Well, I didn't use an angle grinder, but your example of cutting the extender ring was the take-away genius I gleaned from this video. THANK YOU! My bathroom floor (old, cement, ground level) is remarkably uneven. Like, visibly uneven! ??? Using scissors to make the extender compensate for the wonky floor allowed me to get a perfect, tight, level fit on my toilet! I'm so dang proud of myself! Thanks for planting the idea that helped me solve the problem!
So glad you did this video. Per the instructions: Use gasket as is if flange is flush with the floor. Not even close! Had to cut off 2/3 of the gasket to get the toilet to even approach touching the floor.
I spent years fighting this.... until I came up with this idea a year or two ago. SO common sense, so I decided to share it. LOL. Glad it was able to help you out.
Thanks for this video! I just did this. My flange was flush to the floor. Even after cutting the spacer in half the toilet still wouldn't sit on the floor. It might have worked but I didn't want to crack my flange - -that spacer is just too stiff. I ended up stacking two seals. Cheers!
I had the same issue yesterday when I installed out new toilet. I just didn't use the spacer and see how it goes. I don't ever seal the toilet with caulk so I should be abler to see if there is water leaking - so far - so good. I kept the spacer so if I need it - I have it and will attempt to cut in something that resembles a straight line.. :P
The Fernco waxless toilet seals are the best option IMO. You know without a doubt that you are sealed to the toilet and you will never have a leak. I have run into two situations where the didn't work though, one where the drain immediately curved (where this wouldn't work either) and another where I had ot install an inch extender and that made the inner diameter too narrow. Has worked amazingly in every other install.
Good to hear. When I install heated floors, I always use this rubber ring so the off chance the heat slowly melts the wax never happens. There’s nothing wrong with this type of seal. I personally moved on from wax. It’s messy and old school.
@@CookieZ3353 Wax is messy and a one time install. If you have to redo the toilet or pick it up again, you need a new wax ring. Also, if you have radiant heat in your floor, the heat can melt the wax. That's why I like the non wax rings.
Nice! Heard that you can also use 2 flexible ones (blue) without the extender (gray/black) for the situation. That will double the cost compared to your solution but without the trouble of cutting the extender.
Welll... appreciate you sharing your techniques but i didnt have to cut mine. No sir, it wasnt sitting flush to floor, had quarter inch gap in the back, so I tightened down the bolts and she's flat
Being a plumber by trade the only thing that levels a toilet is a flat floor. Good tile job etc. Usually I need to shim and calk a toilet to keep it from wobbling.
I’ve been installing these for over 7 years with zero failure rate. If the flange is not properly set and off kilter I can see this rubber ring being an issue.
This is the same idea i had but i tried it with out the spacer and it ses to work no leaks should i take it off and cut the spacer down and do it again?
@@jasonhorn5976 Thanks for the reply, seems like the spacer isn't needed for flush mounted flanges. So far so good gonna test for a few more days before caulking.
You do realize the toilet flange is supposed to be ON TOP OF the finished floor, not flush with it. The seal (this one which I have used and like or wax which is only a pain if you have to pull the toilet) is ONLY for preventing sewer gas as the horn of the toilet is supposed to sit inside the toilet flange because it is supposed to be mounted on top of the finished floor. A properly installed toilet flange will leave very little space between it and horn of the toilet. They make stackable extender rings and the like too as you need solid material above the finished floor for the horn of the toilet to sit into it - wax rings and rubber rings serving as extenders is not reliable over time especially if you have a wood subfloor as they always have some flexibility and bounce.
I realize a lot of things, like, a cast iron flange in concrete. If you want to come by, hammer out the concrete, replace the cast and raise the flange up 1.5” that would be awesome. I’m not sure a 1000 dollar change order to pick up the flange 1.5” would go well with my client. 😂. Did you realize that!?😬. That’s why they make the black extension. This is not a new construction project. I would love to work in your perfect world of remodeling. It sounds really nice.
