Thanks very much for the comment Leo! Hope my video helped you out replacing that difficult-to-get-at compressor lol. I think mine was stock after 25 years as well, shaft seal and clutch went out. Let's enjoy our cars, they sure don't make 'em like they use to. I tell everyone, Power, Luxury AND Economy, yes you CAN have it all when American engineers do it right lol. Cheers Leo!~ Bellarmine
You are 💯% right. They certainly do not make em like they use to. The quality of metal these days is questionable as well as many other things. American made vehicles......use to be a good thing. The hands of time have always been the true test. Regardless, keep on rocking 🤘🏼
Thank you so much for this video!!!! Just did an AC delete on my 1996 Roadmaster Wagon. FYI, The bolt in the back of the block holding the compressor bracket is a 6mm 12 spline socket.
So glad the video was helpful Shawn! Thanks for the tip on that Torx stud, appreciate it. I hope your A/C delete is only a temporary measure, it sure is nice to have in the Summertime....:o) I got that good used compressor from B&R Auto wrecking shipped to my door for only about $60 with a 30day warranty, good deal. So you have a 96 wagon, NICE car,, so much room and fun to drive. I actually have a beige '96 Roadmaster Wagon as well, I should upload a video of it. I drive the blue Sedan in the Winter so I can save the Wagon from the slush - 200,000 miles but the underbody is Clean, mean to keep it as they don't make 'em like these any more. As I always say about these cars, Power, Luxury AND economy - yes you CAN have it all - when the engineers are allowed to do it right lol. Let me know if you'd want me to email you a brochure. Keep 'er running Shawn, and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Hi Esteban, thanks a bunch for the comment, Super glad to hear it was helpful! Enjoy your car, they sure don't make 'em like they used to anymore ....:o) Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Great video. Once you got the stud out can you put a regular bolt in it instead of using the stud and bolt again. I got the same compressor on my 96 ss I’m getting ready to change out. Trying to prepare myself
Hi Vic, Thanks for the comment and sorry for the delay. Sure, I don't see why you couldn't replace the stud with a bolt, obviously make sure the bolt is not too long or it'll bottom out in the block. An alternative idea I came across (see link in my video desc), is to 'notch' the back of the bracket, then next time you can simply loosen the nut and slide the compressor off. Best of luck doing your '96 SS, hope you get to it soon, it's not too bad once you get going and get in there...:o) Think you have tuned pipe exhaust manifolds? These cars are great, real sleepers, people keep thinking I've got a 3L engine in there, when I tell them it's a 5.7 they're shocked!...:o) Let me know how it goes or if you have any questions, I have lots of DIY tips on recharging and etc (as you no doubt already heard...:o) Best wishes Vic and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Great to hear, thanks for sharing! So glad it helped you out, yes it is a difficult job but I feel I've found just about the most painless way of doing it........:o) Keep 'em running, they don't make them like they used to anymore. Thanks for the comment and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 Went pretty good actually, I also suggest people replace the orifice tube this one wasn't to bad but had some compressor metal in it. Flushed condenser and she blew Ice cold!
@@brandonmaddy Thanks for the comment Firemist, glad it was helpful, that's really great to hear! So you replaced the orifice tube eh? I imagine you also had to put a filter inline with your new compressor to protect it from the metal shards. Fortunately mine didn't blow up, just lost the shaft seal. I just replaced it and charged it up and it's now Ice Cold too, I think everything else is stock lol. Thanks for letting me know Firemist, and enjoy your Roadmaster. They don't make 'em like they use to, I tell everyone, Power, Luxury AND Economy, yes you CAN have it all when American engineers do it right lol. Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Hey man thanks for the video. This is by far the best one on TH-cam and it motivated me to go outside and attempt mine since I've had a new compressor for a year now. Just 2 things I'm concerned about is when to add the dye and is the brand four seasons a decent brand to install?
