NOTE: This unit is NOT A HALDEX, it is a Borg Warner. I used the term Haldex because that is basically what we all still call it. LOL Also I have a DSG teardown video coming soon! Be sure to like this video if you like teardown goodies!!! Thanks so much
@@sharg0 yes they bought the company haldex traction systems.. very common practice.. you have numerous smaller companies with a parent company.. but the factories still have haldex traction systems above the door, still the same designers workers etc, just a new parent company.
@@scottmclean337 yes, you could, but you'd add much more stress into the transfer case, and that may blow eventually (they also fail sometimes). the smartest is to get a haldex controller, so you can choose when you want it to be permanent awd, and disengage it when you dont need it
We are Haldexrepairs in the UK, this Gen 5 haldex coupling is perfectly fine and has not failed mechanically. It is most likely to just have pump failure. The clutch is still totally good. But the most common part for coupling failure is actually the outer O ring seal on the piston you removed at 4:26 gets chewed up and leaks. That is pretty much the only thing that fails on them. Good luck! And we call it a Haldex even though its a Borgwarner Power Drive Systems G5 coupling due to licencing issues since Haldex AWD was sold to BorgW. Enjoy :)
can you get bearing kits for the differential section? i have had 2 come thro now with knackered output bearings on the drivers side. no-one has let me have a car long enough to ID the bearings. (in the UK too)
I had a outwaren pump too. I changed it to a new one and the system was totally fine. Now I have a new problem with my rear final drive. If im going between 60 to 100 kph, i get a really loud wummering noise from the back of my car. The noise is not on contact with any tirestuff or so. I think I have to replace all my bearings in the Haldex/Differential unit. Seems like that this is also a common issiu with the Haldex. I have 190000km on the clock an its a 2014 Golf 7 Variant 2.0TDI.
@@patrykkrol9433 I don't recall any play that shouldn't be there, was diagnosed with a stethoscope and running the car up to speed on a ramp, was a failed bearing for sure but no customer has yet been willing to let me have their car for a few weeks to strip and identify the bearings
Pump motor failed. Clean and reassemble with new motor and ride out. Those clutch friction discs aren’t too bad. Same type of multi plate wet clutch as motorcycles use. You can dress the steel plates by polishing them with some 400 grit paper glued to a surfacing plate. I have saved many dirt bike clutches this way that were much worse.
Could we infer that the pump's failure was caused by the black debris? As if the pump's internal weren't sealed properly? Because if that's the case, the failure seems inevitable and changing the pump should be part of routine maintenance.
Interestingly when I explained what is in an automatic transmission to my Uncle once the first thing he said was that it was just motorcycles that have them. This just shows you how easy it is to be ignorant or uneducated on these things. I am not even an expert on these things but I do at least know the way that they do work. Of course once when I started my 2006 Jetta and it took around 30 seconds for the idle to go down (normal for a modern vehicle) he thought hitting the accelerator would make it go down faster but he is so old fashioned he thought it had a carburetor ROFL!! He must not realize that for quite a long time no US vehicles have ever had one of those!! Whatever you do don't let him within 50 miles of your vehicle because he doesn't understand fluid specs and would probably ruin something.
I had a loss of rear traction on my 2015 S3 and noticed the voltage to the motor was less than half of what it is supposed to be under full load. Replaced the motor with new fluid and it’s now working correctly, pushing 11.xx volts to the rear motor. Definitely a best first step if you’re dealing with this issue as the motors can be had for
Had the same issue on my 2015 S3, noticed I had a fwd car, took it to the dealer and they replaced the pump under warranty. Happened at around 50k km (sorry, in Canada, not using miles). Car is now at 115k km, gonna service it soon.
Charles....Check the pressure release valve at the top of the casing where the prop shaft flange meets the clutch pack housing....to the right of the HA1 casing mark at 2:11 to 2:37 in the video. See if it is clogged with debris...let us know...if you find anything there. Debris causing it to stick open = clutch slip and overworking the pump motor... then some type of failure. Also, after replacing a pump...the relearn procedure is omitted...leading to replacement of entire rear units...that would have otherwise returned to normal function.
@@HumbleMechanic Close to 3 years now. I recommend to do it every year or so. I did clean the pump motor thing and replaced the oil but front wheels were still spinning. The oil was dark though. After about 2 months I came across an article that said to do that and it worked. The clutches wear over time, so the calibration adjust the clamp force so the rear wheels get the correct amount of power again- I guess. I bought my car in 2014.
A few notes and questions: -Clutch pack is available from Audi, about 600-700eur, but this pack didn't look too bad. I've seen some pairs that are fused together. -Pump is available from both borg warner and Audi, there are also service kits around for much less. Generally the brushes go bad, the pump can be tested with 12V. -The pump continuously runs when you start the car. Theres also a small pump / actuator inside the control unit with a plunger blocking/allowing the oil to flow and this is what controls AWD, probably that has failed as well. -You are correct, Audi europe service manual doesn't have a rebuild guide. But I have a Audi USA PDF that has rebuild instructions. There are no measurements for putting the haldex together but there are extensive measurements on the diff-haldex side, otherwise there will be noise when running. Now the questions: -Can you mix and match parts from two broken haldex/diff units? Eg clutch and plate pairs? -Especially, can you mix and match diff and haldex halfs? My mechanic says crown wheel and pinion are "married" with each other and you can't match them, it will be noisy. I have a broken awd that no longer works on my Audi TT mk1, AWD works on the lift but on the ground the rear wheels don't engage... Haldex fluid was pitch black last time I checked it.
It was quite interesting to see the progression from the Mk 4's Haldex to this Haldex-type Not-A-Haldex-because-Borg-Warner-makes-it system. I was curious if the glitter was ferrous or non-ferrous as that might narrow down its origin. Also, I wonder if the pump/screen was clogged with metal debris prior to going into the shop. In any case, it seems like the pump got sad, which made the motor brushes get real spicy, hence the lovely black powder that dumped out of its housing.
Thank you for showing this. Got 3rd gen Haldex on my Volvo XC70 and can’t get it to work for a year now: (1) DEM was corroded, got replaced and re-programmed - didn’t help, (2) Soleniod was replaced - didn’t help, (3) Oil pump was replaced - didn’t help, (4) Oil pressure sensor was replaced - didn’t help…all of this time diagnostics is showing low oil pressure…I guess it’s time to open it up and check those rings…
The lack of serviceable vehicle components and repair parts is shameful. These components were assembled and should be readily disassembled for a rebuild. The right to repair laws that are being considered, which industry is vigorously opposing, may change the repair industry, but it will be slow in coming. Example, Porsche will not rebuild a failed PDK, $20K for a replacement and they will not make parts available if you wanted to rebuild one, so your point on keeping up with the maintenance or shortening the intervals when used in severe conditions is spot on. Only problem is getting owners to actually do it. As usual, great video.
