Ford Maverick XL DIY Hidden Wireless Charger Clean Install
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ส.ค. 2022
- For about $370 less than the Ford part, I added a cleanly installed QI charger to my XL trim Ford Maverick. Hope this is helpful to you.
Parts:
www.amazon.com/dp/B07PP913DB?...
www.amazon.com/dp/B09P5YWSKK?...
www.amazon.com/dp/B08QTYDYPX?...
Fuse Tap in Slot #3:
flic.kr/p/2og6FVV - เกม
Thanks, man! This is awesome! If/when I get my Maverick, I'm definitely following your install. Very clean tutorial for a very clean installation.
Easily the cleanest install for one of these. My22 is scheduled for production on the 12th and delivery in a month. Exactly what I was looking for!
I just ordered an xl hybrid, I like the way you think. Cheap and DIY , me too .
Did this to my truck. Worked perfect. Thanks.
Do you get a constant charge? Mine is intermittent. Did you pull power from fuse number 3?
Fantastic video Chris. Thank you.
Thanks for the video and congratulations for the idea!
Great idea and we'll put together video. I've got the xlt on its slow way. I might do just this. Very cool idea.
You just saved me a few hundred. Was actually going to give Ford the money for the wireless charging until I saw this.👍🏾
Now I can try doing this, thanks.
just gonna do this for every car i own from now on.
Just wanted to say thanks for the tutorial. Followed the same steps and works in my hybrid xlt lux. The wireless charging works through the orange tray liner too! The adhesive is different now on the linked charging pad, but still works.
Next project is to use the other outlet on this new tap for my dashcam
Do you get a constant charge? Mine is intermittent. Did you pull power from fuse number 3?
@@rickyboyd2919 hey ricky, mine constantly charges with both my iphone and android phones. I pulled power from fuse 3.
i do recall the wireless charging pad port being loose with certain usb C cables so i used one with a larger plug sheathe. also i remember installing into the fuse 3 slot was a bit tricky, so maybe try to unplug and replug back in to make sure theres a solid connect.
best of luck amigo, i hope it goes well
@@MrKonDumb Thanks for the reply. I’m not sure exactly what’s up with mine. I’ll check the connections.
@@rickyboyd2919not sure if you figured it out but I would check how snug your connection to the crimp connector is. I had a hard time making sure I could get a tight connection there so I ended up just using a wire nut instead. The positive wire for the USB connector is pretty small.
Sweet Chris! That's super cool!
Thanks Gary! Miss you guys!
@@chrisdunning6144 Y'all too! :)
I will be doing this soon
Wow dude great video. Love the thrift
Awesome diy
Cool. Great job
great work !
Hey! Thank you for this tutorial, I've been at it for 30 mins now and think I need to get a new 12V adapter. Took me a minute to figure out the fuse slipped out of the wire... that was fun to debug.
I am getting 14.55 volts from slot 3 to the 12v adapter, hopefully this isnt too much of a problem. The adapter I used only had QC3 usb-A coming out and I thought a usbA to C cord would work.
So now I am getting a new 12V adapter and hopefully this works.
Everything else was just as straight forward as you described, panels caming off, tapping the fuse, grounding the wire, etc.
Great job
Glad you found a cheap and easy workaround. I really doubt Ford sells a lot of those $450 kits. Since I like using navigation, I need to plug in to cable anyway which charges my phone at the same time so I can’t really justify doing this but great job on the video!
wireless carplay/android auto device from Amazon also, then no need to plug the phone in for anything.
Solid.
You can get an add a fuse at O'Riley's
Nice "Pray" reminder!!
Nice !
Did you make a video how you did the spray on
I want to think it was about $120 for me to add the wireless charger and to make my car play work wirelessly as well. I just got 90 degree USB plugs, the 12v plug wireless charge pad and a car play Bluetooth. I’m thinking the CarPlay Bluetooth was $80. Granted my wireless charge pad is on top but a lil hot glue, 2 sided tape and Velcro and it’s clean enough for me and no wires all over the place.
Fuking Win! Good on you. Would do that same.
Thanks for this video. Did you plug into the QC3.0 or QC4.0 port on the charge socket to connect to USB-C on the charging pad?
I had a spare usb-a to usb-c cable so I used QC3.0 but was wondering if I should go buy just a USB-C cable and use the QC4.0 port?
Love this DIY, super simple. Tons of space to work with beneath the center tray area.