@@TodayIWorkOn Just use stackable extender rings (screwed in) BEFORE using the better than wax ring and problem solved for less than $10. The foam gaskets are NOT to used as a pipe extension and will not last over time. Just saying...
are you sure about that. I just ripped up my toilet at my that I installed 10 years ago, with an extender and she was Gucci. I love learning, but I always want fact based evidence on statements. The extender is included for a reason. I don’t have to respond to these comments, but I do because I like the people that read these comments to have substance and fact behind the statements made. If you can link me some literature and back up what you are saying, it would be great.
@@TodayIWorkOn This product has barely been out for 10 years so I doubt this is true. The toilet flange (or closet flange) is supposed to be installed ON TOP OF the finished floor and not level with or below it. That's a fact. 95% of the problems are from not doing this. To reiterate, I use this product but I make sure the flange is set to be on top of the finished floor height before proceeding. Stacking the foam rings, while ok in the instructions is not what should be done. Read up. The horn of the toilet is to set inside the flange and the seal (wax ring or this product) is only there to prevent sewer gas, it is NOT to act as an extension of the flange or pipe. You must be doing work without permits or something. I actually work with professional engineers, architects and trades not people that do substandard work or who cut corners for a quick buck. That's just sad.
Good thing I’m retired building my 10,000 sqft home for my family. 😂. In my videos, I always express how I work on something. There’s always more than one way to skin a cat. If the engineers at fluid master say the extra flange can be used, I’m going to use it. It’s fluid master. They literally own the toilet market with their engineered products. Stop banging your head against a wall just because I did a video on a different way(per fluid master directions) on how to install these no wax rings. The seal is still solid. They don’t leak. They sell thousands and thousands of this product every day. If you scroll though the comments in this video you will notice the lack of horror stories about them leaking. People say they will leak in time, but the product has been out for a while now and I have not experienced a failure or heard about one. 🤷.
So we don’t confuse anyone here, I just reread the directions for the 89th time and in step 5a, 5b, and 5c. I don’t see what you are inferring. Are you referring which step?
@@TodayIWorkOn yeah it was good for a couple months and just now started again. My floor I my bathroom is pretty bad though. I’m just gonna try her again until I can work on what’s probably the real problem. Thanks 👍
@TodayIWorkOn I've used these before and have not had success, especially in older homes where the wooden floor was out of level. At least when it starts to leak, it will be on concrete and not cause too much damage.
@@joshsoorlin579correct. But, a lot of times, like this example, adding the extra seal made the toilet too high and the toilet will rock off the seal. Once you experience it, you will understand this video.
I would never ever throw in a rubber gasket than a wax ring because wax is more of a lubricant and makes a better seal meanwhile rubber will break down and rot eventually causing a leak and it only lasts for several years meanwhile Wax can last for decades
Obviously it does, but I don't understand how this can seal out the water when flushing. I understand that a toilet flushing is not high pressure, but still, I don't get it 🤔
its rubber, which naturally is something that seals. Think about washers all over the world that are compressed a little bit. This is the same theory, where the foam acts as the driving force up on to the toilet ring and creates a seal. The only way the seal can break is a breakdown on the foam, but I'm assuming that's not going to fail since it was engineered for a toilet.
The rubber needs to hit the bottom of the toilet or it will leak. There needs to be some sort of compression going on to eliminate a leak. Good luck with it!
Thanks, Good tip if needed. Q- How tight did you tighten the nuts? If you calk bottom 1- leak wont be detected until much later AFTER the SEWER smell makes its presence. Ive heard from plumbers not to calk for these very reasons and it was only due to my not calkibg I just noticed the leak last night ( due to me rocking on it after a knee replacement making it difficult to rise from it straight out) But thanks for sharing.!👍
Caulk 100%, but leave the back uncaulked. It's cleaner and stronger of a hold. The nuts on the toilet flange are not what holds the toilet in place, it's the caulk. Back in the day plumbers used to mix plaster of Paris under a toilet to set it.
