When grouting a tight gap like that you can put the grout into a gallon ziplock bag and cut the corner off. Use it like a pastry bag and it can help get into tight areas.
I love to watch your basement projects. We have two 100+ yr old old houses with creepy Michigan basements. We’ve had to add support to our sagging floors as well. It’s just nice to see that we’ve done it correctly. My husband and I really enjoy watching your videos for extra tips that we haven’t yet learned over the years of home ownership.
We have a 1945 house that is a fixer upper. Your videos help me understand when I can do things myself and when I need to hire a professional. Thanks so much for sharing 👍🏼
Omg, it's like u were workingin my basement. Im watching you video. It's like he's in our basement...like this video was meant for me. It was the first video I clicked on. I shared it with my sister for her husband to watch cus he may repair our beams.
Is your wife impressed with all you can do. If not she should be. I was married for 25 years and my husband was not handy around the house. He could work on cars though. I enjoy watching you work on your projects and you finish what you start😍
My wife is very thankful. 😁 I think when she was nervous buying a fixer upper in the very beginning and then after the first remodel she was like, ok I guess we can handle this. 😁😁 Thanks for watching, as always!
Nice work, and very good video. I have a few suggestions to improve the result for the longer term. I'm a retired carpenter, over 50 years experience, so far. Anyway, relying on the weight of the structure above to hold all the supports you added really isn't a good idea. I strongly recommend that you add structural fasteners at the top and bottom of the new steel column. What you have now, bent nails above and nothing into the concrete isn't remotely adequate, in my opinion. I'd be surprised if the maker of the pole didn't call for more/better fasteners, and every building code would absolutely require them. Drywall screws or deck screws are grossly inadequate. It would be a great idea to weld the bearing plates to the steel pole. I'd also add tie plates on both sides of the wood beam, like a Simpson PSQ 418, about $25 each, with the recommended structural screws, preventing any possibility of sideways slippage . My opinions, easily worth every penny you paid for them.
Thanks for this comment. I have a similar situation in my basement but the total span is about 50 feet with 5 support columns. The Beam is over 100 years old, cracked, and there's actually two beams which butt in the center with no tie plates. Question for you is whether it would be adequate to reinforce with heavy (12 guage?) tie plates across the butt joint, and then T plates connecting the wood columns to the beam? Alternately, I could build in a cripple wall under the butt joint to carry the load instead of just reinforcing the existing beam/column joints.
@@fredthe47thSuch a helpful person, you are! This is garbage but I'm not going to explain why...You sound like you are selling shamwow knock offs at 3am on local TV.
Nice job. But I did construction carpentry. When you walk into a basement and you see adjustable steal Support polls. You use the same thing that you used the 2x4’s for. I have seen 2x4 basically explode when you drop the weight on them or they’ll take the weight you’ll hear some funny noise and then they explode. You’re lucky. The only other thing that I’ve seen is where you put the permanent support pole at. That looks like two beams coming together. I was trying to see if it wasn’t but the one angle shows that it looks like two ends coming together. On top of the permanent pole you should add 2 plates you should have at least a 12 inch long plate however wide the beams are that should’ve went on first. Put some screws in it just to hold it in place then you sit your permanent pole underneath it with its plate on the 12 inch plate. I probably wouldn’t worry about it if your permanent pole had a endcap plate. And then it look like that permanent pole only had what a 5 inch wide plate you put it to a uneven beam. Let alone it was two beans one of them was on even coming together. Basically think of a teeter totter houses continuously settle. supports always move with the settling. With that little 5 inch plate that’s just sitting on top of concrete nothing else holding it but a nail and pressure. That’s why I was saying put a 12 inch long plate across the bottom of both of them making it a one solid suport point. For the permanent 5 inch plate to support it. You understand that those are support beans that’s why you’re using the concrete poles the adjustable support poles but do you know what happens when you apply pressure to things like I said 2x4 I’ve seen them explode. Now your support polls won’t explode because they’re made to handle the weight. But if they get kinked or forced to Suport at an angle those polls will come shooting out of they’re like a rocket. And remember your permanent pole is only connected to that 5 inch plate by sitting on top of each other. You should go to Home Depot or Lowe’s and ask them if they have the proper end caps for that support polls. If I remember right the proper end caps come in two different sizes 6 inch plate or a 12 inch plate and it’ll look like they’ll have a pipe welded to the bottom of them but that just slips over the end of the pole that’s going to be supporting it.
I live in an area where farmland is being taken over by suburbs. It's actually common for a lot of these old farm houses to be lifted and moved hundreds of feet to make efficient use of farmland for new builds. It's amazing to see these houses lifted lock, stock and barrel and placed on new foundations. It always surprises me when the house doesn't collapse on itself.