I've been considering getting a smaller car but I still want awd. My current car has quattro (torsen) and never really requires any service to that system so it's helpful to see how one of these haldex based systems work and what to expect. Thanks!
320.000 km & 31 years of use of my Passat Syncro g60 @ 200 ABT hp, no engine repairs, no VCT Syncro malfunctions! Very nice work, congratulations! The Syncro Heresy
Yeah, things weren't made to fail back then. I don't believe these failures that happen on new cars are unintentional, just can't believe it. Many haldex systems fail at 50k km, which is very very low. I doubt they don't test their cars before launching them cause otherwise they would see the failure quite easily.
My untuned 2016 MK7 Golf R w DSG had a similar failure at 30,000 miles where my car became FWD only (complete with FWD burnouts when launching the car). Unlike your failure, my dealer said they found a bunch of clutch material in the motor filter as the friction material had disintegrated away from the rings prematurely. I was told that the clutch packs weren't fully compatible with the Haldex, erm, "clutch" fluid. The entire rear diff assembly was replaced under warranty. The outgoing unit was "Rev D" found in 2015 and early 2016 DSG models, and the replacement was Rev G or H.
Just wanted to help out since I had this issue. Like mentioned (and thank you again HumbleMechanic) it could be the pump, but it can also be the haldex controller which was my problem. Though if your haldex clutch packs are bad you can replace them from Powerzone in Europe. I'm sure they'd carry the clutch packs other places as well. Hope this helps someone.
I can't see why VW/Audi says this isn't a serviceable unit, Its surprisingly simple and uses the same exact clutch style/design as a the DSG transmissions AND that pretty much every wet-clutch driven motorcycle has ever used but just with an electric motor to actuate it!! And the price on the actuation motor is totally absurd too! Awesome stuff as always dude, This was cool as heck to see and it's awesome to see how it works
Great video! Cool to see how it all goes together. Fixed my 2016 R with slipping issues at 40k with replacing the pump and new fluid. Seems like the pumps themselves are causing more issues than the clutch units themselves. Service mine every 20k or so with no issues since. Look forward to the DSG breakdown 💪
@@rkan2 it is servicable, you can change the haldex fluid and clean the filter on the pump. If the pump is actually broken, you can also just put a new one on.
VW Group say that the HALDEX5 system fluid needs changing at 40k miles here in the UK. I tend to do mine at half that mileage (20k). Thanks for showing us the inner working on that unit.
I'm kind of surprised this isn't serviceable, it's just a lighter version of a wet clutch pack that can be found in most tractors for a whole number of applications. I've had no trouble getting an overhaul kit for the under/over transmission in a 1967 Cockshutt 1750 so it seems kind of ridiculous to me that it's easier to get parts for a 55 year old tractor than it is to even try to get parts to overhaul the AWD on cars that are barely even 15 years old and only seems to need a clutch and pump.
My mates old Superb 4x4 with the CJX R motor had this with 90k on the clock and was much worse. We re-assembled, changed the filter head on the pump and filled it and sent it. Car went another 40k in his ownership til he sold it. Zero issues.
Ford also used the Haldex system on the mk1 Kuga ( escape in the US) they were known to fail. Always caused by not having the oil changed. The small gauze filter blocks and kills the pump. Ford initially said it wasn’t a service item. However the systems were also used on Volvo cars and Landrover Freelanders. In these applications it was recommended to change the oil and clean the gauze at least every 30k miles. This helped prevent failure. My mk1 Kuga, which I still have suffered a failure at around 40k miles. I replaced the pump with an eBay item. It cost around £230. I have had the oil and filter changed every year since and have had no more problems. Service kits are available on eBay which includes a new filter and a litre of oil for around £60.
I definitely deep dive. I'm a (the)fleet mechanic for a tree and Landscape company, theres a lot of vehicles, and equipment. I'm currently rebuilding the fuel injection pump for our 1996 kubota excavator. Lots of yik...but I love it. My golf (that I just berid myself of) was bought when I was still in NC, and, I had a sneaking suspicion the previous owner had an accident involving the ds front.. that became brutally apparent once I moved up to Massachusetts. 3 full suspension rebuilds, swaybar bushings, and it would kick it all out of wack within a year or so. Not to mention the engine mounts got destroyed twice up here.. thats all parts tho..
Thank you for the complete explanation humble mechanic I think you are one of the best channels in TH-cam for VW cars. I just bought a new arteon formotion and you just put the fear of God in me regarding this units. It is really scary to know that a little bit of metal could cause such a complex units to fail.
It’s a hydrostatic pump with pistons on a ramp like in a lawn tractor transmission. For the pump to make pressure it needs super tight piston to bore clearance. Any wear lowers pump pressure letting the clutches slip. That’s why there is was so much brush carbon in the case. Pump is worn out.
That clutch pack looks pretty much like a motorcycle clutch. In a motorcycle, the engine, the transmission and the clutch are, in most cases, lubricated by the same oil. Glitter in the oil is normal and I see it at every oil drain.
A couple of Ex VAG mechanics have independently of each other said to me that most of the time on the 5 its the pump that fails and the metal is from inside the pump. One of them said unless you never service it and kick the arse out of it the diffs last for ever. Both said the pumps are complete shite. A quick polish of the clutch plates on this one and a new pump and seals and she’ll be good to go.
