Success engraving glass with plain masking tape and the xTool D1 with the RA2 Pro.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ส.ค. 2022
- After a frustrating day of trying to engrave glass using the Cold Galvanizing Compound, I got better results today using only masking tape. No prep time. Very little clean up. If you are looking to engrave glass, this is a must watch. But it's not just the tape. It's the technique. If you don't watch it through to the end, you probably won't get the same results. A long video, but it could save considerable time trying to figure it out yourself. Let me know if this helps or if you have any improvements.
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Took me a long time to see this, but man, what good info. Thanks a million.
Thank you for the info. A simple piece of scrap inside the glass will prevent the cross burn.
Just bought xtool d1 pro. Glad a tape works fine with the right setting. Paint is so messy I don't even want to buy it. Thanks. Subscribed
Have fun!
Looking forward to trying this. Never would have thought of painters tape
Be careful doing the burns I've done. I've discovered the burns I've done using tapes and coatings may have been the root of my problem with cracking lenses. Watch my four-month review demonstrating the issues with xTools air assist.
Great video. I have the same exact machine, and every video I’ve watched says you need cold galvanizing compound, cermark extra, etc to engrave glass. New sub.
I've worked with the cold galvanizing compound. It's messy, expensive and I got mixed results.
I haven't worked with Cermark, but from what I've watched about it, it is more for "marking" or printing on glass. The video's I seen it looks like it produces an extremely nice image, almost like screen-printed. But I don't think it is for engraving. But, you wanna talk about expensive...
Thanks for subscribing.
@@HoboWithWood all of them are expensive Laserbond 100 is $80 for an 12oz can, Enduramark is almost $60, Cermark is $20 for a 2oz can……it’s ridiculous.
I tried this method and setting using Spray Chalk (water washable) and result was perfect! (20w diode xTool D1 pro)
I took on a laser Xtool D1 because I could not find ceramic coffee cups like I wanted.. so with little time to learn it.. less than 2 wks... I wish WISH I would have known about multi sublayers for burning and the Flood fill.. My 55 cups turned out great but I really do think adding the flood fill would have made them even MORE spectacular. I also painted all of them first because that was all I could find on the topic. Cleaning them all after the engrave/burn really sucked !
You might use the metal prongs (with rubber screw protectors) to move the glass further away from the chuck.
With the setting the user should understand the laser's power will effect the results, similar lasers power out should be very close to your setting, main difference is the beams focal point size.
As with many things a user should do test etching/burns to see the power to speed relations to verify if setting need to be adjusted. You descriptions of the operational setting is very helpful and your display of the results is great. have fun.
Now see. That's where you have gone terribly off course. You are applying near extinct and seldom used common sense.
@@HoboWithWood very sad but true, and at 79 I need to keep the on course (: (: have fun
Nice work! I'd love to see a test with tape on just the inside. I'm guessing it would be similar to the first example, but smooth on the outside. Also, try crumpling up some aluminum foil into a ball and filling the inside of the glass to keep the light from passing through.
Tried it and it will engrave inside the glass not outside lol...
I wonder if the last line had a better outcome because it’s the last item so had more debris from the other lines to etch onto. Would be interesting to see if the outcome is consistent with these settings from start to finish. Great video though this is first time I have seen the painters tape method, very informative
I don't think so. I did a last test piece only using the settings from the last layer. It turned out really nice. You'll have to give it a try and share your results. Thanks for watching. If you haven't, please subscribe. I'm trying to get this channel monetized. I really need some income. It's a lot of fun making these videos. But this video was an entire day of testing and editing. I do it because I enjoy it. But, I might as well get paid. 😃
@@HoboWithWood ah that’s good to know, I actually havnt gotten my laser yet I’m doing as much research as possible before committing to one. Your videos have helped me see what’s possible and I’m swaying towards the xtool d1 pro. I have subscribed and look forward to seeing your content going forward. Hope all goes well with the monetisation you deserve it 👍
I don't know if anyone else suggested this, but if you take the cardboard core from toilet paper or paper towel and put it inside. It will roll and stop the etching/engraving of the opposite side.
Aluminum foil was also suggested.
The air assist will blow away debris that would stay in the beam longer creating more heat. Heat on the surface will damage it creating an etching effect. The trick is to use a medium that creates this heat at the surface long enough in time to melt the glass surface without cracking it. Take NOTES !! and Pictures... I just received a Xtool D1 10W and it is fun. You are doing a great job explaining 😁. I would suggest masking tape on the inside with a layer of aluminum tape on top of the masking tape to absorb the light coming thru the masking tape.
Nice video but, you need more speed and less power, way less power, because at 100 you are chipping the glass…You have a 10 watt bring the LPI up to 300…I work with glass a lot, and depending what I am going for, I either use chalkboard paint for the frosty look,Ti02 mix for the black look, and I also use flat black high heat paint that gives a bronze look…
If you want to do something cool with glass…Transparent wine bottles, put some tempura paint inside the bottle twirl it around until the inside is all covered, pour out the excess paint, and let dry for 24hours…The etch it!I etch mandalas that I design all around the bottle, after that I wash and rinse out the paint, and I put fairy lights inside. People are amazed on how beautiful these are, they are my best sellers right now.
