Better Round logos on tapered glasses | Laser engraving rotary | xTool D1 and RA2 Pro | UPDATED
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 มิ.ย. 2024
- UPDATED to fix a calculation for the taper angle in Photopea
This is my method for laser engraving a round logo on a cylindrical or tapered glass, mug, tumbler, etc. I go over what to look out for and the free software I used to alter the image to better fit on a tapered glass.
Taper Calculator:
www.omnicalculator.com/constr...
Photopea:
www.photopea.com/
Arc Length Calculator:
www.omnicalculator.com/math/a...
XTool RA2 review:
• xTool RA2 Pro Review |...
Affiliate links:
xTool D1
store.xtool.com/?ref=KD05RjSY...
xTool RA2 Pro
www.xtool.com/products/xtool-...
Find the grid file and feet here: (RA2Pro_Grid.lqx)
www.thingiverse.com/thing:509...
Buy the 3D printed feet here:
www.etsy.com/listing/1101241782
00:00 Intro
00:29 Cylindrical Objects
02:59 Finding the taper angle
08:07 Photopea Software
12:28 Adjusting Laserbox basic settings
19:12 Prepping glass for engraving
20:38 Engraving and final result - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Awesome Video! My Father In-Law bought the Xtool D1 with the rotary tool. He passed away unexpectedly before we got the chance to fully use/figure out how to use the Xtool. Thank you for helping me to keep his memory alive!
Sorry for your loss. Glad I could be of some help.
WOW! My wife bought the XTool D1 and we were try to do a tapered tumbler and we were wondering WHY the round Logo was not looking correct. We had guessed that is was due to the curve of the shape but we had NO idea the correct answer. You have just saved us a ton of time and probably materials too. THANK YOU SO VEY MUCH!
You are very welcome. Happy to help.
Great tutorial! Very clear and detailed. I'm about to take delivery of a rotary attachment for my Ortur LM3 Pro and will be following your advice and instructions for my first test runs. Thanks for sharing this information.
No worries, glad it helped.
This is an invaluable tutorial. GREAT work! Thank you.
No problem. Thank you!
Props for telling people about Photopea, I've been posting links to it for people for years... great option to Photoshop, just link inkscape is for Illustrator...Everything was great besides telling people to increase image size... never do that as that will degrade the image since it wasn't vector... or at a minimum turn the layer to a smart object first to always preserve detail of the original artwork. Also your export to png added that white space on the edges, it wouldnt have if you used file > export as... this exports the canvas size (the exact square you had) , not the image size as the png download button does which if you hover over it says "save selected layers as png" which is why its adding that extra white space since its exporting your warped images bounding box. Hope that helps some.
Thanks for that very detailed presentation! I just got my hands on the RA2 Pro for review purposes and I wasn't sure exactly where to start to calibrate the rollers and the chuck to account for the shape of the workpiece! 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Might be a dumb question. but, does this work for font only? Font seems to curve up when placed on tapered tumbler
Thanks for this! I have been avoiding round logos on pints for awhile but nailed it first try this time👍🏼
You are very welcome. Glad I could help!
This is absolute excellent tutorial, thank you for sharing!
You are very welcome!
Fantastic video, really answered some of my questions.
Thank you. Glad you liked it.
Great video, do you have a video of this method utilizing Lightburn? Thanks!
Thank you so much. Great video with tons of very useful information
Glad it was helpful!
I have a D1 and rotary like yours. Great job on the video, First Class. I am doing some tumblers for Xmas presents now.
Very cool. Tumblers make great gifts!
Excellent video - learned lots of things! 👍❤️
Thank you!
Excellent as always!
Thank you that was an awesome info very educational
Thanks. That's very concise instructions.
You are very welcome. Thanks for the Super thanks as well!
Thanks for the video and complete details.
You’re welcome!
Amazing I did it You made my day Thank you!!
Thank you! This was a great tutorial!
You are very welcome!
Great video...thank so much for making it!
Glad it was helpful!
