How to Make Brake Pipes 16 Tips / Stages!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ส.ค. 2024
- Making Double flared brake pipe - 16 Tips! (and stages)
1. Practice on spare pipe first.
2. Use plumbers pipe cutter to cut brake pipe.
3. Measure the length needed using some plastic pipe that easily bends around the route required.
4. Flatten the pipe end with a file. Clamp pipe in the flaring tool.
5. Remove burr from inside pipe & add a light chamfer to inside using a knife.
6. Chamfer the outside end with a file.
7. Don't forget to fit your pipe fittings now IF this is the last end joint!
8. Use a quality flaring tool.
9. Clamp tool in vice.
10. Set the pipe in the tool protruding with the pipe height to first edge on die
11. Lubricant with brake fluid on pipe and die, top and bottom.
12. Set top of tool twisted, so up against bottom part, so fixed at 90 degrees vertically. Check alignment!
13. After squashing down with die until die touches tool, remove and check pipe end is symmetric and has a squashed bubble end, if not start again!
14. Remove die carefully by turning and wiggling (easy to break the die end off here if too harsh) and squash pipe down a bit more with just the cone of the top tool to lightly increase the flare and double over the end a bit more.
15. Don't over do this last stage, better to do a couple of light squashes and check inbetween than do it too squashed and weakened.
16. Use a pipe blender tool on tight pipe bends.
Here is where to buy the tools required:
Draper pipe flaring tool: amzn.to/2bxd2zk. (Amazon USA)
amzn.to/2c8B0Fn (Amazon UK)
Copper brake pipe and joints:
amzn.to/2bLpApQ (Amazon USA)
amzn.to/2bQvB48 (Amazon UK)
Pipe cutter:
amzn.to/2bLMA5q (Amazon USA)
amzn.to/2bQwv0n (Amazon UK)
Pipe bender:
amzn.to/2bxn1Ez (Amazon USA)
amzn.to/2bQwOsb (Amazon UK)
Or if you prefer EBay for the tools and stuff just search on there, here's the draper flaring tool to start off on eBay USA:
rover.ebay.com/...
Or eBay UK:
rover.ebay.com/...
Rubber disposible gloves are also useful, here's the links for
eBay USA: ebay.us/GGqmTJ
eBay UK: ebay.us/cE1BHK
Amazon UK: amzn.to/3aikbl8
Amazon USA: amzn.to/3cdwjpD
Amazon Canada: amzn.to/2Q0VHZm
Amazon Australia: amzn.to/2QlUawX
Note that there is a small difference between imperial and metric brake fittings, the male fitting nut is slightly smaller on imperial so buy accordingly. Most cars from the last 20 years at least should be metric I believe.
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The video is about my personal opinion and experience and contains no paid for product placements. No responsibility is accepted for any perceived recommendation for or against a product or feature nor any consequential damage or harm since this video is just my personal experience. You accept by watching this video that you accept any responsibility for any subsequent actions or decisions that you take. Please be aware of what type of material (copper, copper/nickel or steel) is allowed to be used for brake pipes in your country and buy accordingly.
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Brilliant video, just about to start on my project pipes
Thanks. Can I ask a small favour, if you buy anything from amazon or ebay could you open the amazon or ebay page with one of my links in the video description, even if it’s for buying something else. That way I get a very small commission and it’s still the same price for you. Thanks.
I bought the Blackline flaring tool which seems to be the best one out there. Good video, thanks.
Cheers
I've done a lot of fuel and brake lines - this is a great video.
Small comment - the cutting tool usually has a deburring blade on it. Its heavier than a knife blade and does a good job of cleaning/chamfering the inside end. Leveling the end of the line as you showed is often overlooked.
Thanks for your comments.
Clear straightforward great video. Thank you
Hi. Great video simple straightforward and clear. Thank you
Thanks!