My wife and i are moving in 1 month and our new home in Pennsylvania needs some work i would love to hire u lol your work its truly perfection at its best
I literally applauded you when you added that second piece of 2x8. Many people would have left it with a single one. Given this is a carrying beam, I would even add a third piece to make it a triple block. You have plenty support on that concrete below. ... And of course replace those bended nails with proper screws. :-)
Aha, yes I agree they are very strong. I will keep the ones I took out around to use as jacks when doing this kind of work. Thanks for checking out the video!
Pretty old to reply to this comment and your reply but the column that you used to replace the jack with is so incredibly strong for a can with aerated concrete in them that all the comments saying that its weaker has no clue.. Infact I used to work south of Pittsburgh Pa. In a longwall deep mine doing recovery and support and would set those exact type of columns (we called them cans) mind you they were 18inches in diameter and set every 4ft apart, but the purpose of setting the cans was to support the roof and keep entries open and free from collaping after the longwall miner came threw and mined everything that would be holding it up and those cans can hold up the pressure of 1,400+ ft of earth above them and not give then i dont think anything could crush them..@@TheFixerHomeRepair
Great work dude! I need to take out some rotting beams in my old home I just bought. And replace them plus level since one side of the house is a little low, but I've only got 5 feet of clearance to work with since it's a half basement crawlspace with dirt floor and mounds of soil that are somewhat still supporting the house lol. Not very excited! Anyway that's why I'm here watching your video so thanks
Wow I thought jacking up cars can sometimes be nervewracking. Never thought how stressful jacking up a house can be lol Good job though, makes the area look a lot more open now! Keep up the amazing work!
Yeah man...honestly, this is nothing. Here is a story for ya... I was once under a crawl space of a triple decker, probably about 2 feet of height between the floor and the dirt ground. I was on my back, on the phone with someone on the 3rd floor as he was watching the door jamb move while I was raising it up. THAT was scary! So many cracks and pops and loud bangs of moving 100 years of settlement in minutes. I hope to not have to do anything like that again. One thing about cars though that houses don't do is roll haha so yeah that can be scary too. Thanks for watching, as always!!
FYI - a nice long piece of paper makes that line absolutely perfect around your column. It just has to be long enough to wrap around the pipe twice - make sure its straight (no bits of paper sticking out, and draw your line.
Excellent video. Id probably triple the 2x8 on the end adding support for the beam as its easy to do and just adds more support. I agree with the other comment saying to add screws to the lally to secure it. Honestly the ends ive seen people put five or six supporting 2x8s on beams, its ott but when its yours why not
Very well demonstrated with cautions and explanations step by step. It is performed easy way and making sure everything is according to safety and construction code compliance. Great Five Stars Job by "The Fixer"⭐⭐👍👍
13:50, pro tip. Put the concrete powder in a larger zip lock, add water, close the zip lock and knead it like dough until fully mixed. Cut the corner of the bag and squeeze it in the gap.
@@TheFixerHomeRepair it is, at least out here in the Pacific Northwest. Shingle is the most common I’ve seen/done. But I’ve also seen people use 6 mil plastic sheeting squares and pieces of the pink mud sill foam.
Nice how-to video. I would wear safety glasses throughout the video. You also could use silicone or WD40 to spray the metal screws on the screw jack columns to make life a bit easier when turning the adjustment screws.
Thanks for the video, definitely looks cleaner and is an improvement. Yet, the thick steel chunk would have been perfect for the first column. It gives a good bite on both joists ends because it would cover much surface and prevent the lally column to sink inside the soft ends of the joists. The plate it has is too small and only grabs the tips. Also, hydraulic cement is what is warranted for the space you filled up, it expands instead of shrinking like the one you used. It is also harder but you still should have used rebar or any metal shims and then fill it up with concrete. Treated wood is softer and it wicks the moisture so perhaps a thin material between it and the concrete would be ideal. I have a shop near my home and I ordered a 3/8 rectangular (18'' by 10' which is the height of my joist) steel bracket that they cut and pre drilled the holes for me. It was only $60 and it tied both ends very well in case there is some ground shaking in the future. You could also take the column and they can weld a bigger plate on top. Anyhow, it was a nice project and you did good, it is better now.
Exactly my suggestions as well. That flimsy metal plate is not going to cut it, IMHO an upgrade to a thicker plate is worth the effort. It's not possible to do a DIY video without exposing yourself to the feedback of others who have already made similar mistakes! Kudos for sharing (Fixer) and being open to the constructive feedback of others.
Good suggestions. I also would have used construction adhesive with clamps on the 2x4s for added strength. What he did should hold. But I'm like you I would be more comfortable using a much longer plate above the pipe for more surface area contact
Hey, Graham. I am planning on doing some kind of remodel for the workshop. Not sure if I will do a series but am planning on doing some one off videos along the way. Stay tuned! Thanks for being an awesome and loyal subscriber!
