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@blaster1120 Glad to hear it went well and I appreciate you sharing your added time saves. Thanks for watching!

@@picklesgarage couldn’t have done it without the videos guidance!! Thank you!

@@1ninjadon Sure thing, thanks for watching

Question, i changed my pump already but code still exist

@1ninjadon So couple things with that, if you changed it recently you'd have to clear the code and drive around like normal for up to a couple weeks at times to get thru a full drive cycle. If you have done that and you still have the code my recommendation would be to replace all of those O rings you saw on the fittings and the rubber grommet you have on the pump itself. This is unfortunetly where it's a bit of a guessing game without the smoke machine mentioned. Best thing is to try to run it then turn it off and see if you can smell fuel (not exhaust) in a specific area because that will be your issue. Then you'd have to clear the code and do the drive cycle again. I'd hate for you to throw more parts at it so best step is to make sure it's a perfect leak free system first then maybe move on to a purge valve. Hope this helps this code is about a leak in a pretty large system so it's just about finding where

@@picklesgarage aii thnx, I’ll take into consideration

@phillippianriley You'd think, issue is it was impossible to get the tool in until the hole got to that point. It did grip very briefly but the grip around the plug against the engine was stronger than the metal at the center. I think the tool would have worked better with threads that were further apart to keep the center smaller and then the pilot hole wouldn't have had to be nearly the same size as the screw. I'm sure for some it could work but the point is it's not the one size fits all option and a quick hammer will do a better job because if you have room to drill you have room to hammer.

@kenamaro It is possible but you have to be careful dealing with fuel lines to release pressure properly and keep it away if the engine is hot and clean up any that spills. Just because not everyone will have that comfort level I avoid work with fuel lines in as many of my videos as possible. I personally found it easiest to just remove the cap from the housing which is connected to the metal hard line. Yes if you take the time to remove from that as well it could be easier I was just able to do it without further removal leaving it together. If you are able to do it differently maybe you can comment here how it went so people can choose to add that into their process. My motivation is to help people save money so always welcome people to add what they found was easier to the steps I show. Thanks for watching.

@ridethestorm6690 12003759. Best to go on rockauto or similar and verify it's the right one you need by searching your specific vehicle. Thanks for watching

@@jackbnimble2873 Sure thing, thanks for watching

@greenblood9509 Jeeps, more than almost any vehical I would say, are very commonly modified. This is a terrible location for the relay but that is its factory location. People will commonly move them. It's going to be hard to help with where yours is specifically but the best process is to try to follow the wires from the fan itself to locate if it's going to be in or around the fusebox or if it was bypassed entirely. Some also get moved to the driverside but I would try to get a general idea before going further on the other side.

@barneythedog977 Yeah I always double check there's no air pocket especially if you are burping it in a driveway that isn't level. I essentially have the cap off and then that bleed valve open. Then top off with it running until it starts to rise in the radiator, put the cap on and then wait for fluid to come out the bleed valve then close it Ill do that a couple times after it cools back down again Id rather lose a little more coolant than I need to than over heat. I do know with most electric fans they don't turn on until it hits a certain temp but if it was overheating they should have kicked on. Might have to replace the sensor but I'd double check on the air pocket first maybe it's messing with it getting a good read. If they came on when you had the heater going then that should mean you are fine on the wiring and everything, just might be the trigger thats messed up.

@@picklesgarage Thanks man! Tell me please what sensor should I check. I am getting a good reading on the dash so that sensor is working fine. I hope there is another one I can replace if needed. It was in a garage on four jack stands, as level as can be I think. I will try that exact way to burp it asap. I read in the manual I think, that it could take a few times to get all the air pockets out.

@barneythedog977 Yeah might just be some extra air in there then. The sensor I'm referring to is on the front of the water pump lower driver side it has a brass fitting and then a plug. Not sure if you replaced that one with the new pump. It's probably functioning OK it's more likely an air pocket but if you had to replace that they are pretty cheap.

@@picklesgarage I stuck the old one back in, isn't that the one that reads on my dash, which reads fine at least works, not sure if its accurate? I would replace it if needed in a heart beat. Will it leak all over, if so I could do another half arse flush and replace it. I WAS LUCKY TO SHUT IT OFF THE FIRST TIME, IT WAS RGIHT AT THE EMERGENCY TEMP READING, JUST BELOW FOR SURE BUT SCARY.

