Enclosed Ender 5 for high temp filaments - Part 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 พ.ค. 2024
- The cube frame of the Creality Ender 5 makes it almost ideal for converting into an enclosed 3D printer for printing ABS, nylon and polycarbonate. In part one of this series, I fit a range of parts to achieve this goal. These mods don't require any firmware changes and some are free.
All of the basics are in place, so in the next part I will change the mainboard and implement a heated chamber. I'll also try and enclose the top to prevent the heat from escaping. Suggestions are very welcome for that one!
Many Ender 5 upgrades are the same as th Ender 3, please see the referenced videos below.
Purchase the Ender 5 from these links:
Amazon: amzn.to/2SApPXG
Banggood (code en3d501 ): www.banggood.com/custlink/33D...
eBay: ebay.to/2CUThSV
Creality: bit.ly/2VwMAfy
Ender 5 bed support struts: www.thingiverse.com/thing:347...
2020 hinge (I used 2 x ‘mod 1’ and 1 x ‘mod 2’ per set: www.thingiverse.com/thing:251...
Mistral E fan duct: www.thingiverse.com/thing:325...
Wham Bam shop (select Ender 3/5 kit): bit.ly/2HqxpB5
Microswiss all-metal hot end (select Ender 3): Microswiss CR-10/Ender 3/Ender 5/Tevo Tornado all metal hot end: amzn.to/2E8TmUO
Capricorn Tubing (plenty of spares of each of these after fitting to the printer):
1m XS PTFE tube on Amazon ($14.50): amzn.to/2wsV2lR
PC4-M6 and PC4-M10 connectors (10 of each for $14): amzn.to/2ykFykM
Cooling fan torture test: www.thingiverse.com/thing:316...
Guides referenced in this video:
Ender 5 bootloader flash and latestMarlin update: • Ender 5 bootloader and...
Ender 5 BLtouch: • Ender 5 BLtouch guide ...
Ender 3/5 Micro Swiss all metal hot end: • Ender 3 Micro Swiss al...
Ender 3/5 WhamBam flexible build system: • Wham Bam Flexible Buil...
Ender 3/5 EZR extruder: • EZR extruder tested on...
Capricorn tube guide: • Upgrading Ender 3 PTFE...
Printing ABS in an open frame machine: • Printing ABS with an o...
Buy quality and affordable filament from X3D. Buy 3, get 1 free and a free sample pack with every order: www.x3d.com.au
Take a look around and if you like what you see, please subscribe.
Support me on Patreon: / teachingtech
#3dprinting #ender5 #upgrades
What a great video. I have ordered a Micro Swiss hot end, Capricorn XS Bowden tube and fittings, SeeMeCNC's EZR Struder and a TH3D EZBoard Lite for an Ender 5 that is not even ordered.
I have a stock Ender 5, but am purchasing a second one to mod. Your channel has really helped with what improvements to make. Thanks for all of your work
great list of upgrades!!! now I want an Ender 5! thanks Michael.
Thanks for doing this video, this is exactly what i was wanting to do with my printer! Curious to how you will make a top cover, looking forward to part 2.
Cant wait till you do part 2 - I want to see how you solve the top and its effect on noise. Using polycarbonate sheets might be worth considering from a fire point of view.
Nice Video and thanks for all the shared information! Looking forward to part 2 since i try to figure out, how to create a top cover...the design of ender 5 calls for such an "self enclosed" build!
I'm looking at building an enclosure for my Ender 5 as well. I've seen your design before in other places, but like you, got stuck with covering the top. I think I'm just going to go for a large cover case, for the entire printer, instead of just the acrylic sides. I'll make it big enough to fit over the spool (mounted on the inside of the frame) and x + y motors. I already have the printer on a table I built, that seems to have enough room for a whole enclosure. I also plan to make the front face the only acrylic piece, with plywood (and some sound dampening foam) on the other sides.
Great upgrades, I've been thinking of setting up my new Ender 5 to be an enclosure- I got it after watching your review of it, thanks for that video! For the top cover I've been thinking of doing a bending the plastic to be an upside down U shape attached to the top front and back rails and swooping up over the bowden tube, maybe even hinged so I can get access to the bed from the top. As for the top sides this leaves open, having the top piece overhang out past the X axis gantry and then come down before undercutting the gantry back towards to the rails; either attaching to the top cover or more likely separately mounting to the side vertical rails so I can keep the top cover on a hinge. I can't wait to see what you come up with for the top cover. Thank you for all your videos they are amazingly done and a great help for me to understand more of the electronics and programming upgrades out there.