Thanks for the advice. I'm still learning. Only at this for a few months. I believe I've been working with a faulty laser module since day one. I run test grids on all materials I'm working with. It's how I determine the best settings for my laser. With the current laser this is what worked. I've got a replacement now and I'm looking forward to better results and trying your suggestions. I've been working on creating my Titanium Oxide mixture. I'd love to know what your using. I've been trying to create a system with the tape and Titanium Oxide that didn't require hours of prep time. I've had some minor successes. Loving the idea of a bronze look. Thanks again. Both for the advice and for watching.
Just a though, it's just a set screw that holds the lens cap on, couldn't you turn the cap so the air line is infront? I have an xtool d1pro 20w. I haven't looked at mine but from what I remember last time I cleaned the lense, if I'm not mistaken ypu could loosen the set screw and rotate the air intake to the front. I might be wrong though like I said I haven't checked mine
much better, no ships were sunk by releasing the setting info, the reason for the double etch was the beam passes through the top tape and the second tape allows it to etch the inside of the glass. if you worries about laser scatter just tape the glass's other outside the beam will be defused by the time it hits the fas inside. (: (:
Since I was demonstrating a test of course there was no hesitation to show the settings of the test. It's so you can duplicate the test and see IF you get the same results. I'm only hesitant to share settings on an actual project because you'll have the few that want to complain because it didn't work for them. The failure would on no part be due to anything I shared. But I would get the negative posts anyway. Thanks for watching.
If you cover the metal pins with a rubber sleeve you do not have any protrusion. I did this with stemless wine glasses. Pins are in the inside of the glass
I'm going to take Steve Wrights suggestion to the next level, why bother with the chuck at all? Just throw it on appropriately spaced rollers. No jaws to bump into. I love my RA2, the chuck option does make it so versatile, but it can complicate things when used where just the rollers will do the job. I'm starting to experiment with engraving the tin shot glasses that come with Tin Cup Whiskey. I tried the chuck jaws from the outside, the inside, and with the ring prongs then I realized it would easier just to throw it on the rollers, and raise the end to level the taper lol. I'm getting married next fall, we plan on using the engraved shot glasses for a whiskey toast rather than champagne and as guest gifts. Also considering buying some flasks in bulk and engraving one for each couple as guest gifts.
Congratulations! (Or I'm sorry. Whichever is the most appropriate.) You've got some time to figure it out between now and the time you get married, (or call it off). One cautionary thing about using the rollers, you want to be sure not to go too fast. Probably slower than you'd think. If you go too fast, your glasses could slip when the roller reverse direction. This makes for a muddy image. That's the reason I like the clamps, when you can get them out of the way. But at the right speed, the rollers can get it done. Good luck and best wishes. I hope your engravings are successful and the marriage works out, too.
@@HoboWithWood Thank you for the tips and well wishes!!
I got a comgrove camera i really like.
I tired this method and by far was the best results ive had ao far seriously awesome job how have you been cleaning them if you dont mind me asking?
When cleaning engravings using tape on glass, I use plain old rubbing alcohol to remove the residue from the finished surface.
I have also seen some 3d printable chucks so there might be much smaller and not have any thing to catch laser on.
That may be something I need to look into. Thanks for watching. Happy lasering!
Have you tried the tempera paint on glass? Also did you try that effect on a flat piece of glass yet? With the tape on both sides ?
I have not used tempera paint. I have seen many that have and had success. But from the videos I've watched, even coverage is crucial.. That's why I like using my tape. I don't have to be concerned about getting the coverage even. Tempera paint watches off fairly easily, but it still makes a mess. Tape is a much easier cleanup. However, not all tape is created equal. There are many different types of adhesive used in making tape with varying degrees of adhesion. Different thicknesses of crepe paper used also. The tape that I use and have had excellent success with is Scotch 233. This is an automotive grade masking tape used in the body shop business. It is heavy duty and sticks extremely well and cleans up without leaving a residue. But it ain't cheap. It sells for an average of $20/roll for 48mm wide and 55m in length. There is a new Scotch 233+. I have not tried it. The next tape I will experiment with will be the ScotchBlue tapes. My thinking is the LED blue laser is definitely being reflected slightly from the yellowish masking tape. The Blue tape should not reflect the laser as much and may produce a better outcome with less power. I have not tried engraving both side of the glass, yet... Thanks for watching.
Can you try doing a portrait on glass with painters tape please and thank you , I wold really like to see that video
I will look into that. I am revising some of my mirror projects in the coming weeks. While I'm working with the mirrors, I'll see what I can do.
How did you add gold into the plate? Any video on it?
Simply hand painted. No tricks on that.
Maybe it’s the angle of the camera, but the nozzle looks really close
Could you just etch the center mark on the tailstock? Did Entenmann's come through?
Someone else had suggested marking the rotary with the laser. Sometimes I'm oblivious to the obvious solution. And nope. Nothing from Entenmann's or Spree, (used in several videos). You never know until you try.
@@HoboWithWood What if you become an affiliate for Entenmanns?
