Dear god! I’ve literally spent 4 days and probably 18 hours of various YT tutorials to the point I almost completely dissembled my dryer and I was literally minutes away from just ripping out my entire heating element when I came across your SIMPLE straightforward video and I finally figured out what the problem was!! WOW! My prayers were answered! Thank you 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
The best do it yourself channel! Gets right to the point, no ½ hr - 1 hr+ movie tutorial and covers both types multimeters. You give the ohm range that we need to look for, no guessing. Thank you 😊👍.
thank you for this video. I did not know how to use my digital meter to find out what part was bad. With the help of this video i determined that my heating element was bad not my thermostat. Thanks again, this helped save me a ton of money and time. God Bless!
Hi Ryan. My old 220v dryer needed a new htg element (IRCA Mod 90-13784.01, 2500/2750 w). It has 3 wires: red-white-black. I get cont btw white-black, but not btw white-red. Thermostat terminals do have cont. Q: do i have one bad circuit on the new element? Or am i understanding this incorrectly? Thanks! Jeff
Hi I like to know what you can recommend my dryer to not heat it runs but no heat I installed new Thurman the flat one keeps popping end up with a new one I checked every thermostat for homes and they're all good either way I store the heating coil heats up halfway and I checked on for that and it's good I do not know what to do else should I replace the coil new one I'll be waiting for response thank you
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Great video, thank you! I have discovered that my high limit thermostat is blown so will fix that. On testing also found that my heating element is black from heat but still conducts when tested. Is there any benefit to me installing a new heating element if old one is not blown?
Blackening on the metal is normal. But if the metal is warped, cracked, or damaged then the element may be overheating and the element may need to be replaced the you will need to look into why the element is overheating.
Great video thank you! We are getting an audible beep between common and other coil and no been between common and the other coil. The one we get beeps from says 14 ohms and the one with no beeps gets 34 ohms. We are using a fluke 337 meter. Is our heating coils good? We did test our thermostat bad and just want to make sure this part is good before we put back together. Plus we can’t find just the heating coil anywhere.
On the Fluke 337 it will only beep for continuity if it is 30ohms or less. Since one of your element coils is 34 ohms that will be too high for it to beep for continuity. It sounds like the element is good from what you have described.
It should have resistance, depending on the multimeter it may beep or it might be outside of the beeping range. Example resistance values below. COM & terminal 1 = 15 - 25 Ω COM & terminal 2 = 15 - 25 Ω Terminals 1 & 2 = 30 - 50 Ω
You will need to find the common wire terminal like we show at 1:37 in the video. Then test from the common terminal to each of the separate coils on the element.
@@kareemsharonsmith9020 It sounds like the element is good from what you are describing. Make sure to check for any shorts in the element like we show in the video as well.
A black dryer heating element usually indicates the element has overheated and gotten too hot. Often times when they turn black you will also see some of the metal start to crack and warp. If you see this it is usually a good idea to replace the heating element and also address at the same time why the dryer was overheating.
My Amana gas dryer has been overheating and smells like it’s burning. Referring to this great video, we tested the thermal fuse for continuity and found that it’s blown. We still don’t know why. Is it possible the thermal fuse just went bad on it’s own? All other tests were fine - no lint blockage, felt seal is good, drum and blower spin without issue, lint trap wasn’t waxed over, igniter seems to be working. Just a blown thermal fuse. Am I missing something? Thanks for any help! Liked and subscribed.
@@PartsDr I see now from the video it was the cycling thermostat that went bad. We also checked the two thermal fuses and they were fine. We replaced the thermostat and the thermal fuse closest to it and then tested the dryer. It overheated again and the thermostat failed the multimeter test afterwards. Could this be because we didn't slot the thermostat in properly and didn't put the back panel on? I'm assuming this was the problem and the thermostat couldn't properly sense the temperature. We have ordered the part from Parts Dr and will try again. Thank you!
They are typically not sold separately. In the few occasions that we have seen them sold separately they are usually quite expensive. From what we typically see it is usually most cost effective to replace the heating element assembly, although there are a few exceptions to this.
Wow thanks for the fast reply, such a shame i really only needed them, i found beads, rods, but not these stands/clips. Any idea how exactly they are called ? i tried lots of words and i cant find them. Thanks again.
Most commonly, if those are good then it could be a bad main control board, bad motor, or bad power supply to the dryer (check the power at the outlet and inspect for burned or broken wires at the terminal block).
My heating element tuns red in few minutes but only stays red for about few seconds and then after like 20 min it turns red for a few seconds. I see very thing is working with my multimeter test
You will need to read the owners manual for your multimeter. It might be normal for yours not to display an ohm reading on the continuity setting on your meter.
In a dual coil heating element, do the ohms reading need to be same? I am getting one 13 and other 37. Also, can I use single coil heating element instead of dual coil one? If so, how can I do that? I have Samsung DV42H5600EP/A3.
