You can also do this fancy equation: Suspension Travel: 175mm Sprung Mass: 950lb Motion Ratio: 0.65 Spring Rate: 600lb/in Preload(inches): 0.4 Bump Stop Height: 2.25in ((175÷25.4)−((950÷0.65^(2)÷600)−0.40)−2.25)÷0.65 That's used to calculate compression travel. Use the answer, multiply it by the wheel spring rate (spring rate x motion ratio squared), and divide the wheel spring mass limit (what you just calculated) by the corner weight to calculate static g force limit (braking/acceleration). L/R g force will require swaybar stiffness to be known. (It rarely ever is) Antiroll Bar Stiffness: 1970lb/in Spring rate: 600lb/in Static g force limit: 0.53 1 is to make the value a whole (((1970*0.65^2)÷((1970*0.65^2)+(600×0.65^(2))))+1)×0.53 0.94 g dynamic force limit This setup uses the bump stops (Swift Bump Springs) on purpose to change driving dynamics at the limit. 😂 But to find the perfect spring you have to corner weigh your car and even then a shit ton of Calcs to really get it right. You'll also learn 8in springs are a bit too short for 3500lb+ cars.
Funny how vids going "These kits have independent height and preload adjustment which is awesome! You can slam your car using the lower ring, and really dial in that spring preload by adjusting the bottom spring perches without messing with your ride height!" get mad views, and guys actually providing valuable info get 300.. great video man, watching thise before installing my first set of coilovers on the track RX8 ✌️
Right my thoughts exactly! Those tutorials get millions of views. The only way to see videos like these is if you already know what you're doing (I typed in "how to set droop on coilovers") but the average person won't know about this and will then say coilovers ride like shit which shouldn't be the case in a well setup system
That's the reason that 2 years after putting a set of bc coilovers on my miata, I realised that I can play with preload and not just set it to the 5mm recommended by the manufacturer (and every other carfluencer:p) Flying Miata made pretty good videos about this, that's how I realised my ignorance !
Nice video. I would recommend having some sort of bumpstop in the rear to protect the damper and ensure the car handles predictably incase of a large enough bump. Best of luck with the car this season.
I'm a hardcore math guy and I understand a lot about suspension, but once the conversation goes beyond preload and ride height and dampening into the droop territory; I become completely lost. It's like this whole droop thing supercedes calculus and trigonometry, which is kind of silly because I passed both of those classes in high school and college.
Bump stop seems to be the worst way to go to manage total roll like you are. Raising the car a touch (since it's probably lowered anyway) and increasing spring rate via stiffer sway or springs to me seems signficiantly more appropriate. Only reason not to would be aero compromise.
Preload is a crutch for soft spring rates vs available travel (see every cheap Chinese coilover). Remove spring, jack up the suspension. If tire hits, change shock body length longee via lower ring. If there's still room to go up, shorten the body length. After all that, you set the ride height via the upper collar only. $10k Penskes don't have "fully threaded" bodies to set preload because the body height is spec'd correctly to begin with. If you set preload how most China coilovers makers say, you will end up hitting the bump stops at different ride heights left vs right. Check out the videos by Annex Suspension and Gears & Gasoline if you want to see the above process gone through.
What I don’t understand about this method is that why adjust for max droop/bump stop when the stiff springs won’t even allow for the shock to fully compress. Also most suspensions geometry/design would probably not allow for this method since springs are so short that it would have massive play or come lose (divorced set up)
@@Shinigami_1320when using linear spring you really should be using helper springs because with a proper set up the spring would be floating at full droop so you need the helper to not damage anything. With a progressive you can get a good setup without helpers. Take a look at KW or any premium brand and you'll see if they use linear they always have helpers. Having "10mm preload" like all these chiense brands say is plain wrong. Cause this causes things like 3 wheeling in hard cornering. A pair of $1000 BC coilovers can ride great once they're set up by someone who knows what they're doing
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for doing this video. This topic is so rarely discussed.
