This is needed if your washer shows a UL error. The Maytag Bravos XL is the same washer and uses the same parts. This is one of the best edited DIY videos on the internet. No time was wasted showing the removal of each screw and the explanations are clear and concise without any excessive talk. Listing the parts and tools used is something that many DIY videos do not have. The 2x4 should be turned sideways because it won't flex as much and it will not require as much height from the jack. Never hammer a shaft directly because it could mushroom. A millimeter difference is sometimes enough to cause a fit problem. Place a piece of wood on top of the shaft or use a brass hammer or mallet.
I applaud you for showing a little of the real world of appliance repair. So many others on boobtube are disassembling brand new nuts , from clean new shafts in eleven seconds- it's sickening to me. When I battle with these rusted deteriorating transmission shafts, o abused washers every other day. By the way , if you do many of these, a centermount tool exists- without using an auto jack- to pull the tub off the shaft.
@@bundysgarage It’s almost impossible to take a photo from eBay and send it to you so it’s called sensible products tub puller tool Sensible Products CTP-1 Tub Puller Tool for Whirlpool Kenmore Cabrio Washers. From McCombs supply in pa- If you can get that damn cavitator off - this will definitely remove the tub it’s a Godsend 🙂
Just Google Sensible Product Tub Puller. Found it on EBay for $130 bucks. If I was doing these every single day I might buy one. But if I’m just doing one which is my washer, I’ll stick with the car scissor jack.
Omg Finally a video that shows my exact washer and how to replace the bearings and seal without that damn tool. You just don't know how grateful I am ! I've been fighting with this damn washer for weeks. It leaks from the bottom something fierce. Thank You!!
Once upon a time, Maytag stood for quality. This is trash. Very interesting video and lots of skill - thanks. I'm still using the Maytag washer I bought in the late-70's when I got my first home. Only repair? The built-to-slip belts and little sliders for the motor. After seeing what this 'washer' looks like inside - and hearing my friends all complain about the cleaning (lack of), I'm going to keep my ancient Maytag going forever.
Good video. That “mold” isn’t mold. It a mixture of the dirt from the clothes and detergent that doesn’t get rinse out of the machine. Washers hold several gallons of water at all times. This water helps keep the seals on the outer tub and the drain valve from drying out. Pouring a gallon of white distilled vinegar in your washer once a month will help prevent this nasty stuff from building up. Just let the vinegar soak for an hour or more than run the washer on a quick wash cycle WITHOUT clothes or detergent.
It actually is mold, or can be. If something is wet and stays wet, it will grow mold unless you tub clean to kill it. Yes there's also dirt, grime and soap scum too. The standing water in my washer only added up to about 32oz .
The vinegar trick works well. We have the same washer for over 10 years and it never looked like this. I don't know what they are washing in it, but it looks like they are just nasty.
Great video.Just finished with with tub stuck on shaft wtw8000bwo.Tore it all apart Myself after repairman wanted a Couple Hundred to do job.Didn't have to change Bearings yet,but your video very informative ,Thanks
Outstanding video! much more realistic than some others I've seen--I appreciate you sharing the info ! One comment: I have a repair friend who says the mold like sediment often comes from heavy use of fabric softener...I do share your view of Cabrio's--awful. Hate that we can't control water level or time precisely--and of course the whole complexity and quality issues you raised. Thanks!!
Using PB Blaster on that shaft will help greatly in getting out that hub. I used a small bottle jack with the 2 x 4 it work out great in getting out the drum. Before you start hook up a shop vac to the drain hose to suck out all the water that is left in the tube. Making sure that the washer is level with a slight tilt to the rear with help the washer to drain the water in the tube when the pump is running. There is a clean the washer cycle on Cabrio washer use it and the tube will stay cleaner and not smell this should be done once a month using affresh.
THANKS FOR THIS! I've been going through those replacement plastic W10820039 Hubs every 4,5 months now...teeth of the plastic wearing down to nothing, no spin cycle "SD" error, Fearing this could be a Bearing issue now, that this needs replacement. Video helps! As for Whirlpool Cabrios, I never HATED a washing machine more than this pile of junk! Never cleaned the clothes right....also yes, this toxic like build up of God knows what in the tub. Few shirts I washed on Sunday came out stinking to high hell. (did the washer machine cleaner), thats when I noticed the SD error...yet again. Thinking now forget this job...and just get a new washer.
LOL, I made the same bearing press tool that I used to press bearing on my bicycle. I also used two 1/2in-to-1/4in copper pipe adapters, one to go on after the washer that goes on the bearings to center them in place.
Hey, there! Another fellow Riversider, here! I'm out here in Woodcrest wondering why my Cabrio washer stops spinning during the wash cycle and gives me an "OL" (overload) code. Decided to watch some YT fixit vids and found yours. Well, it's 2021 and I hope you and yours have stayed healthy. Take it easy. 👍
I love other Cabrio bearing removal videos where washtub pulls right out. I’d add: (1) Plan on having to use jack to lift tub, so have wood (21 3/4”) & jack ready at beginning of process. Also, have a 13mm socket available to pull tub: rest it on top of the drive shaft…put wood on top of the socket and continue lifting tub the last 1/2”. (2) When installing bearings, the 4” spacer tube and bottom bearing washer may slide around during install, making drive shaft insertion impossible. You may have to reseat lower bearing a few times. Also, the spacer tube I received in my bearing kit may have been out of round, so I re-used original sleeve (which was actually thicker metal). (3) Not many videos discuss how long you should let kit sealant dry on seal before using washing machine. I’ve read from 6-24 hours! (I’m waiting 24 hours to be safe.) (4) I noticed cracks on the stator. That was unexpected. I patched cracks using JB Weld Epoxy. (5) Watch a video on how to replace the STATOR. It’s more detailed and will help you move faster (clips, magnets, wire removal) when you get to that step in bearing removal.
Thanks for the fantastic video. My problem with this model washer is that the washing plate won’t move. The barrel seems to move normally, but the washplate “moves” as one with the barrel. I also cannot manually move it. How do I fix this? Please let me know. I looked underneath, but I can’t see what to do. I was thinking maybe an agitator part needed to be replaced, but the underside of this model doesn’t look like the underside of other Whirlpool washers. There doesn’t look to be easily accessible parts underneath. Please help me. I don’t think I have a bearing issue, because the barrel rotates and the machine did a good Drain & Spin cycle.
I wish I hadn't tried. Not nearly worth my time. These Cabrio washers are pieces of shit. I should have just bought a new washer than go through this hell
nice job bro !! all these appliance guys frustrate me and then they rob you with their crap tools ! any decent shade tree mechanic can do this with a little help from their friends, thanks friend !!
