@@OffTheLinePerformancecan you guys place make a video for rebuilding the h6 Subaru engines? I know that they may not yield the same amount of popularity in terms of tuning or performance but I believe they deserve some love and recognition. That said I believe that the Subaru h6 engines may be underrated and overlooked in terms of its potential. I got a ez30D I’m working on but cannot find enough info should I need to rebuild it and think I’m not alone in this circumstance
This was a well put together video. I watched every minute because there was a wealth of information and attention to detail that I thoroughly enjoyed.
Glad I’m not the only one who thought this, as well as the lack of torque sequencing on the cam carriers and caps, improper rtv amounts and routes especially with the carriers and oil pump. Great video for a novice but the seasoned builders will see a lot of “NO-NO’s. Im honestly surprised as OTL has a good rep, figured they would follow the book 100% butttt…..
Very informative video! Thank you guys so much for putting this together. A complete noobie like myself can now find the confidence to tackle this on their own!
For some reason I’m watching this and I’m a pro Subaru builder haha. I use an impact gun on cam gear and crank pulley removal. Otherwise you can let me know how the fight goes and the struggle to use the tool when my dewalt mid rang impact takes them off with 0 negative side affects. Just use the damn torque wrench when you put them back on. Like every bolt on the Subaru engine should be torqued to spec or again strip all the valve cover bolts, and the one that I see stripped mornthan any other bolt is the oil pickup tube flange bolts that mount it to the block. That will kill your motor. I on every build drill out the oil pickup mounting threads and use a long cert so I know for sure that the oil pickup won’t fail. This is the #1 cause of failure, people buy the killer b pickup tube to fix the oiling then create a problem over tightening the 8mm bolts and pulling the threads out of the aluminum. To cover it with silicone and then take it to me with rod bearing failure and when I show them that they try to blame me. And I’m like I didn’t build your motor how is this my fault. Sorry but you can’t reuse the crank or any parts in that motor now. And the killer b pickup tube you just destroyed by sucking up so much bearing material and sending it to the cams and ruining them as well.
Sick build man. I'm actually in the middle of doing an 02Q swap on an 07K for a friend. Definitely cool to see some of the progress you've made with the car! I'm actually building my vr6 turbo right now and seeing videos like these motivates me to finish it!
Hey guys thanks for giving me the confidence I needed to pull and strip my own motor to the short block. Video and explanation is 9/10, alot of helpful tips and tricks. Cameraman needs to be fired for his lack of focus at key parts tho 😂😂 jokes. Both guys are awesome and thanks again for this phenomenal breakdown of the EJ257 🤙💪
I know on a Cummins when they do a hot retorque. Let’s see you do that on a Subaru motor. IV tried to do one and the bolts moved a little but the time and heat I lost taking the motor out was all basically piece of mind.
Love the level of detail that you put into this video one of the best video I see on TH-cam so far how to instal an subaru engine love the detail thanks alot
I like the video very in depth. I wish you had better close up shots on some of the steps though. You describe it well but it's hard to see what exactly you're talking about.
Hey man great in depth video. I’ve got a couple of questions to ask. I’ve got a 1997 jdm wrx sti Impreza. I’ve replaced the head gaskets already as I was lifting the heads. Running 2 bar of boost with a g25/660 turbo and all supporting mods including water/injection. When I replaced them I had the heads resurfaced, pressure and crack checked and everything was as it should. I used RCM head gaskets and RCM extreme 11mm head studs. It’s about 12 months since and I’m now lifting the heads again. Cat drives fine under normal driving conditions only when using full boost does it push coolant into the overflow. Car has never overheated. I noticed in your video when you torqued the studs you said on high horsepower engines you torque to 150 ft/lb. Is that with the same arp studs or with the bigger 14mm version? My second question was about when you put the washers on you put lube on both sides but I watched a video with an arp representative who said to only lube the top side as it will cause a bearing affect and stretch the bolt? I’m hoping I can torque mine to a higher amount and alleviate this problem. Much appreciated for any advice.
The expertise shows in hand torquing those bolts, the Subie engines designed/assembled quite similar to a snowmobile engine, w the block sandwiching the crankshaft, makes for a really compact and lightweight design, it's also why the stock blocks can only handle Soo much without flexing..
