How To Break In a New Engine.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- This topic always has a lot of controversy around it, but I've been asked so many times how I break in engines and what the process is. In reality engine, break-in happens way quicker than you may think and you're really only breaking in two components in a new engine. That's the Camshafts and the piston rings. So today let's cover engine break-in, this can be applied to stock engines, built engines don't matter.
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WTF - Tubebackr
Jumping off the porch - Broke In Summer
![Engine Break-In Myths Dispelled | Engine Break-In Tips And Tricks [GOLD WEBINAR]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5Ruk6GLJgbA/mqdefault.jpg)
Idk how to break in a new engine but i do know how to break a new engine
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Top comment
@@man.and.machines what an honor
Fucking comedy gold
I feel you on that one🤣
I'm am literally putting my engine the car right now, typing this with greasy dirt hands 😂😂😂😂
Lol how's the install going!?
Like a glove, just finishing the bell housing bolts right now
My tuner told me I was pretty much broke in after they dyno tuned it. Engine breaking creates vacuum and makes the piston rings expand which properly mates them to the cylinder wall. Swapped my break in oil after 100 miles. Then changed it again before 500 miles. Working so far
Soild break in it sounds like 💪
Dam! that motor makes enuff vacuum to bend steel? Dam!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Always so informative and well organized! This channel is definitely top five Subaru channels imo! Keep grinding gang!
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No! Rev high then release and repeat is the ONLY WAY to proper break-in an engine. If you baby it, there will not be enoug pressure/compression to seat it. Just don’t stay at high rpm, only because:
- you will get alot of heat from frictions.
- your oil is not full synthetic. Its mineral.
So, accelerate, decelerate, repeat until the engine is about to overheat. Turn off ignition, let the engine cool down.
I don’t know why people keep telling others to baby the car. Do you know how much punishment the engine get when you drive slow and lug it?
Not a big deal, but you've got blow-by backwards. It's leakage of combustion gasses past the rings into the crankcase, and becomes a problem when there's so much of it it cannot be handled by the PCV system. Oil consumption from ring wear or cylinder scoring happens when worn rings allow too thick a film of oil to remain on the cylinder wall, though If blow-by is extreme, it can cause pressurization of the crankcase and oil to be pushed past the worn rings on the intake stroke.. There is always a very thin film of oil left on the cylinder wall, even when a brand new engine is running, but this doesn't get burned because there is an extreme temperature gradient right at the cylinder wall that keeps this oil below its flash point. If the oil film is too thick, it can and does burn, though leaky valve seals are likely a more common path for oil to get into the combustion chamber. Finally, the main reason to use assembly lube instead of oil is that oil can be displaced during the rebuild process, leaving parts of the engine to become briefly oil starved during initial startup. Assembly lube is designed to be completely displaced by oil once the system is pressurized, leaving no residue behind, unlike the standard grease we used to use. If you have a way to pressurize the oil system before that initial startup, you wouldn't need to use assembly lube.
I think a lot of things said were good, but new parts arent smooth. The metal surfaces have high and low spots. The low load break-in process recommend by the OEM is to ensure these "rough" surfaces are polished down without heat and minimal wear on surfaces. Although oil is meant to hydrodynamically seperate metal parts, we still rely on protecttive additives like ZDDP and Moly. This wear is one of the reasons you don't mix and match engine parts during a rebuild, as the wear has already occurred between contact surfaces.
High ZDDP content in break-in oils help coat the metal parts with sacrificial coatings faster than standard oils with controlled levels of ZDDP for say emmisions. They can also help chemically remove high spots in higher doses.
I love your recommendation to replace oil at low miles. This helps remove assembly debris and break-in wear particles.
This is the best break-in video I've ever seen. Straight up FACTS from a guy who has actually put an engine together. Unfortunately, the VAST majority of people will incorrectly think they're still "breaking in" after 100 miles.