@@TheFixerHomeRepair I just bought a home, thoroughly inspected, supposedly. We see that to make room for stairs they cut the carry beam in the basement. 8 feet removed at the end of where it sits in the foundation walls. So the beam stops at the stairs and does not continue. AFAIK you cannot cut this beam. How did it pass inspection? Now the weight on the wall that no longer has the beam is showing obvious stress cracks in the cemented wall. The beam has twisted some at the end of the cut end. How dangerous is this? The floor above the cut is not settling flat anymore. Ty..
It looks like great work you did. Just a note though, I must have been in 1000 basements in my life that have teleposts. Not once have I ever heard them referred to as 'temporary columns' . I have no clue why that tube steel thing you instal is better in any way. Thanks for the video.
Hi, do people ever replace the support beam or do they just add additional supports to it. I have this same issue. The lumber is old and bent causing the floors to sag. I want to know if we should replace it
I had to do the same thing in the basement of my old house. The support beam was huge, about 6x11 douglas fir and spanned the whole length if the house. There was 1 piece of 4x4 cedar post right at mid span and it was warping under the pressure. No matter how many precautions you take, it is really nerve wracking doing this kind of work.
one thing I don't know if it is mentioned, is you can't just throw a few columns under your main beam and call it fixed. You have to demo the concrete where you plan to place your columns, and pour a much deeper footer about 2x2x2 feet(local codes vary) for the column to sit on, or your 3" thick floor will crack and your pole will sink.
I'm getting worried...you haven't used your oscillating tool for some time now. You're probably going through some kind of withdrawal. Another great and informative video. Good information.
WOW AWESOME JOB! That was exciting to watch! In the video at 4:08 where you mentioned you "didn't know what happened" the beam had been cut, if the beam had been cut at the top in that same position, would you replace the entire beam or continue repairing as you have here in the video?
you want to make sure that the pocket where the main beam sits that there is a minimal of a 1/2" on the bottom and sides for air movement. Just a FYI thanks for the vid.
That will do the trick. What I usually do is cut two sets of sistered 2 x 4s an inch too long, hammer them into place, hammer them a bit more until the desired height. Multiple ways to accomplish the same feat.
Pressure treated lumber will rot. Especially the new formula stuff, unless it rated for ground contact, I've used the new stuff and had it rot in less than 2 years. Most of the 4 X 4 and larger stock is rated for ground contact.
So I'm buying a house and it needs some floor lifting and support. I love how helpful this video is but I can't find where to buy a lally column with cement already in it. Am I supposed to do the cement part myself? Any help?
1 where to get the basement jack ? 2 if you hack up the basement one time to lavel the floor would it would do any demage to the house can you provide more detail about that ?
I think 3 2x8” boards would have been better.. but if you think those thin boards will hold up then you’ll be good. Awesome project, you’ll gain more space by taking out that border, and expand the work space
Was anyone else worried when he finally pulled that main support out? 😬 I'd love to see more as you work your way through, what looks like the beginning of, a basement reno? 👊 Thanks for sharing and Great work!
How many of those should an 800 sf house have? My home has only one and it's not in the middle. Good guess as to why the floors are slanted to the middle? 😟
Hard to say, that is for the builder or an engineer to tell you for sure depending on the size of the beam and length but if your house is sagging it could probably use another. On the other hand if your house is really old it will likely sag anyway.
I have a sagging floor and need to support the 21' carrying beam in the basement. I bought 3 Tiger Brand JS100 adjustable jack posts and started raising the beam. The center post is starting to buckle since it's a 2 piece post. I want to replace with the lally beams you are using but can't find them. Your link for them goes to Home Depot but they aren't coming up. Do you have any more info on these?
a question , why is the central beam splitted ? where you put the metal post , is it not necesarry to close the gap between both beams and to make a improvement to make the beam more powerfull , greetings from mexico
Hi guys- do people usually leave the supporting column in and just support it or do they replace the column at some point?? By the column i mean that horizontal board that he just supported
I'm doing a new i beam in a older home that had brick wall holding up the first floor, the structural engineer required new footing and cement pads, are you concerned about the footing not being under the new post?
Would 6 large beams be supported by 1 samillare beam. Coz that what i have in my loft out here in oran algeria. Or would i give it an extrat metal support. Imean what is the maximum weight could a single beam support ?
How bad does that main support need to be before it’s structural integrity is compromised? I have a house from the 30s and it’s main support has gotten many chunks removed over the years and it looks horrible. Previous owner even hid most the structural damage under paint…
FYI: Lally column. Not lolly column. The Lally column is named after a U.S. inventor, John Lally, who owned a construction company that started production of these columns in the late 19th century
😁 It can be... after some of the stuff I have done though, this is nothing. I was once under a crawl space of a triple decker, probably about 2 feet of height between the floor and the dirt ground. I was on my back, on the phone with someone on the 3rd floor as he was watching the door jamb move while I was raising it up. THAT was scary! So many cracks and pops and loud bangs of moving 100 years of settlement in minutes. I hope to not have to do anything like that again. Anyway, thanks for stopping by and checking out the video!
