Hi, as a 9-to-5 paper-pusher, you and five other TH-camrs have helped me fixed my Maytag Atlantis dryer. I wanted to thank you guys for your very informative video. So... thanks. LOL. I replaced the solenoids to fix the problem.
As a dryer repairman, this video has lowered my income by many thousands and basically put me out of a job. My kids haven't eaten in 3 days and my wife left me for the plumber. I've had to resort to selling Kirby vacuums door to door but everyone already has a Dyson or a Shark. I took on a newspaper delivery route, that seemed to help with gas money. The good news is that thanks to this video I was able to fix my own dryer. I never thought to check the thermostat.
To encourage more videos like this I ALWAYS buy from companies that provide videos like this even if the price is higher than their competitor (and RepairClinic is usually same or cheaper)
thank you! after working on my dryer issue for several days, this video finally nailed down the culprit. now it's an easy $10 fix rather than a brand new dryer!
Thanks for taking the time to post your very clear, concise, and useful video. The use of both types of multi-meters adds value to an already excellent presentation.
Have you cleaned your vents? The high limit thermostat turning off the heat means your dryer is getting too hot. I would recommend using the repair help section of our website (link in the description) using your dryer's model number. This will give you some ideas of what is causing your problem.
mine shows 00.2 reading at the lowest "200" . Is it faulty or not the problem with my oven it takes a long time to cook the food then it should be, I checked the grill element and the another element that attached with the fan both work fine so I though my problem with thermostat.
I would suggest using the repair help section of our website (link in the description). If you enter your model number there you'll have access to model, part, and symptom specific repair help. It will give you a few more things to check.
I have watched your video and find it helpful , thank you. However, I have tested all the thermostats, which are fine and the element also shows a reading above 20 ohms, I have placed the meter across the element terminals to read Voltage and switched the dryer on, I should in theory be able to see the voltage at the element Right ? I am not getting anything and the timer and motor are working properly, so what can now be the problem, ? Could it be the connections on the timer ? BTW, I hot wired the element direct to the mains, and it heated up, so it does work. HELP please. !
Does this hi-limit thermostat only open for a overheat fault condition? Or does it open and close under normal operation - i.e. it functions as a temperature regulator for the dryer? I thought the exhaust temp. thermistor was used to regulate the dryer temp with the dryer controller (computer)? My high temp cutoff has blown (350° F) and this hi-limit thermostat is set to open at 205° F. I replaced the high temp cutoff last week and the new one tripped again last weekend. My exhaust is not blocked - good airflow. Maybe my exhaust temp. thermistor is not giving the correct resistance to the dryer controller?
technically this information is correct but you can also fix the the thermostat by hitting the back of it hard enough to get it to close again. the thermostat being stuck open is the reason most of the time they do not work. as long as the thermostat is tested and gets continuity it should be a very cheap fix without having to purchase a new one. I would definitely replace the coils and clean the vent if the thermostat keeps popping.
On the dryer that I’m fixing the fuse doesn’t conduct electricity through it. But, when I by passed the fuse the motor turned on but then turned off in a couple seconds. Does that mean that I have a bad thermal fuse AND a bad motor?
Hello, I have a Frididaire crown FDEB34RGS1 that is getting VERY hot to the touch then shutting down. It won't restart for about 10 minutes. Any ideas what is wrong with it? -Checked heating coils and they are good. Many thanks in advance.
I have another question my condense dryer drys maby 2/10min max and than it goes off power totally heating works fine everyting exept that the dryer don't compleet the program. Can someone pleace replay thanks allot
Johny Bravo Dryers shutting off early is a pretty common problem. It can be a few different things. We recommend using the repair help section of our website using your dryer's model number. That page can be found here: www.RepairClinic.com/repairhelp
Another, perhaps risky repair short-cut that I have learned from a seasoned repairman, is how to reset the one-time Cut-off part number 8573713. This part is supposed to be normally closed. If it opens, and loses it's continuity, then a very hard toss against a concrete floor, can most times reset the concave washer inside. Throw it as hard as you are able, and with the flat surface of the sensor to contact the concrete. Test it again with your Multimeter. I have reset them several times, and with the aid of a hot skillet, and a wood stove thermometer, have found the sensors will trip to open as before. Naturally, I wouldn't recommend this to anyone, nor the placing of additional baffling as reported in my prior post.
