraft builders also go by heat cycles. i used 8 heat cycles on my hi performance gp svho. ive had that motor 4 years and currently its 25 % more hp over showroom stock zero issues. changed the oil at 8 hours too
After the braking oil.......what type of oil u use,,,,,,,,,I have a 2007 sti limited.....iag second stage ,,,,,,,and iag said motul 5w 40,,,,,,the builder said 10w 40 Castrol regular oil,,,,,,?????love your channel lots of grate advice
Dont forget that aside from your 3 stone or ball hones grit, it’s allllll about the crosshatch angle specification to get the proper balance of oil retention and compression and heat dissipation. Machine shops can take it a step further with their machines by achieve a perfect “plateau” cut that accelerates break in
I think a lot of things said were good, but new parts arent smooth. The metal surfaces have high and low spots. The low load break-in process recommend by the OEM is to ensure these "rough" surfaces are polished down without heat and minimal wear on surfaces. Although oil is meant to hydrodynamically seperate metal parts, we still rely on protecttive additives like ZDDP and Moly. This wear is one of the reasons you don't mix and match engine parts during a rebuild, as the wear has already occurred between contact surfaces. High ZDDP content in break-in oils help coat the metal parts with sacrificial coatings faster than standard oils with controlled levels of ZDDP for say emmisions. They can also help chemically remove high spots in higher doses. I love your recommendation to replace oil at low miles. This helps remove assembly debris and break-in wear particles.
Hi. Can i please ask a question and get your opinion? I bought a brand new CF MOTO 450RS motorcycle and from new, gear changes were rough and it had vibrations. After the first service, the bike felt a lot worse, and engine was over heating sporadically. At 1400klm I realised when the dealer said that it was normal and I had taken the bike back 6 times, back to the dealer, I investigated the problem and found the dealer was filling the oil to below the empty level. When I toped up the oil, it took 750ml to get it to the full line. That's 1/3rd oil missing since new. In the cf moto user manual it states that the oil should only be filled to below the low line, but in doesn't say if this when the bike is on the side stand or upright on a service stand. Turns out they were filling it up on the service stand in the upright, and those instructions were for the bike being on the side stand. So dealer was filling my bike and some others short of oil. Engine now sounds rough compared to new bike and I am hearing a slight ratting sound. Can you please tell me, during this crucial run in period, what is the potential damage to the engine and gear box? I think during the crucial 1000klm run in, period not having enough oil to meet even the bottom line of the low😊 indicator mark would have caused damage, but dealer said no, it's o.k..
Here's what I picked up: 1. Conventional Oil to Prime engine - idle and check for leaks - don't forget to add coolant - Rev to 2k rpm - shutdown and drain oil. 2. Engine Break-in Oil - 0 to 50 miles. Stay out of boost (30% throttle or so)! Drain and change at 50 miles. 3. Engine Break-in Oil- 50-250 miles. Limited boost (30%-50% throttle or so)! Drain and change at 250 miles. 4. Regular Synthetic oil of your choice. Have fun full boost full throttle.
Almost spot on and what we've always done here in GT Performance in Ireland. Break in oil or what we call it here in Ireland "running in oil" basically mineral oil with very little additives which allows the rings to "bed in" to the cross hatched cylinder walls better. Running in oil is used for the 1st start up though until 50 miles, then changed with new filter and more running in oil up to 200-300 miles then changed again with new filter and running in oil from 800-1000 miles. Then competition filter and fully synthetic oil and let's party 😂
Just got my 19 sti back from the dealer who put in a new short block. They said they did the varying of rpm to seat the rings at first start up. The thing that has me puzzled is my boost was showing at 16.8 peak psi which means when they drove it after install they were hitting full boost. Has me a little concerned but i've been varying my rpms, engine breaking and not hitting boost myself even if it appears they did. Gonna start to incrementally add light boost like 4 psi and then change the oil at 1000kms and go back to normal driving.
Awesome video; with some phenomenal information. I wish I saw this right before I picked up my 2024 BRZ. I did do my oil at 615 miles. If I saw this video I would have done my first oil change a little sooner. I am retired and only drive 4-5k per year. Just to be safe I will be changing my oil every 6months. True that’s low mileage, but with the chance of fuel dilution and oxidation; better to be safe than sorry.
Really good info, thank you man. Definitely going to do this when I get my new brz, I don't believe the whole "1000 miles, keep it under 4k rpm" thing.
Use the a oil galley plugs to put pressurized oil through it while spinning it by hand. until you get oil coming out of every pushrod if you have a pushrod engine.
My new 2025 Chevy Trax owners manual shows a break in a period of 500 miles. What do you think the manufacturers are trying to accomplish by putting instructions for the first 500 miles to brake in.
I recently purchased a 2023 Winnebago Travato with the Ram Promaster chassis. It already had 2000 miles on it as they are driven from the factory to my dealership in California. I now wonder if all of that highway mileage was good for the engine. I immediately changed the oil and filter around 3000 miles with a good synthetic. I plan to keep it for a long time so maintenance with be done regularly.
Only thing that really bothered me is around the 3:00 mark when you explained the rings. ONLY the 3 piece ring at the bottom is the oil control rings. The top 2 are compression rings even though they are made/coated of different material (chrome, moly and cast typical). I did take all your advice on the priming of the engine etc. thanks.
Not all oil rings are 3 pieces. Just build a motor with a single ring and an expander spring inside for the oil ring. Also Napier second rings are an oil control ring. He correctly referred to it as a scraper ring.
Always great to hear that STI running. I will have to double check but I thought my Subaru manual said 2500 miles for break in. Guess it’s time to have fun with the turbo then. Great video.
Things I like about this channel… 1) The average 50 year old Joe Lunchbox can apply a lot of knowledge learned here to his own car, even if he leaves it bone stock. 2) The host is well spoken and doesn’t talk down to newbies and casual enthusiasts. 3) There’s no screaming and flailing around. Just good info presented calmly. 4) I really dig the old school, “Don’t do what I’m about to show you how to do” approach. That’s how Gen X learned half the crap we know. lol
This is in general even with IAG Engines? Because I'm like 700miles on my Stage 2 Tuff and Haven't introduced Boost yet. Should at least introduce it to maybe 10psi? What do you think?
