How to Determine if a Wall Is Bearing or Non-Bearing
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ธ.ค. 2016
- Identifying how to determine if a wall is bearing or non-bearing, and what to look for before removing it.
For more helpful video's or information about our company, please visit our website at www.idecharlotte.com
With Ryan's th-cam.com/users/postUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE plan I was like one taken by the hand and led step by step from start to finish. Thank you very much Ryan!
Looking forward to living in my dream house! Thank you, Ryan's, for not only the initial support with your special but ongoing support through my build! th-cam.com/users/postUgkxe81Bz076USDt6sYU1rDcNa2LwCIKADgB Experience has been amazing so far! Made the process easy.
Thanks for the TIP Papineau! Best surprise of the day was seeing your face doing this tutorial!
Really nice man, there are a lot of videos but not of them even go into the attic or really describe it well.
Great video with a lots of information. Thank you
Great video and thanks.
Great explanation, well done!
Very good videos, my husband and me liked! Thanks!
Awesome man, I want to take out a door frame in the middle of my hallway and now I know what to look for to make sure it's safe.
This helped me a lot! cheers guys 👍
Yeah this was pretty good. Pretty much exactly how I would assess it so hearing it from you was a real confidence booster. Well articulated too. Thanks!
Thanks so much, very informative!!
Great rundown.
Wow this video is Helpful. I enjoyed it. I have a Pillar between two garage doors that i want to remove to have one 17x7 door. The joist run Parallel.
Great video - this will definitely help me figure out whether some of my reno plans are as feasible as i think they are
This was fantastic for a rookie like me!
Great Video. And examples.
Good speaker, clear and concise content. TY!
This is the best "how to determine load bearing walls" video that I've found on TH-cam. The explanations are often the same information, but the staging of the video, delivery of message, in coordination with each other is exactly what I needed. Great job!
Thank you so much for the kind words. Best of luck!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it and thank you for the positive feedback
Here's another subscriber for you. You are so close to the 1000 mark. I am sub number 978. I hope to make it to 1000 some day too. CHEERS!!!
Llkkkkk
Excellent video!!
Awesome video.
This was very helpful! Thank you!
*Only 18* 👇👇👇
450462.loveisreal.ru
This video is so awesome. I tried to
hire this company. Sadly they only
accept jobs close to Charlotte.
The key is to go into attic. Many contractors say it’s not by looking from the living room. Don’t trust them. Good job.
thank you. very helpful
Awesome video man!!
Thank you Sr !!!!
Great information 👍
very helpful thank you.
i'm no expert but this is the way i would describe it! and ya made it easy to understand! thanks!
thanks for sharing, this is great
One of the better videos on this topic. Good idea to show examples of both - well done.
Tourniquet63 7
Thanks for sharing.
Great video
Very helpful thanks
Is there a follow up video of how to temporarily support that long wall in order to install the support beam?
Great info just subscribed
Thank you for this video!
To put it more simply...
All walls that are Perpendicular to the rafters/trusses are load bearing, whether they were designed to be or not.
After 5yrs or more of the structure settling, there is now enough weight on those walls for the ceiling to drop noticeably if removed.
Sometimes it's only enough to crack the ceiling sheetrock, but I have seen it drop enough to break ceiling joists. YMMV.
If only moving the wall laterally a few feet (expanding one room), you're usually ok. If removing the wall entirely, a header is needed.
You are wrong with your assumption. Just because walls run Perpendicular to the rafters and trusses doesn't mean they are automatically designated load bearing wall. I have work on many homes. All you have to do is look in your attic. Or if you have a garage that is unfinished ceiling you look and see if it is manufactured trusses. Matter of fact in my home the only load bearing walls are exterior walls. It also has manufactured trusses. There are no trusses sistered together. This video is good for people wanting to know.
I said they BECOME load bearing due to settling, regardless of design. I've had numerous ceilings drop after wall removal, even though the trusses were engineered to support the total span. It's common enough to support my original statement.
Excellent video. But this video does prove that I need to bring in an expert.
Very informative,.....you made the Tutorial very simple and easy to follow. In fact it was much simpler than what this carpenter told me, he went into a long drawn detailed explanation where I was totally confused.
Thank you
good job--thanks
Awsome video if you keep it up I think your channel will grow quickly and i watch alot of youtube
Would you please give me a bit of advice on my 1950s house? The west side of my Hip roof is sagging, like those old rafters are warped. Can i go in the attic and simply erect support beams between the rafters and the ceiling joists, in a inexpensive attempt to just prevent it from sagging any further? thank you
well explained
Sweet thanks
If there's no bracing or splicing onto the wall but it is running perpendicular to the ceiling joists, is that load bearing?