SkyPilot Rookie If that fuse blows you are an air flow problem. On top of that the high limit thermostat has likely lost calibration if the fuse had to shut down the heater circuit.
That's interesting, and maybe as an emergency remedy to keep you out of the laundromat while you wait for a part to arrive in the mail, but the part is cheap and a possible fire in your laundry room is not.
Replaced the timer and it didn't make a difference. tested the thermostat and it tested okay. I looked down into the element and noticed a faint glow. Any thoughts? Can you test a timer?
My 5 year old Maytag gas dryer, MGDB400VQ0 has failed to heat about 6 times in the last 6 months, and all 6 times have been the result of a failed part number 8573713 Cut-Off sensor, located at the top of the flame tube. beside the High Limit Thermostat number 3391912. Prior to this last failure, I had replaced both thermostats, but the fix only lasted one month. For this last repair, right or wrong, I did a modification to the baffle/shield located at the end of the gas tube. The High Limit is designed to open at around 252 degrees, where as the Cut-off is designed to open at around 350 degrees. The HLimit will reset itself after a little cooling, then allow the machine to reheat as needed, but the Cut-off is a one time fuse. If it opens it will not close, and allow the machine to reheat. Somehow, the Cut-off would open, prior to the HLimit. The baffle/shield at the end of the gas tube is positioned in a manner that protects the HLimit from direct flame, but not so for the Cut-off. Flame would roll around the side of the baffle, and spill onto the Cut-off. This might explain why the Cut-off would open, prior to the HLimit opening, even though the designed temperature for the Cut-off is much higher than the HLimit. Utilizing a pre-drilled hole on the existing baffle, I attached another piece of sheet metal, 1/2" by 1.5 " to the existing baffle with a screw and nut. This gives the Cut-off nearly as much protection from the flame as the HLimit has. Perhaps a risky step to take, and opening up the possibility to overheat, but I hope if that does occur, the sensors in the blower housing will act as a second measure of safety, and shut the dryer down. Two loads of clothes have dried successfully. Any thoughts from others?
need help! i have a LG electric dryer model DLE2050W which is not heating at all. i checked the thermal fuse, high limit thermostat and rear high limit thermostat for continuity and they're all working fine.. i also checked the heat element assembly and the multimeter shows 40.7-42.3 does that means its not functioning or is it still good?
+Abniel Ivan Brown Rivera Yes. 40 ohms on a heating element is normal. Check the incoming power as the dyer can run on one leg of power, but not heat. The control board may have a defective heater relay.
+RepairClinic.com u guys are the bomb! totally right! income power was only 120 which is why everything was functioning except the heating system. thanks alot!
i change the heating element on the dsc85w still not heating up they say there is another thermostat.?.where is the front thermostat located ??cannot find.
I bought a replacement thermostat for my GE but the blades on the new thermostat are too wide (1'4") to fit into the female connectors on the wires leading to it (2/16"). Never had this issue before. Anything to do besides replacing the wire side female terminal connectors? Not easy to reach either.
If it tests good for continuity then it's in working order. The rattling is from the electrical contact moving inside the switch which is normal if you're shaking it.
What if you get ANYTHING above zero ohms? I have seen different info from different places. I even have a few new stats that show a different reading than zero. But I am not sure of these stats as I have had some trouble with the thermal cutoffs blowing when using these operating stats. I also have a new high limit stat that also shows different than zero ohms.
