Hey Ivan I'm a Mazda technician figured I'd throw my two cents in. The Mazda vehicles are some of the few where a scan tool isn't needed and you can do the rear brake job. There is literally no need to use a scan tool. Putting it into maintenance mode is as simple as holding the accelerator all the way down and the park brake button and cycling the ignition until you hear the motors retracting. You'll also see a P! icon in the instrument cluster as well. Then you push the piston straight back. I see lots coming in with the electric motor destroyed because people do not look up the procedure. Also for anyone reading to talk it out of the maintenance mode it's as simple as pulling up on the park brake button while holding the accelerator all the way down and cycling the ignition 3 times until you hear the motors actuating.
The thing I like about your videos is that you show some of your mistakes instead of only the successes. That's how we all learn from you. Don't let it get you down, your efforts are much appreciated. Thanks Ivan!
Ivan, thank you for sharing your torment. Your attitude is amazing as are your diagnostic skills! Those who have never learned anything "by fire" apparently have not tried anything beyond their comfort level. Kudos!
Ive done so many on vw,jaguars,rovers, fords, Mercedes all using this same design. I remove the motor, spin the spline by hand using a torx bit for example til it stops, the caliper can be pushed in like a normal caliper no twisting required. Very easy, easier than a twist caliper design i think. Activate the e brake a few times and done.
I drive a Tacoma...it has rear drum.brakes...are they perfect....well maybe not but it works. Press down on the foot pedal and set...press on foot.pedal and release. People criticize the Tacoma for being old.school...is that really so bad???? Ivan....you are patient to a fault. The fact you don't even say shit is amazing. Your skills are impressive. Pine Hollow Diagnostics....PHD...clever
only for the rear brakes, which are more like 25% of the braking(varies with weight load) it's not very fun with 4 wheel drum, the fronts heat too fast and fade away like mad. when I was a teen a guy tried to sell me an old F100 to tow my boat with, manual trans and 4 wheel drum brakes, the pig could hardly stop itself with all 4 working perfect and I passed on that truck. I should have bought it, though still thinking back about I was a dumb-dumb and could have easily converted to front disc and it was in fairly good shape for being in Ohio, old guy had it and literally never drove it in winter, his son didn't want it after he passed (thinking about it still makes me kick myself in the nuts)
@@throttlebottle5906 Very true. I knew a guy years ago with a 1970 Dodge something-or-other, can't remember exactly what, but it had 4 wheel drums. It was kind of scary to drive.
Rear discs are superior to drums in every way. More advanced vehicles apply the rear brake before the front to reduce dive (My 2008 VW Golf GTI does it). Try finding a drum brake system with auto adjusters that really work, gotta love the old handbrake cable that stretches and needs constant adjustment, drums fill with water and then don't work just when you need them, etc, etc. Problem is you get people giving advice on how to work on electric park brakes who don't read the manual.
I bought an Autel Maxidiag scan tool specifically because it will retract E-Parking brakes. I guess the main reason they switched was to free up console space for the Quick-E-Mart 40 ounce cup holders.
I have the Autel MS906TS when you go under Service/ EPB Mazda wasnt listed. The Mazda Tech above says Mazda is one of the few you dont need a Scan Tool for the procedure. Maybe they have it in the factory tool?
Thanks for posting this as my first time doing the rear brakes on my wife's CX5 pretty much went the same way. If I hadn't come across this, I probably would have been one of those people Mike was talking about. I did have to do the manual release step as I accidentally sent the piston the wrong direction without the brake pads in place and thought I'd really screwed up. With a little patience I was able to get the piston compressed and everything reassembled. The rear driver side went about as quick as the front once I knew how to put it in maintenance mode. Again, I can't thank you enough for posting this. Very important information!
The way I've been doing brake jobs on anything with an electrical parking brake: 1. Un-plug electrical connector 2. Get power probe 3. Use regular NON TWIST IN caliper compressor 4. Apply power to one pin and ground to other. 5. If the Piston begins to retract as you put pressure on it with the tool keep going, if it tries to press against the tool, reverse polarity. I'm a professional mechanic and have been doing it this way for years and years and have never once run into a problem!
These kinds of videos are priceless, Thanks for sharing the struggle giving some of us a heads up about these kinds of emergency brake systems having not had to deal with them yet.
I feel your pain Ivan! I had a Ford fusion prior to buying the Launch Diag 4, & only had my Snap-On Solus Ultra (13.2) updated. Thanks GOD for Identifix cause i did read the procedure & found that on-board maintenance mode, followed & had no issue! Thanks to Eric O (S. Main Auto) Keith (New Level Auto), & you (Pine Hollow Diagnostics) using & reviewing this advanced, affordable, professional, scanner cause i own it & it paid for itself right out the gate. I'm getting higher end work now & my reputation is growing in my community as a mobile diagnostic professional. Best DIY/Professional videos around between y'all 3.
At 6:17 you said you would charge extra. Why would you charge the customer anything extra? You clearly stated it was something you messed up on. this is what really hurts us techs. I know this job is taking more of your time and you are having to remove parts you normally wouldn't. You can't charge a customer for lack of knowledge or training. This is where you take as a self training exercise so you won't have this issue next time. Don't take it wrong your a good tech and I enjoy watching yours and other TH-camrs channels.
@@chiluco2000 The tech taking on the job should know that information and take it into consideration when quoting the job. In this case the tech presumed it would be just like most other rear brake jobs and got burned. I agree with lee minnis, the tech shouldn't charge the customer extra time to learn what the customer likely assumes they already know when entrusting them with the job in the first place. In other scenarios where a job overruns due to unforeseeable issues - e.g. finding further broken parts upon disassembly of that quoted for or having to repair some previous asshat's damage to threads that now need helicoiling etc. - then fine, let the customer know and charge extra. But that's not learning, it's just unforeseeable - well, actually it's probably foreseeable that 'something' along those lines could occur so the customer ought to be appraised of that possibility when given the quote. I'm sure it's probably a typical T&C clause when quoting.
While you are correct I believe ivan made that comment off hand. I think he meant charge more initially for the job. When I have something go wrong I go into oh shit mode and it's hard to tell what I would say.
A couple of weeks ago I was lucky enough to actually read the SI after not finding a release procedure in the scanner's menu, same car and model. Looks like it was worth it to look it up😁.
I just did rear brakes on a CX5. TH-cam is a great tool. Every, and I MEAN EVERY video that I watched said to put the rear brakes in maintenance mode. Not doing so would not turn out so well! I guess you proved their point. I also has a Jeep Cherokee with the same procedure. There is a maintenance mode in the settings.
The first mechanic who did my rear brakes didnt perform this procedure and I showed the third this video, but the right wheel still dragging... the car makes a loud noise and the flashing brake light appears on the dashboard after you drive for a while... I cant find someone who can fix this... cheers...
Thanks for this! When I did my rear brakes, I KNEW about the procedure and did it and I didn't twist the caliper when I compressed it but it seems that it twisted a little bit anyway. This seems to have caused my EPB to be slightly engaged while the brake was off and I was driving. Needless to say the smell of burning brake pads was overwhelming. I had to take off the right rear caliper and remove the EPB, then turn the caliper bolt in the direction shown in the video in order to align the caliper correctly. After reinstalling everything, the problem was gone! Thanks again.
