The longer cranking time is enforced by the need to synchronize the module with the engine. The BTO module uses the CYP sensor signal for synchronization, which occurs every four ignitions, so in the worst case we have to wait three ignitions for synchronization. In the factory solution, the ignition unit is mechanically synchronized with the engine.
@@bo2o Reading BTO's comment, i understand the modules needs a signal to synchronize that happen every two crank turns. That's how it is. I wish is existed a different sensor setup to fully bypass the distributor.
Based off what BTO said in their comments, I think you can actually do a bypass quick splice on the ecu for the ckp and cyp. I did it to mine. And now have a closed loop. It’s an old trick, but that might help skip the ecu needing to calibrate itself with your new coil setup. Might even help crank the car up faster
I purchased two kits. I've installed one today. For the GND wire I earthed it inside the cap to one of the screws directly opposite where you put it, instead of to the outer screw. Same body so should OK but tidier. For the pink wire I cut a small channel on the OEM rubber grommet, ran it through then reinstalled the oring over the top for a perfect seal.
Rotors seize to the shaft, I tap the top with a flat punch to break it first. Pretty common. I always open the dizzy when I get a new honda, most need a new rotor. Good time to check and replace your distributor oring, a common leak spot.
That's a excellent trick. I'll try that the next time I have to take the rotor out. I totally didn't think of tapping it first, but makes so much sense. Oh yeah the o-ring is new so I didn't need to replace it. Practically all the pieces in my dizzy were replaced not that long ago. I was surprised the rotor got seized already.
@@B52PSI no issues with hood clearance. Its not much higher than a regular spark plug wire. I transfered these to my b18 now and still no clearance issus, but with the b18, its very tight with my coilpack plate bolted on. Needed to use counter sunk screws to fasten the plate on. Anything higher than the plate rubbed the hood. With the d series, its fine. Zero issues.
@@WilliamPalmer-o4x I'm curious if you're having hood clearance issues because of the coil packs you're using. You should be using D17 coils. D17 fit perfect and no clearance issues. I believe the k series coil packs sit a lot higher.
Thank you!! I have a question, Does this work with a D16z6 vtec 1995 engine? Because I really want to do this upgrade, algo, do I need a Hondata? Or just my stock p28 ECU that comes with my Civic 1995 EX coupe please let me know! Thank you for this video, is gold!
Yes, it should work for D16z6 all the obd1 and obd2 distributors have the same internals. It will work with any of those ECU's. If you have any further questions, you should reach out to the manufacturer mentioned in the video. They'll know their product better than me. I'm running this kit on my B18 now and never had any issues aside from it starting not as quick.
@@bentracy3349 Either is fine. Always best to check your timing after you mess with your distributor. Make sure you keep one of your spark plug wires. You'll need it to set your timing.
hey bro i got a honda capa i swap to d16y7 i had in a d15b but i am using the d15b wire harness on the d16y7 i want to covert it to obd1 but i dont know how to do the wiring for it i need some help
Hope this helps . I had a b16 that would start and runn for about 60 seconds then would die . So I pulled the cap off the dizzy and the pick ups in side all the plastic covering the metal Were cracked and split . Just trying to say the issue with it taking a little bit to start could have some to do with the plastic that Broke on your magnetic pic up .
There wasn't actually plastic that broke in the magnetic pick up. It's weird cause it's only half covered in plastic. Not sure if my dizzy is aftermarket or not cause I've seen that piece in both styles, covered in plastic and only half covered. So I actually chipped off pieces of the magnet. So I guess maybe the damage caused it to fire up slower. Not really sure. I guess as long as it fires up and runs, I'll just let it be. Another thing I did notice before doing the COP conversion was when I tested my new engine harness. The car seemed to fire up even better with the new engine harness. Might just be a coincidence.
@@Lorenzo-t8d yes, timing should be done anytime you mess with the distributor. I checked timing and it was spot on. The slow starting is intentional by the manufacturer. Read their response in the comments. I have since moved the system over to my b series and same kind of cranking. Maybe it cranks a bit faster now cause I upgraded my starter wire.
Yep, it'll work for b20. You'll have to go on the manufacturers website to read the specs. But it works for all the b, d, f, h motors. The dizzy cap can be bought on Amazon, eBay, aliexpress, etc. And the coil packs is yec 602a. Just coils for a 2001 civic. If you're gonna run them for your b20, I'd go with k20 coil packs cause you can use the mounting plate that has provisions for the holes on the k20 coils. The d17 coils need the ear choped off and you'll need some way to hold them down. They do pop out if you don't fasten the coil packs down.