I tried both with roughly the same charge speeds on my iPhone. If you’re using an android phone, the QC4 port may deliver faster charging, but the iPhone doesn’t support it, so I just stuck with the QC3 port. I have plans for another accessory that may benefit demo the QC4 port later.
I am at work and didn’t watch the video with audio so maybe you already answered this question, but does this work with the organizer the truck comes with? The one that normally holds the phone in that space?
Yes. It will charge through the original rubber liner or most materials up to 15mm thick.
I’m waiting for a Maverick which is in transit about 3 months now. Still in Burnham IL. Does anyone know how to get this moving? It’s already built and supposedly on its way.
OK so questions: you mentioned that the fuse position you chose controlls the auto dimming headlights....what happens to the lights when you've removed that fuse?
And 2 what was the issue with the original USB port? I just want to make sure I choose the right parts for my truck. Great vid tho!
So, the fuse tap shares the fuse with the headlight functionality, and you don't lose anything for using the tap in that location. They continue to function normally. It's sort of like adding a fuse (if you look closely, you can see that there are two fuses in the end of the tap). For the USB choice, the first unit I ordered had a switch to control whether or not the ports on the front were powered. The one I ended up installing and share in the earlier part of the video doesn't have a switch on it and is always powered when the truck is powered on. Probably didn't make a huge difference in the long run, as it's unlikely the switch would have ever jostled "off", but I figured fewer possible ways it could stop working without me intervening would be better.
Could you 3D print a mount that fits in the little cubby next to the multimedia screen? Maybe to hold a phone for drive or passenger? Or a small tablet, etc?
Yea you can. They're on the Etsy app
thanks for the tips did this on my 2024 XLT but i will say the wireless chargers too slow for me lol its more a maintance thing
Just came across this and am looking to do it myself pretty soon. Had to get a different charging port as the one you have linked is no longer available. Couple of things I didn't see in the video - does the tap need two fuses? One for the new circuit, and the existing one from slot 3? What size fuse do you put for the new circuit - 10A as well? Also, how did you secure the USB socket? Does it just rattle around inside the console? Oh, and where is the 12V battery to disconnect on the Ecoboost?
Yes. You'll want two fuses, both 10 AMP. Using the original is just fine. My socket is not mounted to anything on the inside, but it does hover because of the way that I wrapped my USB cord inside of the console, you may want to mount it with 3M mounting tape, though my experience is that it doesn't move around or make noise under the console as is. For the eco-boost, your battery should be under the hood.
Just finished hooking it up! The outlet I bought had two USB sockets, so I may hide my wireless Android Auto dongle in there too. Thanks for a super clear and easy to follow video.
Guy, make sure you orientate those fuse taps the correct direction, there is a line and load side for the fuse block and not all fuses are the same.
Thank you. Yes, it is installed in the correct orientation. Nearly two years into use at this point, though I’ve recently switched out for a MagSafe adapter that I’ve 3d printed a cradle for and installed in the same space using the same USB ports I installed in this video.
When it’s wireless does that connect to Apple Car Play? I’ll be doing this to mine as well thanks for the help!
I actually have a wireless airplay adapter I use for that. Mine is the OTTOCAST version. I use a right angle USB cable that I run out of sight behind the dash.
Thank you for posting this video. I did this mod last week to my 2022 Maverick XLT FX4. I did find I had to reorient the fuse tap in slot 3 to enable it to connect but did so successfully. The mod worked perfectly; however, I now have a dead battery. My truck is a bit over 2 years old so may be coincidence. I'm wondering if you have experienced any battery drain using tap 3? My USB QC3 adapter has a blue light that turns on when it is powered and this is only lit with the ACC is on or engine is running. This may be a coincidence but concerns me obviously.
It shouldn’t be responsible for the battery issue. I’ve been running with my setup for about a year and a half with no battery issues. It’s almost certainly coincidental, but I’d check to ensure that the terminal cables are solidly connected on your battery (assuming you disconnected while installing) as a loose terminal cable can sometimes behave the same as a dead battery, and possibly make sure you’ve followed up on the harness recall if you have a hybrid like I do.
Were you able to identify any other possible causes?
@@chrisdunning6144 Thank you. I suspect it is also something else. I replaced the battery yesterday and will be testing for a leak this weekend. Checked all other connections including the terminal cables. The battery was tested and definitely dead. I plan to check the amp draw with and without the mod connected to verify and see if any other leaks exist. I have other mods in the car such as the Kia auto dimming mirror and ambient lighting. Those have been in for months but plan to verify those as well. I agree it makes no sense given Fuse 3 is off when the truck is off.