I tapped off one wire and used single coil which works fine so far. I am not able to find the replacement part. Can you please see if you can find it? It is samsung dryer model no. DV42H5600EP/A3. Replacement part number that is required is DC47-00032A. I have put in DC47-00019A which is working now.
"Continuity" can be thought of as testing for a "continuous" wire with no breaks. in this case the heating element is a long wire coiled up. When you put the meter on the "continuity" setting, that means you want the meter to test that the heating element is a continuous wire, that is, it has no break in it. Testing a light bulb would be similar. The meter will pass a voltage out of the red lead of the meter, and look for that voltage to return on the black lead of the meter. if it sees the voltage coming back on the black lead, then it knows the heating element (or any circuit) has "continuity," that is, is acting like a continuous wire that can carry electricity from one input lug all the way to the other. If it sees that, then it sounds a beep so that you know there is continuity and you don't have to bother looking at the meter. In this case, continuity would mean the heating element is good. If you don't hear the beep, it means that the heating element wire is broken somewhere and therefore it's bad, it's burned out like a light bulb. If your meter doesn't have a continuity setting, not all do, then you use the "ohms" aka "resistance" setting. If a circuit has continuity, you would get a reading, sometimes zero ohms, sometimes a low number like 10 ohms, sometimes a high number depending on what kind of circuit or device you are testing, but you will get some reading. If it does not have continuity, then the meter will read "infinite resistance," meaning no continuity. There, now anyone that has read me comment knows all about the subject.
Ever seen a Kenmore heating coil that has 120 volts to both legs, the correct resistance, and still won't heat? All the insulators for the coil are intact.
Namey McName , make sure youre getting 220v at the heating element, if you only get 120v it wont heat. you need to measure both incoming wires to heating element you must get 110v from each one, if you dont get 220v when measuring between the 2 of them something elese is wrong
Yes, both are getting 110 volts when measured between the connector and the ground. I am waiting on one more part, and I'll write you back if I have success. But all of the heating system parts have been replaced at least once. I ordered a new heater relay to ensure a solid connection at the circuit board.
Namey McName you have to measure between both wire terminals at the element at the same time. you should get 220v between them when dryer is running LIVE TEST. Get youre multitester set it on AC and test between both terminals with the Dryer running on a heating cycle, you should get 220v . If you only get 120v ,that means youre not getting power from one leg. It wont heat if you only get 110v to the element.
Dear god! I’ve literally spent 4 days and probably 18 hours of various YT tutorials to the point I almost completely dissembled my dryer and I was literally minutes away from just ripping out my entire heating element when I came across your SIMPLE straightforward video and I finally figured out what the problem was!! WOW! My prayers were answered! Thank you 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
We are happy that we could help! 🙂
The best do it yourself channel!
Gets right to the point, no ½ hr - 1 hr+ movie tutorial and covers both types multimeters. You give the ohm range that we need to look for, no guessing.
Thank you 😊👍.
Thank you! We are glad you found it helpful!
thank you for this video. I did not know how to use my digital meter to find out what part was bad. With the help of this video i determined that my heating element was bad not my thermostat. Thanks again, this helped save me a ton of money and time. God Bless!
Awesome!
Me too, I like this guy!
Thank you. Never thought of testing the heating coil element, until I sent to your site.
We are glad you found it helpful!
Excellent instruction and illustration of multimeter. very easy to diagnose bad element
Great to hear! Glad you found it helpful!
Thanks for the video, I was able to determine that one of the elements in my heating element was bad, going to buy a new heating element from you now!
Great to hear! Thank you!
Wasn’t sure how to test this particular type of part, thank you!
You're welcome!!!
Hi Ryan. My old 220v dryer needed a new htg element (IRCA Mod 90-13784.01, 2500/2750 w). It has 3 wires: red-white-black. I get cont btw white-black, but not btw white-red. Thermostat terminals do have cont. Q: do i have one bad circuit on the new element? Or am i understanding this incorrectly? Thanks! Jeff
Hi I like to know what you can recommend my dryer to not heat it runs but no heat I installed new Thurman the flat one keeps popping end up with a new one I checked every thermostat for homes and they're all good either way I store the heating coil heats up halfway and I checked on for that and it's good I do not know what to do else should I replace the coil new one I'll be waiting for response thank you
77s7777777777777777777777 II 7777777s777777777777777xgxzuz7x7xuu7698z4 xxx xxx b. Csx 0c . jn. C. Xxxx. Zzz cdzz. Xxx aAs I. 4Ax5D6s6776x th. U yf ccf76f7hdy c c. Rd art txt. G vvgg. C huff. V yt? x77yyt. Zzz Zzz xxxgg fyy78uy c gvvvgvggggg fs thug ggggggggggc. xgggggggggggg. Xxxghssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssxsssssssssssssssssssssssssssssxssssssxssssssssssssssssssssssssssxzszzssz . cc. Uuuu uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuhhhhhhhhh h hh. Hx6 gusty dzxs0dfjvu8
Great video, thank you! I have discovered that my high limit thermostat is blown so will fix that. On testing also found that my heating element is black from heat but still conducts when tested. Is there any benefit to me installing a new heating element if old one is not blown?
