Great vid lads👍🏾 Only thing I would add for the beginner is to make sure you have a sound foundation underneath each prop before transmitting any load to them. If the floor is made of concrete then no probs. However, If it's a suspended wooden floor, you should: make sure you spread the load across the floor joists using a couple of scaffold boards or remove some floor boards and place the jacks directly onto solid ground beneath the house.
+gerty wilmot Thanks! Unfortunately the old bricks had a strong cement render on the face of them that was to hard to remove, otherwise I would have re used them.
I've been a builder for many years and have seen quite a fair bit of sheds. The plans in ryan's package th-cam.com/users/postUgkxB7IXYxLzb_Ichhe45zM3Im5xfEiSp9vB have some of the nicest looking sheds i've seen in a while.
only if the masonry requires a padstone. a pad just distributes the loads if the original point of contact cannot support the weight. The compressive strength of bricks is high, which can generally support small point loads.
Als je behang problemen wilt vermijden en snel één proffesionele behanger wilt zou ik via www.offertesbrabant.nl/behangers een aanvraag doen. Krijg je snel vele prijsopgaves van verschillende behangers toegestuurd en kan je ze vergelijken met elkaar
Nice video! A quick tip with spray glueing plastic angles on, spray both the back of your angle and the surface you’re sticking it to, let them sit for a minute or two to become tacky and slap the angle on. It’ll stick much better than with spray glue just on the back of the angle.
Hi there, thank you for sharing the video. How much does this type of job cost? I just want to get an idea on cost, because I'm looking to buy a house where we will require to knock down two walls. I'm trying to determine if the extra cost will be worth it. Your feedback would be much appreciated. Thank you.
What's the rule for the needles? How thick, how many/ distance between eachother etc. I need to make a 4m opening in a load bearing wall and I don't really know how many needles I should put in as support...Thanks to anyone who will reply!
Whats the load on the load bearing brick wall. Also do mention the dimensions of the brick wall.... Nice n' clean project execution....👍👍 Regards, Sushil Madhukar Adhikari
Our Build hi guys. Awesome video. Can you provide a rough cost for a similar job? I’m Australian based (Sydney) so any quote range would be appreciated. Chris
Most certainly better with a bed of mortar on top of the Lintol then Acrow it up so there is full contact and no point loading [ which you will get with wedges ] nice job though.
Hahahaha thats what i was thinking. Would have definately added some steel packers between the brick and concrete lintel. Make them about 7mm by 20mm by 30mm and stack em up. Still will be able to render them and the support will be much more reliable than the mortar. Everything else though was perfect
Hi how do you ensure that the last brick at the top makes good contact with the concrete lintel for load transfer? Because the mortar in between is initially soft right? Do you just wait until the mortar dries up before removing the props? How do you ensure compactness of the mortar at this location to make it load bearing? thanks
Having our wall taken out between the kitchen and dining room so interesting to see what goes on when I am at work :) I love watching these projects take shape but always out the house when it happens. Thanks for the video!
Great video. Helped me talk knowledgeably to the builders who did this for me. How do you then deal with the floor gap after the wall is removed? I have tiles and the builders were able to not crack any of the existing ones. How do I fill in the gap? (It will eventually have kitchen units covering it, so no need to level or re-tile luckily). Thanks in advance :-)
. Most important- No 1 - I didn't hear anything about 'load bearing" or "not", until the very end. As the wall is 4" it is not likely to be seriously load bearing. The selection of the modest steel lintel is confirmation of that. So proceed with minimal Acrow props. .
At 3minutes 46 seconds you have the needles out loading the lintel and leaving the pc lintel to hog over the single acro prop! Single strand PC lintels are not meant to be loaded that way, It is likely the manufacturer would consider this inappropriate handling!
Perhaps adding a layer of loose wet mortal on top of the length of lintel before place it in its place would have distributed the downward load better and avoided the localised outer pressure points caused by those tapered wedges to preload the bricks on the lintel. The wedges only acted on the outer edges of the bricks and the lintel and not along its centre line , which was left void. Seeing that there was a good gap, the bricks at floating end of the lintel on the new wall should have been drilled vertically and a tie rod inserted and grouted to tie the new wall to the old wall in a vertical manner and not only on its side with those galvanised steel ties.This would ensure a better structure and anything hitting the new wall will not cause it to sway sideways. At 4:12 It was wrong to insert those final pressure wedges before the lintel was supported on the new wall as the lintel pre-stressing was not effective considering that the temporary vertical steel support was far away from the wall and when it was removed the lintel had to settled a little. In my country we would have been less comfortable but more pompous and ornate to show off to the neighbours and made an arch with thicker than wall abutments, with decorated imposts and interlocked voissoirs and a projected crown to make us feel that we are at St Paul's Cathedral or Westminister Cathedral in London or Santa Maria del fuore cathedral in Florence. British homes are modest and humble and more comfortable than ours!