I did rotors and pads front/rear on my 2017 CX-5, super easy and DIY friendly as long as you do the maintenance mode procedure. I used a twist style compression tool, i put a brake pad between to minimize twisting. You also have to make sure the notch on the piston align with the pin on the brake pad. I saved ~1000 euro doing it myself, parts included.
Thank you for this video watched it a couple of times and wow it saved me $1000 bucks going to the dealership! All because i turned pistons not allowing repair mode to be activated while changing rear breaks. I learned to make sure the peg on the sisk breaks are engaging the piston also make sure your a couple of turns loose on brake calipers so when electric motors on EPB are engaged it takes little effort to engage calipers. When car goes into service mode EPB motors will turn maybe 5 turns to allow room for replacement of old brake pads. Be well! Each one teach one!
Thumbs up for this one, thanks for walking us through it. I know that feeling, well. Glad to see it isn't only me, even skilled professionals have bad days. It's the price of being a generalist.
I like it how you aren't content with just reading the procedure. You keep working with it until you understand HOW it works. I'm the same way with things, if I don't know the fundamentals of how something works I feel like I can't really diagnose with any certainty. Its the same for IT equipment and cars.
Mazda tech here too. Just turn the piston about three times without pressure then push it back the tool. Always turn the piston without pressure and its goes back very easy. Or maintenance mode as described in other posts.
I would start over put it in service mode. Push both Pistons back in. Toss scanner off to the side. It appears that the two actuators are not in sync. One side is being applied and the other side was released. Good work though man nice video.
Just like a VW. My daughters 2013 CC was pretty easy with a scanner. Service section. Retract E Parking brake. Heard both retract. Changed rotor / pads. Pushed reset E Brake and both motors closed onto the rotor and then released slightly. I agree with you in that no one should need a scanner to change out brakes. Crazy. I'm sure though it saved VW money and a precious few oz's of weight for the blessed MPG Gods..
The Passat - and other VW makes - feature notched pistons, suggesting you would have to twist them back in after releasing the e-brake. In the tool set there is no insert that fits into the notch pattern. Guess what, you push on them straight and they'll retract.
They are all going that way Ivan. I work at a Ford, Land Rover, Jaguar dealer and all use this system. Land Rover has been using it since 2012. Most manufacturers have a manual way of releasing so you don't need a scan tool.
Just a heads up, something that caught me. The brake pads have a pin on them that locate them into the slots on the caliper piston. If you previously turned the piston, and didnt get it back to 12" oclock position before you re assembled it with the pads, you could have smashed the pin with the piston, making it mushroom out, and then still not fit correctly once you rotate the piston to the correct position. This is what bit me in the ass. I swapped the pad with the smooshed pin to the outside of the rotor and vice versa, made sure the piston was oriented correctly, and BOOM, working brakes.
I love that you posted this, great learning experience for you and for us. There's some good info in the comments about the maintenance mode and about using a power probe to drive the motor. I also love some of the hate in the comments. A wise man once told me, "my haters are my strength!" Keep it up!
I'm sorry Ivan but i just had to laugh at the end when you finally got it all working correctly. Just dealt with something like this yesterday fixing fuel lines on a old rusted out Chevy truck. Fix one leak and another one starts. Not electric brakes but just the fact when you think something should be so simple it always come back to bite you. Lol good job!
Just did a Jeep Cherokee today. You can enter brake maintenance mode right from the cluster. When u do it retracts the motors. Then u just push the piston back in. Don’t turn just push. Install ur brakes. Then pump up the pedal, activate the parking brake a few times to verify it works correctly and ur done! A lil more work but all in all pretty easy job!
The thing that upsets me about these new E-brake systems is that it's either ON or OFF, no modulation in-between. Definitely a big step back in terms of safety!!
Parking brakes are only good on manual vehicles anyways. Here in Michigan, NO ONE uses parking brakes. The ones on my Trailblazer rusted away and fell off and had never ever been used. I refused to replace them. What for?
Ivan we in the third world countries we usually disconnect connector from the motor and use the power probe and apply direct voltage to see which direction the piston moved by reversing polarity you'll see the piston moves opposite direction
@@satamanschmidt3428 sorry don't mean to be cold as I am usually in awe of his thought process. But if he would have just followed the instructions it would have just been push the calipers in.
For once, I agree with the dissenting opinions here. I mean, we're all guilty of breezing past service procedures at some point, but it's surprising Ivan would jump the gun on a job like this. This is one of the few cars you don't need a scanner to retract the electronic parking brake. If I see an electronic parking brake, I follow service procedure exactly and I haven't had any trouble thus far.
Sure it's easy when you follow the procedure. But most newer cars have these electronic e-brakes. Is the procedure standard for all of them? Most of them? Any of them? How many procedures are there? Seems technicians will be spending more time doing research then actually fixing anything. I realize this is due to government regulations but does it make the car safer? Is it more likely to have the rear brakes replaced when the car is older? I don't know what value all of this additional complexity and potential points of failure provide to the consumer.
There are different procedures to retract the P-Brake depending on the make. This isn't the government in this case it is the makers themselves, technically the electronic P-Brake was a violation of the laws requiring a separate mechanical braking system, but they got it slipped into the newer laws as acceptable.
Credit to this guy, he's entertaining and charismatic. He did show some really useful tips. Whoever you, if you read this....it'd be cool if you did a full tear-down on one of those mazda epb calipers.
So apparently there are multiple TSB bulletins for the EPB system in 2016 CX-5. I own a 2016 sport model that is 6 speed, so I use the parking brake pretty much every time, and of course when on an incline, put it in gear. Anyhow, back in late November, I took mine to a local mechanic to replace the rear brakes at around 46k miles. Now 2 months later, the EPB has failed. I had two incidents in the same day where when I started the car, the brake wouldn't release and the warning lights were blinking. I had to restart the car multple times before it would disengage. After the second incident, I drove straight over to the Mazda dealership and as it was the end of the day, I had to wait and take a loaner. Anyhow, the next day, after having to calling their field tech/engineer, they reported that the calipers were damaged and blamed it on the mechanic who replaced the brake pads, saying he failed to put it in service mode. I contacted the mechanic and he said it is not possible to replace the pads without putting it into service mode. So now I'm stuck with having to pay over $1000 for a repair. I am pissed!
Hi there, I have the same problem, I just wanted to ask you if this is the procedure to fix the problem 1. Put the car into brake maintance mode, 2. Take of the actuator and disconect it of the conector 3. Turn the litle spindle on the caliper clockwise to pull the piston all the way back 4. Take the car out of brake maintenance mode until the actuator is removed and disconected 5. Conect the actuator to the conector but dont put it back to the caliper, 6. Put the car in maintenance mode so that the actuator spins freely till fully open, 7. Put the actuator back on the caliper and take the car out of brake maintance mode, 8. Erase the errors on the OBD and see if the parking brake work properly.
Golden rule with EPBs is to check the procedure on tech data before starting the job. Plenty of people fall into the trap but I guess that you learn by your mistakes.
A few years back, I read where guys would pull the plug on the electric brake and using jumpers, cycle the brake that way. Then reset the system . I havent done a parking brake job on our Subaru system yet. I wouldnt never charge extra for something I did. Its called learning. Sometimes it can cost you. I ALWAYS read up on anything I am not familure with, especially electric brakes. Yes, you can do the brakes without a scanner. Its called jumper wires. Think old school. One thing I learned reguarding electrical components. Positive is always positive and negative is always negative. No you dont have to do any fancy stuff.