It should still work okay, but it make have a shorter life span. Make sure to find and correct your airflow problem.
It it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Thank you! This was super helpful
We are glad you found it helpful!
Should a heating element have blackening underneath the coils on the metal plate?
Blackening on the metal is normal. But if the metal is warped, cracked, or damaged then the element may be overheating and the element may need to be replaced the you will need to look into why the element is overheating.
@ the 2:43 min testing for short the terminal and the outside housing…. Am I supposed to get continuity??
No, you do not want to have continuity between the element and the outside housing as that indicates a shorted element.
Great video thank you! We are getting an audible beep between common and other coil and no been between common and the other coil. The one we get beeps from says 14 ohms and the one with no beeps gets 34 ohms. We are using a fluke 337 meter. Is our heating coils good? We did test our thermostat bad and just want to make sure this part is good before we put back together. Plus we can’t find just the heating coil anywhere.
On the Fluke 337 it will only beep for continuity if it is 30ohms or less. Since one of your element coils is 34 ohms that will be too high for it to beep for continuity. It sounds like the element is good from what you have described.
Parts Dr awesome thank you very much for the quick reply!
@@Slambone77 You're welcome!
If you touch the 2 red marked coils together should it beep?
It should have resistance, depending on the multimeter it may beep or it might be outside of the beeping range. Example resistance values below.
COM & terminal 1 = 15 - 25 Ω
COM & terminal 2 = 15 - 25 Ω
Terminals 1 & 2 = 30 - 50 Ω
@ the 2:43 min when placing one terminal outside the housing and the other at the terminal should have continuity as well????
My dryer has multi coils and my blue and yellow wires are having continuity, do I need a new heating element?
You will need to find the common wire terminal like we show at 1:37 in the video. Then test from the common terminal to each of the separate coils on the element.
@@PartsDr my common terminal has continuity to both of the others as well
@@kareemsharonsmith9020 It sounds like the element is good from what you are describing. Make sure to check for any shorts in the element like we show in the video as well.
do the wire clips need to be disconnected? there is one I am unable to get off...
Yes to get an accurate reading you need to disconnect the wires. Try wiggling the connector off with a needle nose pliers.
Would this test work on an electric heating blanket?
The heating coil of the electric blanket should be able to be tested. You may have to test it for ohms instead of continuity.
Does the color of the element make a difference? Mine has turned black. Would that indicate it being burned out?
A black dryer heating element usually indicates the element has overheated and gotten too hot. Often times when they turn black you will also see some of the metal start to crack and warp. If you see this it is usually a good idea to replace the heating element and also address at the same time why the dryer was overheating.
My Amana gas dryer has been overheating and smells like it’s burning. Referring to this great video, we tested the thermal fuse for continuity and found that it’s blown.
We still don’t know why. Is it possible the thermal fuse just went bad on it’s own?
All other tests were fine - no lint blockage, felt seal is good, drum and blower spin without issue, lint trap wasn’t waxed over, igniter seems to be working.
Just a blown thermal fuse.
Am I missing something? Thanks for any help!
Liked and subscribed.
What is the model number of the dryer and which part number is the fuse that is blowing?
Amana gas dryer:
Model number - NGD4655EW2
Part number 3387134 661512
Thank you!
@@twotentsdown 3387134 is not a fuse. Watch this video to learn more about that part here: th-cam.com/video/k6CjW-jMOFU/w-d-xo.html
@@PartsDr I see now from the video it was the cycling thermostat that went bad. We also checked the two thermal fuses and they were fine.
We replaced the thermostat and the thermal fuse closest to it and then tested the dryer. It overheated again and the thermostat failed the multimeter test afterwards. Could this be because we didn't slot the thermostat in properly and didn't put the back panel on? I'm assuming this was the problem and the thermostat couldn't properly sense the temperature.
We have ordered the part from Parts Dr and will try again.
Thank you!
@@twotentsdown When you replaced this part the first time, did you replace it with a Whirlpool brand part or and aftermarket?
Hello just found your video, do you know where i can find the ceramic insulator standoffs ? i d like to buy some in bulk to repair an element.
They are typically not sold separately. In the few occasions that we have seen them sold separately they are usually quite expensive. From what we typically see it is usually most cost effective to replace the heating element assembly, although there are a few exceptions to this.