Dude THANK YOU FOR THIS!!! Life saver man
Happy to help!
you are my project savior!!!!! Respect and love!!1
You’re welcome!
Great info, Ryan!
Thanks Mike!
Super helpful! Thanks!
Dude...um, you should be narrating videos for $$$. This is one of the best videos I have ever listened to.
Sounded like the "How It's Made' guy at the start.
I would love to make money narrating things. Personally I cringe hearing my own voice on video but glad you like it!
Subscriber added here mate!! Fantastic video!!!
Thank you and welcome!
Thank you so much this video helped so much engraving on a Yeti - what settings do you use for engraving on glass? I’ve been having the hardest time with settings, you seem to have figured it out it looks great!
I can't exactly remember what I had used but I believe it was 80%power 2,400mm/min speed.
Thank you so much for this!!!
Thank you very much! Sorry I just saw this but it is much appreciated.
Thank you for the video
this is great! Thank you
You're welcome!
Thx for the great lesson
My pleasure!
Hey there, awesome video, can ya help me find out where to get/make the logos?
Thank you for this video! I'm still having a hard time, even after following your instructions step by step. The image still comes out longer rather than round. The only 2 things I'm doing different is saving it as an svg and using Lightburn. I'm using an xtool 10w pro and the chuck. I have to be missing something somewhere, I even added an additional 10% after my initial 10%.
Check out the Lightburn rotary setup on the xTool website. I know that the steps rotation is not the same as the rollers but I can't remember it off of the top of my head. Might still be a good idea to run a test to see if it's moving the full rotation you think it is by moving it 100MM and measuring to see if it's actually doing it.
Awesome video learn something I have been struggling with. I use light burn I'm assuming is similar. Also is there a technique to keep your tumbler or glass from sliding from the rollers?
You can burn tumblers in lightburn the same way. It does not have the ability to taper the image but it can burn them just fine. As far as the slipping I have seen people have success with weighing down the tumblers with something inside, I have used a bag full of plastic pellets myself. I have also see people use rubber bands on the tumblers to give better traction on the surface.
Great video. How long did it take to engrave the glass in this video. And what about aluminum tumblers/Yeti tumblers? Thank you!
Honestly I can’t remember. They didn’t take that long but since it was not the focus of the video I didn’t really pay attention.
Thank you for this video, it is exactly what I was looking for! I do have one question. Your rotary seems to have something supporting the smaller diameter end to level it. Is that something you purchased, or something you made? Could you share more about it either way? Thanks again!
It is a component that comes with the RA2 Pro. It is used to level out the tumblers/glasses that you are trying to engrave on. If you already have one of the older rotary attachment there are many people selling that type of add-on on Etsy.
@@BusterBeagle3D Thanks!
Very cool
I'm fairly certain that the 90mm you measured at that location would have in fact been a larger number if you took the measurement closer to the top.
So your correction was needed at the specific spot you desired to engrave.
Worth considering is to use the diameter/circumference at the specific locations the image would land at both its top and bottom of the image being engraved (instead of the top and bottom diameters of the tumbler.
Thoughts?
Any chance you can make a tutorial using lightburn with RA2 (chuck), or the same procedure applies to the image when using lightburn?
I just installed lightburn but I don't have any videos with it yet. Lightburn does have a rotary setup that includes things like the circumference, and diameters of the objects you are engraving on but I would still test to make sure if it's moving the distance you think it is. As for the round stretching trick that would still apply to glasses or mugs burned through lightburn so you would still want to alter the image to make it look correct.
Lots of great information. Thank you. For some reason I couldn’t get my image to show up in photopea. I’m sure it’s my own doing. I was able to design and distort my image using vectric vcarve and export as an SVG. When I import into XCS it shows the separate vector for the inside of my text but when I click the engrave tab it fills in the whole character. An O would look like a solid circle etc. If I create a design within XCS say like a circle within a circle and click engrave it fills in the larger circle completely covering the inner circle. Do you know how to have it recognize the vectors only engrave the area between the two circles creating a boarder. I’m new to lasers and not the most savvy computer guy. Would appreciate any help, Thanks
In XSC select the inner circle and then the outer one then click on Combine >Subtract and the 2 should allow you to make the donut you want.