OK, Let me give you low down on the parking brake system: First, don't get excited if something goes wrong - its a pretty stupid logic system and the entire system resets itself by going from Driver Mode to Maintenance Mode and then back to Driver Mode. This just recalibrates the position of the gear system within the caliper and I would recommend its the first thing you do before diving into the caliper piston mechanically. If the parking brakes are still locked (one or both), then its time to dig a little deeper; the Caliper piston is either frozen or the motor does not have sufficient current to drive the gear system back. The latter can be easily tested by remove the motor drive assembly as shown in the video and running the test you have shown. If the motor does turn then start working on the piston. The planetary gearing system within the caliper that the motor turns could be stuck was driven back previously without the car in Maintenance mode. In this case, sorry but you will have to replace the caliper because the teeth of the gears are more than likely damaged and you don't want to attempt to rebuild a planetary gear system. Just make sure the piston's three detents (shown in the video) are clocked in there correct position.
The rule I follow is to look up info first if there is any form of electric parking brake, that being said, my advice isn't going to help people without access to the information. Glad you got yourself out of a pickle, Ivan. 👍
Lol. All you had to do was take the motor off spin it till it bottoms out inward with a 12point torx some are allens.then push the piston in. do the brake job and your done. You just pump the pedal and good to go. I do this for vw, bmw, mercedez, ford, chevy,mazda,infiniti and toyotas for years now. Never ever had a issue
It would have made more sense for the EPB systems to be in retracted mode anytime they're not being actively used. They can then auto adjust to the piston position when engaged or when the car is in motion (because this is both your parking brake and your emergency brake). I would guess some EPB systems are probably "always on unless disengaged", meaning they only release when in Drive, Reverse, or you've selected "Disengage".
The motor is pretty slow, so a full retraction and extension would mean a lot longer to engage and disengage the EPB. This would also increase the motor wear and tear quite a bit. As it is, the motors only retract a couple of turns to return the brake function to the hydraulic system, leaving them close to the piston when it's time to apply the EPB again. I see why they do it this way.
Maintenance mode has to be done on level ground. If the rear is jack up on the car thinks it is on slope road decline and will NOT release the park brake to maintenance mode. To fix reinstall rear wheels and torque then lower back down to get back into maintenance mode, press start button twice, press accelerate pedal to floor past kick down switch while pulling up on park brake switch then press start/ stop button 3 times the park brake light should illuminate to let you know you are now in maintenance mode. Press start button to turn off vehicle then jack up car then do the rear brake job.
Yep..Same as the Range Rover Evoque and others...The song and dance you have to perform is insane.!...Maintenance mode and service should be accessible via a scanner as they want you scan it first anyway...Just sayin'...Soon as I saw the pin on the outer pad I called incorrect placement...Inner pad has pin to locate in the piston and stop it from turning...
My understanding on those is prior to starting the rear brakes, you must engage maintenance mode. Then, one completed with the brake work, disable maintenance mode and all if well. I'm only guessing that Maint Mode simple rotates the motor enough to a preset position so the calipers can be removed. I have to wonder though, if the vehicle is on a steep incline/decline, is that electric motor going to have enough squeeze on the rotor to prevent it from turning? Just how tight does that "Parking Brake" really get on the rotor? Another thing, likely you can't engage it with the car moving so to me thats a defect compared to the mechanical designs. Seems at times the operator of the vehicle would like to engage the brakes for various reasons yet this system may not allow that. Just like the start stop features on new vehicles today, I wouldn't be trusting that idea near a RxR crossing or when off the pavement on dirt roads etc. There are times when brake, engine power and so forth are desired to help get out of situations etc. while not on a paved road in a "perfect world". More about those systems need studied to examine just what some of the negatives amount to.
Hola guebon saludos desde chile Thanks for your video the same thing happened to me and thanks to you I fixed it Greetings from Chile I saved a thousand dollars in Chilean silver
I'm wondering why you didn't just try sticking it in maintenance mode and then taking back out. I wouldn't be surprise if leaving maintenance mode runs a calibration. Seems like it would be a lot less effort than taking everything back apart.
I've got to say Ivan, I'm usually on your side here, but this situation is the consequence of not checking Alldata for 10 seconds. This definitely isn't the car's fault or Mazda's fault. I'm no fan of electronic parking brakes, but at least this car doesn't require a fancy scanner to do the job. Lesson learned, I guess.
What happened to him happened to me and his video helped me a lot. I don't think I am the only one with this corduroy in the world, so if it were not for this video, they will charge me in mazda 1,000 dollars
I know on jaguars you have to use the scan tool to put it into brake changing mode so the pistons can be pushed back in I’m assuming its the same for most cars
It is noting new. In European cars all of them now have EPBs. Where have you been Ivan? The reason was to force people to use mechanic shops more for this kind of jobs.
Gotta do a lil more research before you dive into these!! Mazda made it so easy for us!! Service mode takes seconds and you can even push the piston on by hand with no tools! I do realize that this is a 4 year old Video but before even touching the brakes on my wifes cx5 and then on my mazda6, I made sure to know how to put into service mode and boom... done. TH-cam makes things so much easier but there are forums to use as well. Research before costing extra time and money!!
Never understood the need for electronic parking brake, I can use the handle just fine. Can't wait for it to go wrong while driving and lock the rear wheels!
A bit off Topic but beware aftermarket front rotors for a 2012 and perhaps other years, Kia Soul. After 3 sets we found new ones have Rotor thickness 0.100" too thick and the bracket will not go on. OEM was. 0.925", aftermarket 1.025"
Autonomous vehicles. The OEM,s have been beta testing hardware for years. GM lets there customers test module software through Onstar for quite while also,I imagine the other manufactures do the same thing. It's a brave new world. Follow the money.
Yeah, I have had these give owners trouble and I get called out. Normally when you put it in maint. mode first it will release the calibers so you can just squeeze the piston back in. When owners don't know this and they get it all out of wack, trying to turn calibers. Then I get in the car, Push start twice, hold down accelerator pedal, hold down start button, then press start 3 times. I will attempt to go into maint. mode. The take off caliber, remove electric connector to parking brake, remove the 2 torx bit screw that hold parking brake module onto caliber then take a T40 (or a wrench on some of them) and turn parking brake on caliber clockwise till it stops then squeeze in caliber and re-assemble. Then remove it from service mode (same way as going into service mode except you pull parking brake button up)
I know this is an old video but my wife has this exact year make model. As a foreign car specialist I still Google crap before I do it for the annoying reasons illustrated in your video. Cheers 🍻!
Sorry that happened to you pal, same procedure applies to newer fords as well. DO NOT touch the brakes until in maintenance mode, then simply depress pistons like normal, don't screw them in. I cringed through the whole video, lol. Good job figuring it out though
Kevin Byrne read instructions. it took me literally 30 seconds to google this information and 10 seconds to put it in maintenance mode... proper preparation prevents poor performance... and fucked up brakes.