"Anything" meaning what? Make sure your meter probes and the lugs on the thermostat are really clean (as in, clean them with some very fine sandpaper, like 1000 grit), as that can cause a fraction of an ohm resistance. Think about it. It's nothing more than a switch that trips from temperature. It should not have any resistance at all, ideally, at low temperature. Even at 0.3 ohm, with a 30 amp load, that thermostat would drop something like 9 volts. That's a lot to lose just in a switch. Clean the probles and lugs. If it's still not, like .05 ohm or less, I'd replace it.
Thank you so much because I got new element and still dryer did not heat,I found your trick...and whola heated and glowed within seconds. I will share your page anytime.
I have a LG model DLE5977W that stopped heating up... I used your videos to help diagnose the problem and repaired it myself.... as in the video above my thermal fuse needed repairing... just to confirm I put in a jumper for test purposes and the heating element worked without any issues... after ordering the new thermal and installing it... everything worked as it should... however after a few operating cycles I found myself back at square one... seems the thermal has blown again... any help on chasing the cause down would be appreciated.... Thanks again for the videos,John
+moore2010214 Thermal fuses blow when you have an air flow problem. The most common cause is a clogged exhaust vent or the vent was not installed in an inefficient manner.
+RepairClinic.com the units have been stacked until just a few weeks ago.... it is possible that my hose is bent in suck a manner that it might be restricting flow.... ill see if I can come up with a solution and try again... thank you very much for your assistance
My digital multimeter when set to the lowest ohms setting reads "1" before testing. Once I put the leads to my thermostat it changes to .1-not sure exactly what this means. Should I assume it is faulty?
Michael Angelastro The thermostat contacts would be closed if you had a .1 reading. Even if it was .3 reading, it still would be considered as a closed circuit. It all depends on the meter and how good the probe is contacting the metal. Sometimes you can touch the probes lightly together and get a .3 reading and if you hold them together more tightly, you may get 0. You may not always get 0 resistance but as long as it’s close, you can consider the circuit closed. If you are checking an open circuit, your meter display will not change.
I have a Samsung model DV330AEBXAA dryer and replaced the high temperature thermostst and it has gone out after two loads. What else could be the problem?
We recommend that you look for a restricted vent or even a partially plugged lint screen. You might need to clean the lint screen with a brush and water. The other thing that can cause an overheat condition is a shorted heating element. A shorted element will keep part of the element heating even when the control tries to turn it off.
My Deut dryer heats but doesn't dry the clothes. The problem.isn't due to a clogged exhaust or bad blower fan. I've replaced the thermistor, but the problem persists. Is it possible that the high-limit thermostat is cutting out a too low a temperature, or too soon in general? How does one test this component for this sort of failure?
You're heating element could of failed too! What I like to do is start the dryer and see if i'm getting 240 volts at the heating element, If I get the voltage there it means everything else is electrically closed and the element is suspect. I further test the element for continuity!
When it shows 0.00 there is continuity, and if it shows a number and doesnt change then there is no continuity. Well mine is showing various changes, after i placed the needles on both sides of the thermal fuse it displays from 0.00 back to 1.11 then eventually back to 0.01, ect., does this mean there is continuity present or no?
Davitrieu This is late, but may be helpful - you may show some resistance, around .2 or .3. This is normal and shows that there is continuity as the part is providing measurable resistance - this looks to be a good part. If it sticks at the "1" on the left hand side, then the circuit is open. I just did this replacement on my dryer, and thank goodness it was this part and not the (discontinued) heating element!!
What is the resistor in series with the safety switches in a typical cheap mechanically timed GE dryer for? A few watts maybe, and 4.5k according to the drawings I can get. Appears to be for a holding current for what I assumed were internal heaters in these switches (keep them open until the cycle ends..?) but not...? Doesn't make much sense any other way for it to be there... Yet neither you nor the HVAC guys make any mention of a holding element in these things, and with the opens showing on the meters, kinda seals the deal... Yet #2; it's there regardless to do *something* lol What gives?
hi, i have a dryer that does not heat up, and I tested the High Limit Thermostat, thermal fuse and the heating element and all had continuity.I by-pass the wiring on the High Limit Thermostat and i got heat.... is the High Limit Thermostat worng? why has continuity?