Just curious ... did you consider wiring the wireless pad straight to the "add-a-tap" fuse without the use of a USB plug connection in the middle? Would that be possible?
I considered it, but given the specifications of the pad, I wasn't sure about bypassing something that would regulate the voltage and amps with the smarts that the USB plug has built in. It may work just fine, but given that the charger comes with a plug that specifies its charging rate I figured it was better to ensure something was between the fuse and the pad to regulate it.
@@chrisdunning6144 Makes sense. Thanks.
Are you avail for hire to do this? Near Virginia? Thanks
Where is that USB cable going that you have plugged into the native USB-A port?
It's connected to a wireless CarPlay adapter. It came with a 3M adhesive pad that sticks it up underneath there. I've actually got a 90º usb cable running to it now.
I'm thinking of doing this mod myself. So you only disconnected the 12v battery located underneath the rear passenger seats? Or did you also disconnect the battery in the front hood? Thanks for the video!
If you have a hybrid, you’ll disconnect under the back seat. The 12v terminals under the hood are actually extensions of this batter, and when it’s disconnected, they are disconnected. If you have the ecoboost, you’ll disconnect under the hood.
@@chrisdunning6144 I didn't know that. Thanks!
Is there a way to utilize the second usb port to add a port inside the arm rest console?
You could almost certainly run a USB make to USB female cable through the armrest and down to the location of the port. they make them specifically with cars in mind. You’d need to make a rough hole in the location where you’d want it, and the trim around the plug would give it a fairly clean look. Search for “male to female usb cable car and boat” on Amazon and look for the length you’d need.
Can you make a video of how you made your bedliner?
I wish I’d documented it. I may try and put something together in the coming days. Was so excited to get it done that I didn’t document it well. Hindsight is 20/20.
@@chrisdunning6144 I picked up a Maverick and asked for bed liner to be added, but they forgot. It was also going to take longer to make :-\
Interesting however when I clicked on it I was hoping it was a way to charge the hybrid battery without the gas engine making the vehicle plug in electric or hybrid.
Sorry about that! So, the hybrid battery is big, but I’m not sure it would be useful as a PHEV given its comparative size to actual PHEVs. But that would be a very interesting project, well out of my zone of expertise.
Does this also allow apple car play?
That is an EXCELLENT hack. I may decide to do that myself.
Do you happen to know about the mobile internet link your truck has and how to locate the SIM? I paid cash for my truck and opted to NOT have the hot spot service. Turns out the sharing service is optional but the active mobile network is NOT. I do not like and I do not trust. I want to disable it by removing the SIM. And yes, I know that does not fully disable a mobile network connection... I'll get more inventive if I need to later.
Do you know if this works with the orange insert on the XLT?
It absolutely would. The charger can charge through a desktop, so the console liner/tray won’t be an issue.
Great video. My maverick is getting built now so I’m thinking of doing this. Could you also just plug the wireless charger into one of the usb ports on the truck? Of so any reason of doing it the way you did? Just curious.
Sure! The only downside is the cables being more visible and the USB ports maybe not delivering power enough for the higher speed wireless charging options. I’m a little nit-picky about those details, but would fault anyone for going the other route.
*would not fault
Sorry that was a typo.
@@NewbergChurchofChrist thanks for the quick response! I’m the same I can’t sand messy wires all over. I will go your route when I get my maverick but was just curious. Thanks again 👍🏻
Whoops! Didn’t realize I was logged into the wrong account when I replied. 🤣
@@chrisdunning6144 lol I didn’t even notice. One more question I was looking at the charger you linked and in the description pic it looks like the power wire is hardwired right onto the power block instead of having a usb plug. Did yours come like that or does it also have a usb powering cable included?
Why do you want to add wireless charging? Isnt it way faster to charge it with a wire?
That's a valid question. I don't really like power cables in the cabin of my vehicle (or much of anything else for that matter), as I feel it tends to look a bit cluttered, and often feels to me like it's in the way. This is a solution that allows me to avoid cable mess; sip a bit of power while driving from A to B; and utilize my cubby space for the things it was designed for, but not implemented in my trim level. It also helps that I'm very rarely low enough on battery for a charge in my vehicle to be an urgent situation.
