Modular direct drive kit for Ender 3, 5 and CR-10 for under $40
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ม.ค. 2020
- The budget direct drive kit for Ender 3, Ender 5 and CR-10 has been updated and is now modular.This means you can configure it using all factory parts, as shown in this video, or easily adapt other hardware such as a, EZR extruder, Bondtech and E3D V6 combo.
This kit takes around 30 - 60 minutes to fit and requires no firmware changes or significant calibration. There are printed equivalents but this is stronger and more attractive. If you are looking to improve your performance on retraction and flexibles, this affordable mod might be for you.
MDD kit for Ender 3, Ender 5 and CR-10: printermods.com/products/dire...
Purchase from Amazon: amzn.to/2R1GRiM
Hero Me remix to suit this kit (allows cooling fan upgrade, BLtouch and/or EZABL): www.thingiverse.com/thing:335...
My previous video on version 1 of the DD kit: • Simple direct drive En...
My previous video on adapting the EZR extruder: • Ender 3 upgrades: EZR ...
EZR extruder adaptor piece: www.thingiverse.com/thing:368...
Ender 3 Hemera install: • Hemera to Ender 3 - Co...
e-steps calibration: • How to tune your slice...
Chainmail by itain: www.thingiverse.com/thing:427235
Lion HD (no supports required) by Gioffro: www.thingiverse.com/thing:124...
Buy quality and affordable filament from X3D. Buy 3, get 1 free and a free sample pack with every order: www.x3d.com.au
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A anticipatory notes: previously a lot of people commented that the z axis stepper is working a lot harder with this kit. The z axis was already lifting the extruder and x axis components, so no change there. The x axis now has to move the extruder stepper, which is the primary difference. I've had V1 of this kit on my Ender 3 for over a year, and never had any issues or had to increase the VREF for the x axis.
Could you teach me how to calibrate hermera Vref? I'm using SKR mini E3 v1.2 board. I follow all your video guides to mod my ender 3, and it's was all successful. From main board, bl touch and hermera. But only Vref can't figure it out. Tks man
I know its not relevant to the video but how did you connect the hotend and part cooling fan for the ender 3 on the skr v1.3 (one of the fans has no connector and is only bare wires
Thank you
Does tmc 2209(main board) and tmc 2208(stepper drivers) works with ender-5? not ender-5 plus...
and can you advice me some kits keeps silence making in ender-5?
Sorry for my bad english skills..
Teaching Tech mark from x3d said you might have a suggestion about the Ender 3 not feeding the filament. As I am new to 3d printing and the sample that came with the Ender 3 worked fine but the x3d filament just continues to fail every print I start. If you can help that would be great
@@BenCos2018 The bare wire fan (part cooling fan) can be plugged into the extra extruder terminal on the skr which gives some extra control through marlin (auto turn off below 50 degrees) Alternatively, you can also stuff it in the board main power terminal along with the wires from the PSU. This is the recommended method by TH3D and will leave your fan in an always on state.
I just got this kit for my Ender 3 last week and haven’t installed it yet. Good thing I waited.
I just got this the other day after watching your v1 vid. Was pretty surprised to see the 1.2 shipped off of your ebay link.
Highly recommend
Thanks (again!) for another well detailed video. This is probably the easiest and neatest solution for converting to direct drive I've seen so far, to the point where I'm considering finally taking the plunge myself.
I’ve had version 1 since your original review on two of my Enders and absolutely love them. I was going to replace them with the Hemera, but changed my mind after your video and a few others. Excellent cheap upgrade! Great video as always!!
I always follow your videos, since I bought my ender 3 and your tips have always helped me a lot, including the videos about firmware update. opening the video today and seeing the shirt with the name of ayrton was sensational.
I am seriously thinking about putting my ender 3 with the direct driver, but still studying the options.
Nice. I just got my Ender 5, and I was think about upgrading to Direct Drive on the extruder. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for the tutorial, this really helped out. Can't wait to run a test print
Huge fan from Brazil, and when I saw your shirt just had to comment! Massive thumbs up mate!
I ordered this kit today for printing TPU. Can't wait to get it and install it.
