Really, this is more difficult than it absolutely has to be. The homeowner must have wanted the beam set into the ceiling such that it didn't protrude into the living space at all. That difference made this much more involved than it might have been otherwise.
Great video guys! Hoomeowners should consult a structural engineer before doing this. They didn't explain that the ceiling load was distributed throughout the 2x4s of the original wall and onto the floor joists. When you install the beam on top of two 4x4 posts, the load is now distributed to those two 4x4 posts and they need to be placed onto the floor in a location that can support the extra load; the placement is not random.
@@sleepmachine7522 If there is a basement you need to ensure that wherever those two 4x4's are bearing down on the floor joist below it's capable of supporting the load. When he says "unless it's a slab" he means unless the floor is a concrete slab with no floor below. If there is only a concrete slab foundation below then it would be more than capable of holding the focused weight.
You could also use 2 or 3 studs(commonly known as a stud pack)if you have extra instead of a post, also you could use a sawzall and cut through the nails at the bottom and top of the studs in the old wall removing the whole stud with less dust and clean up than cutting them in the middle, you could also use the sawzall to cut on each side of the top plate of the old wall using the edge of the plate as a guide removing the plate while also cutting the space for the beam without having to pop lines
And, if done properly, reuse the studs for the post as you mentioned. Just be sure you know and follow the nailing schedule to assemble it, or better follow it using screws that reach all three studs.
Perlin braces got installed the day after we installed the beam, remember, you want those perlin braces to be on something that can take the weight! In this case, the double LVL we installed.. If you have any questions, feel free to drop them under this comment.. I'd love to help you out! My audio on my GoPro got screwed up on the later half of the video - I bought new aluminium housings, and apparently it blocked the Microphone.. "Bear" with me! ;) Hope you all enjoy, super simple process, most don't understand it though..
@@edwhite101 I had one of those for a while, it broke and was not fixable, forgot what it was called. Hitachi makes a very nice hanger nailer now, it's a beast.
Looks great!! ... but I'm sure shortly after installation ...the homeowner wished he'd have had you run the LVL beam all the way to the outside wall...You could have removed that doorway as well...would have been totally open...
worn out asbestos can be a hit or miss, my stepfather and a few of my relatives worked at asbestos plants and never wore masks and they are in their 80s still kicking. Sure it might cause harm to certain people and those that are constantly sucking it in but it has been blown out of proportion because it becomes a multi billion dollar industry when it comes to remediation and permits
Yeah the part he doesn't talk about is people watch this thinking they can do it then people like me get paid to fix everything costing twice as much if not more.... pay a insured professional
A little late to watching this video so someone might have mentioned it you forgot to show transferring the load thru the floor system done to the foundation.
Wouldn't it be the same? The beam occupies the same exact space the wall did, so wouldn't the wall have to already have sufficient support down to the foundation? Or is it different when you put a beam in?
mae2759 a wall transfers load oil over a floor span. When you use a post to carry all that load its call "point loading" and requires you to confirm a footer or figure something out.
Great work...I'm planning to do the same but 6m span therefore going steel beam. Question: re bracing/purlins in roof...is that needed only when beam is not exposed as in video attached to joists with hangers? And bracing not required if beam is exposed under ceiling? Thanks heaps from New Zealand
normally load bearing walls continue from one side to the next? It stopped at the kitchen? Is there a wall that was removed in the past and would you worry about future problems?
My house has engineered trusses that are supported by the front and rear block walls of the house meaning there is no need for load bearing walls in the center of the house!
I like this concept... the music too! I understand a few steps were missed for this video to be a fully instructional. Would be nice if you would just mention the missed steps somewhere in the video so as to keep your audiences informed of them. Each job is different and I really liked this residential reno project you showed... framing videos ressemble each other after a while, especially when plans are not shown. This video is very much in tune with what I do (extension, additions, strengthening, full and partial reconstructions, etc.) and I am sure many of your viewers enjoyed this work detour of yours. Good video
Ohh shit dude, you cut the ceiling joist splice! Ceiling joists form the bottom of the roof triangle and are in tension to hold the roof up. The ceiling joist overlap where the bearing wall was and the beam is now was supposed to be nailed to hold the tension force with a splice, its in the IRC. LUS24's and really all simpson hangers have ZERO tension capacity for pulling the joist / rafter away from the beam. You gotta put straps across the bottom ALL of those rafters where they splice at the beam. Either like a CSHP18 or an LSTA24 maybe across the bottom or a DTT2Z with a rod through the center of the beam would work to splice the tension across the beam. Yeah you basically broke the bottom part of the roof framing triangle. The joists will pull right out of those hangers in tension. They have bearing, shear, and uplift only, zero tension.
That’s not our gig.. They demo’d roof WAY too soon, and their roofer isn’t coming back to dry it in. Luckily, this place sees rain once a year.. Theyll be fine, but trust me, I agree.
Those group of people that are silly and soft in the head thinking wood was bending because a fish eye lens was used , should not take on home improvement projects and attempt to use dangerous power tools . Thank you for a great Video. . Job well done.
I was considering having a load bearing wall removed to open up the kitchen to the living room. There's another level underneath so that complicates things (e.g. if it wasn't done correctly the front part of the house would collapse). An engineer would need to be consulted, blueprints drawn up, permit obtained and an inspection done. I'm in California. The contractor estimated it would be $5000 to $7000. I'm leaning towards not doing it since it would delay my renovation.
I have a basement below my kitchen/living. Same situation as Rachel, I got quotes for 50-70k for a kitchen remodel with removal of a load bearing wall in California early 2022.
@@rachels7252 You can sometimes go above it like he did or good below it. In the basement you can put support down there also instead of just above it. In some cases .
Nice! So much more straight forward in the US. In Europe we have te get a big ass metal I-beam, and a whole lot of brick removal. Takes up to two days with 3 people.
Though the term “load bearing” is correct, what load is the wall actually bearing? It’s a truss type roof system and all the load is transferred to the outside walls. Cool saw by the way.
not a truss even if it looks like one. A truss is an engineered structure; it has to have an enginer's stamp for it to be an actual truss. This roof structure was stick framed and looks like it actually did have collar ties but they were high collar; what he should have done instead of the purlins, is install a mid span collar tie as temp shoring for the potential splaying of the rafters BEFORE he cut the joists. This kid got lucky, hopefully he'll learn
@TJP 81 depends on where the point load is but...chances are if the load is that great then the truss has been compromised ;-) But I wasnt talking about this, I was talking about the purlin 'beam' the contractor said would prevent bowing of the roof rafters. Hes kinda right but any load on one rafter w/the purlin would not transfer much load onto the next purlin for how stick framing assemblies behave. He should have attached some mid rise collars, even if it were to be in his crew's way. But this is all moot anyhow since, all he needed todo was at maximum triple up (full span) the existing 2x8s? where the wall below would be removed; saving time, money and renovation costs to the HO.
