Same, did some reading and watching vids and decided for Ender 5 as well, though there is no preset under Cura but I just added it xD. I have upgraded mine with the motor dampers and smoother so far. I 3D printed the smoother bases to hold them in place in the power housing :); also 3D printed the housing of the control panel for the back, my design was a press-on fit and no need for screw, left a .5" hole for the speaker on the back, the design was not perfect as I needed to move the tabs further and possibly a little smoother but it held on. If any of this is of interest I have the SLT files for those 2 designs.
I have the gcode if that saves you the headache of trying your settings and I made it so that it printed very quickly and still strong :) the control box housing I had to pull a little which created a crackline but only because my tolerance was really tight, I believe I ended up just cutting off that crack which was leading towards where the speaker hole was anyway.
Hello Michael, For the top I think the best option would be to install a flat telescopic bellow type seal as those typically employed in sealing linear guides in CNC machines. The movement of the y axis will compress/expand the below and ensure that the top is always covered. You would need to check if this has any negative effects on the printing accuracy due to the additional load in the y axis motors. Looking forward to part 2, hoping to do something similar some day to my Artillery X1!
What a great video. I have ordered a Micro Swiss hot end, Capricorn XS Bowden tube and fittings, SeeMeCNC's EZR Struder and a TH3D EZBoard Lite for an Ender 5 that is not even ordered. I have a stock Ender 5, but am purchasing a second one to mod. Your channel has really helped with what improvements to make. Thanks for all of your work
Cant wait till you do part 2 - I want to see how you solve the top and its effect on noise. Using polycarbonate sheets might be worth considering from a fire point of view.
@ /thing:2012384 I made the lower leg part longer so my Ender 5 will fit on the Z, im printing it right now so I dont know the end result yet. On the X and Y there should be enough room, atleast its sitting on a Lack table right now and it looks big enough.
I'm looking at building an enclosure for my Ender 5 as well. I've seen your design before in other places, but like you, got stuck with covering the top. I think I'm just going to go for a large cover case, for the entire printer, instead of just the acrylic sides. I'll make it big enough to fit over the spool (mounted on the inside of the frame) and x + y motors. I already have the printer on a table I built, that seems to have enough room for a whole enclosure. I also plan to make the front face the only acrylic piece, with plywood (and some sound dampening foam) on the other sides.
Thanks for doing this video, this is exactly what i was wanting to do with my printer! Curious to how you will make a top cover, looking forward to part 2.
Just put a big plastic box over the top that clears all the moving parts. I've tried for a while to have a flexible lid for my ultimaker that accommodates the moving head out of those oven bags used for cooking turkeys. However, at the end of the day it was messy and difficult to service. The solid box lid is easier
Just used your dimensions to do the same on my Ender 5. I just received the sheets I had ordered to be cut to the right size, but the front door panel dimensions are clearly off 🥲 it should probably be 330x400, not 370x400
Wish I read your comment first, dealing with the same issue currently. Took the dimensions from the video but the door one is way too large. Should have measured myself before ordering.
Your videos are a real inspiration... Only amazing teachers do stuff like this. I bet your helping to create heaps of inquisitive little minds. Keep it up.... 🤜🏼🤛🏼🇦🇺🍀😎🤓
No he only wants the money. When we asked personally a question he said only if we send him money first. Then blocked us off facebook all together. Real teachers do it to truly help. This little aussie is just trying to bankroll.
Drone Mechanic is unfortunately dishonest. He messaged a business contact page, offering a healthy reward to fix a problem for him. Was met with an automated response. No one has been blocked from Facebook, the entire page has been deleted and was scheduled from two weeks before, as that's the only way Facebook lets you do it.
And for the record, this was the automated message: "Thanks for your message. This page is for business enquiries only. I have been swamped by requests for personal help, which I cannot provide. Please consider becoming a Patreon or joining a relevant community group". He then replied by saying I would get $150 for helping. If I was all about the money, sounds like an easy pay day for me.
Nice video... So for your door closure I would suggest to add to your door by the handle a magnetic stopper so it keeps the door closed. On the top I would go with a basket design. So you build a wider frame on the top and than you put over it a globe case which fit's just right. With hinges in the back you can just again simply flip it open when you need to work on your unit. And the magnet's I suggest 3 so left corner, center and right will ensure the units is closed and stay's closed and doesn't move around while printing because the 3 magnet's holding it firm enough in place.
For the top what about making accordion style plexy glass. You coulds cut strips then cut slots on them and hold them together with bolts that are just loose enough for them to slide. Use t-slots to attach to the frame on the front and back and figure out a way to attach them the the extruder rail. The front one will need to stand off of the extruder rail enough to allow the extruder to move but will still keep in moat heat. As the extruder rail moves to the front the front accordion plexy will calaps but the rear will extend. Hope that makes sense, it's kinda hard to explane.
