3 Link vs 4 Link vs Radius Arm vs Watts Link vs Wishbone 3 Link
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ย. 2020
- 4 links, 3 links, radius arms, which one is best? To answer that we need to do a deep dive and learn about the pros and cons of each system. Lesser known options like the watts link or wishbone 3 link are great too for the right application.
There is no "one size fits all" answer to this question and making the right decision takes doing your own homework. Learning basic suspension geometry can help anyone that likes to go off road. Whether you are shopping around for a bolt on kit or want to build something from the ground up, this information is important. This video is just the tip of the Iceberg! Consider this episode a homework assignment. Now that you have a bunch of search terms like watts link and radius arm, go investigate the pros and cons to each of these systems! Enjoy the video!
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#offroad #4x4 #rockcrawler - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Why couldn't school be this interesting growing up
Lol
You Had The WRONG Teachers My auto class Teacher did road racing we rebuilt the car in class (off-season)
Mechanical engineering classes will talk about geometry and design of link systems. The applications they discuss normally are not this cool or interesting though.
We rebuilt a local's VW Karman Ghia droptop in High School. The owner pays materials, we do the "free labor". body, paint, interior, engine, electrical. I started out with my dad at 10yo on our work trucks, mostly Ford 4x4, as we were a logging company in WA, crew cab meant 4doors for your actual crew...but yeah, I spent plenty of nights laying on cold concrete or gravel in W.WA, often in the rain, fixing Ford Trucks. By the time I got to High School, I knew most of it. We had hydraulic press, welder, bandsaws, and the super important Oxy Torch...the gas axe.
@@ypop417 my diesel classes were interesting but general ed wasnt
"If you're just an average Joe like me or you..." lol I appreciate the compliment Nate, but my TJ on a 4" Rough Country lift and 33s doesn't even compare to what you're doing here. Thank you sir, I have learned so much from these videos!
I like how nate actually gathers his own information instead of just spouting whatever the forums or Facebook is saying
Another great video Nate. A couple points not mentioned that I think are important:
Regarding consuming joints on the radius arm; similar to going with a 3 link front versus a 4 link, you can remove (or not install) one of the upper "arms" on a radius arm and eliminate the bushing wear that results from the axle rotation applied when the suspension articulates. When the suspension articulates, as opposed to simple droop, one radius arm will be trying to hold the axle in the static caster rotation while the other will be trying to rotate the axle. This difference in axle rotation is what causes bushing wear. Eliminate one of the upper "links" and you eliminate the different rotation since now only one arm is controlling caster rotation as the suspension cycles.
Second point regarding using a double triangulated 4 link on the front to eliminate the pan hard, I don't think eliminating the pan hard is desirable unless you are going full hydro or a rack and pinion for steering. If you are using a linked steering (not rack and pinion) with a drag link, you WANT your axle to swing through a lateral radius identical to the lateral radius that your drag link swings it through. This way there is no bump steer resulting from your drag link swing radius being different from your axle lateral swing radius (or lack there of in the case of a triangulated 4 link).
If you have a nice flat drag link at static suspension height, chances are you might not notice any bump steer through the normal driving suspension cycle range but if your axle is not swinging through the same lateral radius as the drag link, it WILL be there. Similar to old front leaf spring suspensions, which have no lateral travel radius, it may only be noticeable with a large suspension travel range but if we're talking ideal suspension solutions, I think a pan hard link is necessary for a drag link steering system.
You are a superior teacher, my friend. It’s a gift and you use it well. Thank you for sharing, teaching, and being an all around bad-ass we can share with our buddies and aspire to. The fact that your a family man, and are clear on your life priorities makes it all the more solid and inspiring. Keep it up!
Some of the best suspension info out there! Thanks for the high quality content!
Thanks for watching!
Love the videos man, The production quality and even the music in the vids is just top-notch. Love what you do and I hope this channel can take off
Thanks bro!
I very much appreciate these videos. Im a mechanical engineer and I STILL learn alot from these. Engineering nomenclature and offroad nomenclature are just so much different, these overviews help me a lot to make sure that in my videos I’m speaking the same language as a fabricator/DIYer. It also helps so that I know which setups are the standard go to’s and why rather then me scratching my head with some of the stuff I see manufacturers do haha.
Very inspiring stuff!
Nate you're the best. I see how many of your viewers appreciate the teaching aspects of your vid's as much as I do. Hat's off to you, Brother!
Thank you Nate. Excellent content. Learned a few things. Appreciate all you do for the community. 👍💪🤘
Thank you for watching man! And the positive comment 👍
You shall now be referred to as "Professor Nate" - I learn more from this channel every week than just about anywhere else combined! Awesome work as always.
