This video is exceedingly well thought out, organized, and produced. There is not one second of waisted time. The tips given during the process are invaluable. Keep up the good work!
I appreciate you making this video. Thanks to you, I was able to repair my Kenmore washer for less than $30, rather than whatever it would have cost for a service call. You’re a hero!
U A LIFESAVER!! My shaft wouldn't come out no matter how hard I kept hitting it. I search many videos with alternative ways of getting that shaft out. I did what your demonstrated and boom goes the shaft. Thanks homie!
I just finished replacing the shaft, bearings and the plastic agitator gear assembly in my 12 yr old Kenmore Elite Oasis (large cap) machine. After giving up on finding a 7/8 20pt spline socket and a 2" socket to drive the bearings in I found the bearing press kit at a local appliance parts shop in Mobile for $20 rent. By watching your video a couple of times I decided to do the job. The kit you referenced turned out to be the exact replacement part and when I ordered it on line the "chat" option confirmed it was correct for my machine. Thank you for taking the time to create and post this outstanding video.
i think yours is actually the best whirlpool HE top loader tub removal video on you tube. you can tell by all the dirty parts you are doing a real repair on a machine that is actually being used unlike all the other how to videos where the machines and parts being pulling look new. the only mistake i think you made was showing how you use a torch the way you do. I can see some newbie trying to do the same thing only their pretty hot is going to be a lot hotter then your pretty hot and things are going to get melted. anyway thanks for the video and the parts lead, now if i could only get the tub out, it's stuck with about a 1/4" left to go....
I would use a heat gun or an IR heat lamp instead of a flame (torch). Also, let the new bearings sit in the freezer before installation to shrink them as much as possible.
Great job !! Finally I see in several video replacing bearings, some one that cleans the bottom outer and the filter, before put back on the drum. 90% of the "technician" although he is recording a video, just dont clean a thing.
Great video. I'll add this. If you had a small leak the inside tub bearing will refuse to come out. It will just about weld itself in there. I shattered the bearings insides out from beating on it. I had to get my dremel tool to cut the race out (not too hard but a pain). Make darn sure the new bearings are seated in all the way. Take pictures of the bearings and how deep they are before you remove them. So you will know how deep to go. Great tutorial!
Hello again I have 2 bearings, one smaller one bigger. Which bearing do I use for the top? I placed the larger bearing on the top opening but it's too big and it doesn't fit in the lower top opening. Do you think I need to heat the inside of the opening for the bearing to drop down in position? I see in your video there's extra space from the top edge of the bearing and the edge of the opening. I appreciate your help. Hopefully I made enough sense for your to understand. Thanks
@@CreativeMechanic Yeah... Now I got my washer broken down waiting for me to complete the repair. :-( smh. But the larger bearing is not seated low enough in the top opening. The smaller bearing fits perfectly on the top but I need 2 of the smaller size so I can use the smaller one for the bottom.
Thumbs up on your video! I bought a high-end Kenmore in 2021 since my last one lasted me 15+ years. However, they're putting "transmissions" in these things that are attached to the 20 dollar bearing you replaced. So when the bearing goes out, it drains through the transmission and spews oil and water underneath the washer. I fixed a few things that surprisingly broke on it before the transmission broke. I must say, I am amazed at all the parts that are available for Kenmore, Whirlpool , and Maytag on Amazon for such new washers! They must be breaking all the time now. I bought a lightly used GE washer for 200 bucks on Craigs list. These new washers remind me of how the new Toyotas, and other manufacturers, are starting to really lose their quality and reliability.
Great video. I've run into a problem that no one else seems to have had. I'd appreciate some advice. I installed the shaft nut, stator back plate, and stator. I checked the drive shaft by turning it with my hand. It turned freely. I installed the rotor and then checked the drive shaft again turning it by hand. The rotor turns part of a revolution freely than exhibits a firm resistance. It still turns but much harder. It frees up again as I continue turning it by hand, then resistance again. When I remove the rotor, the shaft turns freely. Put the rotor back on, free movement then resistance. Any ideas what could be causing the rotor to bind against the stator? I would really appreciate some help. Thanks so much.
I have run into the same thing. I think the problem goes back to the bearing and shaft . Before putting the stator on i tested the shaft movement. I think it should have rotated freely without binding but it did not. I disassembled the shaft from the drum and knocked the bearings again for good measure thinking they were not seated all the way in. Still a little binding after the shaft was inserted. i think the races are warped or the bearing(s) did not seat properly.
