How did you remove the rear driveshaft from the differential? I’m replacing my differential at the moment and cannot for the life of me figure it out. Thanks!
Make sure your Haldex Controller Software Version is newer than 7082. That was the problem with mine.. once updated my AWD issue was fixed... after a lot of mucking about
Haldex disengages while braking. No matter the situation, the moment you press the brake pedal it turns off immidiately, not even a controller will allow you to have it on while braking, its programmed in the firmware, so brake boosting cant be. More power= reduced maintenance periods. I drive the shit out of my 1.8T so i change the oil 4k periods not 7 or 10 how the manual suggests. If you putting a ton of power through a stock haldex, its maintenance periods should be much shorter.
After you loosened the subframe to lower it down, how did you get access to the bolts at the top of the diff ? After lowering mine down as far as possible it’s still impossible to get any tools in to remove the bolts ? Thanks for any replies
I used this tool set. www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/schwaben-complete-26-pc-stubby-socket-driver-set/019297sch01a/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAh9njBRCYARIsALJhQkFxHpLD_hcA26c8OJ0GjBU0DgYGg5q8SSJmdmNubFfSa-pHDRbhTP8aAg29EALw_wcB
About how long would you say this took you overall? Mine failed and looking at getting replacement. Trying to decide if it's worth trying to do myself or I should just get a shop to do it. I'm about intermediate level with mechanical stuff, have enough tools to do most of my own maintenance/repairs but I don't typically do really big jobs. What would you say is the difficulty level on this?
Dr. Elucidation it’s not hard, I can’t remember how long. The only issue was some bolts at the top if you don’t want to drop the whole rear subframe. But they wanted $10,000 for parts and labor at the dealer, I go a brand new rear diff with Haldex controller for under $3,000 shipped. So it was worth it, saved over $7,000.
Mines out on a bone stock 2016 with 72 clicks. I’ve had the car since new, launched maybe 9-10 times. Stage 3 you’re lucky you made it out of the garage.
I did a Haldex oil change on R, and 200 miles later the Diff blew! I noticed on the forum that allot of Diff's have blown at 40k Miles (exactly when you change the Haldex oil). Did this happen to you as well?
@@SleepyDubVRT well my haldex went from dying to dead. its FWD all the time now. and i didnt beat on my car that much. I guess the wet clutches are weak or something. What do you think? Hows your new diff holding up ?
@@sharky322 The haldex pump is the weak link on the MK7, the haldex unit is a clever unit, but if the pump gets clogged up / dirty / doesn't run at the right pressure, then it's bye bye Haldex.... VW dealer has replaced the haldex clutch part on my car, but it is still not right... They should of replaced the whole diff, but they didn't....
My car was flagged by a local dealer w the T1 code. Guess they saw my apr sticker. Im only stage 1. Tech swears I have a DP so they went ahead and flagged my car. Now I gotta find a cheap way to replace rear diff since my wheels lock up. Kind of worried about my DSG, and how it held after the wheels locked up on me going 40mph. And several more times otw to the house....
MagiChef they will see the mods. If the stock parts deemed damaged from the modifications (in this case all the extra power and probably loads of launch controls. they will not replace it and also flag it for td1)
I've replaced three diffs on MK7 R's and a handful on MK6, for the same fault. Why I was asking, I forget not all tech/dealers are like me/mine when it come to mods. I would of not pointed at the tune or you doing LC, it's a feature of the car and if the engines did not want you to do it you would not be able to. The Haldex and drive shaft are known to be the weak links in the set up. I would keep a eye on your drive shaft imo.
They did in fact flag the car, and I did attempt to get it replaced under warranty because my friend had the exact same issue with his completely stock 2015 A3 so I didn't believe it was from the big turbo. They said since it has the upgraded turbo they would not replace it.
SleepyDubVRT just had the same problem on my 16 golf r if i don't talk about my missfire problem ...they changed the pump and still don't work...they just ordered the rear diff today! 60k on the car.