Is the intensity of slowing down by engine braking a good indicator of how well the engine has been broken in at the beginning? The stronger the engine braking goes, the better the engine has been broken in at the beginning?
Not a big deal, but you've got blow-by backwards. It's leakage of combustion gasses past the rings into the crankcase, and becomes a problem when there's so much of it it cannot be handled by the PCV system. Oil consumption from ring wear or cylinder scoring happens when worn rings allow too thick a film of oil to remain on the cylinder wall, though If blow-by is extreme, it can cause pressurization of the crankcase and oil to be pushed past the worn rings on the intake stroke.. There is always a very thin film of oil left on the cylinder wall, even when a brand new engine is running, but this doesn't get burned because there is an extreme temperature gradient right at the cylinder wall that keeps this oil below its flash point. If the oil film is too thick, it can and does burn, though leaky valve seals are likely a more common path for oil to get into the combustion chamber. Finally, the main reason to use assembly lube instead of oil is that oil can be displaced during the rebuild process, leaving parts of the engine to become briefly oil starved during initial startup. Assembly lube is designed to be completely displaced by oil once the system is pressurized, leaving no residue behind, unlike the standard grease we used to use. If you have a way to pressurize the oil system before that initial startup, you wouldn't need to use assembly lube.
78 la 360, just primer my engine without cranking on it, able to turn oil pump thru distributor shaft, had 60 lbs pressure and my rockers were oiling and I have roller rockers no cam break in, thanks for the tips, will use your technique for seating my rings
Just got my motor back from outfront motorsports today! This video couldnt have been released at a better time. Thanks for all the great informative content! 👍
I changed the oil at 50 mile then 250 then 500 and drove the car like you and then changed it again to motul v300 at 856 miles then on the dyno it went
Usually the "break in" is the trial and errors phase. After that I'd leave the rest to the monitoring systems. Most dudes assume it takes thousands of miles🤦🏻♂️. Just as long as components are well lubricated and at optimal temps, range, specs, ext.... This was a great topic to bring up T. Im more of a run it-break it -fix-it and repeat type of dude to make room for improvements. -Smeedia in a nut shell😅 No offense T 😅✌🏼. + my tuner recommends stock-ish 15+ wrx's with bolt-ons, spark plugs to be gapped at .30-.33 But Subaru recommends .22 for maximum performance Seems very low Imo? Blu sounds INSANE!!
hey there, bed in happens in the first 50 miles. car comes from factory already 50 miles. all our engines are all stuffed? i presume the car has little to no load while moving between trucks trains and ships?
No! Rev high then release and repeat is the ONLY WAY to proper break-in an engine. If you baby it, there will not be enoug pressure/compression to seat it. Just don’t stay at high rpm, only because: - you will get alot of heat from frictions. - your oil is not full synthetic. Its mineral. So, accelerate, decelerate, repeat until the engine is about to overheat. Turn off ignition, let the engine cool down. I don’t know why people keep telling others to baby the car. Do you know how much punishment the engine get when you drive slow and lug it?
Im doing a first start up on a type ra block soon, so you think its a good idea to keep those sparkplugs out to prevent load on the rings when priming?
@smeedia hi ya,iv got a golf MK6 R & iv just had my engine re built with everything,Carrillo piston & rods supertech valvetrain cometic gasket ARP bolts polished/ported head & so much more,long story short my friend who’s built so many engines has now decided to leave me stranded right at the last bit & he knows the running in wasn’t something i wanted to do,we did the priming turning it over so all that is done,it’s now just the run in & he’s saying 500 miles (he’s always been extra safe) can you give me any tips? From what i THINK i no is..don’t keep at same speed change gears up & down regularly & do a lot of engine braking either by the paddles (it’s a DGS) with a 7 speed RS3 box,or just in S mode & let the gears drop from 5/4/3/2 ect then pick back up to speed & repeat,never staying at the same speed always up a little & then down a little,& keeping the RPM under 4K ? From what iv said is there anything you’d say to do or not do? BTW it’s on the 2.0L block well apparently it’s now like a 2.1 & the turbo of choice is a G25-660 i no you can’t put foot down for the turbo to come on but i really want to give this car the best start because iv put around 17K into this build & im from the UK BTW I’ll appreciate any tips you can give 🙏
What a timing coincidence. I did a thing yesterday and swapped my 21 wrx for a 22(even got the dealer to swap my parts back to stock so I dont have to do the work 🤣). Basically a straight swap over due to the insane used market. So in the break in period now. I miss the power I had in my 21, but im going to enjoy getting more power from the FA24 😁
@@Smeedia seems pretty good to me. Aside from the go aweful fake carbon they have. An sadly it seems the base model doesnt have triple meter so o cant see my pil temp. Seats feel a bit more agressive. An the car exterior does look much nicer in person. I wish the fenders were slightly more aggressive though. But so far been digging it. Drove it straight from the lot(SoCal) to vegas this weekend. Getting in those break in miles haha.
I bought a 2019 Nissan 370Z new at the end of 2018 and am now hitting about 57K on the mileage. I have used only the recommended Nissan ester oil and good Fram Ultra Synthetic filters. I run ⅓ oz of Redline SI-1 fuel system cleaner per gallon of gas as a maintenance dose to supplement the Shell Nitro V-Plus that I use. The oil changes were done at 300 mi, 900 mi, 3K mi and the rest have been done at 3K mile intervals. I drove the car very gently for the first 1500 miles, with revs below 3500, no constant highway speeds and no hard acceleration. The engine has always been warmed up until the coolant gets up to temp, very quickly, on a cold start before the engine is loaded. Revs are kept below 2500 rpm until the oil is up to 160⁰ F. Results: For the first 15K miles oil consumption was about 3oz at the end of the 3K mile OCI. There was a slight amount of soot on the inside of the exhaust tips. After 15K miles the dipstick showed no oil usage at the end of the OCI and the exhaust tips became even cleaner, with virtually no residue. The engine runs smoothy and quietly with no problems to date. I don't know whether the good behavior of my engine is due to my care, good luck in getting a good engine from the factory or both.
@@Smeedia I’ve had them decked just once and I measured the thickness of the new oem head gasket and it was .52 thickness and the pistons are 92.5mm. I’m just trying to make sure I do it right the first time.