As a pro tuner. Let me enlighten you all. Ejs blow up because… people don’t do a boost leak test and boost leak the maf sensor tube and everything. A maf leak equals lean. Then knock events lead up to spun bearing because they don’t understand how the ecm works and the Cobb devise won’t fix it cuz it also uses the same sensor to adjust fuel based off air flow. 1 maf leak you car will be running lower load seen and therefor the timing for the low load range which is advanced for low end torque. So throw all those mods on, blow your car up is the pattern. 😅 so next time let’s try this folks. Throw all those mods on. Then boost leak every part of the intake and exhaust. Systems. Then so your tuning process, and have a good car. If you get a big maf. Your up shit creek without a tune that rescaled the timing and load g/rev otherwise it will be getting more air than calculated in that low load region of the timing map and high boost equals lean and knocking till failure every time
Question 1 You guys bought a new shortblock. If I need to rebuild my engine, the heads will be resurfaced but do I also need too resurface the shortblock the sides that connects the heads? I will keep it stock. Question 2 And which part should I buy from third party and which oem I could order again.
please note to not over torque the oil feed pipe from the oil filter that goes through the oil cooler, it can and will take part of your fresh new motor off with it if you ever need to take it out.
How long do you let the RTV cure for? Seems like you just fire it up the same day. I'm thought I always had to let it sit for close to 24hrs before running fluids.
I don't like using silicone or rtv on valve covers, that stuff turns semi hard and if it falls off can jam passages etc... I use anaerobic sealants that only harden in areas that are sealed, the rest stays liquid and can easily melt away and get filtered out by the filter. I also don't like using dielectric grease on coils anymore. I've had times with my own project cars or customers that the crappy spring on the coil may fail to make contact with the plug because of the dielectric coating which is not Conductive. For the Grimm speed DP gasket I've had them leak, I don't have an oem turbo anymore but it's leaked on both oem and aftermarket FP turbo. They're MLS but I've always had to put on some high temp copper spray and let it dry, never had any leaks since. The life eval on the floor comment... 😅 Yea we've all been there, especially while installing a DP and the external waste gate
Hi!, my EJ25 wrx 08. I changed the passenger side valve cover gasket about 9 times and it still leaks, the cover is new with new screws. No cracks, everything normal, if I don't accelerate it doesn't leak anything. The problem is when I accelerate it starts to leak barely always from the weakest point which would be at the angle where the RTV is placed. The PCV valve is ok, and tubes ok. I wonder if the problem is that a lot of gases are generated in the valve cover but that would be very rare...
Not a rebuild... The short block was basically done... This is just the middle of the long block assembly/build.. Aka heads and on. I do like the cam gear holder tool, but I have a 04 ej25 block w/out the variable timing on a ej20 head IIRC .
I just built my Ra block engine, part of my build i regapped top rings to .018-.020" bottom rings .024"... Subaru had top ring .011-.013" top ring And bottom ring .021 Big mistake not regapping a Ra block.
Hello, I have a problem with my 2011 Subaru Impreza when the car is cold I turn and there is no problem when I use it for a long time and I turn to any side and it feels like the front tires are activated, the transmission stops until the car is completely cold. If I have that problem, could you help me with this problem? I have already changed many parts and it is still not solved
took me 1 day to fully watch but i am confused on how you ran the car with no coolant, did you sub water if not doesnt that do damage to other parts like extreme fast temp increase
Hey thanks! You can start the car for 2-3 mins without coolant and you won’t damage anything. We do this just so if there happens to be an oil leak we can fix the problem without having to worry about if we’re going to have to open the cooling system. Just saves us a mess and wasted coolant!
I remember Cleetus making 1/4 mile passes without coolant and it was "okay". Cars don't need coolant until they reach like 200°F. The water pump can spin without fluid and it's unharmed.
not really a rebuild video as everything was already assembled more or less a video about installing heads on a short block, none the less still some useful info.
So I guess I heard wrong or my maths ain't so good. You gapped these plugs at .025, but then you say you can use a bigger gap of .020 with the better coils? That's smaller, not bigger. What am I missing?
