Thx for sharing your power steering upgrade. The pump mounting on an inline 6 is always the challenge. You have laid a great foundation for others to follow. Great upgrade on the steering shaft too Thx again. Look forward to seeing your other posts
I love your explanations of why you chose certain parts, or the reason for the steps to take. That installw was very clean when it was all done. My vote is to keep that factory steering wheel. Especially with the light rust on the horn button. You can't buy that online.
I got a 68 step side 250 L6 put powrr steering on it and boy. It made a world of difference before power steering it was like driving a tractor Now its smooth a silk nice an lite best upgrade u can make on an old pickup. Also. Them 6cyl motors are bullet proof. U dont need a v8 … just enjoy ur truck Dont forget them L6 motors built america
The adapter plate is a different application and much more difficult for the early 1960 1962 chevy truck x box frame. Torsion bars front suspension. Just FYI. The top bolt actually goes through the top of the frame and one goes through a angle plate and i would recommend sleves for a couple of bolts. On the 1960 1962 x box frame anyway. Great video and very informative 👍
@@ron12april Also the intermediate slip shaft. I used one off a mid 80s Jeep. It fits directly onto the power steering box and has two u joints. Eliminating the rag. I did have to do some grinding on the connection for fitting. But it worked out well. Keep up the great work and excellent videos 👍
I thought about the double U joint approach but think the rag joint dampens some road vibration, so went that route. Also, I still wanted the collapsible shaft so would have gone for new collapsible Double D rather than the jeep shaft.
Hello Ron where do you purchase the power steering pump brackets for your six cylinder install ,and could you supply me with those part numbers also if you can thank you in advance . I will be installing on both a 60 chev with a261 and a65 chev with a 230 engineBob
I'm replacing upper bearing on 1960 chevy truck steering column, bearing came with spring and retainer when reinstalling shaft it would not pass through retainer tried to force through and damaged bearing. I was wondering if you had any tips on installing the bearing.
Sorry, it has been quite a while since I did this. I think steering column was in place and upper bearing and turn signal switch added after - but not sure.
Thanks a bunch for sharing your video! I’ve got a ‘62 C10 with a 235, and have been pondering the power steering addition. Glad you’ve shown that it can be done. Your disc brakes with the six lug - did you make that conversion on the front? If yes, what size of wheel do you run? Been trying to work out if my stock wheels will work with disc (spent a lot of time restoring them and don’t want to lose them for a conversion).
Power steering works great. Really happy I did it. With regard to the wheels, my stock wheels on the back were 5 1/2 inch x 15 inch and these will not clear the calipers on the disk brakes up front. I wound up replacing wheels with 1973 to 1987 Chevy C10 wheels which are 6 x 15, 6 lug, and clear the calipers. They also fit on the back where I kept the drum brakes. Unfortunately, these wheels are getting hard to find. I got one aftermarket wheel that was supposed to be the same but did not clear the calipers without adding a spacer, and the hub cap didn't fin on right. I use that one as the spare.
@@ron12april Thanks a bunch for the reply! I was afraid that might be the case with the wheels since the stamp on mine said 15X5K. Maybe the disc conversion will happen some day in the future (plus the power brake addition). Thanks again!!!
Did you convert from non-power steering to a upgraded power steering? I have an old 77 deluxe w/o power steering. I will need to install a pump. Any suggestions will appreciated.
If your old shaft is not bent you can just cut to right length and have machine shop grind down two flats to make a double D joint. Then mount a double D to double D universal followed by the short double D shaft.
If your old shaft is not bent you can just cut to right length and have machine shop grind down two flats to make a double D joint. Then mount a double D to double D universal followed by the short double D shaft.
Rag joint to double D piece part of CPP power steering kit, but also available separately from CPP. Stainless double D shaft also from CPP. The short shaft that I used was from CPP but through ebay. For some reason the short version only through their ebay store. Saved a few bucks by not having to cut down a longer one.
@@ihatesjws1188 the shortest stainless shaft in the CPP catalog is 22" part number CPP1850SS They had shorter listed on ebay when I bought mine but do not see it listed now.
Thx for sharing your power steering upgrade. The pump mounting on an inline 6 is always the challenge.
You have laid a great foundation for others to follow.
Great upgrade on the steering shaft too
Thx again. Look forward to seeing your other posts
Thanks. Happy you found it useful
I love your explanations of why you chose certain parts, or the reason for the steps to take. That installw was very clean when it was all done. My vote is to keep that factory steering wheel. Especially with the light rust on the horn button. You can't buy that online.