Thanks. That’s a load off my mind.
Nice. 😏😏😏
Awesome, thanks. Now I can at least be armed with knowledge when hiring contractors to take a wall out for me.
So what was the weight you calculated for the joists and the rafter? Can you do a video on live and dead weight?
Great helpful video 👍🏽
Kickass!
Great video for the novice. I read some of the comments you received and had to chuckle about. Everything about the attic being dirty, the insulation is bad, the AC is trash. Of course it is, It's a 50 or 60 year old house. It can be fixed, cleaned, and re-insulated to R-38 (or whatever). You were identifying bearing walls and gave some good information.
Thank you! Everyone is entitled to their opinions. : ) I'm just trying to offer some advice before getting sludge hammer happy!
I have a wall running along a joist and in attic there are 2x4s running from the roof rafters to this same floor joist where roof has different lines - like side of house put up against the rest with same pitch but at a different level. load bearing? Would bracing against other joist take load if so?
Would there ever be (ceiling) drywall between a top plate and a ceiling joist? I have a truss roof. Wall is running perpendicular to the ceiling joist (middle of house). Seems like it is non load bearing?
If you find this video helpful, please comment and visit our website at www.idecharlotte.com ! I’m happy to answer any questions that you many have.
Where's the next video showing you install the beam? The home I just bought is identical to that layout.....but it's 20', not 18. Wanted to know what size beam you ended up installing? I wanna use LVL.
An LVL beam was used for this project, and they make some pretty deep LVL's (up to 24" deep), so i'm sure you can get something to work.
Well I have the same scenario, it's an old house and the structures on the ceiling joist are about the same. The problem with it that you don't show how to resolve it. If you have a video like that on this house. Send me the link. It would be very helpful
I'm interested in what the negative replies would be, something like: you cheated-you went in to the attic...
or: it doesn't matter if you remove one wall because the other will do the work of both. Good Video!
Lol...yep, there's always going to be those people...hopefully I didn't give them anything to chew on!
Thanks for the tip, I am trying to install an in wall speaker, The problem i ran into was exactly where the cut out is going to be is a pipe to the left "steam heating pipe. Then a beam to right of it, So the only direction i can go is to cute the beam side. I need to cut about 1 1/2 inches into the beam which is basically the beam side. it's only one beam, I am pretty sure its a load bearing wall. Will cutting that beam by 2 inches be a bad idea? I am not looking to take down a whole wall, just one beam.
Another route i can go is to move the speaker over another 20 inches "Kinda Far off" but again i am running into tow beams and at the 20 inch mark, I would have to cute about 3/4 into the beam and 17 inches long way "Top to Bottom. Would cutting 3/4 of an inch off the beam be a bad idea or would i have to support it before i make the 3/4 inch cut, then support it afterwards with two 2x4 's Horizontally then a king stud and a stud?
My safe answer is yes. It really depends how much weight the beam is carrying, the size of the beam, and exact location you want to cut it. This would require a site visit to answer accurately.
Here's my problem, the space above has a half the span size set of stairs from side to side upstairs and it's open.
It's just sheeted in, I have the chimney tore down to the floor level. I want to open it up to the ceiling on the second floor or top of the stairs. How do I determine if I can do this or not?!?!
Can you remove 2 of the 2 x 4 and use a header to support the weight
About how much does it cost to have one of these guys come out to take a look, in general?
I had a quote for 500 for the visit that would be applied toward the cost of engineering the beam if I went with them. Otherwise i was out $500.
what about a wall that goes the same way as the 2 load bearing walls that are under ceiling joists but no braces down to it nor ceiling joists are spliced over it?
What are the exact exterior dimensions of the 8'x6' shed? I'm seeing a lot of conflicting information, and need exact for a deck
how can you tell if it is Bearing or non-Bearing if you have a 2nd floor above the rooms you want to open up
The other giveaway that these are load bearing is that both walls have let-in braces, those are the ones that run diagnoly across the walls. Used mostly for sheer support
im in a condo and cant see on the first floor. what type of expert should i be contacting to find out?
Do you have any videos about putting in a flush/hidden beam in a ceiling space to replace a load bearing wall?
Check my reply to Ranulfo above.