This guy calls putting a motor together bolting parts on an assembled short block, that is called assembling the bolt ons building an engine encompasses clearancing the shortblock which is the all important part mess up there and you will be taking that motor back out after a few minutes of running time, that separates the men from the boys..
No one mentions batteries. Once they get a lot of charging cycles, that battery is wasted. And new battery costs almost like a new EV car. That's why, IMO, EVs depreciate faster.
I'm truly confused on when putting a timing belt or chain on any engine rather it's a Subaru or Toyota, Chevy !!! And your not using any specialty tool the belt our chain accidentally slipps how would it kiss a piston and bend a valve?? When a valve that is fully opened will spring back to its seated position !!!! THE only way I can see any valve being bent is on a interference engine that's running and the belt breaks our jumps. Thanks PLMK?
Yes, as long as you don't rotate the crank, the valves won't kiss the pistons. When installing timing belt, the LH head needs valves opened to line up, and if you rotate the cams the wrong way, you can cause the intake and exhaust valves to collide.
It’s pretty hilarious honestly you just said there’s no good Wave that you can do this because it’s messy so there’s no way you can put gloves on your hands. It’s just impossible thing. I guess some peoples hands just don’t have pores.
That's quite a claim and I find it highly unlikely. Even so then say "how to bolt heads on a Subaru engine that's been rebuilt" not.... "the MOST in-depth rebuild of a Subaru engine known to mankind. Big difference from rebuilding an engine to bolting heads on an engine. Typical "ShitBait"
@@jack_brown7 if you ever built any engines with any studs you should know to tighten the studs by hand to not blow the threads out of the block, let alone covering every part with arp lube prior to torquing them will throw the torque specs off, I mean every box of arp bolts comes with instructions and tells you what not to do and what not to grease.
ARP specifically tells you too lube them, how are you going to try and tell someone who has built numerous 1K HP engines hes doing something wrong smh@heywoodjiblome2745
@@Anonymoose0913 you clearly never built any engines since you don’t know either, the studs should be finger tight to begin with to not put extra strain on the threads in the block, and the lube only goes on one side of the washer and on one side of the studs to get proper torque spec, not cover everything in arp lube and make up your own torque specs….. not trying to be that guy that pretends to know everything, but cmon don’t go out there putting out build videos when you can’t even follow the instructions on the head studs that literally literally come with a step by step instruction sheet in the box
@heywoodjiblome2745 Once again, this person has built multiple one thousand horsepower engines that are still healthy and running to this day - and have been for years. You are being exactly that guy that knows everything on the internet. I think the person who has an outstanding reputation for building these engines to varying power standards and has for years knows exactly what he's doing. Where as you appear to be someone just looking for something to critique.
Love in depth rebuilds like this, please do more
We're planning on it!
@@OffTheLinePerformancecan you guys place make a video for rebuilding the h6 Subaru engines? I know that they may not yield the same amount of popularity in terms of tuning or performance but I believe they deserve some love and recognition. That said I believe that the Subaru h6 engines may be underrated and overlooked in terms of its potential. I got a ez30D I’m working on but cannot find enough info should I need to rebuild it and think I’m not alone in this circumstance
In the process of rebuilding my 12 sti hatch and this video is a godsend! Thanks so much Grayson!
How's it going?
Currently rebuilding my 2009 STI EJ257. Y'all are a god send!
Best EJ assembly video I've ever seen. Saw it completely and learned a lot from it. Thanks a lot guys for what you're doing! 🙌👏👏👏💪💪💪
Thank you Grayson!
Glad you enjoyed it!
im not even rebuilding my engine but I totally admire the knowledge and explanation. This guy did a fantastic job.
The Value you guys provide from your channel is top tier. Amazing rebuild instructions. Thank you!
Appreciate the Love!
Thank you guys so much for this video. There are plenty out there on how to disassemble an ej, but almost none on how to reassemble .
Thank you Grayson,I love anything Subaru from OTL,as I am a Josh Bader customer BBR 500 2019 STI
Thats awesome!
Love this style of video! Keep doing these!
We will keep this in mind!!
Thank You, that was a interesting and detailed STI engine bebuild, i held my breath when you turned the key for the 1st time 👍 Au
Wow, this was amazing. Will be referencing this video soon after I pull mine!