I was an appliance repair guy for 9 years. Factory service for nearly everything less Whirlpool. We got 7 years out of our Cabrio before it started leaking. Watching these vids impressed me with one thing...weedpatch the old one and go new. Better ways to die out there. I wouldn't even think, not even a teensy bit of tackling this job unless I already had one or two under my belt. Way too many uh-ohs possible for the neophyte. Have fun. Call me chicken if you want. Hat off to the ones who go for it and succeed.
Great video, thanks. Had to cut outer race of upper bearing with a dremel tool because bearings completely blowed out. What a nightmare. But everything else went smooth as yours. Just gotta make bearing press like yours and I'll be finished and back in business.. oh.. fyi Check under dryer on the inside... surprised our house hadn't caught on fire.... that would be a good video as well.
Like the video. I have a Cabrio WTW6400SW3 that is leaking out of the bottom of the washer during fill cycles.... have already replaced suspension rods / springs.... still does UL too much. Suggestions regarding leak ? Floods the carport.
Hello, I was doing this repair today and had an issue getting the shaft back in. I assembled the lower brg and spacer as you per the instructions, but i don't think I had the brgs pulled completely together even though the nut on the tool was completely tight. I could not get the shaft to go into the lower brg. I knoched the shaft back out and saw that the spacer ring would move slightly. I reapplied the install tool and tightened it down a little further by using a hammer on the wrench. The spacer ring then looked centered and tight, but I still had a very difficult time driving the shaft all the way down into the lower brg. I placed a long 2x4 on the drive shaft and had to pound it down with a hammer. It still took a very long time and a lot of pounding to finally get the drive shaft all the way down. Have you ever had these issues and what was you solution? Thank you.
This is why I used to recommend my customers to run a clean washer cycle with affresh at least once a month otherwise build up would accumulate over time.
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This video is helpfull I found a complete kit with the 2 berins,seal shaft Grease,silicon washer nut,spacer berin punch, bering press for about 80 dollars at eBay.
i used a bottle jack instead of car jack. either works. mine is a different design, the hardware inside the drum is a little different. thx for the videos ... the tips and tricks as well!
Dude Stuff and BundysGarage: I'm at the beginning. AND a complete novice at DIY...the bearings are definitely burnt out but also water is leaking from the bottom during wash cycles. NO cracks in the stator or rotor can you all tell me what's causing the leaking water? thanks
Very informative video. I have the same Cabrio washer and have had bearing noise since it was new, around 10yrs old now. But the problem is the UL (tilt) indication is making drain and spin a pain. Like you I can't believe a $900 washer is so cheaply made!?! Several videos and forums suggest changing the suspension rods and springs? But if I have to fix it, I want it done right. You didn't show using the all-thread rod? It looked like the washers were bigger than the bearings, so I don't see how that works without breaking the plastic tub? I bought this machine b/c a comforter will fit and no tall agitator to destroy your clothes. So if I can make it new again for $100+/- it's worth it. I'm shocked at the stator motor, but I just changed the stator in my 21yr old outboard, so I guess they're pretty good? The bearings kit with the tool is about $75 now, and $25 for suspension kit, do you recommend both? Mine won't even spin empty without UL!?!
Is the top bearing supposed to be sitting flush or is it ok if there is a little space under it that we can feel when we put our fingers under the bearing?
How do you know if its the bearing that needs replaced?....Our washer has been exxxxtremely loud the last couple months ...it sounds like a air plane taking off while in the spin cycle, and now its squeaks too! As of today now its finally quit on us and giving us the uL code nonstop when tryin to finish up the spin cycle making it unusable! Any thought on what my issue might be exactly so i can fix it?!? Thanks in advance
If they sound that bad it’s your bearings. You have to replace both bearing, seal, and driveshaft. It’s not that hard. Ours the bearings went bad again so we’re just going to replace it. I hate this washer!
@@bundysgarage I know wtff.... Washer n dryers used to last for 25+ years... We havnt had this pile of shit for 5 years now and it's been nothing but issues
That's way cool. Newer now though means more sensors, electromagnetic motors, and separate motors for your drain pump and the new recirculating pump, and too, the speed/rps sensor..it's all just a bunch of waiting to go wrong parts man. If you want a new model with the reliability of the old technology, get you guys a speed queen. We don't even sell them where I work, but i've been inside them and they are made identical to the old ones. Can't beat em. Especially now that whirlpool, Amana, maytag, and others are all made by whirlpool. Whatever you do, do NOT buy a Samsung or Lg.
I agree, everything I hear about the newer washers is that they will only last about 5 years. I looked at Speed Queen washers, they look like the older tech washers however, they start at close to $1000 for a 3.2 q.ft (very small capacity) washer. No thanks.
wtfjoe I just had a service call at the laundromat on two of their speed queen top load washers. They were identical to a Whirlpool. Same control board, drain valve, and that same aggravating lid lock. They were only 18 mths old and $1400. The only difference in it and a residential one was the coin box. Nothing commercial about the speed queen top load commercial washer except the price and coin box.
Loretta Cirka wow, good info! I hadn’t seen any of those ones yet. We don’t service speed queen so the only ones I have seen are the reliable old and 2000’s models that are still built the way we all like. That’s unfortunate to hear. I really hoped they were sticking to their guns and never minding the new technology.
Great video! I have a 15 year old cabrio and we're on well water, so all of the hoses and dispensers were completely clogged. I agree with chicagomike6666 in that laundry softener took out that dispenser first. Hoping I'll be able to clean it all with vinegar and other cleaners I've found work for calcium, lime scale, and the rust from our iron rich clay. BTW, don't use CLR. It's crap. Also, you didn't need to go out and get a new socket. All it would have taken was some WD-40 and a few minutes of time. Has always worked for me. WD-40 fixes a lot of problems ... but not arthritis, so just don't. Also, had you let vinegar (cider works better than white in my observation) and let it sit for a bit, you wouldn't have had to use a car jack to get the drum out. Vinegar is awesome for all kinds of things you wouldn't think it would work on. If anything smells really, really bad, it's not mold. It's bacteria. Especially if it smells like rotting anything. Bacteria literally farts methane and other stuff, mold doesn't. NOT mold. BACTERIA. Using vinegar will also help because vinegar is antibacterial. Again, THAT"S NOT MOLD. At least not all of it. Had I my wish? I would have one of the old-fashioned washers with the pull on/push off option that allows soaking and addition of bluing or whatever. Washers these days are so complicated and you can't customize what you want to do. The Cabrio won't let me add any water for soaking without equalizing to the "optimum" water level. Next washer? Going to be an old fashioned one without all of the sensors and "smart tech" ... just on/off and simple controls. Tech isn't all it's cracked up to be.