Great. Have been printing ABS and HIPS and NYLON a lot with a simple enclosure on my matterhackers pulse. Just 5 poster frames taped together. Now MH ABS still cracks and warps. but Hobbyking ABS and HIPS does not and it smells less. Also print on garolite and Nylon sticks real well Both Taulman bridge, 910 etc and the Hobbyking CX12 with a bed between 90 and 100.
I would make a lightweight lifted canopy for the top cover. It doesn’t need to be form fitted it hmmsut needs to provide a ceiling and be mostly air tight. Some thin plastic sheeting and a lightweight frame to wrap and bobs your uncle. Wouldn’t win any competition or beauty contests but it would satisfy the McGyver in ya.
I think a pet heat lamp mounted above with a canopy style peaked enclosure would do a great job of holding the entire print chamber at a more regulated temperature without getting in the way of the moving parts.
I made a couple of months a mod like that. Although one of the main problems I encountered was that the vibrations of the printer with the acrylic acted as a sounding board. To solve this problem I used a rubber edge (normally used to pass cables) similar to the silicone of the windows. On the other hand, the problem with which I have found is that since the hotbed is at the top on first layers, the temperature at the top of the printer is not kept constant due to air flow, so I can not avoid warping.
Any update on part 2??? Also, have you done anything with the Ender 5 Plus? Would like to see your recommendations on upgrades for that printer and thoughts on enclosing it. Appreciate all you do, very informative and extremely helpful.
A couple suggestions: An iris style hood made from acrylic and old cd's. Looks cool and moves with your hotend Or much simpler, a bubble style hood with an exhaust fan at the tippy top for even heat circulation *And I will also comment on your Senna jacket
Nice Video and thanks for all the shared information! Looking forward to part 2 since i try to figure out, how to create a top cover...the design of ender 5 calls for such an "self enclosed" build!
Great upgrades, I've been thinking of setting up my new Ender 5 to be an enclosure- I got it after watching your review of it, thanks for that video! For the top cover I've been thinking of doing a bending the plastic to be an upside down U shape attached to the top front and back rails and swooping up over the bowden tube, maybe even hinged so I can get access to the bed from the top. As for the top sides this leaves open, having the top piece overhang out past the X axis gantry and then come down before undercutting the gantry back towards to the rails; either attaching to the top cover or more likely separately mounting to the side vertical rails so I can keep the top cover on a hinge. I can't wait to see what you come up with for the top cover. Thank you for all your videos they are amazingly done and a great help for me to understand more of the electronics and programming upgrades out there.
As for a top cover, something removable would be best IMO. You will want easy access to the hot end and be able to remove the finished part easily. I think pins sticking out the sides with a shallow 'box' style cover which would sit on the pins should work decently. However, you will still have an air gap all around. Nothing you can do about that really aside from building an enclosure the whole printer fits into.
I think if you could print some brackets that would bolt to the outside of the top and a slot on the end to hold the plastic sheet you could make a big enough top to place over the unit keeping the heat in the box. I'd still try and move the power supply and the motherboard out side of the box area to keep it cool.
cover the top will be dificult and the more important zone to cover to avoid that all the hot air escape, maybe you can recirculate the hot air from top to the bottom with some fans and maintaing the same temp in all zones. i dont know..
Hello! Good tutorial! Just a detail, if the back plate has 340mm side, would the front plate really be 370mm? It seems incorrect. Wouldn't it be 330mm or something?
I was wondering about that, too. I am planning to build this enclosure, but I am hesitating, because I don't want to buy some expensive panels just to realize they do not fit. :/ Has anyone build this enclosure yet and can share how the panels fit?
@@sonnentaugnu2184 Hello Friend. Yes, I did with the following measurements below, a little differently. 330 x 400 front 380 x 405 sides x2 (In the standard ender 5, the belt runs on the upper internal part of the frame, so the acrylic plate cannot touch the frame at this point) 340 x 410 rear
Great video, Im waiting for the part two, specially for the top of the enclousure... I bought the acrylic and they fit perfectly, but unfortunately, the mesures for the front door are wrong.
Are the measurements correct for the door? Because it should be smaller than the back and not bigger. I've cut the same size and it went over the two posts and not in between.
I know this video is a bit old but I had a question about your side panned installation. Did you have any problems with the acrylic rubbing against the belts inside the slot?
Thanks. BTW have you done anything with your vinyl cutter? There is really very little TH-cam content focusing on procedure with your machine. At least your style is easier to understand.
Maybe an overlapping dome type top cap, or maybe a complete box over the whole thing, because I would assume the hot air rises and slowly stacks to a lower level. Has anyone put heaters in the box to externally heat the print.
I will definitely be doing this to my Ender 5 once it arrives. Although most of my printing is likely to be in PLA, I do plan to do some carbon fibre PLA printing, and any safety enhancements I can make to the machine will be adopted. I'm thinking that a top cover could just be a shallow box as heat won't rise. So as long as the sides of the cover come down past the top rails a bit, most of the heat should remain inside, even with hot end fans blowing etc. I'm thinking about the design and how to mount it as I type.