I ended up putting 21 inch 2x4 under the top lip of the drum and then used a car jack to press against the post at the bottom and the 2x4 at the top. Easy peasy. There are a few videos for a visual
Suggestion - put one wrap of painter's (blue) tape over that shaft before sliding the seal down. Helps keep the splines from tearing at the seal. tape comes off easy peasy. Adhesive over the seal? Well, if the seal is working properly, none should be needed. Just don't ask ME to be the next one to replace it! :) Good vid.
since the oasis, bravo, and Cabrio are all made by whirlpool and basically the same machine just with different ergonomic layouts they all should use the same tub bearings which are 6006-2RS Sealed Ball Bearing measuring 30x55x13mm but even if your drive shaft is reusable and you replace the bearings, if you don't replace the seal you are wasting your time and whirlpool seams to not be letting the seals get out by themselves, you have to buy the bearing kit (W10435302) to get the seal....
I just finished and found this video very helpful. I didn't buy the tool. I also didn't have the huge socket. I used the old bearings per your instructions. Thanks a bunch.
I would like to know the signs of a bearing going bad. My washer is jiggling badly on spin cycles and I have leveled it. Short of buying new front feet for it I am not certain what else to do. It has auto levelers on the back. Kenmore machine.
Ellen, my reply maybe too late for you. But if not I can tell you my Bravos was doing same thing, where the tub was banging the four walls of the washer. I was told to replace the four spring hangers. I did that with after market hangers without relief. Only OEM hangers resolved the problem.
Thanks for posting the video. one question though. I noticed you put the washer on the bottom of the lower bearing between it and the nut. most of the other videos show putting it above The lower bearing. The way you did it seems more logical to me but I was wondering if you had any insight on that? Thanks!
I didn’t follow the manufacturer drawing when I did this, but to me.... the spacer tube between the bearings does that job fine. Putting an extra washer on the top side seemed illogical. I haven’t had any problems with it, just don’t go crazy tightening it
Hi, I just replaced the shaft and bearings on a Kenmore Elite Oasis HE Washer (Model 11027062604) and noticed that there is some resistance between the stator / stator cover when I rotate the stator cover (plastic cover with magnets around it). There is no resistance when the stator is not attached to shaft. There is no actual rubbing noise and the resistance is more pronounced as I start rotating faster - it almost feels like a magnetic resistance when rotated over a certain speed (washer is not plugged in). Is this normal? Did anyone else experience similar magnetic resistance when you attached and rotated the motor cover? Thanks.
The cover has magnets in it. The motor has coils of wire that polarize when current is applied, that interacts with the magnets on the cover allowing the machine to control speed and direction of the drum. So yes, it’s normal
@@CreativeMechanic I see it’s just a little distracting for me during your excellent video - when there is talking . I couldn’t drum my way out of a paper bag. I play guitar- but here’s one of my favorite Drummers in case you haven’t heard of him : th-cam.com/video/QvYLHG86Iwo/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the visual and the talk through. You are so detailed and it was a lot of help. I do want to ask, did you wipe off any of that extra adhesive off before you put the tub back in, or let it dry, or anything?
@@CreativeMechanic mine is sibling horribly and then stops on spin cycle. Checked hub, stator, replaced rps, stabilizer rods, lubed shaft. Still wobble violently. Bearing doesn't have any slop.
Hey man, Nice Job!! I'm currently awaiting the parts for this exact task, and have been scouring the net for info about it. I have seen more vid's on it than a seasoned repair tech I'm guessing! Nobody is left out there in TH-cam Land that is on what I like to call "The Standard Guy Level" and explain things accordingly.. Tho You do have some above level tools, like "Huge" sockets and such. The process is sound and understandable. Most of us should be able to improvise to get it done.. So Thanks for the good advice and info, and "On the Level" approch to deliver.. P.S.... German Torque .. HA .. Lovein It!!! GOODENTITE!!!
Only the axle bearing kit is $ 160.00 taxes in. canadien!! Where is your profite !! Or you have the jobber kit !! Or original at a really good price !! 🤔
You didn’t do the job properly I start you didn’t clean the two bowls out the centre hole of the plastic bowl you didn’t clean that nor the covering not a good job
This video is exceedingly well thought out, organized, and produced. There is not one second of waisted time. The tips given during the process are invaluable. Keep up the good work!