Because I don’t trust it. Auto sealant is made to withstand freezing, extreme heat. It seals engine components that see a huge range of temperature heating and cooling cycles. That’s what it was designed to work in. A washer will never see the abuse an engine does so I figure I would be safe in using it. Plus if that’s the stuff they originally put it there, didn’t last that long to begin with. Just my 2 cents.
Before I start this long task that I probably don't have the tools for can I ask a question Could this be the cause of my cabrio's [same make and model] problem that says uneven load during only the final draining spin cycle even when empty? I doubt anyone will read this on a 4 year old video let alone answer
Thank you for this information googling my problem gave me such a long list of possible solutions it would have been more effort and money then the washing machine was worth
I have a admiral that is banging around a bunch. Replaced the suspension rods, made sure its level it still does it with just a little bit of clothes in tub. I'm about to change the drive block. I don't know what else it could be if this doesn't fix it..
Bad bearings that are loose will cause it. Even if they have not failed completely, a bearing that is going bad will cause alignment issues. If you going to replace the driveshaft (drive block) I would repalce the 2 bearings and the seal as well.
@@bundysgarage sorry for dumb question. Do all washers have bearings? I've looked on a ton of washer parts sites and can't seem to find any for my washer.
The plastic piece is a filter. From the looks of all that mold or whatever, I have to wonder if there was some sort of blockage not letting the watet out. That or the washer had not been used in some time allowing the mold to form. The mold, softener residue, skin residue, etc, may have caused some blockage I guess. The hole cleaned with the paper clip at the bearing housing was a new one on me. I found that interesting. Did the video show the rod, washers and nuts being used to press the bearings bsck in, or did you just hammer both in? I hsve thought about doing the very same thing with a threaded rid and nuts and washers.
I have this same washer. It's a piece of junk. There's no check valve on the pump so all the water that is in the line when the pump shuts off comes right back in the washer (and sits there till the next load....)
Hey Bundy! Great videos, my bottom and top bearings are definitely shot. What about the stator? Looks like there was rubbing between the stator and rotor. Will that need replacing? Thanks again!
I have this exact model and I’m not having any leaking nor does it sound like an airplane taking off, but I still get that oL code. I tried the diagnostic test and it isn’t getting past C3. It’s just giving me the oL code. I haven’t used this washer too many times for it to throw out the bearing. It’s been in storage for years. What do you think brother?
These washers hold water after time in the most outer tub. If that water was sitting there while in storage of might have destroyed the seals. Also check the springs that hold the tub.
A great reference you made for us in changing the washer bearings, shaft, seal, & etc. I have the same expensive washer, so I have some decisions to make. Damn the dirt, maybe a pressure washer would help. What is that kit number (with tools) everyone is buying for under $100. Yeah, after doing all that work, next will be changing the electronic control boards. I talk to a Appliance Repair guy who said to buy a cheap washer and replace it every 6 years. I think I'll attempt this bearing change. Thanks for the video friend, its appreciated … A thumbs up!
I double checked the part numbers for my particular Whirlpool Model with different vendors, and I got the seal, bearings w/tools for $62 plus tax on Ebay with a free two day delivery. Thanks for the response.
I am having trouble getting the shaft seated down into the upper bearing. I noticed there is a slightly raised ridge on the shaft where the shaft meets the upper bearing causing the shaft not to go down far enough into the upper bearing.
Usually when you buy the Washer Tub Seal Shaft Bearing Tool Kit, the install tools come with it, on my Whirlpool Cabrio model the kit is $99.00 on Amazon with all the tools needed to remove old and install new bearings.
It's the filter to keep debris out of your pump. The water will remain even if you do remove it, it never pumps all the water completely out. I don't like that it doesn't fully pump the water, perfect condition for mold growth.
How did you know the bearing were bad ? What happens ?Did you make a video of it not working and what it sounded like with the bad bearings to let you know it was the bearing ?
Dirt and grime from what ever we wash settles in the bottom. Terrible design flaw. You would think it would flush out with each load. The first time I started taking the washer apart my hubby freaked. The code told me it was either an item wrapped around the bar of the barrel or a sensor. It was a sock! Now we are fearless to tear it apart if theres a problem. We’ve had our cabrio for 11 years! Washer and dryer! The washer isnt doing so well (sniffle). She won’t see another spring cleaning Im afraid. Sadly, I’m reading horror stories about new washers being such poor quality it’s better to repair than to buy new. What to do? Great job on the repair!
When I was hammering the shaft from the bottom it was extremely hard. After too many whacks the shaft finally gave. Problem is that the upper bearing came apart and the outer ring is stuck in the tub. I have tried prying and banging without success. Problem is that the inner diameter of the ring is larger than the access from the bottom of the machine so there is no lip to access. Help please.
Great tutorial -- thanks for posting. I just did the suspension rod replacement on my Cabrio (my third major repair on this thing!); I suspect the bearing replacement is next. I, too, am an unhappy Cabrio owner. Speed Queen next time around?
John E I've read and heard some things about speedqyeen not being good. Atleast the newer models. Not sure if it's true I am a cabrio owner and just did the bearing kit and suspension rods. Waiting for the sealant to dry/cure then test out my work.
Speed Queen's ARE good machines although they have recently been mandated to comply with water and energy efficiency standards and guidelines. The older "timer" based models are no longer manufactured. Hopefully with the additional electronics required, they will not lose their reputation of reliability. Time will tell.
Is it normal to have a hard time putting the seal in? In the video you push it in by hand, but I've hammered away in my PVC pipe and literally stood on it and STOMPED. This seal hasn't gone into the seal even a little bit
Great tutorial. Can I bring my whirlpool cabrio to you? I replace table saw bearing without special tool. But not washer. Where do you purchase bearing kits ?
Not a cabrio.. Shittiest washer I've ever had our last set lasted 25 years with no problems... 5 years ago we thought it would be nice to update to the "latest and greatest" technology filled HE crap and sure enough nothing but problems with thr washer off and on for the last 3 years
Right on. Digging the mold out with your hand was disgusting, but hey would you even recommend making/using the bearing tool with the bolts, washers and screw thread? It seems like you ended up using a rod of some kind to love tap it in.
I found a couple of places online that rented the bearing tool for about $20. They take a $70 deposit that gets refunded when you send it back. Also I found a place that sold the bearing kit, spindle, and install tool for $130. I figure I can sell the tool on ebay for $20 when I am done.
You should cycle bleach through your tub so often without any clothes to help keep the outer tub from collecting water and having it turn nasty and moldy. Just run a regular wash cycle with a good amount of bleach - no clothes. Maybe rinse twice and it will help alot. The outer tubs will never be completely without water. And why they they outer tub get nasty on the bottom.
take the big nut off first while the tub is still hooked up much easier and get a longer hard bolt in the center to pull the tub off all the way and those six screws are soft aluminum
How does an impact remove the nut, since the socket covers the exposed part of the shaft? Why doesn't the shaft just spin with the nut when you use the impact gun? Wish that part was shown.