Matt, I realize that videos are limited in showing all that is done, but I do have a question: Did you glue and screw the LVL’s to each other once you raised them? Keep up the instructional component in your videos; you have excellent knack for teaching.
Hello Roy. Great question because following the proper nailing pattern on a LVL beam is crucial for proper load transfer through the beam. Nails or screws in an LVL is sufficient with the load they are carrying in this video but you should NEVER glue LVL together as this will actually keep the plys from acting as one solid beam. The glue can not bond the wood fibers together like in conventional lumber due to the water resistant coating the is applied to the LVL surface at the factory.
Mytown Nope. Just some good ole fashion carpentry. Hopefully whatever was holding up the wall before is still holding up the posts supporting the entire roof.
I'm a licensed PE. I make a lot of money every year calculating out and placing beams to do this type of work in houses. Not something you want to go into without an engineer to figure your beam size or post placement.
because your money will dry up? Folks were building houses and larger structures before engineers came along. (i.e. ark built by beginner / titanic built by engineers)
@billybrewer4039 a good contractor can do a good job BUT I've still seen plenty of stuff that people intuitively think will work but it doesn't. You're arrogant and wildly ignorant if you think you have the skill and expertise to do my job. Also: who takes liability? I also am paid to take liability for my work. Sure, most calcs I do are pretty simple but if you want to take responsibility for people's lives like I do WITHOUT my training, go for it.
Great Video. One question though: What do these 4x4 posts sit on? You need to make sure the loads from these posts can be safely transferred down to the foundations.
Hey thanks for this video very helpful, I have a question. The bracing going on top of the been, I didn't see it being installed. Or you left it with the ones you added for strength?
The only load was from the weight of the ceiling. The ceiling joist you cut we're under tension to form the triangle for the roof load. That type of rough wants to scissor the walls out . So the walls have to be tied together . So if you would have had a roof on that house as soon as you cut the ceiling joist the exterior walls of the house would have tried to push out into the yard. The support walls wouldn't have helped much.
Nice but who sized that beam? I use pairs of 7 1/4" LVL when I'm dealing with actual second floor 2x8 joists for a span like that (8'-10'). Two 14" LVL seems wildly over sized. Those glorified collar ties just carry the weight of the drywall ceiling.
The biggest thing people forget about is that load bearing wall one supported the load over the whole wall now you wave two big load points. Always remember to beef up what's under the wall as well
I was just talking to someone about that! Subfloors crack, dip down, etc. Most definitely have to do something about the two load points you've created in the floor.
@@MattBangsWood All you need below the two load points are lally columns in the basement. Sometimes you are lucky and there could be one close so all you have to do is block to it. If the load near the fridge side has no lally all you need to add is a lally with a 28"x14" footing under the new lally. I have been doing architectural drawings for about 9 years now and see these scenarios every week!
That's what I was thinking, where's the part of the video showing load transfer all the way down to foundation or footer? even is there's a beam below where are the squash blocks ?
Did you see the shirt?! I'm sending you one out, expect it soon. :) BANG ON! This isn't the house we're flipping, it's a clients home. Trust me, it's weird doing residential instead of framing..
Wrong. All of them will need a beam to carry the load, thats basic engineering. Whether the beam is steel, or LVL and the size is what the engineer tells you.
You boys need masks on like real ones. Look at all that particulate in the air don’t want that in your lungs when your in 60s you will thank me. Also ear protection.
And the electric chainsaw is a great idea. Going to add one of those to my tool box. Much easier than a reciprocating saw when you are not working around nails
my dad was called to a job where the homeowner decided to do the remodeling himself my father was walking inside the house when you notice the baseboard and floors where about an inch or more apart the second thing he noticed with how big the rooms were he asked the guy who did the construction the homeowner said he did he took out most all the walls including all the wall bearing walls on both floors my father ended up condemning the guy's house because the house could collapse in on itself that's how bad it was if you don't know what you're doing stop and consult a professional
Keep in mind that the floor is also supported by joists that are in turn supported by a carrying beam that’s supported by columns set in concrete footings. What he’s doing is ok but there must be sufficient support under the new load bearing 4x4’s to bear the new load. The LVL well do it’s job fine but it must be properly supported too.
That's not a bearing wall in the proverbial sense...I have torn out many, many bearing walls...A true bearing wall supports a live load or Masonry....A sister and a stiff back would have given you the same support...It's just ceiling sheetrock...If they were planning on using the attic you would have to up size the ceiling joist/studs and then use a bearing wall. It's overbuilt...Those two LVL's are ridiculous...Building and Remodeling contractor for nearly 40 years.
Ida tried to go out to the side wall. Why do all that work to still have a post in the middle. It looks load bearing but the joists toward the outer wall are not if they are the same kinda joist. Couldn't you put the beam on top and hang the joists from under it so you wouldn't have to cut them all. I did that for a 20' span...
Load bearing walls either sit on beams or foundation walls so he's just transferring the load to the beam below. Where I live, no work would get done without an engineer signing off on it as it's the law so I hear where you're coming from, at the very least, an engineer would have to approve the posts and beams and point loads on the below structure.
@@MV-wb2cz yeah that post is sitting on 1 floor joist. Even if it’s a 1x12, I’m not sure that it’s designed to support that kind of point load without a lot of deflection
@@Markism07 If this load bearing wall is sitting on 1 floor joist then there should have been some work below either double or triple up the joist to support that kind of point load. Where I am from load bearing walls always sit on top of a beam or foundation wall.
How are those brackets that your rafter ties sit in, going to let those rafter ties stop rafter spread? - The entire reason the joists are there to begin with?
I wondered the same thing. Either instal a rafter tie above the beam or install an approved engineered strap across the bottom of the beam and existing rafter ties/ceiling joists.
I think you may have missed a step, which is to have someone calculate the load and size the beam for you. It seems like you just arbitrarily chose the beam dimensions and went with it. Aren't you required to have a drawing from an architect/engineer for the permit?
Hey brother much love from San Diego, Ca. Appreciate the time you take to create the content on your channel. If you wouldn't mind, could you mention some tips/commentary on how to safely work with a circular saw and the power tools in general as you're using them? Thanks Matt!