Thanks for the detailed review of the installation, i would love to see one of your pompous St Pauls attempts at the same style of construction LOL :) Cheers mate, take care.
Hey James, Great video. Are the needles you refer to separate to the acroprops? Also when fitting in a heavy (370kg) 4000mm wide beam, we'll be using lifters, but would you recommend sliding it into position at first? Cheers for such a great video
Hi Dan, yes the needles are the support timbers or steel that is inserted under the brickwork and then the acrow props go up to the needles. Hard to say about the position of the beam, generally if its something large and heavy i would get it in close to the opening and then use a genie lift to wind it up unto position.
i want to create a doorway entrance from my house to the garage but theres a load-bearing block wall in the way. I was wondering what kind of stone you put as a beam? I was thinking using steel beams but you but a stone beam instead?
main thing you missing is how did you put support beam in place, when you have jack post on the way. In your case there's planty of space, but usualy we need to put the support beam fist, then jack post on the other side of the wall, then we demolish old wall, lift the support beam, put it into place.
How you know the floor can support the weight? Better make a totally independent balance construction. So many times I have seen this go wrong. Also if it's a big opening, put the iron beams (if making a portal) first between the supporters. Also use shrink free mortal !
well, you have to be care full you are transferring distributed loads to concentrated point loads. You can get settlements due to re-distribution of loads. Always consult an engineer for this type of work.
Hi I will be building an addition interior brick wall and joining it to an old existing brick wall. Could you show me how to join the walls old and new walls please... I can give you more info on the project if you like.
Do you really believe the load of the wall above is on the iron bar? I dont think so. Since u can remove the bar and wall above still remained intact i guess it is just a psychological bar placement. Actually the cement is holding the bricks of the wall above... U like it or not.
Great video, James! Just wondering why a concrete lintel rather than a steel one? And is this enough support if there’s a whole other floor above this one? Or was this done in a bungalow? Thanks!
Hello James! Greetings from Blighty! Really enjoyed watching your Vid, so I liked & Subscribed to your site, look forward to watching all your work, build Well, Work Safe Mate! See You Later Mate
Amazing work 👌👌👌 I want to convert my sitting room into a bed room, and build a closet. But my sitting room is small, so l'm thinking of breaking down the wall separating the sitting room and the garage, and build a closet that will take some space in the garage rather, and have a sliding door in the bed room. What advice can you give me before l do this project?. #PleaseHelp
Why didn't he use a longer concrete support/lentil to go into the original wall to make the opening wider instead of having build up the blocks and make the opening smaller?
Great job! We have builders in to widen an existing doorway to and extention into a kitchen, how long should it take to knock out the wall. My builder took a whole day to take out 2 rows of bricks as you have done and marked out the opening with an angle grinder saying the wall is external and its very hard! Is this normal or are they taking too long as we are paying a daily rate! Any help would be great. Many thanks
1:25 if you try to cut down a masonry wall with an angle grinder you'd not be able to breathe because of the dust! There should be clouds of dust where are they?
I dont deal often with brick - well done! Thanks for the info brother
+A Concord Carpenter , Cheers Rob!
Instablaster...
Great vid lads👍🏾
Only thing I would add for the beginner is to make sure you have a sound foundation underneath each prop before transmitting any load to them. If the floor is made of concrete then no probs. However, If it's a suspended wooden floor, you should: make sure you spread the load across the floor joists using a couple of scaffold boards or remove some floor boards and place the jacks directly onto solid ground beneath the house.
This may be a stupid question but would this exact same process apply to removing the rear brick wall of a garage to make way for a roller door?
The brick pier you built up . The top brick doesn’t quite reach the underside of the lintel. You should of gone for a padstone
Nice job! But strange that they didn't reuse the bricks they removed - that would have reduced costs and waste.
+gerty wilmot Thanks! Unfortunately the old bricks had a strong cement render on the face of them that was to hard to remove, otherwise I would have re used them.