The impact spun the bit off too fast to allow the shaft to move. If it did move just get a Crescent wrench and hold the shaft on the other side while you try and spin the nut off. I didn’t have a helped at the time so my helper ended up being an air impact. Hope that helps.
You could have used the same wood just turn it sideways for more strength . You turned it to the 2 in side . Turn it to the 4 inch side . To keep the washer clean there is a clean cycle setting . You add what called affresh or backing soda and vinegar . Do this at least once a month . You can also add bleach that kills the mold . If you have mold that means you have never ran a bleach cleaning cycle .
YOU NEED THE TOOL, I'll explain. Ok, what this is not telling you is that the spacer above the bottom bearing needs to be aligned while you are installing the bottom bearing as well as align the spacer tube. The special tool does this. You cannot do it with the rod in the special tool. It was a royal pain to do without the tool. The tool he spent $15 creating is, guess what, $15 on ebay.
Cool. I will look for it. Do you still have your bearing removing tool? Can I borrow it? Do I need to replace shaft, spacer cylinder, lock nut? Can I bring washer to you for help?
BundysGarage you’re an absolute lifesaver, 2 times now! Sure enough, one of the connections on the bracket was loose. I can’t thank you enough for this video! There’s no way I could afford a repairman right now. My son and I did this project together.
That’s awesome! Mom and Son time!!! I’m so glad I could help you out. That’s why I made this channel to help people save money and not get ripped off my repairmen! If you can please subscribe or share this on your social media, it really helps me. Have a great Labor Day weekend!!!
Your video is awesome. The washing machine is junk. I used the video to describe disassembly and it was fantastic. I took it apart because I kept finding crud in the bottom of the machine (and on my clothes) after washing. What I found when running drain mode with the hood up, the agitator and pump screen off is that there's no check valve on the pump so all the water that is in the line when the pump shuts off comes right back in the washer (and sits there till the next load) causing all sorts of junk to grow in the bottom and the sides of the machine. Will never buy another Whirlpool. Had 4 Samsungs (had 2 sets hooked up at my old house) and not a one failed or required such maintenance.
I don't recall, they all look the same and don't have unique names like Whirlpool. All I can tell you is it was one of the front loaders with the 10 year motor warranty. It's what I'm getting again after this thing.
I watch your video so many time. But the only thing I did different then u is place the bolt back in, so the inner tube have enough height to left completely out the inner tub. What do u think removed the rubber seal on top of the bearing. Repack the bearing in place. Put bearing plastic cap back. Repack the rubber seal with marine grease... Glue the rubber seal with household mould resistant silicon. This way don't even need to bother with making $12 to make bearing compress tool. All I need to purchase is grease. Do u see the problem doing my method. Seems lot less work.
Probably could've used more grease. The kit comes with a small tube of grease and showed packing it in the groove of the seal. That's all the lubricant the seal will ever get.
I picture everyone who bought the tool, beating the the bearings in with a block of wood and a 6lb maul like the rest of us....but crying as they do it.
This is needed if your washer shows a UL error. The Maytag Bravos XL is the same washer and uses the same parts. This is one of the best edited DIY videos on the internet. No time was wasted showing the removal of each screw and the explanations are clear and concise without any excessive talk. Listing the parts and tools used is something that many DIY videos do not have. The 2x4 should be turned sideways because it won't flex as much and it will not require as much height from the jack. Never hammer a shaft directly because it could mushroom. A millimeter difference is sometimes enough to cause a fit problem. Place a piece of wood on top of the shaft or use a brass hammer or mallet.
Great job with no wasted blah, blah, or unnecessary explanation. Thx!
I applaud you for showing a little of the real world of appliance repair.
So many others on boobtube are disassembling brand new nuts ,
from clean new shafts in eleven seconds- it's sickening to me.
When I battle with these rusted deteriorating transmission shafts,
o abused washers every other day.
By the way , if you do many of these, a centermount tool exists-
without using an auto jack-
to pull the tub off the shaft.
Do you have a link to the center Mount tool?
@@bundysgarage
Take a look right now for you.🙂
I’m trying to invent a toolbox so my tools stay put, not tumble all over when I pick it up
@@bundysgarage
It’s almost impossible to take a photo from eBay and send it to you so it’s called sensible products tub puller tool
Sensible Products CTP-1 Tub Puller Tool for Whirlpool Kenmore Cabrio Washers. From McCombs supply in pa- If you can get that damn cavitator off -
this will definitely remove the tub it’s a Godsend 🙂
Just Google Sensible Product Tub Puller. Found it on EBay for $130 bucks. If I was doing these every single day I might buy one. But if I’m just doing one which is my washer, I’ll stick with the car scissor jack.
Omg Finally a video that shows my exact washer and how to replace the bearings and seal without that damn tool. You just don't know how grateful I am ! I've been fighting with this damn washer for weeks. It leaks from the bottom something fierce. Thank You!!
Seems this is such a common / repeat problem that you can only say it's designed to fail. Good job.
21 3/4” PERFECT for getting that tub out. Took longer to find the wood, cut it, and grab the car jack. Thank you!
You are welcome!
Once upon a time, Maytag stood for quality. This is trash. Very interesting video and lots of skill - thanks.
I'm still using the Maytag washer I bought in the late-70's when I got my first home. Only repair? The built-to-slip belts and little sliders for the motor. After seeing what this 'washer' looks like inside - and hearing my friends all complain about the cleaning (lack of), I'm going to keep my ancient Maytag going forever.
Car Jack with the wood!! You're a life saver!
Good video. That “mold” isn’t mold. It a mixture of the dirt from the clothes and detergent that doesn’t get rinse out of the machine. Washers hold several gallons of water at all times. This water helps keep the seals on the outer tub and the drain valve from drying out.
Pouring a gallon of white distilled vinegar in your washer once a month will help prevent this nasty stuff from building up. Just let the vinegar soak for an hour or more than run the washer on a quick wash cycle WITHOUT clothes or detergent.
You may well be right. However, that is just plain poor design.
Thanks 😊
It actually is mold, or can be. If something is wet and stays wet, it will grow mold unless you tub clean to kill it. Yes there's also dirt, grime and soap scum too. The standing water in my washer only added up to about 32oz .
The vinegar trick works well. We have the same washer for over 10 years and it never looked like this. I don't know what they are washing in it, but it looks like they are just nasty.
Run the clean cycle at least once a month with nothing but bleach.