Love these tear down vids. Just a quick request: Are you able to do a feature on the VW/Audi Twin charged 1.4 Engine? It'd be a really cool insight into what was a pretty unique concept for a mainstream drivetrain. Cheers
IM thinking those metal shavings got between the clutches and caused them to drag tripping the computer to sense movement when it should not have any. Not serviceable totally sucks. But a day and the life of newer VWs.
thanks for the video, I have been doing research on doing AWD conversion on a 2013 A3. I have been trying to find where to vent tubes lead to. How do I vent them
I have a 2008 S3 8P. This is the 2nd Haldex failing on my car. The last failure made rear wheels to lockup completely while going at 160km/h on Autobahn. I was on the left lane, had to pull to right in under 100 meters. Otherwise all the cars at the back crash from behind. Was lucky, I was able to save the car from a crash. But it gives no warning on dash, no whining sound of gears, no jerkiness. Everything seems fine, then rear wheels mechanically lock up. If it happened while I was turning at high speed, it would spin or crash at the hands of the most experienced racing driver. Nothing can disengage rear wheels. We had the same lockup in another 2018 model S3 too. I think the design required to be changed. In case of a failure, it shouldn't mechanically lock the wheels. But it happened 2 times on a 8P car, once in a 8V car. I think it may have killed many people, but it would be very hard to explain what happened after a catastrophic car crash, that your rear wheels locked up. And if the driver is living, will tell you this. But it may be hard to prove it in the court. I think Borgwarner needs to take these units back. Change the design with a safe unit. May cost billions though.
really interesting video, ive taken apart a few motorcycle clutches and transmissions before and this is almost exactly the same setup as some of those clutches, nice to fill in the blanks when it comes to car drivetrains
Ewwwww..... that electric motor!!! Any chance that replacing the pump's motor would've been enough to bring that Haldex back to life, considering the underwhelming amount of metal grinds in the oil and clutch components?
Yup ford tech and had a very common ptu failure that was making lots of noise and binding that would usually have windowed the case so I had to rip it apart to see how bad it was. Even though it had a core, I found al.lat nothing left of the pinion gear or ring gear. It smelt sooo bad the fire dept almost got called for a gas leak smell lmao!
Great video humble as usual but can’t you point me in the right direction on what’s a good solution to clean the outside of the haldex, bought a used one and it’s full of axel grease and crude lol
My rear diff blew up at 70mph with a violent jolt (one of the tapered roller bearings obliterated itself and cracked the diff open as it did so), very soon after my Haldex oil was changed. Working theory is the specialist garage may have drained the diff accidentally (there's even a TSB about this very thing, so it must not be uncommon), given the tone sounded different after the service. I even took it back to them before it blew saying it sounded wrong, but they sent me on my way.
I don't like your face. But I respect your knowledge on the euro repair. Half the time I learn something new by listening to you. Great information Always 👍
I repair these differentials, replacing all four bearings and four oil seals and thoroughly flush each part as well as the housing, from the inside. And that's not counting the Haldex clutch where there's also one ball bearing and one oil seal. If anyone is interested, please feel free to contact me.
Seems typical, the physical parts are still fine but the electrical component fails and/or malfunctions. Wonder if there is a way to just permanently lock the input shaft to the output? Very cool to see the inside of one of these!
Seems like as long as someone sells replacement clutch packs, it shouldn't be a difficult rebuild. None of the gears or rest of it seemed to have any real wear or damage. Of course if no one sells those discs then your sol. I figure there is probably a minimum thickness the stack needs to be as well so if they are worn to the point that the stack isn't tall enough even cleaning and sanding the steels won't get it running again.
Good vid! It does seem in this case the pump motor is the cause of the failure. I've seen this type of clutch packs in a fishing boat gearbox, where it locked in gear. It was caused by the clutch plates on the input shaft wearing notches in the spline, causing the plates to lock in place so they couldn't disengage not the ideal situation in a boat!
How does wheel size effect this unit? On Subaru's, if the front tires are worn and the rear tires are new, the computer interprets this as front axle slippage and will engage the clutch [partially] in order to try to reduce front axle speed. This leads to premature failure of the rear axle clutch pack.....
Recently ran into this exact issue in our repair shop (albeit our clutch unit had obvious clutch pack pieces in the oil). Unfortunately, I had to get into a heated argument with my colleague (VAG tech of 12 years) who was absolutely convinced that the AWD clutch pack was the exact same as a mechatronic limited slip diff. Needless to say, our relationship has become slightly soured...
Pos me on this VW unit. It appears that it would be possible to add a mechanical shaft directly to the rear and do away with the clutch mecha? If not, why not? TIA my brother!
As a mechanic i have never seen a failed Haldex, only clogged filter on the pump. The common failure on these gen 5 rear diffs are the right outer bearing. Have changed so many diffs because of failed bearings. Now i have started to take the diffs apart and change the bearings. I did see vw had a revisioned part after 2018, so maybe that newer diff don't have bearing issues.
I have the rear diff out of my 2017 VW Alltrack right now. I'm going to swap the bearings instead of buying a new one. Where and how did you source the bearings?
Hey Charles, Enjoyed the autopsy! Two questions. How much hp/tq can one of those units handle? Is there a high performance aftermarket for that unit? Thanks.
Question: If this unit came from from a shop that did some prelim trouble shooting, wouldn't they have drained the fluids themselves? This implies that some of the loose stuff would have been drained out and lost for this tear down. Second: What was the carbon looking stuff poured out of the motor housing? Seems the options are ground up brush material or the motor windings overheated enough to bake the insulation off the windings. Seems like the only way to grind up the brushes would be to have something come loose that allowed the brushes to continue to make contact with the commutator, allowing the motor to keep spinning, until there was no longer enough material to allow sufficient contact.
Can these units be bought rebuilt? This is just like a transmission and differential on any other car. I can't see why these units would not be rebuildable
Great video, as expected. Questions... {a} Can/should one throw a LSD in the gearbox you dissected (during a total upgrade)? {b} The pump in the clean side failed. Wouldn't/mightn't that have accounted for the metal in the clutch pack?
It might be considered non-serviceable, but when enough people need a rebuild and it is economical, someone will invent a rebuild kit. The DCT found in the Mitsubishi Evo X was meant to not be serviceable. In early Evo X DCT models, people just had to pay $10,000 for a whole DCT. Mitsubishi called it the TC:SST. This is interesting stuff. I aspire to own and Evo X. Their AWD problem is often having the ACD pump fail. It usually isn't the whole transfer case or diff. I think an ACD pump is $3000. The transfer case of the AWD Ford Taurus doesn't cost nearly as much as the VW Haldex. They just sell brand new ones because of it. The upcoming Toyota Corolla GR is interesting to me. If it can be almost as good as other Toyota Corolla variants, it will provide a lot of fun without costing so much in repair bills, when compared to other fun cars.
Yeah this doesn't even look that bad? Seems like if the motor were replaced it might work ok again though ideally you'd want to replace the clutchpack...which probably isn't easy to get separately given the "replace the unit" repair protocol. 5th gens do seem a good bit more problematic than the 4th gen units, and interestingly the 4th gen units have a real filter, while the 5th does not. Not sure which engineer(s) decided they don't need a filter in the system, but that wasn't a good move.