It took almost 5000 miles to break-in my engine. How do I know? Because it got quiter, smoother, and my fuel mileage got better all after the 5000 mile mark. Before 5000 miles, there was a lot of whine and 2 mpg less. Were the rings broken in before that? Possibly, but there were other things that were not broken in evidently based on sound and fuel mileage.
Actually I watched a video about how the bearings do kinda smooth out or something and they’re designed that way and that’s why it’s good to take it kinda easy at first so that they bed in and get smooth and that ensures you do always have the oil layer
Bullshit, proper bearings and crankshafts are a mirror like finish that are designed to be exact from the word go with exact clearances for the oil to flow between them making a perfect "cushion" between them
No issues with your break in process, but would add oil analysis from the first oil change (after break-in) until iron, copper and ither metal items level off.
Tanner, got a question. I got a 2011 Subaru hatchback. I wanna replace the shortblock with an IAG one. While the engine is out. Anything else I should look to replace??
@@Smeedia Honestly, I am not looking for moon power. I just wanted to install reliability mods. AOS, intake, (based on some of your videos). Its your favorite cyber security youtube fan. I was thinking of doing the versus engineering clutch fork but while performing some research, not knowing alot about cars. Just asking questions to get to the goal. If I had a goal. I'd say the goal is 300 whp. Again, nothing crazy. Anything over that would be by accident. (It's a WRX) I have affectionately named her ruby, the subie. Sorry for the banter. Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it.
Could you make a version for non-mechanics? My dealer put in a new engine, so I just need to know what to do now. And I don't understand your terms; have no idea what "boost" means. The 500 miles info was super helpful, though - thanks!
Can you just take off oil filter and make sure oil is dripping from there when cranking - ensuring oil pump is primed and pushing oil up. I don't have anything to measure oil pressure with...
So if I'm reusing my old cams, do I still have to do the "camshaft break in"? Or can I skip that step and get started with my first 50 miles immediately?
Really enjoyed this,iv got a golf mk6 R and I’m now having my engine fully forged with Carrillo piston & rods fall valve train ect ect gotta admit it’s kinda scary for me as don’t wonna mess it up iv put over 15K into this
It depends on the type of piston rings you use and how well the machinist honed the cylinders. Molly rings and micro-crosshatched cylinders will seat in just a few miles applying load.
I’m building my first engine it’s a 5.3 lc9 I’m planning on breaking it in on a engine dyno not a chassis dyno anyone have a tip on doing that and what questions I can ask the dyno guy?
I got two hours to talk about engine breaking in I am all about learning how not to break my engine again I am on my 3rd EJ and 3RD turbo set up currently at 197 miles on the new engine thx for the info
Just got a new IAG stage 2 tuff they recommend 1k with a break in tune, is a break tune critical or can I just keep the revs down and stay out of boost and all that on a normal tune.
It really depends if you're putting the engine into a car with a standard ECU or putting the engine into a car with an aftermarket programmable ECU, if standard then yeah you'll be fine taking it easy, if aftermarket then you're best getting it mapped for break in as the aftermarket ECUs usually come with a map pre programmed that's really rich to prevent idiots just plugging in and blowing up their engine but for breaking in an engine they are bad because they run so rich they wash the cylinder walls with fuel which is bad for break in.
I work at a engine plant for one of the big 3 they only us oil on the piston bores to help the operators with inserting the pistons. The whole engine is assembled dry no oil.
17:03 YES! That's how you have to be on TH-cam. I got a Naturally Aspirated EJ251.. Is the procedure still the same/about the same? About 100-250 miles and done?
Car from dealer has already had a start up and engine oil replacement. They did the basic break in step. Just follow manufacturer recommendation aka don’t rev it all the way out.
Thank you for all your awesome videos. This one is awesome on the subject. Great job. One thing, what weight of oil would be best to break in with? Since the tolerances are tight.
Bro I got a brand new type ra short block and brand new heads, am thinking of changing the pistons and rods. Will this be reliable for a 450-500whp build?
@@Smeedia bet, bought my 2019 Sti brand new with 8 miles on it and it didn’t last much with only 420 @ the wheels and 442 torque. That’s I want a reliable 450-500 until I save up and built the old short block for bigger power
@@MYWRXSTI I also have a 2019 snd just had s new short block installed at 60,000kms. I love the car but it's making me nervous how long this new block will last
Breaking in a motor properly should be spun on a machine with the heads off with fresh oil before it’s in the car. Which is replicating the spark plug removal process although I do this as well anyways to prime it. Once it’s in the car and the oil pump is primed. Start it and then you do the idle procedure or with wheels off the ground put it in first and keep it steady rpm. Changing the oil after the first cycle. Then put fresh oil in it bring up to temp. Time to race, break in happens the first hour during that initial rpm variation procedure off the ground in your driveway or shop. After that just drive it like you are going to be driving it. Mines a race car. It gets tuned then raced. And my set up hasn’t changed much so the tune is usually pretty darn close. Then document your results. And then it becomes kind of ritualistic. But within all engine builders we can all agree that rpm and heat in the beginning is what seats the rings.
@@AzraelGG_ What? Who said that? So, you telling me that all those break in instructions in the manuals are wrong and the random guy in internet knows better ?
This is the first time I've heard anyone recommend using engine braking. I've always been of a mind that the car's brakes are cheaper and easier to replace so it's better to use them to stop the car, not the engine. I assume the recommendation only applies to the initial break-in period?
What type and brand of conventional oil do you use for the cam break in? And I have Brian cower cams on my STI in my new built motor. I haven’t started it yet. But I noticed when I turn the crank by hand (the correct way of course) I hear the left head clucking and then after a few more turns the right head. That normal? Thanks
Hay @Smeedia, have you ever heard of oem subaru fa20 engines being pre-broken in prior to sale? Had my shortblock recently replaced. When I asked the shop for break-in suggestions. They stated it was broken in before sale. Any advice?
Idk how to break in a new engine but i do know how to break a new engine
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Top comment
@@man.and.machines what an honor
Fucking comedy gold
I feel you on that one🤣
Dude! I know it's not just me, but rather the whole community that watches your channel, but thank you for the humility and knowledge you bring to the table. A lot of people would simply toot their horn as being the expert, but you recognize that there are different approaches and give your recommendation based on experience and understanding of these machines.
Awesome video, man. Keep it up!