Do you know where I can get more information on which type of LVL to use? . When to go wider? I have one opening of 80 inches/6 feet and 8 inches. It seems like it was done with one LVL (1.75 by 9.25 inches) and a 2 by 10 put together. Will that be enough? It holding up a second level and empty attic.
the last job that I did the second floor was so much weight that I added to beams and piece of Steel sandwiched in between on both sides of the kitchen walls that we removed the one beam was holding up the middle of the house the house and the other was holding up the back wall of the house that's why we put the steel in between
Randy Dueck the part that was the biggest pain in the ass that one was 16 ft and the other was 14 ft and we ended up putting those together inside the house they had it be 10 of us to lift them into position the whole purpose was to make the living room kitchen dining room one big open room and this was a flip house that we ended up buying to resell and the first family that came to look ask if they purchase the house if we could put walls up because they didn't like how everything was open I wanted to pass out it was part of their religion that they like smaller rooms not open I guess you can't make everybody happy
I dont know what he uses but you can use a 'Paslode PPN35Ci Lithium Gas Positive Placement Twist Nail Gun for Fixing Joist Hangers & Brackets (1x 2.1Ah, Case) ' that's what i use
Not being in construction, your video is very impressive. I have a load bearing wall in my master bath. want to remodel so now I have a beginners understanding of how to! Thanks!!
Rob Estoll It’s a bit hard to tell the insurance company and inspectors that this is how we bought it when there’s a video of the remodel. Just hope those 4x4s are supported from beneath!
AWESOME to see YOUNG guys interested in working with their hands these days! Seems like most younger guys are interested in sitting at a computer terminal instead of BUILDING/MAKING something. Keep up the Banging Matt!!!
There will always be blue collar men that like wrenching or building things that aren't afraid to get dirty. The problem is modern liberals have made it (or coined the term) "toxic masculinity" to be a man and act like a man and they own all the media from TV, to tech to most major publication companies and even our schools and colleges so all we hear about is the attempt to indoctrination with praising the soy drinking in touch with their feminist side beta males getting all the attention these days, not real men that know right from wrong and aren't afraid of hard work. We all need to be vocal too and make it clear that the blue collar men are what make society work and they are the real hero's in the western world or this cuck trend will only get worse...
@@AtomicReverend Could you provide some example of soy drink and being in touch with feminist side that modern liberals commonly voice out? I guess you could say I'm a modern liberal in CA, but I wrench on my own car and get my hands dirty when possible. I work a tech job and occasionally style my hair that is commonly stereotyped as well. I appreciate the effort blue collar workers do. Yet despite all this, I don't really understand what makes us a problem? I don't view blue collar men any less than white collar men. In big cities where cost of living is higher, it just makes sense financially to choose a white collar job over a blue collar job in the long run. Assuming there is always consistent self-growth, the white collar salary would continue to go up the more you age vs blue collar job where opportunities dwindle due to age and loss in strength. As a "modern liberal", I choose and voice for services to help all (including those that chose blue collar jobs and are outside of their prime) so people in general can live a relatively comfortable life
@@megaxzero88 man, do any of you ever do research before you comment... I guess I am stereo typing but that is a different subject. Let's use Starbucks as they are as far as I know the biggest coffee house on the planet and definitely stereotyped as the liberal met up place. How about the caffe latté? Or the caffe mocha? How about Caramel Macchiatos? Or the Chestnut Praline Latte? Do I need to go on? It is a fact that soy produces synthetic estrogen and if consumed in large amounts it can actually affect a male's testosterone levels. As for White Collar jobs paying more than blue collar jobs that is a normal myth that we have all heard for 30 or 40 years that doesn't stand up under scrutiny, look up the pay a journeyman electrician makes or a journeyman ironworker or a Automotive assembly plant worker, look lookup an ase-certified master technician that's the mechanic that works on your car at a dealership or most professional shops, how about a journeyman (or certified) plumber or a journeyman (or certified) contractor... All of these jobs have crazy high pays once you are seasoned with a great skill set. Agian you start off at the bottom just like you do with any job or career and you work your way up. As an example an entry-level framer in Southern California makes about $20 an hour which isn't bad pay for a starting wage that requires no schooling, if he sticks with the job and becomes a master Carpenter over about 5 to 10 years time he will make up words of 45 to 55 bucks an hour... Great pay and he is the one you have to thank when you can close your door at night. I am not talking bad on White Collar jobs, but for literally 40 years every youth has been told that they have to go to college to get a good job they end up in 50 to $100,000 worth of debt right out the gate for a job market that is generally flooded with accountants and liberal arts people (and the other jobs that 40+ years ago paid well), even cyber-security is starting to get flooded because of the amount of college graduates entering the emerging field... I am not saying the pay isn't good in any of those jobs because I'm sure there are plenty of examples of it paying well but my point still remains the blue collar worker is the unsung hero of society he is the one that gives you a roof he is the one that makes your bodily waste go away, he is the one that makes your car run, he or she is the one that sells you your food, that grows your food, that trucks your food and almost all of those jobs actually require more then labor but literally the years of hands-on experience... an automotive mechanic takes two years just to become an entry-level to become an ase-certified master technician generally it is a five to eight year process. All your journeyman Union jobs take about 5 years of going to school every other weekend... Also blue collar men generally get plenty of exercise and don't need a gym membership and even as we age those who are physically active are generally healthier but there is a lot of variables to that statement but you think once party will actually give out is a bunch of crap also. I have been in the construction field for going on 20 years and I have a good diet and a killer physique for my age group and I would never step foot into a gym but again I degress.
@@AtomicReverend First off, I'm going to keep this brief because there is no point in discussing this any further. Anything I say that doesn't fall in line with your mindset is immediately taken as offense to you. 1) Not sure why you need to say I haven't done any research? I worked on cars and received two ASE certificates before admitting this is not something long term for me. I know there is money in blue collar labor 2) All those drinks you listed are milk based. Soy is just an alternative and personally, most soy drinkers I know are female. 3) I'm glad you have a great physique, but that's not what I see here in LA with most blue collar jobs. No matter what physical labor takes a toll on the back, knee, joints.
Try doing it with on a load bearing wall with an electrical sub panel smack dab in the middle! I just renovated my condo and had the joy of that experience.
Matt, is it possible to set the double LVL beam above the ceiling joist and then strap the ceiling joist to the LVL and not cutting the joist for the LVL?