@@jessytremblay3867 That would be us! Corrosion in these Haldex controllers is mega big problem depending on your geographic location. Scotland is one of the hardest climates on them.
I feel like Gen2 and Gen4 Haldex have much lesser problems because they have a separate fluid filter traps all friction discs' debris before it get into the motor.
Its sad this is not a rebuildable part it seems so straightforward in its assembly eve more so than some automatic transmissions. Is it just that it is such a new design or something else? I know we didn't see the true cause of failure for the particles the pump looks like brush ware but can't see that going into the main area but hmmm. Or was it just you did such a great job showing us the disassembly 👊👊👊👊👊
I had a mishap when changing the haldex fluid. I unbolted the wrong bolts to pull out the pump and loosened the ground haldex wire by mistake from the screw and did not ground it back properly. After the fluid change started hearing rear clunking at low speed turns. And vibrating when launching. Ended up purchasing new pump that fixed the clunking but vibration on a launch stil persisted. 10 months later vibrating on launch lessened but still present depending how hard I launch. Fml anyway but still drives and pulls.
Would it be a good idea for high powered applications to just weld the input shaft directly to the diff input and delete the motorised clutchpack alltogether ?
It's weird that in Canada (where the awd system is being used a lot half of the year), the schedule maintenance says only a awd system fluid change is required every 45k KM. I called the dealer and asked about maintenance on the actual "haldex" pump, they said that unbolting the pump for a clean up (clean or change the mesh) would void the warranty of the unit and they also never do it. They are saying it's good for the lifetime of the vehicle with just fluid changes. My understanding is that it's different for US cars? It's part of the maintenance schedule the haldex pump cleanup?
This is the gen 5 Haldex (Borgwarner). I think you dont see a lot of problems on gen4 haldex like on a Golf R MK6 ! Do you think Gen 4 Haldex are better unit ?
*me worried af because I just picked up a tuned 2015 S3 with no AWD working 😅☠️ New pump arrives Monday and I hope to goodness that's the issue. Car is less than two weeks ownership 😮
So how does it control the level of clutch slip? 😮 Does it just pump oil into the clutch housing to press the disks together and controlls it via how much oil pressure there is?
Thanks for your videos they deffo have helped me modifie and maintain my golf R 7.5 wagon 👍 I have an issue with my haldex so I followed your haldex service video, fitted a néw pump, after approx 30 mins of hard driving, the traction light flickers and I'm getting front wheel spin, car cuts power when full traction is on, major fron wheel spin when traction is in sport or long press off, any ideas what could be causing this as I have no fault codes? Thanks in advance 👍 Darren
I've never owned a VW with the Haldex/similar system. I wonder if there is some kind of modification/bypass to reliably make this system permanent AWD. If there was, I would consider a R32 golf in the future. For now, I'll stick with my B5 S4 Quattro full mechanical drivetrain.
PRODIGY HumbleMechanic Loved it From the start to finish Thank you very much HumbleMechanic Take care and have a great day HumbleMechanic From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
The fancy one works the same, but instead of one clutch pack on the input shaft, it has two - one on each output shaft, but same principle, double the repair cost lol.
Believe it or not I have seen a couple of these diffs assembled together a complete rear end on a subframe with brakes, shocks, springs, axles and stuff a couple of days ago. Kind of mixed bag of emotions to see one of these diffs disassembled due to failure.
NOTE: This unit is NOT A HALDEX, it is a Borg Warner. I used the term Haldex because that is basically what we all still call it. LOL Also I have a DSG teardown video coming soon! Be sure to like this video if you like teardown goodies!!! Thanks so much
But it is a haldex... borgwarner just bought them 🤣 still made in the haldex factory...
@@garyhowe88 Actually B.W. only bought the division for hydraulics and four wheel drive systems. Haldex remains as a company of itself.
@@sharg0 yes they bought the company haldex traction systems.. very common practice.. you have numerous smaller companies with a parent company.. but the factories still have haldex traction systems above the door, still the same designers workers etc, just a new parent company.
Could you make a piece to replace that clutch system and then have full time awd?
@@scottmclean337 yes, you could, but you'd add much more stress into the transfer case, and that may blow eventually (they also fail sometimes). the smartest is to get a haldex controller, so you can choose when you want it to be permanent awd, and disengage it when you dont need it
We are Haldexrepairs in the UK, this Gen 5 haldex coupling is perfectly fine and has not failed mechanically. It is most likely to just have pump failure. The clutch is still totally good. But the most common part for coupling failure is actually the outer O ring seal on the piston you removed at 4:26 gets chewed up and leaks. That is pretty much the only thing that fails on them. Good luck! And we call it a Haldex even though its a Borgwarner Power Drive Systems G5 coupling due to licencing issues since Haldex AWD was sold to BorgW. Enjoy :)
Hello
Thanks for the additionnal information,
The o ring that you are talking about, do you know if we can buy it somewhere ?
can you get bearing kits for the differential section? i have had 2 come thro now with knackered output bearings on the drivers side. no-one has let me have a car long enough to ID the bearings. (in the UK too)
I had a outwaren pump too. I changed it to a new one and the system was totally fine. Now I have a new problem with my rear final drive. If im going between 60 to 100 kph, i get a really loud wummering noise from the back of my car. The noise is not on contact with any tirestuff or so. I think I have to replace all my bearings in the Haldex/Differential unit. Seems like that this is also a common issiu with the Haldex. I have 190000km on the clock an its a 2014 Golf 7 Variant 2.0TDI.
@@denisohbrienwas there any space, was there any play on the long cup that connects to the differential (left), any knocking noises when starting?
@@patrykkrol9433 I don't recall any play that shouldn't be there, was diagnosed with a stethoscope and running the car up to speed on a ramp, was a failed bearing for sure but no customer has yet been willing to let me have their car for a few weeks to strip and identify the bearings
Pump motor failed. Clean and reassemble with new motor and ride out. Those clutch friction discs aren’t too bad. Same type of multi plate wet clutch as motorcycles use. You can dress the steel plates by polishing them with some 400 grit paper glued to a surfacing plate. I have saved many dirt bike clutches this way that were much worse.
Exactly this! Everything was new inside so pump failed.. That simple
Could we infer that the pump's failure was caused by the black debris? As if the pump's internal weren't sealed properly? Because if that's the case, the failure seems inevitable and changing the pump should be part of routine maintenance.