@barneythedog977 So there are technically 2. The one on the water pump connects to the ECU which can make changes to air fuel mixture and should signal to the fans. There's another temp sensor on the driver side head that should be what connects to the gauge. Still might just be the air pocket issue it's really easy with these especially with all that got opened up.

@@rodrigorosas8966 I appreciate it, thanks for watching

@johnbecker683 Great tip. I'd agree it's worth getting the specialty tools especially if you know you'll have to do this a few times. Or even rent them if possible. Sometimes it has to be a little cobbled to just use tools you have around but I appreciate the comment. Thanks for watching!

Yeah I haven't done a complete flush on mine yet. I do need to but I have completely drained mine a few times for different reasons thru the hoses and gave it the gooda 'nuff. Found out when changing the freeze plugs on my Jeep it can get plenty muddy in there but I'm holding out hope the amateur drain, fill and drain again got most of the bad stuff for now on the camaro

@@picklesgarage I read about half and half of the coolant is in the block and other is in the radiator and hoses etc. I will do a drain once every 2 weeks or so once I get it back running and see what kind of crap still comes out. I figure for 15.90 a gallon of good green and a buck for gallon of distilled, I could drain it about 4 times for sixty bucks or so. Probably not the smartest way, but also the safer bet for now. I have had it down for over a month, looking into all this stuff and mainly avoiding 103 degrees with 80 plus % humidity after the short rains lately. Now its in the 80s and with a few good fans blowing a much better working condition. PS I saw your gaskets kind of bunched up around the bolts, from where you did the first replace and then this time, that was great to see because I assumed that shape on my old gasket was gasket sealant, but I now think it was a dry gasket as you suggest from the factory all along. It is a pop on job now that I don't have to mess with RTV and a the RTV covered gasket falling off onto dirty frame etc. THANKS AGAIN YOUR VIDEOS ARE VERY WELL DONE

@barneythedog977 Sounds good, yeah the heat is killer at the moment. I pulled the ac so there's a few months I can't go near the car and working on it is brutal. Sure thing, I appreciate it!

@barneythedog977 Yeah that sounds like it checks out, great tip for sure!

if you don't have the proper tool for the clamps ... a medium sized set of channel locks works as good as anything .

@@sangamonriverrats6769 true but the clamps were some how turned down and very hard to get anything to grab and squeeze them at all. All good now. I replaced some with easy hose screw bands

I am happy to see a well made choice for 252 ish. I just heard when I doubt size 10 loll I literally said to myself the other day man is 90 on stuff 10 mill now

@barneythedog977 Haha yeah they get ridiculous. Sometimes on the cheaper ones it's just the cap not a whole new opti so you have to sort of modify the old opti and replace the cap. That's the option I went with because I wasn't about to throw 700 at it and a pump and I didn't want to bother with a cheap opti either. Yeah 10 mill everything I always start there haha.

@@picklesgarage Oh ok so its more of a rebuild than a full opti, makes sense.

@barneythedog977 Hello, I used the paper gaskets that came with the water pump. No additional RTV, though I did use a thread sealant on the bolts. That all should be sufficient as long as you have an extremely clean surface on the block. I removed the old gasket with a razor. Rtv can work but you have to be careful not to over do it and have material floating around in the system so I'd recommend the paper gaskets that should come with your new pump. Hope this helps, thanks for watching.

@@picklesgarage I have the ones from AC DELCO and a set on the way of FELPRO, 2 emails from FELPRO assuring that their gaskets go on clean dry surface (i razored it to nice clean surface ) and that's all I do. BUT the AC delco instructions say I must use a RTV sealant with fiber type gaskets or it might leak down the line. It is so damn irritating no one agrees lol. Thanks for the insight and help!

@barneythedog977 Haha tell me about it. Some will say you need it, some will say it won't work if you have it. That's always the funniest comments I'll have on videos will be people acting like something is obviously done one way and then another comment will be how it's obviously done the opposite. I can put your mind at ease though that I did it as I described and it doesn't leak a drop. I think there's a right way to do it either way but mine works just fine as is. I will say as I always recommend on this video that it's worth checking on your optispark while it's all apart. I have a video on the process. Whether you get just a cap or the whole opti it's essentially the same steps but it will save you. I had to do the water pump job twice when my opti went out weeks later.

