I'm a professional and have been caulking for longer than you've been alive and I never once considered pushing the gun, until today, it makes sense. And, I used to think profilers were for DIY sissies, but you sold me and now I'm happily a sissy too, haha. Good video young man, this oldie learned a thing or two.
Thank you for all of these videos! We have been married 25 yrs and my husband is just *TIRED* of all the honey-do projects. so I've started tackling them and to my surprise I am enjoying doing these.
How did you manage that? We've been married 30+ years and, except for the heavy lifting and electrical work, I've always been the "do" part of hunny do. 😂
I saw this video a few weeks ago and bought the caulking profiling kit thinking that "it might come in handy some day". Today was this day. It's a massive improvement over using your fingers! Thank you, you saved me a lot of time and frustration.
Pushing the caulk rather than dragging - excellent tip!! Nice clean caulking make me happy 🙂 since I lean towards the OCD zone when it comes to home repairs. 🤣
Use tape and please nothing that he wint show you the way this looks directly after he wipes it with the tool. He is bring sneaky like every stupid infomercial. The way the caulking tool scrapes the glooring and the fake grain will leave caulking in the grains of the laminate and look terrible. Use tape and water and LIGHTLY apply caulking once and pull tape immediately. Then let cure and tape againe if a few gaps are left or you need a better bead. I do mine up to three times sometimes when it is really bad and uneven. I am about to do some today in fact. Just seeing if there is something fifferent about it but it is the same as it was 20 years ago. Nothing has changed here. Still a biotch and needs a steady hand and aome patience.
This is great! I had a general idea but without my Dad around I am just lost tackling projects. I lost him over a month ago and he was my engineer for everything. I’m not dumb by any means but loosing your Dad at a young age you realize there was so much more to learn from him.
Sorry for your loss my friend. If there is one thing I know is that most DIY are easier than they seem as long as you take one step at a time. And most importantly, 99% of mistakes are fixable . You are not a professional, you are an someone who has stepped up to the plate to maintain a home. Professional grade work is definitely not something I worry myself with. I wish you all the very best.
Caulking used to be my actual nightmare. Always terrible at it with smudges and smears EVERYWHERE. This video turned me into a pro at it. THANK YOU!!!! Virtual beer to you brother
Many thanks for this video! It’s extremely informative. I just caulked my new tub and it look’s almost perfect. Spray bottle, credit card, push the caulk, don’t caulk back, all EXCELLENT ADVICE! ✌️
I would run across this the day after I did all the caulking around a newly installed shower & wall trim. Wish I’d seen this sooner. I profiled mine with painter’s tape, Windex, fingertips, and nearly a roll of paper towels. It was a real headache. The profiling kit shown here looks handy.
I use painters tape for all my caulk jobs. Then I smooth out the caulk w/ finger while wearing disposable gloves. Remove painters tape after smoothing. Perfection every time.
@@CbrF4i600cc do it once correctly or do it every few years because you used soapy water. Every quality sealant manufacturer says to dry tool. As a professional caulker for over 40 years, if someone showed up to a jobsite with a spray bottle of soapy water they would be fired on the spot. I agree that taping is very slow and tedious. But if you don’t have the skills to properly tool the sealant ( and by the way the caulking tool he uses does not properly tool the joint,it just scrapes off the excess) then taping is THE best solution for a long lasting properly sealed joint.
We JUST got new flooring put down and the toilets replaced. They didn't caulk the toilets and I was going to do it this weekend. Perfect timing by the algorithm Gods. LOL. Thank you for the technique and tips!
I had to use toilet shims to prevent rocking, and used a silicone caulk that matches my gray tile grout, left a gap at the back of the toilet. Looks nicer, covers the shims, and my kids sometimes splash during bath time, so for me that's the way to go.
Thanks for this review. Have not done much viewing on caulking toilets but you gave me new way to do them. I like idea not doing the rear so you know when water is leaking. My only concern is if Roaches can squeeze out from the back. Changing toilet for a friends flip, lifting the toilet, all these roaches came running out. Was 'ready' with my spray but I hate knowing they are down there and can sneak out with the open back. Thanks again for your Tips...like them.
A very nice, informative video. Thank you! I do caulk toilets, too, but... I always use clear silicon. Always perfect caulking - no mistakes can be seen...
@@ollerpops if you applied the caulking from right to left, then do your wipe pass from left to right. It will help push the caulking into the joint and not pull it out.
"Push the caulk." Great tip! ALWAYS push the caulk when possible. Pulling the bead stretches it out and will lead to premature shrinkage and failure of the seal. Learned this many years ago in the glass business. Great job explaining this process.
Thanks, this worked great! I used your guidance to caulk a pedestal sink to a tile floor. The 90-degree profiling tool gives a very clean look. I used the DAP Dynaflex 230 as well.
Spritzing the soapy water is a great idea. I've used masking tape whose margin I cut with a knife to form distinct lines. Smear the caulk and pull away the tape to leave a sharp line. It works OK, but I like your soapy water idea.