Just found your channel. Great job man you do good work. Looking forward to part 2.
Awesome!! I got my Ender 5 after seeing your review and am really interested in this upgrade series. Thanks Micheal
Same, did some reading and watching vids and decided for Ender 5 as well, though there is no preset under Cura but I just added it xD. I have upgraded mine with the motor dampers and smoother so far. I 3D printed the smoother bases to hold them in place in the power housing :); also 3D printed the housing of the control panel for the back, my design was a press-on fit and no need for screw, left a .5" hole for the speaker on the back, the design was not perfect as I needed to move the tabs further and possibly a little smoother but it held on. If any of this is of interest I have the SLT files for those 2 designs.
I have the gcode if that saves you the headache of trying your settings and I made it so that it printed very quickly and still strong :) the control box housing I had to pull a little which created a crackline but only because my tolerance was really tight, I believe I ended up just cutting off that crack which was leading towards where the speaker hole was anyway.
Great idea using the extrusion slots to hold the panels. Any rough cuts would be easily hidden.
And I had a few. The panels were too big to fit on my cheap table saw so my circular saw cuts were a bit rough.
@@TeachingTech what are the sizes for the acrylic sheets please
I made a couple of months a mod like that. Although one of the main problems I encountered was that the vibrations of the printer with the acrylic acted as a sounding board. To solve this problem I used a rubber edge (normally used to pass cables) similar to the silicone of the windows.
On the other hand, the problem with which I have found is that since the hotbed is at the top on first layers, the temperature at the top of the printer is not kept constant due to air flow, so I can not avoid warping.
I too am anxious to see the part 2 of this mod for the Ender 5 Plus my customer has ordered....
Great. Have been printing ABS and HIPS and NYLON a lot with a simple enclosure on my matterhackers pulse. Just 5 poster frames taped together. Now MH ABS still cracks and warps. but Hobbyking ABS and HIPS does not and it smells less. Also print on garolite and Nylon sticks real well Both Taulman bridge, 910 etc and the Hobbyking CX12 with a bed between 90 and 100.
Bela blusa! Grande Ayrton!
Any update on part 2??? Also, have you done anything with the Ender 5 Plus? Would like to see your recommendations on upgrades for that printer and thoughts on enclosing it. Appreciate all you do, very informative and extremely helpful.
i always do the robot dance on the intro
I am doing this with a IKEA Lack rack right now! This is rad to see!
@ /thing:2012384 I made the lower leg part longer so my Ender 5 will fit on the Z, im printing it right now so I dont know the end result yet. On the X and Y there should be enough room, atleast its sitting on a Lack table right now and it looks big enough.
To seal the top try 2 long soft bristled broom heads on both of the moving sides printed corner brackets with acrylic top front and back ?
Hello Michael,
For the top I think the best option would be to install a flat telescopic bellow type seal as those typically employed in sealing linear guides in CNC machines. The movement of the y axis will compress/expand the below and ensure that the top is always covered. You would need to check if this has any negative effects on the printing accuracy due to the additional load in the y axis motors.
Looking forward to part 2, hoping to do something similar some day to my Artillery X1!
That's an interesting idea, thanks for sharing.
I will definitely be doing this to my Ender 5 once it arrives. Although most of my printing is likely to be in PLA, I do plan to do some carbon fibre PLA printing, and any safety enhancements I can make to the machine will be adopted. I'm thinking that a top cover could just be a shallow box as heat won't rise. So as long as the sides of the cover come down past the top rails a bit, most of the heat should remain inside, even with hot end fans blowing etc. I'm thinking about the design and how to mount it as I type.
Awesome .... that is the way I want my Ender 5 to go.
I think a pet heat lamp mounted above with a canopy style peaked enclosure would do a great job of holding the entire print chamber at a more regulated temperature without getting in the way of the moving parts.