Interestingly when I explained what is in an automatic transmission to my Uncle once the first thing he said was that it was just motorcycles that have them. This just shows you how easy it is to be ignorant or uneducated on these things. I am not even an expert on these things but I do at least know the way that they do work. Of course once when I started my 2006 Jetta and it took around 30 seconds for the idle to go down (normal for a modern vehicle) he thought hitting the accelerator would make it go down faster but he is so old fashioned he thought it had a carburetor ROFL!! He must not realize that for quite a long time no US vehicles have ever had one of those!! Whatever you do don't let him within 50 miles of your vehicle because he doesn't understand fluid specs and would probably ruin something.
I'm not a mechanic and would never go this deep on my own vehicle, but I love how you present things that I'll watch it anyways!
I had a loss of rear traction on my 2015 S3 and noticed the voltage to the motor was less than half of what it is supposed to be under full load. Replaced the motor with new fluid and it’s now working correctly, pushing 11.xx volts to the rear motor. Definitely a best first step if you’re dealing with this issue as the motors can be had for
can you see the voltage in VCDS ?
what voltage did you see before you had replaced it.
Had the same issue on my 2015 S3, noticed I had a fwd car, took it to the dealer and they replaced the pump under warranty. Happened at around 50k km (sorry, in Canada, not using miles). Car is now at 115k km, gonna service it soon.
that's awesome! Too bad it doesn't throw a fault when the voltage gets that low, would probably save a bunch of differentials from the scrapyard.
@@Lord_Verminaard what voltage are you supposed to see with the pump motor?
Charles....Check the pressure release valve at the top of the casing where the prop shaft flange meets the clutch pack housing....to the right of the HA1 casing mark at 2:11 to 2:37 in the video. See if it is clogged with debris...let us know...if you find anything there. Debris causing it to stick open = clutch slip and overworking the pump motor... then some type of failure. Also, after replacing a pump...the relearn procedure is omitted...leading to replacement of entire rear units...that would have otherwise returned to normal function.
This seems plausible, the amount of black stuff (which i'm assuming is graphite coming from the brushes) would indicate that pump has worked HARD.
@@GeFeldz I would assume the motors are brush less...but I may be wrong....
@@tmw2442 two wires to motor. Not brushless
@@tmw2442 why assume that?
This is how I fixed a slipping rear Haldex clutch on my Golf 7 R. Use VCDS to re calibrate the rear clutch pack. Saved me a lot of money.
NICE! How long has that held up?
@@HumbleMechanic Close to 3 years now. I recommend to do it every year or so. I did clean the pump motor thing and replaced the oil but front wheels were still spinning. The oil was dark though. After about 2 months I came across an article that said to do that and it worked. The clutches wear over time, so the calibration adjust the clamp force so the rear wheels get the correct amount of power again- I guess. I bought my car in 2014.
@@janterblanche9328do you have a link to the article? where to enter and calibrate in vcds?
A few notes and questions:
-Clutch pack is available from Audi, about 600-700eur, but this pack didn't look too bad. I've seen some pairs that are fused together.
-Pump is available from both borg warner and Audi, there are also service kits around for much less. Generally the brushes go bad, the pump can be tested with 12V.
-The pump continuously runs when you start the car. Theres also a small pump / actuator inside the control unit with a plunger blocking/allowing the oil to flow and this is what controls AWD, probably that has failed as well.
-You are correct, Audi europe service manual doesn't have a rebuild guide. But I have a Audi USA PDF that has rebuild instructions. There are no measurements for putting the haldex together but there are extensive measurements on the diff-haldex side, otherwise there will be noise when running.
Now the questions:
-Can you mix and match parts from two broken haldex/diff units? Eg clutch and plate pairs?
-Especially, can you mix and match diff and haldex halfs? My mechanic says crown wheel and pinion are "married" with each other and you can't match them, it will be noisy.
I have a broken awd that no longer works on my Audi TT mk1, AWD works on the lift but on the ground the rear wheels don't engage... Haldex fluid was pitch black last time I checked it.
Hello, could you send me this DPF file please? It will help me a lot.
It was quite interesting to see the progression from the Mk 4's Haldex to this Haldex-type Not-A-Haldex-because-Borg-Warner-makes-it system. I was curious if the glitter was ferrous or non-ferrous as that might narrow down its origin. Also, I wonder if the pump/screen was clogged with metal debris prior to going into the shop. In any case, it seems like the pump got sad, which made the motor brushes get real spicy, hence the lovely black powder that dumped out of its housing.
Thank you for showing this. Got 3rd gen Haldex on my Volvo XC70 and can’t get it to work for a year now: (1) DEM was corroded, got replaced and re-programmed - didn’t help, (2) Soleniod was replaced - didn’t help, (3) Oil pump was replaced - didn’t help, (4) Oil pressure sensor was replaced - didn’t help…all of this time diagnostics is showing low oil pressure…I guess it’s time to open it up and check those rings…
The lack of serviceable vehicle components and repair parts is shameful. These components were assembled and should be readily disassembled for a rebuild. The right to repair laws that are being considered, which industry is vigorously opposing, may change the repair industry, but it will be slow in coming. Example, Porsche will not rebuild a failed PDK, $20K for a replacement and they will not make parts available if you wanted to rebuild one, so your point on keeping up with the maintenance or shortening the intervals when used in severe conditions is spot on. Only problem is getting owners to actually do it. As usual, great video.
This is the auto industry. Its sad that so much is not serviceable.
I've been considering getting a smaller car but I still want awd. My current car has quattro (torsen) and never really requires any service to that system so it's helpful to see how one of these haldex based systems work and what to expect. Thanks!
320.000 km & 31 years of use of my Passat Syncro g60 @ 200 ABT hp, no engine repairs, no VCT Syncro malfunctions!
Very nice work, congratulations!
The Syncro Heresy
Yeah, things weren't made to fail back then.
I don't believe these failures that happen on new cars are unintentional, just can't believe it.
Many haldex systems fail at 50k km, which is very very low. I doubt they don't test their cars before launching them cause otherwise they would see the failure quite easily.
My untuned 2016 MK7 Golf R w DSG had a similar failure at 30,000 miles where my car became FWD only (complete with FWD burnouts when launching the car). Unlike your failure, my dealer said they found a bunch of clutch material in the motor filter as the friction material had disintegrated away from the rings prematurely. I was told that the clutch packs weren't fully compatible with the Haldex, erm, "clutch" fluid. The entire rear diff assembly was replaced under warranty. The outgoing unit was "Rev D" found in 2015 and early 2016 DSG models, and the replacement was Rev G or H.
