Installing a Load-Bearing Beam
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ม.ค. 2019
- Today we make a Window Opening Bigger. There will be a sweet, full span, bifold door going in here too!
Stay tuned for that.
Music by Casey Calhoun
www.caseycalhounbeats.com/
goo.gl/qJQMOs
Disclaimer: These videos are intended to provide information and inspiration only. If you choose to imitate, duplicate or copy anything you may have observed in these videos, you do so at your own risk. Scott Brown Carpentry Ltd does not take any responsibility for any action taken as a result of the information or advice on this TH-cam channel and shall not have any liability in respect of any injury or damage that may result. To view full disclaimer, click here: www.scottbrowncarpentry.com/d... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![ชวนน้องลงทุ่ง - เงาะน้อยเพชรบ้านแพง X น้องมายด์ [ Music Video ] Official Saman Music](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Bq7Hw9culjE/mqdefault.jpg)
Man I am obsessed with these things. You’re so chill and together, it’s lovely.
These vids are great, not often i see good content from NZ!! I have never really been exposed to building so this is interesting and helpful !!
thanks for taking the time to make nice videos. I thouroughly enjoy watching these!
That nice wide opening being load bearing is such a beautiful sight!
Once again done good job brother. Ur planning and execution too good. And that one hammer is nice brother.
Have been watching your videos and I like them... I live in Barbados... I will use them when I'm going work in my work shop.
Love the channel bro- excellent work!
Bloody awesome job lads!
Just subscribed! Love watching your vids been binging on them all weekend, enrolled onto a carpenter/block work course now too as I've been proper inspired!
Looks good guys, nice and clean. I see nothing wrong with this. The header is twice the size of the previous two headers. It'll all carry that load just fine.
You make it look so easy.
Awesome as always
unbelievable easy guild to make a perfect tiny house..a*After making the purchase I got all the shed plans and woodworking blueprints within 5 minutes. And the great thing is that I got the product for a lower price as there are no shipping costs which is really affordable justu.faith However, if you prefer buying the CD then you can buy this Shed Plans with extra benefit!*
Great to see Paerau wearing his timber gloves! Scott get amongst it please 😊
Cut through studs at an angle then the two parts always separate without binding.
Nerve wracking stuff. Rad hammer 😄👊
Great job 👍always enjoy watching your videos!
Another great vid scott always watch yours vids and get some great tips from you
Smidgey88 yeah it's mean aye
I enjoyed you showing the making of the thumbnail.
Awesome job lads
For some reason TH-cam recommended this video now even though I’m subscribed to your changer a while now.
i had to re-watch pareau hammer that nail through the tiny whole like 10 times...legend.
Man I can help but to admire how much fun you guys have truly inspires me being from the US everyone is at each others neck in this trade
So far,so good very satisfied used it twice. Love it
Awesome video even though it's 2 years old great thank you thank you keep up the hard work even though I know you're on lockdown keep the faith keep smiling be positive stand up where you can sending you love light and peace 🙂🙂🙂
Love you work Scotty honestly. If that was a house in Australia and the carpenter was removing the windows, wall etc. They would have left those doors off until the new window was installed and the house would had cold blowing wind and cold air throughout. Virtually been unlivable.
Ahh don't think so, we do these all the time and do exactly what the boys did, or sheet it in ply until the doors arrive, sounds like your in QLD 🤣🤣
Yea, don't compare some half asses you may have hired on the cheap to the rest of us. There's dickbags in every trade in every country.
Great stuff man
Awesome vids mate! Cheers
Nothing better then unwinding with the jefé and drinking a beer before him.
Clever guys!!😎
Question: to support trusses in double brick garage , a temporary timber wall is installed. Does it need to be full height, to top plate or to underside of garage beam?
Beam me up Scotty!
Awesome!
Carter is ready with the brew!
When he says pareau I always think he's saying potter lol!
awesome videos! I'm learning lots of carpentry tricks. But I'm commenting now because the music samples an old Errol Garner concert, which is awesome. How do you find so much great musical content for background?
Hay Scott where did the boys get their apron suspenders from? cheers mate
That was epic gents!
How big is the span? I’m surprised a 2 ply is enough. How did you figure that out?
Let me ask you what you do with the discharged wodd you cutt off.. Burn them, studs and pieces of the removed frames go to a tipping trailer or dump tuck, you re-sell the chops or any recycling process is mandatory in NZ? Thanks Scott (and team) !
Hey Scott could you do a video about the new Estwing al pro aluminium hammer and rate it??? Im keen to get one but can't find a video that really talks about it , so not sure if I can trust it.... Cheers
Love the hammer, do you fancy sending one over the pond to the UK?
Should you not be doubling up both the king studs, in as much as you've removed load-bearing members and transferred that weight to the existing king studs?
I was shocked not to see an LVL timber. The engineers around here throw them everywhere. I have faith your timber will hold.
Those steel posts were fancy. I only ever got to use 2x4 / 2x6 to build a wall when I had to make a new opening.