Bed supports work wonders, I was getting a lot of vibration and it affected my prints. Printed out some similar supports and no more vibration, prints coming out nice. What thickness acrylic did you use?
Since the electronics are in the base of the Ender 5 at what point would you consider moving the electronics outside the enclosure? We put heatsinks and fans to cool these components. Having them in a hot enclosure would defeat these cooling efforts.
Hi good evening Michael. First of all thank you very much for your great material, It's awesome. Could you please advice me where to buy spare parts for Ender 5 Series? I would be very grateful.
Could you do a video how to put a bootloader on the Ender 3 with the Creality BLtouch kit programmer? :) I see some people made it using your files, and you also have the kit. Thanks for the tutorials, have helped me a lot.
Prepare you firmware like usual in Arduino, then when done, go to sketch > export compiled binary. Now follow my instructions from that video to flash the hex that will appear in your sketch folder. There are two, you want the one that has 'with bootloader' in the title.
Michael I couldn't find another way to ask you a question ,im thinking of purchaseing the artillery sidewinder x1 and was curious if you can add auto bed leveling to it thanks
Good morning Planning to build Ender 5 I'm interested in how you built the sides of the printer, or put the walls in the structure? How did you make the door, hinges and lock printed? Own projects or designs? Are you planning a chamber heating and ventilation system (ABS printing)? best regards
I was going to do the same thing when enclosing my printer but instead of acrylic I'm going to use glass mainly because glass won't burn in case of fire.
I believe there is an option built in to Marlin, but I'm not sure how refined it is. Otherwise I'll be setting it up as a fake second hot end, with heater output and thermistor input. This is why the mainboard upgrade is needed.
@@TeachingTech I see, I'll be looking forward to your videos. Another point, bought a BLtouch for my printer and used your tutorials to get it working. I had so many headaches getting it working until you released that recent bug fixing tutorial. Thanks for the great videos!
I was wondering, whether You were planning to test this: www.th3dstudio.com/product/th3d-tough-controller-for-creality-printers/ Once it comes out, it will be a drop-in replacement for Ender mainboards with much more potential.
@@woodwaker1 Yes, but they have also removed the dual extruder support. It would be easier to justify a purchase of a $115 board right after buying a $320 (Ender5) machine, if there would be more potential in it. I think, I will just wait for the reviews before deciding to buy one.
Finally a real 3D printer :) I don't see any use for PLA. But I wished you had chosen the Sapphire S for that modification (and the other ones), because it's frame structure seems to be perfectly made for this, avoiding that movign components on top problem.
I see you are replacing the hot end on the ender 3 & ender 5 printers with all metal hot ends in order to print nylon, carbon fiber etc. Would you by chance know if the ender 3 "PRO" and ender 5 "PRO" come standard with hot ends that do not need hot end modification to print nylon & CF? Also, I am about to purchase my 1st 3D printer and will mostly be printing materials that need to be high strength & rigid. Do you feel the Creality products are up for the challenge? And, since I'm basically looking for strong & rigid vs. nice looking, Would you recommend another printer within the same $300.00 - $600.00 price range? Your assistance with this decision would be greatly appreciated.
For the top, what I plan to do is frame up a box with t-slot extrusions and add plexiglass on each side just like how you did it on your E5. Make the box about 22-23" wide and use pegs to hold it in place with the printer's top frame. Just have to cut some notches so the Y-belts can have the clearance. I just made a box out of foam temporary until it's built and it's working great so far. th-cam.com/video/oKZO6XzxNU0/w-d-xo.html
@@TeachingTech Right, I hope that helps. I can't wait to see the solution you come up with. Your videos have always been helpful when upgrading printers.
Some good ideas but the cover is far too restrictive. You lose access from 3 of the 4 sides and what about the top? All the hot air rises and leaves. What's needed are 4 exterior panels plus a top which can all be assembled easily to each other around the entire printer. Also, why didn't you use the Micro Swiss direct drive extruder? That seems like a no brainer to me. BTW, there's an all metal hot end from a company called GULFCOAST ROBOTICS that looks like a Micro Swiss clone and is less than half the cost
What is the min width that you can get away with on the ender 5 enclosure? My enclosure has a max opening size of 19 1/2 inches. If you relocate spool and controls can it fit the Ender 5?
Nice video. Some sugestions: 1. I would like a doorhandle and maybe an magnet to hold the door closed. 2. Instead of Microswiss hotend I would prefer the Bondtech/Prusa mk3 upgrade in the thingiverse version: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3347150. It seems very easy to make an adapter plate fused with the back side of this extruder to mount it on x-carriage (Sadly I do not have any design skills for now) if you drill some holes and m3 theads in the plate of the carriage. So you would have a geared direct extruder with pencake stepper and use a inductive probe (I will use the PINDA2 as I change the board to an EinsyClone anyway - making the ender 5 effectivly an "mk3s" clone with better kinematic due to moving the bed in x instead of y). For the hotend mostly Trianglelab cloned, but the heatbreak original e3d from Prusa (so the modified e3d for forming tip if you use mmu2s). And of course an wearresistand nozzle from microswiss or a ruby. 3. Some thermal isolation (cork?) at the bottom above the electronic enclosure.