Hi Demery, glad to hear my video helped you get your project going, thanks for the comment and good words! Four Seasons is a decent brand, I think the previous owner of my 96 Roady Wagon said he installed one, still running perfect and quet. It's one of the more expensive models, see here at my favorite parts place - their handy fun index system of every car made just can't be beat!: www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/buick,1994,roadmaster,5.7l+v8,1022151,heat+&+air+conditioning,a/c+compressor,6628 As for the dye, are you using over the counter cans? If you're using a 'dye injector' I think it might need to be added with the system empty, otherwise in can form it can be added anytime. I'd do it at the end. Also, again if you're using cans, many of the refrigerant cans have dye in them now, even if they don't say so (wish they didn't...:o) After using a can of R12a/R134a, just look at the end where the pierce hole is, see if it's stained a bit green/yellow. If it is, you've got dye with the refrigerant and don't need to add any. Then just get a cheap UV LED light and you can 'try' and see any leaks after a few days......... Hope this helps Demery, anything else just drop me a line, and let me know if you'd like me to email you a PDF brochure for your car. Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Hi Random, thanks for your question. I got mine used from a scrapyard V6 Camaro (same compressor). Works perfect, except it has a leak in the body, recharge it every 2 years, but only paid $65...:o) If you want new, I would recommend 4 Seasons, that's what's in my '96 Wagon, past 7 years, works very well and very quiet. Here's a link to some choices at my favorite car parts place, just browsing the parts index for almost every car ever made teaches you something..:o) www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/buick,1996,roadmaster,5.7l+v8,1022218,heat+&+air+conditioning,a/c+compressor,6628 Here is the 4 Seasons compressor: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=816504&cc=1022218&pt=6628 Hope that's helpful Ransom, any other questions or comments drop me another note anytime. Cheers!~ Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 it went well! I ended up just putting in a ac delete pulley as the car is not very pristine anyways! Had to take off the fan and upper rad hose and shroud to get the damn thing out though
Glad you got it out, yes it is a pain, especially if you have the tow pack which sounds like you have, a real cram job! Too bad you're now missing A/C, but at least you won't have a squealing A/C clutch like I had at the beginning. FYI I got my used compressor from B&O Auto Wrecking for $75 CDN shipped to my door, leaks a small bit but blows Ice cold and nice quiet pulley, with a few cans of R12A might be an idea if you still drive in the Summer. Enjoy your car, as I say: Power Luxury and Economy, you can have it all when engineers are allowed to do it right! Let me know if you'd want me to email you a brochure - Thanks and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Hello again Mark, well 2 reasons mainly. One is obviously we decided to upgrade to the much bigger and nicer Roadmaster, and mainly is the LeSabre had really had it's day. Guess you can't see too well in the video I have of it, it was time. Engine mounts were coming down, floor was coming down, needed brake lines done again, harmonic balancer was shot. As you saw it still ran flawless, just was too far gone to keep driving - yep we drove her right into the ground, and the reliable 3.8L powertrain just kept chugging along like my mechanic said it would - unkillable! If you ever have problems with your Regal being hard to start but it keeps catching and catching, no power and won't restart after shutting it off unless you let it sit for 1/2hr - replace your fuel pump. Happened to the LeSabre, ran the tank dry, toasted the pump, 12PSI instead of 40PSI - was a real pain until I put a new pump in then all good again. Thanks for the comment - Cheers Mark!~ Bellarmine
Hi Vasco, Thanks for the comment, and compliment! Glad you enjoy my humour.......:o) As for the alternator, no I don't think it would be any help, as the power steering pump is still above the compressor. Removing the PS pump might help but that's a real pain what with the hydraulic lines and so forth. Hope the video helped you out, let me know if you have any other questions, or if you'd like a PDF brochure for these cars. Power, Luxury AND Economy, you can have it all when people are allowed to do it right!......:o) Best wishes Vasco and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Hi MonQuarius, the Dryer can / Dry12 / ProDry / etc etc (insert trade name here), it drys out / removes any moisture in the system, by converting it to lubricating oil. Moisture is always BAD, as it can cause corrosion over time, and it doesn't cool well at all. If