Great video.Just finished with with tub stuck on shaft wtw8000bwo.Tore it all apart Myself after repairman wanted a Couple Hundred to do job.Didn't have to change Bearings yet,but your video very informative ,Thanks
Very intuitive video. May have just saved me a few hundred dollars. Thanks. 😙
Outstanding video! much more realistic than some others I've seen--I appreciate you sharing the info ! One comment: I have a repair friend who says the mold like sediment often comes from heavy use of fabric softener...I do share your view of Cabrio's--awful. Hate that we can't control water level or time precisely--and of course the whole complexity and quality issues you raised. Thanks!!
Never used liquid fabric softener in the washer. My wife hates the stuff and she does most of the laundry.
Using PB Blaster on that shaft will help greatly in getting out that hub. I used a small bottle jack with the 2 x 4 it work out great in getting out the drum. Before you start hook up a shop vac to the drain hose to suck out all the water that is left in the tube. Making sure that the washer is level with a slight tilt to the rear with help the washer to drain the water in the tube when the pump is running. There is a clean the washer cycle on Cabrio washer use it and the tube will stay cleaner and not smell this should be done once a month using affresh.
This job got the best of me. Top bearing didn’t want to budge. I definitely learned a lot though for next time.
THANKS FOR THIS! I've been going through those replacement plastic W10820039 Hubs every 4,5 months now...teeth of the plastic wearing down to nothing, no spin cycle "SD" error, Fearing this could be a Bearing issue now, that this needs replacement. Video helps! As for Whirlpool Cabrios, I never HATED a washing machine more than this pile of junk! Never cleaned the clothes right....also yes, this toxic like build up of God knows what in the tub. Few shirts I washed on Sunday came out stinking to high hell. (did the washer machine cleaner), thats when I noticed the SD error...yet again. Thinking now forget this job...and just get a new washer.
How did you end up getting the plastic piece from 1:20 off? When u go back to it its off.
This is the best diy video I have watched. You confirmed all my fears. Cabrio washer is junk. Thanks for all the advice
LOL, I made the same bearing press tool that I used to press bearing on my bicycle. I also used two 1/2in-to-1/4in copper pipe adapters, one to go on after the washer that goes on the bearings to center them in place.
Hey, there! Another fellow Riversider, here! I'm out here in Woodcrest wondering why my Cabrio washer stops spinning during the wash cycle and gives me an "OL" (overload) code. Decided to watch some YT fixit vids and found yours.
Well, it's 2021 and I hope you and yours have stayed healthy. Take it easy. 👍
I love other Cabrio bearing removal videos where washtub pulls right out. I’d add: (1) Plan on having to use jack to lift tub, so have wood (21 3/4”) & jack ready at beginning of process. Also, have a 13mm socket available to pull tub: rest it on top of the drive shaft…put wood on top of the socket and continue lifting tub the last 1/2”. (2) When installing bearings, the 4” spacer tube and bottom bearing washer may slide around during install, making drive shaft insertion impossible. You may have to reseat lower bearing a few times. Also, the spacer tube I received in my bearing kit may have been out of round, so I re-used original sleeve (which was actually thicker metal). (3) Not many videos discuss how long you should let kit sealant dry on seal before using washing machine. I’ve read from 6-24 hours! (I’m waiting 24 hours to be safe.) (4) I noticed cracks on the stator. That was unexpected. I patched cracks using JB Weld Epoxy. (5) Watch a video on how to replace the STATOR. It’s more detailed and will help you move faster (clips, magnets, wire removal) when you get to that step in bearing removal.
Thanks for the fantastic video. My problem with this model washer is that the washing plate won’t move. The barrel seems to move normally, but the washplate “moves” as one with the barrel. I also cannot manually move it. How do I fix this? Please let me know.
I looked underneath, but I can’t see what to do. I was thinking maybe an agitator part needed to be replaced, but the underside of this model doesn’t look like the underside of other Whirlpool washers. There doesn’t look to be easily accessible parts underneath. Please help me.
I don’t think I have a bearing issue, because the barrel rotates and the machine did a good Drain & Spin cycle.
Amazing video. Lots and lots and lots of work! I can't imagine anyone working that hard for a washer.
I wish I hadn't tried. Not nearly worth my time. These Cabrio washers are pieces of shit. I should have just bought a new washer than go through this hell
I know your pain!
nice job bro !! all these appliance guys frustrate me and then they rob you with their crap tools ! any decent shade tree mechanic can do this with a little help from their friends, thanks friend !!
I was an appliance repair guy for 9 years. Factory service for nearly everything less Whirlpool. We got 7 years out of our Cabrio before it started leaking. Watching these vids impressed me with one thing...weedpatch the old one and go new. Better ways to die out there. I wouldn't even think, not even a teensy bit of tackling this job unless I already had one or two under my belt. Way too many uh-ohs possible for the neophyte. Have fun. Call me chicken if you want. Hat off to the ones who go for it and succeed.
Great video, thanks. Had to cut outer race of upper bearing with a dremel tool because bearings completely blowed out. What a nightmare. But everything else went smooth as yours. Just gotta make bearing press like yours and I'll be finished and back in business.. oh.. fyi
Check under dryer on the inside... surprised our house hadn't caught on fire.... that would be a good video as well.
Like the video. I have a Cabrio WTW6400SW3 that is leaking out of the bottom of the washer during fill cycles.... have already replaced suspension rods / springs.... still does UL too much. Suggestions regarding leak ? Floods the carport.
Hello, I was doing this repair today and had an issue getting the shaft back in. I assembled the lower brg and spacer as you per the instructions, but i don't think I had the brgs pulled completely together even though the nut on the tool was completely tight. I could not get the shaft to go into the lower brg. I knoched the shaft back out and saw that the spacer ring would move slightly. I reapplied the install tool and tightened it down a little further by using a hammer on the wrench. The spacer ring then looked centered and tight, but I still had a very difficult time driving the shaft all the way down into the lower brg. I placed a long 2x4 on the drive shaft and had to pound it down with a hammer. It still took a very long time and a lot of pounding to finally get the drive shaft all the way down. Have you ever had these issues and what was you solution? Thank you.
This is why I used to recommend my customers to run a clean washer cycle with affresh at least once a month otherwise build up would accumulate over time.
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I will let my mom or dad know to use affresh.
This video is helpfull
I found a complete kit with the 2 berins,seal shaft Grease,silicon washer nut,spacer berin punch, bering press for about 80 dollars at eBay.
Ebay
@@ChinosLs whirlpool WTW7600XW1 BERING KIT
Look at this on eBay
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F323353275129
Look at this on eBay
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F323353275129
The link is
Look at this on eBay
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F323353275129
@@ChinosLs and got my order in two days for same price, recomend the seller
i used a bottle jack instead of car jack. either works. mine is a different design, the hardware inside the drum is a little different. thx for the videos ... the tips and tricks as well!