Nate, I watch these videos religiously! I have learnt so much from you, now I have so much confidence to start building. My first project is a 10 ton workshop press I've already started, I'll post photos when done. Thanks a lot man!
PS, I'm in Botswana, that's how far you're reaching!💪
I don't know about anyone else but your videos like this are super helpful in my planning process thank you
Been thinking about the long arm kit and I want aware of all the other options.
As always great material with exceptional explanation. Thank you for dumbing it down for guys like me.
Congrats, great content. This week I was disgusting about suspension tunning for my Brazilian Troller T4 and you explained all much better then me. I shared your video with my offroad club. keeping doing more technical videos.
I really enjoy the technical expertise of your channel.
Thanks Nate! Great info. My brother has been running a watts type link setup in his Jeeps for years. We’re working on a long arm JT setup that utilizes one in the rear.
"What's the best XXX ?" I get this a lot with car stereo brands/equipment. There is definitely no "best" just "Best for your application." Glad you brought this up.
Love the insight and information. This definitely helps with my current dilemma with suspension decisions on my 88.5 samurai.
Super video. You really do a great job of breaking the information down. Very informative and educational.
Excellent overview of the options available !!!!
NATE!!! Dropping knowledge in a bare bones way again! Love your content man- just stretched my JK last month. Wanting to eventually double triangulate the rear, and make a 3 link front. Keep up the solid work!
I enjoy the concept videos, between you and Busted Knuckle I’ve learned a ton about suspension design
Damn son. Thanks for explaining things. I am messing with the links on my daughter's rc crawler and found this so informative and will no doubt watch this AGAIN before im done. There's alot more to making axles fit, go up n down etc than I realised. 👍
Finally a great explanation of the mystical 3/4 link! Thanks!👍
I finally know the proper name for the rear suspension on my tracker! So a wishbone 3 link is actually a thing! Nate you’re awesome and please keep up the great content!
Ahhhhh! What about leaf springs, shackles and slider boxes!?!? Lol nice work, looking forward to part 2😜
Another great video, you are an exceptional teacher. As always, thanks for the content.
Great video Nate👍👍 I really appreciate your suspension content
i built a track bar drop bracket on the jeep side to get rid of the bump steer and what a difference it made, almost no bump steer now. Thanks for the info man. I remember before i had the knowledge through your videos i bought a 6 inch drop pitman arm thinking i would fix my bump steer and how much worse it made it lol, the disappointment in spending all the time not to mention money. I would really like to try the double triangulated suspension so i can get ride of the track bar and some bump steer i have at the rear. Cant wait to check out your video on that.
As you know, your D2 came with a Watts link on the rear axle. Lots of Disco owners swap the Watts link out for a rear Panhard rod as the Watts links are notorious for limited travel so that’s a concern to be aware of.
Thank you very much this was a great video! Helped me plan my WJ a little more.
As always great video great info ! Tune ability of a 4link is nice to have . I've built several different styles aswell . I usually go with what suites the project the best .
I bought a suzuki jimny 5 door and this video helped a lot
After building several 3/4 link rigs at the shop I'm still on leaf springs. Love the simplicity, strength and lack of track bars. And yes leafs can flex! Excellent video mate!
How did everyone like the 3 link? I'm thinking of 3 linking my rear on my 86.. I wanted to keep the stock tank. Have long travlenin the front. And was debating on rear deavers or 3 link
I like these kind of videos! Reminds me of Engineering Explained. Keep up the good work!
Nice job explaining everything.😎
Great job! I am doing a build where I was able to have triangulated 4 link front and rear, and someone pointed out to me that I may have bump steer in the front from the 4 link holding the axle centered during travel, but the crossover steering arm changing angles will make it so it feels like bump steer. I played with it quite a bit and I see what he’s saying, but I haven’t driven it yet so we will see. It’s a TH-cam build (ugh) so you can check out what I mean if it’s unclear.
Great job on your channel. Keep having fun!
Good info in a way that makes sense. I'm only starting to plan out a linked build for the semi distant future and now have a bit more knowledge (and a lot more thinking) to do
Great video. I thought I knew everything about suspension systems. I was wrong. Thank you
You're a great teacher
The watts link is great for air or hydraulics because the axle moves straight up and down as opposed to a pan hard bar that can make the axle move side to side as the car moves up and down
Wtf? Doesn't that mess your alignment up? How much side to side are we talking here? Like an inch?
@@lk6912 depends on the length of the bar and how much vertical travel the suspension has
a well articulated synopsis
The Watt's link also keeps the axle centered through suspension travel. It's also more tune-able than a panhard. It works very well in road race cars that are required to use a solid axle.
