i believe the water trapped inside is intentional for balancing. Also, to remove the top, you don't need screwdrivers or putty knife. Just remove the top screws on the two bracket straps on the back of the machine and slide the entire top forward and it will lift up by hand. Other than that, this was a very helpful video. Thanks!
Did this same job yesterday. You are right, that you can't easily take off the lid like other videos! On mine, there 2 extra latches (hooks) on each side that makes lifting the lid difficult, even when you press on the front latches. The thing to do is to take off the bolts to the rear hindges & slide the whole top forward & up!!! .... no fuss! Then re-install the bottom bolts to the hindges. I used a rope to secure the top, from crashing backwards when I had the lid open. I was wondering if I was doing something wrong because the lid wouldn't open, but you got it on the money! ... & yeah the seal was installed backwards... the open part goes down first. In the long run, the water will rust away the seal spring, which is meant to put tension & help it seal. You can always buy the seal & just take it out with out distrubing the bearings, but I've noticed by the time you need to do this job again, it may be time for a new washer!!! They aren't ment to last forever. While it may still look like new on the outside, it's a different story on the inside!
You don't need grease on the bearing. It doesn't make it go on easier. Grease goes on the seal, not the bearings. Once the bearings are pressed in, the outside of the bearing stays in place, (it's the inside of the bearing that spins, not the outside)
Two items: One, the "arm" for the press goes in the tub to keep the threaded rod on the press form turning, though your way seemed to have worked. Two, you installed the seal upside down. It may work for awhile but you'll be at it again in the near future.
I’m having a hard time getting the top bearing off. Any suggestions? I’ve used flat head with hammer, other long hard items with hammer. Not moving. Shaft and bottoms came out
I believe the water in the interlining or the tub is meant to be there to help balance the machine during the spin cycle (as I heard in one of the other videos). The bearing are getting somewhat noisy in my Whirlpool Cabrio. After spending most of one morning researching and verifying part numbers, cross checking lots of venders parts I ordered a kit that had it all via Ebay. Today, I received that Kit (included bearings, shaft, shaft seal, tube of sealer, tube of lubricant, and the special tools) for $62 plus tax, and 2 day free shipping. Now, I viewing TH-cam 'how to' videos, so I could do the job myself. A repair quote given was $150 parts, $100 labor, $60 shipping, plus tax, and he was reluctant to do the job, but was kind enough to except my Whirlpool Clothes Washer at the shop for parts only … he said it would probably need a electronic board 6 months later anyway. So for $62, I'll roll the dice and doing it myself, but I'm not up for doing a diagnostic testing afterwards. I'm 70, but you can anything if you put your mind to it. I think I can, I think I can. Ha!!
Great job of explaining the process and with some good humor to boot! Sadly, we are using this video for the second time on our cabrio, or should we call it a craprio? Do get the seal in right, cavity at the bottom . Thanks Murphy you're a wife saver :)
I replaced my bearings that were shot. My stator is cracked but I reinstalled it. I reused the old shaft because the new shaft's skirt was too low and couldn't get the threads to show in the bottom after tightening the bearings x 3. When I compared it with the old shaft there was a 1/2 difference. So put it all back together and did first load with jeans and colors. All went great, very silent clothes came out all dry. The third load the machine was squeaking during spin and would throw the uL code even after I repositioned the clothes more than four times. What do you think is causing that? Cracked stator? Over tightened bearings?
Just did mine today, took about a half hour, i used a socket the same diameter as the bearings and just tapped them in , I used grey rtv on the outside edge and around the top edge of the seal worked good
The problem is this seal doesn't seal reliably. It fails after just a few years. Is there anything else than could be added? Or if there was a slight leakage couldn't a drain hole be added so that a slight amount of water leaking would not sit on top of the bearing?
Just my 2 cents; That bar for the special tool is for the TOP (not the bottom as shown) of that all-thread tool to be extending to the sump of the outer tub on top. We have to view this task a few times to get it right. I believe the inner ring of both bearing rotates with the shaft, the only thing that needing grease is the two cups inside that rubber seal for the shaft.
Ring on shaft does not seat snuggly against upper bearing (beat on it forever). Only like 2 threads sticking out bottom. Enough to get nut on but threads are not sticking out past washer. Seems like a lot of people are having this same issue. Any solution? Or call it good enough and hope for the best?