I laughed seeing somebody has a video for this, but I live in South Carolina so I understand shesh... I like to add to the list on why you caulk the toilet and that's to finalize and LOCK the toilet in place so all the stress on any type of movement is not on the two bolts and helps from cracking the wax seal from heavy hitters who plop down on toilets 🤭 I
I just did this job last week. I "winged it" as you said and it actually turned out fine, but I wish I'd seen your video first because I wasn't aware of that soapy water trick. I'll definitely use it next time I'm caulking something. Thx for the video!
I came across this a few months ago and saved it for later. Today was later. I would have used the finger and it would have looked just like that! Thank you!
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. My preference is to read instead of watching a video but sometimes a visual guide is the better way and I am thankful that I found your videos. I also really appreciate the links. Replacing one of our toilets and I was debating on caulking or buying the caulk strip. After watching this video, I will caulk and leave the back open. We are replacing the trim and flooring in the house and your videos are a blessing. Love the bloopers too! 😂
Thanks man I been struggling I'm A chef that's in maintenance now in caulking is one of the main things that I hate doing so I need all the best tips that I can get
Thank you for this video. As a building code official, we usually require the caulk run around the back of the toilet with a 1" opening . This allows under toilet leakage to escape while minimizing the area where external fluids can enter. And best way to caulk this area is with a squeeze tube, not a caulking gun. If silicone caulk is used, should spray bottle be filled with denatured alcohol, not water?
I give them the option of caulk around a commode and typically recommend not doing it. Caulk will often yellow and look bad from urine. Least without it they can get under the edge when cleaning. Several times been called backed to pull the commode and remove caulk.
Not caulking and wax ring failure are directly related for 3 reasons: caulk helps keep the toilet from rocking, it keeps spilled liquids (body fluids, mop water, overflows) OUT, which could rot the subfloor, and it indicates that the toilet was not installed by an informed plumber, so maybe they also weren't so good at properly setting a wax ring.
@@andrewrossnagel9433 True, I'm a remodeler, not a plumber. I also agree that shims are needed, but I maintain that caulk helps long term. I've removed hundreds of toilets from well built homes and I know which ones failed. Construction techniques are very regional, but in 3 west coast states I have never seen plaster used for toilets. Definitely tubs and shower pans though. I would still caulk after the plaster, since the plaster will absorb gross things readily.
@andrewalaska I highly recommend plaster of paris. It takes a couple minutes to mix and costs a dollar or 2 per bowl. It makes the bowl very secure and breaks away with a light tap from a hammer if you need to remove or reset the bowl. For tubs and showers I like to use structo-lite.
First time ever being told about a profiling kit. I've made an order online for it. And I never thought to push the caulk gun. Definitely sounds more intelligent to do it that way. I'll give that a try.
Thank you so much for this video, my dad could actually explain this to me but instead he chose to yell at me that I'm useless, so I had to resort to you.
Excellent tips. I used color-matched silicon from the tile manufacturer. It has the same look as the tile grout I used. To me, it looks much better than white, creating a shadow line to the floor with the black (almost dark grey). White would have showed every error, as well as any waviness in the line.
excellent, detailed video and great tips. I like the idea of leaving the back of the toilet un-caulked in case of leaks, also the soapy water suggestion. BTW, I ordered the tool (already use the tips) - both products great. thanks again for taking the time to share your knowledge and to make great instructional videos to help so many.
I know what you're using here is not 100% silicone, but I switched to DAP bathroom caulking, their AMP stuff. Excellent product, I think mold and mildew resistant for life. Despite it being oil based cleanup, it is very easy to work with, gives you a MUCH longer time to trim and shape it than silicone, cleans up nice with just a paper towel and unlike silicone, you can paint it which is good around bath/shower combos; if you don't get a straight line due to an abberation in the drywall, you can simply paint the caulk to make it look straight. I tried it around a toilet and it's not as easy as what you did (probably because I didn't use any mineral spirits on my finger) but it wipes up cleanly and wasn't too bad. The trick is to put a very small bead down, then use your pinky to smooth it out, which expands the bead of caulk some. Simply wipe the excess areas away with a paper towel. No more 100% silicone for me!
That's good feedback. I just bought a tube of that same caulk. I'm planning on using it on denshield. In the corners, screwheads and around a window. Before I start tiling.
Excellent video. Feel much more cofident about re-doing mine now. The tile is very porous, so I hope the caulk doesn't migrate and stick as I pull it with the profiling tool.
I gave up and just assumed I was only good with nuts and bolts... anything with putty, mud, caulk I just assumed I didn't have the skill. Well... I might give caulking a try again soon!
Takes a little practice but it is not difficult. If I can do this so can you. A good place to practice running a bead is in the corners of rooms about to be painted. A thin bead helps me get crisp corners. Especially if the texture is a bit heavy. Straighter lines to cut to when changing colors. Take your time. With Acrylic Latex you can wipe off your mistakes.