Calm down teacher
I appreciate you making this video. Thanks to you, I was able to repair my Kenmore washer for less than $30, rather than whatever it would have cost for a service call. You’re a hero!
U A LIFESAVER!! My shaft wouldn't come out no matter how hard I kept hitting it. I search many videos with alternative ways of getting that shaft out. I did what your demonstrated and boom goes the shaft. Thanks homie!
I just finished replacing the shaft, bearings and the plastic agitator gear assembly in my 12 yr old Kenmore Elite Oasis (large cap) machine. After giving up on finding a 7/8 20pt spline socket and a 2" socket to drive the bearings in I found the bearing press kit at a local appliance parts shop in Mobile for $20 rent. By watching your video a couple of times I decided to do the job. The kit you referenced turned out to be the exact replacement part and when I ordered it on line the "chat" option confirmed it was correct for my machine. Thank you for taking the time to create and post this outstanding video.
Thank you!!!!! Keep on fixing!!!!!!
i think yours is actually the best whirlpool HE top loader tub removal video on you tube. you can tell by all the dirty parts you are doing a real repair on a machine that is actually being used unlike all the other how to videos where the machines and parts being pulling look new. the only mistake i think you made was showing how you use a torch the way you do. I can see some newbie trying to do the same thing only their pretty hot is going to be a lot hotter then your pretty hot and things are going to get melted. anyway thanks for the video and the parts lead, now if i could only get the tub out, it's stuck with about a 1/4" left to go....
I would use a heat gun or an IR heat lamp instead of a flame (torch). Also, let the new bearings sit in the freezer before installation to shrink them as much as possible.
Great job !! Finally I see in several video replacing bearings, some one that cleans the bottom outer and the filter, before put back on the drum. 90% of the "technician" although he is recording a video, just dont clean a thing.
This is an excellent informative instructional video. Thanks
Great video.
I'll add this. If you had a small leak the inside tub bearing will refuse to come out. It will just about weld itself in there. I shattered the bearings insides out from beating on it. I had to get my dremel tool to cut the race out (not too hard but a pain).
Make darn sure the new bearings are seated in all the way. Take pictures of the bearings and how deep they are before you remove them. So you will know how deep to go.
Great tutorial!
😁😆😁
How come you put the spacer on before the nut and not between the tube and the bearing?
U r giving the best inside advice. Nice work
Hello again
I have 2 bearings, one smaller one bigger. Which bearing do I use for the top?
I placed the larger bearing on the top opening but it's too big and it doesn't fit in the lower top opening.
Do you think I need to heat the inside of the opening for the bearing to drop down in position?
I see in your video there's extra space from the top edge of the bearing and the edge of the opening.
I appreciate your help. Hopefully I made enough sense for your to understand.
Thanks
Are your sure you have the correct parts? Is your model the same as the one in my video?
@@CreativeMechanic That's a good question. I thinking that now. The top bearing is the larger bearing, right?
I believe so yes
@@CreativeMechanic Yeah... Now I got my washer broken down waiting for me to complete the repair. :-( smh. But the larger bearing is not seated low enough in the top opening. The smaller bearing fits perfectly on the top but I need 2 of the smaller size so I can use the smaller one for the bottom.
Thumbs up on your video! I bought a high-end Kenmore in 2021 since my last one lasted me 15+ years. However, they're putting "transmissions" in these things that are attached to the 20 dollar bearing you replaced. So when the bearing goes out, it drains through the transmission and spews oil and water underneath the washer. I fixed a few things that surprisingly broke on it before the transmission broke. I must say, I am amazed at all the parts that are available for Kenmore, Whirlpool , and Maytag on Amazon for such new washers! They must be breaking all the time now. I bought a lightly used GE washer for 200 bucks on Craigs list. These new washers remind me of how the new Toyotas, and other manufacturers, are starting to really lose their quality and reliability.
Great video. I've run into a problem that no one else seems to have had. I'd appreciate some advice. I installed the shaft nut, stator back plate, and stator. I checked the drive shaft by turning it with my hand. It turned freely. I installed the rotor and then checked the drive shaft again turning it by hand. The rotor turns part of a revolution freely than exhibits a firm resistance. It still turns but much harder. It frees up again as I continue turning it by hand, then resistance again. When I remove the rotor, the shaft turns freely. Put the rotor back on, free movement then resistance. Any ideas what could be causing the rotor to bind against the stator? I would really appreciate some help. Thanks so much.
