This is the exact video I needed. But your video was so dark, it's almost useless. But thanx for the effort. (And if you had a Glenwood coal stove, it wouldn't take so long to heat. )
A lighter or candle would heat it up quicker. I had the window blocked off where people couldn't see in, I didn't want curtains or a blind close to the stove and the material I used blocked all the light from that window. I didn't realize how dark the video was until now.
I have a weird situation with this dryer now. Back during this video I thought I had a bad thermostat that was causing the timer to not advance. It was a leak in the drum seals and the heat was escaping and the thermostat wasn't detecting the hot temperature as the clothes dry, therefore not advancing the timer. So in my case it wasn't a bad thermostat. Im still using this dryer today. I was away from my place for about a year and came back and was using it again and I noticed it was getting incredibly hot (seemingly more than it should) in the drum, so much so I thought it was going to catch the clothes on fire. I have my dryer outside on a porch and i wondered if a mouse or squirrel built a nest in it so I took the cabinet off and checked where the heating element is and it was as clean as a whistle. So now Im having trouble finding what is causing it to get that hot. Leaning towards one of the sensors.
I also had no reading on the inside and outside prongs after heating the thermostat. Bought a new one and tested before installing. I got the same result on the new part. I'm assuming the new part is defective as well? I'm not an electrician or handyman and don't know for sure. Any help is appreciated and thank you for this video. It has helped me a lot.
While cool, two furthest (Closed circuit) should have had a reading. When it heats up two furthest are open (no reading on meter), at that time two closest should have had a reading at .
Hi Matt, thanks for your video. I did a continuity test on my GE cycling thermostat earlier and I got a reading of 1.7. Are you confident that the thermostat is bad? Thanks
Thanks Matt...doing mine NOW so the 2 furthest apart show zero...so it's good then I heated it up hear the CLICK then test it while is HOT and get no reading so it is bad RIGHT...thanks for the UPLOAD...i subscribe I think we could get you up to big numbers...GREAT JOB
Sorry, just now seen your message, When you heat it up and it clicks the 2 furthest are an open circuit, it will not show anything on the meter, during that time the other two prongs (closest ones) should show continuity until it clicks after cooling down.. Its like a relay and alternates the circuit, it would be one set or the other, can't be both at the same time.
This is the exact video I needed. But your video was so dark, it's almost useless. But thanx for the effort.
(And if you had a Glenwood coal stove, it wouldn't take so long to heat. )
A lighter or candle would heat it up quicker. I had the window blocked off where people couldn't see in, I didn't want curtains or a blind close to the stove and the material I used blocked all the light from that window. I didn't realize how dark the video was until now.
Make sure your vents are clean. I thought my heating element was out on my very old dryer & the vents were just clogged up. She's drying now
I have a weird situation with this dryer now. Back during this video I thought I had a bad thermostat that was causing the timer to not advance. It was a leak in the drum seals and the heat was escaping and the thermostat wasn't detecting the hot temperature as the clothes dry, therefore not advancing the timer. So in my case it wasn't a bad thermostat. Im still using this dryer today. I was away from my place for about a year and came back and was using it again and I noticed it was getting incredibly hot (seemingly more than it should) in the drum, so much so I thought it was going to catch the clothes on fire. I have my dryer outside on a porch and i wondered if a mouse or squirrel built a nest in it so I took the cabinet off and checked where the heating element is and it was as clean as a whistle. So now Im having trouble finding what is causing it to get that hot. Leaning towards one of the sensors.
I also had no reading on the inside and outside prongs after heating the thermostat. Bought a new one and tested before installing. I got the same result on the new part. I'm assuming the new part is defective as well? I'm not an electrician or handyman and don't know for sure. Any help is appreciated and thank you for this video. It has helped me a lot.
While cool, two furthest (Closed circuit) should have had a reading. When it heats up two furthest are open (no reading on meter), at that time two closest should have had a reading at .
Hi Matt, thanks for your video. I did a continuity test on my GE cycling thermostat earlier and I got a reading of 1.7. Are you confident that the thermostat is bad? Thanks
Thanks Matt...doing mine NOW so the 2 furthest apart show zero...so it's good then I heated it up hear the CLICK then test it while is HOT and get no reading so it is bad RIGHT...thanks for the UPLOAD...i subscribe I think we could get you up to big numbers...GREAT JOB
Sorry, just now seen your message, When you heat it up and it clicks the 2 furthest are an open circuit, it will not show anything on the meter, during that time the other two prongs (closest ones) should show continuity until it clicks after cooling down.. Its like a relay and alternates the circuit, it would be one set or the other, can't be both at the same time.
In a pinch you can use a bic lighter. Hold it a few itches below it so you don't overheat it.
Good tip, never crossed my mind to try that..lol
too dark