Someone else has probably pointed this out already; but, I'm too tired to read all the comments right now: What you referred to as a "counter-balance" is actually the magnetic rotor for the motor... It spins around the stator coils, to create the field which powers your washer...
we've replaced the bearings with the kit but after putting it together the washer won't spin. we've checked everything we can think of, any suggestions from anyone?
So my general guess is that maybe you don't have it slid back onto the drive shaft correctly. Also, ensure all the power connectors to the drive motor were reconnected
you can buy the whole kit, here: www.ebay.com/itm/W10447783-W10435302-Washer-Tub-Bearing-Shaft-Seal-Tool-Kit-For-whirlpool-Maytag/323353275129?hash=item4b495b6af9:g:o0EAAOSwqfhbTVYT
@@ww66fd I know it's a little late. I bought a cheaper aftermarket kit on eBay and the sleeve on the shaft was about 1/2 inch too low, hence couldn't get the threads to come out the bottom even after pounding and repressing bearings x 3. Finally when I compared it to the old shaft I noticed that difference so I reinstalled the old shaft.
The main issue with this machine (cabrio, oasis, centennial, bravos) is the CHEAP sealant that was used at the seal and continues to be sold. If seal did not leak you would NOT be repairing bearings in 2 years? I have serviced and repaired many washing machine bearing and seal failures. IMO I do not use the crappy glue provided by the failing brands. We use 3M 560 which is a product used by speed queen on their seal repairs. You will have to buy a tube and it costs approx 9 bucks? I would also slather it over the seals edge and to the tub plastic creating a water tight membrane. This will create a solid rubberized membrane which should not allow seepage into the seal. Proceed at your own risk just saying....
I replaced my bearings that were shot. My stator is cracked but I reinstalled it. I reused the old shaft because the new shaft's skirt was too low and couldn't get the threads to show in the bottom after tightening the bearings x 3. When I compared it with the old shaft there was a 1/2 difference. So put it all back together and did first load with jeans and colors. All went great, very silent clothes came out all dry. The third load the machine was squeaking during spin and would throw the uL code even after I repositioned the clothes more than four times. What do you think is causing that? Cracked stator? Over tightened bearings?
That locking bar goes on the inside of the tub on the threaded rod and you use a jam nut on the top of the rod to hold it in one place, the L on the bar jams against the tub in the drain area of the tub when you tighten the nut on the bottom of the rod ( after you installed the spacer, washer, bearing, bearing seat press small bearing and nut) it will push the bearings into their proper depth. Once you have put the seal in and tapped it in with the pvc pipe you are to put more sealant on top of the seal using a even coat of sealant and wait over night to let it cure before using the washer. You should look at this video on the proper way to do this job. th-cam.com/video/6EPoTFUaAWI/w-d-xo.html
Please do away with the music it is so distracting, we want to hear your explanation of what you are doing. There is no room around the washer for dancing.
Cabrio is junk. They cost way too much to have it wear out in a couple of years or so. My 27 year old Whirlpool still works well and only needed $2 tiny pawls in the agitator 3 years ago. It cleans clothes better and faster than today's $1,000 plus washers that will only last a few years. Repair costs are too high and this market is embarrassingly crappy.
i believe the water trapped inside is intentional for balancing. Also, to remove the top, you don't need screwdrivers or putty knife. Just remove the top screws on the two bracket straps on the back of the machine and slide the entire top forward and it will lift up by hand.
Other than that, this was a very helpful video. Thanks!
I used the flat end of my 6 foot post hole digging bar to pound the shaft of the transmission through the bottom of the tub. Worked like magic!
Did this same job yesterday. You are right, that you can't easily take off the lid like other videos! On mine, there 2 extra latches (hooks) on each side that makes lifting the lid difficult, even when you press on the front latches. The thing to do is to take off the bolts to the rear hindges & slide the whole top forward & up!!! .... no fuss! Then re-install the bottom bolts to the hindges. I used a rope to secure the top, from crashing backwards when I had the lid open. I was wondering if I was doing something wrong because the lid wouldn't open, but you got it on the money! ... & yeah the seal was installed backwards... the open part goes down first. In the long run, the water will rust away the seal spring, which is meant to put tension & help it seal. You can always buy the seal & just take it out with out distrubing the bearings, but I've noticed by the time you need to do this job again, it may be time for a new washer!!! They aren't ment to last forever. While it may still look like new on the outside, it's a different story on the inside!
Just did this today on an oasis, that metal bar is a must have when knocking them bearings out. Nice work dude!