I have run into the same thing. I think the problem goes back to the bearing and shaft . Before putting the stator on i tested the shaft movement. I think it should have rotated freely without binding but it did not. I disassembled the shaft from the drum and knocked the bearings again for good measure thinking they were not seated all the way in. Still a little binding after the shaft was inserted. i think the races are warped or the bearing(s) did not seat properly.
the metal spacer tube can mess you up.
You are a great teacher. Excellent tips
Finally a great video showing everything needed!!! Thanks bud!!! Your a swell dude!
you should be a comedian as well as a repair guy. you are funny, the thumbs up had me laughing.
Great tips! You got me through the project and the washer is like the day I bought it!
What if the drum is stuck? Any tips on getting it out?
Pull harder
I ended up putting 21 inch 2x4 under the top lip of the drum and then used a car jack to press against the post at the bottom and the 2x4 at the top. Easy peasy. There are a few videos for a visual
Hands down the best video i found to help me fix my whirlpool cabrio washer!!!! Thanks man.
Suggestion - put one wrap of painter's (blue) tape over that shaft before sliding the seal down. Helps keep the splines from tearing at the seal. tape comes off easy peasy.
Adhesive over the seal? Well, if the seal is working properly, none should be needed. Just don't ask ME to be the next one to replace it! :)
Good vid.
Hello I just did this repair on my Kemore Elite Oasis. Now during spin cycle it start making alot of noise and I get a UL code then machine stop.
Great tips man, Thanks from North of the border!
So does this work for all washers with brushless dc motors (Fisher & Paykel, Samsung, LG etc)?
This washer is brushles.........
Can anyone please let me know the exact size of the bearings used for the Whirlpool Cabrio? Would be really helpful. Thanks
since the oasis, bravo, and Cabrio are all made by whirlpool and basically the same machine just with different ergonomic layouts they all should use the same tub bearings which are 6006-2RS Sealed Ball Bearing measuring 30x55x13mm
but even if your drive shaft is reusable and you replace the bearings, if you don't replace the seal you are wasting your time and whirlpool seams to not be letting the seals get out by themselves, you have to buy the bearing kit (W10435302) to get the seal....
I just finished and found this video very helpful. I didn't buy the tool. I also didn't have the huge socket. I used the old bearings per your instructions. Thanks a bunch.
glad it worked!!
the drum on my Kenmore is not coming out can you tell me what would be the problem
Do you not have to recalibrate the washer?
I just put it on spin for a few minutes
I would like to know the signs of a bearing going bad. My washer is jiggling badly on spin cycles and I have leveled it. Short of buying new front feet for it I am not certain what else to do. It has auto levelers on the back. Kenmore machine.
Ellen Robison Does your washer sound like a 747 taking off during the spin cycle?
Ellen, my reply maybe too late for you. But if not I can tell you my Bravos was doing same thing, where the tub was banging the four walls of the washer. I was told to replace the four spring hangers. I did that with after market hangers without relief. Only OEM hangers resolved the problem.
The gator grip was the perfect tool for a nut that you can't see, which is also not stuck.
excellent video..save money..thank you brother👊 people like you make AMERICA much bigger and blessed...😎
You've got some nice tools..I'd like to borrow that spine wrench ?..I'll bring it back buddy~
Thank you for this video, it helped me change out the bearings on my Bravos! It is such a relief not to have a jet turbine going on in the house!
Thanks for posting the video. one question though. I noticed you put the washer on the bottom of the lower bearing between it and the nut. most of the other videos show putting it above The lower bearing. The way you did it seems more logical to me but I was wondering if you had any insight on that? Thanks!
I didn’t follow the manufacturer drawing when I did this, but to me.... the spacer tube between the bearings does that job fine. Putting an extra washer on the top side seemed illogical. I haven’t had any problems with it, just don’t go crazy tightening it
Creative Mechanic thanks for responding! I appreciate it. I’m going to try it that way.