Hmmm...I went through all the trouble to build a lack enclosure for my Ender 3, only to find it prints nylon just fine without it. Too much talk on message boards out there about how nylon really needs and enclosure and even a "fixed bed" printer. Rubbish. I make threaded nylon parts that screw together perfectly. Haven't tried ABS. Also, nobody mentions what a pita it is to deal with an enclosure. It complicates all the maintenance. You're basically working on your printer in a big fish tank. Just changing filament spools turns into a hassle. FYI.
I think an enclosure will definitely reduce the amount of failed prints if someone plans on printing a lot of high temp materials. Sure it's possible but it's about making your life easier. Tho I will agree these typ of enclosures that are built onto the printer seem to be quite a lot of extra work when doing repairs or maintenance on your printer. A enclosure like the lack ones seems to be the better solution. Just place the whole printer into the enclosure and when you need to wok on it you simply take it out
Hello, i've read on thingiverse that the dimensions of acrilic windows isn't exactly correct, can you give me the correct dimensions? Thanks in advance!
I'm currently doing the build(ender 5+), not sure if you'll still need it but here it goes: Interior metal gap (inward to outward) is 1/4 so keep in mind that I measured the outside and then added 1/2 inch. (Except for the front door) 18 x 20 1/8 Front (will need to be adjusted but I'm not there yet) 19 7/8 × 20 3/4 sides x2 18 1/2 × 20 1/2 back Keep in mind that you should atleast take off an 1/8 from each dimension (except front door) that way you get a slight 'wiggle room' for each side. Currently bough one sheet and I did the sides first. Keep in mind that the metal gap is (width) about 1/4 so depending on the width of your acrylic, you may need a U-shape rubber seal to go along the plastic which will make a tighter seal
I know this is off topic but..... I upgraded to the 1.15 silent board and lost my change filament option and auto bed leveling option. i have the upgraded firm ware.is there a way to get it back?
![[LIVE] BABYMONSTER(베이비몬스터) - DRIP | 두시탈출 컬투쇼](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UG05pxLGwzc/mqdefault.jpg)
Awesome!! I got my Ender 5 after seeing your review and am really interested in this upgrade series. Thanks Micheal
Same, did some reading and watching vids and decided for Ender 5 as well, though there is no preset under Cura but I just added it xD. I have upgraded mine with the motor dampers and smoother so far. I 3D printed the smoother bases to hold them in place in the power housing :); also 3D printed the housing of the control panel for the back, my design was a press-on fit and no need for screw, left a .5" hole for the speaker on the back, the design was not perfect as I needed to move the tabs further and possibly a little smoother but it held on. If any of this is of interest I have the SLT files for those 2 designs.
I have the gcode if that saves you the headache of trying your settings and I made it so that it printed very quickly and still strong :) the control box housing I had to pull a little which created a crackline but only because my tolerance was really tight, I believe I ended up just cutting off that crack which was leading towards where the speaker hole was anyway.
Hello Michael,
For the top I think the best option would be to install a flat telescopic bellow type seal as those typically employed in sealing linear guides in CNC machines. The movement of the y axis will compress/expand the below and ensure that the top is always covered. You would need to check if this has any negative effects on the printing accuracy due to the additional load in the y axis motors.
Looking forward to part 2, hoping to do something similar some day to my Artillery X1!
That's an interesting idea, thanks for sharing.
Great idea using the extrusion slots to hold the panels. Any rough cuts would be easily hidden.
And I had a few. The panels were too big to fit on my cheap table saw so my circular saw cuts were a bit rough.
@@TeachingTech what are the sizes for the acrylic sheets please
great list of upgrades!!! now I want an Ender 5! thanks Michael.
What a great video. I have ordered a Micro Swiss hot end, Capricorn XS Bowden tube and fittings, SeeMeCNC's EZR Struder and a TH3D EZBoard Lite for an Ender 5 that is not even ordered.
I have a stock Ender 5, but am purchasing a second one to mod. Your channel has really helped with what improvements to make. Thanks for all of your work
Cant wait till you do part 2 - I want to see how you solve the top and its effect on noise. Using polycarbonate sheets might be worth considering from a fire point of view.
I am doing this with a IKEA Lack rack right now! This is rad to see!
@ /thing:2012384 I made the lower leg part longer so my Ender 5 will fit on the Z, im printing it right now so I dont know the end result yet. On the X and Y there should be enough room, atleast its sitting on a Lack table right now and it looks big enough.