He missed an important step!!! The top and bottom plates of the main column should be welded to the column. If something heavy falls against the column or something like that, the column could pop out and crash comes the house. Top plate should be lagged, not just a couple of nails bent over - very hackish. Personally I would have kept the steel column at the knee wall. The structural value of the beam and mainly top 2x is compromised by holes drilled through for wiring. Why? Go over the beam instead. For that matter the NM cable stapled to the beam and sill plates does not meet NEC, CSA, IEC because it's not protected from damage. This basement requires a complete rewire job ... scary!
They didn't go into the wall. They either went in to the block that is below the beam or were short enough that they didn't hit the wall. Thanks for checking out the video!
Hey Mr Fixer love your videos but my OCD is saying where are your gloves and eye protection 😂 those electrical wires were causing me anxiety but otherwise from that great job👍💙
When grouting a tight gap like that you can put the grout into a gallon ziplock bag and cut the corner off. Use it like a pastry bag and it can help get into tight areas.
I love to watch your basement projects. We have two 100+ yr old old houses with creepy Michigan basements. We’ve had to add support to our sagging floors as well. It’s just nice to see that we’ve done it correctly. My husband and I really enjoy watching your videos for extra tips that we haven’t yet learned over the years of home ownership.
We have a 1945 house that is a fixer upper. Your videos help me understand when I can do things myself and when I need to hire a professional. Thanks so much for sharing 👍🏼
Hey, Willa! That is great to hear. So happy I can help out!
Oh boy, the 1855 house we just bought has lots of those *temporary* things down in basement 😂 Thank you, this is teaching me a lot!
Omg, it's like u were workingin my basement. Im watching you video. It's like he's in our basement...like this video was meant for me. It was the first video I clicked on. I shared it with my sister for her husband to watch cus he may repair our beams.
I admire this Man’s resourcefulness and his ‘get it done’ attitude! Common sense approach to things helps as well. Very good Sir! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👍👍👍😁✌🏻🇺🇸
My husband is for sure a MacGyver. He blows my mind with his knowledge of everything🤷🏽♀️I’m very grateful for him🙏🏽.
Is your wife impressed with all you can do. If not she should be. I was married for 25 years and my husband was not handy around the house. He could work on cars though. I enjoy watching you work on your projects and you finish what you start😍
Agree 100%.
My wife is very thankful. 😁 I think when she was nervous buying a fixer upper in the very beginning and then after the first remodel she was like, ok I guess we can handle this. 😁😁 Thanks for watching, as always!
@@TheFixerHomeRepair she is blessed having you. When my husband tried to fix something never accomplished the thing.
Shoot your shot 😂
You could help out too and tackle projects!
Nice work, and very good video. I have a few suggestions to improve the result for the longer term. I'm a retired carpenter, over 50 years experience, so far. Anyway, relying on the weight of the structure above to hold all the supports you added really isn't a good idea. I strongly recommend that you add structural fasteners at the top and bottom of the new steel column. What you have now, bent nails above and nothing into the concrete isn't remotely adequate, in my opinion. I'd be surprised if the maker of the pole didn't call for more/better fasteners, and every building code would absolutely require them. Drywall screws or deck screws are grossly inadequate. It would be a great idea to weld the bearing plates to the steel pole. I'd also add tie plates on both sides of the wood beam, like a Simpson PSQ 418, about $25 each, with the recommended structural screws, preventing any possibility of sideways slippage . My opinions, easily worth every penny you paid for them.
Thanks for this comment. I have a similar situation in my basement but the total span is about 50 feet with 5 support columns. The Beam is over 100 years old, cracked, and there's actually two beams which butt in the center with no tie plates.
Question for you is whether it would be adequate to reinforce with heavy (12 guage?) tie plates across the butt joint, and then T plates connecting the wood columns to the beam? Alternately, I could build in a cripple wall under the butt joint to carry the load instead of just reinforcing the existing beam/column joints.
I have the same situation, both beams are cracked and sagging on either side of the support column.
@@nickreiter6221 Got a pic or three? Sounds pretty bad!
@@fredthe47thSuch a helpful person, you are! This is garbage but I'm not going to explain why...You sound like you are selling shamwow knock offs at 3am on local TV.
@@fredthe47th if you don't explain how, and others are unable to verify your credibility and expertise, you just sound like a troll.
I have a lally pole that is leaning, which needs attention. Thanks for the video sir!