Thank you for an excellent video, we are about to upgrade our trusty Ender 3Pro to direct drive, and an all metal hotend. really appreciate the anticipatory note about weighting the Z axis motor. We'll try running without an extra Z rod etc as you have noted.
Always appreciate your research and ideas!
Bruh epic, I just got a direct drive kit today and I just got home so I'm gonna use this
what is your experience ?
Looking forward to the linear rail kit reviews for the ender 3 !!!
If that is not my hero stamped on your shirt! I came here for the video but this detail alone already makes it for me haha
Great walkthrough 👍
Thanks for sharing 👍😀
Definite thumbs up for this one!
Very good, thanks man! Congratulation for video. Senna Forever!
Thank you for this!
Great videos!! But I've noticed no one has done a good videos on a 3d printed direct drive option
VERY nice! It whould even better with some ringing tests ;)
Just a heads up if you're using the silver Creality metal extruder instead of the stock plastic or red metal extruder. The silver Creality extruder has a different shape where the ptfe tube coupling attaches. It's square on the top instead of triangular like the other two extruders. Because of this the included spacer/adapter that you attach the extruder assembly to the plate with will not fit and needs to be modified.
Thank you, i had no idea about this upgrade let along being this affordable, i just ordered mine thru their website, too bad amazon is out of stock, home you get your affiliate through their website somehow
I found a direct drive kit on amazon for 13 bucks that mounts the extruder and motor sideways. Only main difference is it didnt require any printed parts and its not modular but still has a place for the cr touch. This is an impressive piece of kit for sure..especially the modularity!
I love the video. I've based a lot of my setup for my Ender 3 pro watching you videos. I just got the BMG extruder and very interested in the Modular Direct Drive set up... unfortunately I can't find a mount that will fit on my 3D fused linear rail kit. regardless, it's a great video with great instructions.
Great Video Michael,Thank You
I had a double gear drive kit on my servo motor. It took some modification to fit, but did so successfully. Need a drill bit and some extra screws.
Great video as always. Looks like a very interesting product, might get one to try on the #Borg. Looking forward to the linear rail video.
*Thank you, i hope see next video with linear rails and how this mod improve the print*
I remember plenty of people doing this switch with ender 3 and prusa and no significant change could be noted.
I also would like to see a linear rail video. I'm thinking of using the MDD to mount my hotend/fans to the rail carriage.
Will be testing Ender 3 and Ender 5 kits in the same video.
@@TeachingTech very good!!
@@TeachingTech Linear rails for 10S Pro Please?
Nice shirt, Mclaren WC. I'll take one in a large. Nice video, I'm learning a lot.
I've got the original DD kit from them, it's one of the best more I've made to my Ended 3.
Why?
I installed one of these on my Ender 3 Pro and my CR-10S this week. What an amazing difference. The only issue I ran into was my CR-10s has a micro swiss hot end and getting the tube length correct was a bit of a challenge. Otherwise this was a breeze to install.
I'm considering this with the stock hot end and extruder. Would have been nice if you had a couple of before and after mod print comparisons.
looking forward to the CR10S Pro
Thanks for the video. Just warning off those who want Direct with BMG and V6. My plan was this plate and wiring +BMG +V6... I was able only to use the wiring. Not a knock on them: it is intended to make the stock (heavy) motor and heatsink/nozzle DD, not a V6. The Humera is probably better than what I ended up making, and losing some build room in the Y direction. FWIW!
Love the shirt 😍
Installed this on my Ender 3 Pro. Much better than the typical Bowden-style, now extruder skipping isn't really an issue I have to worry about. You won't be able to use most Satsana ducts though.
When I get my replacement fan (I broke some of its blades off by accident) for the hotend I will print the Bullseye fan duct and test it on my setup.
Thanks for this
Very interesting Michael. I just may end up doing this mod. For $35 it's a real deal. I've resisted screwing around with my Ender 3 because it's such a workhorse. In fact a couple of days ago I gave it a print that was too tall. The object was 257 mm in the Z axis. I had changed the Z max setting in Cura in the hope that it would still be able to print. I usually use my Delta for the tall stuff but I was rebuilding it's hot end assembly and so I ran the print up on the E3. That's when I realized that the actual real Z height on the E3 is approx 185mm unless you are happy with the bowden and the power cables dragging on the crossbar. I actually disassembled the top of the printer while the print was running and managed to get the print finished. This mod will increase the Z height of the E3 to 255mm because the whole Direct Drive assembly is in front of the crossbar. This mod actually makes the Ender 3 a bigger printer.