I'm looking at building an enclosure for my Ender 5 as well. I've seen your design before in other places, but like you, got stuck with covering the top. I think I'm just going to go for a large cover case, for the entire printer, instead of just the acrylic sides. I'll make it big enough to fit over the spool (mounted on the inside of the frame) and x + y motors. I already have the printer on a table I built, that seems to have enough room for a whole enclosure. I also plan to make the front face the only acrylic piece, with plywood (and some sound dampening foam) on the other sides.
Thanks for doing this video, this is exactly what i was wanting to do with my printer! Curious to how you will make a top cover, looking forward to part 2.
Just found your channel. Great job man you do good work. Looking forward to part 2.
Just put a big plastic box over the top that clears all the moving parts. I've tried for a while to have a flexible lid for my ultimaker that accommodates the moving head out of those oven bags used for cooking turkeys. However, at the end of the day it was messy and difficult to service. The solid box lid is easier
Just used your dimensions to do the same on my Ender 5. I just received the sheets I had ordered to be cut to the right size, but the front door panel dimensions are clearly off 🥲 it should probably be 330x400, not 370x400
Wish I read your comment first, dealing with the same issue currently. Took the dimensions from the video but the door one is way too large. Should have measured myself before ordering.
Your videos are a real inspiration... Only amazing teachers do stuff like this. I bet your helping to create heaps of inquisitive little minds. Keep it up.... 🤜🏼🤛🏼🇦🇺🍀😎🤓
No he only wants the money. When we asked personally a question he said only if we send him money first. Then blocked us off facebook all together. Real teachers do it to truly help. This little aussie is just trying to bankroll.
Really... That’s bloody deplorable and goes totally against anything I said.
Drone Mechanic is unfortunately dishonest. He messaged a business contact page, offering a healthy reward to fix a problem for him. Was met with an automated response. No one has been blocked from Facebook, the entire page has been deleted and was scheduled from two weeks before, as that's the only way Facebook lets you do it.
And for the record, this was the automated message: "Thanks for your message. This page is for business enquiries only. I have been swamped by requests for personal help, which I cannot provide. Please consider becoming a Patreon or joining a relevant community group". He then replied by saying I would get $150 for helping. If I was all about the money, sounds like an easy pay day for me.
Nice video... So for your door closure I would suggest to add to your door by the handle a magnetic stopper so it keeps the door closed.
On the top I would go with a basket design. So you build a wider frame on the top and than you put over it a globe case which fit's just right. With hinges in the back you can just again simply flip it open when you need to work on your unit. And the magnet's I suggest 3 so left corner, center and right will ensure the units is closed and stay's closed and doesn't move around while printing because the 3 magnet's holding it firm enough in place.
For the top what about making accordion style plexy glass. You coulds cut strips then cut slots on them and hold them together with bolts that are just loose enough for them to slide. Use t-slots to attach to the frame on the front and back and figure out a way to attach them the the extruder rail. The front one will need to stand off of the extruder rail enough to allow the extruder to move but will still keep in moat heat.
As the extruder rail moves to the front the front accordion plexy will calaps but the rear will extend. Hope that makes sense, it's kinda hard to explane.
Great. Have been printing ABS and HIPS and NYLON a lot with a simple enclosure on my matterhackers pulse. Just 5 poster frames taped together. Now MH ABS still cracks and warps. but Hobbyking ABS and HIPS does not and it smells less. Also print on garolite and Nylon sticks real well Both Taulman bridge, 910 etc and the Hobbyking CX12 with a bed between 90 and 100.
I would make a lightweight lifted canopy for the top cover. It doesn’t need to be form fitted it hmmsut needs to provide a ceiling and be mostly air tight. Some thin plastic sheeting and a lightweight frame to wrap and bobs your uncle. Wouldn’t win any competition or beauty contests but it would satisfy the McGyver in ya.
I think a pet heat lamp mounted above with a canopy style peaked enclosure would do a great job of holding the entire print chamber at a more regulated temperature without getting in the way of the moving parts.
I made a couple of months a mod like that. Although one of the main problems I encountered was that the vibrations of the printer with the acrylic acted as a sounding board. To solve this problem I used a rubber edge (normally used to pass cables) similar to the silicone of the windows.
On the other hand, the problem with which I have found is that since the hotbed is at the top on first layers, the temperature at the top of the printer is not kept constant due to air flow, so I can not avoid warping.
Any update on part 2??? Also, have you done anything with the Ender 5 Plus? Would like to see your recommendations on upgrades for that printer and thoughts on enclosing it. Appreciate all you do, very informative and extremely helpful.
A couple suggestions:
An iris style hood made from acrylic and old cd's. Looks cool and moves with your hotend
Or much simpler, a bubble style hood with an exhaust fan at the tippy top for even heat circulation
*And I will also comment on your Senna jacket
Great and interesting suggestions, thank you.
Nice Video and thanks for all the shared information! Looking forward to part 2 since i try to figure out, how to create a top cover...the design of ender 5 calls for such an "self enclosed" build!