Thank you for making this, I'm going together with my first EJ25 assembly right now, and this is hugely helpful!
Good luck!
This was a well put together video. I watched every minute because there was a wealth of information and attention to detail that I thoroughly enjoyed.
I feel like there should have been more appearances made by a torque wrench.
Glad I’m not the only one who thought this, as well as the lack of torque sequencing on the cam carriers and caps, improper rtv amounts and routes especially with the carriers and oil pump. Great video for a novice but the seasoned builders will see a lot of “NO-NO’s. Im honestly surprised as OTL has a good rep, figured they would follow the book 100% butttt…..
If it works for them and they have great results and no engine issues is their method wrong?
@@kaelll85I doubt this car is being driven like a real track / street car on a regular / daily driver basis.
Very informative video! Thank you guys so much for putting this together. A complete noobie like myself can now find the confidence to tackle this on their own!
This is fantastic. Although I just scheduled my shop visit for a new engine, I've definitely saved this for the project car!
Thank you guys so much for this!!!!!! You guys are amazing and have done so much for the Subaru community as a whole!
Thank you for your support!!!
For some reason I’m watching this and I’m a pro Subaru builder haha. I use an impact gun on cam gear and crank pulley removal. Otherwise you can let me know how the fight goes and the struggle to use the tool when my dewalt mid rang impact takes them off with 0 negative side affects. Just use the damn torque wrench when you put them back on. Like every bolt on the Subaru engine should be torqued to spec or again strip all the valve cover bolts, and the one that I see stripped mornthan any other bolt is the oil pickup tube flange bolts that mount it to the block. That will kill your motor. I on every build drill out the oil pickup mounting threads and use a long cert so I know for sure that the oil pickup won’t fail. This is the #1 cause of failure, people buy the killer b pickup tube to fix the oiling then create a problem over tightening the 8mm bolts and pulling the threads out of the aluminum. To cover it with silicone and then take it to me with rod bearing failure and when I show them that they try to blame me. And I’m like I didn’t build your motor how is this my fault. Sorry but you can’t reuse the crank or any parts in that motor now. And the killer b pickup tube you just destroyed by sucking up so much bearing material and sending it to the cams and ruining them as well.
Rebuilding my EJ25 with a built long block and the in depth video is really helping
Sick build man. I'm actually in the middle of doing an 02Q swap on an 07K for a friend. Definitely cool to see some of the progress you've made with the car! I'm actually building my vr6 turbo right now and seeing videos like these motivates me to finish it!
That blue point tool cart is sick👌
will be watching this if i ever grenade my motor!!! appreciate the work you guys have done on my sti swapped hawkeye!
Loved this one, any chance of a more in depth sti 6-speed rebuild video in the future?
i thought to myself "why is there a large "Chuck It" ball on the LS in the backround, and then at 16:20 i saw doggo. and now it all makes sense. haha
Hey guys thanks for giving me the confidence I needed to pull and strip my own motor to the short block. Video and explanation is 9/10, alot of helpful tips and tricks. Cameraman needs to be fired for his lack of focus at key parts tho 😂😂 jokes. Both guys are awesome and thanks again for this phenomenal breakdown of the EJ257 🤙💪
My toxic trait is watching this entire video thru and thru and thinking I can do it right away
I know on a Cummins when they do a hot retorque. Let’s see you do that on a Subaru motor. IV tried to do one and the bolts moved a little but the time and heat I lost taking the motor out was all basically piece of mind.
Great refrence/build video. About to throw an engine together soon for my 04 STI. Awesome stuff.
Thanks. Many nice things here. How about a 600+hp shortblock in depth build next with clearance specs
Love the level of detail that you put into this video one of the best video I see on TH-cam so far how to instal an subaru engine love the detail thanks alot
Is there a manual u would recommend to rebuild 2016 sti engine?
Great work btw
The laying on the floor under the car thing, i have done a million times!! hahah
Always wanted to make a stand that could lock into something to stop it moving when you got for those big torque numbers
I like the video very in depth. I wish you had better close up shots on some of the steps though. You describe it well but it's hard to see what exactly you're talking about.