You can also do this fancy equation:
Suspension Travel: 175mm
Sprung Mass: 950lb
Motion Ratio: 0.65
Spring Rate: 600lb/in
Preload(inches): 0.4
Bump Stop Height: 2.25in
((175÷25.4)−((950÷0.65^(2)÷600)−0.40)−2.25)÷0.65
That's used to calculate compression travel. Use the answer, multiply it by the wheel spring rate (spring rate x motion ratio squared), and divide the wheel spring mass limit (what you just calculated) by the corner weight to calculate static g force limit (braking/acceleration). L/R g force will require swaybar stiffness to be known. (It rarely ever is)
Antiroll Bar Stiffness: 1970lb/in
Spring rate: 600lb/in
Static g force limit: 0.53
1 is to make the value a whole
(((1970*0.65^2)÷((1970*0.65^2)+(600×0.65^(2))))+1)×0.53
0.94 g dynamic force limit
This setup uses the bump stops (Swift Bump Springs) on purpose to change driving dynamics at the limit.
😂 But to find the perfect spring you have to corner weigh your car and even then a shit ton of Calcs to really get it right.
You'll also learn 8in springs are a bit too short for 3500lb+ cars.
Funny how vids going "These kits have independent height and preload adjustment which is awesome! You can slam your car using the lower ring, and really dial in that spring preload by adjusting the bottom spring perches without messing with your ride height!" get mad views, and guys actually providing valuable info get 300.. great video man, watching thise before installing my first set of coilovers on the track RX8 ✌️
Right my thoughts exactly! Those tutorials get millions of views. The only way to see videos like these is if you already know what you're doing (I typed in "how to set droop on coilovers") but the average person won't know about this and will then say coilovers ride like shit which shouldn't be the case in a well setup system
That's the reason that 2 years after putting a set of bc coilovers on my miata, I realised that I can play with preload and not just set it to the 5mm recommended by the manufacturer (and every other carfluencer:p)
Flying Miata made pretty good videos about this, that's how I realised my ignorance !
Nice video. I would recommend having some sort of bumpstop in the rear to protect the damper and ensure the car handles predictably incase of a large enough bump. Best of luck with the car this season.
It does, about 3/4” worth of bump stop and even with that fully compressed, we clear everything
I'm a hardcore math guy and I understand a lot about suspension, but once the conversation goes beyond preload and ride height and dampening into the droop territory; I become completely lost. It's like this whole droop thing supercedes calculus and trigonometry, which is kind of silly because I passed both of those classes in high school and college.
Bump stop seems to be the worst way to go to manage total roll like you are. Raising the car a touch (since it's probably lowered anyway) and increasing spring rate via stiffer sway or springs to me seems signficiantly more appropriate.
Only reason not to would be aero compromise.
Preload is a crutch for soft spring rates vs available travel (see every cheap Chinese coilover).
Remove spring, jack up the suspension. If tire hits, change shock body length longee via lower ring. If there's still room to go up, shorten the body length.
After all that, you set the ride height via the upper collar only.
$10k Penskes don't have "fully threaded" bodies to set preload because the body height is spec'd correctly to begin with.
If you set preload how most China coilovers makers say, you will end up hitting the bump stops at different ride heights left vs right.
Check out the videos by Annex Suspension and Gears & Gasoline if you want to see the above process gone through.
What I don’t understand about this method is that why adjust for max droop/bump stop when the stiff springs won’t even allow for the shock to fully compress. Also most suspensions geometry/design would probably not allow for this method since springs are so short that it would have massive play or come lose (divorced set up)
@@Shinigami_1320when using linear spring you really should be using helper springs because with a proper set up the spring would be floating at full droop so you need the helper to not damage anything. With a progressive you can get a good setup without helpers. Take a look at KW or any premium brand and you'll see if they use linear they always have helpers. Having "10mm preload" like all these chiense brands say is plain wrong. Cause this causes things like 3 wheeling in hard cornering. A pair of $1000 BC coilovers can ride great once they're set up by someone who knows what they're doing