Thanks. Original steering wheel still there.
I got a 68 step side 250 L6 put powrr steering on it and boy. It made a world of difference before power steering it was like driving a tractor Now its smooth a silk nice an lite best upgrade u can make on an old pickup. Also. Them 6cyl motors are bullet proof. U dont need a v8 … just enjoy ur truck Dont forget them L6 motors built america
I agree. Power steering did make a big difference. My garage is on a dead end alley so I am constantly making 3 point turns.
You’re the man!
Thanks!
Thank You very nicely done..
Happy you enjoyed it
Good job!
Thanks
You could make big bucks, and really help out the community by selling those shafts.
The adapter plate is a different application and much more difficult for the early 1960 1962 chevy truck x box frame. Torsion bars front suspension.
Just FYI. The top bolt actually goes through the top of the frame and one goes through a angle plate and i would recommend sleves for a couple of bolts.
On the 1960 1962 x box frame anyway.
Great video and very informative 👍
Thanks for the info
@@ron12april
Also the intermediate slip shaft.
I used one off a mid 80s Jeep. It fits directly onto the power steering box and has two u joints. Eliminating the rag.
I did have to do some grinding on the connection for fitting. But it worked out well. Keep up the great work and excellent videos 👍
I thought about the double U joint approach but think the rag joint dampens some road vibration, so went that route. Also, I still wanted the collapsible shaft so would have gone for new collapsible Double D rather than the jeep shaft.
Hello Ron where do you purchase the power steering pump brackets for your six cylinder install ,and could you supply me with those part numbers also if you can thank you in advance . I will be installing on both a 60 chev with a261 and a65 chev with a 230 engineBob
Bracket for power steering pump on 6 cyl: www.davisspeedequipment.com
Very nice!
Thanks!
I'm replacing upper bearing on 1960 chevy truck steering column, bearing came with spring and retainer when reinstalling shaft it would not pass through retainer tried to force through and damaged bearing. I was wondering if you had any tips on installing the bearing.
Sorry, it has been quite a while since I did this. I think steering column was in place and upper bearing and turn signal switch added after - but not sure.
steering shaft not column
Thanks a bunch for sharing your video! I’ve got a ‘62 C10 with a 235, and have been pondering the power steering addition. Glad you’ve shown that it can be done.
Your disc brakes with the six lug - did you make that conversion on the front? If yes, what size of wheel do you run? Been trying to work out if my stock wheels will work with disc (spent a lot of time restoring them and don’t want to lose them for a conversion).
Power steering works great. Really happy I did it.
With regard to the wheels, my stock wheels on the back were 5 1/2 inch x 15 inch and these will not clear the calipers on the disk brakes up front. I wound up replacing wheels with 1973 to 1987 Chevy C10 wheels which are 6 x 15, 6 lug, and clear the calipers. They also fit on the back where I kept the drum brakes. Unfortunately, these wheels are getting hard to find. I got one aftermarket wheel that was supposed to be the same but did not clear the calipers without adding a spacer, and the hub cap didn't fin on right. I use that one as the spare.
@@ron12april Thanks a bunch for the reply! I was afraid that might be the case with the wheels since the stamp on mine said 15X5K. Maybe the disc conversion will happen some day in the future (plus the power brake addition).
Thanks again!!!
Did you convert from non-power steering to a upgraded power steering? I have an old 77 deluxe w/o power steering. I will need to install a pump. Any suggestions will appreciated.
Yes. this is a conversion from standard steering to power steering. Google search shows pumps, brackets and boxes available for 1977 Oldsmobile
i need to get a shaft like that
If your old shaft is not bent you can just cut to right length and have machine shop grind down two flats to make a double D joint. Then mount a double D to double D universal followed by the short double D shaft.
If your old shaft is not bent you can just cut to right length and have machine shop grind down two flats to make a double D joint. Then mount a double D to double D universal followed by the short double D shaft.
Where did you get your collapsible steering shaft?
Rag joint to double D piece part of CPP power steering kit, but also available separately from CPP. Stainless double D shaft also from CPP. The short shaft that I used was from CPP but through ebay. For some reason the short version only through their ebay store. Saved a few bucks by not having to cut down a longer one.
@@ron12april Thanks! Ron
@@ron12april do you know the short shaft part number.
@@ihatesjws1188 the shortest stainless shaft in the CPP catalog is 22" part number CPP1850SS
They had shorter listed on ebay when I bought mine but do not see it listed now.
can't even hear you. speak up ffs
Sorry, not sure what happened to the audio. I'll go back to original and see if I can fix and reissue.