Thanks, some very useful good tips:
1. Use a vice
2. file the end of the tubing flat
3. lubricate and deburr the tubing
4 check your work
Thanks for a great video, exactly what I was looking for! Plenty of time spent spinning spanners but have never needed to make my own brake lines until now, having discovered how much braided lines are for my restoration project :( Rgds. Lin.
Thanks. Good luck with your project.
Thanks very much for spending the time for such a clear and organized vid. Now about to set to on my '62 mini, adding a bias valve. Cheers!
Thanks.
Remember brake pipe fitting are not metric on B.L.C Rust buckets, Ops Mini's
Outstanding video. Straight to the point. Thank you for taking the time to put this together.
Thanks very much.
Very helpful.thanks for taking the time to show us
Cheers
Excellent demonstration keep up the good work
Thanks.
Great Tips. Thanks
Patrick from Bethesda, Maryland, USA
Cheers.
Brilliant reminder and some great tips many thanks for making the guide I'll reference time and time again
Thanks
really informative thank you for taking the time out to show us how it is done
My pleasure, thanks.
Thankyou very much I've got to tackle this soon as my car failed it's mot on all of them looking forward to the challenge I noticed your using draper and also noticed the better quality in the metal to that of the cheaper versions personally I do like draper tools, also that look like copper pipe there that you were using but I'm planning on using cupro nickel as I've been told it's more weather proof
Yes I've heard cupro nickel are a bit stronger, but copper is strong enough and I've used it on several cars with no problems. Copper is certainly easier to bend. Maybe try a bit of both types while practising the pipe flaring.
I believe copper pipe is not strong enough for vehicles with ABS brakes, due to the high pressure .
Copper is OK for vintage cars without ABS.
Just a note, you have used a bubble flare nut on a double flare. It will work but the correct nut to go with a double flare has no step at the end, instead the threads go to the end of the nut, here is an image that shows it i.imgur.com/ZF6dSoB.png
The image says never interchange them, TBH I think thats a bit overstated, I have a vehicle where someone has used bubble flare nuts on double flared tubes and it works fine (I think the Cupro line seals quite a bit better than steel) but just thought I'd mention it.
Thanks for your useful input.
Great tutorial and great tool!!! Best Regards... Pablo De Oliveira
Cheers
If you need to use pliers to remove the Die from the flare you have left too much pipe through the tool to start with. If you mount the tool 90 degrees around it is easier to view the tool and the flare as it's made. You don't need to file the end of the pipe if you sue a cutter such as you have.
Radical, sir
Well made video. Very helpful! Thanks
Cheers
Exelent job thank you
Thanks
Very useful video thank you.
Thanks.
I would like to add to the cutter use. Do not try to cut the complete cut in just a few turns. If you tighten it down as you turn like a bear would you can press the inside and make much harder to clean out. Great video.👍😃
Thanks, good tip.
Great tutorial!
Thank you very much :)
Thanks. Very kind of you.
Thanks,need to tackle brake lines on my Silverado 2004 this week end.This video will be helpful.
Good to hear, thanks.
4:50 great advice. I was never sure how to get it right myseld
Cheers
Don't use a stanley knife to deburr the pipe after cutting. The pipe cutters have one built in on the back! Much safer.
Yep I know but the knife is more effective as it’s sharper. Take care though!
@@comeinhandynow - Much faster and rather efficient. Use a countersink bit on any drill. Take just a second and comes up perfect every time!
A hand held countersink works perfectly also. Notice both external and internal countersunk make life way easier. If you do enough of these it makes all sense to had it to the tool box. ;-)
Cheers
@@crpth1Thanks, good tip.
Nicely done. Good video.
Thanks
Thank you, :)
Useful video! Thanks
Cheers
good instructions however I wouldnt use a file to tighten anything, you need to look after your tools and they will last forever.
Yes, files are for filing!!
It was really old and fairly worthless and no harm done.