Caulking a toilet to the floor eliminates your early warning when the wax ring fails! Great way to add floor replacement to your project when shit fails!
The problem with caulking a toilet to the floor is it makes it impossible to know if you have a failing toilet ring. Just because you caulk it doesn't mean it stops leaking. Worse yet, the water gets trapped in there and eventually it WILL find a way through to a subfloor. If the toilet is severely unlevel you can use toilet shims or composite shims to level it. Then caulk the gap, but leave a "weep hole" or two in a non visible wall side. This is better than no holes, and any visible water at the base indicates a failed wax ring. I'm a licensed builder, plumber, electrician, and have dozens of rental properties. While pulling the toilet to fix a wax ring isnt pleasant, it's much better than when you get a call from a tenant who basically fell through a rotted subfloor while dropping a deuce.
If you don't have a profiling tool you can also use masking tape! Just mask off the area you don't want sealant and smooth it out with your finger. Works better IMO because it leaves a much cleaner edge with no residue
To be honest, I find the opposite. Especially with silicone caulk, the masking tape usually leaves small raised edges that you need to go back and knock down anyways. Profiling tools are quicker and you don’t need to spend all that time lining up the tape.
Make 100 percent sure your baseboard is caulked at floor at 1:50 can see it is not If it's not and you have a leak you don't notice immediately... it will wick up the drywall destroying it and possibly leading to toxic mold
I am glad to see training like that. Getting 6 tubes of the same caulk and getting used to one's preferred is necessary as the crap is frustrating! 😅 Just gluing old boards together to see how well different ones stick. I use 3 foot 2x4s on 3 foot 2x8s. Test them for grip after 48 hours in dark dry climate. Good practice and gives appreciation for adhesive properties. Everytime I can caulk at home it's midnight. I always have fun even though I can't see as well as I'd like! So far I like Lexel clear or white. It's a polymer rubber. I tried 5 to 7 other brands beforehand. This stuff stretches, goes on cold and damp. What's your favorite clear amd white brand? If the crack is big because of various reasons, I like to shove plummers puddy into the crack as a type of backer. Or the thick quality white electrical tape. Or even scrap foam. Depends on crack size.
Two great tips there! Leaving a space at the back. And pushing forward not pulling backwards. Just in time, doing a toilet next week! Hey, you, an American, said ‘toilet’!
Thanks, but a small hand held squeeze tube works better for me. my toilet isn't on a platform and it's surrounded by walls - makes it tough to get the right angle with a big caulking gun
Great simple tip at 1:12! Plus the tip at 2:25 too that I hadn't seen before, in conjunction with the profiling tool. Thanks! (the unexpected outtakes at the end were cool - you had such a smooth and natural delivery in the video that I didn't think you made any mistakes, haha)
I have used painter tape to prevent smearing when calking. It takes a long time but gets a good result. However, I think it would not work well around a round spot like a toilet... I better learn from this vide
saw a toilet sink into a floor on a third story frame complex... it had developed a leak around the wax ring and likely for years rotted out the subfloor and a joist... it had been caulked around the toilet and no one knew it was leaking
I've done a fair amount of caulking, and I guess a person has to find out over time what works best for them... I always cut the tip as small as i can, at a fairly steep angle, more than 45 degrees, cut or sand the pointy end to make it round, and then "pull" the caulk, varying the speed and pressure on the trigger to compensate for variations in the gap. Then, wearing nitrile gloves, i use the tip of my little finger to smooth it out, most times, there is hardly anything to wipe off my finger. If I tried your method with clear silicone, which I find the hardest to work with, I'd have a huge mess.
If you're changing the toilet and have open access to the floor below, set the toilet down temporarily on the flange and sit it exactly where you like the alignment, then mask the floor along the perimeter outline of the bowl base with tape to uniformly mark the edge of the future finished caulk joint. Or if you're replacing with the same old toilet, say after laying a new bathroom floor or just making a simple wax-ring replacement, mask the floor around the base first after cleaning the flooring well there for adhesion. Now lift the toilet off and mask off around its base with a neat line of tape that sets the top edge of the finished caulk line. Caulk the floor just inside the tape line (leaving a drainage gap at the rear to indicate if/when your flange leaks, as our host suggested) with enough caulk to fill the joint and press out slightly- this amount is a judgment call. Like with all filler adhesives, you want the 'right' amount and experience makes you better at estimating. You definitely don't want more than necessary. Reset the toilet bowl on top of the wet caulk and carefully lower it into position, then finger-snug the flange bolts. Smooth the caulk joint with your finger and then remove excess press-out by wiping it away with damp paper towels. Be quick but neat because the whole point is not to leave an ugly mess, especially on the flooring. Remove all the masking tape carefully as soon as possible, pulling away from the joint at a low angle for a sharp edge, and you're left with a clean uniform caulk joint that is more like a formed gasket and doesn't mess up the flooring around the base, requiring more cleanup. Looks very professional and works well. Let the caulk cure 'til it skins then resnug the flange bolts lightly with a wrench. Proceed.
