LT1 Air Conditioner A/C Delete: Gen 4 Camaro Z28 1993-2001
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- Shown on my 1993 Z28 Camaro. I walk you thru removing your old AC compressor and installing a delete kit. Broken compressors will affect idle and can damage belts if it's locking up. You can replace it or you can delete it by adding a pully. No cold air but less drag means more horse power and nothings cooler than that.
#ac #airconditioner #acdelete #removal #repair #howto #camaro #gen4 #firebird #z28 #fbody #v8 #picklesgarage
do you still have the rear bracket for the ac compressor? i need 1 thanks
I may have one if you’d like to purchase it, are you talking about the bracket that has one bolt into the block?
What was the part number on the ac bypass part?
@@amann6115 Part Number: 3102-02106352
A/C Compressor By Pass Pulley - 1993-1997 Chevrolet Camaro 5.7L V8 - Dorman
You can get it on partsgeek but they sell the same thing a few places
Awesome video! I need to do this to my 96 Z28.
How much did the old junk weigh?
The compressor itself is 10+ pounds, add to that the rest of components you could probably get 25+ pounds out. The big advantage is less draw on the engine. Mine was locking up so it's a noticeable improvement in power. Thanks for watching!
@@picklesgarage I never knew that the compressor drew power. I thought it was only when the AC was on. Good to know. Ill definitely move this to the top of my list!
Hello i just took my ac condensor out today there is a i believe a trans cooler infront of it what did you do yo secure that it was zip tied to the trans cooler now i have to figure out what to mount it to. Any help i will greatly appreciate it
Sorry do you mean you are securing some transcooler lines? Or are you saying you removed the mini evap radiator and that had stuff zip tied to it? I have the cooling lines that go straight back into the firewall those have a bracket that mounts it to the passenger side inner fender. There are some cooling lines that run under the engine toward the power steering but those are hard lines that float freely. I kept my evap cooler radiator in so all I removed were the hard lines into the ac condenser which I removed from the evap and I removed the canister.
@picklesgarage infront of the radiator is the ac condensor and infront of the condensor there is this thing in not too familiar with sombody told me it might be a trans cooler but in not sure it's ziptied the the ac condensor and it has two lines running out of it . Was wondering if you had the same thing in your car and if so what did you do to secure it in afraid to get it close to the radiator with the heat of the radiator
@NJRangerGeorge Ah got ya. I did not remove my condenser so I am not sure entirely. I think heat wise you should be OK if it remain close but I'm not able to look on mine at the moment unfortunetly
@picklesgarage I'm going to try to figure out a way to zip tie it to something lol but not the radiator
@picklesgarage one thing that is good removing the condensor is you allow the radiator to breathe better so it's a win win
Hello it's me again . I'm installing the pulley do I need to use the washers that came with the ARP bolts?
I didn't, because the holes are threaded and the bracket will be pushed up against the pully I don't think you need it. You'll want it all together snug a washer won't do much but give it less thread to hang on to.
@picklesgarage thanks . I have the washers on but only issue I have is when it starts getting tight threading into the bracket the pulle won go completely flush on the bracket
@NJRangerGeorge yeah that's the biggest thing. What I did is I had all three bolts threaded thru the pully already so they were just about to go thru to the other side. Then I placed the pully against the bracket and hand tightened until all three were equally biting and it was flush before I started tightening anything. It's really easy to Crack or damaged the pully just because it has threads if if it's not completely flush on all three points it will twist
@picklesgarage I think the rebuilds of my motor did something to the thredding on my bracket the bolts that came with the pulley won't even work only the ARP but I keep getting that tiny gap
@NJRangerGeorge Hopfully the pully isn't warped a little. I'd try maybe alternating which bolt you start hand tightening first maybe there's one specific one that's throwing the others. I did re attempt 2-3 times before it got totally flush. I think I did middle bottom then top
I just got mine today from parts geek. Is yours brand Doram too and was yours a plastic pulley?
It was yes, works fine for me doesn't look like you can change out the pully. Biggest thing is making sure it's flat against the 3 mounting points it can Crack or break easily if the bolt isn't threading with it flush against the bracket
@picklesgarage thanks yea I ordered the same bolts that 5 pack you used . Did you torque them or just tightened it good ?
@NJRangerGeorge It will go thru a fair amount of vibration so you do want them pretty soild but I wouldn't make them too tight. The length bolts I used are almost the perfect length that it just about bottoms out so you'll feel it when it's in there good
@picklesgarage thank you always appreciate you looking out 👊
@@NJRangerGeorge Sure thing!
You didint remove the ac condensor or the part on the firewall?
Not yet, I did on my other older camaro and have a video. This was more an immediate fix because of a bad compressor affecting my idle and not working anyway. I might eventually put ac back in it so this is just removing that part. Hopfully this still helped a bit but sorry if you were looking for that portion of the process.
@picklesgarage it was a great video thank you your vid helped me remove my ac compressor . I appreciate it brother
@picklesgarage I'm going to look for that video on your channel thanks again
@NJRangerGeorge sure thing thanks for watching!