I replaced the rear pads on a 2016 Mazda 6. No scanner is needed. Here’s how I did the rear brakes in 45 min with no scanner needed: - Removed caliper/pads/rotors - Removed electric parking brake motor on each caliper - Manually fully retracted parking brake - Used a C-clamp to compress piston - Re-installed parking brake electric motor - Cleaned caliper, installed new hardware - With ignition on, apply/release parking brake I searched and searched on how to do rear brakes on these cars and I couldn’t find anything to clearly explain the procedure. After learning how it all works, I decided to try this and it worked flawlessly for me. I know it’s not the “proper” way, but it’s a way that the Mazda was happy with. In fact, I kept in touch with the owner just to verify no further issues with the parking brake and she said all was working well 👍🏽🙌🏽
Hi Bro , your video saved my life :) i was in trouble with my epd after replaced the pads in maintenance mode. I spinned the piston instead of push it and after maintenance it was impossible to get out off the maintenance mode. I ve read a lot of thing on the web and was prepared to lose 3K euros lol but , I tried what you did on your viedo and that worked so thank you man , if you come in France contact me :)
So the purpose of doing it this way is to use the existing calipers and pad for your Ebrake I guess? There still must be redundancy when driving to apply Ebrake too...
This ain't about what works....thats the heavy diesel field....automotive is about money & change brings more money to the dealers, parts suppliers, & scan tool companies.
Actually a clever idea! Might have to resort to that once these systems start rusting up hardcore lol. Scanner should have a bidirictional control to do just that!
@@johnd8651 I just put another comment regarding exactly this, it's just a DC motor so power and ground in one direction extends it and in the opposite direction it allows you to retract the piston! I don't know why people get so freaked out about this is just an electric motor!!!!
if it's already bound tight and you hit power the wrong direction, the motor gears will likely go out to lunch in an instant. pretty sure they wont run that long to come out and apply either, it would likely set a failure code if it didn't sense the current increase of it applying within x seconds. as for it retracting in service mode after applying too tight, likely the same issue too high of start current instant failure code and wont release. I've never tried the above so it's theory! I've given it plenty of thought and since its only 2 wire dc brushed motors it has to reply upon current draw and set run times to limit travel and sense if there's issues.
mikezinck sounds like he knows. I found this on the web and it is a little more detailed. The procedure to put the 2016 Mazda 6 rear breaks into maintenance mode is the following: First, release the parking break, then follow the steps below: 1) Turn ignition on (press ignition button twice !) 2) Depress the gas pedal fully down until you hear a click (keep pedal depressed through the rest of the following steps, DO NOT RELEASE!) 3) Press the parking break lever DOWN (HOLD IT DOWN through the next steps, keep holding the gas pedal down as well!!) 4) Turn ignition OFF (press ignition button once), keep holding the gas pedal and break lever down!! 5) Turn ignition ON (press push button twice!) while still keeping the gas pedal and break lever down. At this time you will see the yellow 'break released' sign somewhere in the upper left corner. You can now turn ignition OFF and release the gas pedal and break lever. After you do the maintenance, you can put the parking break back into active state using the same above procedure, BUT for Step 3 you have to PULL and hold the break level UP. I have tried this few times I had to replace rear break pads on my 2016 Mazda 6 and it always works OK for me.
Ahhh, new technology but at least the cables won't seize. I find that a lot of these systems are simple and you can retract the pistons with jumper wires to the motors depending on polarity but some you have to follow the procedure exactly or it will mess up. Once you mess it up following the procedure exactly is even more important. I'm sure you will remember next time. Another frustrating job. 😊
I bet that these dinky motors will eventually suffer the death of salt water intrusion....then I will have the satisfaction of smashing them to bits with a sledge hammer...or maybe a torch?
Hey, so I’ve got the exact same problem in the shop at the moment, exact same fault codes and drivers side won’t disengage. Have removed the motor from the caliper and wound 2 times but still nothing, any other recommendations by any chance?
I kind of liked the older drum in disc style, reliable and serviceable, sure you had to pull on the handle or step on a pedel, I guess that's too much trouble nowadays
My brake job complication was due to a major parts chain selling me a passenger side caliper in driver side box. Foolish me I never checked the part against the original. The caliper went on great...just the bleed valve is upside down.....I confess it took me a good long while before I noticed the issue, while I was trying to troubleshoot why the brake pedal was suddenly all mushy.
I did rear brakes on my 2017 cx5. I put it into maintenance mode and brake job went smoothly until I tried to take it out of Maintenance mode. It took about 3 or 4 tries to get the P! light to come off and the parking brake to operate properly. Three months later (today) I bring it to the dealer because the P! light came on after changing battery. They tell me the EPB motor on right rear is bad even though the brakes locks and unlocks correctly. Dealer says the only time they see this is when the piston is pushed in without being in Maintenance mode. I hate these freakin’ new cars
![[UNCUT]"ตุลามรณะ"ย้อนฟังคำทำนาย หมอดูทุกสาย ดวงเมืองร้อน (หมอปลาย ฟองสนาน อ.โอเล่)I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/lE5az5VvT9M/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey Ivan I'm a Mazda technician figured I'd throw my two cents in. The Mazda vehicles are some of the few where a scan tool isn't needed and you can do the rear brake job. There is literally no need to use a scan tool. Putting it into maintenance mode is as simple as holding the accelerator all the way down and the park brake button and cycling the ignition until you hear the motors retracting. You'll also see a P! icon in the instrument cluster as well. Then you push the piston straight back. I see lots coming in with the electric motor destroyed because people do not look up the procedure.
Also for anyone reading to talk it out of the maintenance mode it's as simple as pulling up on the park brake button while holding the accelerator all the way down and cycling the ignition 3 times until you hear the motors actuating.
Awesome! Thanks for this! I hope Ivan pins this!
Great info. Thanks for sharing it.
Thanks for sharing but this is still a stupid idea. Damn you mazda
Knocked it out of the park with this information!!
On the bright side, at least they have maint. mode so we can replace pads without scan tool. But yeah, it`s a stupid idea afterall
When a "simple" brake job isn't so "simple" anymore...lesson learned...thanks for the heads up!!
The thing I like about your videos is that you show some of your mistakes instead of only the successes. That's how we all learn from you. Don't let it get you down, your efforts are much appreciated. Thanks Ivan!
Real man don't read instructions..... At first.... Then it's oh boy I think I broke it , I better read the instructions.😂
When all else fails - read the directions.
One day, I decided to quit being a cave man and do "grown up" things, like reading directions ahead of time. And damn, my life got easier.
Facts
lol lol been there!!
Ivan, thank you for sharing your torment. Your attitude is amazing as are your diagnostic skills! Those who have never learned anything "by fire" apparently have not tried anything beyond their comfort level. Kudos!
Ive done so many on vw,jaguars,rovers, fords, Mercedes all using this same design. I remove the motor, spin the spline by hand using a torx bit for example til it stops, the caliper can be pushed in like a normal caliper no twisting required. Very easy, easier than a twist caliper design i think. Activate the e brake a few times and done.
Just read one of Tolstoy's books, War and Peace, whilst viewing your alldata Instructions of the parking brake. Wow.
Thanks for sharing.
Can’t believe you want to charge extra for your mistake
I drive a Tacoma...it has rear drum.brakes...are they perfect....well maybe not but it works. Press down on the foot pedal and set...press on foot.pedal and release. People criticize the Tacoma for being old.school...is that really so bad???? Ivan....you are patient to a fault. The fact you don't even say shit is amazing. Your skills are impressive. Pine Hollow Diagnostics....PHD...clever
Agreed, drum rear brakes are a bit of "old school" kit that aren't bad at all. They worked fine for decades. Don't just assume that newer is better!
only for the rear brakes, which are more like 25% of the braking(varies with weight load) it's not very fun with 4 wheel drum, the fronts heat too fast and fade away like mad.
when I was a teen a guy tried to sell me an old F100 to tow my boat with, manual trans and 4 wheel drum brakes, the pig could hardly stop itself with all 4 working perfect and I passed on that truck. I should have bought it, though still thinking back about I was a dumb-dumb and could have easily converted to front disc and it was in fairly good shape for being in Ohio, old guy had it and literally never drove it in winter, his son didn't want it after he passed (thinking about it still makes me kick myself in the nuts)
@@throttlebottle5906 Very true. I knew a guy years ago with a 1970 Dodge something-or-other, can't remember exactly what, but it had 4 wheel drums. It was kind of scary to drive.