All down hill for an engine after its been "broken in" might as well start enjoying it as soon as it's ready 💪
Just did this one on a new EJ255. Changed the oil a couple extra times and it looks good and she rips! I’m enjoying giving it a workout.💪🏼
I agree this is one of the best informative videos on TH-cam without listening to hours of classroom lectures.
Got a 2024 crosstrek sport and I’m at 600 miles on the dot. Trying to think of how I was driving up until 150 miles on the dash 😂😅 I think I’m good, only a 2 hour drive going 75 on the freeway from the lot to my house was the hardest I’ve drove it
Heat cycles are also very important too! Need to get it up to operating temp🔥
Heat cycles aren't really going to do much with Cars, bikes and some other applications probably. But you'll naturally do thrm over time from driving 🙏
I recently bought an Outback with the FA24 engine in it. There was 43 miles on the odometer when I picked it up. I was concerned about how people “test drove” it. I have over 800 miles on it as of now. I drove it moderately for the first few hundred miles and did a few boosted highway entrance ramp pulls. Horsepower and torque feel really solid right now. The manufacturer recommends 1000 mile break in and no more than 4K rpm’s. I’ve only gone over 4K three times for a short period of time. I was a bit nervous that I may have hurt it until I watched your video. I honestly feel very comfortable that I didn’t hurt it. Thanks for a very informative video!
u wont hurt it lol
I have a new BRZ. I was given the same information from my dealership. I chose to have my first oil change at 615 miles. I am now at about 750 miles; I definitely feel like the engine is breaking in good; the way it responds is much better than the first 50-100 miles.
If you hurt it you would know it.
@@MrGsxr10001 It’s good, I made that comment over a year ago. She runs great!
@@MrGsxr10001 Yep, especially since it’s been over a year. Car has been trouble-free.
Dude! I know it's not just me, but rather the whole community that watches your channel, but thank you for the humility and knowledge you bring to the table. A lot of people would simply toot their horn as being the expert, but you recognize that there are different approaches and give your recommendation based on experience and understanding of these machines.
Awesome video, man. Keep it up!
Anytime and I'll always share what I can with everyone to try help where possible 💪🔥
YES. The video I've been waiting for! Lol many thanks for sharing your knowledge on the subject!
* so now you talked about the seating of the piston rings , and you explained that the process of the rings getting seated happens rather fast..And that your method of getting them seated involved driving the car at various RPMs while inducing vaccum. You advised against letting the car run at idle speeds on the first start up, and that's where I'm lost... So ... After the fuel pump and oil pump are primed, how do you burp the coolant system without having the car sit at idle for an extended period of time? The last time I burped my coolant it took A WHILE. How did you get around this?
That's totally fine, what I don't suggest is just leaving it to idle for long periods of time 🙏 Burping and all that jazz is good 🙏
Goog ole boys here swear it takes 2,000 miles to break an engine in. Always thought that was rediculous, especially with modern oils. Good teaching moment. Thx
Anytime my friend 🥳🔥
Is the intensity of slowing down by engine braking a good indicator of how well the engine has been broken in at the beginning? The stronger the engine braking goes, the better the engine has been broken in at the beginning?
If it's a manual do it in every gear
Iam a mechanical engineer 13 years exp. and was a mechanic for 5 years AND this is the best video on the web about this topic !! 👍👍👍👍👍🇸🇰🇸🇰
You're hljbqt gay.
And can't spell.............
@@MrGsxr10001think the flags might suggest English isn’t his first language. How many do you speak?
Just broke in my GR Corolla (now 1k miles)
Keep in mind -you are also breaking in the whole drive train (& brakes et al )
For the most part my list of things to do is very close to yours & what I have done going on at least 15 new vehicles.
