Brake pipe basics for British and European vehicles

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 พ.ย. 2017
  • A bit of information about brake pipes - materials and fittings
    If you have a pre 2005 Land Rover problem and do not know how to fix it, drop me a line! Maybe I can help!
    britrest@britrest.com
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ความคิดเห็น • 43

  • @theTarotchild-d6w
    @theTarotchild-d6w 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Clear and concise good tips!

  • @franklinarguedas4832
    @franklinarguedas4832 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thank you for your reply, I think that in most cases, we only use 3/16 and 1/4 inch flaring dies. The problem for me will be the weight of the tool, it will cost a fortune to bring it to Sydney, Australia. Why don't you come over to Australia for a holiday and bring one for me? Kidding!

  • @qzorn4440
    @qzorn4440 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    very nice tubing and how to video... the real deal.. thanks...:)

  • @scotisland
    @scotisland 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Very useful.

  • @xxwookey
    @xxwookey 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Useful overview. I've got your leftmost flaring tool and it's worked pretty well for me, but I agree a nice quick manly direct-press jobby is much better (off the car). What's wrong with a male/female tube nut in-line connection (one single flare, one double flare). Manufacturers use them (e.g. mondeos) (admittedly with steel rather than cunifer pipe) so it can't be that bad. Plenty of cunifer kits come with 10 male, 10 female nuts and clearly intend for you to use this method. There is less weight on the pipe which could be an advantage (fatigue?). You are meshing two flares together which might be an issue, but it's not obvious to me why it shouldn't work reasonably safely.

    • @BritannicaRestorations
      @BritannicaRestorations  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      You said it - you mesh 2 flares together - better with a steel connector

  • @urmilshah4226
    @urmilshah4226 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    What is the elongation % for this brake tubes?

  • @projectdalekmark
    @projectdalekmark ปีที่แล้ว

    I've got a particularly difficult breakline repair under the rear right wheelarch. How sould I cut the initial pipe off. Should I pull it out from under the wheel arch with fome string or something?

  • @dudewasteyourtime1
    @dudewasteyourtime1 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks really helpful video. I bought a car recently and in MOT check online it advices to replace brake pipes. Where can i get this cunifer pipes? Any good sites which sell geniune. Thanks

    • @BritannicaRestorations
      @BritannicaRestorations  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Most auto parts shop sell this now - there is no brand name but sometimes asking for nickel pipe helps

  • @jameswaugh115
    @jameswaugh115 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I used that one that you said not to use & it leaks

  • @liambrown1216
    @liambrown1216 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Great Vid, thanks for the advice. How much will a garage charge (approximately) to replace brake lines?

    • @BritannicaRestorations
      @BritannicaRestorations  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Not sure

    • @markw3922
      @markw3922 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      That is a (how long is a piece of string) question, cut a short finger piece or a piece as long as your arm or the whole reel & some ! the charge will be all dependant on accessibility of the pipe vehicle type how many components need removing to strip out the old pipe, how many fittings required. formula will be labour time per hr x hourly rate £30-£100 per hr + pipe + fittings + brake fluid + sundries that may be used i.e. brake cleaner, rags. a short easily replaced in your face piece is likely going to £60. vs drop a fuel tank both front to back pipe runs of the vehicle with new clips likely be £300. pipe should be securely clipped to the vehicle to negate vibration & rubbing causing brake failure, don't be tempted to just push a pipe over a tank & leave it to fail around secure the whole pipe properly this can take some extra time but its the correct way & that costs a little more so don't just go with the cheapest option when it comes to brake repairs

    • @liambrown1216
      @liambrown1216 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@markw3922 thanks Mark, really appreciate the reply.

  • @the1stime
    @the1stime 22 วันที่ผ่านมา +1

    I’m currently replacing rear brake pipes on a 2002 P38. As you probably know, there’s a long run going wheel to wheel that’s difficult to access. Any tips for snapping the new brake pipe into the clips in that area? TIA

    • @BritannicaRestorations
      @BritannicaRestorations  22 วันที่ผ่านมา +1

      Not sure which pipe you mean but on older trucks I tend to use metal P clips with rubber inserts that screw to the chassis/body

    • @the1stime
      @the1stime 21 วันที่ผ่านมา +1

      Yeah the P38 has a 1” channel between the cross frame beam and the floor. No access unless you cut out the floor. The best solution I can come up with is to sleeve a larger rubber hose over the length of pipe to protect it from abrasions and rust

    • @BritannicaRestorations
      @BritannicaRestorations  16 วันที่ผ่านมา +1

      That will work

  • @purpleguitar14
    @purpleguitar14 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I’m in quebec! Do you know where I can get a good flaring tool? I bought one of those cheap ones and broke the first time i used it’n

    • @BritannicaRestorations
      @BritannicaRestorations  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Has to be a turret type - the cheap ones are not worth opening the box
      see here for examples
      www.amazon.ca/s?k=turret+brake+flaring+tool&ref=nb_sb_noss

  • @colintx800
    @colintx800 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    When it comes to connecting a male and female end of a brake line, do you flare both ends as a double flare or do you connect a double flare to a bubble flare ? I've done everything on cars but never done brake lines before.