@@BudgetGears thanks! BTO said I should use D16 coils for my application but you say these would pop out. I assume the valve cover for the B18 is the same as the B20?
@@slorice8723 The valve cover is the same for the B18 and B20. I'd say all coils will pop out if you don't fasten they down somehow. With the D17 coils, you'll grind off the ear to fit. There won't be a way to screw the coil down. You can make or buy a plate that goes over all the coils, which will hold them down. The other option is use K20 coils, which sit a bit higher, but they make a mounting plate that the coils screw into. So the plate sits on top of the valve cover and the coils screw in. Cleaner in my opinion. You just have to make sure you keep the coils fastened down.
Its the same. I'm kind of used to it now. I just crank it longer. Sucks that I can't just push the button on my push start to fire it up. I now have to hold it so it cranks till it fires up.
How can you do a video as a "cheapest way to do conversion kit " and not show where did you buy the parts? or the link? what are you tryin to show? just intallation?
If you mean a modified ecu with a tuned map, then no. It'll work on a virgin ecu or a modified ecu. But, it's best to check out the specs yourself and ask the company questions if you're unsure.
Yes, it was already set before the conversion. I marked my distributor and put it back to exactly the way it was. If you need to set your timing, the procedure is the same as stock, but you'll need to bridge the coil pack using a old spark plug wire to put a timing light to. Then twist the distributor and you're done.
There's a lot of different pros and cons, but the main pros are that it provides more reliability by lasting longer than a normal distributor, providing consistent spark, ability to still run since it's running 4 coils vs a distributor running 1, simplier to fix if a coil dies as you can easily replace just the coil pack compared to the entire distributor, costs of conversion is similar to that of a better quality new distributor, cheaper than replacing with an OEM distributor if you can even still find one, allows for better spark tuning, etc. Some cons is that it still utilizes sensors inside the distributor, not really necessary unless your distributor is failing, cost of conversion, but if you have to replace distributor anyways, this is about the same price, still require a old spark plug wire to time the ignition as it still uses sensors inside distributor, engine may take more cranks to start because of sychronization, etc.
Doubt it. The kit works fine. Just takes longer to crank now. Many people have used this kit for years and haven't reported any issues. I think if I didn't have push button start, I'd probably not notice the cranking that much. It does fire up the crank after the initial start up sequence. Sometimes it still fires up within the start up sequence, but when it doesn't it's annoying because I'd have to reinitiate the start up sequence again. Just easier to hold the button.
I love that the rotor button screw (which is normally the bitch) came right off while the rotor button (normally takes zero pressure to remove) was the major pain in the ass. Side bar is the cop board tuneable?
lol. Yeah I know right! I've never had that much trouble with the rotor in other distributors. Weird thing is the rotor I removed was new and hasn't even seen 6000 kms yet. I'm not sure if the board is tuneable or not. You can tune the ignition timing like you would with normal distributor timing, but I'm not familiar with any other tuning to it.
@@matthewglaze5398 That's awesome! That thing must be quick. I think all the COP kits probably work the same. I see most of the other ones are based on the hondarulez board that needs to be soldered into the ecu board. I wasn't a fan of modifying the ecu and then running another set of wiring from the ecu to the engine bay. This option allowed everything to be done at the distributor, which was something I liked. Also, being the most affordable kit made it a excellent option. 😁Only thing is I didn't really need to convert since I'm stock and I noticed no difference except my car takes longer to fire up now. lol.
@@BudgetGears the car is fast when it is working right. Lol hondas right? I haven't had it on a dyno yet just been street tuning it my self. But currently I'm having an issue where the afr gauge bugs out and starts reading full lean under heavy acceleration even though the car is still running fine. It's hurting the tuning process to say the least. And the affordable price of this cop option definitely makes it worth the shot. Snake tuning makes one similar to this. The most expensive stand alone one i have seen is called a digidizzy but at $700 dollars its a little steep.
I've had no issues since the installation. Works the same as before the mod. It's a sweet mod, but no real difference aside from my car taking a bit more cranks to fire up. I only drive it in the summer so I probably only put around 800 kms on it or maybe less. I'd say the mod is very cool looking, but I haven't noticed any change in performance or reliability. I guess performance is not something very obvious when the motor is stock. I'm sure it'll probably last a long time though so fingers crossed on reliability.