Do all high temp thermostats work like this? My dryer heats once at start of cycle, then won't heat again for about an hour. At room temp, the high limit themostat reads ~14mega-ohms, then after that initial heat, switches to about 4 ohms. The dryer won't work until it switches back to the higher resistance. The igniter glows again, but no flames. Jumping the thermostat {just for diagnostic!} prevented the igniter from even trying to light.... which, I would think, if the dryer expected the thermostat to just be open wouldn't be the case. Any thoughts? Help me figure this one, you get my business forever.
DijitalPants This does not sound like a high limit thermostat problem; it's more likely that the gas valve coils are going bad. Any time you see the igniter glow bright orange and then go off WITHOUT a flame lighting, this is an indication of failing coils. You'll find our How it Works: Gas Dryer video to be helpful: th-cam.com/video/mcipN8bvpa0/w-d-xo.html
JorgeMDO Enter your dryer model number in our website's repair help section for model-specific troubleshooting and repair help information: www.repairclinic.com/repairhelp?TLSID=1773.
I have a Samsung model DV330AEBXAA dryer. It is seems to be stuck on low heat and is not really drying the clothes. I examined the heating element and the coils are a bit black but nothing broken. The inside the dryer was a bunch of lint on the motor, in the heating element, and clogged in the vent for the lint/exhaust. What else may be a suspect about the dryer on low heat and not really drying? Thanks.
Fred Flintstone Enter your dryer model number in our website's repair help for additional possible causes for that symptom: www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/Dryer-Repair-Help
My High Limit Thermostat passed the continuity test. But when testing (carefullly) during operation it prematurely shuts off the burner and the clothes don't heat. Interestingly enough I've seen many, many folks online who have problems with clothes not heating properly AND a timer not advancing. Hmm...
Hi, as a 9-to-5 paper-pusher, you and five other TH-camrs have helped me fixed my Maytag Atlantis dryer. I wanted to thank you guys for your very informative video. So... thanks. LOL. I replaced the solenoids to fix the problem.
As a dryer repairman, this video has lowered my income by many thousands and basically put me out of a job. My kids haven't eaten in 3 days and my wife left me for the plumber. I've had to resort to selling Kirby vacuums door to door but everyone already has a Dyson or a Shark. I took on a newspaper delivery route, that seemed to help with gas money. The good news is that thanks to this video I was able to fix my own dryer. I never thought to check the thermostat.
To encourage more videos like this I ALWAYS buy from companies that provide videos like this even if the price is higher than their competitor (and RepairClinic is usually same or cheaper)
We appreciate that. All of our parts are genuine OEM replacement parts, not aftermarket or used parts.
thank you! after working on my dryer issue for several days, this video finally nailed down the culprit. now it's an easy $10 fix rather than a brand new dryer!
Thanks for taking the time to post your very clear, concise, and useful video. The use of both types of multi-meters adds value to an already excellent presentation.
Rick Saffery Thanks!
Thank you. You save my Mom several dollars and helped me diagnose and fix here LG Dryer
Have you cleaned your vents? The high limit thermostat turning off the heat means your dryer is getting too hot. I would recommend using the repair help section of our website (link in the description) using your dryer's model number. This will give you some ideas of what is causing your problem.
UNCLEDOUG SAYS THANK YOU !!!! YOU JUST SAVED ME A BOAT LOAD !!!!!!!!!!
Awesome!
mine shows 00.2 reading at the lowest "200" . Is it faulty or not the problem with my oven it takes a long time to cook the food then it should be, I checked the grill element and the another element that attached with the fan both work fine so I though my problem with thermostat.