You don't need grease on the bearing. It doesn't make it go on easier. Grease goes on the seal, not the bearings. Once the bearings are pressed in, the outside of the bearing stays in place, (it's the inside of the bearing that spins, not the outside)
Two items: One, the "arm" for the press goes in the tub to keep the threaded rod on the press form turning, though your way seemed to have worked. Two, you installed the seal upside down. It may work for awhile but you'll be at it again in the near future.
@Jason Adams - Too bad I saw your comment after watching the video. I also installed it upside down. Hope it lasts for a while.
I’m having a hard time getting the top bearing off. Any suggestions? I’ve used flat head with hammer, other long hard items with hammer. Not moving. Shaft and bottoms came out
I believe the water in the interlining or the tub is meant to be there to help balance the machine during the spin cycle (as I heard in one of the other videos). The bearing are getting somewhat noisy in my Whirlpool Cabrio. After spending most of one morning researching and verifying part numbers, cross checking lots of venders parts I ordered a kit that had it all via Ebay. Today, I received that Kit (included bearings, shaft, shaft seal, tube of sealer, tube of lubricant, and the special tools) for $62 plus tax, and 2 day free shipping. Now, I viewing TH-cam 'how to' videos, so I could do the job myself. A repair quote given was $150 parts, $100 labor, $60 shipping, plus tax, and he was reluctant to do the job, but was kind enough to except my Whirlpool Clothes Washer at the shop for parts only … he said it would probably need a electronic board 6 months later anyway. So for $62, I'll roll the dice and doing it myself, but I'm not up for doing a diagnostic testing afterwards. I'm 70, but you can anything if you put your mind to it. I think I can, I think I can. Ha!!
Agree
It is a good idea to replace the hub gear while in there.
Great job of explaining the process and with some good humor to boot! Sadly, we are using this video for the second time on our cabrio, or should we call it a craprio? Do get the seal in right, cavity at the bottom . Thanks Murphy you're a wife saver :)
I replaced my bearings that were shot. My stator is cracked but I reinstalled it. I reused the old shaft because the new shaft's skirt was too low and couldn't get the threads to show in the bottom after tightening the bearings x 3. When I compared it with the old shaft there was a 1/2 difference. So put it all back together and did first load with jeans and colors. All went great, very silent clothes came out all dry. The third load the machine was squeaking during spin and would throw the uL code even after I repositioned the clothes more than four times. What do you think is causing that? Cracked stator? Over tightened bearings?
Thanks jmurphy644. That was a helpful video.
There's supposed to be water inside the tub assembly. It's part of the load balancing mechanism.
That's inside the balance ring, not the tub itself
Yes for balancing. Live n learn.
@@doctorfeinstone6524 Yes. That's part of the tub assembly, which is what I said.
Just did mine today, took about a half hour, i used a socket the same diameter as the bearings and just tapped them in , I used grey rtv on the outside edge and around the top edge of the seal worked good
How did you know you had the right bearings for your cabrio, are they all the same for whirlpool cabrio models ?
The problem is this seal doesn't seal reliably. It fails after just a few years. Is there anything else than could be added? Or if there was a slight leakage couldn't a drain hole be added so that a slight amount of water leaking would not sit on top of the bearing?
Just my 2 cents; That bar for the special tool is for the TOP (not the bottom as shown) of that all-thread tool to be extending to the sump of the outer tub on top. We have to view this task a few times to get it right. I believe the inner ring of both bearing rotates with the shaft, the only thing that needing grease is the two cups inside that rubber seal for the shaft.
where can you buy the bearings and drive shaft
How did you get the wash plate out??
Spring side of seal is the bottom and goes in first.
Ring on shaft does not seat snuggly against upper bearing (beat on it forever). Only like 2 threads sticking out bottom. Enough to get nut on but threads are not sticking out past washer. Seems like a lot of people are having this same issue. Any solution? Or call it good enough and hope for the best?
Yeah, same here. Any luck anyone?
@@elric1409 it was the bearings. Had to press (squeeze) them together more to allow shaft to go down further.
Put the shaft in the freezer for a while.
Thank you
did we call the rotor a weight?
What is your shaft part number?
Dude! You put the seal up side down! The cavity goes down! You have to fill the cavity with grease and put the seallant on the outside of the seal...
Water in tub is normal it is for balance at high spin
how did you drained water out? there is no spout to drain water out.
I used a shop vac to remove the excess water from the outer tub and then just pat dry with a shop towel (or paper)
Thanks
Holy shit, I found exactly 75¢ too
Caught Hell Trying to Lift Top ! Nice Background Music !!!