It could be possible? I've never seen it done. You'd need your posts to sit up extra high to try that though. I'd say either way would be about the same in labor.
I have done a fair number these beam installs and I had a structural engineer suggest I set the LVL beam slightly higher than the ceiling joist and then strap the joist to the sides of the LVL with Simpson strapping and try to raise the ceiling joist a small amount so that when the wall was removed it would set the ceiling level. Thanks for your reply’s!
Love these videos. Now I can firmly place “removing a load bearing wall” into my “I’m definitely not DIY-ing this” bucket.
Literally thought the same thing 😆
Same 🤣 I am absolutely not ready to DIY that
Girl, do it. You’re more than capable
I agree 100%. You will never catch me doing this. But, I would enjoy helping these guys pull this off.
Really, this is more difficult than it absolutely has to be. The homeowner must have wanted the beam set into the ceiling such that it didn't protrude into the living space at all. That difference made this much more involved than it might have been otherwise.
Fish eye lens was an odd choice for documenting a project involving so many straight horizontal lines.
I had to really look at it because I though the house was bending
I was just about to post something about that. I keep thinking it's going to collapse on him.
For a moment I was wondering if I was seeing things 😂
Haha I was like THOSE SHORE SUPPORT BEAMS ARE BENDING HARD
wide angle.. not fisheye.. fisheye would be WAY worse..
Great video guys! Hoomeowners should consult a structural engineer before doing this. They didn't explain that the ceiling load was distributed throughout the 2x4s of the original wall and onto the floor joists. When you install the beam on top of two 4x4 posts, the load is now distributed to those two 4x4 posts and they need to be placed onto the floor in a location that can support the extra load; the placement is not random.
unless it's a slab
@@dustdistrict9296 can you elaborate, please? For learning purposes
@@sleepmachine7522 If there is a basement you need to ensure that wherever those two 4x4's are bearing down on the floor joist below it's capable of supporting the load. When he says "unless it's a slab" he means unless the floor is a concrete slab with no floor below. If there is only a concrete slab foundation below then it would be more than capable of holding the focused weight.
@@JustinMelville 🎯
@@JustinMelville yes
You could also use 2 or 3 studs(commonly known as a stud pack)if you have extra instead of a post, also you could use a sawzall and cut through the nails at the bottom and top of the studs in the old wall removing the whole stud with less dust and clean up than cutting them in the middle, you could also use the sawzall to cut on each side of the top plate of the old wall using the edge of the plate as a guide removing the plate while also cutting the space for the beam without having to pop lines
This guy gets it
And, if done properly, reuse the studs for the post as you mentioned. Just be sure you know and follow the nailing schedule to assemble it, or better follow it using screws that reach all three studs.
How do you get the wood to curve so nice? Looks like rubber 2x4s. (Just kidding on the fisheye lens)
I followed the instructions and now I don’t have a home.
Yoshi0 Hahahaha you tube will get ya
😂🤣🤣🤣😂
Yoshi0 what went wrong
Should have been fine. TH-cam is totally legit.
Bro u made my day!😂
Perlin braces got installed the day after we installed the beam, remember, you want those perlin braces to be on something that can take the weight! In this case, the double LVL we installed..
If you have any questions, feel free to drop them under this comment.. I'd love to help you out!
My audio on my GoPro got screwed up on the later half of the video - I bought new aluminium housings, and apparently it blocked the Microphone.. "Bear" with me! ;)
Hope you all enjoy, super simple process, most don't understand it though..
purlin*
I spelled it right in the video, wrong in the comments. 😂 Damn it!
Hey awesome vids! What particular nail gun are you using to nail the LUS24's? Thanks!
Did a structural engineer determine the beam size or give any guidance on this?
@@edwhite101 I had one of those for a while, it broke and was not fixable, forgot what it was called.
Hitachi makes a very nice hanger nailer now, it's a beast.
Looks great!! ... but I'm sure shortly after installation ...the homeowner wished he'd have had you run the LVL beam all the way to the outside wall...You could have removed that doorway as well...would have been totally open...
I thought the same
Or at least just make a trimmed out column there instead of a short wall.
Just a built in excuse if his shit ain't straight... man that's the lens
from a person at 76 who has copd you need to wear a mask working in those spaces. I have worked the trades for 60 yrs
did you also smoke ever?
People who have asbestosis, a lung disease caused by asbestos, may develop COPD as a complication
worn out asbestos can be a hit or miss, my stepfather and a few of my relatives worked at asbestos plants and never wore masks and they are in their 80s still kicking. Sure it might cause harm to certain people and those that are constantly sucking it in but it has been blown out of proportion because it becomes a multi billion dollar industry when it comes to remediation and permits
Yeah you can see all the debris when the sun is at the right angle.
This guy is young. What happens to most guys in this trade as they get to late 40s and 50s? Dont their lower backs go to crap?
Great HOW TO video! I learned a lot, great graphics and explanation! John 😎🤘
luv the facts that you tell how much it would cost to have it remove
I can’t find where he mention princing
@@toldf in the thumbnail
Yeah the part he doesn't talk about is people watch this thinking they can do it then people like me get paid to fix everything costing twice as much if not more.... pay a insured professional
A little late to watching this video so someone might have mentioned it you forgot to show transferring the load thru the floor system done to the foundation.
Kevin O'Brien unless it’s not a Crawl space or basement and it’s actually a Concrete slab under it .
Sometimes even a slab is not enough support. It may need its own footing.
Dalex AAB either way they should have addressed it in the video as something to be considered
Wouldn't it be the same? The beam occupies the same exact space the wall did, so wouldn't the wall have to already have sufficient support down to the foundation? Or is it different when you put a beam in?
mae2759 a wall transfers load oil over a floor span. When you use a post to carry all that load its call "point loading" and requires you to confirm a footer or figure something out.
Great work...I'm planning to do the same but 6m span therefore going steel beam. Question: re bracing/purlins in roof...is that needed only when beam is not exposed as in video attached to joists with hangers? And bracing not required if beam is exposed under ceiling? Thanks heaps from New Zealand
Dude you got me thinking I need a cordless chainsaw now 🤔
Awesome video btw 👌🏽
It’s the bees knees.
WorldsWorst Fifaplayr theres some really nice ones out now buy chainsaw company’s lots of comparison videos Electric to gas here on TH-cam. Cheers
normally load bearing walls continue from one side to the next? It stopped at the kitchen? Is there a wall that was removed in the past and would you worry about future problems?