I would suggest using the repair help section of our website (link in the description). If you enter your model number there you'll have access to model, part, and symptom specific repair help. It will give you a few more things to check.
Finally got the right information thank you very much for everything you do.
I have watched your video and find it helpful , thank you. However, I have tested all the thermostats, which are fine and the element also shows a reading above 20 ohms, I have placed the meter across the element terminals to read Voltage and switched the dryer on, I should in theory be able to see the voltage at the element Right ? I am not getting anything and the timer and motor are working properly, so what can now be the problem, ? Could it be the connections on the timer ? BTW, I hot wired the element direct to the mains, and it heated up, so it does work. HELP please. !
Does this hi-limit thermostat only open for a overheat fault condition?
Or does it open and close under normal operation - i.e. it functions as a temperature regulator for the dryer?
I thought the exhaust temp. thermistor was used to regulate the dryer temp with the dryer controller (computer)?
My high temp cutoff has blown (350° F) and this hi-limit thermostat is set to open at 205° F.
I replaced the high temp cutoff last week and the new one tripped again last weekend.
My exhaust is not blocked - good airflow.
Maybe my exhaust temp. thermistor is not giving the correct resistance to the dryer controller?
Useful video, great value. It helps me to solve a problem fast. Thanks a lot from Mexico.
technically this information is correct but you can also fix the the thermostat by hitting the back of it hard enough to get it to close again. the thermostat being stuck open is the reason most of the time they do not work. as long as the thermostat is tested and gets continuity it should be a very cheap fix without having to purchase a new one. I would definitely replace the coils and clean the vent if the thermostat keeps popping.
what if their are four prongs? the outside prongs have continuitiy but the middle two don't--what does this mean?
On the dryer that I’m fixing the fuse doesn’t conduct electricity through it. But, when I by passed the fuse the motor turned on but then turned off in a couple seconds. Does that mean that I have a bad thermal fuse AND a bad motor?
can you tell me about the reset thermal switch used on stremer? how works???
Hello,
I have a Frididaire crown FDEB34RGS1 that is getting VERY hot to the touch then shutting down. It won't restart for about 10 minutes. Any ideas what is wrong with it?
-Checked heating coils and they are good.
Many thanks in advance.
I have another question my condense dryer drys maby 2/10min max and than it goes off power totally heating works fine everyting exept that the dryer don't compleet the program. Can someone pleace replay thanks allot
Johny Bravo Dryers shutting off early is a pretty common problem. It can be a few different things. We recommend using the repair help section of our website using your dryer's model number. That page can be found here: www.RepairClinic.com/repairhelp
Another, perhaps risky repair short-cut that I have learned from a seasoned repairman, is how to reset the one-time Cut-off part number 8573713. This part is supposed to be normally closed. If it opens, and loses it's continuity, then a very hard toss against a concrete floor, can most times reset the concave washer inside. Throw it as hard as you are able, and with the flat surface of the sensor to contact the concrete. Test it again with your Multimeter. I have reset them several times, and with the aid of a hot skillet, and a wood stove thermometer, have found the sensors will trip to open as before. Naturally, I wouldn't recommend this to anyone, nor the placing of additional baffling as reported in my prior post.
SkyPilot Rookie If that fuse blows you are an air flow problem. On top of that the high limit thermostat has likely lost calibration if the fuse had to shut down the heater circuit.
That's interesting, and maybe as an emergency remedy to keep you out of the laundromat while you wait for a part to arrive in the mail, but the part is cheap and a possible fire in your laundry room is not.
I cannot seem to get either wire connected to the thermostat off, they are stuck. What am I doing wrong. Tried to pull both off by hand
Replaced the timer and it didn't make a difference. tested the thermostat and it tested okay. I looked down into the element and noticed a faint glow. Any thoughts? Can you test a timer?
two of my thermostats on my dryer read .3 ohms but the third reads 21 ohms. Does that need to be replaced?