Can't you simply screw it down hard enough so it compresses and the toilet is flat? Wouldn't that ensure a very tight seal? I don't have experience with this, it's an honest question
Nope. What usually happens is you pull the flange and bend it. The foam is so dense the small bolts do not have the strength to pull the toilet down. You can even sit on the toilet with a flange higher than it should be and the toilet will rock like a seesaw. You can also use a utility blade to cut the excess foam material if you don’t have a grinder. Makes sure you use a sharp blade and be careful you don’t cut your fingers.
No because if you tighten it to tight it'll Crack the porcelain toilet. Then you would have replace the entire toilet. You never want to tighten down a toilet to tight. Just maybe a few turns once it's hand tight.
Well my flange is steel .. i yanked out the nails holding it down and put in coarse threaded screws. I also used bigger washers on the hold down bolts for wider pressure area on the procelain. It compressed the foam spacer and the toilet is flat on ground and steady as a rock.
I battled with this product along with the red Korky wax free version for days. Both were leaking. I really didn't want to use the messy wax ring, but it solved my problem. I was tryiing to squash down on the toilet but it just sat too high and rocked like a see saw. I really wanted the wax free setup, but in the end, the wax ring solved my problems. Now that I watched your method of cutting the thicker spacer, I may have done it. Too late now, I'm not going back in. I just don't understand why they would sell a product that instantly needs modification.
Code says flange sits on top of finished floor, which means the blue part of the no wax ring will work perfectly. The issue is, in a lot of cases, it’s way lower. That’s why we have the added black extension piece.
I would have just used a sharp utility knife to cut that. And probably just wax... for the seal... So you dont have to cut stuff. And stuff. You almost cut your fingers off man
Not many people picked up how dangerous it was the way he cut the spacer. Obviously not a professional and I hope he doesnt get people hurt and cause more leaking toilets !
He meant well. But I agree... super dangerous and there are obviously people out there that would try that. I've been a plumber for a long time and never used that product. And now that I've watched this... I never will.
@@TodayIWorkOn $20.00 for two packs is a lot faster and less money than buying the cutter you had to use. Plus the two blue seals fit perfectly. I had the same problem, and using two worked great.
@@truthseekerKJV if you don’t own an angle grinder, then cut it with a knife. $10 more is not easier, you had to work 30 minutes to an hour to earn that in your paycheck. And it takes one minute to cut.
I like no cutting , I stopped the video at 2:59. ..at least for now because once again they can't tell me which is better a wax ring or a rubber seal??????????????
Don't use Fluidmaster's "Better Than Wax" product. That was my choice as well for a toilet that began to leak at the floor. Three years or so after installing this product, it began to leak again. When I removed the toilet, I discovered that the plastic that this product is made of had hardened and deteriorated, allowing the leak. Many types of plastic deteriorate over time. I sensibly assumed that Fluidmaster would have used a plastic that would endure. They don't; the product is garbage.
Been installing them for over 6 years and I’ve never had a failure. If I were you I would contact Fluidmaster and send it back to them to investigate to see what exactly happened to the rubber.
I always appreciate all comments, the ones that mock me the most, but, please don’t use words that don’t make sense to make fun of me. That’s not entertaining… 😔 hack•er-y' hack-er.y l'hakerē | noun informal the action or practice of gaining unauthorized access to data in a system or computer: a gambler won $32 million at a casino, thanks to a little network hackery carried out by accomplices. • quick or rough programming: since there is no proper APl, l used some good old-fashioned hackery to get the job done. hack•er •y hack-ery | 'hakerē | noun unoriginal writing, especially journalism, of substandard quality: every article is a piece of political hackery.
Please never do what this guy is doing... Extremely dangerous holding the grinder so close to bare hands. No face shield being used... not to mention the obvious that you are altering a product, which totally voids any type of warranty you have for it not working. The neoprene is meant to compress down. You didnt need to cut it...