Rear discs are superior to drums in every way. More advanced vehicles apply the rear brake before the front to reduce dive (My 2008 VW Golf GTI does it). Try finding a drum brake system with auto adjusters that really work, gotta love the old handbrake cable that stretches and needs constant adjustment, drums fill with water and then don't work just when you need them, etc, etc. Problem is you get people giving advice on how to work on electric park brakes who don't read the manual.
Should of watched SMA on the procedure of electric emergency brake.lol I have no worries you will figure this out! Keep the great videos coming.
I bought an Autel Maxidiag scan tool specifically because it will retract E-Parking brakes. I guess the main reason they switched was to free up console space for the Quick-E-Mart 40 ounce cup holders.
I have the Autel MS906TS when you go under Service/ EPB Mazda wasnt listed. The Mazda Tech above says Mazda is one of the few you dont need a Scan Tool for the procedure. Maybe they have it in the factory tool?
@@ahill007ny it’s not in the mazda factory tool. You just follow the procedure to go into maintenance mode
Thanks for posting this as my first time doing the rear brakes on my wife's CX5 pretty much went the same way. If I hadn't come across this, I probably would have been one of those people Mike was talking about. I did have to do the manual release step as I accidentally sent the piston the wrong direction without the brake pads in place and thought I'd really screwed up. With a little patience I was able to get the piston compressed and everything reassembled. The rear driver side went about as quick as the front once I knew how to put it in maintenance mode.
Again, I can't thank you enough for posting this. Very important information!
The way I've been doing brake jobs on anything with an electrical parking brake:
1. Un-plug electrical connector
2. Get power probe
3. Use regular NON TWIST IN caliper compressor
4. Apply power to one pin and ground to other.
5. If the Piston begins to retract as you put pressure on it with the tool keep going, if it tries to press against the tool, reverse polarity.
I'm a professional mechanic and have been doing it this way for years and years and have never once run into a problem!
Great tip, thanks for sharing
smart thanks
I hears others say they do it the same way. I agree with your method as others have stated the same thing.
These kinds of videos are priceless, Thanks for sharing the struggle giving some of us a heads up about these kinds of emergency brake systems having not had to deal with them yet.
Brake jobs go more smoothly if you have a Jeep hat and plenty of brake cleaner
Wtf? A Jeep hat?
@@Peter_Riis_DK Go watch South Main Auto.
I’ve learned on newer vehicles, even if someone wants an air filter changed, I ALWAYS check the service info before giving a price!
Smart person!
I feel your pain Ivan! I had a Ford fusion prior to buying the Launch Diag 4, & only had my Snap-On Solus Ultra (13.2) updated. Thanks GOD for Identifix cause i did read the procedure & found that on-board maintenance mode, followed & had no issue! Thanks to Eric O (S. Main Auto) Keith (New Level Auto), & you (Pine Hollow Diagnostics) using & reviewing this advanced, affordable, professional, scanner cause i own it & it paid for itself right out the gate. I'm getting higher end work now & my reputation is growing in my community as a mobile diagnostic professional. Best DIY/Professional videos around between y'all 3.
Thanks Mel,hope X431 diagun IV help you a lot in future.
That's awesome, Mel! Glad to hear your business is going well!
They hire those engineers, so they have to find something for them to do. "Let's screw with the brake system."
Yeah, I figure a lot of this technology that "benefits" us is a make-work project for engineers.
You have to idle it for 24 hrs. Then drive it in reverse for 10 mins at 35mph for it to reset. Goodluck!
A D.
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!
Same procedure for Volkswagen, why not give people technology they want like a huge touchscreen, instead of this shit. STUPID design.
LOL!
I did that. Didn’t fix mine! I now have a sore neck though
@@BOBHANNA01 or how about big buttons and dials I can feel instead of any touchscreen at all
Had to smile on this one as soon as you started saying your problem.
At 6:17 you said you would charge extra. Why would you charge the customer anything extra? You clearly stated it was something you messed up on. this is what really hurts us techs. I know this job is taking more of your time and you are having to remove parts you normally wouldn't. You can't charge a customer for lack of knowledge or training. This is where you take as a self training exercise so you won't have this issue next time. Don't take it wrong your a good tech and I enjoy watching yours and other TH-camrs channels.
Good point...
But are the scheduled work hours on an ebrake longer or equal to traditional parking brakes?
@@chiluco2000 The tech taking on the job should know that information and take it into consideration when quoting the job. In this case the tech presumed it would be just like most other rear brake jobs and got burned. I agree with lee minnis, the tech shouldn't charge the customer extra time to learn what the customer likely assumes they already know when entrusting them with the job in the first place.
In other scenarios where a job overruns due to unforeseeable issues - e.g. finding further broken parts upon disassembly of that quoted for or having to repair some previous asshat's damage to threads that now need helicoiling etc. - then fine, let the customer know and charge extra. But that's not learning, it's just unforeseeable - well, actually it's probably foreseeable that 'something' along those lines could occur so the customer ought to be appraised of that possibility when given the quote. I'm sure it's probably a typical T&C clause when quoting.
While you are correct I believe ivan made that comment off hand. I think he meant charge more initially for the job. When I have something go wrong I go into oh shit mode and it's hard to tell what I would say.
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics yeah I agree. It’s wrong to charge them extra for your mess up. It’s not their fault. I wouldn’t pay you no extra lol
A couple of weeks ago I was lucky enough to actually read the SI after not finding a release procedure in the scanner's menu, same car and model. Looks like it was worth it to look it up😁.
I just did rear brakes on a CX5. TH-cam is a great tool. Every, and I MEAN EVERY video that I watched said to put the rear brakes in maintenance mode. Not doing so would not turn out so well! I guess you proved their point. I also has a Jeep Cherokee with the same procedure. There is a maintenance mode in the settings.
The first mechanic who did my rear brakes didnt perform this procedure and I showed the third this video, but the right wheel still dragging... the car makes a loud noise and the flashing brake light appears on the dashboard after you drive for a while... I cant find someone who can fix this... cheers...
Thanks for this! When I did my rear brakes, I KNEW about the procedure and did it and I didn't twist the caliper when I compressed it but it seems that it twisted a little bit anyway. This seems to have caused my EPB to be slightly engaged while the brake was off and I was driving. Needless to say the smell of burning brake pads was overwhelming. I had to take off the right rear caliper and remove the EPB, then turn the caliper bolt in the direction shown in the video in order to align the caliper correctly. After reinstalling everything, the problem was gone! Thanks again.
I did rotors and pads front/rear on my 2017 CX-5, super easy and DIY friendly as long as you do the maintenance mode procedure. I used a twist style compression tool, i put a brake pad between to minimize twisting. You also have to make sure the notch on the piston align with the pin on the brake pad. I saved ~1000 euro doing it myself, parts included.