Anytime and I'll always share what I can with everyone to try help where possible 💪🔥
This is the best break-in video I've ever seen. Straight up FACTS from a guy who has actually put an engine together. Unfortunately, the VAST majority of people will incorrectly think they're still "breaking in" after 100 miles.
All down hill for an engine after its been "broken in" might as well start enjoying it as soon as it's ready 💪
Just did this one on a new EJ255. Changed the oil a couple extra times and it looks good and she rips! I’m enjoying giving it a workout.💪🏼
I agree this is one of the best informative videos on TH-cam without listening to hours of classroom lectures.
Got a 2024 crosstrek sport and I’m at 600 miles on the dot. Trying to think of how I was driving up until 150 miles on the dash 😂😅 I think I’m good, only a 2 hour drive going 75 on the freeway from the lot to my house was the hardest I’ve drove it
My tuner told me I was pretty much broke in after they dyno tuned it. Engine breaking creates vacuum and makes the piston rings expand which properly mates them to the cylinder wall. Swapped my break in oil after 100 miles. Then changed it again before 500 miles. Working so far
Soild break in it sounds like 💪
Dam! that motor makes enuff vacuum to bend steel? Dam!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I recently bought an Outback with the FA24 engine in it. There was 43 miles on the odometer when I picked it up. I was concerned about how people “test drove” it. I have over 800 miles on it as of now. I drove it moderately for the first few hundred miles and did a few boosted highway entrance ramp pulls. Horsepower and torque feel really solid right now. The manufacturer recommends 1000 mile break in and no more than 4K rpm’s. I’ve only gone over 4K three times for a short period of time. I was a bit nervous that I may have hurt it until I watched your video. I honestly feel very comfortable that I didn’t hurt it. Thanks for a very informative video!
u wont hurt it lol
I have a new BRZ. I was given the same information from my dealership. I chose to have my first oil change at 615 miles. I am now at about 750 miles; I definitely feel like the engine is breaking in good; the way it responds is much better than the first 50-100 miles.
If you hurt it you would know it.
@@MrGsxr10001 It’s good, I made that comment over a year ago. She runs great!
@@MrGsxr10001 Yep, especially since it’s been over a year. Car has been trouble-free.
YES. The video I've been waiting for! Lol many thanks for sharing your knowledge on the subject!
* so now you talked about the seating of the piston rings , and you explained that the process of the rings getting seated happens rather fast..And that your method of getting them seated involved driving the car at various RPMs while inducing vaccum. You advised against letting the car run at idle speeds on the first start up, and that's where I'm lost... So ... After the fuel pump and oil pump are primed, how do you burp the coolant system without having the car sit at idle for an extended period of time? The last time I burped my coolant it took A WHILE. How did you get around this?
That's totally fine, what I don't suggest is just leaving it to idle for long periods of time 🙏 Burping and all that jazz is good 🙏
Just broke in my GR Corolla (now 1k miles)
Keep in mind -you are also breaking in the whole drive train (& brakes et al )
For the most part my list of things to do is very close to yours & what I have done going on at least 15 new vehicles.
This is my short & dirty list for first 600 ish miles (& oil change)
- I don't idle the engine to warm up - I drive very slow out of my residential area
- no short trips or long trips (35 to 80 miles)
- let engine get DEAD cold before next driving event - MPT
- don't drive during rush hour - for one so as not to idle or abuse the clutch
- step up engine RPM when accelerating. (in 1st gear - 1800 hold 15 sec 2000 for 15 sec 2200 for 15 sec 2500 for 15 sec - let car engine brake to 1800 & repeat in all gears) To not be the A-hole on the road I do this part of the break in at 5 am!!!
-the controversial part - but it's what I do. 50-75% Wide Open Throttle a few times each session (starting at 3k RPM) Allow vehicle engine brake to 1800 rpm and hold for a bit oil up the cylinders (helps seat the rings) & cool down a bit.
Always so informative and well organized! This channel is definitely top five Subaru channels imo! Keep grinding gang!
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Goog ole boys here swear it takes 2,000 miles to break an engine in. Always thought that was rediculous, especially with modern oils. Good teaching moment. Thx
Anytime my friend 🥳🔥
Heat cycles are also very important too! Need to get it up to operating temp🔥
Heat cycles aren't really going to do much with Cars, bikes and some other applications probably. But you'll naturally do thrm over time from driving 🙏
Breaking in a car engine is essential to ensure its longevity and performance. During this period, usually the first 500-1,000 miles, engine components like pistons, cylinders, rings, and valves wear into each other smoothly. This process helps to create better seals, optimize friction, and prevent excessive wear later. Running the engine gently allows the metal surfaces to polish each other and properly distribute oil, which reduces the risk of overheating and damage.
Tires also require a break-in period of around 200 miles because the outer layer contains residues from the manufacturing process, which can make them slippery. Driving cautiously allows the surface to wear down and achieve optimal traction. Additionally, tires need to settle into their final shape and develop even tread wear.
Brakes, particularly the pads and rotors, need to be broken in (a process called bedding) to ensure the materials contact properly and to avoid glazing. Bedding-in brakes allows a thin layer of material to transfer between the pad and rotor, enhancing braking performance and minimizing noise or uneven wear.
Overall, breaking in these components ensures peak performance and prevents premature damage or failure.
There are teams of mechanical engineers who know the materials used in the engine and the temperatures and pressures the parts need to see before using the engine at higher revs. But everyone would rather take on the opinion of one guy on the internet and forget about the car longevity or its warranty… You go for it, I’ll stick with the recommendations.
Rings dont seal gently. Thats why there are so many engines using oil.
I'm am literally putting my engine the car right now, typing this with greasy dirt hands 😂😂😂😂
Lol how's the install going!?
Like a glove, just finishing the bell housing bolts right now
Motor Oil Geek has better info regarding the oil and ring seating.
But it is extremely refreshing to hear real, actual advice on TH-cam. If anyone followed this advice, they’d be set up for success.
You're like my personal virtual tutor tbh I was stil stuck with the knowledge that engine braking is 300-500 miles. Well you learn things every day thank you bro
Engine break-in.
Engine braking is something completely different, used to slow down a vehicle.
you have the best sounding Subaru I’ve ever heard. Nice build and good video
Thank you for all the video's. Waiting on my IAG 900 to come in. Spun a bearing in my stock STI
Ooooffff hopefully won't be too long before the new engine comes 🤞
Followed, probably for way to long, the break in procedure Subaru suggested for my 21 and I use literally 0 oil between changes and I'm at 25k now. I really feel like a good break in is key when I hear about others that use oil at 30-50k miles already.