Great upgrades, I've been thinking of setting up my new Ender 5 to be an enclosure- I got it after watching your review of it, thanks for that video! For the top cover I've been thinking of doing a bending the plastic to be an upside down U shape attached to the top front and back rails and swooping up over the bowden tube, maybe even hinged so I can get access to the bed from the top. As for the top sides this leaves open, having the top piece overhang out past the X axis gantry and then come down before undercutting the gantry back towards to the rails; either attaching to the top cover or more likely separately mounting to the side vertical rails so I can keep the top cover on a hinge. I can't wait to see what you come up with for the top cover. Thank you for all your videos they are amazingly done and a great help for me to understand more of the electronics and programming upgrades out there.
As for a top cover, something removable would be best IMO. You will want easy access to the hot end and be able to remove the finished part easily. I think pins sticking out the sides with a shallow 'box' style cover which would sit on the pins should work decently. However, you will still have an air gap all around. Nothing you can do about that really aside from building an enclosure the whole printer fits into.
I think if you could print some brackets that would bolt to the outside of the top and a slot on the end to hold the plastic sheet you could make a big enough top to place over the unit keeping the heat in the box. I'd still try and move the power supply and the motherboard out side of the box area to keep it cool.
Any ETA on part 2?
Lets talk about the Senna gear you're wearing. I want it!
Picked it up when at the Aus GP earlier in the year.
@@TeachingTech I've seen guys 3d printing (TPU?) onto t-shirts. Let's print some Senna gear on a future vid! 😄
This video will be tagged and saved. I have this Ender and love it. 👍✌🖖🥃
I too am anxious to see the part 2 of this mod for the Ender 5 Plus my customer has ordered....
look at accordion or bellows type “way covers” for ideas for the top
I've seen a brush type the Y can plus out the way
cover the top will be dificult and the more important zone to cover to avoid that all the hot air escape, maybe you can recirculate the hot air from top to the bottom with some fans and maintaing the same temp in all zones. i dont know..
That is an original idea, thanks for sharing.
Try putting a titan aqua on it with an upgraded hotend and thermistor
Awesome .... that is the way I want my Ender 5 to go.
Hello! Good tutorial! Just a detail, if the back plate has 340mm side, would the front plate really be 370mm? It seems incorrect. Wouldn't it be 330mm or something?
I was wondering about that, too. I am planning to build this enclosure, but I am hesitating, because I don't want to buy some expensive panels just to realize they do not fit. :/
Has anyone build this enclosure yet and can share how the panels fit?
@@sonnentaugnu2184 Hello Friend.
Yes, I did with the following measurements below, a little differently.
330 x 400 front
380 x 405 sides x2 (In the standard ender 5, the belt runs on the upper internal part of the frame, so the acrylic plate cannot touch the frame at this point)
340 x 410 rear
Thank you @@igorterra1444 !
Yeah that makes sense. I will try those measurements for my panels. :)
"Oh well at least i know i haven't made it any worse" = IM KEEPIN IT ON ! Same way mate !!! :) thanks for the video !
How about a flexible cover? Something that has slats that slide over each other as the Y-axis moves back and forth, like an escalator.
That would be very cool but I don't think I have to time to develop it.
Great video, Im waiting for the part two, specially for the top of the enclousure... I bought the acrylic and they fit perfectly, but unfortunately, the mesures for the front door are wrong.
Yes how did u fix that?
i always do the robot dance on the intro
Are the measurements correct for the door? Because it should be smaller than the back and not bigger. I've cut the same size and it went over the two posts and not in between.
The door is incorrect. His dimensions are too large. The back and sides fit perfectly but I’ll have to cut the door down to fit
I know this video is a bit old but I had a question about your side panned installation. Did you have any problems with the acrylic rubbing against the belts inside the slot?
Thanks. BTW have you done anything with your vinyl cutter? There is really very little TH-cam content focusing on procedure with your machine. At least your style is easier to understand.
I've used it with my students at school from time to time. No big projects of my own though.
To seal the top try 2 long soft bristled broom heads on both of the moving sides printed corner brackets with acrylic top front and back ?
Maybe an overlapping dome type top cap, or maybe a complete box over the whole thing, because I would assume the hot air rises and slowly stacks to a lower level. Has anyone put heaters in the box to externally heat the print.
I really liked your sweatshirt, From Brazil
I will definitely be doing this to my Ender 5 once it arrives. Although most of my printing is likely to be in PLA, I do plan to do some carbon fibre PLA printing, and any safety enhancements I can make to the machine will be adopted. I'm thinking that a top cover could just be a shallow box as heat won't rise. So as long as the sides of the cover come down past the top rails a bit, most of the heat should remain inside, even with hot end fans blowing etc. I'm thinking about the design and how to mount it as I type.
Bed supports work wonders, I was getting a lot of vibration and it affected my prints. Printed out some similar supports and no more vibration, prints coming out nice. What thickness acrylic did you use?
love that hoody dude!