Don't run a continuous bead, put it down like a dotted line so when you run your finger along it the voids fill and a big pile doesn't build up getting pushed by your finger
I just did a full remodel on my home and I was doing baseboards based on your video tutorials. I used the Dynaflex 230 and will never go back. It is fantastic and using your strategy I was able to caulk and finish everything seamlessly. I can't thank you enough for spending your time to make us all smarter and more efficient.
Great tips mate! Many thanks and keep them coming! Just looked for both of those products here in Spain with Amazon and nada! Even with the profiler made in Germany! 🤣 You guys over the pond always have the best time saver tools!
You want to use the tile grout on tile. Water based caulk always discolors and looks like caulk. On a vinyl floor it's ok.. Also I would use Dap tile and tub caulk in the small red squeeze tube rather than a caulking gun behind and around the back of the fixture. With a full tube and the rod sticking out the back on the caulking gun you won't be able to get between the bowl and wall or the cabinet, let alone the back side. Of course you could skip the back since you probably won't see it. You will also probably have some shims to caulk or grout around or trim on a properly installed fixture.
Thank you for all your tips! I have a 1997 Dodge poplar 190. Tinted windows in the front. Well I definitely know I'm going to be sealing around the absolute window which is metal, and then the inside has the rubber next to the glass (not sure what I'm going to do around the rubber part) Do you have any videos on Windows on RVs?
So much easier on a workbench than trying to fit into what people call toilet closets. Good information all around. A rounded damp sponge is also good for clean and minor corrections to the finished bead. The explanation to push instead of pull should also be used around surfaces with larger gaps. Between windows, frames, trim and walls. Using a small cut hole is good for the finished look between counters and back splashes etc.
I'm a professional and have been caulking for longer than you've been alive and I never once considered pushing the gun, until today, it makes sense. And, I used to think profilers were for DIY sissies, but you sold me and now I'm happily a sissy too, haha. Good video young man, this oldie learned a thing or two.
Refreshing 💞to hear this from an oldie 🤭! Godspeed to you and those alike!
Thank you for all of these videos! We have been married 25 yrs and my husband is just *TIRED* of all the honey-do projects. so I've started tackling them and to my surprise I am enjoying doing these.
How did you manage that? We've been married 30+ years and, except for the heavy lifting and electrical work, I've always been the "do" part of hunny do. 😂
I saw this video a few weeks ago and bought the caulking profiling kit thinking that "it might come in handy some day". Today was this day. It's a massive improvement over using your fingers! Thank you, you saved me a lot of time and frustration.
Pushing the caulk rather than dragging - excellent tip!! Nice clean caulking make me happy 🙂 since I lean towards the OCD zone when it comes to home repairs. 🤣
Cheers🍻 and thanks for watching
Use tape and please nothing that he wint show you the way this looks directly after he wipes it with the tool. He is bring sneaky like every stupid infomercial. The way the caulking tool scrapes the glooring and the fake grain will leave caulking in the grains of the laminate and look terrible. Use tape and water and LIGHTLY apply caulking once and pull tape immediately. Then let cure and tape againe if a few gaps are left or you need a better bead. I do mine up to three times sometimes when it is really bad and uneven. I am about to do some today in fact. Just seeing if there is something fifferent about it but it is the same as it was 20 years ago. Nothing has changed here. Still a biotch and needs a steady hand and aome patience.
This is great! I had a general idea but without my Dad around I am just lost tackling projects. I lost him over a month ago and he was my engineer for everything. I’m not dumb by any means but loosing your Dad at a young age you realize there was so much more to learn from him.
Sorry for your loss my friend. If there is one thing I know is that most DIY are easier than they seem as long as you take one step at a time. And most importantly, 99% of mistakes are fixable . You are not a professional, you are an someone who has stepped up to the plate to maintain a home. Professional grade work is definitely not something I worry myself with.
I wish you all the very best.
Sorry for your loss brotha. He’s proud of you learning.
Caulking used to be my actual nightmare. Always terrible at it with smudges and smears EVERYWHERE. This video turned me into a pro at it. THANK YOU!!!! Virtual beer to you brother
Many thanks for this video! It’s extremely informative. I just caulked my new tub and it look’s almost perfect.
Spray bottle, credit card, push the caulk, don’t caulk back, all EXCELLENT ADVICE! ✌️
Why only almost perfect ,
Why not perfect ❤❤😂😂
Man, your videos are the best. You are showing every detail of a work, which actually makes the job professional. Thanks for those tips!
This dude is the King of caulk.
A great how-to video. Concise, good camera work, and an inarguably good-looking product. Major bonus points for the outtakes. Thank you!
Thanks buddy, I appreciate the compliment🍻
The “pushing” technique is a game changer!