Muy, muy bueno muchas gracias... (Very, very good thank you very much, sorry for my english
Might be a dumb question. but, does this work for font only? Font seems to curve up when placed on tapered tumbler
How long did it take for that job to finish? The time frame of the engraving.
Nice vid! Question: what correction do you have to do to engrave a square logo instead of a round one? I've been having issues where the top and bottom lines are a weird curve and no one's addressed this. Thoughts? 🤔
I don't have any specific tests on squares vs circles. The whole reason for making the circles wider is to fix the perceived oval-ness of the circle even though it technically is not oval, it's perfectly round. I'm not sure why you would be getting a curve at the bottom and top unless the cup or tumbler is not very square to the laser itself. If the tumbler was angled to much I could see how you might get an odd curve but I really haven't done any tests to verify this.
@icmpeko @@BusterBeagle3D the reason you’re getting curved lines instead of straight is because you are basically engraving on a cone, not a perfect cylinder. You can try warping the logo to make the horizontal lines curve in the opposite direction before proceeding. Then print it out on paper and see how it looks. I’m sure there’s an equation to figure out the amount of warp based on cone taper but I don’t know that offhand. I’d say print out multiple squares with slightly different warp amount and then see which one looks the straightest on the cup.
Would you recommend this laser for a beginner? I’m looking at other models also like the ortur however I like the enclosure of this model thanks in advance
Any laser will have a learning curve for beginners to engraving. I think it’s a nice choice. My first laser was an Ortur but I do like the build quality of the D1. You could really go either way and achieve nice results.
@Buster Beagle 3D Hello Ryan, any laser can what you have demonstrated in their videos, engraving aluminum (anodized aluminum)? Thanks
Ralf
Most 5.5W lasers can mark on anodized aluminum. Just have the take it slow.
Great information...maybe you can help me out. I created a design in Lightburn, 70x70mm saved as .svg and when I import it into Photopea it shrinks it a a tiny little image. Have tried converting to a bitmap, but same thing happens. Can you help?
Hello. To be honest I'm not 100% sure. I am really more of a Photoshop user then a Photopea but was showing this process in that program because it is free. I'm not sure why that would be at a different scale.
Hi Mr. Beagle,
Nice video. Question - When I try to export the file from laserbox basic, the file format is shown as Asian language characters. That does not work well with Photopea. Any suggestions?
The file that is exported from Laserbox basic is a .LQX file. It’s not an image format and is only readable and usable in Laserbox basic. You would need an image or SVG file to open it in Photopea.
I am trying to do this but after I save the image as png and import into lightburn, it is still an image. What step am I missing? Do I have to convert to path and trace? Then I am loosing definition. Not sure what step I missed.
I'm following your video (thanks its really helping) but getting an issue. I've checked my rotation calibration and 50mm in lightburn is 50mm on the rotary but when i burn the image the burnt image is wider than the paper print out i did to check it was ok. Same height just wider. Any thoughts as to what might be causing it?
Any help greatly appreciated and thank you for the videos.
It doesn’t really make sense that when you check the distance it’s correct but the artwork is stretching. If they are both 50mm wide they should be correct. I honestly can’t think of what would cause that.
Thanks - It's so frustrating@@BusterBeagle3D
I am interested in the paint you used. Do you mind giving a link for what you're referring to as I am not sure how to even spell it. Is this paint what is left on the cup after etching and it turns that white? Also, I am wondering what it does without the paint? Is it a more translucent etch? Lastly, is this something that can be done with the 5W version?
It's called Tempura paint. You can buy in at any craft store or even the dollar tree. I would think the laser would just pass through if you didn't coat it with something and I'm not sure about the 5.5W laser because I have not tired it yet with this method. It's not the paint that is left but the black surface that allows the glass to be etched. www.dollartree.com/prang-tempera-black-paints-8oz/300669
I’ve gotten great results with 3M blue painters tape using my 5w laser as well. I’m super impatient and hate waiting for paint to dry 😂
@@anthonymontezcomedy814 What are your settings using the tape? I can't get it burn on my beer glasses using the tape. Its great for test runs, but nothing burns through. I have a 10w D1 Pro and currently I'm engraving at 100pwr/70speed/1pass.