@@comeinhandynow
Not so much that, it’s cast so will snap and fire sharp shards at you!
Great vid though.
One of the easiest way to ream the inside of the tube is to use a drill bit that has a sharper ground lead angle. Way easier that using a sharp utility knife and oops you cut your fingers. Good day too. VF
Thanks for the suggestion.
Yes, practice as many as you want before you try it on the actual project. Invest extra money and get a quality tool.
Good advice.
Thank you for this
Cheers. P.S. now on facebook as well facebook.com/comeinhandynow
thanks for that. V handy. Wheres my file ...
Cheers
Nice video, cheers for sharing.
Thanks.
Be sure to blow the pipe out after you file the end, otherwise, you'll have file shavings in your brake lines, not good.
yep
Don't know if it's me or my new.. Single handed tool, but I've got a kind of spiral type effect under the flare
JUST A TIP ALL WAYS PUT THE NUT ON FIRST
damn i always forget sometimes..... ohwell recut lol...
Superb. We all owe you a pint
Look forward to it! Lol.
You're using the wrong nut in your demo. That style nut is for Bubble Flare connections.
Nope that Draper tool is for single or double lap flares (SAE double flares). amzn.to/3jUmfVq
@@comeinhandynow I'm referring to the nut on the tube. 09:33 The absence of threads on the end indicates it's for a Bubble Flare connection. Single and Double flare use a nut with thread all the way to the end.
@@WApnj Thanks for the clarification. You could be right. I wasn’t aware of the nut differences. There is a lot of mixing up of types if that is the case. I recently bought some ready made pipes that had different nut types on each end with bubble flares but another supplier had non threaded end nuts on both ends. Thanks for your input.
Excellent tutorial.
Cheers
Tip -When filing the pipe do it so the pipe is facing down so no copper filings/burrs enter the pipe.
Thanks, blowing it out with some air would also be good.
@@comeinhandynow Aye but best off not to get any debris in the pipe first - Using a pipe cutter means you should not need to use the file after - Nice F type BTW : D
Use a good flairing tool, is the best advise. The cheap ones at the chain part stores are shit. One I bought: the holes were too small, compressing fhe pipe. The dies and press were not well fitting, they wobbled while turning.
I agree, the one I have just got is very average the holes are too small on it, I have used a better quality one and it was easier to get good flares. i've been wondering about trying one of these types restosupplies.co.nz/on-car-flaring as I only ever work on the 3/16 line anyway.
V Good.
Ta.
Very good vid! Thanks for the link to it. :)
Cheers!
Could you provide a complete list of tools you are using in this video? * including procedure list...Thanks
In video description. Copied here:
Here is where to buy the tools required:
Draper pipe flaring tool: amzn.to/2bxd2zk. (Amazon USA)
amzn.to/2c8B0Fn (Amazon UK)
Copper brake pipe and joints:
amzn.to/2bLpApQ (Amazon USA)
amzn.to/2bQvB48 (Amazon UK)
Pipe cutter:
amzn.to/2bLMA5q (Amazon USA)
amzn.to/2bQwv0n (Amazon UK)
Pipe bender:
amzn.to/2bxn1Ez (Amazon USA)
amzn.to/2bQwOsb (Amazon UK)
There’s a reamer on your pipe cutter.👍
Thanks, yes I did know that, but its bluntness meant it wasn’t quite so good at removing burs, it tended to just spread them instead.
Fair point sir.😉
Great video. I've just picked up a new sealey branded kit for flaring, I got a really bad one online, so bad the arms on the A frame were out of line with each other and no matter how tight I tried to clamp the pipe it just kept slipping through. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks. There is a lot of bad quality cheaply made stuff out there, usually Chinese. I am starting to get fed up with it. A lot of the electric stuff is dangerous.
I'm curious... This pipe looks like copper, is this some kind of fancy alloy you use in Europe? Here in Canada we use soft steel and we're always told to make sure NOT to use copper...