The usb adapter is out of stock on Amazon, can you recommend an alternative with the correct volts and amps...Thanks
Sorry for the late reply. This one would probably do it for you: www.amazon.com/Charger-Socket-Waterproof-Delivery-Motorcycle/dp/B08SQW7CQ8/ref=sxin_17_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.ea7393e3-de5f-4d19-84a5-8c5fb5c68d5f%3Aamzn1.sym.ea7393e3-de5f-4d19-84a5-8c5fb5c68d5f&crid=12T4EYSEJ8O3Y&cv_ct_cx=12v+to+usb+pd&keywords=12v+to+usb+pd&pd_rd_i=B08SQW7CQ8&pd_rd_r=03e63800-43e9-4bfe-9b4d-6148bad24225&pd_rd_w=f3XOJ&pd_rd_wg=LrMVl&pf_rd_p=ea7393e3-de5f-4d19-84a5-8c5fb5c68d5f&pf_rd_r=J4QDN0QG2JMXTX5CECVP&qid=1683264807&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=12v+to+usb+pd%2Caps%2C395&sr=1-3-2b34d040-5c83-4b7f-ba01-15975dfb8828-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExNUVYREI4MUZONk4mZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAxMjA3NTcxQUozVzVJOFVKRlhRJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA5OTIxMjQxOUNMTzNXSzdOU0laJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3Bfc2VhcmNoX3RoZW1hdGljJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
Anything rated as “PD” or “QC 3” will be sufficient.
I have an alternative to your charger port (since your linked one was sold out) but mine is qc4. Also I ordered the wireless charger from your link but the one received is square. Your video was great and it works kinda. But sometimes it seems to quit charging and sometimes on/off/on/off continually. Moving the phone doesn’t change anything. It’s like it’s just barely got enough power going to it. I tried directly on top before sticking it under the console and similar behavior. I was just wondering if your set up is sometime intermittent?
@@rickyboyd2919 Mine is constant. Couple things I might suggest checking out:
Make sure all of your connections are solid. Sometimes the connectors that are provided with these aftermarket vehicle USB plugs are kind of loose or flimsy. Check on the plug end, check on the fuse end. Make sure that your fuse is well seated, too.
I'm sorry about the sold-out status and changes on some of these parts. That's one frustrating thing about Amazon product links, you never know if they'll stay available or consistent with what you bought for yourself.
I'd be cautious about putting the phone directly on the pad itself, as the manual for my charger was very clear that direct contact could be bad for the QI mechanism in the device being charged. I can't speak for other charging pads like the one in this video, but I have two of this exact pad, and one of them is used to charge through an inch and a half of particle board.
@@chrisdunning6144 Thanks Chris. Mine is constant now too, turns out my phone had an issue. I finally realized that when it wouldn’t charge on a wireless charger in the house. I did a complete shut down and it’s worked consistently ever since. Thanks for the method, process and tool list. I’m using the factory orange rubber insert too.
Did you add the cruise control to your 2022 XL??? I'm highly considering it
Yes. I have an aftermarket kit, but there’s a part of me that has considered buying the parts necessary for the “on wheel” official Ford cruise control.
@@chrisdunning6144 What's the difference exactly???
@@mikeysfishingfuntime5070 The aftermarket is an additional "paddle" below the turn signal paddle. Takes some wiring in, but doesn't require any messing with FORScan. The official Ford cruise control is a little more involved, the cruise control buttons are all on the face of the wheel, and you need to do some additional poking around in the vehicle's software using FORScan.
@@chrisdunning6144 Do Ford dealerships install these now????
@@mikeysfishingfuntime5070 I think it's a case by case situation. Likely depends on your dealership, but speaking with our local service center when I was in for a recall they said they would have.
Has the adhesive failed?
Mine seems to be holding up fine. If it does at some point, I may opt for 3M mounting tape, but no issues so far.
@@chrisdunning6144 Just picked up my Maverick last night! Any problems with the adhesive in the last two months?
Call me crazy but that doesn't look like it's installed into slot 3. I know I can't fit my tap into #3 in the correct orientation with that black harness there.
Yes. In the footage in the video I installed it in the other slot. Moved it to slot 3 after the fact. I've just dropped a link to a picture in the video description showing what that looks like.
witch xl 2.0 or 2.5
Mine is the hybrid 2.5, but the fuse box and wiring I shared for this mod will work on any non-wireless charger equipped Maverick.