LVL are also used here everywhere, but for that sized opening they used 2 x 290x45 which is more than enough as it looks to only have a tin roof
It looks like the equivalent to 2x12, which im sure will span that, just thought he would definitely need to add at least one jack on each side
It looks the same to me!!
No shorts for me! On Sunday the daily high is expected to be -25 with the low at -30. Monday should warm up to -23.
You should make a whole video of Paerau out takes!
The barefoot construction, you mad lad.lol Pro :P
At 6.58 looks like your putting in a load bearing stud, I thought it was supposed to be replaced by an all window type design, I'm about to have the same and the main reason for this job was to remove my center support. I must be missing something?
J'adore tes vidéos, dommage qu'elles ne soient pas traduite en français sous titré
Do you have enough strength in the single jack stud? Or would you need to add another one?
Was thinking the same thing. I'm assuming the jack studs works be string enough. Judging by the plans at the start it was looked at by an entire so must be all good
Great job, but what was wrong with it to start with?
Talented
scott tell me you put more nails on that support beam than what is saw on the video, great video bud...
Could you have used piece solid of timber 4x10 or 4x12 instead ?
Man I’d love to come work with you guys
Paerau's money shot - while wearing sunnies inside!
if you ever work in the UK, mainly Devon i`d love to buy you guys a beer..
i know u have been asked a 100 times probably but what is the pink on your lumber what is it treated for
This type of job you have to make sure that maths and physics are correct and your insurance is up to date - just in case
What kind of dust mask is that mate?
so you guys cut out the main support and put it back in before install the door? Is there a reason why not just leaving it be?
Walk my way
And a thousand violins begin to play
Or it might be the sound of your hello
That music I hear
I get misty the moment you're near
is a 16-foot beam the longest it can go? what happens if the wall is like 20-25 feet wide? thanks
Why... did you take the supports out before you put the replacement post in? Brackets for the new beam... is, must be there, I just don't see it. I hope that is the case.
That attic needs some more insulation.
Where did u get that hammer?
Another stud each side supporting the lvl might have been used here
I would say the same but all you need is one. I use 2
My perfect neighbor!!
I honestly have no idea and am only asking because I am interested. Did an engineer create the plans for this? It looks like you went from 4 studs carrying the load down to 2 studs. I was also wondering if you had to add additional support underneath the remaining two studs as you went from 3 point loads to 2.
yeah wtf is going on here. that hut will fall down soon
There isn't that great of a load being carried here. Single story roof and only a handful of the trusses. 1 1/2" is all the bearing you need in this case (each side). The center bearing was basically just a divider for the doors. Could have been built as they are doing now if they wanted. I'd have to look again, but looks like he had a set of plans under his notepad that would have been approved for this project.
The double 2x12 bearing on two sticks more than covers the load of the trusses above (which is the only weight that wall is carrying, it's really not much. Its just the tail ends of the trusses, shingles and the soffits.). Typically for something like this, we normally double up the sticks underneath; however, we normally work on two storey homes where there's a lot more weight bearing on the header of the sliding patio doors. Everything is determined by local code and inspectors. I am 100% sure Scott wouldn't have posted this if he hadn't gotten an engineer's approval. Great work Scott and Pareau!
"Does it look like im really fuckin buildin?" hahahahaha
Ur the best
Whats the pink stuff on their timber about
I really like your pink wood :)
Was wondering why is the wood pink?
Obviously depends on the load force but would a glulam beam be better suited for such a span ?
The engineers sure think so.
safety glasses?
Is this paraus house?
Love it when a day goes smoothly and to plan, still don't understand how sparkeys and plumber's get paid more than we do 😂
Maybe they do by the hour, but If you put 12% on top of them, you'll be doing better.
If it will fall down, and you live in the NZ. Than from my point of view in the UK it will fall up?
🤔
I had this convo just last night with my UK fam that are visiting us here in ellerslie. "Does it freak you out that everyone you know is upside down?". They had to think about it.
Nah man earth is flat
earth is flat
They have different gravity there.
Watch the water swirl down the drain in the other direction....it’s mesmerizing.
SQUIRREL!!
surprised the original headers in that wall were only 2x6
Those are windows?
Nice work Scotty
So much unseen work going into these videos making it look easy. Love your work
Just wondering as a NZ'er, how much a job like this would approximately cost from a tradesman. (Just installing a load bearing beam) not the trimmings.
We have to use LVL beams for those spans...What's with the pink wood?
That is the treatment process in New Zealand. Turns the timber pink.
Hey guys did u need a consent or code of compliance?
How do.you know what size beam to use ?
Timber lintels are not an option any more in the UK and you're only allowed over engineered steel that weighs a ton and takes forever to install. Wood is so much nicer to work with esp when you don't really need steel.
I am surprised by the small ledge carrying the weight of the new beam.
In a lot of places that wide of an opening would require double trimmers....
Building codes I know would require double sometimes triple trimmers depending on the span and size but this is also NZ and they seem pretty lack on codes.
@@jamess5872 www.standards.govt.nz/sponsored-standards/building-standards/nzs3604/
Do you need consent to remove a load bearing wall and install a 240x90 beam with an opening of 3.6m?