That’s good to know. I keep blowing thru aftermarket dizzys and keep getting engine codes. I did purchase your main relay adaptor kit, and I’m hoping this mod makes the car more reliable. I’ve had 2 breakdowns in the last month both related to the electrical system.
@@opticalsound7883 That totally sucks. The aftermarket dizzys seem to really be a hit or miss and the OEM ones are super expensive or discontinued. This mod would make the ignition more reliable, but it'll still rely on sensors in the dizzy. So hopefully you're not having any issues with those sensors. Thanks for purchasing my main relay. Really appreciate the support!
@@opticalsound7883for the dizzys, I recommend you change the ignition coil and igniter to a reliable brand like ngk. Ive gotten 50,000 miles on mine before replacing those items again and theyre not expensive vs the whole dizzy
I didn't really use it that much because my car is only driven in the summer. I only got maybe a couple months of driving on it. It drives fine and works fine. Only thing is as mentioned in the video is that it takes longer to start. I'd say it's a nice upgrade if your distributor is failing or if you need it for a high horsepower build. If you're stock like me or close to stock, don't waste your money. You'll notice no difference between your good distributor and this upgrade. It'll only provide a different look. It's hard to tell with reliability because that needs to be tested over many years. Most OEM distributors will last a lifetime with a bit of maintenance.
Works fine. Works the same as when I made this video. I don't daily my car so the last time I drove it was in October. I did fire up the car a couple time during storage and still works the same as when I made this video.
Depends what you're doing with the motor. If keeping stock, I'd go with a z6 if you can find one in good shape. The z6 is overall a stronger and better motor and you can run a stock p28 ecu without requiring tuning. If you're building the motor for more power etc. then it doesn't matter. Overall, the z6 was a better quality made motor compared to the y8.
@@jernyz I'm assuming your distributor is the 99-00 one using the OBD2B plug. Those didn't come with a tach wire. You can easily open up the distributor and use a spade crimp and some wire and add it yourself. There's a spot for it in your distributor.
This is something you should ask the manufacturer. I'm not the manufacturer or affiliated with them. You can contact the manufacturer mentioned in the video. Plus, the Honda COP conversions are not vehicle specific. As long as you have one of the engines listed in the title and OBD1/2, then it'll work.
I'm not familiar with your engine since it's not something we have in North America. It looks like your motor is a carbureted engine, which is very different from our fuel injected engines. I'd recommend contacting BTO and asking them. I'd like to say no, it's not compatible, but I don't know for sure. This kit only works for engines with obd1 and obd2 distributors. And as mentioned in the video this kit is made by BTO so you can buy it from them.
I just installed that same kit, and I’m having tach issues. Like it work for a few mins up to 3000 then is stops and doesn’t read at all. Any ideas what it could be?
Ciao sono un ragazzo italiano e vorrei montare sulla mia Honda crv lo stesso kit di conversione che hai utilizzato per la tua macchina, ovviamente adatto a motori b serie. Se non è un problema per te,mi potresti dare un link per acquistare questo prodotto?? Grazie in anticipo
Took about 3 to 4 weeks. It was sent with tracking. I do remember that the package was stuck for a while with no tracking updates, but that's more the postal service.
I'm sorry, I dont understand what your question is. Are you asking me whats wrong with my ignition timing or what is it supposed to be? There's nothing wrong with my timing so I'm confused what you're asking.
Lol. For me there wasn't really any except it looks cool. I'd imagine those that have constantly failing aftermarket distributors might benefit from it. I dont doubt its a better spark and all, but really unnecessary for a stock motor. Haha. But brownie points for looking cool though. 😂
I want some parts of this engine......can you send them. I am from lahore Pakistan .And the one you did the modification also that kit. Plz send WhatsApp number.
The longer cranking time is enforced by the need to synchronize the module with the engine.
The BTO module uses the CYP sensor signal for synchronization, which occurs every four ignitions, so in the worst case we have to wait three ignitions for synchronization.
In the factory solution, the ignition unit is mechanically synchronized with the engine.
so the longer harder to start will always be a thing for this kit? i also got this kit and put it on my 98 civic. does the same thing hard to start.
@@bo2o Reading BTO's comment, i understand the modules needs a signal to synchronize that happen every two crank turns. That's how it is. I wish is existed a different sensor setup to fully bypass the distributor.