Nice job. But I did construction carpentry. When you walk into a basement and you see adjustable steal Support polls. You use the same thing that you used the 2x4’s for. I have seen 2x4 basically explode when you drop the weight on them or they’ll take the weight you’ll hear some funny noise and then they explode. You’re lucky. The only other thing that I’ve seen is where you put the permanent support pole at. That looks like two beams coming together. I was trying to see if it wasn’t but the one angle shows that it looks like two ends coming together. On top of the permanent pole you should add 2 plates you should have at least a 12 inch long plate however wide the beams are that should’ve went on first. Put some screws in it just to hold it in place then you sit your permanent pole underneath it with its plate on the 12 inch plate. I probably wouldn’t worry about it if your permanent pole had a endcap plate. And then it look like that permanent pole only had what a 5 inch wide plate you put it to a uneven beam. Let alone it was two beans one of them was on even coming together. Basically think of a teeter totter houses continuously settle. supports always move with the settling. With that little 5 inch plate that’s just sitting on top of concrete nothing else holding it but a nail and pressure. That’s why I was saying put a 12 inch long plate across the bottom of both of them making it a one solid suport point. For the permanent 5 inch plate to support it. You understand that those are support beans that’s why you’re using the concrete poles the adjustable support poles but do you know what happens when you apply pressure to things like I said 2x4 I’ve seen them explode. Now your support polls won’t explode because they’re made to handle the weight. But if they get kinked or forced to Suport at an angle those polls will come shooting out of they’re like a rocket. And remember your permanent pole is only connected to that 5 inch plate by sitting on top of each other. You should go to Home Depot or Lowe’s and ask them if they have the proper end caps for that support polls. If I remember right the proper end caps come in two different sizes 6 inch plate or a 12 inch plate and it’ll look like they’ll have a pipe welded to the bottom of them but that just slips over the end of the pole that’s going to be supporting it.
I live in an area where farmland is being taken over by suburbs. It's actually common for a lot of these old farm houses to be lifted and moved hundreds of feet to make efficient use of farmland for new builds. It's amazing to see these houses lifted lock, stock and barrel and placed on new foundations. It always surprises me when the house doesn't collapse on itself.
Yeah that is impressive!
Glad they are saving the old houses instead of tearing them down.
My wife and i are moving in 1 month and our new home in Pennsylvania needs some work i would love to hire u lol your work its truly perfection at its best
nice to have an husband who is a handyman also with such a great workshop
I literally applauded you when you added that second piece of 2x8. Many people would have left it with a single one. Given this is a carrying beam, I would even add a third piece to make it a triple block. You have plenty support on that concrete below. ... And of course replace those bended nails with proper screws. :-)
Your the real deal my friend!!!!
Jack of all trades🤙🏼💪🏼
I love to watch all your basement job
Good luck
Nice to finish all works you start
🇦🇪 Emirati ENG. watching your videos
A telapost is what we call them here in Canada and they are good for around 9000ibs, perfectly capable of holding that load. Love the vids.
Aha, yes I agree they are very strong. I will keep the ones I took out around to use as jacks when doing this kind of work. Thanks for checking out the video!
Pretty old to reply to this comment and your reply but the column that you used to replace the jack with is so incredibly strong for a can with aerated concrete in them that all the comments saying that its weaker has no clue.. Infact I used to work south of Pittsburgh Pa. In a longwall deep mine doing recovery and support and would set those exact type of columns (we called them cans) mind you they were 18inches in diameter and set every 4ft apart, but the purpose of setting the cans was to support the roof and keep entries open and free from collaping after the longwall miner came threw and mined everything that would be holding it up and those cans can hold up the pressure of 1,400+ ft of earth above them and not give then i dont think anything could crush them..@@TheFixerHomeRepair
Really like the way you roll, Fixer! Always learn something interesting on your channel....thanks?
Awesome to hear! Thanks, Jim!
Really good, I learned a lot but would be super nervous doing this myself. I was nervous for you and I totally know you are an expert.
Whew! This one was a nail biter!!
Great job! I'm always amazed at how much you know about so many things!!
😁 Thanks for watching, Jodi! 😁👍
Great work dude! I need to take out some rotting beams in my old home I just bought. And replace them plus level since one side of the house is a little low, but I've only got 5 feet of clearance to work with since it's a half basement crawlspace with dirt floor and mounds of soil that are somewhat still supporting the house lol. Not very excited! Anyway that's why I'm here watching your video so thanks
Sounds like a fun job haha. I wish you the best of luck and I hope my videos can help you in some way. Thanks for watching!
Future reference, when putting a board next or on a concrete, use a rubber membrane to keep it from moisture and to keep the wood in perfect order.
Wow I thought jacking up cars can sometimes be nervewracking. Never thought how stressful jacking up a house can be lol
Good job though, makes the area look a lot more open now!
Keep up the amazing work!