This is my short & dirty list for first 600 ish miles (& oil change)
- I don't idle the engine to warm up - I drive very slow out of my residential area
- no short trips or long trips (35 to 80 miles)
- let engine get DEAD cold before next driving event - MPT
- don't drive during rush hour - for one so as not to idle or abuse the clutch
- step up engine RPM when accelerating. (in 1st gear - 1800 hold 15 sec 2000 for 15 sec 2200 for 15 sec 2500 for 15 sec - let car engine brake to 1800 & repeat in all gears) To not be the A-hole on the road I do this part of the break in at 5 am!!!
-the controversial part - but it's what I do. 50-75% Wide Open Throttle a few times each session (starting at 3k RPM) Allow vehicle engine brake to 1800 rpm and hold for a bit oil up the cylinders (helps seat the rings) & cool down a bit.
Hay @Smeedia, have you ever heard of oem subaru fa20 engines being pre-broken in prior to sale? Had my shortblock recently replaced. When I asked the shop for break-in suggestions. They stated it was broken in before sale. Any advice?
After the braking oil.......what type of oil u use,,,,,,,,,I have a 2007 sti limited.....iag second stage ,,,,,,,and iag said motul 5w 40,,,,,,the builder said 10w 40 Castrol regular oil,,,,,,?????love your channel lots of grate advice
I use 5W40 in mine 🙏
Motor Oil Geek has better info regarding the oil and ring seating.
But it is extremely refreshing to hear real, actual advice on TH-cam. If anyone followed this advice, they’d be set up for success.
Breaking in a car engine is essential to ensure its longevity and performance. During this period, usually the first 500-1,000 miles, engine components like pistons, cylinders, rings, and valves wear into each other smoothly. This process helps to create better seals, optimize friction, and prevent excessive wear later. Running the engine gently allows the metal surfaces to polish each other and properly distribute oil, which reduces the risk of overheating and damage.
Tires also require a break-in period of around 200 miles because the outer layer contains residues from the manufacturing process, which can make them slippery. Driving cautiously allows the surface to wear down and achieve optimal traction. Additionally, tires need to settle into their final shape and develop even tread wear.
Brakes, particularly the pads and rotors, need to be broken in (a process called bedding) to ensure the materials contact properly and to avoid glazing. Bedding-in brakes allows a thin layer of material to transfer between the pad and rotor, enhancing braking performance and minimizing noise or uneven wear.
Overall, breaking in these components ensures peak performance and prevents premature damage or failure.
There are teams of mechanical engineers who know the materials used in the engine and the temperatures and pressures the parts need to see before using the engine at higher revs. But everyone would rather take on the opinion of one guy on the internet and forget about the car longevity or its warranty… You go for it, I’ll stick with the recommendations.
Thank you for all the video's. Waiting on my IAG 900 to come in. Spun a bearing in my stock STI
Ooooffff hopefully won't be too long before the new engine comes 🤞
@smeedia hi ya,iv got a golf MK6 R & iv just had my engine re built with everything,Carrillo piston & rods supertech valvetrain cometic gasket ARP bolts polished/ported head & so much more,long story short my friend who’s built so many engines has now decided to leave me stranded right at the last bit & he knows the running in wasn’t something i wanted to do,we did the priming turning it over so all that is done,it’s now just the run in & he’s saying 500 miles (he’s always been extra safe) can you give me any tips? From what i THINK i no is..don’t keep at same speed change gears up & down regularly & do a lot of engine braking either by the paddles (it’s a DGS) with a 7 speed RS3 box,or just in S mode & let the gears drop from 5/4/3/2 ect then pick back up to speed & repeat,never staying at the same speed always up a little & then down a little,& keeping the RPM under 4K ? From what iv said is there anything you’d say to do or not do? BTW it’s on the 2.0L block well apparently it’s now like a 2.1 & the turbo of choice is a G25-660 i no you can’t put foot down for the turbo to come on but i really want to give this car the best start because iv put around 17K into this build & im from the UK BTW
I’ll appreciate any tips you can give 🙏
Awesome video bud! I actually need some advice on my build. I had a complete rebuild on the car and it's sat for about 6-7 months. It was on e85 and my parents have been running it from time to time running it on 93 to burn up some of the old fuel. What would be some stuff that I should do when I finally get the car back? I'm planning on changing the oil and going over all the fluids.