@@picklesgarage excellent advice, my freaking opti was leaked on slowly for years I guess, I got the 95 vet this year on fathers day, it was a coincidence on that day, lol not a gift . but I am saying a few months ago or so. I was shocked how dirty the area behind the pump was and the filth from the water pump shaft bearings seal being totally apart and ball bearings are showing. I have seen it on some other channel on here too. I THANK GOD my opti is still fine. I will watch your video now. THANKS

@barneythedog977 Yeah bit of a rough design on these. I appreciate it, have a good one!

@@The_Defiant_One Nice one

@cherryflip1369 The engine is or the camshaft sensor itself is? Is it a constant clicking that follows a pattern or is it random? Is it at all tempatures or only after warming up? If it is the engine around where do you hear it. Left, right or front?

@@picklesgarage I can just feel the sensor clicking once engine is warm, kinda goes away when you rev it

@cherryflip1369 So the sensor is really two parts. The cap which you see me replace in the video and the shaft it's screwed into. There is a chance you will need to replace both the shaft and the cap which they do sell together. If there's gearing teeth that are worn it could be the reason for your clicking. Unfortunetly my video doesn't show replacing the shaft itself, the best way to do it is mark how the old one sits in the block and line up the new one exactly the same and then put on the cap. Hope this helps

@cherryflip1369 if you go on rockauto they call it a camshaft synchronizer for the cap and shaft. Would be worth replacing the whole thing they sell for about $50. If it's a noticeable clicking then that's likely the issue there. The only other reason I could see is if its clicking until operating temp it could be the oil level being too low and it taking time to lubricate the gears as needed. Or too thin of oil but if that's for sure not the issue then it has to be the gearing, I'd check for damage when replacing so you know.

@@picklesgarage how bad is it if teeth are worn out

@toshibajohnson6656 That might be more the battery, like it's under charged or bad connection. Some electronics can still work even with a faulty battery it just won't have enough power to start the car. Might be good to go thru the fuses, especially the one I show, as well but if it's all those issues all of the sudden I am leaning toward battery. The window however might just be the power cut off they have when the door is open so that is usually normal for that to not let you adjust while it's open.

@superjoint57 Unlikely this is really just in charge of indicating when to turn on and off the rear tail lights for the most part. Most likely that's going to be related to an ABS wheel speed sensor or an ABS control module sensor. There's also a steering angle sensor that commonly causes that. If you've replaced all of that first maybe this indicator brake switch is causing cascading issues but less likely.

Had brake light switch replaced b/c of no brake lights. Now I have brake lights & no cruise control! 🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️ BUT the ESP/BAP & Traction Control lights are off! 🤷🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️

@superjoint57 Huh, sounds like a gremlin, almost wonder if there a bad ground somewhere or chewed wires that might be sometimes working sometimes not. Might be fuses too?

Great tip, thanks for watching!

Excellent thanks for watching!

Releasing fuel pressure happens right before removing the fuel line? I’ve scrubbed through the video but I can’t find it again… does it matter?

@Jocelyn-b7s Yes, you will want to release pressure first. Helps so it doesn't spray at disconnect. If you have a rag handy it's never all that much just a bit safer.

@Jocelyn-b7s But you can also do it at any time once it's released it's fine if hours later you disconnect the line just as long as the release happens at some point before disconnect

@@picklesgarage Thank you!!

@@StaTaimani Sure thing, thanks for watching!

@@biscuitjams6187 Great tip, thanks for adding!

@aaronwagner4074 I had the same issue from the sounds of it. Any speed but often right around hitting operating temp. Often electronics stayed on just the engine would turn off. When my camshaft position sensor was bad the rpm would bobble but when engine would just shut off randomly it was 100% solved by replacing the crankshaft position sensor. Not sure if you were more looking for reassurance that's the only issue but realistically if it runs completely fine one second and there's no indication leading up and it just cuts off at any speed, then that's very likely the crankshaft position sensor. Not sure if you watched my video on it but I go over some tips, the most important being that you have to buy the mopar part. If you replaced it already and are still having issues that's likely why. I replaced mine with a midrange crankshaft position sensor, worked fine for maybe 3 weeks then back to shutting off and throwing codes. I put in the mopar brand part and my jeep has been running strong without issues(related to that) for nearly 4 years now as a daily driver. Hope this helps, thanks for watching.