Good start :-)
Thanks for sharing :-)
Your videos are a real inspiration... Only amazing teachers do stuff like this. I bet your helping to create heaps of inquisitive little minds. Keep it up.... 🤜🏼🤛🏼🇦🇺🍀😎🤓
No he only wants the money. When we asked personally a question he said only if we send him money first. Then blocked us off facebook all together. Real teachers do it to truly help. This little aussie is just trying to bankroll.
Really... That’s bloody deplorable and goes totally against anything I said.
Drone Mechanic is unfortunately dishonest. He messaged a business contact page, offering a healthy reward to fix a problem for him. Was met with an automated response. No one has been blocked from Facebook, the entire page has been deleted and was scheduled from two weeks before, as that's the only way Facebook lets you do it.
And for the record, this was the automated message: "Thanks for your message. This page is for business enquiries only. I have been swamped by requests for personal help, which I cannot provide. Please consider becoming a Patreon or joining a relevant community group". He then replied by saying I would get $150 for helping. If I was all about the money, sounds like an easy pay day for me.
Just put a big plastic box over the top that clears all the moving parts. I've tried for a while to have a flexible lid for my ultimaker that accommodates the moving head out of those oven bags used for cooking turkeys. However, at the end of the day it was messy and difficult to service. The solid box lid is easier
Nice video... So for your door closure I would suggest to add to your door by the handle a magnetic stopper so it keeps the door closed.
On the top I would go with a basket design. So you build a wider frame on the top and than you put over it a globe case which fit's just right. With hinges in the back you can just again simply flip it open when you need to work on your unit. And the magnet's I suggest 3 so left corner, center and right will ensure the units is closed and stay's closed and doesn't move around while printing because the 3 magnet's holding it firm enough in place.
I think if you could print some brackets that would bolt to the outside of the top and a slot on the end to hold the plastic sheet you could make a big enough top to place over the unit keeping the heat in the box. I'd still try and move the power supply and the motherboard out side of the box area to keep it cool.
I would make a lightweight lifted canopy for the top cover. It doesn’t need to be form fitted it hmmsut needs to provide a ceiling and be mostly air tight. Some thin plastic sheeting and a lightweight frame to wrap and bobs your uncle. Wouldn’t win any competition or beauty contests but it would satisfy the McGyver in ya.
love that hoody dude!
Bed supports work wonders, I was getting a lot of vibration and it affected my prints. Printed out some similar supports and no more vibration, prints coming out nice. What thickness acrylic did you use?
Any ETA on part 2?
Hi good evening Michael. First of all thank you very much for your great material, It's awesome. Could you please advice me where to buy spare parts for Ender 5 Series? I would be very grateful.
This video will be tagged and saved. I have this Ender and love it. 👍✌🖖🥃
For the top what about making accordion style plexy glass. You coulds cut strips then cut slots on them and hold them together with bolts that are just loose enough for them to slide. Use t-slots to attach to the frame on the front and back and figure out a way to attach them the the extruder rail. The front one will need to stand off of the extruder rail enough to allow the extruder to move but will still keep in moat heat.
As the extruder rail moves to the front the front accordion plexy will calaps but the rear will extend. Hope that makes sense, it's kinda hard to explane.
Maybe an overlapping dome type top cap, or maybe a complete box over the whole thing, because I would assume the hot air rises and slowly stacks to a lower level. Has anyone put heaters in the box to externally heat the print.
look at accordion or bellows type “way covers” for ideas for the top
I've seen a brush type the Y can plus out the way
As for a top cover, something removable would be best IMO. You will want easy access to the hot end and be able to remove the finished part easily. I think pins sticking out the sides with a shallow 'box' style cover which would sit on the pins should work decently. However, you will still have an air gap all around. Nothing you can do about that really aside from building an enclosure the whole printer fits into.
Try putting a titan aqua on it with an upgraded hotend and thermistor
A couple suggestions:
An iris style hood made from acrylic and old cd's. Looks cool and moves with your hotend
Or much simpler, a bubble style hood with an exhaust fan at the tippy top for even heat circulation
*And I will also comment on your Senna jacket
Great and interesting suggestions, thank you.
Great video, Im waiting for the part two, specially for the top of the enclousure... I bought the acrylic and they fit perfectly, but unfortunately, the mesures for the front door are wrong.
Yes how did u fix that?
"Oh well at least i know i haven't made it any worse" = IM KEEPIN IT ON ! Same way mate !!! :) thanks for the video !
excellent, thanks
Thank you.!