I'm sure it's been said but that fish eye lens made the boards look bowed af! Lol
Well done Matt. Your videography and articulate explanations make this an informative and enjoyable video to watch. Thank you.
I’m slightly miffed the customer didn’t ask for it to go across the entire room, that post in the middle of the floor would annoy the crap out of me 😆
that would take a MASSIVE LVL, probAbly a quad lvl 25' footer.
It's going to blend into that small wall and they probably did it that way to be able to end the cabinets on that wall instead of making it an island.
Money my man!! Lots and lots of money
My house has engineered trusses that are supported by the front and rear block walls of the house meaning there is no need for load bearing walls in the center of the house!
Thanks for letting us know? 🤔
And? 🤔
And?
Lots of buildings have no load bearing wall.... Think of literally every garage?
I like this concept... the music too! I understand a few steps were missed for this video to be a fully instructional. Would be nice if you would just mention the missed steps somewhere in the video so as to keep your audiences informed of them. Each job is different and I really liked this residential reno project you showed... framing videos ressemble each other after a while, especially when plans are not shown. This video is very much in tune with what I do (extension, additions, strengthening, full and partial reconstructions, etc.) and I am sure many of your viewers enjoyed this work detour of yours.
Good video
As an Architectural Designer your videos give us a look into a GC's world. Thank you, stellar work!!
I’m a spark by trade, but absolutely love the framing videos ! Can’t get enough! Another great video
Appreciate you Zack! Dead honest, I always wanted to be a sparky. Due to my schooling, families history in the trades, I ended up going chippy..
Very nice job very informal you did a better job than This Old House
Better than This Old House? How dare you sir.
Me: Yeah I'll grab the sawzall for that
Matt: *takes out chainsaw*
Ohh shit dude, you cut the ceiling joist splice! Ceiling joists form the bottom of the roof triangle and are in tension to hold the roof up. The ceiling joist overlap where the bearing wall was and the beam is now was supposed to be nailed to hold the tension force with a splice, its in the IRC. LUS24's and really all simpson hangers have ZERO tension capacity for pulling the joist / rafter away from the beam. You gotta put straps across the bottom ALL of those rafters where they splice at the beam. Either like a CSHP18 or an LSTA24 maybe across the bottom or a DTT2Z with a rod through the center of the beam would work to splice the tension across the beam. Yeah you basically broke the bottom part of the roof framing triangle. The joists will pull right out of those hangers in tension. They have bearing, shear, and uplift only, zero tension.
Hey I’ve been watching a lot of your videos lately and love them! Keep up the great work! What brand is that green laser you are using?
PLS 6G SYS kit
I hope it did not rain before you got the roof fixed.
Love the ending when you show manpower and manhours
That was awesome! Did you have to get that engineered or you came up with that yourself?
Not that I don’t like the regular “From the Ground Up” series, but could you do more of these instructional videos. They’re really helpful.
I don't do a whole lot of residential remodeling, but yes, I'll try to do more of this style of video!
***Major ????? Where’s the roof you have finished living space below. Put the kitchen on hold fix the roof my friend.***
That’s not our gig.. They demo’d roof WAY too soon, and their roofer isn’t coming back to dry it in.
Luckily, this place sees rain once a year.. Theyll be fine, but trust me, I agree.
It’s owner builder, we were only brought in for certain things. I can assure you we wouldn’t have left the roof off like this.
Keep up the good work.
Tommy Silva would've glued and screwed those beams together first.
Yep
Screwed? Nailed.
Nails bend. Screws break.
@@JasperLoki screws have tensile strength to hold the beams together. If your beam is bending you've already messed up and have way bigger problems.
ScienceBitch nope
@@JasperLoki this is why you're not an engineer, go home
Those group of people that are silly and soft in the head thinking wood was bending because a fish eye lens was used , should not take on home improvement projects and attempt to use dangerous power tools .
Thank you for a great Video. . Job well done.
I thought it was helpful if remodeling a pumpkin
Great job! What does it cost to have such a project done? I am considering doing exactly what you did in ranch house to open it up.
I was considering having a load bearing wall removed to open up the kitchen to the living room. There's another level underneath so that complicates things (e.g. if it wasn't done correctly the front part of the house would collapse). An engineer would need to be consulted, blueprints drawn up, permit obtained and an inspection done. I'm in California. The contractor estimated it would be $5000 to $7000. I'm leaning towards not doing it since it would delay my renovation.
I have a basement below my kitchen/living. Same situation as Rachel, I got quotes for 50-70k for a kitchen remodel with removal of a load bearing wall in California early 2022.
@@rachels7252
You can sometimes go above it like he did or good below it.
In the basement you can put support down there also instead of just above it.
In some cases .
Very important that each end of the beam are not only supported by a post, but also the posts are supported into a foundation below....
Hello
Nice! So much more straight forward in the US. In Europe we have te get a big ass metal I-beam, and a whole lot of brick removal. Takes up to two days with 3 people.
6 Hours with a laborer and myself.. I'd say we did good! I've heard things get complicated over there.. That's no fun!!
Though the term “load bearing” is correct, what load is the wall actually bearing? It’s a truss type roof system and all the load is transferred to the outside walls. Cool saw by the way.
The ceiling joist coming from each direction ended on top of that wall, it was stick frame not trusses
@TJP 81 whaa?
not a truss even if it looks like one. A truss is an engineered structure; it has to have an enginer's stamp for it to be an actual truss. This roof structure was stick framed and looks like it actually did have collar ties but they were high collar; what he should have done instead of the purlins, is install a mid span collar tie as temp shoring for the potential splaying of the rafters BEFORE he cut the joists. This kid got lucky, hopefully he'll learn
@TJP 81 depends on where the point load is but...chances are if the load is that great then the truss has been compromised ;-) But I wasnt talking about this, I was talking about the purlin 'beam' the contractor said would prevent bowing of the roof rafters. Hes kinda right but any load on one rafter w/the purlin would not transfer much load onto the next purlin for how stick framing assemblies behave. He should have attached some mid rise collars, even if it were to be in his crew's way. But this is all moot anyhow since, all he needed todo was at maximum triple up (full span) the existing 2x8s? where the wall below would be removed; saving time, money and renovation costs to the HO.
TJP 81 seriously i have no idea what you are referring to when you type “vertical braces”
Matt,
I realize that videos are limited in showing all that is done, but I do have a question: Did you glue and screw the LVL’s to each other once you raised them? Keep up the instructional component in your videos; you have excellent knack for teaching.