Just wanted to help out since I had this issue. Like mentioned (and thank you again HumbleMechanic) it could be the pump, but it can also be the haldex controller which was my problem. Though if your haldex clutch packs are bad you can replace them from Powerzone in Europe. I'm sure they'd carry the clutch packs other places as well. Hope this helps someone.
Do you have any links or just the company, google finds nothing.
I can't see why VW/Audi says this isn't a serviceable unit, Its surprisingly simple and uses the same exact clutch style/design as a the DSG transmissions AND that pretty much every wet-clutch driven motorcycle has ever used but just with an electric motor to actuate it!!
And the price on the actuation motor is totally absurd too!
Awesome stuff as always dude, This was cool as heck to see and it's awesome to see how it works
Great video! Cool to see how it all goes together. Fixed my 2016 R with slipping issues at 40k with replacing the pump and new fluid. Seems like the pumps themselves are causing more issues than the clutch units themselves. Service mine every 20k or so with no issues since. Look forward to the DSG breakdown 💪
How you replace the pump if it isn't serviceable??
@@rkan2 it is servicable, you can change the haldex fluid and clean the filter on the pump. If the pump is actually broken, you can also just put a new one on.
I'm surprised that unit is largely serviceable, nothing seemed to be overly difficult to repair/replace.
which is shocking haha, silly vws
I don't think it is serviceable, I don't think you can buy the parts to repair it, other than the motor?
@@whizzo94 That's the issue VW made a conscious choice to make the parts unavailable.
VW Group say that the HALDEX5 system fluid needs changing at 40k miles here in the UK. I tend to do mine at half that mileage (20k). Thanks for showing us the inner working on that unit.
I'm kind of surprised this isn't serviceable, it's just a lighter version of a wet clutch pack that can be found in most tractors for a whole number of applications.
I've had no trouble getting an overhaul kit for the under/over transmission in a 1967 Cockshutt 1750 so it seems kind of ridiculous to me that it's easier to get parts for a 55 year old tractor than it is to even try to get parts to overhaul the AWD on cars that are barely even 15 years old and only seems to need a clutch and pump.
Being a vw tech this is so interesting to see how the cars we love and work on come apart and work
I would buy you a beer or beerzzz if I could. Your vids have helped me billions. 👍
THANK YOU
Awesome video thank you for that. I'll be servicing my haldex on my S3 next week as its at 30k km's now and your video on that is bloody awesome too.
A case for 'right to repair'. New clutch pack, motor and fluid looks to be the fix.
in this case, just the motor IMO.
That clutch pack wasn't even worn... It's completely servicable.
My mates old Superb 4x4 with the CJX R motor had this with 90k on the clock and was much worse. We re-assembled, changed the filter head on the pump and filled it and sent it. Car went another 40k in his ownership til he sold it. Zero issues.
Ford also used the Haldex system on the mk1 Kuga ( escape in the US) they were known to fail. Always caused by not having the oil changed. The small gauze filter blocks and kills the pump. Ford initially said it wasn’t a service item. However the systems were also used on Volvo cars and Landrover Freelanders. In these applications it was recommended to change the oil and clean the gauze at least every 30k miles. This helped prevent failure. My mk1 Kuga, which I still have suffered a failure at around 40k miles. I replaced the pump with an eBay item. It cost around £230. I have had the oil and filter changed every year since and have had no more problems. Service kits are available on eBay which includes a new filter and a litre of oil for around £60.
I definitely deep dive.
I'm a (the)fleet mechanic for a tree and Landscape company, theres a lot of vehicles, and equipment. I'm currently rebuilding the fuel injection pump for our 1996 kubota excavator. Lots of yik...but I love it.
My golf (that I just berid myself of) was bought when I was still in NC, and, I had a sneaking suspicion the previous owner had an accident involving the ds front.. that became brutally apparent once I moved up to Massachusetts. 3 full suspension rebuilds, swaybar bushings, and it would kick it all out of wack within a year or so.
Not to mention the engine mounts got destroyed twice up here.. thats all parts tho..
Great video mate. Nice tear down description. Regards from the UK 🇬🇧
Thank you for the complete explanation humble mechanic I think you are one of the best channels in TH-cam for VW cars. I just bought a new arteon formotion and you just put the fear of God in me regarding this units. It is really scary to know that a little bit of metal could cause such a complex units to fail.
It’s a hydrostatic pump with pistons on a ramp like in a lawn tractor transmission. For the pump to make pressure it needs super tight piston to bore clearance. Any wear lowers pump pressure letting the clutches slip. That’s why there is was so much brush carbon in the case. Pump is worn out.
That clutch pack looks pretty much like a motorcycle clutch. In a motorcycle, the engine, the transmission and the clutch are, in most cases, lubricated by the same oil. Glitter in the oil is normal and I see it at every oil drain.
Great video. I have a tiguan 4 motion. I hope that I remember to change the both types of oil in due time
Hopefully the aftermarket will come up with a clutch replacement kit...eventually to keep the Rs on the road, well into the future...
A couple of Ex VAG mechanics have independently of each other said to me that most of the time on the 5 its the pump that fails and the metal is from inside the pump. One of them said unless you never service it and kick the arse out of it the diffs last for ever. Both said the pumps are complete shite. A quick polish of the clutch plates on this one and a new pump and seals and she’ll be good to go.
Excellent vid on the the Haldex really great job explaining it also ..Thanks
Love these tear down vids. Just a quick request: Are you able to do a feature on the VW/Audi Twin charged 1.4 Engine? It'd be a really cool insight into what was a pretty unique concept for a mainstream drivetrain. Cheers
I’d have to get one from overseas we never got that enonge
@@HumbleMechanic we don't get a lot of cool enonges
@@cumbob you could probably source one using Google or one of the other search enonges
IM thinking those metal shavings got between the clutches and caused them to drag tripping the computer to sense movement when it should not have any. Not serviceable totally sucks. But a day and the life of newer VWs.
Wow! I've always wanted to see how it actually worked. Thanks!
Great to see the guts on this unit. Thanks for that. With luck, this will be the only time I "get" to see it. Thanks!
thanks for the video, I have been doing research on doing AWD conversion on a 2013 A3. I have been trying to find where to vent tubes lead to. How do I vent them
Will you posting a video soon on how to reassemble and set backlash on these?
I have a 2008 S3 8P. This is the 2nd Haldex failing on my car. The last failure made rear wheels to lockup completely while going at 160km/h on Autobahn.
I was on the left lane, had to pull to right in under 100 meters. Otherwise all the cars at the back crash from behind. Was lucky, I was able to save the car from a crash.