Where did you rent that tool from online?
It comes with the install kit
Locking bar goes inside of tub not outside
my problem is cannot remove the wash plate or agitator, which you ignored in the video may be too easy for you.
Water in tub is for balancing
Did u ever find out if that water inside the barrel was normal? I took mine out today and have the same water sound inside the barrel…
Yes, it's normal. It acts as a counterweight to stabilize the spinning barrel
@@jmurphy644 Awesome, thank you for the response.
Someone else has probably pointed this out already; but, I'm too tired to read all the comments right now: What you referred to as a "counter-balance" is actually the magnetic rotor for the motor... It spins around the stator coils, to create the field which powers your washer...
He's talking about the fluid trapped inside the tub as the counterbalance.
we've replaced the bearings with the kit but after putting it together the washer won't spin. we've checked everything we can think of, any suggestions from anyone?
So my general guess is that maybe you don't have it slid back onto the drive shaft correctly. Also, ensure all the power connectors to the drive motor were reconnected
Tightened the bearing nut too tight.
I have that bearing press tool kit for $50. Come and get it
you can buy the whole kit, here: www.ebay.com/itm/W10447783-W10435302-Washer-Tub-Bearing-Shaft-Seal-Tool-Kit-For-whirlpool-Maytag/323353275129?hash=item4b495b6af9:g:o0EAAOSwqfhbTVYT
shaft will not go all the way in, on our repair of whirlpool cabrio
Same problem I been beating the hell out of it you ever get it?
@@ww66fd I know it's a little late. I bought a cheaper aftermarket kit on eBay and the sleeve on the shaft was about 1/2 inch too low, hence couldn't get the threads to come out the bottom even after pounding and repressing bearings x 3. Finally when I compared it to the old shaft I noticed that difference so I reinstalled the old shaft.
Try putting the shaft into the freezer.
The main issue with this machine (cabrio, oasis, centennial, bravos) is the CHEAP sealant that was used at the seal and continues to be sold. If seal did not leak you would NOT be repairing bearings in 2 years? I have serviced and repaired many washing machine bearing and seal failures. IMO I do not use the crappy glue provided by the failing brands. We use 3M 560 which is a product used by speed queen on their seal repairs. You will have to buy a tube and it costs approx 9 bucks? I would also slather it over the seals edge and to the tub plastic creating a water tight membrane. This will create a solid rubberized membrane which should not allow seepage into the seal. Proceed at your own risk just saying....
Where can I find 3M 560 sealant for $9 ?
@@davejoseph5615 Grainger sells it
$20. I wonder how it compares to McNett Aquaseal?
@@davejoseph5615 We use 3M 560 which is a product used by speed queen on their seal repairs. I have been using for years ...no call backs.
I replaced my bearings that were shot. My stator is cracked but I reinstalled it. I reused the old shaft because the new shaft's skirt was too low and couldn't get the threads to show in the bottom after tightening the bearings x 3. When I compared it with the old shaft there was a 1/2 difference. So put it all back together and did first load with jeans and colors. All went great, very silent clothes came out all dry. The third load the machine was squeaking during spin and would throw the uL code even after I repositioned the clothes more than four times. What do you think is causing that? Cracked stator? Over tightened bearings?
Why do u have 007 music playing....
That locking bar goes on the inside of the tub on the threaded rod and you use a jam nut on the top of the rod to hold it in one place, the L on the bar jams against the tub in the drain area of the tub when you tighten the nut on the bottom of the rod ( after you installed the spacer, washer, bearing, bearing seat press small bearing and nut) it will push the bearings into their proper depth. Once you have put the seal in and tapped it in with the pvc pipe you are to put more sealant on top of the seal using a even coat of sealant and wait over night to let it cure before using the washer.
You should look at this video on the proper way to do this job. th-cam.com/video/6EPoTFUaAWI/w-d-xo.html
NO NO NO NO GREASE ON PLASTIC
I think you the seal in wrong
Please do away with the music it is so distracting, we want to hear your explanation of what you are doing. There is no room around the washer for dancing.
Cabrio is junk. They cost way too much to have it wear out in a couple of years or so. My 27 year old Whirlpool still works well and only needed $2 tiny pawls in the agitator 3 years ago. It cleans clothes better and faster than today's $1,000 plus washers that will only last a few years. Repair costs are too high and this market is embarrassingly crappy.
The worst designed washer behind the Original maytag/frigidaire design along with front loaders, all trash