Great videos please keep posting these. I save just about everyone for quick reference. I have an ender 3 pro, and I am wondering if have the dual Z axis would help with the ringing when using a direct drive exturder, or if that is at all worth having?
Got the kit: superb quality!
It fits (near) perfectly in the Anycubic Mega X.
Same 20x20 rail on the X-axis, so why not?
Steps:
1) tiny block for the X-limit switch
2) re-leveled the print bed
2) Use belt tensioning device hidden in the x-axis rail to set belt.
The stepper-mounting plate can pivot on one mounting bolt. This pivot action slacks the belt. Set the proper belt length, pivot the mounting-plate, belt draws taught.
Robert is your parents sibling.
The V1.3 plate with fans and ducts is about 40% the weight of a fully rigged Anycubic carriage/housing/ducts with fans! Steel is heavy.
Didn't weight them with hot-ends installed.
Next stop, take back the weight savings with a direct drive!
This is fun! Lego's for big kids with credit cards!
One bit from here, another from over there...
I have this and highly recommend it
Why?
Got it, put it on. printer is working better than ever. Because of you I have
1. Extended my Ender 3 to 300x300x400
2. Added a BL touch
3. Switched stock board to Skr mini v2
4. All metal swiss hotend
5. Ac heated bed with ssr relay
and a lot more that I've learned in only 3 months
I've done 3d modeling for a long time. Now I get to make actual physical things with my Ender 3 pro XL
Technology these days absolutely blows me away...now that it's becoming more affordable.
Love the vids and THANKS
Oh...Btw...If anyone doesn't have the Hero me and just a BL Touch that doesn't fit, you can measure and grind or file off that little upper right-hand corner on the stock metal bracket. I got mine to fit ( I couldn't print anything when I found out it didn't fit).
I like your wire management. What diameter spiral wrap are you using?
Got my kit today for the Ender 3 still gotta wait for the Mini E3 board to arrive, since i killed the printer after I order the stuff =\
I squished the head's temp sensor wire, got a spark and it fried something in the stock board, getting a constant 150+ temp reading on both :p
Hi Michael, great video and some really nice ideas!
Some questions I had though for the MDD + EZR combo -
1. When connecting the EZR to the stepper motor, did you use the rectangular spacer between the motor and EZR? From the brief moments it's visible in the video it seems like you decided not to use it, I wondered what were your reasons.
2. Cable management wise, I see you've decided to have the stepper motor with the connector facing down (as opposed to facing left), and routing all cables from the back without tying to the stepper motor with the MDD anchor, again, wondering as to why :)
Thanks!
They have released one of these for the CR 10 V2. I would love to see a video on the set up for it. Especially with the filament runout sensor since none of their instructions seem to mention it.
Thank you for covering this! I already learn so much from your channel, I hate to ask for more BUT... I was wondering if you could provide a weight comparison to some printable direct drive options. I really like the look of this kit, especially since it includes a wiring harness extension, but if I'm not saving some weight on my hot end then it might be worth it to just print an adapter.
These mods are very good and helpful.
Would you consider reviewing the MONOPRICE MP10.
Or even doing a BIGTREETECH upgrade to the Tenlog TLD3 Pro DUALE IDEX.
Many have this printer with failing boards. It prints well.
But it has issues.
Creality also has an affordable modular direct drive extruder. I'm trying it out now. It is the first mod on my new E3V2 printer, and the printer has not been used yet. This is my second E3V2 printer. My older printer still has the Bowden setup. I am not impressed with the Bowden tube extruder system.
Creality's direct drive comes with all the necessary installation hardware parts. The package simply includes a photo identifying the ports on the v4.2.2 motherboard, and no instructions. However, installation is rather straightforward, and could be done in about an hour. After removing the extruder stepper motor, stock Bowden tube, and hot end from the X-axis gantry, I continued to disconnect the prior from the motherboard. Then, I installed the direct drive connections to the motherboard. The connections are identical to the stock equipment. Once finished, I only had to readjust the E-steps which were only slightly off. I need to tweak the printer a bit, i.e. bed-levelling, but everything is working fine.