Glad you went over all the possible systems. Thinking about going 3 link in the front of my JL. Want to do a triangulated 4 link in rear, but that damn fuel tank location causes issues. Mine isn't a trailer queen, so relocation is a huge problem. Need time to figure it out. Glad you started your own channel. You seem more relaxed. Keep up the great content!!👍🏻👊🏻🤘🏻
This is what distance learning should be for every kid in highschool right now... 👊👊👊
Absolutely love these videos
Really enjoy the informational content.
I really enjoyed this, thanks for sharing 💯
Wishbone 3-link owner here... No flex steer! It'll flex out like it shouldn't be possible to become that limber, but it doesn't flex steer.
I think the people who make these goofy claims should put their credentials alongside their statements. One could only assume that the people who experience this issue are not compensating for the added stressors upon the singular load bearing link. Gussets, tubing, and one big heim joint going back to two polyurethane bushings mounted on the same bolt that the lower control arms ride on. Fabtech figured it out perfectly on the TJ and it is the best thing since sliced bread!
I like their design so darn much, I'm borrowing the design for my K5 Blazer... AKA a bigger Jeep made by Chevy.
The Watts is used on my Alfa Romeo Milano with a rear mounted transmission, It all tucks inside of the Dion Triangle. Its great for a race car.
Man I've been scouring the internet for information on doing a solid axle swap on my Chevy van and there just isn't any videos of this being done.
I feel like you & your channel would be the best resource for doing a swap like this and showing how it's done. Would be really cool to see you do a step by step video on how to convert a van from 2 wheel drive to 4x4. Something to consider!
I'll even loan you my van for the build 😜
i think the hardest part of it all is just committing. Im glad there are online computer programs to try and help you figure out some of the numbers
That Toyota in the intro looks like a beast!
great video. watts links are useful if the lateral movement of the axle when using a panhard is a problem for you. they keep the axle centered during travel
Perfectly explained
I have both front and rear double triangulated 4 links. Nice and simple.
Articulate guy. Good job ...exactly what I needed ...Trying to sort out a V8 TJ that has triangulated four link front and rear that works well Offroad but is almost un streetable
More knowledge bombs dropped. Great video Nate!
Super cool information!
Excellent information
Good video man thanks for the info 👍
Hey man love your content hope the channel continues to grow you’re an inspiration to me and I am in the process of doing a building and have some questions if you could answer for me ?
I’m considering the Savvy Mid-Arm for my LJ. I’ve been hearing that it’s one of the best designs.
Hay Nate how are u doing ? Things look a little wild in your area . We have lots of the smoke working up this way here in BC. Hope u are staying safe. Great videos great content keep up the good work.
Very Educational thank you.
I still subscribe and love BleepinJeep but I'm so glad you branched out with this volume of great content. Top quality Nate!
Great stuff man
I learned something new, thanks for the explanation! #thumbsup
Killing it as always
thanks for answering questions for us mere mortals
Nate. nice and thanks for the good info, they say radius dont flex a lot well that is ppl opinion , i love my be safe and kip the good videos
I'm building my first jeep in my garage. I will be building a custom 3 link front and rear with pan hard bar. Wish I had some with your knowledge here to walk me through it when The time comes.
Another cool solid axle suspension is the torque tube suspension used in UNIMOGs and the model t and some other stuff (not that practical to build it aftermarket but still cool). And a crazy suspension that just boggles you mind to try to figure out is the de dion suspension (prob mispelled)
I have my kingpin 60 on radius arms, putting a wishbone on my corporate this winter when the 5:1 atlas gets installed.
When do we discuss 1 ton Independant?
Great videos, you have a gift.
Great video
Many thanks for wrapping up this rather complex topic so easily for us really "average Joes" out there. One question regarding the panhard rod after lifting the vehicle (say 2 inches): The mount on the frame must be brought down 2 inches as well, right? Seems like this gets forgotten in many cases, causing the axle to travel far more sideways than it should.
Damn what a solid vid 👌🏾
Nate, the BIG advantage to a watts link is that it keeps the axle centered through out the travel of the axle. no rear steer at all.
Very, very good !!!
The upper wishbone was OEM in Jeep WJs. It is like a triangulated upper links where the axle mounts are at the same point. However, in practice, a wishbone tends to be much shorter than triangulated upper links.
There is a company that makes a very unique rear Watt's linkage for a JK with standard or Dana 60 housings. The unique part is the center element is horizontal on top of the axle instead of vertical behind it. What makes the Watt's link preferred over that Panhard rod is there no side movement of the axle...the center is always centered. Ditto for the upper wishbone and a well-executed triangulated links.