Hi, I just replaced the shaft and bearings on a Kenmore Elite Oasis HE Washer (Model 11027062604) and noticed that there is some resistance between the stator / stator cover when I rotate the stator cover (plastic cover with magnets around it). There is no resistance when the stator is not attached to shaft. There is no actual rubbing noise and the resistance is more pronounced as I start rotating faster - it almost feels like a magnetic resistance when rotated over a certain speed (washer is not plugged in). Is this normal? Did anyone else experience similar magnetic resistance when you attached and rotated the motor cover? Thanks.
The cover has magnets in it. The motor has coils of wire that polarize when current is applied, that interacts with the magnets on the cover allowing the machine to control speed and direction of the drum. So yes, it’s normal
@@CreativeMechanic Thanks for your help, the sporadic electromagnetic resistance was indeed normal and everything worked great after reassembling.
Where did you find that deal!
Holly, this is out of my league
You deserve a like.
Nice work, not an easy job.
For about $10 you can get a kit to replace the coupling and plastic spline you removed after you took out the tub. Get it done at the same time.
GREAT JOB DUDE , highly recommend you , fantastic!
Hi, nice video. What is the maker name and model of that little torch? Thanks
Great overview video. You saved me hundreds of dollars! Thank you!🙌
Great video. Why the drum track? This isn't the fakenews.
Because I play the drums and I put it in my videos
@@CreativeMechanic
I see it’s just a little distracting for me during your excellent video -
when there is talking .
I couldn’t drum my way out of a paper bag.
I play guitar- but here’s one of my favorite Drummers in case you haven’t heard of him : th-cam.com/video/QvYLHG86Iwo/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the visual and the talk through. You are so detailed and it was a lot of help. I do want to ask, did you wipe off any of that extra adhesive off before you put the tub back in, or let it dry, or anything?
This video makes look harder than what actually gets
Was your washer wobbling and stopping with uneven code?
No, just sounded like a jet engine taking off
@@CreativeMechanic mine is sibling horribly and then stops on spin cycle. Checked hub, stator, replaced rps, stabilizer rods, lubed shaft. Still wobble violently. Bearing doesn't have any slop.
Jerry C did you figure it out?
Excellent video. You provided a ton of value. Thank you.
Yeah, I don’t think I’ll be attempting this repair. A bit beyond my skill level and patience.
That’s what I said. I’m just gonna buy a new one. This is where my tittle of Jack Of All Trades stops.
@ update: I actually did! Replaced the entire drive. Quite proud of myself.
Thanks big help. Just finished
Hey man, Nice Job!! I'm currently awaiting the parts for this exact task, and have been scouring the net for info about it. I have seen more vid's on it than a seasoned repair tech I'm guessing! Nobody is left out there in TH-cam Land that is on what I like to call "The Standard Guy Level" and explain things accordingly.. Tho You do have some above level tools, like "Huge" sockets and such. The process is sound and understandable. Most of us should be able to improvise to get it done.. So Thanks for the good advice and info, and "On the Level" approch to deliver.. P.S.... German Torque .. HA .. Lovein It!!! GOODENTITE!!!
My cabrio is 2 years old and bearings are already going, so.....
Good Video ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Do yourself a favor and throw the new bearings and shaft in the freezer for a few hours ahead of time so they slip right into place.
amazon has the tool and bearing kit for $ 75
Good video,but you only said it needed the bearing but did not show or say why.What was the symptom.?Noise ?Leaking?
Both, it leaked and made noise
Great video ! Thank you!
Good video. Thanks :)
Rad extension
400$ to replace bearings ? Nah , bring them to me I will do it for $150-$180 top load washers whirpool. Kenmore , Maytag .
Only the axle bearing kit is $ 160.00 taxes in. canadien!! Where is your profite !! Or you have the jobber kit !! Or original at a really good price !! 🤔
Guy wants 50 it doesn't look that bad
The gods won’t hear you but the Fallon angels whom we call demons will. I wouldn’t mess with them they only want to highjack your life!
jeezus whooo fine mammajamma
You didn’t do the job properly I start you didn’t clean the two bowls out the centre hole of the plastic bowl you didn’t clean that nor the covering not a good job
Cleaning is for girls
Do not do what this is doing . Tottaly wrong to use torch . Please buy bearing installer tool . This is handy man not atechnician
I thought you were going to talk about the washer positioned at the wrong place !!??🤭🤔 the washer goes between the spacer and the lower bearing !!
Y’all be jealous cuz it works
@@CreativeMechanic sorry!! But not for long !!
can you come fix mine for me lol, but naw this video was awesome and you naw washer for free.