Hi Scott, new subscriber love your channel just wondering if you put any more studs either side to support the beam?
Wouldn't need it as there was already a double stud then an opening/under stud on that 2
@@MrHianga yeah see what you're saying however after removing 4 studs that were laminated together acting like a main support for the beam i thought they wouldve needed 1 extra either side. But seeing the size of the new beams laminated together to span the opening the width of it is the difference.
@@deanno7067 yip exactly right. The width of the 10x2 is the key and bow up. Strap vracing routed into studs that will stich studs n beam together. Then you can put cpc brackets or strap bracing from beam to top plate and bottom cord of the truss but bit of an over kill.
@@MrHianga I'm not an engineer but I can almost guarantee there should have been double under studs out of LVL as that single line stud is taking heaps of extra load.
@@MrDeano-eu9rgI can understand your point, that there is the most commonly used method in nz for any door or window opening, as there was already a door there the depth of the lintel is what's taking the weight, the diaphragm of the French door also helps with rigidity..putting another understud does nothing..the only other reason it would be added would be subject to engineering specifications submitted into the plans and specs..to add another under stud would mean to rip decking up, put more piles in and joists directly underneath the opening to take the weight for a stud each side, when there's already 1 there in the same spot..the load that those middle studs that were extracted is now transferred to wider/bigger lintel installed, then transferred to the exact same place as the original opening and under studs to joist, to bearer, to the post, to the ground..hope that clears it up
☝🏻👍🏻
Why the pink on your lumber?
Great content mate, wish I could wear shorts to work but there’s snow here in edinburgh 😂
Nice work but I would have liked to see you protect the homeowner's property with at least cheap plastic.
full send bro never lift!
Hi Scott I'm from UK do all work like you great vids...how com you you ain't gone for the dewalt nail guns I had paslodes but I've changed to dewalt best thing I done
Could you use an I-beam or, even better, LVL beam instead of wide timber?
100% you could. We typically would use LVL, 2 or 3 or even 4 ply laminated together sometimes, depending on the load & engineer's recommendations. Another option would be a steel beam (bit more costly, but can take a greater load & is more stable over time). From Toronto
@@mattchibi LVL is a must 300mm x 62mmand for your info it's more stable than metal
LVL is a must 300mm x 62mmand for your info it's more stable than metal
@leon baydoun Hey man- you're not completely wrong! LVL is not stronger than Structural Steel though- LVL carries much less load than a steal beam could; however, there are still some advantages to using LVL beams. Let me explain:
Yes LVL is 2 x 12 typically, but can span to as big as 2" x 23-7/8". We will typically pack a few of them together to create massive wooden beam- as per engineer specs. Yes- I do prefer working with LVL, over steel beam- LVL is much lighter, and easier to cut & move.
However- structural steel I-beams are typically much stronger and can carry a much bigger load- allowing for larger open spaces that you wouldn't be able to achieve with any wood construction. Steel is typically MUCH more expensive due to the difficulty that comes from moving and installing the heavy beams.
That being said- the main difference is when you introduce fire to them. Steel has a melting point of 1300~ F; and while most data shows that house fires only reach 1100~ F- it has been shown from more modern studies (and my personal experience) that due to the excessive amounts of plastics/synthetics/foams that is very popular in modern furniture (such as mattresses, couches, etc) that house fires can reach much higher temps- closer to 1500+ F. Even at the lower 1100 F temps, steel's main deficiency is that it will weaken over time, before it eventually buckles on itself. That being said- it would take minimum around 15-25 minutes of intense fire before that steel beam fails.
The main reason I say that LVL is less "stable" is because we typically use LVL beams in conjunction with other wooden construction materials. All wooden materials (even LVL) can shrink as moisture dissipates. This can cause your beam to shift out of level ever so slightly (we're talking 1/4" to 1/2" over 30' at most) after it has already been installed. This is much less likely to happen with steel beams, as it typically rests on an other vertical steel beam that sits over the concrete foundation, and the joints are locked permanently after welding. Hope that helps!
Sorry to expand- in comparison, wood beams when exposed to fire will have a reaction on the surface called "charring" that blackens and hardens the wood on the outside, protecting the inner core. Due to this reaction, wood beams have been proven to fail or deflect significantly less than a steel beam would when both are in the presence of fire. In one study, a steel beam failed completely after exposed to fire for 30 minutes, while a wooden beam still retained 75% of its original wood under the same test. (www.jlconline.com/how-to/roofing/q-a-performance-of-wood-vs-steel-beams-in-a-fire_o)
That being said, most structural elements will need to be replaced anyways if a fully involved house fire burns for 15+ minutes. And most occupants who have not been evacuated would probably be deceased. anyhow- so it really makes no difference. I'd go with steel beams if it were my dream house & I would just install an extensive and highly efficient sprinkler system lol.
Why is all your timber pink?
I have one question can somebody please tell me the name of those Jack's they are using it where can I buy them from I would think that would be called twist Jack's but when I look that up I don't get anything
In UK they're called Acrow props.
5:27 *Power of the Lord intensifies *