@@TodayIWorkOn oh sorry!!! Mr knucklehead. But the video is for novices also, and it was super crazy dangerous! I'm glad you still have 11 knuckles!!!😉
FREE TIP COURTESY OF FILM SCHOOL: Next time use a ladder and a clamp ( improvise with a bungee cord) Your lighting source should be above YOU. Unless you do that an "EVIL" shadow is cast upon your face! Since this is an instructional video AND NOT a horror flick it does matter.
Yeah I'll just stick with the wax ring . I'm not about to do all this. I've never had any problems with wax rings and they've lasted a long time for me so...
I hope people DONT take his advise. 99.99 % of toilets have wax seals and never have a problem. If you have a problem with a wax seal its he installation not the wax seal. Cutting the extender as he did was a bad idea and cutting it with a grinder aimed at his hand shows his lack of knowledge ! I do this for a living and am speaking from experience !
Please tell me how much experience do you have with this particular rubber ring. I’m interested to know. The issue with this system is the toilet usually floats off the floor because the rubber can’t compress as much as it should, like in this instance. Wax rings don’t work well with radiant heat, which is what I have here in this floor. Since I like to make sure my clients have toasty feet, I do not use wax for the simple reason. You need to be 12+ inches away from the ring with your heating element. Lastly, if you are aware rubber is not going to destroy a metal cut off blade 🤣. Are you sure you do this for a living?
Whew. This post feels intense with passion. Are you a mechanical engineer? I’d love to hear the engineering behind your post. Did you know wax is a one time install? Once you move the toilet it or rock it, the wax gets disturbed and loses its initial water tightness.
Well, I didn't use an angle grinder, but your example of cutting the extender ring was the take-away genius I gleaned from this video. THANK YOU! My bathroom floor (old, cement, ground level) is remarkably uneven. Like, visibly uneven! ??? Using scissors to make the extender compensate for the wonky floor allowed me to get a perfect, tight, level fit on my toilet! I'm so dang proud of myself! Thanks for planting the idea that helped me solve the problem!
So glad you did this video. Per the instructions: Use gasket as is if flange is flush with the floor. Not even close! Had to cut off 2/3 of the gasket to get the toilet to even approach touching the floor.
I spent years fighting this.... until I came up with this idea a year or two ago. SO common sense, so I decided to share it. LOL. Glad it was able to help you out.
I’ve been rocking on my toilet trying to figure this seal out. This is just what I was looking for. Thank you
Thanks for this video! I just did this. My flange was flush to the floor. Even after cutting the spacer in half the toilet still wouldn't sit on the floor. It might have worked but I didn't want to crack my flange - -that spacer is just too stiff. I ended up stacking two seals. Cheers!
If your flange is flush with the floor1Fluidmaster should suffice. That is how it How the fluid master is designed.
I have used this seal for both of my toilets and it’s been solid for 7 years now.
I had the same issue yesterday when I installed out new toilet. I just didn't use the spacer and see how it goes. I don't ever seal the toilet with caulk so I should be abler to see if there is water leaking - so far - so good. I kept the spacer so if I need it - I have it and will attempt to cut in something that resembles a straight line.. :P
Yup. Hope you have a good seal, if not you know what to do. 😬
you may notice some smell, in my case that why i get ... so thinking to double it with blue
The Fernco waxless toilet seals are the best option IMO. You know without a doubt that you are sealed to the toilet and you will never have a leak. I have run into two situations where the didn't work though, one where the drain immediately curved (where this wouldn't work either) and another where I had ot install an inch extender and that made the inner diameter too narrow. Has worked amazingly in every other install.
I’ll take a look into that.
I have never had a wax ring fail with at least a dozen toilets installed over the years.
Cheers
Good to hear. When I install heated floors, I always use this rubber ring so the off chance the heat slowly melts the wax never happens. There’s nothing wrong with this type of seal. I personally moved on from wax. It’s messy and old school.