I would run across this the day after I did all the caulking around a newly installed shower & wall trim. Wish I’d seen this sooner. I profiled mine with painter’s tape, Windex, fingertips, and nearly a roll of paper towels. It was a real headache. The profiling kit shown here looks handy.
I use painters tape for all my caulk jobs. Then I smooth out the caulk w/ finger while wearing disposable gloves. Remove painters tape after smoothing. Perfection every time.
Sounds like a home owner method
@@CbrF4i600cc and one that works every time
@@buckmclean8391 I hope so after the hour it takes to do
@@CbrF4i600cc do it once correctly or do it every few years because you used soapy water. Every quality sealant manufacturer says to dry tool. As a professional caulker for over 40 years, if someone showed up to a jobsite with a spray bottle of soapy water they would be fired on the spot. I agree that taping is very slow and tedious. But if you don’t have the skills to properly tool the sealant ( and by the way the caulking tool he uses does not properly tool the joint,it just scrapes off the excess) then taping is THE best solution for a long lasting properly sealed joint.
Why is scraping inferior to taping?
We JUST got new flooring put down and the toilets replaced. They didn't caulk the toilets and I was going to do it this weekend. Perfect timing by the algorithm Gods. LOL. Thank you for the technique and tips!
I had to use toilet shims to prevent rocking, and used a silicone caulk that matches my gray tile grout, left a gap at the back of the toilet. Looks nicer, covers the shims, and my kids sometimes splash during bath time, so for me that's the way to go.
What’s wrong with you
Fantastic! Caulking toilets has always been one of my most hated jobs. Now I don't have to worry too much about it anymore!
Thanks for this review. Have not done much viewing on caulking toilets but you gave me new way to do them. I like idea not doing the rear so you know when water is leaking. My only concern is if Roaches can squeeze out from the back. Changing toilet for a friends flip, lifting the toilet, all these roaches came running out. Was 'ready' with my spray but I hate knowing they are down there and can sneak out with the open back. Thanks again for your Tips...like them.
A very nice, informative video.
Thank you!
I do caulk toilets, too, but...
I always use clear silicon.
Always perfect caulking - no mistakes can be seen...
Just a tip from an old glazer, when you whip the sealant GO in the opposite direction that you used when you "pushed" your sealant.
Not a bad idea Dwight, thanks for sharing it🍻
I don’t understand what you mean? I want to know please.
@@ollerpops if you applied the caulking from right to left, then do your wipe pass from left to right. It will help push the caulking into the joint and not pull it out.
Spot on Dwight!
@Kyle Schumacher correct and it also pushes it in deeper.
"Push the caulk." Great tip! ALWAYS push the caulk when possible. Pulling the bead stretches it out and will lead to premature shrinkage and failure of the seal.
Learned this many years ago in the glass business. Great job explaining this process.
Yes, premature shrinkage I've experienced many times in my life 😄
@@omarf2406 You might want to see a doctor and get some "little blue pills?"😂
@@omarf2406"I was in the pool, I was in the pool."😂
@@davidjohn4140 There you go, Georgie boy! 😄
Thank you! This helped me as a 23 year old woman fix my boyfriend’s rough caulking job from a few months back
Thanks, this worked great!
I used your guidance to caulk a pedestal sink to a tile floor. The 90-degree profiling tool gives a very clean look. I used the DAP Dynaflex 230 as well.
Spritzing the soapy water is a great idea. I've used masking tape whose margin I cut with a knife to form distinct lines. Smear the caulk and pull away the tape to leave a sharp line. It works OK, but I like your soapy water idea.
Ok I googled how to caulk toilet and this came up. Thanks - I bought the profiling kit and am totally going to do this job myself!
You made Caulking my two toilets very easy. The soapy water is brilliant. Thanks
Great work as always. I love that you include the bloopers. We’re all human. Everyone makes mistakes. I need a good laugh now & then.
Thanks Bill
I laughed seeing somebody has a video for this, but I live in South Carolina so I understand shesh...
I like to add to the list on why you caulk the toilet and that's to finalize and LOCK the toilet in place so all the stress on any type of movement is not on the two bolts and helps from cracking the wax seal from heavy hitters who plop down on toilets 🤭
I
Excellent, professional quality video, clear straight to the point instructions. Thank you for posting.
I'm confused. Do I cut the cucumber before or after I profile the caulk? Very helpful video, though.
It’s more of a during type thing Pete… it’s important to stay hydrated!
Depends on if it’s new construction….or remodel.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Lmao
Dang beat me to it 🤣
Hahaha shit was hilarious
I just did this job last week. I "winged it" as you said and it actually turned out fine, but I wish I'd seen your video first because I wasn't aware of that soapy water trick. I'll definitely use it next time I'm caulking something. Thx for the video!
I came across this a few months ago and saved it for later. Today was later. I would have used the finger and it would have looked just like that! Thank you!
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. My preference is to read instead of watching a video but sometimes a visual guide is the better way and I am thankful that I found your videos. I also really appreciate the links.