Thank you for this video watched it a couple of times and wow it saved me $1000 bucks going to the dealership! All because i turned pistons not allowing repair mode to be activated while changing rear breaks. I learned to make sure the peg on the sisk breaks are engaging the piston also make sure your a couple of turns loose on brake calipers so when electric motors on EPB are engaged it takes little effort to engage calipers. When car goes into service mode EPB motors will turn maybe 5 turns to allow room for replacement of old brake pads.
Be well! Each one teach one!
Sorry for your frustrations but the entertainment value here was through the roof.
Thumbs up for this one, thanks for walking us through it. I know that feeling, well. Glad to see it isn't only me, even skilled professionals have bad days. It's the price of being a generalist.
I like it how you aren't content with just reading the procedure. You keep working with it until you understand HOW it works. I'm the same way with things, if I don't know the fundamentals of how something works I feel like I can't really diagnose with any certainty. Its the same for IT equipment and cars.
Mazda tech here too. Just turn the piston about three times without pressure then push it back the tool. Always turn the piston without pressure and its goes back very easy.
Or maintenance mode as described in other posts.
Spoken like a true mechanic. "This is ridiculous ". "We have to charge extra for this thing."
BONUS FOOTAGE... Ivan takes the car to the Mazda dealer and puts his scanner on ebay.
I would start over put it in service mode. Push both Pistons back in. Toss scanner off to the side. It appears that the two actuators are not in sync. One side is being applied and the other side was released. Good work though man nice video.
Just like a VW. My daughters 2013 CC was pretty easy with a scanner. Service section. Retract E Parking brake. Heard both retract. Changed rotor / pads. Pushed reset E Brake and both motors closed onto the rotor and then released slightly. I agree with you in that no one should need a scanner to change out brakes. Crazy. I'm sure though it saved VW money and a precious few oz's of weight for the blessed MPG Gods..
The Passat - and other VW makes - feature notched pistons, suggesting you would have to twist them back in after releasing the e-brake. In the tool set there is no insert that fits into the notch pattern. Guess what, you push on them straight and they'll retract.
Ivan, Ivan, Ivan, as Eric O would say, "is this amateur hour " ? You gave me a good chuckle, glad it was you and not me !
They are all going that way Ivan. I work at a Ford, Land Rover, Jaguar dealer and all use this system. Land Rover has been using it since 2012. Most manufacturers have a manual way of releasing so you don't need a scan tool.
Just a heads up, something that caught me. The brake pads have a pin on them that locate them into the slots on the caliper piston. If you previously turned the piston, and didnt get it back to 12" oclock position before you re assembled it with the pads, you could have smashed the pin with the piston, making it mushroom out, and then still not fit correctly once you rotate the piston to the correct position. This is what bit me in the ass. I swapped the pad with the smooshed pin to the outside of the rotor and vice versa, made sure the piston was oriented correctly, and BOOM, working brakes.
I love that you posted this, great learning experience for you and for us. There's some good info in the comments about the maintenance mode and about using a power probe to drive the motor. I also love some of the hate in the comments. A wise man once told me, "my haters are my strength!"
Keep it up!
Thanks for the motivation, Joe :)
I'm sorry Ivan but i just had to laugh at the end when you finally got it all working correctly. Just dealt with something like this yesterday fixing fuel lines on a old rusted out Chevy truck. Fix one leak and another one starts. Not electric brakes but just the fact when you think something should be so simple it always come back to bite you. Lol good job!
We will tell our children stories of a time when we could fix our own cars. R.I.P. DIY
Dude it’s a an electric parking brake. Not Tesla lmao
Just did a Jeep Cherokee today. You can enter brake maintenance mode right from the cluster. When u do it retracts the motors. Then u just push the piston back in. Don’t turn just push. Install ur brakes. Then pump up the pedal, activate the parking brake a few times to verify it works correctly and ur done! A lil more work but all in all pretty easy job!
Ivan they can't even leave the brakes alone. For some reason everything has to be electronic. Everything has to be made so complicated. Good video👍👍👍
Educating the educated. RTM, As usual, a good teaching video.
Electric parking brakes. Screw that.
The thing that upsets me about these new E-brake systems is that it's either ON or OFF, no modulation in-between. Definitely a big step back in terms of safety!!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics But.,.. But... But... It's new! It MUST be better! (Can you feel the sarcasm?)
Yeah, f that. Can you apply it while driving? I've completely lost brakes before and got home with the parking brake.
@@volvo09
You haven't tried it yourself? Do it - I dare you. ;)
Parking brakes are only good on manual vehicles anyways. Here in Michigan, NO ONE uses parking brakes. The ones on my Trailblazer rusted away and fell off and had never ever been used. I refused to replace them. What for?
Ivan we in the third world countries we usually disconnect connector from the motor and use the power probe and apply direct voltage to see which direction the piston moved by reversing polarity you'll see the piston moves opposite direction
You buy all the fancy documation and tools then fail to use them and call the system crazy. Maybe use all the stuff you have access to.😀
Man that was cold. Completely accurate, but COLD, REALLY COLD.
@@satamanschmidt3428 sorry don't mean to be cold as I am usually in awe of his thought process. But if he would have just followed the instructions it would have just been push the calipers in.
For once, I agree with the dissenting opinions here. I mean, we're all guilty of breezing past service procedures at some point, but it's surprising Ivan would jump the gun on a job like this. This is one of the few cars you don't need a scanner to retract the electronic parking brake. If I see an electronic parking brake, I follow service procedure exactly and I haven't had any trouble thus far.
Don't worry Ivan. I forgive you. We all make mistakes.
Sure it's easy when you follow the procedure. But most newer cars have these electronic e-brakes. Is the procedure standard for all of them? Most of them? Any of them? How many procedures are there? Seems technicians will be spending more time doing research then actually fixing anything. I realize this is due to government regulations but does it make the car safer? Is it more likely to have the rear brakes replaced when the car is older? I don't know what value all of this additional complexity and potential points of failure provide to the consumer.
There are different procedures to retract the P-Brake depending on the make. This isn't the government in this case it is the makers themselves, technically the electronic P-Brake was a violation of the laws requiring a separate mechanical braking system, but they got it slipped into the newer laws as acceptable.
I should have watched this yesterday. Thanks for the walk through
Credit to this guy, he's entertaining and charismatic. He did show some really useful tips.
Whoever you, if you read this....it'd be cool if you did a full tear-down on one of those mazda epb calipers.
So apparently there are multiple TSB bulletins for the EPB system in 2016 CX-5. I own a 2016 sport model that is 6 speed, so I use the parking brake pretty much every time, and of course when on an incline, put it in gear. Anyhow, back in late November, I took mine to a local mechanic to replace the rear brakes at around 46k miles. Now 2 months later, the EPB has failed. I had two incidents in the same day where when I started the car, the brake wouldn't release and the warning lights were blinking. I had to restart the car multple times before it would disengage. After the second incident, I drove straight over to the Mazda dealership and as it was the end of the day, I had to wait and take a loaner. Anyhow, the next day, after having to calling their field tech/engineer, they reported that the calipers were damaged and blamed it on the mechanic who replaced the brake pads, saying he failed to put it in service mode. I contacted the mechanic and he said it is not possible to replace the pads without putting it into service mode. So now I'm stuck with having to pay over $1000 for a repair. I am pissed!