Hello Roy. Great question because following the proper nailing pattern on a LVL beam is crucial for proper load transfer through the beam. Nails or screws in an LVL is sufficient with the load they are carrying in this video but you should NEVER glue LVL together as this will actually keep the plys from acting as one solid beam. The glue can not bond the wood fibers together like in conventional lumber due to the water resistant coating the is applied to the LVL surface at the factory.
Thanks for info. 👍🏼👍🏼
Did this require structural engineering plans?
Mytown Nope. Just some good ole fashion carpentry. Hopefully whatever was holding up the wall before is still holding up the posts supporting the entire roof.
I'm a licensed PE. I make a lot of money every year calculating out and placing beams to do this type of work in houses. Not something you want to go into without an engineer to figure your beam size or post placement.
because your money will dry up? Folks were building houses and larger structures before engineers came along. (i.e. ark built by beginner / titanic built by engineers)
@billybrewer4039 a good contractor can do a good job BUT I've still seen plenty of stuff that people intuitively think will work but it doesn't. You're arrogant and wildly ignorant if you think you have the skill and expertise to do my job. Also: who takes liability? I also am paid to take liability for my work. Sure, most calcs I do are pretty simple but if you want to take responsibility for people's lives like I do WITHOUT my training, go for it.
@billybrewer4039 the titanic was built by engineers. Many of the great structures in this world were designed by engineers
It's because God the perfect engineer told Noah how to build the ark @@billybrewer4039
Excellent step by step tutorial. No nonsense talk and straight to the build.
Wear a mask 😷
Great Video. One question though: What do these 4x4 posts sit on? You need to make sure the loads from these posts can be safely transferred down to the foundations.
They should be sitting on 2x4 bottom plate that bolted on the ground
Id bet the house doesn't have a basement, and the length of houses with no basement have cinderblocks spanning from side to side
Come do my kitchen and do an episode. Well done!
Andy L he can do a “how to” on how to do shit work for you, yayyyy!!!
Hey thanks for this video very helpful, I have a question. The bracing going on top of the been, I didn't see it being installed. Or you left it with the ones you added for strength?
No top bracing. Each end sits on a cripple.
The only load was from the weight of the ceiling. The ceiling joist you cut we're under tension to form the triangle for the roof load. That type of rough wants to scissor the walls out .
So the walls have to be tied together . So if you would have had a roof on that house as soon as you cut the ceiling joist the exterior walls of the house would have tried to push out into the yard. The support walls wouldn't have helped much.
What solution to that would you implement?
@@xcct838 use rafter ties above the beam.
Can you please put a link for the screw gun you used for the hanger?! Thank you!!
Nice but who sized that beam? I use pairs of 7 1/4" LVL when I'm dealing with actual second floor 2x8 joists for a span like that (8'-10'). Two 14" LVL seems wildly over sized. Those glorified collar ties just carry the weight of the drywall ceiling.
Thanks for the video! It's one of the best I've seen so far on YT. Did you end up finishing this project? I'm curious to see the end result.
Reminds of South Park “open concept”
The biggest thing people forget about is that load bearing wall one supported the load over the whole wall now you wave two big load points. Always remember to beef up what's under the wall as well
I was just talking to someone about that! Subfloors crack, dip down, etc. Most definitely have to do something about the two load points you've created in the floor.
@@MattBangsWood All you need below the two load points are lally columns in the basement. Sometimes you are lucky and there could be one close so all you have to do is block to it. If the load near the fridge side has no lally all you need to add is a lally with a 28"x14" footing under the new lally. I have been doing architectural drawings for about 9 years now and see these scenarios every week!
@@alexg6917 👍🏽✏✏
New school young bucks can’t hold a candle to old school craftsman
liviz40102 “Eyeroll”
Awesome as always 👍🏻 quick question what the brand name of that hanger nailer ? Thank you for the good work
Pneutools Rap-A-Nail 150 - It's now grey.
Looks great. Might be good to mention something about potential footers needed.
4x4 post definitely need to be supported to ground with pier/footer. No mention in video.
@@billbrickhouse5975 This is why i was looking through the comments. Do the posts he put in have to loaded onto posts directly below?
That's what I was thinking, where's the part of the video showing load transfer all the way down to foundation or footer? even is there's a beam below where are the squash blocks ?
@@fab2832 it was a load bearing wall, it supposed to be a girder underneath...
Since it is load bearing there should already be a footer underneath from the original build.
Hey Matt, Is this the house you’re flipping or a customers? It weird seeing you do residential work and not framing.
Did you see the shirt?! I'm sending you one out, expect it soon. :) BANG ON!
This isn't the house we're flipping, it's a clients home. Trust me, it's weird doing residential instead of framing..
Wow, Thanks Matt!
I went back and tried to check out the shirt but it doesn’t show well on my iPhone. Can’t wait. I’ll wear it with honor.
Wow, Thanks Matt!
I went back and tried to check out the shirt but it doesn’t show well on my iPhone. Can’t wait. I’ll wear it with honor.
I took the idea you had with the "BANG ON!" across the back, played with it a bit, and the final product is PERFECT.
Every load bearing wall is different needing a different approach that is signed off by an engineer.there is no “one” way.
Wrong. All of them will need a beam to carry the load, thats basic engineering. Whether the beam is steel, or LVL and the size is what the engineer tells you.
You say wrong then you agree ? Wow....
damn.. use at least a decent, one way 3M mask...
You boys need masks on like real ones. Look at all that particulate in the air don’t want that in your lungs when your in 60s you will thank me. Also ear protection.
Definitely working different than when this video was uploaded. Appreciate the advice.
And the electric chainsaw is a great idea. Going to add one of those to my tool box. Much easier than a reciprocating saw when you are not working around nails
my dad was called to a job where the homeowner decided to do the remodeling himself my father was walking inside the house when you notice the baseboard and floors where about an inch or more apart the second thing he noticed with how big the rooms were he asked the guy who did the construction the homeowner said he did he took out most all the walls including all the wall bearing walls on both floors my father ended up condemning the guy's house because the house could collapse in on itself that's how bad it was if you don't know what you're doing stop and consult a professional
WOW!!! I have NEVER heard of anything like that, that's CRAZY! Your dad did a good thing, those people could of died!
I guess the floor is being replaced also
Lol
You need a new camera lense it looks like everything is bent
Did you have an engineer measure out the beam or did you know from experience ?