Hey man great in depth video. I’ve got a couple of questions to ask. I’ve got a 1997 jdm wrx sti Impreza. I’ve replaced the head gaskets already as I was lifting the heads. Running 2 bar of boost with a g25/660 turbo and all supporting mods including water/injection. When I replaced them I had the heads resurfaced, pressure and crack checked and everything was as it should. I used RCM head gaskets and RCM extreme 11mm head studs. It’s about 12 months since and I’m now lifting the heads again. Cat drives fine under normal driving conditions only when using full boost does it push coolant into the overflow. Car has never overheated. I noticed in your video when you torqued the studs you said on high horsepower engines you torque to 150 ft/lb. Is that with the same arp studs or with the bigger 14mm version?
My second question was about when you put the washers on you put lube on both sides but I watched a video with an arp representative who said to only lube the top side as it will cause a bearing affect and stretch the bolt? I’m hoping I can torque mine to a higher amount and alleviate this problem.
Much appreciated for any advice.
Drove nearly 200k miles with the EJ255 in my Forester STI without it ever needing a rebuild. Maybe you should do an in depth how to keep them alive...
Believe you just pulled the psa 10 charizard
This was great! Can you do this on an FA?
The expertise shows in hand torquing those bolts, the Subie engines designed/assembled quite similar to a snowmobile engine, w the block sandwiching the crankshaft, makes for a really compact and lightweight design, it's also why the stock blocks can only handle Soo much without flexing..
As a pro tuner. Let me enlighten you all. Ejs blow up because… people don’t do a boost leak test and boost leak the maf sensor tube and everything. A maf leak equals lean. Then knock events lead up to spun bearing because they don’t understand how the ecm works and the Cobb devise won’t fix it cuz it also uses the same sensor to adjust fuel based off air flow. 1 maf leak you car will be running lower load seen and therefor the timing for the low load range which is advanced for low end torque. So throw all those mods on, blow your car up is the pattern. 😅 so next time let’s try this folks. Throw all those mods on. Then boost leak every part of the intake and exhaust. Systems. Then so your tuning process, and have a good car. If you get a big maf. Your up shit creek without a tune that rescaled the timing and load g/rev otherwise it will be getting more air than calculated in that low load region of the timing map and high boost equals lean and knocking till failure every time
good video..just wouldn't start an ej without coolant since thats all thats lubricating the waterpump
Question 1
You guys bought a new shortblock. If I need to rebuild my engine, the heads will be resurfaced but do I also need too resurface the shortblock the sides that connects the heads? I will keep it stock.
Question 2
And which part should I buy from third party and which oem I could order again.
you just saved meeeeee!!!!!
WOOOOO
Po302 2006 subaru sti with 146,000 miles .working my way to a compression and leakdown test
always check for oil leaks with your fleshlight after first startup.
please note to not over torque the oil feed pipe from the oil filter that goes through the oil cooler, it can and will take part of your fresh new motor off with it if you ever need to take it out.
your a beast mate, make it look easy haha, cheers
Brother, do you have a part # for that 12pt socket?
Hey man, how do you add a popn bang tune with carvery?
How long do you let the RTV cure for? Seems like you just fire it up the same day. I'm thought I always had to let it sit for close to 24hrs before running fluids.
I don't like using silicone or rtv on valve covers, that stuff turns semi hard and if it falls off can jam passages etc... I use anaerobic sealants that only harden in areas that are sealed, the rest stays liquid and can easily melt away and get filtered out by the filter.
I also don't like using dielectric grease on coils anymore. I've had times with my own project cars or customers that the crappy spring on the coil may fail to make contact with the plug because of the dielectric coating which is not Conductive.
For the Grimm speed DP gasket I've had them leak, I don't have an oem turbo anymore but it's leaked on both oem and aftermarket FP turbo. They're MLS but I've always had to put on some high temp copper spray and let it dry, never had any leaks since.
The life eval on the floor comment... 😅 Yea we've all been there, especially while installing a DP and the external waste gate
Awesome 🔥
Awesome video my man. Thank you
Glad you liked it!
Thank you, very useful video.
Do you need to replace the turbo with a spun bearing?
OEM gasket vs a brand name aftermarket gasket ?
Why are you using silicone for the oil pan and oil pump instead of a gasket?
Because that's what you do with an ej?
Good video, but why isn't a torque wrench being used?