Hi there, I have the same problem, I just wanted to ask you if this is the procedure to fix the problem
1. Put the car into brake maintance mode,
2. Take of the actuator and disconect it of the conector
3. Turn the litle spindle on the caliper clockwise to pull the piston all the way back
4. Take the car out of brake maintenance mode until the actuator is removed and disconected
5. Conect the actuator to the conector but dont put it back to the caliper,
6. Put the car in maintenance mode so that the actuator spins freely till fully open,
7. Put the actuator back on the caliper and take the car out of brake maintance mode,
8. Erase the errors on the OBD and see if the parking brake work properly.
What is the point of electronic parking brakes? I just don't get it.
More crap to go bad.
Golden rule with EPBs is to check the procedure on tech data before starting the job.
Plenty of people fall into the trap but I guess that you learn by your mistakes.
Mate you are a legend you saved me
From a massive headache
A few years back, I read where guys would pull the plug on the electric brake and using jumpers, cycle the brake that way. Then reset the system . I havent done a parking brake job on our Subaru system yet. I wouldnt never charge extra for something I did. Its called learning. Sometimes it can cost you. I ALWAYS read up on anything I am not familure with, especially electric brakes. Yes, you can do the brakes without a scanner. Its called jumper wires. Think old school. One thing I learned reguarding electrical components. Positive is always positive and negative is always negative. No you dont have to do any fancy stuff.
OK, Let me give you low down on the parking brake system: First, don't get excited if something goes wrong - its a pretty stupid logic system and the entire system resets itself by going from Driver Mode to Maintenance Mode and then back to Driver Mode. This just recalibrates the position of the gear system within the caliper and I would recommend its the first thing you do before diving into the caliper piston mechanically. If the parking brakes are still locked (one or both), then its time to dig a little deeper; the Caliper piston is either frozen or the motor does not have sufficient current to drive the gear system back. The latter can be easily tested by remove the motor drive assembly as shown in the video and running the test you have shown. If the motor does turn then start working on the piston. The planetary gearing system within the caliper that the motor turns could be stuck was driven back previously without the car in Maintenance mode. In this case, sorry but you will have to replace the caliper because the teeth of the gears are more than likely damaged and you don't want to attempt to rebuild a planetary gear system. Just make sure the piston's three detents (shown in the video) are clocked in there correct position.
The rule I follow is to look up info first if there is any form of electric parking brake, that being said, my advice isn't going to help people without access to the information. Glad you got yourself out of a pickle, Ivan. 👍
Ya, charge your customer double then give them a 50% discount. 🤑
Lol. All you had to do was take the motor off spin it till it bottoms out inward with a 12point torx some are allens.then push the piston in. do the brake job and your done. You just pump the pedal and good to go. I do this for vw, bmw, mercedez, ford, chevy,mazda,infiniti and toyotas for years now. Never ever had a issue
It would have made more sense for the EPB systems to be in retracted mode anytime they're not being actively used. They can then auto adjust to the piston position when engaged or when the car is in motion (because this is both your parking brake and your emergency brake).
I would guess some EPB systems are probably "always on unless disengaged", meaning they only release when in Drive, Reverse, or you've selected "Disengage".
The motor is pretty slow, so a full retraction and extension would mean a lot longer to engage and disengage the EPB. This would also increase the motor wear and tear quite a bit. As it is, the motors only retract a couple of turns to return the brake function to the hydraulic system, leaving them close to the piston when it's time to apply the EPB again. I see why they do it this way.
Maintenance mode has to be done on level ground. If the rear is jack up on the car thinks it is on slope road decline and will NOT release the park brake to maintenance mode.
To fix reinstall rear wheels and torque then lower back down to get back into maintenance mode, press start button twice, press accelerate pedal to floor past kick down switch while pulling up on park brake switch then press start/ stop button 3 times the park brake light should illuminate to let you know you are now in maintenance mode. Press start button to turn off vehicle then jack up car then do the rear brake job.
Yep..Same as the Range Rover Evoque and others...The song and dance you have to perform is insane.!...Maintenance mode and service should be accessible via a scanner as they want you scan it first anyway...Just sayin'...Soon as I saw the pin on the outer pad I called incorrect placement...Inner pad has pin to locate in the piston and stop it from turning...
My understanding on those is prior to starting the rear brakes, you must engage maintenance mode. Then, one completed with the brake work, disable maintenance mode and all if well. I'm only guessing that Maint Mode simple rotates the motor enough to a preset position so the calipers can be removed. I have to wonder though, if the vehicle is on a steep incline/decline, is that electric motor going to have enough squeeze on the rotor to prevent it from turning? Just how tight does that "Parking Brake" really get on the rotor? Another thing, likely you can't engage it with the car moving so to me thats a defect compared to the mechanical designs. Seems at times the operator of the vehicle would like to engage the brakes for various reasons yet this system may not allow that. Just like the start stop features on new vehicles today, I wouldn't be trusting that idea near a RxR crossing or when off the pavement on dirt roads etc. There are times when brake, engine power and so forth are desired to help get out of situations etc. while not on a paved road in a "perfect world". More about those systems need studied to examine just what some of the negatives amount to.
Hola guebon saludos desde chile Thanks for your video the same thing happened to me and thanks to you I fixed it Greetings from Chile I saved a thousand dollars in Chilean silver
I'm wondering why you didn't just try sticking it in maintenance mode and then taking back out. I wouldn't be surprise if leaving maintenance mode runs a calibration. Seems like it would be a lot less effort than taking everything back apart.
I've got to say Ivan, I'm usually on your side here, but this situation is the consequence of not checking Alldata for 10 seconds. This definitely isn't the car's fault or Mazda's fault. I'm no fan of electronic parking brakes, but at least this car doesn't require a fancy scanner to do the job. Lesson learned, I guess.
What happened to him happened to me and his video helped me a lot. I don't think I am the only one with this corduroy in the world, so if it were not for this video, they will charge me in mazda 1,000 dollars
I know on jaguars you have to use the scan tool to put it into brake changing mode so the pistons can be pushed back in I’m assuming its the same for most cars
thanks for the video now i know what to watch out for if i run into one of these
It is noting new. In European cars all of them now have EPBs. Where have you been Ivan? The reason was to force people to use mechanic shops more for this kind of jobs.
Gotta do a lil more research before you dive into these!! Mazda made it so easy for us!! Service mode takes seconds and you can even push the piston on by hand with no tools! I do realize that this is a 4 year old
Video but before even touching the brakes on my wifes cx5 and then on my mazda6, I made sure to know how to put into service mode and boom... done. TH-cam makes things so much easier but there are forums to use as well. Research before costing extra time and money!!
Never understood the need for electronic parking brake, I can use the handle just fine. Can't wait for it to go wrong while driving and lock the rear wheels!
A bit off Topic but beware aftermarket front rotors for a 2012 and perhaps other years, Kia Soul. After 3 sets we found new ones have Rotor thickness 0.100" too thick and the bracket will not go on. OEM was. 0.925", aftermarket 1.025"
Hey Ivan, what software/ diagnostic tool are you using?
Autonomous vehicles. The OEM,s have been beta testing hardware for years. GM lets there customers test module software through Onstar for quite while also,I imagine the other manufactures do the same thing. It's a brave new world. Follow the money.