Based off what BTO said in their comments, I think you can actually do a bypass quick splice on the ecu for the ckp and cyp. I did it to mine. And now have a closed loop. It’s an old trick, but that might help skip the ecu needing to calibrate itself with your new coil setup. Might even help crank the car up faster
How do you bypass that?
@@jadenkeosavanh1774 google ckf bypass trick
Yea can you explain how you did that
@@sbus6766 it is very easy.. google CKF BYPASS TRICK.
that'll be 600 bucks@@sbus6766
I purchased two kits. I've installed one today. For the GND wire I earthed it inside the cap to one of the screws directly opposite where you put it, instead of to the outer screw. Same body so should OK but tidier. For the pink wire I cut a small channel on the OEM rubber grommet, ran it through then reinstalled the oring over the top for a perfect seal.
Where can I buy it? Thank you!
Rotors seize to the shaft, I tap the top with a flat punch to break it first. Pretty common. I always open the dizzy when I get a new honda, most need a new rotor. Good time to check and replace your distributor oring, a common leak spot.
That's a excellent trick. I'll try that the next time I have to take the rotor out. I totally didn't think of tapping it first, but makes so much sense. Oh yeah the o-ring is new so I didn't need to replace it. Practically all the pieces in my dizzy were replaced not that long ago. I was surprised the rotor got seized already.
How do you tell it needs a new rotor visually, and what symptoms does it give? Mine is still original on 240K Km, looks ok and car runs fine?
can you please tell me what the conversion kit is exactly called and what ignition coils have you used? maybe give out links, thank you.
Hello, great video.Since your car is EF body, did you have any hood clearance issue with these coils?
@@B52PSI no issues with hood clearance. Its not much higher than a regular spark plug wire. I transfered these to my b18 now and still no clearance issus, but with the b18, its very tight with my coilpack plate bolted on. Needed to use counter sunk screws to fasten the plate on. Anything higher than the plate rubbed the hood. With the d series, its fine. Zero issues.
I have the same issue
@@WilliamPalmer-o4x I'm curious if you're having hood clearance issues because of the coil packs you're using. You should be using D17 coils. D17 fit perfect and no clearance issues. I believe the k series coil packs sit a lot higher.
Even though the plate is simple it looks legit. Looks like you should add something else to compliment it. Maybe with the same metal and paint.
Thanks man. Yeah I see what you mean. It's kind of got that black on red theme going on now. My oil cap looks out of place now. haha.
Thank you!! I have a question, Does this work with a D16z6 vtec 1995 engine? Because I really want to do this upgrade, algo, do I need a Hondata? Or just my stock p28 ECU that comes with my Civic 1995 EX coupe please let me know! Thank you for this video, is gold!
Yes, it should work for D16z6 all the obd1 and obd2 distributors have the same internals. It will work with any of those ECU's. If you have any further questions, you should reach out to the manufacturer mentioned in the video. They'll know their product better than me. I'm running this kit on my B18 now and never had any issues aside from it starting not as quick.
That's awesome man. I learned a lot from your build..
Thanks man. Appreciate you watching the videos!
Do you have for corolla 4afe
Do I have to have the ignition timing set already or can I do it after install of coil conversion?
@@bentracy3349 Either is fine. Always best to check your timing after you mess with your distributor. Make sure you keep one of your spark plug wires. You'll need it to set your timing.
hey bro i got a honda capa i swap to d16y7 i had in a d15b but i am using the d15b wire harness on the d16y7 i want to covert it to obd1 but i dont know how to do the wiring for it i need some help
Just buy an ecu jumper harness. Depending on if you're obd2a or obd2b, just buy the correct harness and it's pretty much plug and play.
@@BudgetGears i have a honda capa ga4a what jumper harness i need
oh do you have whatsapp or facebook and i can show u what i have
@@STANUELGAUTIER Please do your own research. I'll give you a tip, just look at what ECU connectors you have and you'll know what harness you need.
@@BudgetGears I cant tell buy looking at it like that i am no export in car
Hope this helps . I had a b16 that would start and runn for about 60 seconds then would die . So I pulled the cap off the dizzy and the pick ups in side all the plastic covering the metal Were cracked and split . Just trying to say the issue with it taking a little bit to start could have some to do with the plastic that Broke on your magnetic pic up .
