@@blastworks I have BOTH, and like the fairings better. helps in inclement weather and significantly reduces wind buffeting. I do like the Standard too though.
@@h.wayneb3495 it's the very top one listed when you click on the repair manuals link at top of my website; the file name is "1980 - 1983 Honda Goldwing GL1100.pdf"
The bottom line for sure is to change the cambelts if you don't know when they were last done. What they look like doesn't matter. Even ancient belts can look in good nick. I found my 1981 had Gates belts fitted so I checked with the previous owner and he fitted them when he acquired the bike, so I knew when they were done.
The 82 does not have linked brakes like the 83 does. After 82 Goldwings came with linked braking systems whereby the rear and front left were paired to brake by the foot pedal. The 82 has a dual shared input from the handle brake thru a split diffuser and the brake caliper pistons are 30mm both sides FYI. On the linked system the right front has 25 mm pistons and the left is 33 mm paired with the rear of same diameter. If I remember correctly the rear is a single piston while the front left is dual piston. The problem you avoid in 82 is the braking proportioning valve on the linked system is no longer available. No worries on the 82 with that. 80/81 had single piston brakes. (yea and a different dadgum size as well. (Even honda had trouble keeping the parts correct on the assembly lines in 83 ..ugh.) Anyway I've owned 81 thru 83 years so I've become accustomed to the weirdness there. On my 83 the proportioning valve was bad so I bought an adjustable one and dialed it in close enough to the 60/40 split that it functions perfectly (Wilwood 4444/30 260-11179 Proportioning Valve ). Left that comment for the content uploader............just in case he may need it. Rebuilt and restored an 82 Aspencade but did a naked version (Standard of those years) and used new Speedo/tacho/oil pressure and fuel gauges because I hate that 7V regulator for the fuel oil meters in the HUD. Got rid of them and placed the new gauges in the false tank upper lid. Wished I could upload a pic to show you, it looks good. 1 Downside is the wind buffeting, I really like the fairings stopping that. I'm in the middle of repainting my 83 so it's all stripped off.
@@anonimous2451 I didn't get it..... Brakes were such that I couldn't ride it home.... Calipers kept locking up. Almost dumped it on a u turn ... He told me after it had been sitting!!
@@philt98569 I never go look to ride a bike home. I may test ride it but always trailer it back. Mostly cause every seller is a fantastic LIAR and I do not trust em. And I buy rebuildable bikes, not ridable bikes. Brakes are one of the easiest things to fix. EXCEPT the linked braking system SMH...... :(
@@philt98569 Would LOVE to know where it is located. I have 2 in the process of rebuilding this winter and adding another one will have stock fully ready for spring for sale.....
Hi, is it important to make the mark on the crankshaft? Looking to change my belts and the manual doesn't say anything about that specific marking. I don't know anything about the GL1100, I'm learning a lot, just don't want to screw up. Thanks for the video!
I always do this to be safe. Since this is an interference engine, if anything is out of whack, you can destroy your valvetrain. If you mark everything before removing belts and ensure those markings are lined up when you put your new belts on, you can't go wrong!
Nice, but you should have changed the idlers and tensioners as well. Then you know you don't have to touch that end of it for a while. Just my opinion....
I hear ya Joe, but these were in like new shape. They were probably done when the belts were last done which appears to be within the last few thousand kilometers, so I made the call to stick with the existing tensioners.
Fired right up!! Doing my barn find now. 1981 GL1100 interstate barn find. Last ran in 2009. Runs now!! thanks
That's awesome to hear! Hopefully the old bike gives you as many miles of joy as mine has me!
You posting the manual on your website is going to save me so much time and headache in the future. Thank you🙏🏼
Gotcha brotha!
Hell yeah! Gold wing! my dream bike.
I'm starting to love the bike too! Especially without the fairings!
@@blastworks I have BOTH, and like the fairings better. helps in inclement weather and significantly reduces wind buffeting. I do like the Standard too though.
Awesome video!
Thanks a bunch diggidan!
Thank you, nice work appreciate you sharing. No luck on seeing manual ? it must be gone now It seems
@@h.wayneb3495 it's the very top one listed when you click on the repair manuals link at top of my website; the file name is "1980 - 1983 Honda Goldwing GL1100.pdf"
@@blastworks thank you, got it. I have a 1983 Standard that I put a Vetter SS fairing on. Appreciate access to the manual.