Why don't you engrave the tdc lines on the rotary?
LMAO. If I only had a better way to mark the rotary than a piece of tape and a marker...duh. I love it when I overlook the obvious. Thanks for the suggestion. I could really appreciate regular viewers and subscribers like yourself. This comment deserves a shout-out next time I've got the rotary out. A sincere thank you for making what should've been an obvious solution. Sometimes you can't see the forest for the trees. Thanks for watching.
How did you clean the tape off...peel then use Isopropyl?
The majority came off very cleanly. But the quality of the tape makes all the difference. I was using a premium Scotch automotive masking tape used in body shops. It's not cheap. I've tested other tapes and they did not perform nearly as well. This tape is very thick and has a rubber-based adhesive. Here is a link to the tape I was using. BE AWARE. The Amazon listing is incorrect in its description. This is for a single roll. NOT a pack of 6 as the listing states. The Scotch part number is 6340. It has been replaced with a new product, Scotch 233+. I cannot comment on its abilities. Wiping with a little alcohol afterwards doesn't hurt.
amzn.to/3Yomexd
@@HoboWithWood thank you greatly appreciated!
It's been a year. Any word from Entenmann's?
LOL. Nope.
What laser are you using??
This is an old video. At this time, I was using a 10W diode.
Question, are you using a 5 watt laser?
xTool D1 10 watt.
@@HoboWithWood
Thanks for the information, great channel easy to understand.
Do you have any thoughts for the 5 watt settings on glass? Thanks again. Hope people continue to subscribe
I just started this adventure with lasers. Until four months ago, I had NO working knowledge of lasers or how they worked. So, no. I know nothing about 5W lasers. But the best advice I can give you is TEST, TEST, TEST. Run a test pattern on all new material. You will learn so much more about your laser's capabilities doing tests. I have a huge library of test burns now. But even when I bring in a new batch of Baltic Birch, I run a test on one of the pieces. But only after it's been in my shop for two to three days. Even the change in environment will have an impact on the quality of the cut or burn. While not burning glass, the differences in the production process used to manufacture that glass may be different enough that it doesn't engrave the same as the last batch you had. There is no magic or spreadsheet that will give you absolutely the best settings. You can get some info that will serve as a springboard to start from. But to really dial in your laser, you gotta test. It's boring. But it's the only way to truly learn your laser. Thanks for watching.
Yes on china
you have the cover off of your laser. Why? Also, you are using the offset of the laser position. don't you find it not accuate?
The cover gets in the way doing certain projects. I was taking it on and off, on and off. I finally just left it off. I do not use the red cross-hairs at all. I use the laser beam itself for framing purposes. If you aren't aware you could do that or know how, if you are using Lightburn, the following video shows how to set it up. Once you start using the laser for framing, nothing else will do. th-cam.com/video/dlBwknV2YIA/w-d-xo.html It's towards the end of the video. This technique will work with any laser as far as I know. It's quick, simple and easy to do.
@@HoboWithWood My bad. I thought I saw cross hairs at the top. I use the laser beam also. Thanks!
Does this work better than paint
In my opinion, yes. Much easier setup and cleanup.
@@HoboWithWood Thanks
Great video, but you say painters tape,it looks like masking tape and a comment you made to another viewer says it’s scotch automotive tape at $22.00 a roll, I thought the purpose of this was to save money by not using that expensive $10.00 a can of paint. So will regular masking tape or painters tape work also? And yes I subscribed 😉
There are so many different types of tape and all kinds of different adhesives used on all those tapes. It is painter's tape. Automotive painter's tape. I tried other tapes and had less success. I don't know if it's due to the adhesive type, the thickness of the paper, the brand or all the above. The tape is expensive. But it's not just the difference in the cost of tape vs paint. Tape has no wait period before engraving. The clean-up is much easier and cheaper. Time is money. Tape is quicker. But honestly, I haven't found the ability to engrave glass that being a huge money-making ability. I haven't done any since these tests. Thanks for watching.
Why don't you use your laser to engrave a TOP DEAD CENTER mark ?
That would be entirely TOO easy and simple to do. That was actually suggested by another viewer moments after publishing this video. I felt about 3" inches tall and smacked in the head. It made perfect sense to do that and I did it the next time I had the rotary out. Thanks for the suggestion and that is what I ended up doing.
Did you ever think of putting gold leaf on China and then laser it?
Seems like the gold leaf would simply reflect the laser. Wouldn't it?
Settings?
It's going to vary greatly depending on the quality and thickness of glass and several other factors. You should always test to find the best settings.
you say "painters tape" every painters tape I have seen is blue or green. Where did you get what you have. I have tried tape and have not had anything but a gooey mess.
It's Scotch Automotive Painters Tape. Used in body shops/Scotch 233. Not the new 233+. Plain old 233. It's not cheap it's like $22/roll. Here's my link. (despite what the description says, it's a single roll for $22) amzn.to/3VwhweQ
and... at the very end you mentioned the china. I checked your vids and I don't see anything...
I did do some china. I had mixed results. Nothing that was channel worthy.
You could invert chuck grips and grab the cup from inside…