I did not weigh the unit, but I found it light. The only thing I don't like about this direct drive is that the extruder assembly is made of plastic just like the stock extruder. I'd replaced the plastic one for an aluminum one on my older printer after the lever cracked. The lever is notorious for doing this. The plastic extruder on the direct drive is installed behind the stepper motor, and should be replaceable with an aluminum one.
Need this for my Ender 3 Neo
I really enjoy your content. I've been able to learn so much from you with my recent entry into the hobby. I do have a question regarding this specific setup as I purchased the MDD kit a few weeks ago awaiting for it to arrive. Is there a HERO Remix that allows for Noctua fans instead of the blower style fans. I am aiming for noise reduction as much as possible.
My Hero remix allows for a Noctua on the heatsink. It directs the air very tightly around it and I've had zero heat creep/clogs since fitting it. I'm not aware of any that take a fan rather than a blower, but I imagine the performance would be a fair bit lower. The Alfawise U30 is similar and uses a fan instead of blower for part cooling.
Teaching Tech thank you. I couldn’t see if you had a Noctua for parts cooling as well on the remix
Can't wait for linear rails. Great video as always Michael but what about ringing? Is it noticeable on others prints? One you showed in video doesn’t have them but I wouldn’t consider it as a murderous test.
The V1 of this kit has been on my main Ender 3 for a long time now. Any Ender 3 video of mine in the last year has all the printing tests you could desire.
Excellent tutorial! I like the shirt! 🇧🇷 motorsport idol
honestly on a prusa there's almost no reason to stay with bowden. I feel like bowden is more for corexy/ultimaker/deltas etc
I bought a fake titan extruder and addet it to my e3dv6 hotend. there are some files on thingiverse to convert your ender 3 / cr10 to direct drive.
just doo it. the prints improoved alot! retract sits at 0.55 mm, no blobs, zitz or similar.
and you can print sooo fast without issues.
totaly worth it!
a light printhead on a heavy bed moving printer makes no sense anyways.
Hey, could you at some point do a guide on how to install a V6 on the Ender 3? I've been looking around for guides for BMG+V6 combos on the Ender 3
You can use the product from this video as shown. I didn't go into great detail but the mounting is here at least.
@@xKenn I did look at that mount before, but I needed something in particular that mounts directly on the heatsink, as for the oddest reason whenever I try any mount that doesn't have the fan directly on the heatsink, I start getting heat creep (I've tried several models that has the heatsink fan not directly connected)
@@TeachingTech I do appreciate showing off how it fits with the v6! But I noticed that there is hardly any sort of mounts out there that is compatible with the direct drive kits that you've featured on the channel; nor have I found any other direct drive setup that's been reliable. Like, the only reliable mount that I've found with the V6 combination is the BantaMount, but unfortunately, that one doesn't have support for the BMG at all
xKen probably has a weak fan, mine barely gets the job done on my E3D V6 clone. It’s just a generic 40mm (clear/transparent) fan on mine, some custom short/direct duct and J-head mount for my i3 clone.
It’s rarely an issue but if my stupid repetier host program decides to turn it off for a few seconds (like it does during return to home with insanely slow Z axis) then I get the whole thing filled with molten plastic and have to torch it (I’ve never used a cooling fan for the plastic side, never needed it for PLA or ABS, so honestly it should just be direct wires in along with my motor cooling fans and lighting...). It’s an insanely quiet fan but it’s just barely enough (I mean I could certainly cool it with my duel stage, contra-rotating 40mm server fans screaming like a small jet but I do live in my house sometimes... haha!).
Anyways my suggestion is to get a better fan. I’ve had many different generic fans to expensive ones, it’s been a tossup on which I’ve most liked per application but just look for the ones with higher current ratings, or even crank them past spec with a “boost converter” and set it to something like 15v instead of 12v like they are designed. I see a lot of hideous air ducting in printers... Like I get it, my background is in aerospace engineering and I love fluid dynamics, but come on guys... Some ducts are just terrible! So yep, put it directly on if you can, and try a better fan, it should fix the issue.