Its best to get a structural engineer size them first though.
I watched the other vid where you show how a flush beam was weakened by cutting it to fit to the roof pitch. Luckily my beam is perpendicular to the joists and goes to the end of the house where the gable end finishes. That is; it is a flush end. But the other wall which does sit under a ceiling joist and on top of a double floor joist runs parallel to these members. At the centre of the house and top roof line the ceiling joists do rest on the centre hall bearing wall, so am unsure at this stage if the parallel wall bears the weight of the ceiling joists. Question is.. how would you do a beam over where the bearing wall is parallel to the ceiling joists? Thanks
If all of the joists have the same span and bear on the same center bearing wall, and there is no special roof bracing down to the ceiling joist/wall in question, then it is safe to assume that the wall directly below the ceiling joist is non-bearing. In this video, the ceiling joist spaced at 16" on center did not fall over the parallel wall, so a flat plate was added to fasten the sheetrock. In your case, it sounds like the joists were spaced in such a way that one ceiling joist ended up being located directly over the wall. I think we are on the same page, and I hope this helps?
Very helpful video. Best on the subject that I've seen so far.
how do you break and open the walls and support the load bearing walls?
wish you could say the sizes of the beams at the end if for exemple 3 meter opening. is it about 2" x 8"
is this about near: 1m opening, 2" x 4". 2m opening 2" x 6". 3m opening 2" x 8". 4m opening 2 times 2" x 6". 5m opening 2times 2" x 8" ?
My condo doesn’t have an attic. How to find out in my case?
What are the best and worst options?
Ohoh, baby bear videos brought me here to this bearing or non-bearing videos
Great recommendation by YT
Bear or not to bear?
Excellent video, well explained and illustrated, helped me a lot ... thanks
If you lose 7 to 8 inches and instal another wall intal long beams 2x4 with iron lintel for support lose ceiling height used reset light lights ,just bring in the furniture
He's the structural engineer Gotham deserves!
So what’s the solution ? Does the roof need reconfigured? Or just a. Support beam added?
What about if there were no braces and if those joists weren’t married? Would it still be load bearing or no?
great video sir. very helpful thanks for the great visual examples.
Yes, the visuals. Were great. ;)
The roof of the home in this video uses rafters and joists and doesn't mention that more modern homes generally use roof trusses.
Robert Rinehuls if there are roof/joist combined to make trusses it is still enough,they will still be attached to or sitting on a wall.inside or outside load bearing means just that. Old school carpenter
I wouldn't say more modern because it depends on the shape of the house and the builder. Most custom builders still use stick framed (rafters and ceiling joists) because it allows for more attic storage..it's just more labor intensive. A typical track builder that is building simpler "square shaped" houses will use trusses to speed up production time and reduce costs. The only downside of using trusses I'm my opinion is limited attic storage. If you do have roof trusses, there's a good chance that they are not bearing on your interior walls, but make sure you consult a structural engineer first.
I'm a general contractor and I stick frame everything. Depending on the design of the home, trusses can support the roof entirely from the exterior walls making all the walls in the home non load bearing. it really just depends on the design.
Marcel Papineau Good advice, because as you guys know there are many house designs that use three point trusses, which are a little trickier to determine.
I was able to remodel my master bedroom from 12'10" x 12'0" to 20'2" x 12'10" in part that the roof was constructed using free span trusses. This means the front and rear walls of the house (block) supports the trusses without need of any load bearing walls. In theory this means all interior walls could be removed without the roof failing. I took out two 5' x 3' walk-in closets and a linen closet to expand the bedroom's length. I built a 4' x 12'10" walk-in closet to replace the two removed. The new walk-in closet has close to 23 feet of rod space because I put in an adjustable rod system allowing two rods the length of the 12'10" wall. I also built two additional closets to replace a coat closet and the linen that were removed. While the total square feet was not increased I made the Master Bedroom almost twice it's original size. I also gutted the storage/laundry room connecting it to the house. I had concrete poured to level the old breezeway slab to the finished floor for both the kitchen and laundry rooms. The back door was there, so I removed it once the new room was completed. The space now measures 18'10" x 9'7". It now serves as a laundry, small storage and workshop. I also kept this room in mind when I had the Heater and Air Conditioner replaced. The AC man recommended I go from a three ton unit to a three and one half ton to accommodate the extra square footage being added. In all the remodel went without any problems and no plumbing had to be changed. Electrical was easy to move and did not create any additional loads on the service panel. I constructed both new walls of the laundry room to be load bearing as the trusses cross them or stop on one section. This meant the use of 2 x 8 lumber with a double header of 2 x 8 to support the trusses over them. I also used this opportunity to build new door frames for the 3 exterior doors to solid wood, make the 3 steel doors stronger and put on 3 high quality security doors. My windows had already been secured with the roll down shutters typical in the hurricane areas. This makes my home completely secure from unwanted entry.