I think I prefer the handbrake on my old Morris Minor, a little while back :)
Yeah, I have had these give owners trouble and I get called out. Normally when you put it in maint. mode first it will release the calibers so you can just squeeze the piston back in. When owners don't know this and they get it all out of wack, trying to turn calibers. Then I get in the car, Push start twice, hold down accelerator pedal, hold down start button, then press start 3 times. I will attempt to go into maint. mode. The take off caliber, remove electric connector to parking brake, remove the 2 torx bit screw that hold parking brake module onto caliber then take a T40 (or a wrench on some of them) and turn parking brake on caliber clockwise till it stops then squeeze in caliber and re-assemble. Then remove it from service mode (same way as going into service mode except you pull parking brake button up)
I did just that and it didn't help. Are you suppose to do this to both sides so that they engage at the same time or does this not matter?
I know this is an old video but my wife has this exact year make model. As a foreign car specialist I still Google crap before I do it for the annoying reasons illustrated in your video. Cheers 🍻!
Sorry that happened to you pal, same procedure applies to newer fords as well. DO NOT touch the brakes until in maintenance mode, then simply depress pistons like normal, don't screw them in. I cringed through the whole video, lol. Good job figuring it out though
More electronic features = more things that can go wrong
Kevin Byrne read instructions. it took me literally 30 seconds to google this information and 10 seconds to put it in maintenance mode... proper preparation prevents poor performance... and fucked up brakes.
I replaced the rear pads on a 2016 Mazda 6. No scanner is needed. Here’s how I did the rear brakes in 45 min with no scanner needed:
- Removed caliper/pads/rotors
- Removed electric parking brake motor on each caliper
- Manually fully retracted parking brake
- Used a C-clamp to compress piston
- Re-installed parking brake electric motor
- Cleaned caliper, installed new hardware
- With ignition on, apply/release parking brake
I searched and searched on how to do rear brakes on these cars and I couldn’t find anything to clearly explain the procedure. After learning how it all works, I decided to try this and it worked flawlessly for me. I know it’s not the “proper” way, but it’s a way that the Mazda was happy with. In fact, I kept in touch with the owner just to verify no further issues with the parking brake and she said all was working well 👍🏽🙌🏽
Hi Bro , your video saved my life :) i was in trouble with my epd after replaced the pads in maintenance mode. I spinned the piston instead of push it and after maintenance it was impossible to get out off the maintenance mode.
I ve read a lot of thing on the web and was prepared to lose 3K euros lol but , I tried what you did on your viedo and that worked so thank you man , if you come in France contact me :)
you have to hold the Gas all the way down and turn it on an off 3 times in 30 secs while pulling the brake lever up , i had this same problem to
So the purpose of doing it this way is to use the existing calipers and pad for your Ebrake I guess? There still must be redundancy when driving to apply Ebrake too...
Seems like the manufacturers think that they can't leave well enough alone, even though things have worked fine for years.
This ain't about what works....thats the heavy diesel field....automotive is about money & change brings more money to the dealers, parts suppliers, & scan tool companies.
Most of the vehicles with electronic parking brake have some sort of maintenance procedure , usually makes the job quicker .
it only backs off a small amount so it doesn't disengage the brake pad pin from piston slot and start rotating.
Are we watching Scotty Kilmer? "Old stuff is better"
Why not just disconnect the electric brake motor's wire harness and back it out all the way with a power probe since it will just adjust itself?
So which way is in or out for the piston?
Actually a clever idea! Might have to resort to that once these systems start rusting up hardcore lol. Scanner should have a bidirictional control to do just that!
@@johnd8651 I just put another comment regarding exactly this, it's just a DC motor so power and ground in one direction extends it and in the opposite direction it allows you to retract the piston! I don't know why people get so freaked out about this is just an electric motor!!!!
@@johnd8651 I guess you just have to watch the pads and if they grip go the other direction lol
if it's already bound tight and you hit power the wrong direction, the motor gears will likely go out to lunch in an instant. pretty sure they wont run that long to come out and apply either, it would likely set a failure code if it didn't sense the current increase of it applying within x seconds.
as for it retracting in service mode after applying too tight, likely the same issue too high of start current instant failure code and wont release.
I've never tried the above so it's theory! I've given it plenty of thought and since its only 2 wire dc brushed motors it has to reply upon current draw and set run times to limit travel and sense if there's issues.
Ivan add Autel EBS301 to your tool collection it makes it so mutch easyer and it is afardable -wort every penny...
With the launch you need to go into the reset menu and select epb and then the manufacturer and you will find the options for retracting the calipers.
Your movie was very helpful and I solved the problem
Thanks
i need parking brake school? my first on a jeep ut to rescue went through dash maint mode. fly by wire brakes crazy!! tanks for the heads up!!
mikezinck sounds like he knows. I found this on the web and it is a little more detailed. The procedure to put the 2016 Mazda 6 rear breaks into maintenance mode is the following:
First, release the parking break, then follow the steps below:
1) Turn ignition on (press ignition button twice !)
2) Depress the gas pedal fully down until you hear a click (keep pedal depressed through the rest of the following steps, DO NOT RELEASE!)
3) Press the parking break lever DOWN (HOLD IT DOWN through the next steps, keep holding the gas pedal down as well!!)
4) Turn ignition OFF (press ignition button once), keep holding the gas pedal and break lever down!!
5) Turn ignition ON (press push button twice!) while still keeping the gas pedal and break lever down.
At this time you will see the yellow 'break released' sign somewhere in the upper left corner. You can now turn ignition OFF and release the gas pedal and break lever.
After you do the maintenance, you can put the parking break back into active state using the same above procedure, BUT for Step 3 you have to PULL and hold the break level UP. I have tried this few times I had to replace rear break pads on my 2016 Mazda 6 and it always works OK for me.
Sounds complicated haha
Ahhh, new technology but at least the cables won't seize. I find that a lot of these systems are simple and you can retract the pistons with jumper wires to the motors depending on polarity but some you have to follow the procedure exactly or it will mess up. Once you mess it up following the procedure exactly is even more important.
I'm sure you will remember next time.
Another frustrating job. 😊
I bet that these dinky motors will eventually suffer the death of salt water intrusion....then I will have the satisfaction of smashing them to bits with a sledge hammer...or maybe a torch?
Wish we could go back to the days of Mayberry when even Gomer Pyle could repair cars.
Hey, so I’ve got the exact same problem in the shop at the moment, exact same fault codes and drivers side won’t disengage. Have removed the motor from the caliper and wound 2 times but still nothing, any other recommendations by any chance?
I’m having the same problem I started the job at 3:30pm is now 1:00am and I can’t figure it out
I kind of liked the older drum in disc style, reliable and serviceable, sure you had to pull on the handle or step on a pedel, I guess that's too much trouble nowadays
Those things are dinky...parking brake never holds well. I'll take real rear drums any day of the week :)
My brake job complication was due to a major parts chain selling me a passenger side caliper in driver side box. Foolish me I never checked the part against the original. The caliper went on great...just the bleed valve is upside down.....I confess it took me a good long while before I noticed the issue, while I was trying to troubleshoot why the brake pedal was suddenly all mushy.
I did rear brakes on my 2017 cx5. I put it into maintenance mode and brake job went smoothly until I tried to take it out of Maintenance mode. It took about 3 or 4 tries to get the P! light to come off and the parking brake to operate properly. Three months later (today) I bring it to the dealer because the P! light came on after changing battery. They tell me the EPB motor on right rear is bad even though the brakes locks and unlocks correctly. Dealer says the only time they see this is when the piston is pushed in without being in Maintenance mode.
I hate these freakin’ new cars
Try resetting it with a scanner