@@jakegarrett8109 xKen I've tried several different 4010 fans, all have the exact same issue. But once I go back to using the 3010 fan with the direct heatsink mounting that came with my V6, I don't experience the issue at all. I currently using the BantaMount (which hasn't given me issue, bantam.design/mount); but what I tried was the Tank hotend by Greg191134: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3080548
I'm also using a 5010 fan for part cooling as well
What do you think about trying to mate this up with the Mosaic Palette 2? Or other multi-color/filament feeder? With essentially no Bowden tube, wouldn’t the dreaded waste block be nearly eliminated?
Perhaps mount the whole thing on the cross beam and add a second Z stepper assembly on the opposite side to handle the weight and load dynamics.
i still using a Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder..with fishbone gears
An oldie but a goody. You have been 3D printing for a lot longer than most :)
Nice shirt and great video!
Do you buy your Formula 1 clothing directly from the constructors themselves?
I got all of it over the counter at GPs over the years.
Can you please cover the 3d printable direct drive extruder speed drive
I paid the same for a DD kit with all original creality parts, incl extruder and all already on it, from banggood
I got the MDD 1.2 with OEM extruder and hotend. Was going to go with Herome Gen 5 but gave up, not worth the hassle. Ended up just printing the 5015 duct from printermods and is a much simpler setup.
Hi nice video! Did you recommend this upgrade to cr10s pro? I want to keep the original hot end!
Hiya Micheal have you reviewed any anycubic printers yet ? as a beginner im saving to buy one a mega s version ? is this a suitable first time printer ? nice videos cool tech too
Great video. I was unaware of this product and wanted to do a direct drive conversion, but wanted something more stable than printed parts. At this price, this was an instant buy for me.
I'm wondering if you have seen much about the ender extenders (a company selling frame kits to increase the ender 3's build volume to 400mmx400mm for around $130). I'd love to see some reviews and thoughts of yours on that some day as it is something I'm considering.
My patrons brought my attention to it but they don't ship to Australia.
@@TeachingTech Oh that's very unfortunate! The facebook community around it are doing some very wild things with upgrading the ender 3. There is one user who has a custom bed standard width but a whole meter in length and prints things like full size greatswords and battleships. I hope their shipping options change soon - the ability to increase build volume for such a relatively cheap upgrade is very exciting.
@@TeachingTech I've started a convo with the makers to see what we can do about getting you one on the other side of the globe :)
Gr8 video, but I'm a newbie and don't know wot ringing is. Would have been nice if you explained it better
Another great video.
I have to know where you got the Senna T-shirt? I have to have 1
At the Abu Dhabi grand prix, there was a stand with vintage Senna and James Hunt merch.
@@TeachingTech Thanks again. I found it online. Here is the link in case anyone else is interested; global.rakuten.com/en/store/motorimoda/item/1009we180010/
Just bought this and haven’t installed it yet. How much taller does it make it for Ender 5
guys..... why pay anthing for a Ender 3 Direct extruder convetion?
I literally just printed a single bracket to mount the extruder on the x axis carrier in line with the hotend.... works like a charm. 0 Euro spend.
And to those who are affraid of x axis ringing / wobble.... Guys, the Y axis is still heavier than the X including the extruder....
Print quality during fast movements is not worse than before. (speed ~60mm/s).
ive done the same, also with a bullseye part cooler, it fits perfectly. I havent tried flexible filaments just yet but I imagine it would work just fine.
axised001 because metal is better then it being 3D printed.
@@redline3036 and how you come up with that claim? is there any science behind it or just guessing?
its quite safe to say that rigidity and durability is high enough for this application. We neither see high peak loads nor extreme (extreme how it can get for a polymer) temperatures.
Im using this bracket since over a year with still no sight of degradation or disadvantage against an metal bracket or the OEM bowden layout.
In addition a metal bracket would increase mass and therefore inertia.
So i can corroborate my claims, can you?
@@axised001 Its not a claim its an opinion cool the jets buddy. If printing things was such a good option then why not print the whole machine out of plastic If weights an issue? I'd rather use metal not to mention the weight of the extruder is already on the bar regardless of where the extruder is.
If it was just an opinion, make it clear like "in my opinion..".