His hand and wrist are calibrated
the 4 dislikes are jealous of your lovely equipment
You can see dislikes? I thought the Marxists got rid of that..
No important order on torquing cam caps? The service manuals say otherwise.
Hi!, my EJ25 wrx 08. I changed the passenger side valve cover gasket about 9 times and it still leaks, the cover is new with new screws. No cracks, everything normal, if I don't accelerate it doesn't leak anything. The problem is when I accelerate it starts to leak barely always from the weakest point which would be at the angle where the RTV is placed. The PCV valve is ok, and tubes ok. I wonder if the problem is that a lot of gases are generated in the valve cover but that would be very rare...
Just blew my engine at 32K, I only got to drive the car 8K of that. Think I'm going to try a build a bit earlier than I expected.
We offer 400/600 packages that could be just what you need!
th-cam.com/video/uCglt0UwCGk/w-d-xo.html
I’ll admit I forgot that line but I got it in without taking the timing off nor the covers. It is possible
Can we get one for a fa20dit please 🙏🏼
Not a rebuild... The short block was basically done... This is just the middle of the long block assembly/build.. Aka heads and on.
I do like the cam gear holder tool, but I have a 04 ej25 block w/out the variable timing on a ej20 head IIRC .
I just built my Ra block engine, part of my build i regapped top rings to .018-.020" bottom rings .024"...
Subaru had top ring .011-.013" top ring
And bottom ring .021
Big mistake not regapping a Ra block.
How much it cost 2015+ wrx engine block rebuild?
Really indepth info on the myriad oil/vacuum lines there's a shit ton on these little motors!!
10:10
If you drop the buckets and didn't know where they go, how do you figure it out?
You have to measure your valve lash
Company23 makes a camlock tool for the TIC FU cam gear bolts. 59:00
Hello, I have a problem with my 2011 Subaru Impreza when the car is cold I turn and there is no problem when I use it for a long time and I turn to any side and it feels like the front tires are activated, the transmission stops until the car is completely cold. If I have that problem, could you help me with this problem? I have already changed many parts and it is still not solved
I got 109k miles making 600whp and I pushed my wrx to 800hp a few times, should I get a rebuild ?
Only when it breaks! Run it until it doesnt anymore!!
@@OffTheLinePerformance big Bett, I feel a lost of power now so I might get a new motor
@@chasestoddard6984 awe man! We'd be more than happy to help! If you have any questions shoot us an email sales@offthelineperformance.com
Tuning tutorial when? 😋
took me 1 day to fully watch but i am confused on how you ran the car with no coolant, did you sub water if not doesnt that do damage to other parts like extreme fast temp increase
Hey thanks! You can start the car for 2-3 mins without coolant and you won’t damage anything. We do this just so if there happens to be an oil leak we can fix the problem without having to worry about if we’re going to have to open the cooling system. Just saves us a mess and wasted coolant!
I remember Cleetus making 1/4 mile passes without coolant and it was "okay". Cars don't need coolant until they reach like 200°F. The water pump can spin without fluid and it's unharmed.
not really a rebuild video as everything was already assembled more or less a video about installing heads on a short block, none the less still some useful info.
Nah bro, it was a long block engine build. Had alot of good info on here.
I used this vehicle to rebuild my motor, and watched it atleast 6 times but it guided me through the whole thing
@markalvarado7866 an engine with no heads is a short block build
This video is good and it exactly what I was looking for
Go to smeedias video if you want a video that covers literally everything
You used the oem head gaskets….why not something like cometic or felpro or whatever…why the oem ones?
I know that some people like oem gaskets for their open deck blocks
@@cheddardavis5818 okay but are they better than aftermarket? Because I know these are a real problem area
Depending on power level I’m not 100% sure there but I see a lot of people under the 500hp mark using oem especially with the fa20
The car made stock power, so no need for the upgrade! All of our big power builds get upgraded HG
are you by chance in florida?
we are in des moines iowa
love the out-most white-ness of the lab ^^
fyi on the RH exhaust cam bolt you hit 73.3 ft/lbs
Ya it turned red
Bless you sir
Don’t do the crank shaft trick for that cam gears, not recommended
M you say rebuild but the bottom end is already done, this is just the head assembly and aux
Wish I had watched this a couple months ago. BEFORE I did the timing without installing the AVCS line on drive side. Fuck my life
I didn't realize subaru uses SOOOO much silicone everywhere instead of actual gaskets lol
You would be surprised on how many modern engines seem to use more gasket maker/sealant than actual gaskets.