@terrranhughes6643 the new one into the housing? Did it come with the cardboard cylinder? I used that to press in the spring and twist until it lines up. They do also sell specialty tools to make it easier as well if all else fails. Hope this helps, thanks for watching

@javieralvarez7454 I went thru partsgeek, a lot of them are similar I went with this www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1993/chevrolet/camaro/engine_electrical/distributor_cap.html?rp=distributor_cap_and_rotor_kit

Voids the wipes warranty haha. Nah actually it has some harsh cleaning agents to clean off metal corrosion. It's more an issue if you touch it then your eyes or something but just good to be safe. Thanks for watching!

@diuntrejohnson9417 Hey, so I think you are referring to the vacuum line in the back closest to the firewall right? So that connects back behind the throttle body on the intake manifold. If you are looking at the throttle body from the driverside fender it is at the bottom right like this ■. (The period is the connection point). You can also find the brake booster vacuum line and again looking from the driver side of the car it is to the immediate left. It's in-between the two sensors on the throttle body itself. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!

@HMV3-TIGER-FAN I saw an immediate improvement. I'll be honest I live somewhere hot and if you've seen some other videos of mine you'll know I don't have A/C so it has been sitting a little more than normal. But my issues were difficulty starting, popping, a sort of stumble at low speeds like it would jerk a little under hard acceleration and I haven't had any of those issues. I get the occasional comments here asking why you'd just get the cap and if you can cover the better part of a thousand dollars to get a whole new MSD opti and the recommended new water pump I would but the cap I did here resolved the issues I was having even with less testing just because it was effectively undrivable before anytime I jumped in. Hope this helps, thanks for watching.

@@mo2743 Sure thing, thanks for watching!

@rodom303 I agree in most cases if you have an older diff with a lot of miles but there are plenty of people that argue the opposite saying if you spray it too much you'll risk damage when you first start driving again and now there isn't oil where it needs to be similar to the logic of soaking lifters. In a perfect world maybe you'd spray then oil it. In my case it was a new to me vehicle that I didn't trust it had been done before but when I opened it it was all extremely fresh and recent so no risk of debris in there though I checked. I'd say it's a judgment call. But appreciate you adding this so people can decide and Thanks for watching.

@tomhall4266 I appreciate it, thanks for watching!

Hey, I show around the 26 minute mark the additional pack that comes with the opti. Should have everything you need outside of basic socket set for the rest of the removal. Thanks for watching

@@picklesgarage I was watching it at work initially

I ordered the 500 jegs msd kit with the opti, cap, coil, and ordered a (definitely ac delco) ign module, my car stalls when it warms up occasionally and I figure I'll just go ahead and beat around the bush and do it all, im gonna look into picking up a water pump for it since it's there, im not against not replacing it it's my car but since everybody says so I might

@aronsaleaf4726 Yeah, id say opti related, mine would pop, sputter and try to die until I updated. I definitely made the mistake of not replacing as much as I could when I was just doing my water pump. You'll be glad you did for sure.

@roselynvibez9090 That's possible, but that would only be if the thermostat had a different preset or for some reason it was damaged. I'm guessing what you are experiencing is the engine getting really hot really fast? So it seems like no fluid is flowing in? That might actually just be that you have a large air pocket in the system thats just sitting in the engine. Some cars have a more clever way to do this but you'll notice the cap to fill coolant is higher than the radiator. That's the highest point so starting with the car 100% cold and level take the cap off, fill to the top with radiator fluid and start the car. Let it run for a little while you should see bubbles and the fluid level will go down so keep filling as you go. Keep and eye on the temp but it should only take a few minutes to cycle the system. Make sure you stay within your own comfort zone, the real danger is pressure as it gets hot so with the cap off you can treat it about the same as boiling water on a stove. Shouldn't take long, few minutes and that should help your issue. If the level doesnt change and the temp shoots up you might have an issue with the termostat but they are a really basic device that rarely has issues out of the box if installed as shown. Hope this helps, thanks for watching.

Did you top off the coolant after changing the thermostat

@domalvarado448 Typically a bad ground or an inconsistent one will cause it to flicker on/off more often than just being dim. Dim should be more related to weak power source connection. If it's only one bulb then outside of a bad bulb itself I'd agree it's likely the socket. I'd still follow the wires as far as you can to make sure there no freying or corrosion at the sources while you are there but I think the socket is the safest bet. Most other issues like fuses would affect all of them.