Replacing one of our toilets and I was debating on caulking or buying the caulk strip. After watching this video, I will caulk and leave the back open.
We are replacing the trim and flooring in the house and your videos are a blessing. Love the bloopers too! 😂
Thanks for the short precise class 😊 I have to do both toilets in my home. I’ll be watching this video while tackling the job. 😊
Thanks for the tip about the soapy water keeping the caulk from gooing up
I love your program your videos are very informative and what a nice bead around the toilet
Cheers🍻thanks for watching it is appreciated!
Thanks man I been struggling I'm A chef that's in maintenance now in caulking is one of the main things that I hate doing so I need all the best tips that I can get
Thank you for this video. As a building code official, we usually require the caulk run around the back of the toilet with a 1" opening . This allows under toilet leakage to escape while minimizing the area where external fluids can enter. And best way to caulk this area is with a squeeze tube, not a caulking gun. If silicone caulk is used, should spray bottle be filled with denatured alcohol, not water?
I give them the option of caulk around a commode and typically recommend not doing it. Caulk will often yellow and look bad from urine. Least without it they can get under the edge when cleaning. Several times been called backed to pull the commode and remove caulk.
Not to mention the caulk can disguise a leak, which if not caught will ruin your floor.
Ew who are these people with yellow caulk from urine? Do they not know how to clean up after themselves?
Love your videos... Keep them coming. I need to check out the scraping tool... My finger always leaves a MESS!!
Thanks Buddy🍻 Have yourself an excellent weekend!
Not caulking and wax ring failure are directly related for 3 reasons: caulk helps keep the toilet from rocking, it keeps spilled liquids (body fluids, mop water, overflows) OUT, which could rot the subfloor, and it indicates that the toilet was not installed by an informed plumber, so maybe they also weren't so good at properly setting a wax ring.
I agree- in someways not caulking the toilet and expecting it to leak is a self fulfilling prophecy.
If you're using caulk to keep a toilet from rocking, then you're not a plumber. Use either plaster of paris to set the toilet in or at worst shim it.
@@andrewrossnagel9433 True, I'm a remodeler, not a plumber. I also agree that shims are needed, but I maintain that caulk helps long term. I've removed hundreds of toilets from well built homes and I know which ones failed. Construction techniques are very regional, but in 3 west coast states I have never seen plaster used for toilets. Definitely tubs and shower pans though. I would still caulk after the plaster, since the plaster will absorb gross things readily.
@andrewalaska I highly recommend plaster of paris. It takes a couple minutes to mix and costs a dollar or 2 per bowl. It makes the bowl very secure and breaks away with a light tap from a hammer if you need to remove or reset the bowl. For tubs and showers I like to use structo-lite.
If the toilet is rocking, either the bolts aren't tightened properly or the seal is failing. Either way, caulk is not the way to fix it.
I literally just did this today after watching your video. Was a bit nervous, idk why. Now I’m looking at the other toilets like y’all are next😂
First time ever being told about a profiling kit. I've made an order online for it. And I never thought to push the caulk gun. Definitely sounds more intelligent to do it that way. I'll give that a try.
Thank you so much for this video, my dad could actually explain this to me but instead he chose to yell at me that I'm useless, so I had to resort to you.
Failure is best teacher
YOU are not useless!!!❤
Excellent tips.
I used color-matched silicon from the tile manufacturer. It has the same look as the tile grout I used. To me, it looks much better than white, creating a shadow line to the floor with the black (almost dark grey). White would have showed every error, as well as any waviness in the line.
Just did the same.
Thought about white or pewter for a while. Went with the pewter to match grout.
excellent, detailed video and great tips. I like the idea of leaving the back of the toilet un-caulked in case of leaks, also the soapy water suggestion. BTW, I ordered the tool (already use the tips) - both products great. thanks again for taking the time to share your knowledge and to make great instructional videos to help so many.
I've never seen the soapy wooder trick before, thanks!
I know what you're using here is not 100% silicone, but I switched to DAP bathroom caulking, their AMP stuff. Excellent product, I think mold and mildew resistant for life. Despite it being oil based cleanup, it is very easy to work with, gives you a MUCH longer time to trim and shape it than silicone, cleans up nice with just a paper towel and unlike silicone, you can paint it which is good around bath/shower combos; if you don't get a straight line due to an abberation in the drywall, you can simply paint the caulk to make it look straight. I tried it around a toilet and it's not as easy as what you did (probably because I didn't use any mineral spirits on my finger) but it wipes up cleanly and wasn't too bad. The trick is to put a very small bead down, then use your pinky to smooth it out, which expands the bead of caulk some. Simply wipe the excess areas away with a paper towel. No more 100% silicone for me!
That's good feedback. I just bought a tube of that same caulk. I'm planning on using it on denshield. In the corners, screwheads and around a window. Before I start tiling.
Excellent video. Feel much more cofident about re-doing mine now. The tile is very porous, so I hope the caulk doesn't migrate and stick as I pull it with the profiling tool.