Since the electronics are in the base of the Ender 5 at what point would you consider moving the electronics outside the enclosure? We put heatsinks and fans to cool these components. Having them in a hot enclosure would defeat these cooling efforts.
I think if it becomes an issue, a inlet duct from the bottom of the printer could be used so cooler air were being drawn in.
Mine came with the red aluminum extruder and I think it's cap tubing but I have no idea it just looks like a blue tube to me
Hi good evening Michael. First of all thank you very much for your great material, It's awesome. Could you please advice me where to buy spare parts for Ender 5 Series? I would be very grateful.
Could you do a video how to put a bootloader on the Ender 3 with the Creality BLtouch kit programmer? :) I see some people made it using your files, and you also have the kit. Thanks for the tutorials, have helped me a lot.
Prepare you firmware like usual in Arduino, then when done, go to sketch > export compiled binary. Now follow my instructions from that video to flash the hex that will appear in your sketch folder. There are two, you want the one that has 'with bootloader' in the title.
@@TeachingTech ok thank you :)
Michael I couldn't find another way to ask you a question ,im thinking of purchaseing the artillery sidewinder x1 and was curious if you can add auto bed leveling to it thanks
Recently made a video on that, with options to add BLtouch or Touch Mi.
also what is your opinion of the sidewinder or cr - 10s
Bela blusa! Grande Ayrton!
i want the part 2 :D
Me too!
Beautiful tribute to our idol Ayrton Senna, Tks.😉😉🤝🏎🏎
Your Tips have already helped me a lot, including with the CR-30, @l3dfigures
Good morning
Planning to build Ender 5 I'm interested in how you built the sides of the printer, or put the walls in the structure?
How did you make the door, hinges and lock printed?
Own projects or designs?
Are you planning a chamber heating and ventilation system (ABS printing)?
best regards
I was going to do the same thing when enclosing my printer but instead of acrylic I'm going to use glass mainly because glass won't burn in case of fire.
Good start :-)
Thanks for sharing :-)
I want to see what chamber heater you use. I need to build a chamber for my ender 3 so I can print without worries of off gassing or hydroscopicity
I believe there is an option built in to Marlin, but I'm not sure how refined it is. Otherwise I'll be setting it up as a fake second hot end, with heater output and thermistor input. This is why the mainboard upgrade is needed.
@@TeachingTech I see, I'll be looking forward to your videos. Another point, bought a BLtouch for my printer and used your tutorials to get it working. I had so many headaches getting it working until you released that recent bug fixing tutorial. Thanks for the great videos!
I sub'd just because of the sweater.
Excellent Video!
What kind of mainboard are You planning to install?
At this stage an MKS Gen L.
I was wondering, whether You were planning to test this: www.th3dstudio.com/product/th3d-tough-controller-for-creality-printers/
Once it comes out, it will be a drop-in replacement for Ender mainboards with much more potential.
@@szabolcspahan1277 They just started taking pre-orders. I hope to have mine by 6-14 or shortly after. The price is also better $ 90
@@woodwaker1 Yes, but they have also removed the dual extruder support. It would be easier to justify a purchase of a $115 board right after buying a $320 (Ender5) machine, if there would be more potential in it. I think, I will just wait for the reviews before deciding to buy one.
Chears from Brazil
Finally a real 3D printer :) I don't see any use for PLA. But I wished you had chosen the Sapphire S for that modification (and the other ones), because it's frame structure seems to be perfectly made for this, avoiding that movign components on top problem.
excellent, thanks
OooOOooohhh tell me more about that LED, Tech daddy.
Maybe the IKEA LACK enclosure would work for this printer
how thick is the acrylic sheet?
I see you are replacing the hot end on the ender 3 & ender 5 printers with all metal hot ends in order to print nylon, carbon fiber etc. Would you by chance know if the ender 3 "PRO" and ender 5 "PRO" come standard with hot ends that do not need hot end modification to print nylon & CF? Also, I am about to purchase my 1st 3D printer and will mostly be printing materials that need to be high strength & rigid. Do you feel the Creality products are up for the challenge? And, since I'm basically looking for strong & rigid vs. nice looking, Would you recommend another printer within the same $300.00 - $600.00 price range? Your assistance with this decision would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.!
cool!
Awesome
hello sir,
micro swiss hot end is essential for ender 5 pro printer to print ABS .
when next part xD cant wait for it
So many videos to make, so little time! Hopefully within the next few weeks.
You talked about acetone washing do you have a video on how to do this and for how long?
Now you done the ender v think you can do the tronxy 5xs
Ya I would like to see this too
For the top, what I plan to do is frame up a box with t-slot extrusions and add plexiglass on each side just like how you did it on your E5. Make the box about 22-23" wide and use pegs to hold it in place with the printer's top frame. Just have to cut some notches so the Y-belts can have the clearance. I just made a box out of foam temporary until it's built and it's working great so far.
th-cam.com/video/oKZO6XzxNU0/w-d-xo.html
That is similar to what I'm thinking, except I'm going to have the sides come down lower, past the moving components.