Cheaply made washer! Glad the video helped you out.
Do you have to do this if waters
coming out of the bottom motor rotor ???
Yes
Dude Stuff and BundysGarage: I'm at the beginning. AND a complete novice at
DIY...the bearings are definitely burnt out but also water is leaking from the bottom during wash cycles. NO cracks in the stator or rotor
can you all tell me what's causing the leaking water? thanks
Very informative video. I have the same Cabrio washer and have had bearing noise since it was new, around 10yrs old now. But the problem is the UL (tilt) indication is making drain and spin a pain. Like you I can't believe a $900 washer is so cheaply made!?! Several videos and forums suggest changing the suspension rods and springs? But if I have to fix it, I want it done right. You didn't show using the all-thread rod? It looked like the washers were bigger than the bearings, so I don't see how that works without breaking the plastic tub? I bought this machine b/c a comforter will fit and no tall agitator to destroy your clothes. So if I can make it new again for $100+/- it's worth it. I'm shocked at the stator motor, but I just changed the stator in my 21yr old outboard, so I guess they're pretty good? The bearings kit with the tool is about $75 now, and $25 for suspension kit, do you recommend both? Mine won't even spin empty without UL!?!
Did you ever find out why it kept coding uL?
What brand of washer do you suggest I purchase, given how cheaply you feel this brand is made? Thanks!
The numbers are just inconceivable.
Is the top bearing supposed to be sitting flush or is it ok if there is a little space under it that we can feel when we put our fingers under the bearing?
It's ok for there to be a little space.
How do you know if its the bearing that needs replaced?....Our washer has been exxxxtremely loud the last couple months ...it sounds like a air plane taking off while in the spin cycle, and now its squeaks too! As of today now its finally quit on us and giving us the uL code nonstop when tryin to finish up the spin cycle making it unusable! Any thought on what my issue might be exactly so i can fix it?!? Thanks in advance
If they sound that bad it’s your bearings. You have to replace both bearing, seal, and driveshaft. It’s not that hard. Ours the bearings went bad again so we’re just going to replace it. I hate this washer!
@@bundysgarage I know wtff.... Washer n dryers used to last for 25+ years... We havnt had this pile of shit for 5 years now and it's been nothing but issues
That's way cool. Newer now though means more sensors, electromagnetic motors, and separate motors for your drain pump and the new recirculating pump, and too, the speed/rps sensor..it's all just a bunch of waiting to go wrong parts man. If you want a new model with the reliability of the old technology, get you guys a speed queen. We don't even sell them where I work, but i've been inside them and they are made identical to the old ones. Can't beat em. Especially now that whirlpool, Amana, maytag, and others are all made by whirlpool. Whatever you do, do NOT buy a Samsung or Lg.
I agree, everything I hear about the newer washers is that they will only last about 5 years.
I looked at Speed Queen washers, they look like the older tech washers however, they start at close to $1000 for a 3.2 q.ft (very small capacity) washer.
No thanks.
What about the Maytag Commercial line?
Commercial line or not, they claim it all to be Maytags “commercial technology”. I’ve not seen any big differences mechanically.
wtfjoe I just had a service call at the laundromat on two of their speed queen top load washers. They were identical to a Whirlpool. Same control board, drain valve, and that same aggravating lid lock. They were only 18 mths old and $1400. The only difference in it and a residential one was the coin box. Nothing commercial about the speed queen top load commercial washer except the price and coin box.
Loretta Cirka wow, good info! I hadn’t seen any of those ones yet. We don’t service speed queen so the only ones I have seen are the reliable old and 2000’s models that are still built the way we all like. That’s unfortunate to hear. I really hoped they were sticking to their guns and never minding the new technology.
Shew! Guys got time and patients, nice work
I am trying to get this white plastic piece out. How did you get it out?
Push it out from the back of pull from the front?
Bundy excellent job, one must improvise. Well done.
do you have the actual part number for the spindle and bearings? all I can find is the spindle and tub combination. I have a cabrio wtw7340x washer.
Great job. I like the way you work!
Any reason that after installing the rotor, it seizes and will not spin? The gear shaft spins perfectly before the install.
I'm in the middle of this right now. 2x4 and floor jack out of 98 Camaro for the win
Great video! I have a 15 year old cabrio and we're on well water, so all of the hoses and dispensers were completely clogged. I agree with chicagomike6666 in that laundry softener took out that dispenser first.
Hoping I'll be able to clean it all with vinegar and other cleaners I've found work for calcium, lime scale, and the rust from our iron rich clay. BTW, don't use CLR. It's crap.
Also, you didn't need to go out and get a new socket. All it would have taken was some WD-40 and a few minutes of time. Has always worked for me. WD-40 fixes a lot of problems ... but not arthritis, so just don't.
Also, had you let vinegar (cider works better than white in my observation) and let it sit for a bit, you wouldn't have had to use a car jack to get the drum out. Vinegar is awesome for all kinds of things you wouldn't think it would work on.
If anything smells really, really bad, it's not mold. It's bacteria. Especially if it smells like rotting anything. Bacteria literally farts methane and other stuff, mold doesn't. NOT mold. BACTERIA. Using vinegar will also help because vinegar is antibacterial.
Again, THAT"S NOT MOLD. At least not all of it.
Had I my wish? I would have one of the old-fashioned washers with the pull on/push off option that allows soaking and addition of bluing or whatever. Washers these days are so complicated and you can't customize what you want to do. The Cabrio won't let me add any water for soaking without equalizing to the "optimum" water level.
Next washer? Going to be an old fashioned one without all of the sensors and "smart tech" ... just on/off and simple controls. Tech isn't all it's cracked up to be.
Why didn't you use the water proofing sealant that came with the kit?
Because I don’t trust it. Auto sealant is made to withstand freezing, extreme heat. It seals engine components that see a huge range of temperature heating and cooling cycles. That’s what it was designed to work in. A washer will never see the abuse an engine does so I figure I would be safe in using it. Plus if that’s the stuff they originally put it there, didn’t last that long to begin with. Just my 2 cents.
Thanks for the swift response, i will get some better sealant before i install mine also.
Before I start this long task that I probably don't have the tools for can I ask a question
Could this be the cause of my cabrio's [same make and model] problem that says uneven load during only the final draining spin cycle even when empty?
I doubt anyone will read this on a 4 year old video let alone answer
Bundy read it. It could be a bad spring that is causing you’re uneven load in the last cycle. Check your springs.
Thank you for this information
googling my problem gave me such a long list of possible solutions it would have been more effort and money then the washing machine was worth
I can’t find where you list the parts for your tool
I have a admiral that is banging around a bunch. Replaced the suspension rods, made sure its level it still does it with just a little bit of clothes in tub. I'm about to change the drive block. I don't know what else it could be if this doesn't fix it..