You simply stated "metal is better than being printed"
And I don't recommend printing the entire printer from plastic for given reasons above, just in places where mechanical and thermal loading allow it. prusa mk3s are great printers too, even though lots of printed parts, aren't they?
Hi Ya TT, I noticed in this video you too are using the EZ Extruder. Short story I modded and redesigned some things to accommodate using the EZEx, Bullseye and a V6 hotend creating a DD like setup. In the end it works fine but its bulky and heavy. Looking at your setup in the video is something I am interested in. I am not apposed in changing the cooling system but would like if possible a list of items (cooling setup...Hero Me?) that will compliment this MDD, EZR and V6 setup? Any change of pointing me in that direction? I am about to get into the EnderExtender kit and I would like to lighten the load on my X axis and your setup might seem to help in light of my components. Thanks
Michael is best viewed at speed x1.5
And yet any not native speakers ask me to speak slowly so they can follow.
@@TeachingTech ok, I am French, not very British native :) my only link to English is Breton/Irish DNA
This looks WAY easier than other kits I've seen.
Can you also print PLA faster with direct drive? I currently print at 50 mm/sec.
I know it's a bit late to the party here, but could you link to the filament guide you used in your video that sits atop of the extruder unit? I've been hunting everywhere for it and still cannot find it!
Hi Michael! I'm debating on doing this mod on my Ender 5 Pro, but the jury is still out. I would like to do it, since it eliminates the bowden tube and the pressfit couplings to keep it in place. They have worn out already, only 3 months after purchase, and since I discovered too late now my capricorn tube is to bits as well as one of two couplings won't come off at all anymore. The direct drive setup should get rid of that problem entirely obviously. And in the process, I'm hoping to up my game in PLA and PETG printing. The advantages regarding flexibles are a good bonus.
However, since on the Ender 5 models the bed only goes up and down, the gantry will go left to right as well as back and forth. It is the latter motion that bothers me. I'm afraid the relatively high weight of the stepper motor, positioned relatively high over the top rollers, will cause the entire carriage to torque back and forth whilst printing, causing printing defects in its turn. Also, all the weight being in front of the gantry beam should cause the entire thing to torque to some extent, worst point being in the center position. This could make bed levelling more complicated, as I don't have a BLTouch or the likes. It will probably also wear out the rollers a lot more quickly.
I like the MicroSwiss dual gear direct drive setup because of better front to back weight distribution, as they have the stepper mounted on the back, directly over the gantry beam. But the price tag on that is just too steap for me to be able to explain its necessity to my wife. Also, it doesn't tackle the feared torquing issue in the Y direction. I guess I can replicate it with a printed part from Thingyverse though. And as the field of metal processing is my day job, I might even be able to do a custom carriage plate.
This is my only printer, so I need to keep it as versatile as possible. Getting another printer to have both bowden and direct drive setups is not within budget. The fastest I do at this point is PLA at 60-70mm/s. Beyond that my inner perfectionist will start giving me a hard time over the results.
What are your thoughts on this? Have you done this modification on an Ender 5 family machine yet and what were your findings?
Thank you for what you do on your channel, I find it very informative and it is one of the reasons I got my Ender 5 Pro in the first place.
Will you ever be doing a video on converting a Prusa Mini to direct drive? I have a Prusa Mini, a bondtech bmg, and an e3d v6 but no skills to model them all together.
Hey
How is the compatibility with this MDD-kit and the Hero Me Fan Duct ? Should I use the REmix you made or is the "normal" one ok, since the REmix Hero Me is videoed with another DD-kit.
Great video as usual but after a year of playing with my Ender 3 I have to say that the stock printer when setup correctly with no mods produces excellent results, i Have yet to see any noticeable print quality difference between what I print on the standard printer and all these modified ones on yoyutube, the only mod I would say is noticeable is the silent board mod and thats just noise reduction, theres an old saying if it aint broke dont try to fix it LOL, out of the box the Ender 3 is a superb printer, they could do with adding thermal run away in to the stock firmware and making the standard control board with silent stepper drivers but really for the money its superb and all these extra mods are really a bit of a waste of time and money in my opinion, with a bit of practice you can produce some amazing quality for under 200 bucks.
the silent board isnt just "noise reduction" the tmc drivers also eliminate salmon skin.