Brilliant...just replaced both...this clip..excellent for the nice finish👌👌
I gave up and just assumed I was only good with nuts and bolts... anything with putty, mud, caulk I just assumed I didn't have the skill. Well... I might give caulking a try again soon!
You can do it! Thanks for watching 🍻
🤣
Takes a little practice but it is not difficult.
If I can do this so can you.
A good place to practice running a bead is in the corners of rooms about to be painted.
A thin bead helps me get crisp corners.
Especially if the texture is a bit heavy.
Straighter lines to cut to when changing colors.
Take your time.
With Acrylic Latex you can wipe off your mistakes.
Caulking a toilet to the floor eliminates your early warning when the wax ring fails! Great way to add floor replacement to your project when shit fails!
The problem with caulking a toilet to the floor is it makes it impossible to know if you have a failing toilet ring. Just because you caulk it doesn't mean it stops leaking. Worse yet, the water gets trapped in there and eventually it WILL find a way through to a subfloor. If the toilet is severely unlevel you can use toilet shims or composite shims to level it. Then caulk the gap, but leave a "weep hole" or two in a non visible wall side. This is better than no holes, and any visible water at the base indicates a failed wax ring.
I'm a licensed builder, plumber, electrician, and have dozens of rental properties. While pulling the toilet to fix a wax ring isnt pleasant, it's much better than when you get a call from a tenant who basically fell through a rotted subfloor while dropping a deuce.
You took the words out of my mouth, plus the caulk just looks ugly over the course of time
He did leef a weep hole at the back.
@@brandonmcgee6394 Cut it out and redo it every 5 or 6 years.
You're a licensed plumber AND electrician? That's a lot of years on apprentice wages.
Rite...
I've never ever pushed. Nice tip.
If you don't have a profiling tool you can also use masking tape! Just mask off the area you don't want sealant and smooth it out with your finger. Works better IMO because it leaves a much cleaner edge with no residue
Good tip!
It's probably hard to do around a toilet tho.
To be honest, I find the opposite. Especially with silicone caulk, the masking tape usually leaves small raised edges that you need to go back and knock down anyways. Profiling tools are quicker and you don’t need to spend all that time lining up the tape.
I use the cucumber to even out the caulk. Great instructional video thank you.
Very helpful! And I like the last part of the video. You're so funny 😂
Glad you liked it!
I've always used my finger, but might try the tool. I like the straighter edge.
Great video thank you someone said you can also apply the sealant with a teaspoon attached to the sealant on the end
Make 100 percent sure your baseboard is caulked at floor at 1:50 can see it is not
If it's not and you have a leak you don't notice immediately... it will wick up the drywall destroying it and possibly leading to toxic mold
I am glad to see training like that. Getting 6 tubes of the same caulk and getting used to one's preferred is necessary as the crap is frustrating! 😅 Just gluing old boards together to see how well different ones stick. I use 3 foot 2x4s on 3 foot 2x8s. Test them for grip after 48 hours in dark dry climate. Good practice and gives appreciation for adhesive properties.
Everytime I can caulk at home it's midnight. I always have fun even though I can't see as well as I'd like!
So far I like Lexel clear or white. It's a polymer rubber. I tried 5 to 7 other brands beforehand. This stuff stretches, goes on cold and damp. What's your favorite clear amd white brand?
If the crack is big because of various reasons, I like to shove plummers puddy into the crack as a type of backer. Or the thick quality white electrical tape. Or even scrap foam. Depends on crack size.
Two great tips there! Leaving a space at the back. And pushing forward not pulling backwards. Just in time, doing a toilet next week!
Hey, you, an American, said ‘toilet’!
Canadian….North American
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Ah!
Pro level right there..Thank you!
Thanks, but a small hand held squeeze tube works better for me. my toilet isn't on a platform and it's surrounded by walls - makes it tough to get the right angle with a big caulking gun
Fair enough, but assuming code compliance there’s enough room for a caulking gun to caulk the sides and front.
Thank you so much for fhr tips this made a world of a difference , wish I've seen it earlier
Man really nice job, great video
Great simple tip at 1:12! Plus the tip at 2:25 too that I hadn't seen before, in conjunction with the profiling tool. Thanks!
(the unexpected outtakes at the end were cool - you had such a smooth and natural delivery in the video that I didn't think you made any mistakes, haha)
I like using popsicle sticks to go over the caulk bead
Thanks for the tips, and for the link for the saving caps...a nice one to get. Cheers from Ottawa.
Thanks buddy have an excellent weekend!🍻
I've caulked in a thousand toilets and I still watched this video.
Excellent tips, wish I’d have seen this a long time ago. Thanks.
Thank you for this. This is so random but I love your voice 😂😂
Thanks for adding to the discussion!
I have used painter tape to prevent smearing when calking. It takes a long time but gets a good result.