Yeah man...honestly, this is nothing. Here is a story for ya... I was once under a crawl space of a triple decker, probably about 2 feet of height between the floor and the dirt ground. I was on my back, on the phone with someone on the 3rd floor as he was watching the door jamb move while I was raising it up. THAT was scary! So many cracks and pops and loud bangs of moving 100 years of settlement in minutes. I hope to not have to do anything like that again. One thing about cars though that houses don't do is roll haha so yeah that can be scary too. Thanks for watching, as always!!
@@TheFixerHomeRepair hahaha yeah that's crazy... definitely not something I'd ever wanna do unless I had no other choice lol
FYI - a nice long piece of paper makes that line absolutely perfect around your column. It just has to be long enough to wrap around the pipe twice - make sure its straight (no bits of paper sticking out, and draw your line.
Excellent video. Id probably triple the 2x8 on the end adding support for the beam as its easy to do and just adds more support. I agree with the other comment saying to add screws to the lally to secure it. Honestly the ends ive seen people put five or six supporting 2x8s on beams, its ott but when its yours why not
Very well demonstrated with cautions and explanations step by step. It is performed easy way and making sure everything is according to safety and construction code compliance. Great Five Stars Job by "The Fixer"⭐⭐👍👍
You snapped that column like a boss.
😂👍
13:50, pro tip. Put the concrete powder in a larger zip lock, add water, close the zip lock and knead it like dough until fully mixed. Cut the corner of the bag and squeeze it in the gap.
Great job, that was pretty exiting. Watched with a lot of pleasure and learned from you, again. Thnx from a Dutchman with a fixer upper.
Great video absolutely worth 👌 👍 👏
Great video. I might have thrown an asphalt shingle under those 2x8s to prevent wicking. Otherwise, perfect repair!
Hey Mike! That is interesting, I have never heard of that actually. Is that common?
@@TheFixerHomeRepair it is, at least out here in the Pacific Northwest. Shingle is the most common I’ve seen/done. But I’ve also seen people use 6 mil plastic sheeting squares and pieces of the pink mud sill foam.
@@TheFixerHomeRepair super common and definitely recommended for wicking as the other commenter said.
My house needs that. My house needs everything.😂
Hey I here ya! Guess that is what comes with a fixer upper. Thanks for watching!
Good work there Mister !!!
Very useful info. I’ve got a couple joists under my living room that are sagging a bit.
Nice how-to video. I would wear safety glasses throughout the video. You also could use silicone or WD40 to spray the metal screws on the screw jack columns to make life a bit easier when turning the adjustment screws.
Safety 3rd
Thanks for the video, definitely looks cleaner and is an improvement. Yet, the thick steel chunk would have been perfect for the first column. It gives a good bite on both joists ends because it would cover much surface and prevent the lally column to sink inside the soft ends of the joists. The plate it has is too small and only grabs the tips. Also, hydraulic cement is what is warranted for the space you filled up, it expands instead of shrinking like the one you used. It is also harder but you still should have used rebar or any metal shims and then fill it up with concrete. Treated wood is softer and it wicks the moisture so perhaps a thin material between it and the concrete would be ideal.
I have a shop near my home and I ordered a 3/8 rectangular (18'' by 10' which is the height of my joist) steel bracket that they cut and pre drilled the holes for me. It was only $60 and it tied both ends very well in case there is some ground shaking in the future. You could also take the column and they can weld a bigger plate on top. Anyhow, it was a nice project and you did good, it is better now.
Exactly my suggestions as well. That flimsy metal plate is not going to cut it, IMHO an upgrade to a thicker plate is worth the effort. It's not possible to do a DIY video without exposing yourself to the feedback of others who have already made similar mistakes! Kudos for sharing (Fixer) and being open to the constructive feedback of others.
Good suggestions. I also would have used construction adhesive with clamps on the 2x4s for added strength. What he did should hold. But I'm like you I would be more comfortable using a much longer plate above the pipe for more surface area contact
I did learn something, I didn't know that was called a lollie column and it has plates that are used with it. Thanks!
Dude! 226K subscribers?? That is awesome! Couldn't have happened to a nicer guy. :)
😁 Thanks so much, Becki! I feel very lucky to have such an amazing group of subscribers, like yourself! So thank you for that!
This was very useful. I lived in a home that had a slope in the kitchen and you can literally roll in an office chair lol 😂
Mr Fixer has done this before. 👍👍👍
That large post would make a nice fireplace mantle
Yes it would! I bet it will clean up nice. I will use it for something! Thanks for checking out the video!
Great job Matt! Will you remodel your workshop and if so, could you do a series as well as a time lapse? That would be awesome 🙂🛠
Hey, Graham. I am planning on doing some kind of remodel for the workshop. Not sure if I will do a series but am planning on doing some one off videos along the way. Stay tuned! Thanks for being an awesome and loyal subscriber!