@@jamstersmith4625 All that was required for me was the Haldex control unit software needed updating!! Unreal - Simple software update and boom like brand new. No diff or control unit replacement required.. Launch control to confirm, zero wheel spin and zoom. Background: My car is a 2015 Golf R built late 2014 and while trying to fix the problem along the way VW replaced the pump with new.. As one of the error codes was AWD haldex pump failure. After it was replaced, haldex oil service, ecu reset and all that. They said it was fixed, road tested etc. However, of course best way to test if it isn't wet and you're on a hill,. a simple launch control will make it obvious.. and no it sure wasn't fixed. As I had read enough internets by this point to know as the Control Unit is the 'D' and the Diff was the 'F' it must be the diff since the pump didn't fix it.. Nope, just a bloody update.. As the VW techs say, most people wouldn't notice as they drive them not enough to notice.
Hey mate, did you have to code in the new haldex? Or was it plug and play
How did you remove the rear driveshaft from the differential? I’m replacing my differential at the moment and cannot for the life of me figure it out.
Thanks!
I’m thinking bout picking up a manual and sticking to stage 2 at most. What’s your opinion on the rear diff with stage 2 and no more?
j k it will hold power. They had a revision, the 2015 and early 16s had a different version that failed even on stock cars
Just had s3 8v facelift rear diff changed but now sat in front wheel drive not engaging the diff any suggestions?
Glad you are back in business! did you buy the upgraded controller that moves more power to the rear?
Your R looks amazing man!! What's your tire size setup??
Max Morales thanks, 235/45/17
is it worth it the conversion ? i'm mean is the car reliable after conversion
How long did this take you to get done?
Make sure your Haldex Controller Software Version is newer than 7082. That was the problem with mine.. once updated my AWD issue was fixed... after a lot of mucking about
It may have been brake boosting you showed in previous video. That's far way more bad than launch controm.
Javier Pelitz probably so, or the no lift shift
Haldex disengages while braking. No matter the situation, the moment you press the brake pedal it turns off immidiately, not even a controller will allow you to have it on while braking, its programmed in the firmware, so brake boosting cant be. More power= reduced maintenance periods. I drive the shit out of my 1.8T so i change the oil 4k periods not 7 or 10 how the manual suggests. If you putting a ton of power through a stock haldex, its maintenance periods should be much shorter.
After you loosened the subframe to lower it down, how did you get access to the bolts at the top of the diff ? After lowering mine down as far as possible it’s still impossible to get any tools in to remove the bolts ? Thanks for any replies
I used this tool set.
www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/schwaben-complete-26-pc-stubby-socket-driver-set/019297sch01a/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAh9njBRCYARIsALJhQkFxHpLD_hcA26c8OJ0GjBU0DgYGg5q8SSJmdmNubFfSa-pHDRbhTP8aAg29EALw_wcB
I am about to do the same on my car. Did you have to do any programming to make the new unit talk to your car or just plugged it in and go? Thanks
Lucas Holloway plug and go 👍🏻
@@SleepyDubVRT how is it holding up ?? I need one, mine is causing me grief...
I was able to buy a used one off a 2018 with 31k miles for 325$. I'm about to change mine out, hopefully it goes well.
About how long would you say this took you overall? Mine failed and looking at getting replacement. Trying to decide if it's worth trying to do myself or I should just get a shop to do it. I'm about intermediate level with mechanical stuff, have enough tools to do most of my own maintenance/repairs but I don't typically do really big jobs. What would you say is the difficulty level on this?
Dr. Elucidation it’s not hard, I can’t remember how long. The only issue was some bolts at the top if you don’t want to drop the whole rear subframe. But they wanted $10,000 for parts and labor at the dealer, I go a brand new rear diff with Haldex controller for under $3,000 shipped. So it was worth it, saved over $7,000.
@@UsernameLogin lol. Do you see how old this video is my guy?
@@UsernameLogin there where a bunch of MQB cars that had faulty AWD from the factory and VW knows about it.
Is there a specific way the driveshaft is supposed to bolt up to the rear coupling?
Bro ,I just order a diff for my golf R what other parts you need to change it? Thank you
Hi,How long did the job take?Cheers
Francesca Guthrie probably between 6-10 hours. I can’t really remember but it wasn’t too too long
Mines out on a bone stock 2016 with 72 clicks. I’ve had the car since new, launched maybe 9-10 times. Stage 3 you’re lucky you made it out of the garage.
Where did you source the diff from?
David Veal VW
Hey man what's the song you got going at the beginning??
What did you do with the old unit?
Kurt Kennedy it's just sitting in my shed
SleepyDubVRT want to get rid of it?