Mr. Johnny Van-Husani said your condoms always fail.
Yes, why go to the trouble of cutting that black extender when the wax is the perfect fit. Cheers.
@@CookieZ3353 Wax is messy and a one time install. If you have to redo the toilet or pick it up again, you need a new wax ring. Also, if you have radiant heat in your floor, the heat can melt the wax. That's why I like the non wax rings.
I'm 66 and have to take the easy route with the wax ring.
Nice! Heard that you can also use 2 flexible ones (blue) without the extender (gray/black) for the situation. That will double the cost compared to your solution but without the trouble of cutting the extender.
You can really use any cutter, even a box blade would work. I would not spend double on it.
@@TodayIWorkOnive always skip the extra foam if the flange is even with the floor , even though they advise you to use it.
I put one in with the regular ring on last night with a heavy single piece toilet and it works fine. Didn't even caulk the toilet base.
Very glad to hear!
I was looking at the one I bought and I think you can carefully peal off the thicker foam ring and swap them....maybe.
I’ve tried to no avail.
Welll... appreciate you sharing your techniques but i didnt have to cut mine. No sir, it wasnt sitting flush to floor, had quarter inch gap in the back, so I tightened down the bolts and she's flat
Being a plumber by trade the only thing that levels a toilet is a flat floor. Good tile job etc. Usually I need to shim and calk a toilet to keep it from wobbling.
Yes sir. Thanks for the thoughtful comment.
Exactly what I was looking for! Thanks!
I’ve been installing these for over 7 years with zero failure rate. If the flange is not properly set and off kilter I can see this rubber ring being an issue.
Acidity in our urine causes synthetic or rubber to deteriorate slowly,
pick a ring that still has wax enclosed by manufactured products.
The beauty of life, we can choose what we like! Enjoy your wax!
This is the same idea i had but i tried it with out the spacer and it ses to work no leaks should i take it off and cut the spacer down and do it again?
If the rubber hits the toilet and you have no leaks, you should be fine.
@TodayIWorkOn yeah so far so good no leaking so I I'm thinking it's good but kept the spacer just incase
@@jasonhorn5976 any updates, I just did the same thing after getting a leak with the spacer.
@wilsua o issues and it's been about 2 weeks
@@jasonhorn5976 Thanks for the reply, seems like the spacer isn't needed for flush mounted flanges. So far so good gonna test for a few more days before caulking.
I have this problem right now...i guess i need to cut the extension foam.....damnit.
Thank u for the great info👍
You do realize the toilet flange is supposed to be ON TOP OF the finished floor, not flush with it. The seal (this one which I have used and like or wax which is only a pain if you have to pull the toilet) is ONLY for preventing sewer gas as the horn of the toilet is supposed to sit inside the toilet flange because it is supposed to be mounted on top of the finished floor. A properly installed toilet flange will leave very little space between it and horn of the toilet. They make stackable extender rings and the like too as you need solid material above the finished floor for the horn of the toilet to sit into it - wax rings and rubber rings serving as extenders is not reliable over time especially if you have a wood subfloor as they always have some flexibility and bounce.
I realize a lot of things, like, a cast iron flange in concrete. If you want to come by, hammer out the concrete, replace the cast and raise the flange up 1.5” that would be awesome. I’m not sure a 1000 dollar change order to pick up the flange 1.5” would go well with my client. 😂. Did you realize that!?😬. That’s why they make the black extension. This is not a new construction project. I would love to work in your perfect world of remodeling. It sounds really nice.
@@TodayIWorkOn Just use stackable extender rings (screwed in) BEFORE using the better than wax ring and problem solved for less than $10. The foam gaskets are NOT to used as a pipe extension and will not last over time. Just saying...
are you sure about that. I just ripped up my toilet at my that I installed 10 years ago, with an extender and she was Gucci. I love learning, but I always want fact based evidence on statements. The extender is included for a reason. I don’t have to respond to these comments, but I do because I like the people that read these comments to have substance and fact behind the statements made. If you can link me some literature and back up what you are saying, it would be great.