@@TheFixerHomeRepair you're very welcome buddy 🙂🛠
@@TheFixerHomeRepair I just bought a home, thoroughly inspected, supposedly. We see that to make room for stairs they cut the carry beam in the basement. 8 feet removed at the end of where it sits in the foundation walls. So the beam stops at the stairs and does not continue. AFAIK you cannot cut this beam. How did it pass inspection? Now the weight on the wall that no longer has the beam is showing obvious stress cracks in the cemented wall. The beam has twisted some at the end of the cut end. How dangerous is this? The floor above the cut is not settling flat anymore. Ty..
Wow man, nice work! You should make an basement remodel as well, and make a huge workshop in it! Keep up the good works!
Thank you! Stay tuned! Something is brewing!
nice job on the column, should never have to worry about that beam now
Thanks, Wiley! I sure hope I don't! 👍👍 Thanks for stopping by!
Great job as always 👏👍❤❤
Thank you! 😁😁👍
It looks like great work you did. Just a note though, I must have been in 1000 basements in my life that have teleposts. Not once have I ever heard them referred to as 'temporary columns' . I have no clue why that tube steel thing you instal is better in any way. Thanks for the video.
"Teleposts" by most building code can't stay in place more then 30 days.
Hi, do people ever replace the support beam or do they just add additional supports to it. I have this same issue. The lumber is old and bent causing the floors to sag. I want to know if we should replace it
great video man!! keep up the videos!
I had to do the same thing in the basement of my old house. The support beam was huge, about 6x11 douglas fir and spanned the whole length if the house. There was 1 piece of 4x4 cedar post right at mid span and it was warping under the pressure.
No matter how many precautions you take, it is really nerve wracking doing this kind of work.
Hi did u remove the beam or just support it?
Great job. I learned a lot
Awesome to hear! Hope the video helps if you ever need to do something like this! Thanks for watching!
LIKE A BOSS!
😁 I try! Thanks for checking it out, Gregory!
one thing I don't know if it is mentioned, is you can't just throw a few columns under your main beam and call it fixed. You have to demo the concrete where you plan to place your columns, and pour a much deeper footer about 2x2x2 feet(local codes vary) for the column to sit on, or your 3" thick floor will crack and your pole will sink.
Way to go! You are progressing so well. You should be proud of yourself. (Hopefully, I will too.)
Thanks, Paige! I hope so too! Just keep on posting!
I'm getting worried...you haven't used your oscillating tool for some time now. You're probably going through some kind of withdrawal. Another great and informative video. Good information.
😂 Haha! Ok, maybe the next video! Thanks for stopping by as always!
Thanks 👍 great video
In NC you can use screw Jack's but both the top and bottom plate have to be welded to post
It should be better ways of building houses in the future. Good job anyhway
For long spans a steel beam(RSJ) would typically be used in houses nowadays.
Yes, building practices have improved significantly. A lot of houses don't even need columns anymore thanks to steel beams. Thanks for watching!
Next time you have to fill in a small gap with cement, try using the pastry bag method.
Luv ur videos. Safety glasses please.
I need to do this exact same thing !
Thanks.
Hey, Zac! Hope the video helps! Good luck!
Good job
Thank you.
Thank you for watching, Tommy!! 😁😁👍
WOW AWESOME JOB! That was exciting to watch! In the video at 4:08 where you mentioned you "didn't know what happened" the beam had been cut, if the beam had been cut at the top in that same position, would you replace the entire beam or continue repairing as you have here in the video?
you want to make sure that the pocket where the main beam sits that there is a minimal of a 1/2" on the bottom and sides for air movement. Just a FYI thanks for the vid.
That will do the trick. What I usually do is cut two sets of sistered 2 x 4s an inch too long, hammer them into place, hammer them a bit more until the desired height. Multiple ways to accomplish the same feat.
Pressure treated lumber will rot. Especially the new formula stuff, unless it rated for ground contact, I've used the new stuff and had it rot in less than 2 years. Most of the 4 X 4 and larger stock is rated for ground contact.
Even ground contact lumber will rot, unfortunately.
I have pressure treated from 1980 still good repurposed on same deck and Shit from 2010 all rotted from inside out sad.
So I'm buying a house and it needs some floor lifting and support. I love how helpful this video is but I can't find where to buy a lally column with cement already in it. Am I supposed to do the cement part myself? Any help?
1 where to get the basement jack ?
2 if you hack up the basement one time to lavel the floor would it would do any demage to the house can you provide more detail about that ?
I think 3 2x8” boards would have been better.. but if you think those thin boards will hold up then you’ll be good. Awesome project, you’ll gain more space by taking out that border, and expand the work space
Thanks for the comment and for checking out the video!
Was anyone else worried when he finally pulled that main support out? 😬 I'd love to see more as you work your way through, what looks like the beginning of, a basement reno? 👊 Thanks for sharing and Great work!
😁 Stay tuned!
How many of those should an 800 sf house have? My home has only one and it's not in the middle. Good guess as to why the floors are slanted to the middle? 😟
As little as possible but not too many
@@gregmize01 Thanks!