There wasn't actually plastic that broke in the magnetic pick up. It's weird cause it's only half covered in plastic. Not sure if my dizzy is aftermarket or not cause I've seen that piece in both styles, covered in plastic and only half covered. So I actually chipped off pieces of the magnet. So I guess maybe the damage caused it to fire up slower. Not really sure. I guess as long as it fires up and runs, I'll just let it be. Another thing I did notice before doing the COP conversion was when I tested my new engine harness. The car seemed to fire up even better with the new engine harness. Might just be a coincidence.
Do you have to time your car after the install
Do you think the timing has to do woth it not starting fast enough?
@@Lorenzo-t8d yes, timing should be done anytime you mess with the distributor. I checked timing and it was spot on. The slow starting is intentional by the manufacturer. Read their response in the comments. I have since moved the system over to my b series and same kind of cranking. Maybe it cranks a bit faster now cause I upgraded my starter wire.
Nice video. I assume this will work on a B20? Where did you buy the distributor block-off plate? Thanks. Do you have a part number for the coil packs?
Yep, it'll work for b20. You'll have to go on the manufacturers website to read the specs. But it works for all the b, d, f, h motors. The dizzy cap can be bought on Amazon, eBay, aliexpress, etc. And the coil packs is yec 602a. Just coils for a 2001 civic. If you're gonna run them for your b20, I'd go with k20 coil packs cause you can use the mounting plate that has provisions for the holes on the k20 coils. The d17 coils need the ear choped off and you'll need some way to hold them down. They do pop out if you don't fasten the coil packs down.
@@BudgetGears thanks! BTO said I should use D16 coils for my application but you say these would pop out. I assume the valve cover for the B18 is the same as the B20?
@@slorice8723 The valve cover is the same for the B18 and B20. I'd say all coils will pop out if you don't fasten they down somehow. With the D17 coils, you'll grind off the ear to fit. There won't be a way to screw the coil down. You can make or buy a plate that goes over all the coils, which will hold them down. The other option is use K20 coils, which sit a bit higher, but they make a mounting plate that the coils screw into. So the plate sits on top of the valve cover and the coils screw in. Cleaner in my opinion. You just have to make sure you keep the coils fastened down.
did the hard to start go away>? or is it still the same after driving it for a while?
Its the same. I'm kind of used to it now. I just crank it longer. Sucks that I can't just push the button on my push start to fire it up. I now have to hold it so it cranks till it fires up.
Not bad at all pretty easy converting great content
Can you make me that for the cables i have same.kit update still working good???🎉
great job, my future project😉
How can you do a video as a "cheapest way to do conversion kit " and not show where did you buy the parts? or the link? what are you tryin to show? just intallation?
For real..
Dawg if you watch the video he says where he bought it
Do u need a tune to run these
If you mean a modified ecu with a tuned map, then no. It'll work on a virgin ecu or a modified ecu. But, it's best to check out the specs yourself and ask the company questions if you're unsure.
Did you set mechanical timing?
Yes, it was already set before the conversion. I marked my distributor and put it back to exactly the way it was. If you need to set your timing, the procedure is the same as stock, but you'll need to bridge the coil pack using a old spark plug wire to put a timing light to. Then twist the distributor and you're done.
@@BudgetGears did you check your timing after it was installed
The coil rotor might have done a few rotations
@@Lorenzo-t8d yes, timing was checked. Everything was spot on.
What are the pros and cons to swapping to a coil on plug as to the oem style? Only thing I think is a con is the cost of plugs as to wires
There's a lot of different pros and cons, but the main pros are that it provides more reliability by lasting longer than a normal distributor, providing consistent spark, ability to still run since it's running 4 coils vs a distributor running 1, simplier to fix if a coil dies as you can easily replace just the coil pack compared to the entire distributor, costs of conversion is similar to that of a better quality new distributor, cheaper than replacing with an OEM distributor if you can even still find one, allows for better spark tuning, etc. Some cons is that it still utilizes sensors inside the distributor, not really necessary unless your distributor is failing, cost of conversion, but if you have to replace distributor anyways, this is about the same price, still require a old spark plug wire to time the ignition as it still uses sensors inside distributor, engine may take more cranks to start because of sychronization, etc.
Could the issues youre facing be based solely on the fact that it's essentially the cheapest on the market? As ive heard great things from other kits
Doubt it. The kit works fine. Just takes longer to crank now. Many people have used this kit for years and haven't reported any issues. I think if I didn't have push button start, I'd probably not notice the cranking that much. It does fire up the crank after the initial start up sequence. Sometimes it still fires up within the start up sequence, but when it doesn't it's annoying because I'd have to reinitiate the start up sequence again. Just easier to hold the button.