The problem with either double triangulated links, a wishbone, or a Watt's link in front is the drag link from the pitman arm to the knuckle that will cause bump steer. With a Panhard bar, lots of effort is made to make the Panhard bar and drag link parallel. Full-hydraulic steering cures that problem and double triangulated is de rigueur on rock bouncers and I thought on 4400 class Ultra 4s that didn't have IFS.
Hey Nate loved the video but you forgot one other setup for 4x4 trucks leaf spring.
Thanks
Excellent!
hank you for sharing, your video is very good, I love it. Nice to meet you. Wish you happiness and success in life
the biggest benefit to a watts link is the lack of side to side push on the axle from a panhard bar, doesn't justify the complexity for a 4x4 but it works good on cars
Watts links are awesome in low travel set ups like muscle cars and whatnot. it keeps the axle really stable and keeps the body from shuffling one way or the other like a panhard bar setup. I agree though, it's hard to imagine when you would build one for a 4x4.
I would like to hear your take on leaf spring.. it's the simplest for sure..
Nate im sure your highly busy ! I love the channel, I've learned so much . If you see this and would know ? I have a 77 Cj5 I'm rebuilding. I believe the link suspension would be great on it . My question is if you would know if I could link my Jeep? I just don't want to order the joint's and it not work. I'm going to keep doing my homework . This is the only reason I'm asking , I want to run 35s. I want to link it , but I don't want to do any cutting. I want it to retain a classic Jeep look. Thank's for the video's man there great !
I am just learning how to and where to start on my triangulated rear 4 link with coilover conversion, and front torsion bar delete with coilover conversion on my 2001 Ford Ranger Trail Truck build. I have already begun by recording some measurements, throwing away all of the factory suspension, and ground away the rear shock tabs from the 8.8 rear diff. Now I am ready to purchase the proper suspension pieces & put back together & finish powder coating everything. I just realized that even though I have a solid plan, and i'm not scared or afraid of this, I also accept that I don't know as much about getting the first stages of the ball rolling.
I probably need to decide how big the wheels and tires will be.
How much lift I want, higher than factory ride height. I was thinking about 4" so I can go from 32" to 35" tires. 16" to 17" wheels.
Then I should be able to establish with that information, what height to set the differentials on jack stands and height to set the frame on frame stands, giving me my ride height. Right? Until I do that, I can't establish my driveline angles, thus, cannot weld the tabs and mounts for the 4 links. Am I thinking clearly? Is anyone reading me? haha. It's almost like I have to pretend the build is done, so I know where to actually weld the link tabs. Do most people just go where the front perches for the leaves used to be?
The old land rover defender, range rover classic and discovery 1 all used a wish bone 3 link. They always have issues with the ballpoint on the wish bone link to the axle wearing out quickly or with to much flex the boot rips. The mounts to the chassis would also be prone to rust one some models.
I had a long radius-arm setup in front. Gnarly flex.
But the vehicle eventually developed a terrifying death-wobble.
I'm now wondering if I needed to replace all of my bushings. They visually looked good, but were probably pushing 4 years old at the time. I never realized the bushings are a frequent wear item for radius-arm suspension. Thanks for enlightening me.
Amazing video 🔝🔝 can you do it something similar but with leaf spring? Spoa or not spoa for example.
Simple, Leaf springs is the best.
🤣
Leaf springs are for poor people. 😉🤣
Go leaf or go home lol
Yj for life
Leafs all the way. Simple is better
Hi Nate, love your videos. After im finally able to sell my jk im wanting to get a 93 yj. Id like to do some custom stuff on it and practice my welding and eventually build my rig. My question is, would it be better to keep leafs if im going 35s or maybe 37s or could upgrading to a link suspension be more beneficial that leafs?
Semi "Trangulated" ? 😉
Thanks for the great information !
We put a watts link on an 86 monte carlo at our shop, mini tubed the rear and raised the floors 2 inches...she lays frame now. Now we just have to put and engine and transmisison in it😂😂😂 hopefully we finish it in the next decade, because it started a decade ago.
Enjoy your videos buddy
There is some goodies in this video. It would be nice to see the rear axel from RR (not a rolls royal but range rover)
The arm lengths in a 4-link system have a purpose as well. But I'm well satisficed with your info
Nate, what’s your opinion on the 3 link rear suspensions people are doing on the JK/JL now, With the third link going directly above the driveshaft down to the top of the axle housing/truss? I’m building a JK on tons and 40s and I’m contemplating doing that setup strictly so I don’t have to go to a fuel cell or something since the JK fuel tank is right in the way.