Hard to say, that is for the builder or an engineer to tell you for sure depending on the size of the beam and length but if your house is sagging it could probably use another. On the other hand if your house is really old it will likely sag anyway.
@@TheFixerHomeRepair Yeah, built 1939. Thank you for your reply. Great video, I learned a lot.
I have a sagging floor and need to support the 21' carrying beam in the basement. I bought 3 Tiger Brand JS100 adjustable jack posts and started raising the beam. The center post is starting to buckle since it's a 2 piece post. I want to replace with the lally beams you are using but can't find them. Your link for them goes to Home Depot but they aren't coming up. Do you have any more info on these?
did you use galvanized screws for that pressure treated wood against the exterior wall?
I’m using a steel plate with four lag bolts.
My butt was puckered the whole time!!
haha it can be nerve racking but honestly this is nothing compared to some stuff I have done under houses. Thanks for checking out the video!
Curious if that piece of pipe would work in the small section instead of the 2x8.
the part he cut off? Yeah, that's a good idea.
Akways wear PPE/a respirator and have proper ventilation/dust control when cutting into concrete, that dust is no joke.
a question , why is the central beam splitted ? where you put the metal post , is it not necesarry to close the gap between both beams and to make a improvement to make the beam more powerfull , greetings from mexico
Hi guys- do people usually leave the supporting column in and just support it or do they replace the column at some point?? By the column i mean that horizontal board that he just supported
What are the metal supports called the ones that look like jacks
I can't find those lally columns on home depot. Do you suggest a different source? I enjoyed your video. It is close to my scenario. Good to see.
I'm doing a new i beam in a older home that had brick wall holding up the first floor, the structural engineer required new footing and cement pads, are you concerned about the footing not being under the new post?
Pray you never have an earthquake.
Can you tell where you purchased the concert column?
Would 6 large beams be supported by 1 samillare beam.
Coz that what i have in my loft out here in oran algeria.
Or would i give it an extrat metal support.
Imean what is the maximum weight could a single beam support ?
Great video. I have never seen this before. Do people normally weld those columns in place?
By code they do need to be fixed. Also wouldn't hurt to weld the column to the plates as well as bolting to the beam and floor.
Really good job. Did you think about sistering the two beams in the Middle?
No need to. Sister int is mostly needed where it spans not where it’s supported underneath
How bad does that main support need to be before it’s structural integrity is compromised? I have a house from the 30s and it’s main support has gotten many chunks removed over the years and it looks horrible. Previous owner even hid most the structural damage under paint…
FYI: Lally column. Not lolly column.
The Lally column is named after a U.S. inventor, John Lally, who owned a construction company that started production of these columns in the late 19th century
O my. This is scary 😳 wow!
😁 It can be... after some of the stuff I have done though, this is nothing. I was once under a crawl space of a triple decker, probably about 2 feet of height between the floor and the dirt ground. I was on my back, on the phone with someone on the 3rd floor as he was watching the door jamb move while I was raising it up. THAT was scary! So many cracks and pops and loud bangs of moving 100 years of settlement in minutes. I hope to not have to do anything like that again. Anyway, thanks for stopping by and checking out the video!
He missed an important step!!! The top and bottom plates of the main column should be welded to the column. If something heavy falls against the column or something like that, the column could pop out and crash comes the house. Top plate should be lagged, not just a couple of nails bent over - very hackish. Personally I would have kept the steel column at the knee wall. The structural value of the beam and mainly top 2x is compromised by holes drilled through for wiring. Why? Go over the beam instead. For that matter the NM cable stapled to the beam and sill plates does not meet NEC, CSA, IEC because it's not protected from damage. This basement requires a complete rewire job ... scary!
Could you use a 6 by 6 square tubing ? With thicker shin plates? Just curious
Fiber compression resistance is enough for those beam heads on top of that column?
Where do you get those concrete columns? All the ones I can find are adjustable.
I found these at Home Depot. I have heard some people have a hard time finding them. Maybe call a local lumber yard and ask?
How the screws drove into the wall without predrilling?
They didn't go into the wall. They either went in to the block that is below the beam or were short enough that they didn't hit the wall. Thanks for checking out the video!
Wish my ceiling was that high in my basement
Are u worried about the pressure treated shrinking?
First, I'd join those gacked beams at the middle with a custom, 1/2" steel plate. Earthquakes, yo. Also, wear a mask if grinding concrete.
Hey Mr Fixer love your videos but my OCD is saying where are your gloves and eye protection 😂 those electrical wires were causing me anxiety but otherwise from that great job👍💙
You are right, Geanett. Probably should have been wearing those. Thanks for watching!
@@TheFixerHomeRepair And a respirator when cutting concrete. Silica kills. You want to be able to attend your son's wedding in good health.
Balls on fire 🔥 😂