Still your idle screw on throttle body
Can I go this on a 2000 civic lx
I love that the rotor button screw (which is normally the bitch) came right off while the rotor button (normally takes zero pressure to remove) was the major pain in the ass.
Side bar is the cop board tuneable?
lol. Yeah I know right! I've never had that much trouble with the rotor in other distributors. Weird thing is the rotor I removed was new and hasn't even seen 6000 kms yet.
I'm not sure if the board is tuneable or not. You can tune the ignition timing like you would with normal distributor timing, but I'm not familiar with any other tuning to it.
@@BudgetGears that's nuts man. And cool thanks for the info i have a d15 B TURBO CRX that i want to convert I'm checking out different options.
@@matthewglaze5398 That's awesome! That thing must be quick. I think all the COP kits probably work the same. I see most of the other ones are based on the hondarulez board that needs to be soldered into the ecu board. I wasn't a fan of modifying the ecu and then running another set of wiring from the ecu to the engine bay. This option allowed everything to be done at the distributor, which was something I liked. Also, being the most affordable kit made it a excellent option. 😁Only thing is I didn't really need to convert since I'm stock and I noticed no difference except my car takes longer to fire up now. lol.
@@BudgetGears the car is fast when it is working right. Lol hondas right? I haven't had it on a dyno yet just been street tuning it my self. But currently I'm having an issue where the afr gauge bugs out and starts reading full lean under heavy acceleration even though the car is still running fine. It's hurting the tuning process to say the least. And the affordable price of this cop option definitely makes it worth the shot. Snake tuning makes one similar to this. The most expensive stand alone one i have seen is called a digidizzy but at $700 dollars its a little steep.
I’m considering doing this mod to my 89 ef with a B16a. How well are they performing so far? How much mileage do you have on them so far?
I've had no issues since the installation. Works the same as before the mod. It's a sweet mod, but no real difference aside from my car taking a bit more cranks to fire up. I only drive it in the summer so I probably only put around 800 kms on it or maybe less. I'd say the mod is very cool looking, but I haven't noticed any change in performance or reliability. I guess performance is not something very obvious when the motor is stock. I'm sure it'll probably last a long time though so fingers crossed on reliability.
That’s good to know. I keep blowing thru aftermarket dizzys and keep getting engine codes. I did purchase your main relay adaptor kit, and I’m hoping this mod makes the car more reliable. I’ve had 2 breakdowns in the last month both related to the electrical system.
@@opticalsound7883 That totally sucks. The aftermarket dizzys seem to really be a hit or miss and the OEM ones are super expensive or discontinued. This mod would make the ignition more reliable, but it'll still rely on sensors in the dizzy. So hopefully you're not having any issues with those sensors. Thanks for purchasing my main relay. Really appreciate the support!
@@opticalsound7883for the dizzys, I recommend you change the ignition coil and igniter to a reliable brand like ngk. Ive gotten 50,000 miles on mine before replacing those items again and theyre not expensive vs the whole dizzy
What is your experience after this time using the system? I am considering buying it but I don't know anyone who uses it here in Puerto Rico
I didn't really use it that much because my car is only driven in the summer. I only got maybe a couple months of driving on it. It drives fine and works fine. Only thing is as mentioned in the video is that it takes longer to start. I'd say it's a nice upgrade if your distributor is failing or if you need it for a high horsepower build. If you're stock like me or close to stock, don't waste your money. You'll notice no difference between your good distributor and this upgrade. It'll only provide a different look. It's hard to tell with reliability because that needs to be tested over many years. Most OEM distributors will last a lifetime with a bit of maintenance.
very good video
Hello, excellent video, where can I buy that conversion kit?

@@MultiAlexanderjose Please contact the manufacturer mentioned throughout the video.
Does it have additional power?
Any update how been working?
Works fine. Works the same as when I made this video. I don't daily my car so the last time I drove it was in October. I did fire up the car a couple time during storage and still works the same as when I made this video.
Hey i just received the package, have you had issue with the tach ?
No issues. Was jumping sporadically at the initial drive but its been fine after.
from where u buy it bro ?
should i put a y8 or a z6 in my crx?