A lot of motorcycle and watercraft builders also go by heat cycles. i used 8 heat cycles on my hi performance gp svho. ive had that motor 4 years and currently its 25 % more hp over showroom stock zero issues. changed the oil at 8 hours too
Sounds consistent with what Andre was saying. Good stuff man 👌🏾
Thank you 🙏🙏
After the braking oil.......what type of oil u use,,,,,,,,,I have a 2007 sti limited.....iag second stage ,,,,,,,and iag said motul 5w 40,,,,,,the builder said 10w 40 Castrol regular oil,,,,,,?????love your channel lots of grate advice
I use 5W40 in mine 🙏
My longblock will be here any day perfect timing love your videos bro helped me with a lot of stuff pulling motor tear downs etc
Eyyyyy, perfect timing! 🥰
Dont forget that aside from your 3 stone or ball hones grit, it’s allllll about the crosshatch angle specification to get the proper balance of oil retention and compression and heat dissipation. Machine shops can take it a step further with their machines by achieve a perfect “plateau” cut that accelerates break in
Exactly what I needed, my engine is almost done getting bored/honed so I should be assembling soon! Thanks for the tips
Anytime 🥳🔥
Happy building!
I think a lot of things said were good, but new parts arent smooth. The metal surfaces have high and low spots. The low load break-in process recommend by the OEM is to ensure these "rough" surfaces are polished down without heat and minimal wear on surfaces. Although oil is meant to hydrodynamically seperate metal parts, we still rely on protecttive additives like ZDDP and Moly. This wear is one of the reasons you don't mix and match engine parts during a rebuild, as the wear has already occurred between contact surfaces.
High ZDDP content in break-in oils help coat the metal parts with sacrificial coatings faster than standard oils with controlled levels of ZDDP for say emmisions. They can also help chemically remove high spots in higher doses.
I love your recommendation to replace oil at low miles. This helps remove assembly debris and break-in wear particles.
Great timing, I was lapping valves for my engine going in hopefully this sunday
Whoop! When's first start?!
@@Smeedia if all goes well sunday or monday
Just finished my EJ build. Cosworth break-in procedure on the dyno ~1hr, maintenance, then tune and power runs right after. Simples
💪💪💪
what timing, just got my 06 STi rebuilt and here Tanner is to save the day 😎
🥳🥳🥳🥳
Hi. Can i please ask a question and get your opinion? I bought a brand new CF MOTO 450RS motorcycle and from new, gear changes were rough and it had vibrations. After the first service, the bike felt a lot worse, and engine was over heating sporadically. At 1400klm I realised when the dealer said that it was normal and I had taken the bike back 6 times, back to the dealer, I investigated the problem and found the dealer was filling the oil to below the empty level. When I toped up the oil, it took 750ml to get it to the full line. That's 1/3rd oil missing since new.
In the cf moto user manual it states that the oil should only be filled to below the low line, but in doesn't say if this when the bike is on the side stand or upright on a service stand. Turns out they were filling it up on the service stand in the upright, and those instructions were for the bike being on the side stand. So dealer was filling my bike and some others short of oil.
Engine now sounds rough compared to new bike and I am hearing a slight ratting sound. Can you please tell me, during this crucial run in period, what is the potential damage to the engine and gear box? I think during the crucial 1000klm run in, period not having enough oil to meet even the bottom line of the low😊 indicator mark would have caused damage, but dealer said no, it's o.k..
After watching other break in videos, this one is definitely the best.
Here's what I picked up:
1. Conventional Oil to Prime engine - idle and check for leaks - don't forget to add coolant - Rev to 2k rpm - shutdown and drain oil.
2. Engine Break-in Oil - 0 to 50 miles. Stay out of boost (30% throttle or so)! Drain and change at 50 miles.
3. Engine Break-in Oil- 50-250 miles. Limited boost (30%-50% throttle or so)! Drain and change at 250 miles.
4. Regular Synthetic oil of your choice. Have fun full boost full throttle.
Almost spot on and what we've always done here in GT Performance in Ireland. Break in oil or what we call it here in Ireland "running in oil" basically mineral oil with very little additives which allows the rings to "bed in" to the cross hatched cylinder walls better. Running in oil is used for the 1st start up though until 50 miles, then changed with new filter and more running in oil up to 200-300 miles then changed again with new filter and running in oil from 800-1000 miles. Then competition filter and fully synthetic oil and let's party 😂
this is overkill. lol. i just changed my oil at first 500 miles straight into full syn.
Just got my 19 sti back from the dealer who put in a new short block. They said they did the varying of rpm to seat the rings at first start up. The thing that has me puzzled is my boost was showing at 16.8 peak psi which means when they drove it after install they were hitting full boost. Has me a little concerned but i've been varying my rpms, engine breaking and not hitting boost myself even if it appears they did. Gonna start to incrementally add light boost like 4 psi and then change the oil at 1000kms and go back to normal driving.
Awesome video; with some phenomenal information. I wish I saw this right before I picked up my 2024 BRZ. I did do my oil at 615 miles. If I saw this video I would have done my first oil change a little sooner. I am retired and only drive 4-5k per year. Just to be safe I will be changing my oil every 6months. True that’s low mileage, but with the chance of fuel dilution and oxidation; better to be safe than sorry.
Really good info, thank you man. Definitely going to do this when I get my new brz, I don't believe the whole "1000 miles, keep it under 4k rpm" thing.
It's all a masquerade
Use the a oil galley plugs to put pressurized oil through it while spinning it by hand. until you get oil coming out of every pushrod if you have a pushrod engine.
My new 2025 Chevy Trax owners manual shows a break in a period of 500 miles. What do you think the manufacturers are trying to accomplish by putting instructions for the first 500 miles to brake in.
I recently purchased a 2023 Winnebago Travato with the Ram Promaster chassis. It already had 2000 miles on it as they are driven from the factory to my dealership in California. I now wonder if all of that highway mileage was good for the engine. I immediately changed the oil and filter around 3000 miles with a good synthetic. I plan to keep it for a long time so maintenance with be done regularly.