I can't vacuum the system out I always put in a can of Dry12. Also, ALWAYS use some Dry12 before putting any SEALANT in the system! Since the sealant reacts with moisture, if there's any moisture in the system when you use the sealant, you just might end up with a plugged nightmare...:o) I just put some Dry12 into my neighbors van, and it went from warm to ice-cold, so I guess he had a lot of moisture - he sure needs the AC this year! If you're in Canada, best place to buy all the cans is MAP chain (Muskoka Auto Parts) - R12A for $8, Dry12 for $10, ProSeal for $18, cheapest around! Thanks for the question MonQuarius - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 okay thanks for the reply, so I just replace my compressor ( oil in compressor) and changed the dryer havent charged it yet. So step 1 put in the dry12 let that cycle for how long? Would I need the sealant if so when to put that in before or after the 134-a? I plan on doing all of this tomorrow. I'm not in Canada I'm in Louisiana lol. Thanks again
Also I have a 1995 impala ss 5.7 lt1 i think it's the same engine as in the roadmaster.. after watching your video I was able to save 300 bucks buy changing my own compressor which it took me 1hr n half thanks for the helpful video
@@318sears8 Hi MonQuarius, Congrats on changing the compressor in your Impala, 1.5 hours pretty good, real happy to hear I saved you some cash! You're right, same LT1 engine as the Roadmaster, with a better air intake and (not sure) exhaust manifolds. Regarding charging it up, start the engine and turn on the AC, then add the 2 cans / 24oz R12A/R134A and run it for a few minutes - make sure compressor is engaging etc. Next, add the Dry12, run it a bit more, say 10mins. Finally, if you want, add the Sealant (shake can well), and take it for a 20min drive with the AC on. In any case, add the Refrigerant FIRST, NOT the Sealant or Dry12. The compressor and system MUST be running before adding the sealant / Dry12. Charge is 1.5lbs/24oz - I think each can is 1lb/16oz R134, so 1 and a half cans (check the label on your old dryer, keep it if poss). Do you have the double gauge set? Not sure how you'd want to deal with the other half can. I think you can get away with putting both cans in, might be a bit overcharged but you can let a bit out if need be, also you might loose a bit during charging for the 1st time. Turn the cans upside down and let the stuff in slowly, don't let the low-side gauge go over 60PSI at any time. It should be around/under 40PSI when the cans are empty and the system is operating. I would recommend running it for a day or two to make sure everything is running properly, and see if it leaks or not (you might not need the sealant). Just attach the gauge every day with the car cold and check the pressure like a car tire, give you a feel what it's doing. Should go up and down a fair bit with outside temp (in the garage vs in the sunshine), but not drop drastically. I write a table with pressures and outside temperatures, etc, that's how I learned. After that, if you think it is leaking, then add the sealant and take it for a 20min drive. You might need another can of R12, though now it gets very difficult to tell how much is in there without a high-side gauge and/or without venting it all out and recharging with another 24oz. Hope this is helpful and not too wordy - let me know how it goes, good luck tomorrow MonQuarious! Anything else let me know - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Hi Lucki, Thanks for your question. I don't really know the exact size, it was there I just used it.....:o) Since I used a US socket I'd say it's US thread, and I think it might be a 5/16 stud/nut. See a good shot of the stud and nut at 1:25 and also at the beginning. Hope this helps Lucki, let me know if there's anything else - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
![โอ้เธอช่าง... - บี้เดอะสกา ft. ต๋อง เทวัญ (Prod. by ป๋าเพชร) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zbWhiLFmVL0/mqdefault.jpg)
Replaced my stock 26 year old Compressor with an AC Delco one. I’m glad I’m not alone here & thank you for sharing 💯🇺🇸
Just subscribed
Thanks very much for the comment Leo! Hope my video helped you out replacing that difficult-to-get-at compressor lol. I think mine was stock after 25 years as well, shaft seal and clutch went out. Let's enjoy our cars, they sure don't make 'em like they use to. I tell everyone, Power, Luxury AND Economy, yes you CAN have it all when American engineers do it right lol. Cheers Leo!~ Bellarmine
You are 💯% right. They certainly do not make em like they use to. The quality of metal these days is questionable as well as many other things. American made vehicles......use to be a good thing. The hands of time have always been the true test. Regardless, keep on rocking 🤘🏼
Thank you so much for this video!!!! Just did an AC delete on my 1996 Roadmaster Wagon.