Good morning
Planning to build Ender 5 I'm interested in how you built the sides of the printer, or put the walls in the structure?
How did you make the door, hinges and lock printed?
Own projects or designs?
Are you planning a chamber heating and ventilation system (ABS printing)?
best regards
You talked about acetone washing do you have a video on how to do this and for how long?
OooOOooohhh tell me more about that LED, Tech daddy.
I really liked your sweatshirt, From Brazil
How do you deal with venting fumes? I want to do what you did to enclose it, but worry about fumes, especially with the ABS filament.
I was going to do the same thing when enclosing my printer but instead of acrylic I'm going to use glass mainly because glass won't burn in case of fire.
I have 2 cats, so I was thinking of doing this enclosure on the sides, to keep cat hair out. Any problems you’ve had since adding the walls?
Thanks. BTW have you done anything with your vinyl cutter? There is really very little TH-cam content focusing on procedure with your machine. At least your style is easier to understand.
I've used it with my students at school from time to time. No big projects of my own though.
i want the part 2 :D
Me too!
Are the measurements correct for the door? Because it should be smaller than the back and not bigger. I've cut the same size and it went over the two posts and not in between.
The door is incorrect. His dimensions are too large. The back and sides fit perfectly but I’ll have to cut the door down to fit
Lets talk about the Senna gear you're wearing. I want it!
Picked it up when at the Aus GP earlier in the year.
@@TeachingTech I've seen guys 3d printing (TPU?) onto t-shirts. Let's print some Senna gear on a future vid! 😄
Awesome
cool!
cover the top will be dificult and the more important zone to cover to avoid that all the hot air escape, maybe you can recirculate the hot air from top to the bottom with some fans and maintaing the same temp in all zones. i dont know..
That is an original idea, thanks for sharing.
Michael I couldn't find another way to ask you a question ,im thinking of purchaseing the artillery sidewinder x1 and was curious if you can add auto bed leveling to it thanks
Recently made a video on that, with options to add BLtouch or Touch Mi.
also what is your opinion of the sidewinder or cr - 10s
Excellent Video!
What kind of mainboard are You planning to install?
At this stage an MKS Gen L.
I was wondering, whether You were planning to test this: www.th3dstudio.com/product/th3d-tough-controller-for-creality-printers/
Once it comes out, it will be a drop-in replacement for Ender mainboards with much more potential.
@@szabolcspahan1277 They just started taking pre-orders. I hope to have mine by 6-14 or shortly after. The price is also better $ 90
@@woodwaker1 Yes, but they have also removed the dual extruder support. It would be easier to justify a purchase of a $115 board right after buying a $320 (Ender5) machine, if there would be more potential in it. I think, I will just wait for the reviews before deciding to buy one.
I know this video is a bit old but I had a question about your side panned installation. Did you have any problems with the acrylic rubbing against the belts inside the slot?
Do you list the measurements of the acrylic sheets anywhere that I can reference?
Do the side covers rub against the belts?
What infill percentage is best to use, for the Ender 5 bed support struts?
Thanks
Hello! Good tutorial! Just a detail, if the back plate has 340mm side, would the front plate really be 370mm? It seems incorrect. Wouldn't it be 330mm or something?
I was wondering about that, too. I am planning to build this enclosure, but I am hesitating, because I don't want to buy some expensive panels just to realize they do not fit. :/
Has anyone build this enclosure yet and can share how the panels fit?
@@sonnentaugnu2184 Hello Friend.
Yes, I did with the following measurements below, a little differently.
330 x 400 front
380 x 405 sides x2 (In the standard ender 5, the belt runs on the upper internal part of the frame, so the acrylic plate cannot touch the frame at this point)
340 x 410 rear
Thank you @@igorterra1444 !
Yeah that makes sense. I will try those measurements for my panels. :)
Just used your dimensions to do the same on my Ender 5. I just received the sheets I had ordered to be cut to the right size, but the front door panel dimensions are clearly off 🥲 it should probably be 330x400, not 370x400
Wish I read your comment first, dealing with the same issue currently. Took the dimensions from the video but the door one is way too large. Should have measured myself before ordering.
Is there a video for the top lid yet?