Bad bearings that are loose will cause it. Even if they have not failed completely, a bearing that is going bad will cause alignment issues. If you going to replace the driveshaft (drive block) I would repalce the 2 bearings and the seal as well.
@@bundysgarage sorry for dumb question. Do all washers have bearings? I've looked on a ton of washer parts sites and can't seem to find any for my washer.
The plastic piece is a filter. From the looks of all that mold or whatever, I have to wonder if there was some sort of blockage not letting the watet out. That or the washer had not been used in some time allowing the mold to form. The mold, softener residue, skin residue, etc, may have caused some blockage I guess.
The hole cleaned with the paper clip at the bearing housing was a new one on me. I found that interesting.
Did the video show the rod, washers and nuts being used to press the bearings bsck in, or did you just hammer both in?
I hsve thought about doing the very same thing with a threaded rid and nuts and washers.
I have this same washer. It's a piece of junk. There's no check valve on the pump so all the water that is in the line when the pump shuts off comes right back in the washer (and sits there till the next load....)
Piece of junk!
Hey Bundy! Great videos, my bottom and top bearings are definitely shot. What about the stator? Looks like there was rubbing between the stator and rotor. Will that need replacing? Thanks again!
Only if the stator and/or the rotor have cracks.
I have this exact model and I’m not having any leaking nor does it sound like an airplane taking off, but I still get that oL code. I tried the diagnostic test and it isn’t getting past C3. It’s just giving me the oL code. I haven’t used this washer too many times for it to throw out the bearing. It’s been in storage for years. What do you think brother?
These washers hold water after time in the most outer tub. If that water was sitting there while in storage of might have destroyed the seals. Also check the springs that hold the tub.
A great reference you made for us in changing the washer bearings, shaft, seal, & etc. I have the same expensive washer, so I have some decisions to make. Damn the dirt, maybe a pressure washer would help. What is that kit number (with tools) everyone is buying for under $100. Yeah, after doing all that work, next will be changing the electronic control boards. I talk to a Appliance Repair guy who said to buy a cheap washer and replace it every 6 years. I think I'll attempt this bearing change. Thanks for the video friend, its appreciated … A thumbs up!
I don’t know the kit they are buying for under $100. I found mine on Amazon. I wish I had never gotten rid of my old washer!
I double checked the part numbers for my particular Whirlpool Model with different vendors, and I got the seal, bearings w/tools for $62 plus tax on Ebay with a free two day delivery. Thanks for the response.
I am having trouble getting the shaft seated down into the upper bearing. I noticed there is a slightly raised ridge on the shaft where the shaft meets the upper bearing causing the shaft not to go down far enough into the upper bearing.
I had to have the washer in the vertical position before the shaft would go in.
Usually when you buy the Washer Tub Seal Shaft Bearing Tool Kit, the install tools come with it, on my Whirlpool Cabrio model the kit is $99.00 on Amazon with all the tools needed to remove old and install new bearings.
What is the purpose of the 5"6" tube that goes on the bottom part of the shaft?
Love this video! Only thing I would not have put that plastic cover over the drain as it appears it interferes with the tub completely draining.
It's the filter to keep debris out of your pump. The water will remain even if you do remove it, it never pumps all the water completely out. I don't like that it doesn't fully pump the water, perfect condition for mold growth.
I have same washer. It doesn't drain water, makes loud screeching noise while spinning. What causes that?
How did you know the bearing were bad ? What happens ?Did you make a video of it not working and what it sounded like with the bad bearings to let you know it was the bearing ?
Yes he did, that’s how I ultimately got to this video. I googled “brown splatter under Cabrio washing machine”
awww... Ive loved my cabrio washer/dryer! 12 years and Ive only had this problem? Im good with that.
How did you get the nut out?
Just put a bog socket on it or use a pie of big channel locks.
Dirt and grime from what ever we wash settles in the bottom. Terrible design flaw. You would think it would flush out with each load.
The first time I started taking the washer apart my hubby freaked. The code told me it was either an item wrapped around the bar of the barrel or a sensor. It was a sock! Now we are fearless to tear it apart if theres a problem. We’ve had our cabrio for 11 years! Washer and dryer! The washer isnt doing so well (sniffle). She won’t see another spring cleaning Im afraid. Sadly, I’m reading horror stories about new washers being such poor quality it’s better to repair than to buy new. What to do? Great job on the repair!
When I was hammering the shaft from the bottom it was extremely hard. After too many whacks the shaft finally gave. Problem is that the upper bearing came apart and the outer ring is stuck in the tub. I have tried prying and banging without success. Problem is that the inner diameter of the ring is larger than the access from the bottom of the machine so there is no lip to access. Help please.
Great tutorial -- thanks for posting.
I just did the suspension rod replacement on my Cabrio (my third major repair on this thing!); I suspect the bearing replacement is next.
I, too, am an unhappy Cabrio owner. Speed Queen next time around?
John E I've read and heard some things about speedqyeen not being good. Atleast the newer models. Not sure if it's true I am a cabrio owner and just did the bearing kit and suspension rods. Waiting for the sealant to dry/cure then test out my work.
Mike K check this out.
Whirlpool Cabrio Bearing Replacement WITHOUT TOOL - In Depth Videoth-cam.com/video/Hhkj8zQmL6I/w-d-xo.html
Speed Queen's ARE good machines although they have recently been mandated to comply with water and energy efficiency standards and guidelines. The older "timer" based models are no longer manufactured. Hopefully with the additional electronics required, they will not lose their reputation of reliability. Time will tell.
Just the video I needed... the only downside is the forced ads made it painful to try to see it all.
Wow! You got your time cut out for you. How long have you used this washer?
Should I clean the mold?
Yes. If you have access to a pressure washer clean it that way. Someone suggested using a self serve car wash sprayer to clean it out.
was your washer throwing a UL code
Yes. Wouldn’t finish the cycle as well.
Did it take care of the code
Yes it did. Plus the leaking seal at the bottom and the bearings that sounded like an airplane taking off.
BundysGarage Yes sir thank you buddy this helped out tremendously I got the same thing going on with mine
An error code, f50 is appeared, can you help me?
What would an appliance repair company charge to replace these bearings?
I’ve heard anywhere from $400 - $900 bucks.
They'd either charge more than the machine is worth or refuse the repair.
@@bundysgarage You're video probably has saved 100K $ plus for people.
I am harshly critical of these machines, your work is excellent.
@@ethelryan257 yep...bought a new one
What were the symptoms that caused you to replace the bearing?
Super vidéo ! Merci beaucoup!
Thanks man really simple instructions
how exactly did you use the tool you made
I used it to start the bearings. Once they were started I finished them off with the hammer.
