I just did this job last week, before i found your video. I used a needle nose pliers to compress the piston because i didnt have another tool. Also i recommend not to remove the slider pin rubber boot from the bracket, as they're a pain to get back on. Better to separate the boot from the head of the pin. Thanks for the videos, subscribed!
I like your video especially last part which is engage/disengage more times to get out of the service mode. I had a situation like that. Once I tried to get out of the service mode, I saw electric parking brake malfunction. I was so nervous, and tried to disengage/engage a couple of times, then message had gone. Is that normal? I had Volvo XC90 with EPB, and I haven't seen that issue before when I did rear brake job. Man, now I am losing my confidence for the next job.
This does appear to happen after the replacing the pads I assume from pushing the piston back into the calipers further than the engage/disengage process accounts for. Be very careful when pushing the piston back to insert new pads. This does appear to be normal as the pad seems loose until the epb is return to normal spacing/clearance. You can’t compare Volvo to Mazda being different manufacturers.
@@jungminlee2386 pushing that piston in should be the minimum amount needed to get the pads in the caliper and on the rotor. I have read that it is important to push the piston straight in as opposed to rotating when pushing it in. I am unsure if that matters but remember someone had mentioned that online.
@@allannordike163 Maybe! Not sure what you mean by “the piston is stuck open and solid”. If you got the caliper off there may not be damage. The damage can occur when you push the caliper piston back into the caliper without service mode. If you did this you may have damaged the Electronic parking brake motor and/or the caliper. If the caliper is off, put the EPB into service mode. Install the pads and take the vehicle out of service mode (this can take multiple attempts) with the rear wheels off the ground see if the parking brake still works on both sides.
Just an important subtle difference on how to take care of back OUT of service mode. Instead of pushing down on the parking brake button to put the car in service mode you must pull UP on the parking break button to return to normal operation. In the video you say push down at the end. I had to find another video to confirm the correct procedure.
to re-engage the electric parking brake - you said hold down the parking brake switch, but you pulled it up? Can you clarify please. Excellent tutorial by the way.
Hey man I also have a 2016 and my VIN applies to that R052/16C rear caliper TSB. My driver-side caliper seems to be okay it has a LOT/Batch number of "985" but the passenger-side looks like it says "68T". Do you have any experience with this TSB and did the Batch numbers ever have letters in them?
@@Theocdrepairman look into it; it effects all 2016 CX-5s made before September. My VIN falls within that range. The issue is the electronic parking break doesn’t disengage fully and the rear brakes drag causing a multitude of issues. TSB is R052/16C.
So does my 2013 gonna do the brakes hopefully this weekend. It's been a while since I've done a rear brake job but if I remember correctly on my Honda Civic there was a cable I had to disconnect or something. I also don't think my 2013 has a "service mode" I know i don't have the fancy digital display the newer ones have.
With so many types of CX-5 there's other videos regarding the manual park brake. If it's a manual park brake it's important to find out if the piston needs to be rotated. You may be able to compare the videos as well as the comments/questions. Some also mention a manual that can be downloaded, which is good when you need to determine whether you need to rotate the piston or open the bleed valve when compressing the piston.
So without taking off the other wheel do the little spring notification dealers go on the top or the bottom it looks like the bottom you didn't really explain that part of it
@@samkitty5894 You need to put the emergency brake into service mode because it is an electronic emergency parking brake as opposed to the traditional mechanical parking brake. Failure to do this can damage the electrical control components.
@@Theocdrepairman Please explain why? If electrical emergency brake is released isn't it the same as the old fashioned one being released? If one can spin the wheel freely, where is the problem?
@@samkitty5894 it when you install the new pad it won’t be retracted all the way to make room for the new brake pads. If you donkey Kong on it “could” brake. When trying to compress the caliper.
@@samkitty5894 lol nice! Also when you compress the caliper make sure it goes in straight do not turn it like a screw, as this can cause damage as well. I hate how everything is electronic, cables work great and effecient
I just did this job last week, before i found your video. I used a needle nose pliers to compress the piston because i didnt have another tool. Also i recommend not to remove the slider pin rubber boot from the bracket, as they're a pain to get back on. Better to separate the boot from the head of the pin. Thanks for the videos, subscribed!
Thank you for the comments and the sub!
I like your video especially last part which is engage/disengage more times to get out of the service mode. I had a situation like that. Once I tried to get out of the service mode, I saw electric parking brake malfunction. I was so nervous, and tried to disengage/engage a couple of times, then message had gone. Is that normal? I had Volvo XC90 with EPB, and I haven't seen that issue before when I did rear brake job. Man, now I am losing my confidence for the next job.