Keep in mind that the floor is also supported by joists that are in turn supported by a carrying beam that’s supported by columns set in concrete footings. What he’s doing is ok but there must be sufficient support under the new load bearing 4x4’s to bear the new load. The LVL well do it’s job fine but it must be properly supported too.
Great video, but why do you guys hate your eyes? Safety glasses are a few bucks. Your eyes are priceless!
That's not a bearing wall in the proverbial sense...I have torn out many, many bearing walls...A true bearing wall supports a live load or Masonry....A sister and a stiff back would have given you the same support...It's just ceiling sheetrock...If they were planning on using the attic you would have to up size the ceiling joist/studs and then use a bearing wall. It's overbuilt...Those two LVL's are ridiculous...Building and Remodeling contractor for nearly 40 years.
"provincial sense'???
@@TheDarkHour684 :)...I should have written :"proverbial" ..............Hey, it's a philly thing! But thanks for the heads up!
Put those masks on, your lungs are bleeding
Ida tried to go out to the side wall. Why do all that work to still have a post in the middle. It looks load bearing but the joists toward the outer wall are not if they are the same kinda joist. Couldn't you put the beam on top and hang the joists from under it so you wouldn't have to cut them all. I did that for a 20' span...
Great video !! Very easy to follow, your a good teacher, keep the videos coming brother!!
What’s the hanger nailer gun you use? This was cool to watch
Pneutools Rap-A-Nail 150. The guns now are grey.
Generally, a structural column would also need a structural footing. There doesn't seem to be much load in this beam though.
Load bearing walls either sit on beams or foundation walls so he's just transferring the load to the beam below. Where I live, no work would get done without an engineer signing off on it as it's the law so I hear where you're coming from, at the very least, an engineer would have to approve the posts and beams and point loads on the below structure.
@@MV-wb2cz yeah that post is sitting on 1 floor joist. Even if it’s a 1x12, I’m not sure that it’s designed to support that kind of point load without a lot of deflection
@@Markism07 If this load bearing wall is sitting on 1 floor joist then there should have been some work below either double or triple up the joist to support that kind of point load. Where I am from load bearing walls always sit on top of a beam or foundation wall.
@@MV-wb2cz and?
@@Markism07 i'm not sure what you're asking me...
How are those brackets that your rafter ties sit in, going to let those rafter ties stop rafter spread? - The entire reason the joists are there to begin with?
I wondered the same thing. Either instal a rafter tie above the beam or install an approved engineered strap across the bottom of the beam and existing rafter ties/ceiling joists.
Chainsaw a framers favorite tool. Didn't expect that. Very Cool. Makes fast work of it.
I love my little EGO Chainsaw!
This video is wrong from the beginning to the end.
I think you may have missed a step, which is to have someone calculate the load and size the beam for you. It seems like you just arbitrarily chose the beam dimensions and went with it. Aren't you required to have a drawing from an architect/engineer for the permit?
No if you know what your doing
Yeap
Very weird to see all the walls curved. Distracting and made me turn off the video after a few minutes.
Hey brother much love from San Diego, Ca. Appreciate the time you take to create the content on your channel. If you wouldn't mind, could you mention some tips/commentary on how to safely work with a circular saw and the power tools in general as you're using them? Thanks Matt!
This got brought up as a video idea recently, as I’m teaching Quintyn the ropes.
I’m on it!
Me: Sawsall
Pro: Chainsaw
Me: Jealous
I appreciate your experience on this, and I thought I could remove a load bearing wall before until now. Very thorough!
Do you know where I can get more information on which type of LVL to use? . When to go wider? I have one opening of 80 inches/6 feet and 8 inches. It seems like it was done with one LVL (1.75 by 9.25 inches) and a 2 by 10 put together. Will that be enough? It holding up a second level and empty attic.
No matter what , when the props come down there’s always that thought “oh did it drop a bit” haha good job bro , nothing better then opening up rooms🤙
MOST DEFINITELY! We had 1 joist come down about 3/8", which is the one I put a leg under to nail and hanger. :) Always a bit heart stopping!
Wilkinson Carpentry this made me laugh way more than it should’ve 😂😂😂
Nah couldn't disagree more, glad the "open concept" fad is dying out
the last job that I did the second floor was so much weight that I added to beams and piece of Steel sandwiched in between on both sides of the kitchen walls that we removed the one beam was holding up the middle of the house the house and the other was holding up the back wall of the house that's why we put the steel in between
Where I live (Canada) we call that a flitch beam... great solution for heavy loads.
Randy Dueck the part that was the biggest pain in the ass that one was 16 ft and the other was 14 ft and we ended up putting those together inside the house they had it be 10 of us to lift them into position the whole purpose was to make the living room kitchen dining room one big open room and this was a flip house that we ended up buying to resell and the first family that came to look ask if they purchase the house if we could put walls up because they didn't like how everything was open I wanted to pass out it was part of their religion that they like smaller rooms not open I guess you can't make everybody happy
do them a favor and drop that cealing on those cabinets
Yo, Matt put a link in the description of the awesome jams you had in this vid 😂
Great video bro. Nice work
The duck quacking song? I love that song. 😂😂😂
What was that gun you used to attach the hangers? Heck of a lot better than smashing fingers
I dont know what he uses but you can use a 'Paslode PPN35Ci Lithium Gas Positive Placement Twist Nail Gun for Fixing Joist Hangers & Brackets (1x 2.1Ah, Case) '
that's what i use
Just screw them on
Two 2"x4"'s nailed togetger are better than one 4"x4"..
Hi Matt. Screwing the 2x4 is the only way to do it. Enjoy the day. Ray L
Hey Ray! It makes it so much nicer to take down. We used this material today too, without having to pull nails! :)
Thanks, amigo! You’ve got a new subscriber!
@mattbangswood What is supporting the 4x4 at the ground and what is connecting the LVL to it at the top? Thanks
Not being in construction, your video is very impressive. I have a load bearing wall in my master bath. want to remodel so now I have a beginners understanding of how to! Thanks!!
2 x 14" 1 3/4 LVL what sort of roof loading per sqm are you working on, as this seems overkill for that sized opening and roof type.
My guess is this wasn't completed with a stamped plan, permits or inspections.
Rob Estoll
It’s a bit hard to tell the insurance company and inspectors that this is how we bought it when there’s a video of the remodel.
Just hope those 4x4s are supported from beneath!
Where you from I'll hire you to do this same thing in my hous3
I’m in California Los Angeles to be exact I do plenty of these remodels
AWESOME to see YOUNG guys interested in working with their hands these days! Seems like most younger guys are interested in sitting at a computer terminal instead of BUILDING/MAKING something. Keep up the Banging Matt!!!