Only thing that really bothered me is around the 3:00 mark when you explained the rings. ONLY the 3 piece ring at the bottom is the oil control rings. The top 2 are compression rings even though they are made/coated of different material (chrome, moly and cast typical).
I did take all your advice on the priming of the engine etc. thanks.
Not all oil rings are 3 pieces. Just build a motor with a single ring and an expander spring inside for the oil ring. Also Napier second rings are an oil control ring. He correctly referred to it as a scraper ring.
Always great to hear that STI running. I will have to double check but I thought my Subaru manual said 2500 miles for break in. Guess it’s time to have fun with the turbo then. Great video.
I belive subaru suggests 1K miles under 4000 rpm
yeah got my sti last august subaru said under 4k rpm for a thousand miles. after that all bets are off send that sucker to the moon
Things I like about this channel…
1) The average 50 year old Joe Lunchbox can apply a lot of knowledge learned here to his own car, even if he leaves it bone stock.
2) The host is well spoken and doesn’t talk down to newbies and casual enthusiasts.
3) There’s no screaming and flailing around. Just good info presented calmly.
4) I really dig the old school, “Don’t do what I’m about to show you how to do” approach. That’s how Gen X learned half the crap we know. lol
I've definitely got some videos where I'm all over thr place. But for these types of videos always try to just go through them 🔥🤝
This is in general even with IAG Engines? Because I'm like 700miles on my Stage 2 Tuff and Haven't introduced Boost yet. Should at least introduce it to maybe 10psi? What do you think?
All engines, but every manufacturer will tell you a diffent processing it were me I'd be goinf full send at 700 miles
Is the intensity of slowing down by engine braking a good indicator of how well the engine has been broken in at the beginning? The stronger the engine braking goes, the better the engine has been broken in at the beginning?
If it's a manual do it in every gear
Not a big deal, but you've got blow-by backwards. It's leakage of combustion gasses past the rings into the crankcase, and becomes a problem when there's so much of it it cannot be handled by the PCV system. Oil consumption from ring wear or cylinder scoring happens when worn rings allow too thick a film of oil to remain on the cylinder wall, though If blow-by is extreme, it can cause pressurization of the crankcase and oil to be pushed past the worn rings on the intake stroke.. There is always a very thin film of oil left on the cylinder wall, even when a brand new engine is running, but this doesn't get burned because there is an extreme temperature gradient right at the cylinder wall that keeps this oil below its flash point. If the oil film is too thick, it can and does burn, though leaky valve seals are likely a more common path for oil to get into the combustion chamber. Finally, the main reason to use assembly lube instead of oil is that oil can be displaced during the rebuild process, leaving parts of the engine to become briefly oil starved during initial startup. Assembly lube is designed to be completely displaced by oil once the system is pressurized, leaving no residue behind, unlike the standard grease we used to use. If you have a way to pressurize the oil system before that initial startup, you wouldn't need to use assembly lube.
78 la 360, just primer my engine without cranking on it, able to turn oil pump thru distributor shaft, had 60 lbs pressure and my rockers were oiling and I have roller rockers no cam break in, thanks for the tips, will use your technique for seating my rings
Outfront or IAG for a new engine?
Outfront
@@Smeedia Why outfront just wondering
Personal preference both are good.
But I'd rather have 1 person assemble an engine for me rather than have it go through an assembly line
any tips on a Honda D17A2 High compression build (NA)
IAG has the 1000 mile engine break in. Very difficult to follow. 1000 miles with no highway mileage. Tough to do in town.
Alot of around town miles 👀
Just got my motor back from outfront motorsports today! This video couldnt have been released at a better time. Thanks for all the great informative content! 👍
Eyyyy what engine set up did you go with?!
@@Smeedia Ej20 with forged internals, one size up over stock on the pistons and they rebuilt my heads too. Didnt get it closed deck tho
My iAG engine listed 800 to 1000 prior to a tune. My break in tune limited RPMs to 3800
Every builder will have some diffrent procedures 🤝
With my IAG block my tuner is making me do 1500 on waste gate until I can get some power :/ but hey he knows better than me. Also has me at 3K rpm’s
I changed the oil at 50 mile then 250 then 500 and drove the car like you and then changed it again to motul v300 at 856 miles then on the dyno it went
Make some good power? 👀
Usually the "break in" is the trial and errors phase. After that I'd leave the rest to the monitoring systems. Most dudes assume it takes thousands of miles🤦🏻♂️. Just as long as components are well lubricated and at optimal temps, range, specs, ext.... This was a great topic to bring up T. Im more of a run it-break it -fix-it and repeat type of dude to make room for improvements.
-Smeedia in a nut shell😅
No offense T 😅✌🏼. + my tuner recommends stock-ish 15+ wrx's with bolt-ons, spark plugs to be gapped at .30-.33
But Subaru recommends .22 for maximum performance Seems very low Imo? Blu sounds INSANE!!
Everyone's got diffret views on this but for the most part I'd say follow whatever feels comfortable 😅
Subaru is also giving specs for stock cars lol
I was wondering about this. I’m still a long way from finished but it had been on my mind. Not as bad as I thought
Great video I’m one of those hard break in guys it’s worked out fine for my Sti. Knock on wood 😂
As long as they running good, that's all that matters 💪
A great video brother. Stay safe out there.
Thank you my man 🙏
hey there, bed in happens in the first 50 miles. car comes from factory already 50 miles. all our engines are all stuffed? i presume the car has little to no load while moving between trucks trains and ships?
Awesome vid, thank you so much. I'm about to get my newly rebuilt VQ35DE for my 2004 pathfinder and want to break it in properly.
so how do you do this with an engine that doesnt run proper because it needs a tune done still?
Hi from Aus. The only readily available break-in oil is Penrite 15W-40. Is this ok to use?
You should be able to get motul breakin oil at autopro
No! Rev high then release and repeat is the ONLY WAY to proper break-in an engine. If you baby it, there will not be enoug pressure/compression to seat it. Just don’t stay at high rpm, only because:
- you will get alot of heat from frictions.
- your oil is not full synthetic. Its mineral.
So, accelerate, decelerate, repeat until the engine is about to overheat. Turn off ignition, let the engine cool down.
I don’t know why people keep telling others to baby the car. Do you know how much punishment the engine get when you drive slow and lug it?
Im doing a first start up on a type ra block soon, so you think its a good idea to keep those sparkplugs out to prevent load on the rings when priming?