Yup. A fraction of an ohm is normal. Heck, your probes and the lugs on the device can be dirty enough to cause that. But 21 - no way.
The L260-70F mens Temperature Limits for switching ON/OFF the heater ??
My 5 year old Maytag gas dryer, MGDB400VQ0 has failed to heat about 6 times in the last 6 months, and all 6 times have been the result of a failed part number 8573713 Cut-Off sensor, located at the top of the flame tube. beside the High Limit Thermostat number 3391912. Prior to this last failure, I had replaced both thermostats, but the fix only lasted one month. For this last repair, right or wrong, I did a modification to the baffle/shield located at the end of the gas tube. The High Limit is designed to open at around 252 degrees, where as the Cut-off is designed to open at around 350 degrees. The HLimit will reset itself after a little cooling, then allow the machine to reheat as needed, but the Cut-off is a one time fuse. If it opens it will not close, and allow the machine to reheat. Somehow, the Cut-off would open, prior to the HLimit. The baffle/shield at the end of the gas tube is positioned in a manner that protects the HLimit from direct flame, but not so for the Cut-off. Flame would roll around the side of the baffle, and spill onto the Cut-off. This might explain why the Cut-off would open, prior to the HLimit opening, even though the designed temperature for the Cut-off is much higher than the HLimit. Utilizing a pre-drilled hole on the existing baffle, I attached another piece of sheet metal, 1/2" by 1.5 " to the existing baffle with a screw and nut. This gives the Cut-off nearly as much protection from the flame as the HLimit has. Perhaps a risky step to take, and opening up the possibility to overheat, but I hope if that does occur, the sensors in the blower housing will act as a second measure of safety, and shut the dryer down. Two loads of clothes have dried successfully. Any thoughts from others?
SkyPilot Rookie Poor air flow caused by a clogged exhaust vent is the most common cause of this type of issue.
need help! i have a LG electric dryer model DLE2050W which is not heating at all. i checked the thermal fuse, high limit thermostat and rear high limit thermostat for continuity and they're all working fine.. i also checked the heat element assembly and the multimeter shows 40.7-42.3 does that means its not functioning or is it still good?
+Abniel Ivan Brown Rivera Yes. 40 ohms on a heating element is normal. Check the incoming power as the dyer can run on one leg of power, but not heat. The control board may have a defective heater relay.
+RepairClinic.com u guys are the bomb! totally right! income power was only 120 which is why everything was functioning except the heating system. thanks alot!
i change the heating element on the dsc85w still not heating up they say there is another thermostat.?.where is the front thermostat located ??cannot find.
That model number appears to be incomplete. Can you please check it again?
when you change the heater element do you have to change the termostat
Helmuth Montoya No, you do not.
I bought a replacement thermostat for my GE but the blades on the new thermostat are too wide (1'4") to fit into the female connectors on the wires leading to it (2/16"). Never had this issue before. Anything to do besides replacing the wire side female terminal connectors?
Not easy to reach either.
I meant to type 1/4" and 3/16"
Whirlpool dryer f06 error what's problem tell me what.
If it tests good for continuity then it's in working order. The rattling is from the electrical contact moving inside the switch which is normal if you're shaking it.
So if it’s zero or moves it’s good? I’m not making sense of this…
What if you get ANYTHING above zero ohms? I have seen different info from different places. I even have a few new stats that show a different reading than zero. But I am not sure of these stats as I have had some trouble with the thermal cutoffs blowing when using these operating stats. I also have a new high limit stat that also shows different than zero ohms.
"Anything" meaning what? Make sure your meter probes and the lugs on the thermostat are really clean (as in, clean them with some very fine sandpaper, like 1000 grit), as that can cause a fraction of an ohm resistance. Think about it. It's nothing more than a switch that trips from temperature. It should not have any resistance at all, ideally, at low temperature. Even at 0.3 ohm, with a 30 amp load, that thermostat would drop something like 9 volts. That's a lot to lose just in a switch. Clean the probles and lugs. If it's still not, like .05 ohm or less, I'd replace it.