Use some fuel system cleaner, don't drive the car in boost until all the old gad is out. Aside from that you should be good to go
@@Smeedia thanks buddy really appreciate it!
I just got a iag stage 2...I only need 100-250 miles? Not the 1000? How tested is this? Wouldn't iag know better? Trust me, I don't want to wait 1000 miles
My longblock will be here any day perfect timing love your videos bro helped me with a lot of stuff pulling motor tear downs etc
Eyyyyy, perfect timing! 🥰
The engine should be primed either by physically turning the oil pump independently from the crankshaft or with a pressure priming can long before it's installed into the car.
Is it true that new cars from the dealership were already broken in? Thanks bro, great review for this topic🤝
No, if anything they've been left idling and driven around by port
New cars typically have 2 or 3 miles on them. Driving onto and off the boat and across the port
The info is kind of there, but the reasoning isn't really accurate and some points aren't right
I showed this to my dad because he was trying to tell me that you need to drive under 2k rpm’s for 4K miles on a bone stock Altima💀
How would that help benefit breaking in an engine 👀
you have the best sounding Subaru I’ve ever heard. Nice build and good video
Sounds consistent with what Andre was saying. Good stuff man 👌🏾
Thank you 🙏🙏
Actually I watched a video about how the bearings do kinda smooth out or something and they’re designed that way and that’s why it’s good to take it kinda easy at first so that they bed in and get smooth and that ensures you do always have the oil layer
video starts at 12:08
Exactly what I needed, my engine is almost done getting bored/honed so I should be assembling soon! Thanks for the tips
Anytime 🥳🔥
Happy building!
All great advice but the jumping caprions at the end is so irritating
.
Hi from Aus. The only readily available break-in oil is Penrite 15W-40. Is this ok to use?
You should be able to get motul breakin oil at autopro
Can’t watch now driving home boo
Drive safe!
@@Smeedia made it now time to watch 🔥
Followed, probably for way to long, the break in procedure Subaru suggested for my 21 and I use literally 0 oil between changes and I'm at 25k now. I really feel like a good break in is key when I hear about others that use oil at 30-50k miles already.
This is in general even with IAG Engines? Because I'm like 700miles on my Stage 2 Tuff and Haven't introduced Boost yet. Should at least introduce it to maybe 10psi? What do you think?
All engines, but every manufacturer will tell you a diffent processing it were me I'd be goinf full send at 700 miles
Just got my 19 sti back from the dealer who put in a new short block. They said they did the varying of rpm to seat the rings at first start up. The thing that has me puzzled is my boost was showing at 16.8 peak psi which means when they drove it after install they were hitting full boost. Has me a little concerned but i've been varying my rpms, engine breaking and not hitting boost myself even if it appears they did. Gonna start to incrementally add light boost like 4 psi and then change the oil at 1000kms and go back to normal driving.
IAG has the 1000 mile engine break in. Very difficult to follow. 1000 miles with no highway mileage. Tough to do in town.
Alot of around town miles 👀
Great video I’m one of those hard break in guys it’s worked out fine for my Sti. Knock on wood 😂
As long as they running good, that's all that matters 💪
Whos ready for tomorrow?
Whats tomorrow 👀👀👀👀
@@Smeedia dang. i thought dyno day was tomorrow. Is that next week?
Yessir, 1 week 🤝
My iAG engine listed 800 to 1000 prior to a tune. My break in tune limited RPMs to 3800
Every builder will have some diffrent procedures 🤝
With my IAG block my tuner is making me do 1500 on waste gate until I can get some power :/ but hey he knows better than me. Also has me at 3K rpm’s
Could you make a version for non-mechanics? My dealer put in a new engine, so I just need to know what to do now. And I don't understand your terms; have no idea what "boost" means. The 500 miles info was super helpful, though - thanks!