I know a lot of them are failing I want to tear into one and see whyb
Kurt Kennedy I'll think about it
Gandalf721 so funny you asked. I filmed a video about it yesterday. It will be up tomorrow at 10am
Don't suppose you'd had a Haldex oil change on it recently...
I did a Haldex oil change on R, and 200 miles later the Diff blew! I noticed on the forum that allot of Diff's have blown at 40k Miles (exactly when you change the Haldex oil). Did this happen to you as well?
my haldex is slowly dying too. and im on stock power.
sharky322 and everyone talked shit to me about my power levels and driving style. Lol
@@SleepyDubVRT well my haldex went from dying to dead. its FWD all the time now. and i didnt beat on my car that much. I guess the wet clutches are weak or something. What do you think? Hows your new diff holding up ?
@@sharky322 The haldex pump is the weak link on the MK7, the haldex unit is a clever unit, but if the pump gets clogged up / dirty / doesn't run at the right pressure, then it's bye bye Haldex.... VW dealer has replaced the haldex clutch part on my car, but it is still not right... They should of replaced the whole diff, but they didn't....
My car was flagged by a local dealer w the T1 code. Guess they saw my apr sticker. Im only stage 1. Tech swears I have a DP so they went ahead and flagged my car. Now I gotta find a cheap way to replace rear diff since my wheels lock up. Kind of worried about my DSG, and how it held after the wheels locked up on me going 40mph. And several more times otw to the house....
Did you ever get it fixed? If so, how much was it?
Wheels?
WeekEnd133 OZ allegeritas 17x8
SleepyDubVRT thanks!
Why dud you not get it replaced under warranty?
MagiChef they will see the mods.
If the stock parts deemed damaged from the modifications (in this case all the extra power and probably loads of launch controls. they will not replace it and also flag it for td1)
I've replaced three diffs on MK7 R's and a handful on MK6, for the same fault. Why I was asking,
I forget not all tech/dealers are like me/mine when it come to mods. I would of not pointed at the tune or you doing LC, it's a feature of the car and if the engines did not want you to do it you would not be able to. The Haldex and drive shaft are known to be the weak links in the set up. I would keep a eye on your drive shaft imo.
MagiChef comments from techs like you are extremely valuable to the community. Thank you!
They did in fact flag the car, and I did attempt to get it replaced under warranty because my friend had the exact same issue with his completely stock 2015 A3 so I didn't believe it was from the big turbo. They said since it has the upgraded turbo they would not replace it.
Pak Man I haven't gotten a good launch with this car, no launch control on the 6 speed cars
RIP guy @ 11:14
You should probably get him in the ground before he starts to smell.
MikeHawk1009 lmaooooooo
Gotta do this on my S3 now. Did you just let the subframe hang while you took your diff out?
Rosty I backed all the bolts out almost to the end and let the subframe rest on the bolts
@@SleepyDubVRT awesome, thanks man
There are no better than stock alternatives?
Bro is that a better diff for 2900?? Will it hold up to that power???
Fred Jones it was another stock diff, I don't think the diff went bad upon further inspection. I think it was a failed Haldex pump
SleepyDubVRT just had the same problem on my 16 golf r if i don't talk about my missfire problem ...they changed the pump and still don't work...they just ordered the rear diff today! 60k on the car.
SleepyDubVRT damnnn....
@@joeydowning7338 is it fixed?
@@jamstersmith4625 All that was required for me was the Haldex control unit software needed updating!! Unreal - Simple software update and boom like brand new. No diff or control unit replacement required.. Launch control to confirm, zero wheel spin and zoom.
Background: My car is a 2015 Golf R built late 2014 and while trying to fix the problem along the way VW replaced the pump with new.. As one of the error codes was AWD haldex pump failure. After it was replaced, haldex oil service, ecu reset and all that. They said it was fixed, road tested etc. However, of course best way to test if it isn't wet and you're on a hill,. a simple launch control will make it obvious.. and no it sure wasn't fixed. As I had read enough internets by this point to know as the Control Unit is the 'D' and the Diff was the 'F' it must be the diff since the pump didn't fix it.. Nope, just a bloody update.. As the VW techs say, most people wouldn't notice as they drive them not enough to notice.
nice pt shirt
BUMMER!!!!!!
part it out
How did you diagnose the rear diff failure?