FYI, The bolt in the back of the block holding the compressor bracket is a 6mm 12 spline socket.
So glad the video was helpful Shawn! Thanks for the tip on that Torx stud, appreciate it. I hope your A/C delete is only a temporary measure, it sure is nice to have in the Summertime....:o) I got that good used compressor from B&R Auto wrecking shipped to my door for only about $60 with a 30day warranty, good deal. So you have a 96 wagon, NICE car,, so much room and fun to drive. I actually have a beige '96 Roadmaster Wagon as well, I should upload a video of it. I drive the blue Sedan in the Winter so I can save the Wagon from the slush - 200,000 miles but the underbody is Clean, mean to keep it as they don't make 'em like these any more. As I always say about these cars, Power, Luxury AND economy - yes you CAN have it all - when the engineers are allowed to do it right lol. Let me know if you'd want me to email you a brochure. Keep 'er running Shawn, and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Very helpful video thanks. It save me some time I was planning on talking a bunch of parts off.
Hi Esteban, thanks a bunch for the comment, Super glad to hear it was helpful! Enjoy your car, they sure don't make 'em like they used to anymore ....:o) Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Great video. Once you got the stud out can you put a regular bolt in it instead of using the stud and bolt again. I got the same compressor on my 96 ss I’m getting ready to change out. Trying to prepare myself
Hi Vic, Thanks for the comment and sorry for the delay. Sure, I don't see why you couldn't replace the stud with a bolt, obviously make sure the bolt is not too long or it'll bottom out in the block. An alternative idea I came across (see link in my video desc), is to 'notch' the back of the bracket, then next time you can simply loosen the nut and slide the compressor off. Best of luck doing your '96 SS, hope you get to it soon, it's not too bad once you get going and get in there...:o) Think you have tuned pipe exhaust manifolds? These cars are great, real sleepers, people keep thinking I've got a 3L engine in there, when I tell them it's a 5.7 they're shocked!...:o) Let me know how it goes or if you have any questions, I have lots of DIY tips on recharging and etc (as you no doubt already heard...:o) Best wishes Vic and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 great plan. I'm gonna notch mine.
Even 3 years on, this is still a super helpful tip. Turned a 3 hour job into a 45 minute job, thank you for this 🙏
Great to hear, thanks for sharing! So glad it helped you out, yes it is a difficult job but I feel I've found just about the most painless way of doing it........:o) Keep 'em running, they don't make them like they used to anymore. Thanks for the comment and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Doing one tomorrow! 1996 Roadmaster 70,000 miles :) Thanks for the video
You're welcome, glad the video was helpful! Let me know how it went, thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 Went pretty good actually, I also suggest people replace the orifice tube this one wasn't to bad but had some compressor metal in it. Flushed condenser and she blew Ice cold!
@@brandonmaddy Thanks for the comment Firemist, glad it was helpful, that's really great to hear! So you replaced the orifice tube eh? I imagine you also had to put a filter inline with your new compressor to protect it from the metal shards. Fortunately mine didn't blow up, just lost the shaft seal. I just replaced it and charged it up and it's now Ice Cold too, I think everything else is stock lol. Thanks for letting me know Firemist, and enjoy your Roadmaster. They don't make 'em like they use to, I tell everyone, Power, Luxury AND Economy, yes you CAN have it all when American engineers do it right lol. Cheers!~ Bellarmine
been looking for a video like this for a while thanks man!!
You're welcome, glad it was helpful! As always any questions let me know. Cheers Gerald!~ Bellarmine
Thanks for showing the tools needed.
Hey man thanks for the video. This is by far the best one on TH-cam and it motivated me to go outside and attempt mine since I've had a new compressor for a year now. Just 2 things I'm concerned about is when to add the dye and is the brand four seasons a decent brand to install?