But it gives no warning on dash, no whining sound of gears, no jerkiness. Everything seems fine, then rear wheels mechanically lock up.
If it happened while I was turning at high speed, it would spin or crash at the hands of the most experienced racing driver. Nothing can disengage rear wheels. We had the same lockup in another 2018 model S3 too. I think the design required to be changed. In case of a failure, it shouldn't mechanically lock the wheels.
But it happened 2 times on a 8P car, once in a 8V car. I think it may have killed many people, but it would be very hard to explain what happened after a catastrophic car crash, that your rear wheels locked up. And if the driver is living, will tell you this. But it may be hard to prove it in the court.
I think Borgwarner needs to take these units back. Change the design with a safe unit. May cost billions though.
I can smell that motor from my house 😂
Very cool to see this teardown. The mechanical side seems pretty robust.
LOL!!! yeah this is a weird one. Id doesn't seem like that little of an issue should cause no AWD.
really interesting video, ive taken apart a few motorcycle clutches and transmissions before and this is almost exactly the same setup as some of those clutches, nice to fill in the blanks when it comes to car drivetrains
manteniment?? video plis!! tanks bro
Ewwwww..... that electric motor!!!
Any chance that replacing the pump's motor would've been enough to bring that Haldex back to life, considering the underwhelming amount of metal grinds in the oil and clutch components?
Yep, would have changed the now worthless box to one worth $2k
Great video! Really need how to videos on diff / haldex servicing....Audi S5 (B8).
Yup ford tech and had a very common ptu failure that was making lots of noise and binding that would usually have windowed the case so I had to rip it apart to see how bad it was. Even though it had a core, I found al.lat nothing left of the pinion gear or ring gear. It smelt sooo bad the fire dept almost got called for a gas leak smell lmao!
Great video humble as usual but can’t you point me in the right direction on what’s a good solution to clean the outside of the haldex, bought a used one and it’s full of axel grease and crude lol
My rear diff blew up at 70mph with a violent jolt (one of the tapered roller bearings obliterated itself and cracked the diff open as it did so), very soon after my Haldex oil was changed. Working theory is the specialist garage may have drained the diff accidentally (there's even a TSB about this very thing, so it must not be uncommon), given the tone sounded different after the service. I even took it back to them before it blew saying it sounded wrong, but they sent me on my way.
I don't like your face. But I respect your knowledge on the euro repair. Half the time I learn something new by listening to you. Great information Always 👍
Lol I wonder why you had to include the part about my face.
@@HumbleMechanic I don't like beards especially in the summer here in Texas. I do learn alot from you though. Great Chanel
Please do an 02s teardown and rebuild , gearbox from a Audi A3 8p FSI non turbo or 1.8t ,or golf 5,jetta 5 fsi non turbo
I repair these differentials, replacing all four bearings and four oil seals and thoroughly flush each part as well as the housing, from the inside. And that's not counting the Haldex clutch where there's also one ball bearing and one oil seal. If anyone is interested, please feel free to contact me.
Seems typical, the physical parts are still fine but the electrical component fails and/or malfunctions. Wonder if there is a way to just permanently lock the input shaft to the output? Very cool to see the inside of one of these!
Great job, I just got an Audi S3 8p, this really helps me out
Seems like as long as someone sells replacement clutch packs, it shouldn't be a difficult rebuild. None of the gears or rest of it seemed to have any real wear or damage. Of course if no one sells those discs then your sol. I figure there is probably a minimum thickness the stack needs to be as well so if they are worn to the point that the stack isn't tall enough even cleaning and sanding the steels won't get it running again.
Good vid! It does seem in this case the pump motor is the cause of the failure. I've seen this type of clutch packs in a fishing boat gearbox, where it locked in gear. It was caused by the clutch plates on the input shaft wearing notches in the spline, causing the plates to lock in place so they couldn't disengage not the ideal situation in a boat!
My sister 2015 a3 2.0t quatro is not powering the rear weels. Should i start with replacing the motor first? Fluid looks good.
How does wheel size effect this unit? On Subaru's, if the front tires are worn and the rear tires are new, the computer interprets this as front axle slippage and will engage the clutch [partially] in order to try to reduce front axle speed. This leads to premature failure of the rear axle clutch pack.....
Thanks for the video! I am going to be getting a golf R soon! And this helps 🤘
You always post videos as I’m having similar problems! Great video as always so helpful and yes the curiosity does normally get to me! Haha
Recently ran into this exact issue in our repair shop (albeit our clutch unit had obvious clutch pack pieces in the oil). Unfortunately, I had to get into a heated argument with my colleague (VAG tech of 12 years) who was absolutely convinced that the AWD clutch pack was the exact same as a mechatronic limited slip diff. Needless to say, our relationship has become slightly soured...
Pos me on this VW unit. It appears that it would be possible to add a mechanical shaft directly to the rear and do away with the clutch mecha?
If not, why not? TIA my brother!
As a mechanic i have never seen a failed Haldex, only clogged filter on the pump. The common failure on these gen 5 rear diffs are the right outer bearing. Have changed so many diffs because of failed bearings. Now i have started to take the diffs apart and change the bearings. I did see vw had a revisioned part after 2018, so maybe that newer diff don't have bearing issues.
I have the rear diff out of my 2017 VW Alltrack right now. I'm going to swap the bearings instead of buying a new one. Where and how did you source the bearings?
@@compr3ssion 4x4parte have everything you need
Hey Charles,
Enjoyed the autopsy!
Two questions. How much hp/tq can one of those units handle?
Is there a high performance aftermarket for that unit?
Thanks.
Question: If this unit came from from a shop that did some prelim trouble shooting, wouldn't they have drained the fluids themselves? This implies that some of the loose stuff would have been drained out and lost for this tear down.
Second: What was the carbon looking stuff poured out of the motor housing? Seems the options are ground up brush material or the motor windings overheated enough to bake the insulation off the windings. Seems like the only way to grind up the brushes would be to have something come loose that allowed the brushes to continue to make contact with the commutator, allowing the motor to keep spinning, until there was no longer enough material to allow sufficient contact.
Can these units be bought rebuilt? This is just like a transmission and differential on any other car. I can't see why these units would not be rebuildable
If you can round up parts I’d assume so. I think finding new parts would be the trickiest part
Maybe if you replace the pump clean everything and the clean the clutches in think it would be fine, would be great to see though
Great video, as expected. Questions... {a} Can/should one throw a LSD in the gearbox you dissected (during a total upgrade)? {b} The pump in the clean side failed. Wouldn't/mightn't that have accounted for the metal in the clutch pack?
thanks for this video Charles ! I always wondered how this stuff works and now I know .. thanks to you !