However, I think it would not work well around a round spot like a toilet... I better learn from this vide
saw a toilet sink into a floor on a third story frame complex... it had developed a leak around the wax ring and likely for years rotted out the subfloor and a joist... it had been caulked around the toilet and no one knew it was leaking
When smoothing the caulk against the toilet base, wipe the caulk with a clorox wipe. It works great.
Wow! Excellent Video!
It's a lot harder on an old man to do this when the stool is on the floor rather than on a table...
I've done a fair amount of caulking, and I guess a person has to find out over time what works best for them... I always cut the tip as small as i can, at a fairly steep angle, more than 45 degrees, cut or sand the pointy end to make it round, and then "pull" the caulk, varying the speed and pressure on the trigger to compensate for variations in the gap.
Then, wearing nitrile gloves, i use the tip of my little finger to smooth it out, most times, there is hardly anything to wipe off my finger.
If I tried your method with clear silicone, which I find the hardest to work with, I'd have a huge mess.
If you're changing the toilet and have open access to the floor below, set the toilet down temporarily on the flange and sit it exactly where you like the alignment, then mask the floor along the perimeter outline of the bowl base with tape to uniformly mark the edge of the future finished caulk joint. Or if you're replacing with the same old toilet, say after laying a new bathroom floor or just making a simple wax-ring replacement, mask the floor around the base first after cleaning the flooring well there for adhesion. Now lift the toilet off and mask off around its base with a neat line of tape that sets the top edge of the finished caulk line. Caulk the floor just inside the tape line (leaving a drainage gap at the rear to indicate if/when your flange leaks, as our host suggested) with enough caulk to fill the joint and press out slightly- this amount is a judgment call. Like with all filler adhesives, you want the 'right' amount and experience makes you better at estimating. You definitely don't want more than necessary. Reset the toilet bowl on top of the wet caulk and carefully lower it into position, then finger-snug the flange bolts. Smooth the caulk joint with your finger and then remove excess press-out by wiping it away with damp paper towels. Be quick but neat because the whole point is not to leave an ugly mess, especially on the flooring. Remove all the masking tape carefully as soon as possible, pulling away from the joint at a low angle for a sharp edge, and you're left with a clean uniform caulk joint that is more like a formed gasket and doesn't mess up the flooring around the base, requiring more cleanup. Looks very professional and works well. Let the caulk cure 'til it skins then resnug the flange bolts lightly with a wrench. Proceed.
Very professionnal video 💪 I have no excuse now for not doing a good job after seiing such video 😳😋
This was very helpful, thank you.
Thank you very much😊
It's so easy, a lot of thanks👍
Man, I wish I watched this vid before doing this 2 days ago 🥴😩🤣. Very nice!
Next time!
@TheFunnyCarpenter Think I may attempt to remove the caulk and then re-caulk.
EXCELLENT. ...INFORMATION..
Don't run a continuous bead, put it down like a dotted line so when you run your finger along it the voids fill and a big pile doesn't build up getting pushed by your finger
inconsistent bead in joint...thin spots.
I just did a full remodel on my home and I was doing baseboards based on your video tutorials. I used the Dynaflex 230 and will never go back. It is fantastic and using your strategy I was able to caulk and finish everything seamlessly. I can't thank you enough for spending your time to make us all smarter and more efficient.
Great tips mate! Many thanks and keep them coming!
Just looked for both of those products here in Spain with Amazon and nada!
Even with the profiler made in Germany!
🤣
You guys over the pond always have the best time saver tools!
You want to use the tile grout on tile. Water based caulk always discolors and looks like caulk. On a vinyl floor it's ok..
Also I would use Dap tile and tub caulk in the small red squeeze tube rather than a caulking gun behind and around the back of the fixture. With a full tube and the rod sticking out the back on the caulking gun you won't be able to get between the bowl and wall or the cabinet, let alone the back side. Of course you could skip the back since you probably won't see it.
You will also probably have some shims to caulk or grout around or trim on a properly installed fixture.
I like this guy.
What a helpful video.....thank you!
Awesome videos my good man! I don't know how you have the time to make these when I barely have the time to do the job itself! New sub. Cheers!
Nice. Thanks bro.
Thank you! Perfect first try
Love it , just my DY for tomorrow!
Gorgeous! Love these tips!
Helped a lot, thank you very much !
great knowledge, tips and info man. just found ya, and love the content already! keep it up!
Thank you for all your tips! I have a 1997 Dodge poplar 190. Tinted windows in the front. Well I definitely know I'm going to be sealing around the absolute window which is metal, and then the inside has the rubber next to the glass (not sure what I'm going to do around the rubber part)
Do you have any videos on Windows on RVs?
So much easier on a workbench than trying to fit into what people call toilet closets.
Good information all around.
A rounded damp sponge is also good for clean and minor corrections to the finished bead.
The explanation to push instead of pull should also be used around surfaces with larger gaps. Between windows, frames, trim and walls.
Using a small cut hole is good for the finished look between counters and back splashes etc.
This was very helpful!