@@TodayIWorkOn This product has barely been out for 10 years so I doubt this is true. The toilet flange (or closet flange) is supposed to be installed ON TOP OF the finished floor and not level with or below it. That's a fact. 95% of the problems are from not doing this. To reiterate, I use this product but I make sure the flange is set to be on top of the finished floor height before proceeding. Stacking the foam rings, while ok in the instructions is not what should be done. Read up. The horn of the toilet is to set inside the flange and the seal (wax ring or this product) is only there to prevent sewer gas, it is NOT to act as an extension of the flange or pipe. You must be doing work without permits or something. I actually work with professional engineers, architects and trades not people that do substandard work or who cut corners for a quick buck. That's just sad.
Good thing I’m retired building my 10,000 sqft home for my family. 😂. In my videos, I always express how I work on something. There’s always more than one way to skin a cat. If the engineers at fluid master say the extra flange can be used, I’m going to use it. It’s fluid master. They literally own the toilet market with their engineered products. Stop banging your head against a wall just because I did a video on a different way(per fluid master directions) on how to install these no wax rings. The seal is still solid. They don’t leak. They sell thousands and thousands of this product every day. If you scroll though the comments in this video you will notice the lack of horror stories about them leaking. People say they will leak in time, but the product has been out for a while now and I have not experienced a failure or heard about one. 🤷.
Question is why he didn’t take the smaller extension out and just use the bigger one….. it’s on the manual instructions
So we don’t confuse anyone here, I just reread the directions for the 89th time and in step 5a, 5b, and 5c. I don’t see what you are inferring. Are you referring which step?
If it starts to leak again later can you just reposition it or will you have to start over with something new?
It should never leak. If it does the initial install failed. 😕
@@TodayIWorkOn yeah it was good for a couple months and just now started again. My floor I my bathroom is pretty bad though. I’m just gonna try her again until I can work on what’s probably the real problem. Thanks 👍
yea my toilet dont like my new bidet when i twerk on the seat 😅🤣 shes leaking now got damn i need to slow down a bit
thank you.
I would only ever use that if the floor was concrete underneath.
I’m interested to know… why? The flange contacts the toilet flange and has nothing to do with the concrete.
@TodayIWorkOn I've used these before and have not had success, especially in older homes where the wooden floor was out of level. At least when it starts to leak, it will be on concrete and not cause too much damage.
I thought these came with a couple different thicknesses of foam to use
Nope, just one.
@@TodayIWorkOn the one i bought came with a thick one and a thin one and you could stack them if needed
@@joshsoorlin579correct. But, a lot of times, like this example, adding the extra seal made the toilet too high and the toilet will rock off the seal. Once you experience it, you will understand this video.
where did you put the wax ring under the rubber one?
Seems like if you use the rubber you don’t use wax at all
He only uses a rubber on his dog Brownie.
I would never ever throw in a rubber gasket than a wax ring because wax is more of a lubricant and makes a better seal meanwhile rubber will break down and rot eventually causing a leak and it only lasts for several years meanwhile Wax can last for decades
Oh.
Obviously it does, but I don't understand how this can seal out the water when flushing. I understand that a toilet flushing is not high pressure, but still, I don't get it 🤔
its rubber, which naturally is something that seals. Think about washers all over the world that are compressed a little bit. This is the same theory, where the foam acts as the driving force up on to the toilet ring and creates a seal. The only way the seal can break is a breakdown on the foam, but I'm assuming that's not going to fail since it was engineered for a toilet.
i used it like that without cutting it, crossing my fingers hopefully it don't leak
The rubber needs to hit the bottom of the toilet or it will leak. There needs to be some sort of compression going on to eliminate a leak. Good luck with it!