I've been a builder for many years and have seen quite a fair bit of sheds. The plans in ryan's package th-cam.com/users/postUgkxB7IXYxLzb_Ichhe45zM3Im5xfEiSp9vB have some of the nicest looking sheds i've seen in a while.
you can tell he's a pro, he has a polo neck shirt with a logo on the tit.
you are working very clean! not many people do so.
Thanks Nick, appreciate the kind words!
No pad stone on top of the brickwork? all lintals should by regulation sit on pad stones,especially if load bearing,oh dear.
only if the masonry requires a padstone. a pad just distributes the loads if the original point of contact cannot support the weight. The compressive strength of bricks is high, which can generally support small point loads.
It's a concrete lintel so doesn't require padstones. If an RSJ was used it would need padstones.
Look at the NHBC Regulations, if its load bearing and depending on the span it does,@@johnpugh8743
400 dislikes? are there any professionals here who can point out anything wrong/points for improvement with this job?
Als je behang problemen wilt vermijden en snel één proffesionele behanger wilt zou ik via www.offertesbrabant.nl/behangers een aanvraag doen. Krijg je snel vele prijsopgaves van verschillende behangers toegestuurd en kan je ze vergelijken met elkaar
Is it safe to remove the Loading bearing wall for first floor and also plan to build second floor???
I'd def get planning they likely recommend a steel lintel /beam
Nice video! A quick tip with spray glueing plastic angles on, spray both the back of your angle and the surface you’re sticking it to, let them sit for a minute or two to become tacky and slap the angle on. It’ll stick much better than with spray glue just on the back of the angle.
Thank you, it was very clear and knowledgeable. Very helpful for graduate civil engineers who don’t have much exposure to practical know-hows.
Thanks Abhijeet 👍
Your work is very clean and professional, I would like you to do the same on my internal wall between dining room and living room.
YOU HAVE BEAR GRILLS WORKING FOR YOU?!
Well spotted 😂🤣
You simply cannot fault the straightforward 'can-do' approach of the Australians - a very professional and useful film chaps !
Hi there, thank you for sharing the video.
How much does this type of job cost? I just want to get an idea on cost, because I'm looking to buy a house where we will require to knock down two walls. I'm trying to determine if the extra cost will be worth it. Your feedback would be much appreciated. Thank you.
That was a brilliant video. Thanks guys
Amazing work, thanks for sharing your creativity and Amazing work.
Excellent vid - thanks v much guys. Thinking of doing a very similar thing to my house in Wales
I,ve been looking for a video like this on the youtube and now i found. I need to do the same thing in my house. thanks.
Highly recommended to cross brace the props for any accidental lateral shifting failure. Good Word buddy. Keep it up 👌
What's the rule for the needles? How thick, how many/ distance between eachother etc. I need to make a 4m opening in a load bearing wall and I don't really know how many needles I should put in as support...Thanks to anyone who will reply!
You are is best....thanks
Just wondering how much would doing something like this cost nowadays? Thinking of doing it. Thanks
Whats the load on the load bearing brick wall. Also do mention the dimensions of the brick wall....
Nice n' clean project execution....👍👍
Regards,
Sushil Madhukar Adhikari
Thanks man rebuilding my house and this method helped me a lot much love to you man !!!!
Devon Logan Cheers mate, glad it helped!
Great job. Thank you for the time and effort you took to make this video and share it with us. Greetings from Croatia
Your welcome 🙏
Great professional job! Thanks for sharing your skills and knowledge.
this is the best video I've seen on here. Stirling job guys!
Paul Freed Thankyou Paul, glad you enjoyed it.
Our Build hi guys. Awesome video. Can you provide a rough cost for a similar job? I’m Australian based (Sydney) so any quote range would be appreciated. Chris
Most certainly better with a bed of mortar on top of the Lintol then Acrow it up so there is full contact and no point loading [ which you will get with wedges ] nice job though.
Perfect exactly what i was looking for
Thank you sir!
Needles .what did you use to put through the wall...
Um , I have to say that was a nice informative video, an easy nice way to get that info over 10/10
Cheers legend
Great vid , I think I'm going to give my wall a try myself
Hell of a mortar course at the top of that new pier........