Thank you so much because I got new element and still dryer did not heat,I found your trick...and whola heated and glowed within seconds. I will share your page anytime.
I have a LG model DLE5977W that stopped heating up... I used your videos to help diagnose the problem and repaired it myself.... as in the video above my thermal fuse needed repairing... just to confirm I put in a jumper for test purposes and the heating element worked without any issues... after ordering the new thermal and installing it... everything worked as it should... however after a few operating cycles I found myself back at square one... seems the thermal has blown again... any help on chasing the cause down would be appreciated.... Thanks again for the videos,John
+moore2010214 Thermal fuses blow when you have an air flow problem. The most common cause is a clogged exhaust vent or the vent was not installed in an inefficient manner.
+RepairClinic.com the units have been stacked until just a few weeks ago.... it is possible that my hose is bent in suck a manner that it might be restricting flow.... ill see if I can come up with a solution and try again... thank you very much for your assistance
+RepairClinic.com hey how can you check the zero error in the digital ohmmeter and correct it?
Will the dryer power on if the high limit fuse is broken?
Is it supposed to make a noise when you shake it?
ArmyBoy057 yes it will still work. That’s just to do with the heating
The needle supposed to move all the way up to zero what did they just moves halfway showing I guess some resistance
My digital multimeter when set to the lowest ohms setting reads "1" before testing. Once I put the leads to my thermostat it changes to .1-not sure exactly what this means. Should I assume it is faulty?
Michael Angelastro The thermostat contacts would be closed if you had a .1 reading. Even if it was .3 reading, it still would be considered as a closed circuit. It all depends on the meter and how good the probe is contacting the metal. Sometimes you can touch the probes lightly together and get a .3 reading and if you hold them together more tightly, you may get 0. You may not always get 0 resistance but as long as it’s close, you can consider the circuit closed. If you are checking an open circuit, your meter display will not change.
I have a Samsung model DV330AEBXAA dryer and replaced the high temperature thermostst and it has gone out after two loads. What else could be the problem?
We recommend that you look for a restricted vent or even a partially plugged lint screen. You might need to clean the lint screen with a brush and water. The other thing that can cause an overheat condition is a shorted heating element. A shorted element will keep part of the element heating even when the control tries to turn it off.
Tengo una secadora general electric modelo GD65EB y no está calentando que podría ser
I change thermostat. fuse. coils. flame sensor. flame ingintor. timer. Still no hear or flame.??? any suggestions.
My Deut dryer heats but doesn't dry the clothes. The problem.isn't due to a clogged exhaust or bad blower fan. I've replaced the thermistor, but the problem persists. Is it possible that the high-limit thermostat is cutting out a too low a temperature, or too soon in general? How does one test this component for this sort of failure?
You're heating element could of failed too! What I like to do is start the dryer and see if i'm getting 240 volts at the heating element, If I get the voltage there it means everything else is electrically closed and the element is suspect. I further test the element for continuity!
When it shows 0.00 there is continuity, and if it shows a number and doesnt change then there is no continuity. Well mine is showing various changes, after i placed the needles on both sides of the thermal fuse it displays from 0.00 back to 1.11 then eventually back to 0.01, ect., does this mean there is continuity present or no?
Davitrieu This is late, but may be helpful - you may show some resistance, around .2 or .3. This is normal and shows that there is continuity as the part is providing measurable resistance - this looks to be a good part. If it sticks at the "1" on the left hand side, then the circuit is open.
I just did this replacement on my dryer, and thank goodness it was this part and not the (discontinued) heating element!!
This may be late rich1285 but this was the answer to my question. Both read .3 and was not sure if that was good or bad. Thanks from the future.