How much do they pay for doing this??
Pay to what? Be in their presence? Quite a bit. I’m very expensive.
Thanks,
Good tip if needed.
Q- How tight did you tighten the nuts?
If you calk bottom
1- leak wont be detected until much later AFTER the SEWER smell makes its presence.
Ive heard from plumbers not to calk for these very reasons and it was only due to my not calkibg I just noticed the leak last night ( due to me rocking on it after a knee replacement making it difficult to rise from it straight out)
But thanks for sharing.!👍
Caulk 100%, but leave the back uncaulked. It's cleaner and stronger of a hold. The nuts on the toilet flange are not what holds the toilet in place, it's the caulk. Back in the day plumbers used to mix plaster of Paris under a toilet to set it.
By the time you put that piece of rubber on there, I’d have the toilet seated.
A pro’s pro. Throw up a video. I’m eager to see the magic happen.
Can't you simply screw it down hard enough so it compresses and the toilet is flat? Wouldn't that ensure a very tight seal?
I don't have experience with this, it's an honest question
Nope. What usually happens is you pull the flange and bend it. The foam is so dense the small bolts do not have the strength to pull the toilet down. You can even sit on the toilet with a flange higher than it should be and the toilet will rock like a seesaw. You can also use a utility blade to cut the excess foam material if you don’t have a grinder. Makes sure you use a sharp blade and be careful you don’t cut your fingers.
No because if you tighten it to tight it'll Crack the porcelain toilet. Then you would have replace the entire toilet. You never want to tighten down a toilet to tight. Just maybe a few turns once it's hand tight.
Well my flange is steel .. i yanked out the nails holding it down and put in coarse threaded screws. I also used bigger washers on the hold down bolts for wider pressure area on the procelain. It compressed the foam spacer and the toilet is flat on ground and steady as a rock.
I battled with this product along with the red Korky wax free version for days. Both were leaking. I really didn't want to use the messy wax ring, but it solved my problem. I was tryiing to squash down on the toilet but it just sat too high and rocked like a see saw. I really wanted the wax free setup, but in the end, the wax ring solved my problems. Now that I watched your method of cutting the thicker spacer, I may have done it. Too late now, I'm not going back in. I just don't understand why they would sell a product that instantly needs modification.
I think I missed it, what i2 the ideal height above the finished floor?
Code says flange sits on top of finished floor, which means the blue part of the no wax ring will work perfectly. The issue is, in a lot of cases, it’s way lower. That’s why we have the added black extension piece.
I would have just used a sharp utility knife to cut that. And probably just wax... for the seal... So you dont have to cut stuff. And stuff.
You almost cut your fingers off man
Not many people picked up how dangerous it was the way he cut the spacer. Obviously not a professional and I hope he doesnt get people hurt and cause more leaking toilets !
He meant well. But I agree... super dangerous and there are obviously people out there that would try that. I've been a plumber for a long time and never used that product. And now that I've watched this... I never will.
That is very risky holding a rubber gasket and splitting it with a circular power saw.
Instead of cutting the riser like you did, just use two of the blue seals and you're done.
I’m not sure it would be high enough and it would mean buying 2 packages, while one would suffice. That’s why they have the extender ring in the box.
@@TodayIWorkOn
$20.00 for two packs is a lot faster and less money than buying the cutter you had to use. Plus the two blue seals fit perfectly. I had the same problem, and using two worked great.
@@truthseekerKJValways more than one solution to a problem!
Ps- you can never have enough tools. 😬.
@@truthseekerKJV if you don’t own an angle grinder, then cut it with a knife. $10 more is not easier, you had to work 30 minutes to an hour to earn that in your paycheck. And it takes one minute to cut.
🍻🤘
"Pro-CAULK" 👍😎
Siliconized grout caulk, 100%.
I like no cutting , I stopped the video at 2:59. ..at least for now because once again they can't tell me which is better a wax ring or a rubber seal??????????????