There will always be blue collar men that like wrenching or building things that aren't afraid to get dirty. The problem is modern liberals have made it (or coined the term) "toxic masculinity" to be a man and act like a man and they own all the media from TV, to tech to most major publication companies and even our schools and colleges so all we hear about is the attempt to indoctrination with praising the soy drinking in touch with their feminist side beta males getting all the attention these days, not real men that know right from wrong and aren't afraid of hard work.
We all need to be vocal too and make it clear that the blue collar men are what make society work and they are the real hero's in the western world or this cuck trend will only get worse...
@@AtomicReverend Could you provide some example of soy drink and being in touch with feminist side that modern liberals commonly voice out?
I guess you could say I'm a modern liberal in CA, but I wrench on my own car and get my hands dirty when possible. I work a tech job and occasionally style my hair that is commonly stereotyped as well. I appreciate the effort blue collar workers do. Yet despite all this, I don't really understand what makes us a problem? I don't view blue collar men any less than white collar men. In big cities where cost of living is higher, it just makes sense financially to choose a white collar job over a blue collar job in the long run. Assuming there is always consistent self-growth, the white collar salary would continue to go up the more you age vs blue collar job where opportunities dwindle due to age and loss in strength. As a "modern liberal", I choose and voice for services to help all (including those that chose blue collar jobs and are outside of their prime) so people in general can live a relatively comfortable life
Amen brother way to many lazy millennials.
@@megaxzero88 man, do any of you ever do research before you comment... I guess I am stereo typing but that is a different subject.
Let's use Starbucks as they are as far as I know the biggest coffee house on the planet and definitely stereotyped as the liberal met up place.
How about the caffe latté?
Or the caffe mocha?
How about Caramel Macchiatos?
Or the Chestnut Praline Latte?
Do I need to go on?
It is a fact that soy produces synthetic estrogen and if consumed in large amounts it can actually affect a male's testosterone levels.
As for White Collar jobs paying more than blue collar jobs that is a normal myth that we have all heard for 30 or 40 years that doesn't stand up under scrutiny, look up the pay a journeyman electrician makes or a journeyman ironworker or a Automotive assembly plant worker, look lookup an ase-certified master technician that's the mechanic that works on your car at a dealership or most professional shops, how about a journeyman (or certified) plumber or a journeyman (or certified) contractor... All of these jobs have crazy high pays once you are seasoned with a great skill set. Agian you start off at the bottom just like you do with any job or career and you work your way up. As an example an entry-level framer in Southern California makes about $20 an hour which isn't bad pay for a starting wage that requires no schooling, if he sticks with the job and becomes a master Carpenter over about 5 to 10 years time he will make up words of 45 to 55 bucks an hour... Great pay and he is the one you have to thank when you can close your door at night.
I am not talking bad on White Collar jobs, but for literally 40 years every youth has been told that they have to go to college to get a good job they end up in 50 to $100,000 worth of debt right out the gate for a job market that is generally flooded with accountants and liberal arts people (and the other jobs that 40+ years ago paid well), even cyber-security is starting to get flooded because of the amount of college graduates entering the emerging field... I am not saying the pay isn't good in any of those jobs because I'm sure there are plenty of examples of it paying well but my point still remains the blue collar worker is the unsung hero of society he is the one that gives you a roof he is the one that makes your bodily waste go away, he is the one that makes your car run, he or she is the one that sells you your food, that grows your food, that trucks your food and almost all of those jobs actually require more then labor but literally the years of hands-on experience... an automotive mechanic takes two years just to become an entry-level to become an ase-certified master technician generally it is a five to eight year process. All your journeyman Union jobs take about 5 years of going to school every other weekend...
Also blue collar men generally get plenty of exercise and don't need a gym membership and even as we age those who are physically active are generally healthier but there is a lot of variables to that statement but you think once party will actually give out is a bunch of crap also. I have been in the construction field for going on 20 years and I have a good diet and a killer physique for my age group and I would never step foot into a gym but again I degress.
@@AtomicReverend First off, I'm going to keep this brief because there is no point in discussing this any further. Anything I say that doesn't fall in line with your mindset is immediately taken as offense to you.
1) Not sure why you need to say I haven't done any research? I worked on cars and received two ASE certificates before admitting this is not something long term for me. I know there is money in blue collar labor
2) All those drinks you listed are milk based. Soy is just an alternative and personally, most soy drinkers I know are female.
3) I'm glad you have a great physique, but that's not what I see here in LA with most blue collar jobs. No matter what physical labor takes a toll on the back, knee, joints.
** HELP ** What the hell is that Automatic feed - Palm Nailer type Hanger Gun...?
PneuTools Rap-A-Nail 150 hardware gun.
In my opinion it’s one of the best.
I was curious too. Nifty tool.
Seems like the twin 1 3/4 x 14 are a little over kill.
They're a bit big, but personally with the way we build out here, it's not uncommon. We do (2) 1-3/4"x14" for window headers from time to time.
MattBangsWood good on ya. You do good quality work. It’s a pleasure to watch
I'm doing this next week but with steel, what did the original builder do to span the entry way?
To the left of the load bearing wall, it was spanned with a 2x8", strapped joist to joist. Not sure if that's the entryway you're referencing?
Why do we see skylight through the roof?I'm guessing you brace the walls, then close the roof? I'M LOST HERE.Journeyman Carpenter.
Was thinking the same thing? Why can we see sunlight
Thats what I was wondering as well.
I think the house is being completely remodeling and the new roof also.
Try doing it with on a load bearing wall with an electrical sub panel smack dab in the middle! I just renovated my condo and had the joy of that experience.
I'll pass! LOL.. That'll rack the price up, that's for sure!
Matt, is it possible to set the double LVL beam above the ceiling joist and then strap the ceiling joist to the LVL and not cutting the joist for the LVL?
It could be possible? I've never seen it done. You'd need your posts to sit up extra high to try that though. I'd say either way would be about the same in labor.
The LVL is typically designed with lateral support taken into consideration. In this condition, you can top load or side load LVL.
I have done a fair number these beam installs and I had a structural engineer suggest I set the LVL beam slightly higher than the ceiling joist and then strap the joist to the sides of the LVL with Simpson strapping and try to raise the ceiling joist a small amount so that when the wall was removed it would set the ceiling level. Thanks for your reply’s!
call an engineer first. Being one myself, I have seen some incredibly stupid attempts and designing large beams.