@@TeachingTech Right, I hope that helps. I can't wait to see the solution you come up with. Your videos have always been helpful when upgrading printers.
It is the Ender 3
Do the side covers rub against the belts?
I have 2 cats, so I was thinking of doing this enclosure on the sides, to keep cat hair out. Any problems you’ve had since adding the walls?
Ayrton Senna do Brasil! haha
Dear instructor how do you do with the BLtouch
i enclosed and at the firts time was burning out!
I'm really curious if you're still using this printer, and how it's holding up.
It's going to be hard for a top enclosure, but does it make a difference?
I would assume its a crucial part as heat rises upwards, so you would be loosing a lot of heat without a top cover.
Some good ideas but the cover is far too restrictive. You lose access from 3 of the 4 sides and what about the top? All the hot air rises and leaves. What's needed are 4 exterior panels plus a top which can all be assembled easily to each other around the entire printer. Also, why didn't you use the Micro Swiss direct drive extruder? That seems like a no brainer to me. BTW, there's an all metal hot end from a company called GULFCOAST ROBOTICS that looks like a Micro Swiss clone and is less than half the cost
What's the thickness of acrylic?
does it matter that the electronics are now in the higher heat ?
Do you list the measurements of the acrylic sheets anywhere that I can reference?
still waiting for the part 2...?
hey what about the wham bam bed compared to the creality PEI bed?
What is the min width that you can get away with on the ender 5 enclosure? My enclosure has a max opening size of 19 1/2 inches. If you relocate spool and controls can it fit the Ender 5?
Nice video.
Some sugestions:
1. I would like a doorhandle and maybe an magnet to hold the door closed.
2. Instead of Microswiss hotend I would prefer the Bondtech/Prusa mk3 upgrade in the thingiverse version: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3347150. It seems very easy to make an adapter plate fused with the back side of this extruder to mount it on x-carriage (Sadly I do not have any design skills for now) if you drill some holes and m3 theads in the plate of the carriage. So you would have a geared direct extruder with pencake stepper and use a inductive probe (I will use the PINDA2 as I change the board to an EinsyClone anyway - making the ender 5 effectivly an "mk3s" clone with better kinematic due to moving the bed in x instead of y). For the hotend mostly Trianglelab cloned, but the heatbreak original e3d from Prusa (so the modified e3d for forming tip if you use mmu2s). And of course an wearresistand nozzle from microswiss or a ruby.
3. Some thermal isolation (cork?) at the bottom above the electronic enclosure.
can you send the link to part 2 please
When is part 2 coming out?
Hmmm...I went through all the trouble to build a lack enclosure for my Ender 3, only to find it prints nylon just fine without it. Too much talk on message boards out there about how nylon really needs and enclosure and even a "fixed bed" printer. Rubbish. I make threaded nylon parts that screw together perfectly. Haven't tried ABS.
Also, nobody mentions what a pita it is to deal with an enclosure. It complicates all the maintenance. You're basically working on your printer in a big fish tank. Just changing filament spools turns into a hassle. FYI.
Doug Johnson
What brand of nylon filament does this work for? Remember that every manufacturer (and even each production run) will vary in properties.
I think an enclosure will definitely reduce the amount of failed prints if someone plans on printing a lot of high temp materials. Sure it's possible but it's about making your life easier.
Tho I will agree these typ of enclosures that are built onto the printer seem to be quite a lot of extra work when doing repairs or maintenance on your printer. A enclosure like the lack ones seems to be the better solution. Just place the whole printer into the enclosure and when you need to wok on it you simply take it out
I used to print ABS exclusively on my Solidoodle Pro and the part quality was greatly improved when I added an enclosure.
Hello, i've read on thingiverse that the dimensions of acrilic windows isn't exactly correct, can you give me the correct dimensions? Thanks in advance!
I'm currently doing the build(ender 5+), not sure if you'll still need it but here it goes:
Interior metal gap (inward to outward) is 1/4 so keep in mind that I measured the outside and then added 1/2 inch. (Except for the front door)
18 x 20 1/8 Front (will need to be adjusted but I'm not there yet)
19 7/8 × 20 3/4 sides x2
18 1/2 × 20 1/2 back
Keep in mind that you should atleast take off an 1/8 from each dimension (except front door) that way you get a slight 'wiggle room' for each side. Currently bough one sheet and I did the sides first. Keep in mind that the metal gap is (width) about 1/4 so depending on the width of your acrylic, you may need a U-shape rubber seal to go along the plastic which will make a tighter seal
Why no part 2? It has been more than 3 months now...
I know this is off topic but..... I upgraded to the 1.15 silent board and lost my change filament option and auto bed leveling option. i have the upgraded firm ware.is there a way to get it back?
What infill percentage is best to use, for the Ender 5 bed support struts?
Thanks
What it the maximum enclosure temperature you've taken the ender 5 up to?
1 word, Voron 2.1 ;)