What’s better? That’s a debate with no answer really. It’s what people prefer.
Don't use Fluidmaster's "Better Than Wax" product. That was my choice as well for a toilet that began to leak at the floor. Three years or so after installing this product, it began to leak again. When I removed the toilet, I discovered that the plastic that this product is made of had hardened and deteriorated, allowing the leak. Many types of plastic deteriorate over time. I sensibly assumed that Fluidmaster would have used a plastic that would endure. They don't; the product is garbage.
Been installing them for over 6 years and I’ve never had a failure. If I were you I would contact Fluidmaster and send it back to them to investigate to see what exactly happened to the rubber.
Hackery
I always appreciate all comments, the ones that mock me the most, but, please don’t use words that don’t make sense to make fun of me. That’s not entertaining… 😔
hack•er-y' hack-er.y l'hakerē |
noun informal
the action or practice of gaining unauthorized access to data in a system or computer: a gambler won $32 million at a casino, thanks to a little network hackery carried out by accomplices.
• quick or rough programming: since there is no proper APl, l used some good old-fashioned hackery to get the job done.
hack•er •y hack-ery | 'hakerē |
noun
unoriginal writing, especially journalism, of substandard quality: every article is a piece of political hackery.
Yeah never use a grinder again.
Crap, already have….
Please never do what this guy is doing... Extremely dangerous holding the grinder so close to bare hands. No face shield being used... not to mention the obvious that you are altering a product, which totally voids any type of warranty you have for it not working. The neoprene is meant to compress down. You didnt need to cut it...
Sound advice.
I couldn't believe how close his hand was what a knucklehead
@@annhopkin5079 it's amazing how a knucklehead like me can still have 10 fingers after being in the trade for 26 years! Pure luck some would say.
@@TodayIWorkOn oh sorry!!! Mr knucklehead. But the video is for novices also, and it was super crazy dangerous! I'm glad you still have 11 knuckles!!!😉
Doing the same thing. The spacer didn’t compress either. Time for the angle grinder to adjust that thing down.
FREE TIP COURTESY OF FILM SCHOOL: Next time use a ladder and a clamp ( improvise with a bungee cord) Your lighting source should be above YOU. Unless you do that an "EVIL" shadow is cast upon your face! Since this is an instructional video AND NOT a horror flick it does matter.
LOL. Low budget filming, I gotta improvise. Once I get to Mr.Beast numbers I'll get a crew to help.
Yeah I'll just stick with the wax ring . I'm not about to do all this. I've never had any problems with wax rings and they've lasted a long time for me so...
Niceeee. Wax is cool, just messy and does not hold up to heated floors very well.
OR just use a wax ring
Nah. Radiant too close to the wax ring. No bueno. 😘
not near as easy
I hope people DONT take his advise. 99.99 % of toilets have wax seals and never have a problem. If you have a problem with a wax seal its he installation not the wax seal. Cutting the extender as he did was a bad idea and cutting it with a grinder aimed at his hand shows his lack of knowledge ! I do this for a living and am speaking from experience !
Please tell me how much experience do you have with this particular rubber ring. I’m interested to know. The issue with this system is the toilet usually floats off the floor because the rubber can’t compress as much as it should, like in this instance.
Wax rings don’t work well with radiant heat, which is what I have here in this floor. Since I like to make sure my clients have toasty feet, I do not use wax for the simple reason. You need to be 12+ inches away from the ring with your heating element. Lastly, if you are aware rubber is not going to destroy a metal cut off blade 🤣. Are you sure you do this for a living?
NO NO NO. Wax stays pliable all these new things will brittle up and leak over time. You use enough wax to seal it up.
Whew. This post feels intense with passion. Are you a mechanical engineer? I’d love to hear the engineering behind your post. Did you know wax is a one time install? Once you move the toilet it or rock it, the wax gets disturbed and loses its initial water tightness.