That being said I haven't had to do brake lines since the 70s so I'm a bit rusted (my brakes lines are far worse, hahaha)!!! Nice demonstration on the bubble joint system!
Thanks, yes copper is allowed, in UK. I guess it can be more prone to rock damage but the advantage is it doesn't rust of course.
Thank you sir!
Cheers!
Would have been nice to see finished result installed?
Not sure DOT considers copper legal. I spent $200 on a good flaring tool and made my lines from steel. Not wanting to take a chance of brake failure with copper.
To be honest I am not sure either, buy it is allowed on the MOT test and a common thing to do on classic cars. Not as strong as steel but a lot more flexible.
So many videos are confused with the american videos and the tools that everyone has have no instructions.
From what i can work out a bubble end which is used in Europe and can mate with a double flare when using female and male nuts. But to make the bubble you should use the flat side of the clamping tool and a double flare is a female shaped end which you described how to do.
Literally everyone is getting this wrong or have been confused by most of the american videos which don't often cover how to make a bubble and what ends mate with a bubble, which actually appears to be a double flare.
There is not one video i can find where someone uses a metric tool and makes one end male (bubble) and one end female (double).
There are only american videos explaining how you can make metric ends if you cheat the cheap tools that everyone have by using the flat side of the clamp to make a bubble and the concave side to make doubles.
Also it appears that you need to leave more brake pipe protruding when making a bubble than when making a double.
I have always made bubbles in the concave side but found that they only just make a connection and sometimes you are desperately cranking the nuts up super tight to stop them from dripping. Finally they make some sort of connection but only from forcing them into the union.
If only someone could cover this topic correctly! Seems very dangerous to me that so many people are confused on this subject.
Interesting perspective on differing applications. Personally I’ve only had to make double flare female pipe joints because that is what all the brake connections have required. If you want to join two bits of pipe I use a pipe joint part that takes two female flared pipes.
How much do you tighten the fittings? Finger tight plus one turn seems to work but I can't find any such specification in writing. The copper aloy tubes require much less torque than steel.
Quite firm hand tight on a small spanner is how I would describe it.
What are some good inline solutions for when the line cannot be disconnected from the car and you are laying on your back on the ground?
You need to trace the line back to the nearest junction and remove the whole section and replace with copper pipes, or a pre-made steel section from the OEM.
@ Yes, I wished I'd used that one
It's not a "pleasant" experience, but this same tool can be used while "laying on your back on the ground"! I've done enough of them like that, to say it can be done! And most on OEM steel pipes. Which is a pain in the back bottom part! LOL 😂
are there two kinds of flares? the pipe that goes from my brake calliper to the brake hose seem to have slightly different flares on each end? one seems more dished shape, the one to the brake hose and the one to the brake calliper is I think more like the one yo have done here, was the dished shaped one the flare you made first before putting the tool back on it?
Yes, on brake lines you will find an inverted flare (shown in this video) and then there is a bubble flare. You might find this site helpful it explains the flare types for you. www.fedhillusa.com/?page=flare
What is the end on the other pipe that is joing up to like ?? Are they both the same shape or is another tool needed
You would have a joiner adapter piece with parts that match.
@@comeinhandynow I've only used the handheld ones before where you can do the 2 types and use a male and female together. The handheld ones are a bit flimsy so thought I'd get one of these types. I'll need to get some straight adapters now
I think choosing thicker coated steel material is leading to some bad results. Following these steps and getting misformed, lopsided results. Maybe the heavy stuff is only suitable for machine shop level tools and presses.
Yes these tools and this guide is only for copper pipes. Just replace the steel pipe with copper. They are much easier to bend and install. If you want to use steel just buy that pre-made section from the car manufacturers dealer.
The pipe cutter has a blade on the back for cleaning the pipe end a knife is not a good idea unless you have a lot of plasters..
It wasn’t a very good blade on the pipe cutter i had, too blunt.