Definitely 👍🏾
Yessir, keep em out 🙏
@smeedia hi ya,iv got a golf MK6 R & iv just had my engine re built with everything,Carrillo piston & rods supertech valvetrain cometic gasket ARP bolts polished/ported head & so much more,long story short my friend who’s built so many engines has now decided to leave me stranded right at the last bit & he knows the running in wasn’t something i wanted to do,we did the priming turning it over so all that is done,it’s now just the run in & he’s saying 500 miles (he’s always been extra safe) can you give me any tips? From what i THINK i no is..don’t keep at same speed change gears up & down regularly & do a lot of engine braking either by the paddles (it’s a DGS) with a 7 speed RS3 box,or just in S mode & let the gears drop from 5/4/3/2 ect then pick back up to speed & repeat,never staying at the same speed always up a little & then down a little,& keeping the RPM under 4K ? From what iv said is there anything you’d say to do or not do? BTW it’s on the 2.0L block well apparently it’s now like a 2.1 & the turbo of choice is a G25-660 i no you can’t put foot down for the turbo to come on but i really want to give this car the best start because iv put around 17K into this build & im from the UK BTW
I’ll appreciate any tips you can give 🙏
What a timing coincidence. I did a thing yesterday and swapped my 21 wrx for a 22(even got the dealer to swap my parts back to stock so I dont have to do the work 🤣). Basically a straight swap over due to the insane used market. So in the break in period now. I miss the power I had in my 21, but im going to enjoy getting more power from the FA24 😁
How you liking the interior and what not on the 22?!
@@Smeedia seems pretty good to me. Aside from the go aweful fake carbon they have. An sadly it seems the base model doesnt have triple meter so o cant see my pil temp. Seats feel a bit more agressive. An the car exterior does look much nicer in person. I wish the fenders were slightly more aggressive though. But so far been digging it. Drove it straight from the lot(SoCal) to vegas this weekend. Getting in those break in miles haha.
What if I have roller lifters?
I bought a 2019 Nissan 370Z new at the end of 2018 and am now hitting about 57K on the mileage. I have used only the recommended Nissan ester oil and good Fram Ultra Synthetic filters. I run ⅓ oz of Redline SI-1 fuel system cleaner per gallon of gas as a maintenance dose to supplement the Shell Nitro V-Plus that I use. The oil changes were done at 300 mi, 900 mi, 3K mi and the rest have been done at 3K mile intervals. I drove the car very gently for the first 1500 miles, with revs below 3500, no constant highway speeds and no hard acceleration. The engine has always been warmed up until the coolant gets up to temp, very quickly, on a cold start before the engine is loaded. Revs are kept below 2500 rpm until the oil is up to 160⁰ F.
Results:
For the first 15K miles oil consumption was about 3oz at the end of the 3K mile OCI. There was a slight amount of soot on the inside of the exhaust tips. After 15K miles the dipstick showed no oil usage at the end of the OCI and the exhaust tips became even cleaner, with virtually no residue. The engine runs smoothy and quietly with no problems to date. I don't know whether the good behavior of my engine is due to my care, good luck in getting a good engine from the factory or both.
What about breaking in a race motor? First fire up will be on a chassis dyno. Cams have already been broken in previously.
I have a question and was wondering if you could answer it. Should i use the Cometic Head Gasket EJ20GN MLS 93MM .051 instead of the OEM head gaskets?
How many times have your heads been decked? Just make sure your getting the right thickness but that is a good gasket to use
@@Smeedia I’ve had them decked just once and I measured the thickness of the new oem head gasket and it was .52 thickness and the pistons are 92.5mm. I’m just trying to make sure I do it right the first time.
You should be fine to use them then 🙏
@@Smeedia awesome thank you! :)
Do I need a tune for changing out my factory boost controller to the grimmspeed boost controller solenoid?
Yes you do
Finshing my Ej255 rebuild, thanks for all the videos and info🫡
It took almost 5000 miles to break-in my engine. How do I know? Because it got quiter, smoother, and my fuel mileage got better all after the 5000 mile mark. Before 5000 miles, there was a lot of whine and 2 mpg less. Were the rings broken in before that? Possibly, but there were other things that were not broken in evidently based on sound and fuel mileage.
Actually I watched a video about how the bearings do kinda smooth out or something and they’re designed that way and that’s why it’s good to take it kinda easy at first so that they bed in and get smooth and that ensures you do always have the oil layer
Bullshit, proper bearings and crankshafts are a mirror like finish that are designed to be exact from the word go with exact clearances for the oil to flow between them making a perfect "cushion" between them
No issues with your break in process, but would add oil analysis from the first oil change (after break-in) until iron, copper and ither metal items level off.
Which oil would you recommend for the first stuff ?
Motul 10W40 mineral oil 🤝
@@Smeedia not for break in but just to run the heat cycle
Tanner, got a question. I got a 2011 Subaru hatchback. I wanna replace the shortblock with an IAG one. While the engine is out. Anything else I should look to replace??
What are the goals for the car?
@@Smeedia Honestly, I am not looking for moon power. I just wanted to install reliability mods. AOS, intake, (based on some of your videos). Its your favorite cyber security youtube fan. I was thinking of doing the versus engineering clutch fork but while performing some research, not knowing alot about cars. Just asking questions to get to the goal. If I had a goal. I'd say the goal is 300 whp. Again, nothing crazy. Anything over that would be by accident. (It's a WRX) I have affectionately named her ruby, the subie. Sorry for the banter. Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it.
Personally I'd suggest just snagging a Type RA short block, cheaper and better for your goals 🤝
The info is kind of there, but the reasoning isn't really accurate and some points aren't right
Could you make a version for non-mechanics? My dealer put in a new engine, so I just need to know what to do now. And I don't understand your terms; have no idea what "boost" means. The 500 miles info was super helpful, though - thanks!
Boost refers to air being produced by the turbo. You may not even have to worry about Boost, depends if your car is turbo’d or not.
Hey @smeedia im building my fa20 and i was wondering if the motul 10w-40 mineral break-in oil is the one i should use during the break-in procedure
Can you just take off oil filter and make sure oil is dripping from there when cranking - ensuring oil pump is primed and pushing oil up. I don't have anything to measure oil pressure with...
