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The extra cooling offered by the louver is enticing but what about rain water? Is that a problem with the louver? I trimmed the fender liners a bit on my Jeep JK and installed a thermostatic switch with relay that cycles the fan on low when under hood temps get high and that helped tremendously. Especially since it will cycle off and on when parked during hot soak while in the grocery store etc. My Jeep is an 07 so the catalytic converters heat up the engine bay way more than I would like but I'll be doing something about those when replacing the clutch in the next 20Kish miles. Maybe sooner if I get irritated enough about the heat. Thanks for the video.

So does the thick red wire go to Positive on Battery, and you said you combined thick blk/white and thin blk, so do those 2 go to Negative on battery? and on the red/blk/green/yellow wires. Red would go to my sPOD, is the blk the ground? Since I have no lockers i can snip off green and yellow and by the thick red and white i can snip those 2 connections that are for the Front/Rear Lockers?

Super appreciate the honesty. Every video I saw made it seem like they should be free as a bird. Every sequence ended the same...smooth rotation with a decent amount of resistance. You finally showed me the resistance is expected.

Were the bungs pre welded?

I've been following your videos for over a year. I based my build off yours. Great work, brother!

Been watching your videos a lot lately. Really helped for a guideline. Im building a Yj on o6 f250 dana 60 in the front and 06 chevy 14 bolt in the rear. I got the barns jk truss im going with 3 link front with double triangulated 4 link rear. Using stock jk coil springs. 3 link videos were super helpfull. What are your thoughts on double triangulated rear. In that situation sould my upper and lower links be the same length?

Great video. I want to get rid of my powertrax lunch box locker. I want to go back to stock spider gears. My question is when putting it's back together do I need to do the lash again? Will I have shims to deal with Dana 44 98 TJ.

I finally completed my rear!!! Now on to my front. I must say i have gone over this 3 part video like 6 or 7 times for notes, lol. One question regarding the upper and lower links are they all the same length, or did u make the upper link shorter or longer than the lowers?? Thanks again for all the amazing content

How did you know how high to mount your upper coil tower prior to this?

Hi, you said the self tapping screws you used are 5” long? Maybe you meant 5/8”? Thanks

you using fluxcore or gas? been scared to start my yj build myself, tired of staring at it on jackstands. my 1 local shop that’s able to do it, still hasn’t gotten back to me…

Learning a lot on this channel. Please keep them coming good sir

Hey buddy how goes it =) I have been studying your build like crazy as I'm building my yj. On this part or the video I'm wondering at ride height what is the distance that u have between the coil and the inside sidewall at the top of the tire. Thanks and all the best.

why not use the press to press the ring into the locker assembly?.. I am curious.. some people say pressing the ring into the locker is the right way.. other people say whacking the ring into the locker assembly with a dead blow hammer is the right way.. other people heats the ring to 200F and freezed the locker assembly.. other people use the bolts to drive the ring into the locker body (although some people say this is not a good idea as it could deform the locker assembly flange where the ring rests... Thanks!

What part number for locker and install kit did you use?

Needed this. Thank you

Mine has a brown wire for drl how should I wire that? Or do I have to? Mine round lights is what I mean. I haven’t gotten them in yet on my 93 yj.

How did you get up travel clearance for upper links. I’m running into hitting the cross member the stock mounts to

This is the best video I've ever seen about suspension triangulation. I totally get it now! Thanks for posting it! I'm scratch designing and building my next RC chassis and was hoping not to need a panhard bar.

Hey all, great video man. Thanks, I have a question. The air controller box that comes with the locker.. will it be able to be hooked up to a different onboard air supply and work correctly? I want to be able to use an onboard for filling tires as well

Very helpful thanks for posting

What type of steel did you use?

What about positioning of the truss. In regards to pinion angle. How do you know the truss is in the right position? Im asking because i meed to install a truss on my dana 35 for my tj.

Do you have the Yukon puller? It works pulling off the pinion bearing?

This is the best sterling build video I've seen yet. Thank you!

Thank you for making this video, well done. It sure would be nice of ARB to give the option. Gotta bitch about something haha.

Which pitman arm did you end up using?

Hey!!!

Heard a lot of good things about those Patagonias

Nice! Love it when a plan comes together.

Thank you so much for explaining the notch reverse thread, had no idea. What amp setting do you use for these heim links? What setting would you use for heim tie rods?

Thank you for the video. I ordered a couple off of rock auto and they were a little to big. Can you please share the amazon link.

You skipped the first part about how to get the axle shafts out I am having a hard time getting the clips out of the axles

My cyber truck could do that with ease 😂

Where did you buy the bracket for the compressor??

Hey dude, nice install video! Just wondering how its going with the self tappers? Any issues to be aware of?

I have a dana 50 and replaced carrier and ring and pinion. I have endplay in the pinion after tightening fully, should it be shimmer behind the outer pinion besring race?

Very cool video thanks, is it possible to remove without taking it out of the axle housing?

😃 P R O M O S M

Do you want the mount on the axle as wide as possible for better stability?

Put a 50 in my Comanche using an Artic truss and machined the knuckles for TMR hi steer arms. I’ll have it on the road eventually lol. What size tire are you running on the 50’s you use? Appreciate the video

You should do a longer video on how the suspension set up on lime time is working. I’m using you build videos as kind of a how to on my yj build. Looks good though

Thank you for making this YJ series. Just found your channel doing research for my own YJ crawler project. I was feeling overwhelmed that I was goi g to have to spend a fortune on a kit which would have been impossible for me to do on a disabled vets fixed (and very low) income. I now feel like with some universal parts it’s something obtainable for me. Thank you again

Great video, keep putting them out! Like the way you break it down.

Brilliant video, such a huge help. Front and rear lockers are independant of each other now.

Excellent video!!! I wish I would have seen this prior to installing a gland nut! QUESTION PLEASE! So I'm in the middle of this exact install. Got a great pattern drive and coast. I got the football on drive side and I would say the coast side looks a little like a feather shape. I would say nearly identical to yours. -Patterns are centered. -Pinion bearing preload is 20-22 inch lbs. Avg B/L is .008. . -Pinion depth is .028 .002 B/L variation runout on teeth which I attribute to the phosphate coating on the new gears. I've made sure to mark the location of the dial indicator base on the housing and take the B/L measurement closest to the same location / angle possible each time on the teeth. New Ford E-lock Carrier which has .001 runout. New Yukon 4.88s. All new Timken bearings and races. No noise on drive whatsoever, but I've got tiny, faint noise on deceleration. I'm thinking I should increase the preload to the end of spec at 35 in/lbs as I suspect it's unloading a little causing the pattern to change on the coast side. This is a daily, not a wheeler so trying to make her quiet as possible. I'd really love your input on this.

Do u keep the shims on the axle side ?

Thank you!

Well done Sir.

A new video! 🎉🎉🎉