Hahahaha thats what i was thinking. Would have definately added some steel packers between the brick and concrete lintel. Make them about 7mm by 20mm by 30mm and stack em up. Still will be able to render them and the support will be much more reliable than the mortar. Everything else though was perfect
Hi how do you ensure that the last brick at the top makes good contact with the concrete lintel for load transfer? Because the mortar in between is initially soft right? Do you just wait until the mortar dries up before removing the props? How do you ensure compactness of the mortar at this location to make it load bearing? thanks
Good question. Sadly ignored tho
Usually left to go of untill the next day mate. As paddstones would sink like you suggested
use pack the gap with non-shrink structural grout
very nice guy,very nice info,great video,thanks
Good info ... just would have liked to see you guys wearing dust masks !
What is each end of the lintel sat on? Did you just pack the space with lots of mortar?
Thanks for the video. My wall is a solid 30cm thick. Do i just put in two 140mm X 100MM and bat them together?
Textbook,a bit annoying really coz i could not find a fault.Well done lads.
Thank you very, very, very much for this video. It will help much with my next home project.
Que raro los americanos construyendo con tabiques y con muros de cemento
Fantastic Video, Thx.
Can you tell me where you got your facemasks from please?
Having our wall taken out between the kitchen and dining room so interesting to see what goes on when I am at work :) I love watching these projects take shape but always out the house when it happens. Thanks for the video!
You’ve made this look so easy, thank you
Great video. Helped me talk knowledgeably to the builders who did this for me. How do you then deal with the floor gap after the wall is removed? I have tiles and the builders were able to not crack any of the existing ones. How do I fill in the gap? (It will eventually have kitchen units covering it, so no need to level or re-tile luckily). Thanks in advance :-)
Great to hear Tracy! If it will be covered later I would fill will some particle board or plywood. Good luck with the rest of it 👍
.
Most important- No 1 - I didn't hear anything about 'load bearing" or "not", until the very end.
As the wall is 4" it is not likely to be seriously load bearing.
The selection of the modest steel lintel is confirmation of that. So proceed with minimal Acrow props.
.
At 3minutes 46 seconds you have the needles out loading the lintel and leaving the pc lintel to hog over the single acro prop! Single strand PC lintels are not meant to be loaded that way, It is likely the manufacturer would consider this inappropriate handling!
What's the equipment you used???pls reply
Perhaps adding a layer of loose wet mortal on top of the length of lintel before place it in its place would have distributed the downward load better and avoided the localised outer pressure points caused by those tapered wedges to preload the bricks on the lintel. The wedges only acted on the outer edges of the bricks and the lintel and not along its centre line , which was left void.
Seeing that there was a good gap, the bricks at floating end of the lintel on the new wall should have been drilled vertically and a tie rod inserted and grouted to tie the new wall to the old wall in a vertical manner and not only on its side with those galvanised steel ties.This would ensure a better structure and anything hitting the new wall will not cause it to sway sideways.
At 4:12 It was wrong to insert those final pressure wedges before the lintel was supported on the new wall as the lintel pre-stressing was not effective considering that the temporary vertical steel support was far away from the wall and when it was removed the lintel had to settled a little.
In my country we would have been less comfortable but more pompous and ornate to show off to the neighbours and made an arch with thicker than wall abutments, with decorated imposts and interlocked voissoirs and a projected crown to make us feel that we are at St Paul's Cathedral or Westminister Cathedral in London or Santa Maria del fuore cathedral in Florence. British homes are modest and humble and more comfortable than ours!
Thanks for the detailed review of the installation, i would love to see one of your pompous St Pauls attempts at the same style of construction LOL :)
Cheers mate, take care.
a few gargoyles wouldn't have hurt. neat job btw, just the reality check i needed... i'm not going to diy this one, chrs
@@akapopag do it then sell the house
Great shares guys, enjoyed watching. Excellent job.
did you throw a shrimp on the barby when you finished?
I'm sure you will find amazing woodworking plans on the Stodoys plans website.
I like this is contrution, very very good men
Hey James, Great video. Are the needles you refer to separate to the acroprops?
Also when fitting in a heavy (370kg) 4000mm wide beam, we'll be using lifters, but would you recommend sliding it into position at first?
Cheers for such a great video
Hi Dan, yes the needles are the support timbers or steel that is inserted under the brickwork and then the acrow props go up to the needles. Hard to say about the position of the beam, generally if its something large and heavy i would get it in close to the opening and then use a genie lift to wind it up unto position.