No. If you take off oil filter and crank it there is no oil going to the bearings. Even a few seconds causes significant wear
What if you know your car needs a tune prior to driving? Are you forced to break it in on a dyno?
So if I'm reusing my old cams, do I still have to do the "camshaft break in"? Or can I skip that step and get started with my first 50 miles immediately?
Skip that, it's only for brand new cams 🙏
@@Smeedia Thanks 👌
Really enjoyed this,iv got a golf mk6 R and I’m now having my engine fully forged with Carrillo piston & rods fall valve train ect ect gotta admit it’s kinda scary for me as don’t wonna mess it up iv put over 15K into this
It depends on the type of piston rings you use and how well the machinist honed the cylinders.
Molly rings and micro-crosshatched cylinders will seat in just a few miles applying load.
I’m building my first engine it’s a 5.3 lc9 I’m planning on breaking it in on a engine dyno not a chassis dyno anyone have a tip on doing that and what questions I can ask the dyno guy?
An old engine machinist once told me that engines don’t wear in , they wear out!
Would you recommend the same process for a 4x4 3.0 litre Diesel engine?
No, full load on and off as much as possible for the 1st couple hundred miles at least. Will never burn oil from piston rings if done that way
I got two hours to talk about engine breaking in I am all about learning how not to break my engine again I am on my 3rd EJ and 3RD turbo set up currently at 197 miles on the new engine thx for the info
What happened with the first two 😳
Just got a new IAG stage 2 tuff they recommend 1k with a break in tune, is a break tune critical or can I just keep the revs down and stay out of boost and all that on a normal tune.
I would suggest a tune, doesn't have to be a break in tune. But I'd make sure that everything is proper with it 🤝
It really depends if you're putting the engine into a car with a standard ECU or putting the engine into a car with an aftermarket programmable ECU, if standard then yeah you'll be fine taking it easy, if aftermarket then you're best getting it mapped for break in as the aftermarket ECUs usually come with a map pre programmed that's really rich to prevent idiots just plugging in and blowing up their engine but for breaking in an engine they are bad because they run so rich they wash the cylinder walls with fuel which is bad for break in.
I work at a engine plant for one of the big 3 they only us oil on the piston bores to help the operators with inserting the pistons. The whole engine is assembled dry no oil.
17:03 YES! That's how you have to be on TH-cam. I got a Naturally Aspirated EJ251.. Is the procedure still the same/about the same? About 100-250 miles and done?
Is it true that new cars from the dealership were already broken in? Thanks bro, great review for this topic🤝
No, if anything they've been left idling and driven around by port
New cars typically have 2 or 3 miles on them. Driving onto and off the boat and across the port
What would your break in procedure be when collecting brand new car from dealer ? as manual has no break in procedure at all
Car from dealer has already had a start up and engine oil replacement. They did the basic break in step. Just follow manufacturer recommendation aka don’t rev it all the way out.
Can crank the engine with plugs out and oil filter cracked till it physically has oil coming out to ensure prime.
It was a very informative video. I learned a few new things today!💪🏾
🙏🙏🙏
Thank you for all your awesome videos. This one is awesome on the subject. Great job.
One thing, what weight of oil would be best to break in with? Since the tolerances are tight.
Bro I got a brand new type ra short block and brand new heads, am thinking of changing the pistons and rods. Will this be reliable for a 450-500whp build?
Just send it with the RA block 👀
No sense in tearing it down
@@Smeedia really? How long with this last with Cobb 20g and Cobb flex fuel system
Depends on how it's driven and taken care of 👀 my old ra block was making 460whp and I best the piss out of it
@@Smeedia bet, bought my 2019 Sti brand new with 8 miles on it and it didn’t last much with only 420 @ the wheels and 442 torque. That’s I want a reliable 450-500 until I save up and built the old short block for bigger power
@@MYWRXSTI I also have a 2019 snd just had s new short block installed at 60,000kms. I love the car but it's making me nervous how long this new block will last
Breaking in a motor properly should be spun on a machine with the heads off with fresh oil before it’s in the car. Which is replicating the spark plug removal process although I do this as well anyways to prime it. Once it’s in the car and the oil pump is primed. Start it and then you do the idle procedure or with wheels off the ground put it in first and keep it steady rpm. Changing the oil after the first cycle. Then put fresh oil in it bring up to temp. Time to race, break in happens the first hour during that initial rpm variation procedure off the ground in your driveway or shop. After that just drive it like you are going to be driving it. Mines a race car. It gets tuned then raced. And my set up hasn’t changed much so the tune is usually pretty darn close. Then document your results. And then it becomes kind of ritualistic. But within all engine builders we can all agree that rpm and heat in the beginning is what seats the rings.
Was this only about rebuild engines or does this also apply dealership bought new cars too ?
Alot of engines in New cars are already broken in before they're installed in the car. Should be good to go
@@AzraelGG_ What? Who said that? So, you telling me that all those break in instructions in the manuals are wrong and the random guy in internet knows better ?
@John Snow
Some manufacturers may require a break in, notice how I didnt say all. But alot :) have a good one. Cheers
Dealer cars already went thru step 1 or 2 here, you get it already started with at least one oil change through it. Just use normal engine oil.
This is the first time I've heard anyone recommend using engine braking. I've always been of a mind that the car's brakes are cheaper and easier to replace so it's better to use them to stop the car, not the engine.
I assume the recommendation only applies to the initial break-in period?
Break in only
What type and brand of conventional
oil do you use for the cam break in? And I have Brian cower cams on my STI in my new built motor. I haven’t started it yet. But I noticed when I turn the crank by hand (the correct way of course) I hear the left head clucking and then after a few more turns the right head. That normal? Thanks
BC parts are basically cheap Chinese made copies of real performance parts, fancy packaged and offered at a reduced price to leading performance parts
anyone have any opinions on nameless no muffler catback or tomei. stuck on which one to choose for my 14 wrx hatch
How loud you want it? 😅
@@Smeedia i’m still on stock dp so as loud as i can make it with little drone
Tomei
I have a heavy heavy clutch. how am i supposed to stay under 3k rpm when i have to be at 3k to even get her rolling
Hay @Smeedia, have you ever heard of oem subaru fa20 engines being pre-broken in prior to sale? Had my shortblock recently replaced. When I asked the shop for break-in suggestions. They stated it was broken in before sale. Any advice?