Wow thanks for the fast reply, such a shame i really only needed them, i found beads, rods, but not these stands/clips. Any idea how exactly they are called ? i tried lots of words and i cant find them. Thanks again.
Below is a link to one that is used on some Frigidaire model dryers.
partsdr.com/part/131472100-heating-element-ceramic-insulator
Wow you were not kidding saying those are expensive Thanks for the help have a nice day and a really big thank you.
I've checked the thermal fuse (good) thermostat (good) heating element (good) still no heat. LG dryer
Most commonly, if those are good then it could be a bad main control board, bad motor, or bad power supply to the dryer (check the power at the outlet and inspect for burned or broken wires at the terminal block).
But does passing this test automatically mean it's good? Mine shoes 10ohms resistance and there are no breaks but the dryer is still not getting hot
Yes it would mean that the element is good if you tested it properly.
@@PartsDr Thanks. Found that the high limit cutoff has no continuity so replacing that part.
My heating element tuns red in few minutes but only stays red for about few seconds and then after like 20 min it turns red for a few seconds.
I see very thing is working with my multimeter test
Thank you for this video my amigo .
You're welcome! Was your heating element burned out?
Yes sir
What if on the continuity setting you hear the audible beeping sound but no Ohm reading ? And there is no break in the coil ?
You will need to read the owners manual for your multimeter. It might be normal for yours not to display an ohm reading on the continuity setting on your meter.
Clear as water
Perfect!
In a dual coil heating element, do the ohms reading need to be same? I am getting one 13 and other 37. Also, can I use single coil heating element instead of dual coil one? If so, how can I do that? I have Samsung DV42H5600EP/A3.
It is normal one some dual coil elements for the readings to be different. You cannot use a single coil element in place of a dual coil element.
I tapped off one wire and used single coil which works fine so far. I am not able to find the replacement part. Can you please see if you can find it? It is samsung dryer model no. DV42H5600EP/A3. Replacement part number that is required is DC47-00032A. I have put in DC47-00019A which is working now.
The dual coil element is part number PD00002235 (DC93-00154A) for your model dryer. partsdr.com/part/dc93-00154a-heating-element-assembly/
Thank you so much. It saved our dryer!
Awesome!
Maybe explain what the continuity setting is on the meter for those of us that don't know.
"Continuity" can be thought of as testing for a "continuous" wire with no breaks. in this case the heating element is a long wire coiled up. When you put the meter on the "continuity" setting, that means you want the meter to test that the heating element is a continuous wire, that is, it has no break in it. Testing a light bulb would be similar. The meter will pass a voltage out of the red lead of the meter, and look for that voltage to return on the black lead of the meter. if it sees the voltage coming back on the black lead, then it knows the heating element (or any circuit) has "continuity," that is, is acting like a continuous wire that can carry electricity from one input lug all the way to the other. If it sees that, then it sounds a beep so that you know there is continuity and you don't have to bother looking at the meter. In this case, continuity would mean the heating element is good. If you don't hear the beep, it means that the heating element wire is broken somewhere and therefore it's bad, it's burned out like a light bulb. If your meter doesn't have a continuity setting, not all do, then you use the "ohms" aka "resistance" setting. If a circuit has continuity, you would get a reading, sometimes zero ohms, sometimes a low number like 10 ohms, sometimes a high number depending on what kind of circuit or device you are testing, but you will get some reading. If it does not have continuity, then the meter will read "infinite resistance," meaning no continuity. There, now anyone that has read me comment knows all about the subject.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
what if plug for wire terminal breaks
you'll need to either solder a new terminal or replace the whole element
Ever seen a Kenmore heating coil that has 120 volts to both legs, the
correct resistance, and still won't heat? All the insulators for the
coil are intact.
Namey McName , make sure youre getting 220v at the heating element, if you only get 120v it wont heat. you need to measure both incoming wires to heating element you must get 110v from each one, if you dont get 220v when measuring between the 2 of them something elese is wrong
Yes, both are getting 110 volts when measured between the connector and the ground. I am waiting on one more part, and I'll write you back if I have success. But all of the heating system parts have been replaced at least once. I ordered a new heater relay to ensure a solid connection at the circuit board.
Namey McName you have to measure between both wire terminals at the element at the same time. you should get 220v between them when dryer is running LIVE TEST. Get youre multitester set it on AC and test between both terminals with the Dryer running on a heating cycle, you should get 220v . If you only get 120v ,that means youre not getting power from one leg. It wont heat if you only get 110v to the element.
pierantoni
I'll test it tomorrow. Thanks.
Between the legs, a few volts. I think this is the motor centrifugal switch, since the rest has been replaced.
This what I have wrong just git it Ck out dtill does not know what is wrong it nit heating it’s something else wrong
Here's a dumb question for you'll. When I'm checking for continuity using the multimeter, should the dryer be plugged in? Does it matter?
It should be unplugged. Yes, it matters.