Depends what you're doing with the motor. If keeping stock, I'd go with a z6 if you can find one in good shape. The z6 is overall a stronger and better motor and you can run a stock p28 ecu without requiring tuning. If you're building the motor for more power etc. then it doesn't matter. Overall, the z6 was a better quality made motor compared to the y8.
Nice video! Quick question, what throttle cable did you use for the swap? I’m mpfi swapping my y7 ef right now
I used my stock si cable and modified it. You can see the video here: th-cam.com/video/msYJ_cs1knc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=F7SDel48sZCKf0Me
@@BudgetGears Thank you so much!
nice! for which car do you order the coils? i have a D16y8 and i want to know which car have the coils that fits on mine
You'll need D17 coils. So coils from a 2001-2005 Civic.
@@BudgetGears i already got the convertion kit but my D16Y8 distributor it doesnt have the tach wire, do you know what can i do ?
@@jernyz I'm assuming your distributor is the 99-00 one using the OBD2B plug. Those didn't come with a tach wire. You can easily open up the distributor and use a spade crimp and some wire and add it yourself. There's a spot for it in your distributor.
@@BudgetGears yes it is 99-00 Thankyou very much
where to get this conversion kit？thanks for info
where parts I can find ？？link？
Where did you get the coilplug bracket?
1:10
Do they make it for d15b7
The kit will work for a d15b7, but I suggest you check their website out and read about the kit applications.
Hi Bro..available for eg6??
This is something you should ask the manufacturer. I'm not the manufacturer or affiliated with them. You can contact the manufacturer mentioned in the video. Plus, the Honda COP conversions are not vehicle specific. As long as you have one of the engines listed in the title and OBD1/2, then it'll work.
@@BudgetGears thanks for Fast respons..can u give me Link for that item
hi, how can i get the BTO ? can you sent me the link?
how to order??
Hello, is this system suitable for d15b3 engine code? And where can I buy the product?
I'm not familiar with your engine since it's not something we have in North America. It looks like your motor is a carbureted engine, which is very different from our fuel injected engines. I'd recommend contacting BTO and asking them. I'd like to say no, it's not compatible, but I don't know for sure. This kit only works for engines with obd1 and obd2 distributors. And as mentioned in the video this kit is made by BTO so you can buy it from them.
where can i get it to do it
I just installed that same kit, and I’m having tach issues. Like it work for a few mins up to 3000 then is stops and doesn’t read at all. Any ideas what it could be?
You should contact BTO and ask them. It's their product.
@@BudgetGears I have thanks
where can i get it to do it
where do you get the kit at
Link? Product name or site, on ebay its not available
Where can I find this kit to buy
I wish they would make the Dizzy Cover hole big enough without modifying it
You have link how to order this cop kit
Donde puedo comprar el kit
Where did you buy this product, can I have it too?
where can i get that conversion kit?
How can I search for the kit?
Ciao sono un ragazzo italiano e vorrei montare sulla mia Honda crv lo stesso kit di conversione che hai utilizzato per la tua macchina, ovviamente adatto a motori b serie.
Se non è un problema per te,mi potresti dare un link per acquistare questo prodotto??
Grazie in anticipo
How long did it take for you to receive them bro?
Took about 3 to 4 weeks. It was sent with tracking. I do remember that the package was stuck for a while with no tracking updates, but that's more the postal service.
@@BudgetGears ahh huge thanks bro im about to buy a kit i was just wondering.
Can't see the benefits in this mod. Seems to run worse so i think ill just run the stock dizzy. Makes good power etc. No startup issues.
Hello.👋👋
I have a question.
Wath is with the ingnition timing?👀👀
I'm sorry, I dont understand what your question is. Are you asking me whats wrong with my ignition timing or what is it supposed to be? There's nothing wrong with my timing so I'm confused what you're asking.
Did you modify the ecu?
no, everything is done at the distributor only.
The difference will be in the high rpm
What are the benefits bc I’m not seeing any lol
Lol. For me there wasn't really any except it looks cool. I'd imagine those that have constantly failing aftermarket distributors might benefit from it. I dont doubt its a better spark and all, but really unnecessary for a stock motor. Haha. But brownie points for looking cool though. 😂
Please sent me the link
link modul
我也需要
Ecu stork
DigiDizzy.
Hi bro can I have your whatapp number I need some help about my d17
I want some parts of this engine......can you send them. I am from lahore Pakistan .And the one you did the modification also that kit. Plz send WhatsApp number.
How can I search for the kit?