Hi Demery, glad to hear my video helped you get your project going, thanks for the comment and good words! Four Seasons is a decent brand, I think the previous owner of my 96 Roady Wagon said he installed one, still running perfect and quet. It's one of the more expensive models, see here at my favorite parts place - their handy fun index system of every car made just can't be beat!:
www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/buick,1994,roadmaster,5.7l+v8,1022151,heat+&+air+conditioning,a/c+compressor,6628
As for the dye, are you using over the counter cans? If you're using a 'dye injector' I think it might need to be added with the system empty, otherwise in can form it can be added anytime. I'd do it at the end. Also, again if you're using cans, many of the refrigerant cans have dye in them now, even if they don't say so (wish they didn't...:o) After using a can of R12a/R134a, just look at the end where the pierce hole is, see if it's stained a bit green/yellow. If it is, you've got dye with the refrigerant and don't need to add any. Then just get a cheap UV LED light and you can 'try' and see any leaks after a few days.........
Hope this helps Demery, anything else just drop me a line, and let me know if you'd like me to email you a PDF brochure for your car. Cheers!~ Bellarmine
😂 this dudes funny and a great mechanic.
What is the best compressor? I have the 1996 caprice
Hi Random, thanks for your question. I got mine used from a scrapyard V6 Camaro (same compressor). Works perfect, except it has a leak in the body, recharge it every 2 years, but only paid $65...:o) If you want new, I would recommend 4 Seasons, that's what's in my '96 Wagon, past 7 years, works very well and very quiet. Here's a link to some choices at my favorite car parts place, just browsing the parts index for almost every car ever made teaches you something..:o)
www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/buick,1996,roadmaster,5.7l+v8,1022218,heat+&+air+conditioning,a/c+compressor,6628
Here is the 4 Seasons compressor:
www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=816504&cc=1022218&pt=6628
Hope that's helpful Ransom, any other questions or comments drop me another note anytime. Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Great job of informing
Glad it was helpful, thanks for the comment Tim! - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
It helped me, mine just locked up and I have to remove
Thanks for the comment, glad it was helpful. If you want let me know how it goes or if you have any other questions. Cheers!~ Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 it went well! I ended up just putting in a ac delete pulley as the car is not very pristine anyways! Had to take off the fan and upper rad hose and shroud to get the damn thing out though
Glad you got it out, yes it is a pain, especially if you have the tow pack which sounds like you have, a real cram job! Too bad you're now missing A/C, but at least you won't have a squealing A/C clutch like I had at the beginning. FYI I got my used compressor from B&O Auto Wrecking for $75 CDN shipped to my door, leaks a small bit but blows Ice cold and nice quiet pulley, with a few cans of R12A might be an idea if you still drive in the Summer. Enjoy your car, as I say: Power Luxury and Economy, you can have it all when engineers are allowed to do it right! Let me know if you'd want me to email you a brochure - Thanks and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Why did you sell your 99 LeSabre?
Hello again Mark, well 2 reasons mainly. One is obviously we decided to upgrade to the much bigger and nicer Roadmaster, and mainly is the LeSabre had really had it's day. Guess you can't see too well in the video I have of it, it was time. Engine mounts were coming down, floor was coming down, needed brake lines done again, harmonic balancer was shot. As you saw it still ran flawless, just was too far gone to keep driving - yep we drove her right into the ground, and the reliable 3.8L powertrain just kept chugging along like my mechanic said it would - unkillable! If you ever have problems with your Regal being hard to start but it keeps catching and catching, no power and won't restart after shutting it off unless you let it sit for 1/2hr - replace your fuel pump. Happened to the LeSabre, ran the tank dry, toasted the pump, 12PSI instead of 40PSI - was a real pain until I put a new pump in then all good again. Thanks for the comment - Cheers Mark!~ Bellarmine
bellarmine33 actually the starting issue I had with my regal was the starter
Would it be easier to unbolt the alternator?
Hi Vasco, Thanks for the comment, and compliment! Glad you enjoy my humour.......:o) As for the alternator, no I don't think it would be any help, as the power steering pump is still above the compressor. Removing the PS pump might help but that's a real pain what with the hydraulic lines and so forth. Hope the video helped you out, let me know if you have any other questions, or if you'd like a PDF brochure for these cars. Power, Luxury AND Economy, you can have it all when people are allowed to do it right!......:o) Best wishes Vasco and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Check for debris in the orafice tube
What's that a c dryer can?