    • @BritannicaRestorations
      @BritannicaRestorations  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      You should use a metal connector not two pipes together

    • @colintx800
      @colintx800 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@BritannicaRestorations Sorry I should have been more clear :) When I connect a male and female connector together, should the flare inside both male and female connectors both have double flares ? or would a male connector have a bubble flare and female connector have a double flare ?

    • @BritannicaRestorations
      @BritannicaRestorations  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      If you have a correct joint then they can be male or female either end
      You can see some pictures here
      www.fedhillusa.com/?page=metricthread
      Are you trying to join two pipes together?

  • @georgetech380
    @georgetech380 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi can i ask you please ,i have honda jazz 54 plate ,small corrosion on my rear brake pipe
    2 questions if i may
    before i cut the pipe how do i know if is metric or imperial (as far i am aware imperial has stop about 1980) after that everybody in Europe using metric but i am not sure
    second question to connect the 2 pipes you said better use the female connector
    if that is the case i presume i need to make bubble flare with male Nuts ?
    regards

    • @BritannicaRestorations
      @BritannicaRestorations  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      It will be metric
      Yes you can connect pipes if using a female connector with male pipe fittings both sides

    • @georgetech380
      @georgetech380 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks for your answer, do you think the cheap eBay flare tool will do to flare the original pipe on the vehicle? I am only going to use it once .

    • @miggystoon7892
      @miggystoon7892 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@georgetech380 hi George, did you buy flaring kit? And did it work?

    • @georgetech380
      @georgetech380 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@miggystoon7892 Hi no I haven't ,after another inspection wasn't that bad and I didn't do anything ,I still have the car but I am if I keep it will have to repair it
      , Finally I did find out is metric . Thanks

    • @miggystoon7892
      @miggystoon7892 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@georgetech380 ok, I am just looking into whether I could do the job or not. I'm not a mechanic bit like to try DIY

  • @franklinarguedas4832
    @franklinarguedas4832 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Sir, where can I, in Australia, get a flaring tool like the ex-army one you have?
    Amazon does not sell that kind of tools

    • @BritannicaRestorations
      @BritannicaRestorations  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Check out Sykes-Pickavant in the UK
      www.sykes-pickavant.com/
      Mine is the old model, but the newer one has a turret - to tell you the truth I only used the 3/16 and 1/4 pipe size

  • @johnnyversaci7091
    @johnnyversaci7091 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I have a fitting on mine looks like that single female union u showed? Never have seen these before I'm in US are they safe?

    • @BritannicaRestorations
      @BritannicaRestorations  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yes but it depends on the brake type you are using - Land Rovers have a mix of male and female flares - you must replace like with like - for example, on the ends of the flexible hose steel threaded part, you need a female fitting to make a seal, but in the calliper casting you need a male bubble to make a good seal - the opposite way round will leak and could cause accidents! Check first!

    • @johnnyversaci7091
      @johnnyversaci7091 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@BritannicaRestorations right right, this fitting has not leaked or anything with the male side being a bubble flare just have never seen this single female union before

  • @keithrimmer3
    @keithrimmer3 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Hi Mike can you turn your sound up a bit i am a bit mutton jeff

  • @ethelmini
    @ethelmini ปีที่แล้ว

    I know you didn't say it, but just to be clear....
    You can't put an imperial fastener into a metric threaded component or vice versa.
    The common sizes are M10x1 & 3/8UNF. 3/8 of an inch is about 9.75mm so they will screw in. They normally feel loose, but if you're fighting a little bit to get the pipe aligned it's easy not to notice. Metric also fits in imperial, but binds after a few turns - potentially error prevention, but not great if you wreck the threads. Have some spare unions to test fit if you're unsure.
    Of course you can have different thread types on opposite ends of the same pipe. It's not uncommon, even from the factory. I guess it was rationalising the spare parts supply. The vehicle type could have used the same rear wheel cylinders for decades so they stuck with one thread pattern, even if master cylinders changed (e.g. from single to dual) and used metric threads to be more compatible with modern trends & tools.
    Also, you definitely cannot join 2 flared ends together without a proper joiner!
    ...one of those coils looks like (seamless) copper, which is available and can be used, but spend a bit more & use Kunifer, it resists fatigue better.