Pretty common. Most modern engines are RTV'd together.
So I guess I heard wrong or my maths ain't so good. You gapped these plugs at .025, but then you say you can use a bigger gap of .020 with the better coils? That's smaller, not bigger. What am I missing?
This guy calls putting a motor together bolting parts on an assembled short block, that is called assembling the bolt ons building an engine encompasses clearancing the shortblock which is the all important part mess up there and you will be taking that motor back out after a few minutes
of running time, that separates the men from the boys..
wrong,
You are NOT supposed to lube both sides of the head stud washers! Only the one facing the nut!
No one mentions batteries. Once they get a lot of charging cycles, that battery is wasted.
And new battery costs almost like a new EV car.
That's why, IMO, EVs depreciate faster.
I would have fitted a new clutch 😢
*opens block* .... *sees open deck block*..... ohhh ok so like 350-400whp build max. got it
All turbo ej2.5l are semi closed deck.
I'm truly confused on when putting a timing belt or chain on any engine rather it's a Subaru or Toyota, Chevy !!! And your not using any specialty tool the belt our chain accidentally slipps how would it kiss a piston and bend a valve?? When a valve that is fully opened will spring back to its seated position !!!! THE only way I can see any valve being bent is on a interference engine that's running and the belt breaks our jumps. Thanks PLMK?
Yes, as long as you don't rotate the crank, the valves won't kiss the pistons. When installing timing belt, the LH head needs valves opened to line up, and if you rotate the cams the wrong way, you can cause the intake and exhaust valves to collide.
I love the video but you're bumming me out again we need to build a time machine just for parts never-ending bringing back musclecars
It’s pretty hilarious honestly you just said there’s no good Wave that you can do this because it’s messy so there’s no way you can put gloves on your hands. It’s just impossible thing. I guess some peoples hands just don’t have pores.
what a fuckin thumbnail lolol
EJs are throw away items now
i fell asleep how tf did i end up on a 2 hour long tutorial of building a car that i didn't even know existed
Shit Bait…..How can it be in-depth when you didn’t touch the bottom end.
90% of the people doing a motor replacement in their garage will be purchasing a block already assembled and refurbished heads.
@@Otl_grayson Bull Crap
That's quite a claim and I find it highly unlikely.
Even so then say "how to bolt heads on a Subaru engine that's been rebuilt" not....
"the MOST in-depth rebuild of a Subaru engine known to mankind.
Big difference from rebuilding an engine to bolting heads on an engine.
Typical "ShitBait"
The MOST in depth EJ25 rebuild tutorial EVER.......... yet you cant even install the head studs correctly right off the rip......
And how exactly did he install them incorrectly?
@@jack_brown7 if you ever built any engines with any studs you should know to tighten the studs by hand to not blow the threads out of the block, let alone covering every part with arp lube prior to torquing them will throw the torque specs off, I mean every box of arp bolts comes with instructions and tells you what not to do and what not to grease.
ARP specifically tells you too lube them, how are you going to try and tell someone who has built numerous 1K HP engines hes doing something wrong smh@heywoodjiblome2745
@@Anonymoose0913 you clearly never built any engines since you don’t know either, the studs should be finger tight to begin with to not put extra strain on the threads in the block, and the lube only goes on one side of the washer and on one side of the studs to get proper torque spec, not cover everything in arp lube and make up your own torque specs….. not trying to be that guy that pretends to know everything, but cmon don’t go out there putting out build videos when you can’t even follow the instructions on the head studs that literally literally come with a step by step instruction sheet in the box
@heywoodjiblome2745 Once again, this person has built multiple one thousand horsepower engines that are still healthy and running to this day - and have been for years. You are being exactly that guy that knows everything on the internet. I think the person who has an outstanding reputation for building these engines to varying power standards and has for years knows exactly what he's doing. Where as you appear to be someone just looking for something to critique.
i would stay away from that aos
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