I stretched mine 8 inches with just leafs. (Xj and waggy). I after wheeling it hard for two years I decided I’m gonna link it. 4/3 like yours. Doing the low cog now. (I was already low for leafs as I use SOA on factory. I have tons of flex and I stay low and stable). Gonna do the 15in stretch and get some more body and frame in there, I wasn’t super happy at 102-3 on 40s. It’s stable side to side for sure but tall obstacles are uncomfortable. I’m gonna hope for 112-113
Hey man, loving the channel. Am about to embark on a YJ build. Already have front and rear Dana 60’s, have already gotten a bunch of useful information from your channel and I’m sure will be a great resource as I progress through the build. Keep posting brother!
Awesome brotha glad it’s helpful! Good luck on your build! I’ll definitely keep posting I’m wrapping up the front 3 links now and be starting on the brake system videos next.
Been watching your videos a lot lately. Really helped for a guideline. Im building a Yj on o6 f250 dana 60 in the front and 06 chevy 14 bolt in the rear. I got the barns jk truss im going with 3 link front with double triangulated 4 link rear. Using stock jk coil springs. 3 link videos were super helpfull. What are your thoughts on double triangulated rear. In that situation sould my upper and lower links be the same length?
That’s awesome! Thank you for your support! Sounds like an awesome build, I think double triangulated 4 links are great and has less to no flex steer. Only reason I didn’t do it on this build was because I have place on running a doubler set up and didn’t want to have issues with the crossmember I would have to build for the links being in the way. Always go thru a 4 calculator to check everything but I pretty much have always ran same length uppers and lowers on a double triangulated 4 link
@@KBWheelin that’s what I’m gonna have to do also. Was just slightly worried how integral it would be with the shock towers putting stress right in that area. But in order to not have to notch it my belly height would be like 26”. Like you said in one of your videos it’s a lot of give and take. How’s the anti squat on your setup?
@ccasson19 I’ve done it a few different ways on different builds. I’ve removed it and put dom across farther back down the frame rails. I had one build I removed it completely but that one haded a rear bumper that was welded to the rails. I don’t remember what this build calculated out to on the anti squat I think it was 90 percent but don’t remember lol plus I raised the ride height and in with the clovers which effects it too but it performs great.
A lot of people like to use a degree finder tool at the mounting point on the axle. I do the math personally. I use a 4 link calculator and punch in all the mounting location measurement and length of the arms and it will calculate the triangulation.
@kadeluis8724 no it won’t be on the main page is will be in one of the tabs. It depends what calculator you are using but it will be called link triangulation
@kadeluis8724 I don’t but you can get one on busted knuckles website and there’s has it from what I remember. I did another video also breaking down how to do the math on triangulation as well
I stretched mine 8 inches with just leafs. (Xj and waggy).
I after wheeling it hard for two years I decided I’m gonna link it.
4/3 like yours. Doing the low cog now. (I was already low for leafs as I use SOA on factory. I have tons of flex and I stay low and stable).
Gonna do the 15in stretch and get some more body and frame in there, I wasn’t super happy at 102-3 on 40s. It’s stable side to side for sure but tall obstacles are uncomfortable. I’m gonna hope for 112-113
Your videos help a lot. Thank you! You should look into getting a set of magnet triangles. They help hold the brackets in place as you tack.
Awesome glad they help! I have a bunch lol I just need to get better about actually using them lol
@@KBWheelin And wear your mask when welding, even tacking! Holy smokes that made me flinch!
I liked the way you explained it thanks
No problem! Glad it was helpful
Hey man, loving the channel. Am about to embark on a YJ build. Already have front and rear Dana 60’s, have already gotten a bunch of useful information from your channel and I’m sure will be a great resource as I progress through the build. Keep posting brother!
Awesome brotha glad it’s helpful! Good luck on your build! I’ll definitely keep posting I’m wrapping up the front 3 links now and be starting on the brake system videos next.
Great video
Thank you! Only gonna get better as I get used to editing lol
Bros math is on point I would've to measure that 10 times to remember
Awesome job explaining bro!
Thank you!
Good job.
Thank you!
Been watching your videos a lot lately. Really helped for a guideline. Im building a Yj on o6 f250 dana 60 in the front and 06 chevy 14 bolt in the rear. I got the barns jk truss im going with 3 link front with double triangulated 4 link rear. Using stock jk coil springs. 3 link videos were super helpfull. What are your thoughts on double triangulated rear. In that situation sould my upper and lower links be the same length?
That’s awesome! Thank you for your support! Sounds like an awesome build, I think double triangulated 4 links are great and has less to no flex steer. Only reason I didn’t do it on this build was because I have place on running a doubler set up and didn’t want to have issues with the crossmember I would have to build for the links being in the way. Always go thru a 4 calculator to check everything but I pretty much have always ran same length uppers and lowers on a double triangulated 4 link
What size of joints you have, by the way great video.
keep us posted on how to build the links.
Thank you. There 1 1/4” upper and lowers
Also I forgot to mention the video on building the links is up!
How did you get up travel clearance for upper links. I’m running into hitting the cross member the stock mounts to
Stock tank.
I notched mine
@@KBWheelin that’s what I’m gonna have to do also. Was just slightly worried how integral it would be with the shock towers putting stress right in that area. But in order to not have to notch it my belly height would be like 26”. Like you said in one of your videos it’s a lot of give and take. How’s the anti squat on your setup?
@ccasson19 I’ve done it a few different ways on different builds. I’ve removed it and put dom across farther back down the frame rails. I had one build I removed it completely but that one haded a rear bumper that was welded to the rails. I don’t remember what this build calculated out to on the anti squat I think it was 90 percent but don’t remember lol plus I raised the ride height and in with the clovers which effects it too but it performs great.
@@KBWheelin thanks for the info. Never done this before and your videos have been a huge help
Dumb question, but how do you find out what you’re triangulation is
A lot of people like to use a degree finder tool at the mounting point on the axle. I do the math personally. I use a 4 link calculator and punch in all the mounting location measurement and length of the arms and it will calculate the triangulation.
@@KBWheelinwhat is it called in the calculator? Is it the travel roll center?
@kadeluis8724 no it won’t be on the main page is will be in one of the tabs. It depends what calculator you are using but it will be called link triangulation
Do you have a link to the one you use?
@kadeluis8724 I don’t but you can get one on busted knuckles website and there’s has it from what I remember.
I did another video also breaking down how to do the math on triangulation as well