Boost refers to air being produced by the turbo. You may not even have to worry about Boost, depends if your car is turbo’d or not.
Solid advice!
🙏🙏🙏
its no longer the 1960's with a dingle ball hone and cast iron ring sets.
We have the technology 💪
Here how to do the right way not the easy way.. From cold, start it and hold the gas peal to the floor in neutral run it wide open for at least 15 minutes. If it does not blow it is broke in, oh down..
You forgot that you have to flood the throttle body with break cleaner and run the first tank of gas on ethanol.
Thanks for the video Tanner, this was great! Having the brand new type RA long block assembled for my launch edition this week, so this video comes in handy. Instead of following Subaru's break-in process of first oil change after 1k, I'm going to do an oil change at like 500 miles. Edit, side though. Makes sense that the boost gauge isn't functioning on the center gauges. But, does the drivetrain screen still work?!
Drive train screen does still work 🥳
17:03 YES! That's how you have to be on TH-cam. I got a Naturally Aspirated EJ251.. Is the procedure still the same/about the same? About 100-250 miles and done?
Just finished my EJ build. Cosworth break-in procedure on the dyno ~1hr, maintenance, then tune and power runs right after. Simples
💪💪💪
What if I have roller lifters?
I changed the oil at 50 mile then 250 then 500 and drove the car like you and then changed it again to motul v300 at 856 miles then on the dyno it went
Make some good power? 👀
what timing, just got my 06 STi rebuilt and here Tanner is to save the day 😎
🥳🥳🥳🥳
We need a teaser of the new whip!! It is Thursday after all!! 🙏🙏🙏
I don't have it yet 💔
😭😭😭💔💔💔
What about breaking in a race motor? First fire up will be on a chassis dyno. Cams have already been broken in previously.
Do what your builder recommends... what if you built your engine for the first time with new pistons and rings 😅
Lol, do what you believe is right then 😅
Not gunna lie I did it completely wrong to what you said 😅 I left the plugs and all in and tried to start it luckily it did not not start right away cause the spark plugs were bad so it got oil pressure changed them out and started up and ran for 30sec then started looking up procedures to see what to do cause pulling that thing back out is not I want to do so soon.
My new 2025 Chevy Trax owners manual shows a break in a period of 500 miles. What do you think the manufacturers are trying to accomplish by putting instructions for the first 500 miles to brake in.
It was a very informative video. I learned a few new things today!💪🏾
🙏🙏🙏
Awesome video; with some phenomenal information. I wish I saw this right before I picked up my 2024 BRZ. I did do my oil at 615 miles. If I saw this video I would have done my first oil change a little sooner. I am retired and only drive 4-5k per year. Just to be safe I will be changing my oil every 6months. True that’s low mileage, but with the chance of fuel dilution and oxidation; better to be safe than sorry.
Good thing I live in the mountains of Puerto Rico brake in going to be a breeze
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Great info!!! Especially for somebody like me who can find his engine under the hood of his BMW just 2 out of 3 try’s. 😂
My Chevy Bolt motor was broken in in 0.00174 seconds
So close to 100k😩🔥🙏Keep up the vids
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Broke in my engine with 18 lb pull within 2 miles of driving it. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I like this 🤌🔥
@@Smeedia luckily it was all used parts from 3 different engines. Even reused the bearings. They looked perfect anyways. 🤘
It depends on the type of piston rings you use and how well the machinist honed the cylinders.
Molly rings and micro-crosshatched cylinders will seat in just a few miles applying load.