Hi James, could you please kindly advise how much it total cost for this certain project there? Please share
This is really informative James! Quick question, do you normally paint the ENTIRE room again or just the part that needs touch up / patching?
i want to create a doorway entrance from my house to the garage but theres a load-bearing block wall in the way. I was wondering what kind of stone you put as a beam? I was thinking using steel beams but you but a stone beam instead?
main thing you missing is how did you put support beam in place, when you have jack post on the way. In your case there's planty of space, but usualy we need to put the support beam fist, then jack post on the other side of the wall, then we demolish old wall, lift the support beam, put it into place.
How you know the floor can support the weight? Better make a totally independent balance construction. So many times I have seen this go wrong. Also if it's a big opening, put the iron beams (if making a portal) first between the supporters. Also use shrink free mortal !
well, you have to be care full you are transferring distributed loads to concentrated point loads. You can get settlements due to re-distribution of loads. Always consult an engineer for this type of work.
Hi I will be building an addition interior brick wall and joining it to an old existing brick wall. Could you show me how to join the walls old and new walls please... I can give you more info on the project if you like.
+Rose Robin , Hi Rose, sure happy to help. Fire me an email to my contacts page on any of the links below.
+Our Build I sent you a message through G+ :) Thanks
How do you do it if you have a 40cm wide load bearing wall? Is it the same principle but with steel needles? Thanks!
Muito bom!
벽돌 제거하는 법 전문가의 설명과 방법을 공유해주셔서 감사합니다.
깨끗하고 말끔하게 시공을 하셨내요 영상 공유 감사합니다. 응원합니다.
Good efforts and mind hardwork
Thank you. How did you find the plaster on to the galvanised beam, please?
what is yr advice about lintel dimension cause I wanna do an opening about 2m10 height and 1m width. thanks
If you have 2 windows in the wall and you want to open the wall and leave the pillar between the windows....would you still need a lintel
Stunning job, thanks for the explanation on how to.
Your welcome Dave
How did you manage to get Bear Grylls to help?
Hahaha, he does look like him 😆
Wish you can do this at my house.
great video, to the point
Do you really believe the load of the wall above is on the iron bar? I dont think so. Since u can remove the bar and wall above still remained intact i guess it is just a psychological bar placement. Actually the cement is holding the bricks of the wall above... U like it or not.
How the fuck did you lift the lintel up there?
I'm sure you will find amazing woodworking plans on Stodoys.
At 1:24 , is it good to use massive cutter to cut bricks in neat shape ?
I am afraid thay brick is too hard for a electric cutter .
great video, thanks, what was the metal thing you were cutting off with the angle grinder?
Muy buen laburo
cheers boss!
Your welcome 👍
Great video, James!
Just wondering why a concrete lintel rather than a steel one? And is this enough support if there’s a whole other floor above this one? Or was this done in a bungalow? Thanks!
how high can you go? i want to extend kitchen into a bathroom for more space, but the idea of a lentil (?) would really ruin the whole idea.thanks
How does a job very similar to cost in Phoenix, AZ
Number of lintel in one brick wall
Great stuff!
Hi. What is the reason for the L brackets placed in between the new bricks?
I don't understand what is above the removal wall and need support.
Hello James! Greetings from Blighty! Really enjoyed watching your Vid, so I liked & Subscribed to your site, look forward to watching all your work, build Well, Work Safe Mate! See You Later Mate
+TheAudiostud Thanks for watching mate!
Amazing work 👌👌👌
I want to convert my sitting room into a bed room, and build a closet. But my sitting room is small, so l'm thinking of breaking down the wall separating the sitting room and the garage, and build a closet that will take some space in the garage rather, and have a sliding door in the bed room.
What advice can you give me before l do this project?. #PleaseHelp
Very professional!!
Can concrete lintel be used for an internal load bearing wall , 2 metre wide opening
Nice work
Why didn't he use a longer concrete support/lentil to go into the original wall to make the opening wider instead of having build up the blocks and make the opening smaller?
Because that's the opening size that my client requested.
Great job!
We have builders in to widen an existing doorway to and extention into a kitchen, how long should it take to knock out the wall.
My builder took a whole day to take out 2 rows of bricks as you have done and marked out the opening with an angle grinder saying the wall is external and its very hard! Is this normal or are they taking too long as we are paying a daily rate!
Any help would be great.
Many thanks
Hard to say how long something should take as every job is different with its own unique challenges. Good luck with it 👍
1:25 if you try to cut down a masonry wall with an angle grinder you'd not be able to breathe because of the dust!
There should be clouds of dust where are they?
It's a wet saw
@@OurBuild Ahh thank you