I finally completed my rear!!! Now on to my front. I must say i have gone over this 3 part video like 6 or 7 times for notes, lol. One question regarding the upper and lower links are they all the same length, or did u make the upper link shorter or longer than the lowers?? Thanks again for all the amazing content
That’s awesome! Congrats. So on mine I did the upper link longer to help maintain caster while driving. But it’s still a balance cause you have to keep the driveline happy. Busted knuckle has a great three link calculator you can download for free that will help with running all the numbers and seeing how they will effect caster and pinion angle during travel.
Great video, I'm building semi 4 link on samurai with nissan patrol axle wondering can rear and front link be different size because of packaging problem
I’m not sure what you mean by different size but I design my front and rear suspension separately from one another the only thing they share is ride height and depending on the application that might be different.
Gotcha. No they definitely don’t need to be the same length. As I said befor the front and rear are typically designed slightly different from one another and depending on use. The Jeep I am building in the video has rear links 2”-3”longer than the front
Dumb question, how much modification did you have to do to the Barnes mounts with the truss? I’m going to be doing pretty much the exact setup that you have , and im torn between the artec diy kit and the Barnes. I like the Barnes because of your video, and the price, but I notice in the pictures it looks like it’s meant to be welded right to the axle tube
I just did a bunch of measuring to get the correct hight then cut it down flat to weld to the rope of the truss.wouldn’t say it was a ton of work…. Took longer to get all the measurements right than to do the work
@@KBWheelin thank you! I don’t think it will be bad, I’ve been watching your videos and honestly it’s the best walk through I’ve found so far. I’m going from a turbo 4 banger to a sbc so that will be fun too
@@KBWheelin sorry to bother again, Im really new to doing this, been building raceboats for years, and doing cars and stuff but never anything this intricate. Do you mind sharing what kinda welder your using? Source voltage/amp rating. Im gomma be using all of your videos along my journey haha
I needed it on the drivers side so there will be room for the exhaust and also find that having the upper link on the pumpkin gives better and more consistent pinion angle control. I have done it both ways and had them work will either way but I’ve never had any binding issues having the upper link on the pumpkin side vs the other, I could see it being a binding issue if I had narrowed the axle cause it would put the upper link at enough angle it would fight the track bar on droop but I’m running full width axles so the link is straight.
Considering how important that third link is, its literally the only thing holding your axle in place, that bracket mount looks feeble to me. I hope you have plans to gusset the sides of those plates on top of the diff, myself I also wouldn't MIG weld it, I would use dual shield Metal Core. -Welder Fabricator, with over 30 years in the trade.
I mentioned it in the video that after everything is finished it would be boxed in and be putting some gussets. There’s definitely many options for burning everything together someways better than others.
Absolutely love this video. I’m actually in the middle of doing the same build on my 92 YJ.
Another great video! Your editing skills are getting better and better too!
Thank you! I really appreciate that, I’m trying to get better at it haha
I finally completed my rear!!! Now on to my front. I must say i have gone over this 3 part video like 6 or 7 times for notes, lol. One question regarding the upper and lower links are they all the same length, or did u make the upper link shorter or longer than the lowers?? Thanks again for all the amazing content
That’s awesome! Congrats.
So on mine I did the upper link longer to help maintain caster while driving. But it’s still a balance cause you have to keep the driveline happy.
Busted knuckle has a great three link calculator you can download for free that will help with running all the numbers and seeing how they will effect caster and pinion angle during travel.
Great video, I'm building semi 4 link on samurai with nissan patrol axle wondering can rear and front link be different size because of packaging problem
I’m not sure what you mean by different size but I design my front and rear suspension separately from one another the only thing they share is ride height and depending on the application that might be different.
Sorry not size length, do rear link have to be same length as front.
Because i don't have space in front to make them the same.
Gotcha. No they definitely don’t need to be the same length. As I said befor the front and rear are typically designed slightly different from one another and depending on use. The Jeep I am building in the video has rear links 2”-3”longer than the front
Dumb question, how much modification did you have to do to the Barnes mounts with the truss? I’m going to be doing pretty much the exact setup that you have , and im torn between the artec diy kit and the Barnes. I like the Barnes because of your video, and the price, but I notice in the pictures it looks like it’s meant to be welded right to the axle tube
I just did a bunch of measuring to get the correct hight then cut it down flat to weld to the rope of the truss.wouldn’t say it was a ton of work…. Took longer to get all the measurements right than to do the work
@@KBWheelin thank you! I don’t think it will be bad, I’ve been watching your videos and honestly it’s the best walk through I’ve found so far. I’m going from a turbo 4 banger to a sbc so that will be fun too
@@sschwager96 nice that’s what I have in the Jeep in the videos. The sbc is definitely worth it!
@@KBWheelin sorry to bother again, Im really new to doing this, been building raceboats for years, and doing cars and stuff but never anything this intricate. Do you mind sharing what kinda welder your using? Source voltage/amp rating. Im gomma be using all of your videos along my journey haha
Why didn’t you put the upper link on the other side so it doesn’t bind when the axle drops out ?
I needed it on the drivers side so there will be room for the exhaust and also find that having the upper link on the pumpkin gives better and more consistent pinion angle control. I have done it both ways and had them work will either way but I’ve never had any binding issues having the upper link on the pumpkin side vs the other, I could see it being a binding issue if I had narrowed the axle cause it would put the upper link at enough angle it would fight the track bar on droop but I’m running full width axles so the link is straight.
Considering how important that third link is, its literally the only thing holding your axle in place, that bracket mount looks feeble to me. I hope you have plans to gusset the sides of those plates on top of the diff, myself I also wouldn't MIG weld it, I would use dual shield Metal Core. -Welder Fabricator, with over 30 years in the trade.
I mentioned it in the video that after everything is finished it would be boxed in and be putting some gussets. There’s definitely many options for burning everything together someways better than others.