Controversy of break-in period exist only because people have opinion without clear picture what break in is and what parameters affect it. Because so many unknown, there is no definitive answer can be given. It depends on materials hardness, oil type and its friction properties, detergent properties, certain ambient temperature expansion and contraction, initial build tolerances, type of driving/usage, ambient also slightly affects heat transfer in the block, initial filter parameters and capacity, sump capacity etc. Majority of these facts or estimates only manufacturer would know. At least better than anybody else. They even know what oil they put in. Maybe they used even certain break-in oil. All you have to go with to estimate the longest miles it possibly can be based on the worst combination of factors. If somebody says exact universal number, he has no idea what he is talking about. The best what can be done is to follow manufacturer schedule for break-in period. If you buy car because you trust manufacturer that built this car, why not to trust them with break in schedule.
Have you ever sent your oil to Blackstone or the other oil assayers to find out if there's actually higher amounts of 'particles' or a breakdown of your oil during break-in? Doesn't a good filter remove particles large enough to damage a bearing or cylinder within the first few miles of it's first run? All quality modern filters remove particles thousands of times smaller than the bearing clearances. No chunks of metal from assembly 'wear off' after all the oil has circulated and get trapped in the filter. Have you ever examined a filter when you change oil during break-in to see if there actually are 'metal particles from break-in' inside the filter?
I know of people who have damaged their engines during break-in. Typically they did not follow the factory recommendations to limit engine speed and load for the first few thousand miles, Engine friction is higher on a new engine, and more heat is generated. One particular owner took his air-cooled bike with newly completed valve job with it's tight valve stem clearances onto the highway on a very hot day, and seized the valves...
A great video brother. Stay safe out there.
Thank you my man 🙏
Can you just take off oil filter and make sure oil is dripping from there when cranking - ensuring oil pump is primed and pushing oil up. I don't have anything to measure oil pressure with...
hey there, bed in happens in the first 50 miles. car comes from factory already 50 miles. all our engines are all stuffed? i presume the car has little to no load while moving between trucks trains and ships?
I’m pretty sure ej’s take like 100,000 to break
100,000.
100
Who knows
Fr tho
But I did have a dumb question you said you need a mechanical oil pressure gauge I have a digital is that ok or should I hook up analog one
That works as well 🤙🙏
Was hoping I'd never have to watch this video again :./ Thank you for you insight as always!
I recently purchased a 2023 Winnebago Travato with the Ram Promaster chassis. It already had 2000 miles on it as they are driven from the factory to my dealership in California. I now wonder if all of that highway mileage was good for the engine. I immediately changed the oil and filter around 3000 miles with a good synthetic. I plan to keep it for a long time so maintenance with be done regularly.
If it’s built right send it all this breaking in mumbo jumbo is nonsense I’ve been building motors since 2001 never did any breaking in
Hi. Can i please ask a question and get your opinion? I bought a brand new CF MOTO 450RS motorcycle and from new, gear changes were rough and it had vibrations. After the first service, the bike felt a lot worse, and engine was over heating sporadically. At 1400klm I realised when the dealer said that it was normal and I had taken the bike back 6 times, back to the dealer, I investigated the problem and found the dealer was filling the oil to below the empty level. When I toped up the oil, it took 750ml to get it to the full line. That's 1/3rd oil missing since new.
In the cf moto user manual it states that the oil should only be filled to below the low line, but in doesn't say if this when the bike is on the side stand or upright on a service stand. Turns out they were filling it up on the service stand in the upright, and those instructions were for the bike being on the side stand. So dealer was filling my bike and some others short of oil.
Engine now sounds rough compared to new bike and I am hearing a slight ratting sound. Can you please tell me, during this crucial run in period, what is the potential damage to the engine and gear box? I think during the crucial 1000klm run in, period not having enough oil to meet even the bottom line of the low😊 indicator mark would have caused damage, but dealer said no, it's o.k..
Piston rings are fully broken in.....in 3-4 miles. When you get any new car from the factory, its race ready.
It’s takes about 100 to 200 total hours to completely break in any engine period.