It might be considered non-serviceable, but when enough people need a rebuild and it is economical, someone will invent a rebuild kit.
The DCT found in the Mitsubishi Evo X was meant to not be serviceable. In early Evo X DCT models, people just had to pay $10,000 for a whole DCT. Mitsubishi called it the TC:SST.
This is interesting stuff. I aspire to own and Evo X. Their AWD problem is often having the ACD pump fail. It usually isn't the whole transfer case or diff. I think an ACD pump is $3000.
The transfer case of the AWD Ford Taurus doesn't cost nearly as much as the VW Haldex. They just sell brand new ones because of it.
The upcoming Toyota Corolla GR is interesting to me. If it can be almost as good as other Toyota Corolla variants, it will provide a lot of fun without costing so much in repair bills, when compared to other fun cars.
Yeah this doesn't even look that bad? Seems like if the motor were replaced it might work ok again though ideally you'd want to replace the clutchpack...which probably isn't easy to get separately given the "replace the unit" repair protocol. 5th gens do seem a good bit more problematic than the 4th gen units, and interestingly the 4th gen units have a real filter, while the 5th does not. Not sure which engineer(s) decided they don't need a filter in the system, but that wasn't a good move.
Are their measuring blocks for the fluid pressures?
What I saw common too, the module failing with water damage!
Oh dang! I haven't seen that happen. but based on that modules location, id believe it.
@@HumbleMechanic yeah, maybe because we are in ol great Eastern of Canada!🤣
@@HumbleMechanic I have refered a guy in UK to some peoples, for remanufactured module!
@@jessytremblay3867 That would be us! Corrosion in these Haldex controllers is mega big problem depending on your geographic location. Scotland is one of the hardest climates on them.
I feel like Gen2 and Gen4 Haldex have much lesser problems because they have a separate fluid filter traps all friction discs' debris before it get into the motor.
Its sad this is not a rebuildable part it seems so straightforward in its assembly eve more so than some automatic transmissions. Is it just that it is such a new design or something else? I know we didn't see the true cause of failure for the particles the pump looks like brush ware but can't see that going into the main area but hmmm. Or was it just you did such a great job showing us the disassembly 👊👊👊👊👊
hello friend, is it possible to eliminate the friction discs and lock the haldex with soldering or something like that?
I had a mishap when changing the haldex fluid. I unbolted the wrong bolts to pull out the pump and loosened the ground haldex wire by mistake from the screw and did not ground it back properly. After the fluid change started hearing rear clunking at low speed turns. And vibrating when launching. Ended up purchasing new pump that fixed the clunking but vibration on a launch stil persisted. 10 months later vibrating on launch lessened but still present depending how hard I launch. Fml anyway but still drives and pulls.
Great video, thanks Charles.
Would it be a good idea for high powered applications to just weld the input shaft directly to the diff input and delete the motorised clutchpack alltogether ?
It's weird that in Canada (where the awd system is being used a lot half of the year), the schedule maintenance says only a awd system fluid change is required every 45k KM. I called the dealer and asked about maintenance on the actual "haldex" pump, they said that unbolting the pump for a clean up (clean or change the mesh) would void the warranty of the unit and they also never do it. They are saying it's good for the lifetime of the vehicle with just fluid changes. My understanding is that it's different for US cars? It's part of the maintenance schedule the haldex pump cleanup?
So did you determine what causes the metal on the clutches, and where it comes from?
This is the gen 5 Haldex (Borgwarner). I think you dont see a lot of problems on gen4 haldex like on a Golf R MK6 ! Do you think Gen 4 Haldex are better unit ?
*me worried af because I just picked up a tuned 2015 S3 with no AWD working 😅☠️
New pump arrives Monday and I hope to goodness that's the issue. Car is less than two weeks ownership 😮
So how does it control the level of clutch slip? 😮
Does it just pump oil into the clutch housing to press the disks together and controlls it via how much oil pressure there is?
Educational, Charles! Thanks man!✌️
You boys got any videos on how to remove the haldex from the car? Thanks in advance 🥳
No, it's pretty straight forward, 4 housing bolts, the axle, and one 6mm Allen DEEP in the axle cup.
@HumbleMechanic thanks love your videos keep up the good work 🥳
Haldex is a subsidiary of BorgWarner. BW is stamped on the case, but it's still Haldex tech.
Plus no one searches, "the VW Borg Warner AWD system" HAHA
Great video! Of course, as soon as I sell my S3 we get some S3 content. :)
Thanks for your videos they deffo have helped me modifie and maintain my golf R 7.5 wagon 👍 I have an issue with my haldex so I followed your haldex service video, fitted a néw pump, after approx 30 mins of hard driving, the traction light flickers and I'm getting front wheel spin, car cuts power when full traction is on, major fron wheel spin when traction is in sport or long press off, any ideas what could be causing this as I have no fault codes?
Thanks in advance 👍
Darren
I've never owned a VW with the Haldex/similar system. I wonder if there is some kind of modification/bypass to reliably make this system permanent AWD. If there was, I would consider a R32 golf in the future. For now, I'll stick with my B5 S4 Quattro full mechanical drivetrain.
PRODIGY HumbleMechanic
Loved it From the start to finish
Thank you very much HumbleMechanic
Take care and have a great day HumbleMechanic
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
this is not the torque vectoring version right?
Correct. This is the old school AWD. I would love to get my hands on a TS diff. but not if its mine exploding HAHAH
The fancy one works the same, but instead of one clutch pack on the input shaft, it has two - one on each output shaft, but same principle, double the repair cost lol.
Believe it or not I have seen a couple of these diffs assembled together a complete rear end on a subframe with brakes, shocks, springs, axles and stuff a couple of days ago. Kind of mixed bag of emotions to see one of these diffs disassembled due to failure.
Can you replace the clutches to make the unit work again
can you lock the clutch pack to have 4wd all the time in the event a faulty clutch pack
Super interesting! Thanks so much for explaining this so well!
My wife’s A3 Quattro 40k miles decided to be FWD last winter, im pretty sure this is a big problem, they need to sell a clutch and pump kit
Hello, on my golf 7r defferential cogwheels broken completely... Is it possible becasue the mechanic used wrong oil in it or its common problem ??
Can you not replace the clutches on the bergwarner ?