What is the resistor in series with the safety switches in a typical cheap mechanically timed GE dryer for? A few watts maybe, and 4.5k according to the drawings I can get.
Appears to be for a holding current for what I assumed were internal heaters in these switches (keep them open until the cycle ends..?) but not...?
Doesn't make much sense any other way for it to be there... Yet neither you nor the HVAC guys make any mention of a holding element in these things, and with the opens showing on the meters, kinda seals the deal... Yet #2; it's there regardless to do *something* lol
What gives?
My thermostat shaking inside of metal what does it means?
hi, i have a dryer that does not heat up, and I tested the High Limit Thermostat, thermal fuse and the heating element and all had continuity.I by-pass the wiring on the High Limit Thermostat and i got heat.... is the High Limit Thermostat worng? why has continuity?
+8xxbryanxx8 Something does not add up there. If you have heat when bypassing the thermostat it should not have continuity.
Did you ever figure out why the dryer was not heating? Bypassing the thermostat and then got heat, it seems like the thermostat was faulty.
I had continuity on the thermostat but it would not stop continuity when heated on a frying pan.
How do I know if the thermostat has switched off?
Do all high temp thermostats work like this? My dryer heats once at start of cycle, then won't heat again for about an hour. At room temp, the high limit themostat reads ~14mega-ohms, then after that initial heat, switches to about 4 ohms. The dryer won't work until it switches back to the higher resistance. The igniter glows again, but no flames. Jumping the thermostat {just for diagnostic!} prevented the igniter from even trying to light.... which, I would think, if the dryer expected the thermostat to just be open wouldn't be the case.
Any thoughts?
Help me figure this one, you get my business forever.
DijitalPants This does not sound like a high limit thermostat problem; it's more likely that the gas valve coils are going bad. Any time you see the igniter glow bright orange and then go off WITHOUT a flame lighting, this is an indication of failing coils. You'll find our How it Works: Gas Dryer video to be helpful: th-cam.com/video/mcipN8bvpa0/w-d-xo.html
Thanks!
What if your only getting one heat setting?
Very good boss
What if my thermostat is reading 1.5 at room temperature
Thank you!
My gas dryer will stay hot for 5 min or less. I do see fire. But then it gets cool and the flame is out. What could be the problem
JorgeMDO what did you do ?
JorgeMDO Enter your dryer model number in our website's repair help section for model-specific troubleshooting and repair help information: www.repairclinic.com/repairhelp?TLSID=1773.
RepairClinic.com DV448AEW
RepairClinic.com tvm63x
RepairClinic.com ut075nqtb1g1w01
exellent tutorial
+easybullet3 Thanks
I have a Samsung model DV330AEBXAA dryer. It is seems to be stuck on low heat and is not really drying the clothes. I examined the heating element and the coils are a bit black but nothing broken. The inside the dryer was a bunch of lint on the motor, in the heating element, and clogged in the vent for the lint/exhaust. What else may be a suspect about the dryer on low heat and not really drying? Thanks.
Fred Flintstone Enter your dryer model number in our website's repair help for additional possible causes for that symptom: www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/Dryer-Repair-Help
Your vent is clogged.
Replaced High Limit Thermostat and dryer works like a charm. Even the timer is working now!? :-/
Please help my dryer take 3 cycle to get clothes dry
My dryer not working
+Kunal Shah www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/Dryer-Repair-Help?TLSID=1773
M
You’ve shown 2 kinds not just high temp.
My High Limit Thermostat passed the continuity test. But when testing (carefullly) during operation it prematurely shuts off the burner and the clothes don't heat.
Interestingly enough I've seen many, many folks online who have problems with clothes not heating properly AND a timer not advancing. Hmm...
Why is low heat thermostat so much more costly than high heat
Hi
looks like i need to band harder
Why is the video so skinny I can't see anything!!! Please fix this so I can use the video.
Great