Does anyone know what that truss design is called? I have a 1946 house that has a similar design but it also has some little 1x4s coming off the braces about 1/2 way down and going back (the opposite direction the brace is going, but also at an angle) and also ties in somewhere. I have not been motivated enough to dig through the blown in cellulose to see where it ties in.
Just curious what my truss design is called.
do a google image search of "roof truss design types" - there are a lot of graphics that will show you basic web configurations
That is not a truss roof, it's a stick framed roof. That is why there is interior load bearing walls
I agree with Joe, given the age of the house and the description you have given, it sounds like you have a stick built roof, therefore the roof and ceiling members are likely relying on interior walls.
You are an engineer, correct? If so...then that's all I need. "Honey, get the sawzall..."
Su.rprised its load bearing, as thought it would be brick in order to be supporting, not wood plasterboard wall
Lol. Very few houses in North America use brick in a structural way, it's more of an aesthetic thing nowadays.
what if i dont have a attic lol? i have a single wide. trying ti figure out if my wall can be knocked down but dont much about the bearing stufd
Do you offer repair service?
Usually walls that run down the center of your house like that are load bearing
4:36 I'm assuming that in the case of a two story building, there would be no load bearing on the first floor whatsoever, since there is no roof above it being supported.
@Moon Pie Ok.
@@KyrstOak ok? How about saying thanks as well.
@@irecruitfish7410 Ok.
@@KyrstOak you probably have people spit in your food because you don't sound polite
@@irecruitfish7410 It's like you're looking into my very window. Shall I look into yours?
I need to just cut one 2 x 4 so I can make an opening for a door. Would that be a problem if it was in fact, load bearing?
You'll need to installed a header over the door to create the opening in a load bearing condition. Without analyzing your exact situation, I couldn't tell you for sure, but i'm pretty certain installing a (2)2x10 header for a standard size 3-ft wide door would be enough. Support each side of the new header over a 2x4 jack stud, which is the stud supporting directly under the header.
You can, but you'll need to support the new opening with a header. The size of the header will depend on the loading over the doorway, but a (2)2x10 header is a safe bet.
Why did they add blocking in the framing like that?
So is there a solution for someone that wants to remove those walls even tho they are load bearing?
Aaron Bush yes. You’ll have to design beams to stretch over the span of the load barring wall area
slap a 2x4 over it and you're good to go!
You can, you just need to consult an engineer to find out what size beams are needed.
Composite load bearing beam.
There is an easier way to find out. Remove the wall. If your house falls down, it was load bearing.
Art C u sir are a true professional..
I won't be hiring you.
LOL When redoing one of our houses my husband hit a 2x4 and the rof almost caved in .so yes this is important!!
you're hired
Art C So crazy hahaha
Wow! Just what I was looking for and you answered my questions so well! Other videos are not as easy and well demonstrated as yours, I truly appreciate your work. It's been a while since you posted this video but I can honestly say yours is one of the best! Thanks Again! 👍👏👏🤗
My house was built in the '80's. I have trusses in the attic spaced 24" apart. The span of the trusses is about 26'. I have an attached garage. In the attached garage there are no interior walls. In the attic the bottom chord is one piece of lumber. Also between the living room and kitchen there is a span of 8' without a header. The exterior walls are 2 x 4's . The house is a ranch. Due to the the fact that the garage and interior opening are not supported, do you think it is possible that the trusses are supported by the exterior walls
Great detailed description. Yes, those are all great signs that you have roof trusses that are designed to span from exterior wall to exterior wall with no interior load bearing walls. Additional checks would be
1. Do all of the roof trusses have the same configuration including the ones over the garage?
2. Locate an interior wall close to the center of the house from the attic (usually hallway walls)...Is there a vertical member built within the truss that bears directly over the wall?
3. Is there a vaulted ceiling that may change the configuration of the roof truss?
4. Are all the metal gang plates that connect the truss members together all tightly connected on both sides of the trusses?
Thank you
I don’t see nothing that holds down roof in the attic but I am still scared to tear down my wall