This does appear to happen after the replacing the pads I assume from pushing the piston back into the calipers further than the engage/disengage process accounts for. Be very careful when pushing the piston back to insert new pads. This does appear to be normal as the pad seems loose until the epb is return to normal spacing/clearance. You can’t compare Volvo to Mazda being different manufacturers.
Thanks! I actually push the piston way back to the end until it can’t be pushed more. Do you have any recommendations where I need to push the piston?
@@jungminlee2386 pushing that piston in should be the minimum amount needed to get the pads in the caliper and on the rotor. I have read that it is important to push the piston straight in as opposed to rotating when pushing it in. I am unsure if that matters but remember someone had mentioned that online.
@@TheocdrepairmanThanks for your comment. That is really helpful. :)
What if the caliper was pulled off the hub before going into service mode? the brake piston is stuck open and solid. anyway of fixing this?
@@allannordike163 Maybe! Not sure what you mean by “the piston is stuck open and solid”. If you got the caliper off there may not be damage. The damage can occur when you push the caliper piston back into the caliper without service mode. If you did this you may have damaged the Electronic parking brake motor and/or the caliper. If the caliper is off, put the EPB into service mode. Install the pads and take the vehicle out of service mode (this can take multiple attempts) with the rear wheels off the ground see if the parking brake still works on both sides.
Great video have you done the rear hubs on this same car.
Unfortunately I have not replaced the rear hubs on this vehicle
Just an important subtle difference on how to take care of back OUT of service mode. Instead of pushing down on the parking brake button to put the car in service mode you must pull UP on the parking break button to return to normal operation. In the video you say push down at the end. I had to find another video to confirm the correct procedure.
@@James_48 I will add some text at that point to clarify
@ that would be awesome. Also, thanks for the video it really helped us out (other than that small detail!!)
@ thanks for the comment!
Awesome! Thank you
to re-engage the electric parking brake - you said hold down the parking brake switch, but you pulled it up? Can you clarify please. Excellent tutorial by the way.
You hold it in the UP position. Sorry for the mix up! Thanks for the comment. To re-engage parking brake it may take multiple attempts.
The gloves you wear, are they disposable?
No they are not disposable
How do you do the 2021?
Did you try the procedure to put the rear electronic parking brake in service mode? I am not 100%, but it is likely the same.
Hey man I also have a 2016 and my VIN applies to that R052/16C rear caliper TSB. My driver-side caliper seems to be okay it has a LOT/Batch number of "985" but the passenger-side looks like it says "68T". Do you have any experience with this TSB and did the Batch numbers ever have letters in them?
Thanks for the comment. Sorry, but I do not know the TSB you are referencing so I cannot answer your question about the batch numbers.
@@Theocdrepairman look into it; it effects all 2016 CX-5s made before September. My VIN falls within that range. The issue is the electronic parking break doesn’t disengage fully and the rear brakes drag causing a multitude of issues.
TSB is R052/16C.
awesome one thought pull UP on switch thanks
@@Ta-uq1st Thank you for the comment! I misspoke in the video, I appreciate the feedback!
I like, I like, I like.
My 2014 CX-5 has a manual parking brake 😀
So does my 2013 gonna do the brakes hopefully this weekend.
It's been a while since I've done a rear brake job but if I remember correctly on my Honda Civic there was a cable I had to disconnect or something.
I also don't think my 2013 has a "service mode" I know i don't have the fancy digital display the newer ones have.
With so many types of CX-5 there's other videos regarding the manual park brake. If it's a manual park brake it's important to find out if the piston needs to be rotated. You may be able to compare the videos as well as the comments/questions. Some also mention a manual that can be downloaded, which is good when you need to determine whether you need to rotate the piston or open the bleed valve when compressing the piston.
So without taking off the other wheel do the little spring notification dealers go on the top or the bottom it looks like the bottom you didn't really explain that part of it
@@nehemiahmathews8683 I’m sorry but I’m not sure what parts you are referring too.
@@nehemiahmathews8683 I’m sorry but I’m not sure what parts you are referring too.
Why do you need to put the vehicle into service mode first? Shouldn't releasing the E-brake be enough? Like it has been for 100 years...
@@samkitty5894 You need to put the emergency brake into service mode because it is an electronic emergency parking brake as opposed to the traditional mechanical parking brake. Failure to do this can damage the electrical control components.
@@Theocdrepairman Please explain why? If electrical emergency brake is released isn't it the same as the old fashioned one being released? If one can spin the wheel freely, where is the problem?
@@samkitty5894 it when you install the new pad it won’t be retracted all the way to make room for the new brake pads. If you donkey Kong on it “could” brake. When trying to compress the caliper.
@@Theocdrepairman I ain't no Donkey Kong. I am more like Hercules...
@@samkitty5894 lol nice! Also when you compress the caliper make sure it goes in straight do not turn it like a screw, as this can cause damage as well. I hate how everything is electronic, cables work great and effecient