I want to see what chamber heater you use. I need to build a chamber for my ender 3 so I can print without worries of off gassing or hydroscopicity
I believe there is an option built in to Marlin, but I'm not sure how refined it is. Otherwise I'll be setting it up as a fake second hot end, with heater output and thermistor input. This is why the mainboard upgrade is needed.
@@TeachingTech I see, I'll be looking forward to your videos. Another point, bought a BLtouch for my printer and used your tutorials to get it working. I had so many headaches getting it working until you released that recent bug fixing tutorial. Thanks for the great videos!
Could you do a video how to put a bootloader on the Ender 3 with the Creality BLtouch kit programmer? :) I see some people made it using your files, and you also have the kit. Thanks for the tutorials, have helped me a lot.
Prepare you firmware like usual in Arduino, then when done, go to sketch > export compiled binary. Now follow my instructions from that video to flash the hex that will appear in your sketch folder. There are two, you want the one that has 'with bootloader' in the title.
@@TeachingTech ok thank you :)
What are the screws used in the door, measure and model?
How about a flexible cover? Something that has slats that slide over each other as the Y-axis moves back and forth, like an escalator.
That would be very cool but I don't think I have to time to develop it.
When is part 2 coming out?
when next part xD cant wait for it
So many videos to make, so little time! Hopefully within the next few weeks.
Mine came with the red aluminum extruder and I think it's cap tubing but I have no idea it just looks like a blue tube to me
What is the min width that you can get away with on the ender 5 enclosure? My enclosure has a max opening size of 19 1/2 inches. If you relocate spool and controls can it fit the Ender 5?
Where did you find the panels at for your enclosure?
Chears from Brazil
I sub'd just because of the sweater.
I'm really curious if you're still using this printer, and how it's holding up.
Since the electronics are in the base of the Ender 5 at what point would you consider moving the electronics outside the enclosure? We put heatsinks and fans to cool these components. Having them in a hot enclosure would defeat these cooling efforts.
I think if it becomes an issue, a inlet duct from the bottom of the printer could be used so cooler air were being drawn in.
I see you are replacing the hot end on the ender 3 & ender 5 printers with all metal hot ends in order to print nylon, carbon fiber etc. Would you by chance know if the ender 3 "PRO" and ender 5 "PRO" come standard with hot ends that do not need hot end modification to print nylon & CF? Also, I am about to purchase my 1st 3D printer and will mostly be printing materials that need to be high strength & rigid. Do you feel the Creality products are up for the challenge? And, since I'm basically looking for strong & rigid vs. nice looking, Would you recommend another printer within the same $300.00 - $600.00 price range? Your assistance with this decision would be greatly appreciated.
Ayrton Senna do Brasil! haha
hello sir,
micro swiss hot end is essential for ender 5 pro printer to print ABS .
Will acrylic enclosure can heat resist at abs prehead?
can you send the link to part 2 please
How did you make that led light under the fan?
hey what about the wham bam bed compared to the creality PEI bed?
Finally a real 3D printer :) I don't see any use for PLA. But I wished you had chosen the Sapphire S for that modification (and the other ones), because it's frame structure seems to be perfectly made for this, avoiding that movign components on top problem.
What thickness of acrylic did you use?
I know this is off topic but..... I upgraded to the 1.15 silent board and lost my change filament option and auto bed leveling option. i have the upgraded firm ware.is there a way to get it back?
Now you done the ender v think you can do the tronxy 5xs
Ya I would like to see this too
can you print metal, wood or carbon fiber?
What it the maximum enclosure temperature you've taken the ender 5 up to?
Have you had any joy in deciding how to enclose the top of the printer yet?
how thick is the acrylic sheet?
It's going to be hard for a top enclosure, but does it make a difference?
I would assume its a crucial part as heat rises upwards, so you would be loosing a lot of heat without a top cover.
Would there be any issue printing with PLA with the enclosure?
Beautiful tribute to our idol Ayrton Senna, Tks.😉😉🤝🏎🏎
Your Tips have already helped me a lot, including with the CR-30, @l3dfigures
Would you say Ender5 is good one to get as a first printer, and then slowly do all the mods and upgrades??? Thank you!
Price wise it's not as much as a bargain as the Ender 3, but apart from that it either has the same components or superior. So yes.
No part 2 yet?
Dear instructor how do you do with the BLtouch
i enclosed and at the firts time was burning out!