I would say most of my favourite mods are more user friendly usage rather than print quality improvement. As Mark says a board upgrade kills two birds with one stone.
Bit late to say this but if you planned on upgrading to an all metal hot end then a direct drive system gains a lot more merit, since all metal hot ends are very picky about retraction and such
Michael, I am looking to upgrade to an all metal hotend - probably the E3d or Micro Swiss, which one would you recommend?
I was looking to buy one but couldn't find one for my tronxy so I just made one
Can u do a video on direct drive TPU or TPE settings?
Nice. I'm so tired of bowden extruders... N the clicking - _- n retraction settings etc
Awesome video!
When is more Sk-Go content coming up???
Conversion to Duet Maestro, G5 flex drive and copperhead hot end all in the future.
Amazing! thank you! =D
Nice kit. Do you know any source of this in UK as after shipping its £35 (over $45).
I just ordered the micro swiss direct drive extruder with hot end, will I be able to fit a bl-touch to this?
This is awesome! I’m considering getting this but how does this compare to the SpeedyDrive v1 on Thingiverse?
Of course this kit is injection molding and aluminum which is better for durability but I can reprint parts. Is this an overall better option than the SpeedDrive? Thanks😀
Patrick Raliuga this is what I’m wondering. I’ve wanted to do it for so long but want to know the draw backs. Hopefully he makes a comparison to the speed drive
I've printed the Direct-Drivinator, modeled and printed some custom extruder parts for it and installed into my 3 ender 3's, works wonders and i haven't had any loss in quality whatsoever.
The most boring part was extending the Extruder wires to keep build height, but that's easy if you can solder well.
Is this still a good option for a direct drive upgrade for the Ender 3? I just got an Ender 3 as a gift and am wanting to do a few upgrades to it to make it even better. I would really like to do PLA and flexible materials.
would this work with the Micro Swiss all metal hotend for the CR 10?
I'd say that if the bearings on the X carriage wheels are really good and there are 6 of them with the weight distributed to the 4 holding the weight of the extruder that the affect on the X would be minimal for this. If you added something that weight a kilo that might be different.
NICE Senna shirt!!!!!!!
Hi, can you share slicer setup.. retract distance and retract speed? I try this mod too but not yet find any good result
try the supervulcano on the cr10 max with the hemera please :)
Switching from the stock stepper to a pancake stepper would require software changes, yes?
Your filament holder. It looks like you turn it around. Is that for better feeding, Also Is it just holding bu one bolt or did you do something with it to hold both bolts on it?
thanks for the video. do you know if is a stl file for those attachments?
Have you thought about doing this type of install with a Pancake Motor? Hopefully taking away some of the ringing that one would expect from the added weight of a heavy motor..
Since the factory reused extruder is not geared you can't use a smaller stepper.
Noticed that you did not put the pneumatic fitting back on the extruder before inserting the Bowden tube. Is it not required with the new position of the extruder? Seems with the "play" of the tube fit in the extruder port that it might be difficult to get the filament into the tube easily. Maybe I'm just overthinking it though.
I just did this, but i also have a petg sealed box that i need to print from, can you think of a filament guide that'd work?
do those blue clips have a name? the ones for retaining the PTFE fittings in the up position so they don't come loose.
So, based on this video, I purchased this kit. easy to assemble and works absolutely beautifully! My only question is that now i can’t find any compatible hot end and/or shroud or (fan) covers for this setup. Anyone have a lead on something that would work?
I just got the Ender 5 version of that kit, thanks for the walkthrough! I assume it's going to shake more, having more weight to move... Weird question, about that though, why don't printers have counter weights on the other side of the belt to keep the shaking to a minimum? I have my printer on a wobbly card table, so all the shaking back and forth has some 'give' to dampen out over. Whether that's good or not, I don't know, not sure how to test it.
If im not mistaken the shaking adds ghosting and the best way to tell if you are encountering a lot of ghosting is text based stuff. If you have letters on the side of something ghosting makes it look a lot worse.
I saw a system once where there was a whole second carriage to move in the opposite direction to cancel vibrations. From memory the creator abandoned it because it was needlessly complex for the limited improvements.