Hi MonQuarius, the Dryer can / Dry12 / ProDry / etc etc (insert trade name here), it drys out / removes any moisture in the system, by converting it to lubricating oil. Moisture is always BAD, as it can cause corrosion over time, and it doesn't cool well at all. If I can't vacuum the system out I always put in a can of Dry12. Also, ALWAYS use some Dry12 before putting any SEALANT in the system! Since the sealant reacts with moisture, if there's any moisture in the system when you use the sealant, you just might end up with a plugged nightmare...:o) I just put some Dry12 into my neighbors van, and it went from warm to ice-cold, so I guess he had a lot of moisture - he sure needs the AC this year! If you're in Canada, best place to buy all the cans is MAP chain (Muskoka Auto Parts) - R12A for $8, Dry12 for $10, ProSeal for $18, cheapest around! Thanks for the question MonQuarius - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 okay thanks for the reply, so I just replace my compressor ( oil in compressor) and changed the dryer havent charged it yet. So step 1 put in the dry12 let that cycle for how long? Would I need the sealant if so when to put that in before or after the 134-a? I plan on doing all of this tomorrow. I'm not in Canada I'm in Louisiana lol. Thanks again
Also I have a 1995 impala ss 5.7 lt1 i think it's the same engine as in the roadmaster.. after watching your video I was able to save 300 bucks buy changing my own compressor which it took me 1hr n half thanks for the helpful video
Oh I did change the orifice tube and will replace all o rings once I put the new dryer on
@@318sears8 Hi MonQuarius, Congrats on changing the compressor in your Impala, 1.5 hours pretty good, real happy to hear I saved you some cash! You're right, same LT1 engine as the Roadmaster, with a better air intake and (not sure) exhaust manifolds. Regarding charging it up, start the engine and turn on the AC, then add the 2 cans / 24oz R12A/R134A and run it for a few minutes - make sure compressor is engaging etc. Next, add the Dry12, run it a bit more, say 10mins. Finally, if you want, add the Sealant (shake can well), and take it for a 20min drive with the AC on. In any case, add the Refrigerant FIRST, NOT the Sealant or Dry12. The compressor and system MUST be running before adding the sealant / Dry12.
Charge is 1.5lbs/24oz - I think each can is 1lb/16oz R134, so 1 and a half cans (check the label on your old dryer, keep it if poss). Do you have the double gauge set? Not sure how you'd want to deal with the other half can. I think you can get away with putting both cans in, might be a bit overcharged but you can let a bit out if need be, also you might loose a bit during charging for the 1st time. Turn the cans upside down and let the stuff in slowly, don't let the low-side gauge go over 60PSI at any time. It should be around/under 40PSI when the cans are empty and the system is operating.
I would recommend running it for a day or two to make sure everything is running properly, and see if it leaks or not (you might not need the sealant). Just attach the gauge every day with the car cold and check the pressure like a car tire, give you a feel what it's doing. Should go up and down a fair bit with outside temp (in the garage vs in the sunshine), but not drop drastically. I write a table with pressures and outside temperatures, etc, that's how I learned. After that, if you think it is leaking, then add the sealant and take it for a 20min drive. You might need another can of R12, though now it gets very difficult to tell how much is in there without a high-side gauge and/or without venting it all out and recharging with another 24oz.
Hope this is helpful and not too wordy - let me know how it goes, good luck tomorrow MonQuarious! Anything else let me know - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Next time do what the video say
Do what what video says, don't understand. Thanks for the comment, hope the video was helpful - cheers!~ Bellarmine
What is the size of the nut used to put on? 8:21
Hi Lucki, Thanks for your question. I don't really know the exact size, it was there I just used it.....:o) Since I used a US socket I'd say it's US thread, and I think it might be a 5/16 stud/nut. See a good shot of the stud and nut at 1:25 and also at the beginning. Hope this helps Lucki, let me know if there's anything else - Cheers!~ Bellarmine