78 la 360, just primer my engine without cranking on it, able to turn oil pump thru distributor shaft, had 60 lbs pressure and my rockers were oiling and I have roller rockers no cam break in, thanks for the tips, will use your technique for seating my rings
Breaking in a motor properly should be spun on a machine with the heads off with fresh oil before it’s in the car. Which is replicating the spark plug removal process although I do this as well anyways to prime it. Once it’s in the car and the oil pump is primed. Start it and then you do the idle procedure or with wheels off the ground put it in first and keep it steady rpm. Changing the oil after the first cycle. Then put fresh oil in it bring up to temp. Time to race, break in happens the first hour during that initial rpm variation procedure off the ground in your driveway or shop. After that just drive it like you are going to be driving it. Mines a race car. It gets tuned then raced. And my set up hasn’t changed much so the tune is usually pretty darn close. Then document your results. And then it becomes kind of ritualistic. But within all engine builders we can all agree that rpm and heat in the beginning is what seats the rings.
Thanks, I already got 1,500 so no need to keep driving like this until 3k like I was told.
So I’ve been absolutely grandmaing my new iag block for the last 200 miles, I assume I’m good at this point to drive it like a normal car?
Great timing, I was lapping valves for my engine going in hopefully this sunday
Whoop! When's first start?!
@@Smeedia if all goes well sunday or monday
LOL read through the facebook post comments on this the other night
Which post? 😅
The "She ready for some booooooost" post on the owners page
I know a guy who rebuilds Ford 302 engines then breaks them in at the local drag strip a few passes, they seem to last a long time maybe its just a Ford thing.
Use the a oil galley plugs to put pressurized oil through it while spinning it by hand. until you get oil coming out of every pushrod if you have a pushrod engine.
You said after the initial bedding no more bedding takes place then said you change the oil at 50 miles and do it again then talking about bedding in more. Everything you said contradicted what you said in the beginning🤔
A lot of motorcycle and watercraft builders also go by heat cycles. i used 8 heat cycles on my hi performance gp svho. ive had that motor 4 years and currently its 25 % more hp over showroom stock zero issues. changed the oil at 8 hours too
Really good info, thank you man. Definitely going to do this when I get my new brz, I don't believe the whole "1000 miles, keep it under 4k rpm" thing.
It's all a masquerade
Dont forget that aside from your 3 stone or ball hones grit, it’s allllll about the crosshatch angle specification to get the proper balance of oil retention and compression and heat dissipation. Machine shops can take it a step further with their machines by achieve a perfect “plateau” cut that accelerates break in
Outfront or IAG for a new engine?
Outfront
@@Smeedia Why outfront just wondering
Personal preference both are good.
But I'd rather have 1 person assemble an engine for me rather than have it go through an assembly line
doesn't the oil filter grab most crap anyway?
In reality most engines are "broken in" from the starter motor alone.
Here's what I picked up:
1. Conventional Oil to Prime engine - idle and check for leaks - don't forget to add coolant - Rev to 2k rpm - shutdown and drain oil.
2. Engine Break-in Oil - 0 to 50 miles. Stay out of boost (30% throttle or so)! Drain and change at 50 miles.
3. Engine Break-in Oil- 50-250 miles. Limited boost (30%-50% throttle or so)! Drain and change at 250 miles.
4. Regular Synthetic oil of your choice. Have fun full boost full throttle.
Thank you for all your awesome videos. This one is awesome on the subject. Great job.
One thing, what weight of oil would be best to break in with? Since the tolerances are tight.
Secondddd
🥳🥳🥳
So you said youre not double clutching your downshifts, but at the end of this vid I hear you blipping the throttle before downshifting, so I thought you were double clutching in last vid.
I learned how to double clutch downshifts after I Blew A Tranny!! ...cost me $1600 and I had to walk home ;)
Hopefully wasn't a long walk 😳
You're like my personal virtual tutor tbh I was stil stuck with the knowledge that engine braking is 300-500 miles. Well you learn things every day thank you bro
I used to prefill the oil pump with oil, then cap it with a dab of vasoline, to speed up the process.
Lol rando dude provide guidance over the manufacturer 😅😅😅