@@h.wayneb3495 no sweat my friend, anything to help a fellow winger!
The bottom line for sure is to change the cambelts if you don't know when they were last done. What they look like doesn't matter. Even ancient belts can look in good nick. I found my 1981 had Gates belts fitted so I checked with the previous owner and he fitted them when he acquired the bike, so I knew when they were done.
Wow!! That sounds incredible!! Going to look at an 82 on Sat. Hopefully it will sound remotely close to that!! Awesome video!
Thanks Artie! I'm after making a few slight changes to the bike since I uploaded this video! Hopefully you'll get to see it in an upcoming vid!
The 82 does not have linked brakes like the 83 does. After 82 Goldwings came with linked braking systems whereby the rear and front left were paired to brake by the foot pedal. The 82 has a dual shared input from the handle brake thru a split diffuser and the brake caliper pistons are 30mm both sides FYI. On the linked system the right front has 25 mm pistons and the left is 33 mm paired with the rear of same diameter. If I remember correctly the rear is a single piston while the front left is dual piston. The problem you avoid in 82 is the braking proportioning valve on the linked system is no longer available. No worries on the 82 with that. 80/81 had single piston brakes. (yea and a different dadgum size as well. (Even honda had trouble keeping the parts correct on the assembly lines in 83 ..ugh.) Anyway I've owned 81 thru 83 years so I've become accustomed to the weirdness there. On my 83 the proportioning valve was bad so I bought an adjustable one and dialed it in close enough to the 60/40 split that it functions perfectly (Wilwood 4444/30 260-11179 Proportioning Valve ). Left that comment for the content uploader............just in case he may need it. Rebuilt and restored an 82 Aspencade but did a naked version (Standard of those years) and used new Speedo/tacho/oil pressure and fuel gauges because I hate that 7V regulator for the fuel oil meters in the HUD. Got rid of them and placed the new gauges in the false tank upper lid. Wished I could upload a pic to show you, it looks good. 1 Downside is the wind buffeting, I really like the fairings stopping that. I'm in the middle of repainting my 83 so it's all stripped off.
@@anonimous2451 I didn't get it..... Brakes were such that I couldn't ride it home.... Calipers kept locking up. Almost dumped it on a u turn ... He told me after it had been sitting!!
@@philt98569 I never go look to ride a bike home. I may test ride it but always trailer it back. Mostly cause every seller is a fantastic LIAR and I do not trust em. And I buy rebuildable bikes, not ridable bikes. Brakes are one of the easiest things to fix. EXCEPT the linked braking system SMH...... :(
@@philt98569 Would LOVE to know where it is located. I have 2 in the process of rebuilding this winter and adding another one will have stock fully ready for spring for sale.....
Should do the valve stem oil seals when you do the belts. As the belts have to come off again.
I did do them in a follow up video.
Thank you so much for this video!
Thanks Will123Ben!
Hi, is it important to make the mark on the crankshaft? Looking to change my belts and the manual doesn't say anything about that specific marking. I don't know anything about the GL1100, I'm learning a lot, just don't want to screw up. Thanks for the video!
I always do this to be safe. Since this is an interference engine, if anything is out of whack, you can destroy your valvetrain. If you mark everything before removing belts and ensure those markings are lined up when you put your new belts on, you can't go wrong!
Bonjour. Où avez vous acheté vos courroies ? Merci d'avance
J'ai acheté mes courroies sur fortnine.ca !
Is there a risk that the valve will stick to the piston if it is poorly engaged?
Not that I'm aware of!
Why are there so many of these bikes just sitting around
Nice, but you should have changed the idlers and tensioners as well.
Then you know you don't have to touch that end of it for a while.
Just my opinion....
I hear ya Joe, but these were in like new shape. They were probably done when the belts were last done which appears to be within the last few thousand kilometers, so I made the call to stick with the existing tensioners.
I see what your saying, hey $500 that's just under £300 it's the bargin of a lifetime...
Anyway best of luck and happy motoring.
Bro where did you change the coolant?
I reinstall the rad and refill the coolant around the 22 minute mark. Draining the coolant took place the same time the rad was removed.
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