What about the pipe still connected to the car? How would that be flared?
Other pipes like that would be made and flared off the car normally (often bought ready made as well).
@@comeinhandynow I will have to take a look. I would prefer to replace the pipe myself.
The kit is cheap enough.
@@kennethsmith6022 Agree. Best wishes.
Is that iso or sae? Make sure you make the right type for your car, most European cars are iso now, that was an sae die if I'm not mistaken?
Good question. Some useful discussion on this here: www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/size-does-it-matter-on-flaring-tools-dies.4679/
I can only seam to find brake piping that is packaged in a circular role.
Anone know where you can purchace straight lengths of brake pipe? Preferably UK suppliers.
Copper brake pipe it easily bent, so just straighten out the coiled up supplied.
it is so easy to straighten just roll it out as you wood a carpet
Why is it that no matter how many times I do what is instructed within these instructions, I can still not get the pipe to squash inwards?
Try altering the amount of pipe that sticks out of the tool before the first squash stage. Or the die (the bit that goes in the end of the copper pipe) is of poor shape / quality.
I tried differnt lenghts and still no good. Then I done some more research into flaring tool and discovered thereare diffenret flraring kits available and that some only do single flares whils others do double flares and bubble flares. Unfortunately my kit only does single flares.
Glad you found the reason. Thanks for sharing.
I'll certainly find out better when my new flare kit arrives and see how it goes with that.
My new flare kit arrived and it's is superior to the other kit I have, it does a perfect bubble flare each time. I even achived this wihtout the need to file the pipe ends and my brakes work better than ever. This kit also doe other flares which i haven't attempted to do as I had no need for them, though I'm sure it will do a good job. Here's a link to the other kit: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Pipe-Flaring-Tool-TRIDENT-T413701-3-16-316/183233962008?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Ur expensive tool takes twice to make perfect flair
Eh? Expensive?
is that a d1 i see nice colour
Yep, cheers
See his damn Harbor Freight bender does 180 Degrees. My damn OEM bender can only do 90 Degrees and Creates a 5 inch wide U-turn for coming under a brake tree. OEM Waffle Press Brake Line Bender is garbage. Even if okay priced. Get the regular circle bender, mini bender, or hand pliers bender.
Hi Neil of 'Cidi Al-Masry' Sidi Al-Masri Sandage - Save yourself a bunch of tinkering and some money.
Use a socket with a radius convenient for whatever you're bending.
Voilá.
Simple, effective, way cheaper, reusable, "add other nice adjectives" to your new found tool, according to your liking. LOL :-)
Cheers
the ones from eBay from china are no good? oh no just installed on jeep
Always makes me question the advice when simple tools aren't used correctly... (file)
Surprising the number of people who comment about this small part. The file was very old and is very little used. I found another use for it! ;)
@@comeinhandynow it wasn't the other use. It was a file only files the material one way. If it is dragged back with the same pressure it doesn't file any material off, and blunts the file.
@@keithgrainger8797 On copper going the other way smooths off burrs, going the ‘normal’ way aggressively files off the copper. So useful both ways. Copper, being soft, is not going to blunt a steel file.
@@comeinhandynow ok. Sorry. It was just my initial thought when I saw it. Shouldn't have written anything. The video and advise was clear and helpful.
@@keithgrainger8797 Cheers
Not too impressed with using a file, A.without a handle & B, as a lever!
you missed point 8 , that draper tool is cheap and nasty relying on you to manually centre the tool over the pipe ! you also missed an important point out, after all that filing and deburing it might be an idea to blow out all the swarf you produced with an airline !
The draper tool worked quite well at a reasonable price. I did have a worse Chinese one. If you spend too much on tools it defeats the purpose of DIY, ends up the same price as paying a garage. Yes, blow it out, I gave the same comment 4 years ago in the comments “Thanks, blowing it out with some air would also be good.”