After the Glass is Engraved what do you use to clean up the Glass I have found the engraving leaves bit of glass in the engraving that needs to be scrapped out?
I don't seem to have that same issue. You may be engraving with too much power. Might need to run some tests where you back it off a little bit.
Is there a need to account for the taper if the rotary is angled parallel with the laser taking the taper away?
It needs to be angled to keep the proper focal distance from the laser. That doesn’t remove the taper from the cup itself. You would still need to account for the taper if you want your design to look correct.
@@BusterBeagle3D ok thank you for the reply!
What if instead of being short on the 100mm turn, it's actually over by 50% (150mm). Do I have to subtract 50%??
If you are that far off I would make sure you have the proper settings for your rotary. Not sure what program you are using but I would check the settings and make sure you are entering the proper roller size as well as other settings it asks for in programs like Lightburn.
Where did you get the tail support for your tumbler. Also, I know a secret tip for getting the D1 to mark black in Stainless Steel, cheap !! not that expensive stuff either.
The support on the end of the tumbler is part of the RA2 Pro from xTool and I'm always up for a cheap secret tip.
@@BusterBeagle3D Dry Graphite lube.
@@BusterBeagle3D Spray 2 coats, let dry between coats. Power 100 % speed 300mmm. I do it 2 times for picture's, but this is tricky, if you want to know how. Cleanup with alcohol and paper towel.
@@forrestgumpv9049 Two coats of what?
@@BusterBeagle3D CRC Dry Graphite Lube
I really like watching your video. But is there a way that i can open up something in Lightburn ? And put it in there to adjust it. Please don't laugh I'm a nubi.
As of right now I don't think so but I have heard that it should be supported in future versions of Lightburn.
Takk!
Thank you so much! I really appreciate it. I'm glad you found the video helpful.
Doesn't lightburn have a builtin taper adjustment feature.
I wasn't aware of any tapering in Lightburn. I have seen it asked a few times but never saw a solution.
don't you have to reflect the object??
I am not sure what the hell I am doing wrong in Photopea but as soon as I try to transform warp anything (svg, png, jpeg, no background, background, etc) it just ends up with an all black screen. I can see the preivew shows the text warped correctly. It is a simple black text on a white background, or no background as well. Followed all your steps... Anyone else have a similiar issue?
Just answered it myself - the photo was too large. I imported a huge image (beacuse I don't want any loss of quality) and it just was too much. Scaled it down and now it's working. Thanks for the video!!
@@222dillon You are welcome! Glad you figured it out!
Wouldn't the V value be angle/width? 4.8/71.5= .067. 6.7%
Actually, if you do 100% it seems to give you a 45°. So it would be more 4.8*100/45=10.66%
What happens if the taper angle is only 1 degree.... Major = 75, Minor = 67, Length = 224. Taper Angle is 1.023. 1.023*2 = 2.046. 2.046-2.22 = -0.174
So my image still came out sorta egg shaped.. must've did something wrong in the editor
why 2,22 ??
Excellent explanatory video! Just one suggestion, could you put subtitles in Spanish please? Thank you very much friend
If you click on the gear next to the CC you should be able to select auto translation of the closed captioning in any language.
I did 96 stemless wine glasses for my wife’s 50th birthday party. They had compound curves with no stem to support the base end on. I don’t recommend it. It was not a fun task.
I can’t imagine 96 of anything to be all that much fun :)
Seems like almost all these laser tutorials use photoshop. Too bad that you can't buy photoshop anymore and it's subscription only. Which is such a waste of money for most people.
This tutorial is not using Photoshop. It's using a free web based app that just happens to look exactly like Photoshop called Photopea.
Just have to find an old version of Ps with a key. Easy enough to do if you know where to look. CS5 or CS6.