What was the indication that the bearings were bad?
Sound like a jet plane taking off when it would spin and there was a “brown like tar” substance under the washer indicating the seals has failed.
I'm about to do this exact same job. actually looks like it's not to bad of a job.
It’s not that bad. Just take your time and let the sealant dry for 24 hours before testing.
Is it normal to have a hard time putting the seal in? In the video you push it in by hand, but I've hammered away in my PVC pipe and literally stood on it and STOMPED. This seal hasn't gone into the seal even a little bit
Was your bearing down far enough for the seal to seat?
@@christophermccrary1223 Turns out I had the seal backwards...
Great tutorial. Can I bring my whirlpool cabrio to you?
I replace table saw bearing without special tool. But not washer.
Where do you purchase bearing kits ?
You can buy the kit on Amazon. Just need the serial number for your washer.
The codes for whirlpool washer
Thanks for that share, it was very helpfull!
what washer would you recommend?
Not a cabrio.. Shittiest washer I've ever had our last set lasted 25 years with no problems... 5 years ago we thought it would be nice to update to the "latest and greatest" technology filled HE crap and sure enough nothing but problems with thr washer off and on for the last 3 years
Right on. Digging the mold out with your hand was disgusting, but hey would you even recommend making/using the bearing tool with the bolts, washers and screw thread? It seems like you ended up using a rod of some kind to love tap it in.
Great video. I hope I don’t have to contend with this. As such, are there any measures I can take to prevent this problem?
Thank you.
So if you Bundy's Grarge can see my video i do have 5he same issue as well but not just the ul code and f 51 f70 f81 werid right.
Great job 😀 for sure this video is going to help me in a couple months 👍 thank you.
It’s not that hard. Just make sure you clean all the mold up really well
BundysGarage i Will 👍
I’m having problems taking my bearing out I use the 4X4 I used a hammer still can not get it out
I found a couple of places online that rented the bearing tool for about $20. They take a $70 deposit that gets refunded when you send it back. Also I found a place that sold the bearing kit, spindle, and install tool for $130. I figure I can sell the tool on ebay for $20 when I am done.
Good pricing. How long did it take you to replace the bearing?
You should cycle bleach through your tub so often without any clothes to help keep the outer tub from collecting water and having it turn nasty and moldy. Just run a regular wash cycle with a good amount of bleach - no clothes. Maybe rinse twice and it will help alot. The outer tubs will never be completely without water. And why they they outer tub get nasty on the bottom.
take the big nut off first while the tub is still hooked up much easier and get a longer hard bolt in the center to pull the tub off all the way and those six screws are soft aluminum
How does an impact remove the nut, since the socket covers the exposed part of the shaft? Why doesn't the shaft just spin with the nut when you use the impact gun?
Wish that part was shown.
The impact spun the bit off too fast to allow the shaft to move. If it did move just get a Crescent wrench and hold the shaft on the other side while you try and spin the nut off. I didn’t have a helped at the time so my helper ended up being an air impact. Hope that helps.
Thanks a lot. I'll buy that long socket and see if it works!
You could have used the same wood just turn it sideways for more strength . You turned it to the 2 in side . Turn it to the 4 inch side . To keep the washer clean there is a clean cycle setting . You add what called affresh or backing soda and vinegar . Do this at least once a month . You can also add bleach that kills the mold . If you have mold that means you have never ran a bleach cleaning cycle .
Where can I buy the Bearing kit?..
Amazon has them for sale.
Thank you, I just ordered the package...
Give yourself plently of time to do the job.
Just finished installing, big try out tomorrow... should i do a dry test before hooking it up??
No just make sure you have given the sealant enough time to cure.
YOU NEED THE TOOL, I'll explain. Ok, what this is not telling you is that the spacer above the bottom bearing needs to be aligned while you are installing the bottom bearing as well as align the spacer tube. The special tool does this. You cannot do it with the rod in the special tool. It was a royal pain to do without the tool. The tool he spent $15 creating is, guess what, $15 on ebay.
I dont know how old this post is but the tool is $40-100 depending on the model you have.
Thanks! Where or what tool is it called . again thanks
Cool. I will look for it.
Do you still have your bearing removing tool? Can I borrow it?
Do I need to replace shaft, spacer cylinder, lock nut?
Can I bring washer to you for help?
Where are you located?
The "mold" stink is and issue with HE washers in general
I believe using two drops of ice-cold water to wash, useless detergent and a bad washplate design might have something to do with it.
Anyone have their machine throw an F 50 error after doing this repair?
The code has to do with the rotor position sensor. Tilt it back up and make sure it’s plugged in all the way and that there are no loose wires
BundysGarage you’re an absolute lifesaver, 2 times now! Sure enough, one of the connections on the bracket was loose. I can’t thank you enough for this video! There’s no way I could afford a repairman right now. My son and I did this project together.
That’s awesome! Mom and Son time!!! I’m so glad I could help you out. That’s why I made this channel to help people save money and not get ripped off my repairmen! If you can please subscribe or share this on your social media, it really helps me. Have a great Labor Day weekend!!!
What cause the bearings to fail is that the rubber seal failed.
Your video is awesome. The washing machine is junk. I used the video to describe disassembly and it was fantastic. I took it apart because I kept finding crud in the bottom of the machine (and on my clothes) after washing. What I found when running drain mode with the hood up, the agitator and pump screen off is that there's no check valve on the pump so all the water that is in the line when the pump shuts off comes right back in the washer (and sits there till the next load) causing all sorts of junk to grow in the bottom and the sides of the machine. Will never buy another Whirlpool. Had 4 Samsungs (had 2 sets hooked up at my old house) and not a one failed or required such maintenance.
Me too, never again a Whirlpool. What was the model of your Samsung?
I don't recall, they all look the same and don't have unique names like Whirlpool. All I can tell you is it was one of the front loaders with the 10 year motor warranty. It's what I'm getting again after this thing.
I watch your video so many time. But the only thing I did different then u is place the bolt back in, so the inner tube have enough height to left completely out the inner tub.
What do u think removed the rubber seal on top of the bearing. Repack the bearing in place. Put bearing plastic cap back.
Repack the rubber seal with marine grease... Glue the rubber seal with household mould resistant silicon.
This way don't even need to bother with making $12 to make bearing compress tool. All I need to purchase is grease.
Do u see the problem doing my method. Seems lot less work.
Probably could've used more grease. The kit comes with a small tube of grease and showed packing it in the groove of the seal. That's all the lubricant the seal will ever get.
I picture everyone who bought the tool, beating the the bearings in with a block of wood and a 6lb maul like the rest of us....but crying as they do it.
Most likely. You don’t even really need the tool, well it it nice to line up the sleeve between the 2 bearings.