Honda Valkyrie | Carburetor Assembly - Part 4 of 4
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- Part 4: Final carburetor assembly on my 1999 Honda Valkyrie! 😀 I pre-synchronize the carbs as well.
Click here to see the assembly - part 1 of the carbs: • Honda Valkyrie | Carbu...
Click here to see the assembly - part 2 of the carbs: • Honda Valkyrie | Carbu...
Click here to see the assembly - part 3 of the carbs: • Honda Valkyrie | Carbu...
Hi Tom. I wanted to followup on the issue I mentioned below. I solved it. One of the compression springs on the opposite bank of the #3 carb was in incorrectly and prevented it from closing. A quick change and it was fixed so I did the pre-synch and all's good. I really appreciate this series that you did and probably would have put the carbs back on the bike and not found the issue until I went to start it up. Your pre-synch step got me to look at everything and catch the issue beforehand!! Much appreciated....
Good riding.....
詳細又清晰的拍攝
So... I followed the series of videos to the T and installed carburetor set on bike. In trying (forever) to connect choke link cable, I noticed the rear support bracket was backwards. I laughed how I could screw that up! Then I reviewed the video and see your rear bracket is backwards. I'm glad I was able to reverse it without removing the carb set... everything was tightened.
Thank you for watching my videos! I hope they helped! If I remember correctly I was able to fix it like you did as well. I did not get any video of that.
Hi Tom. I watched quite a few videos before tackling this on my '97 Valkyrie 1500C, yours were the best for me. I re-did the carbs because I was always having trouble syncing all the carbs with Carb 3. I have a digital carb sync device. Your pre-synchronize test with the light showed me that the butterfly valve was not closed (bottomed out) on carb 3. I can't understand why it would even be open but it is, a lot. I obviously have to fix it although I would have put it back on the bike had you not shown me that test, so thanks for that. My question is how do I get the master carb (3) to close so I can adjust everything to it? I am guessing it has something to do with the bolt on the side of that carburetor. Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.
I don't get why you say turn the screw just enough to make the light disappear but then keep turning them several more times after it gone?
The idea was to have all butterfly valves to have the same tension. To achieve this I adjusted all of them in accordance to the reference carb which is the center right cylinder, #3. This butterfly is tight against the bore because of the return spring. I adjusted each one until the light disappeared and then continued turning the screw until I had the equivalent tension against the bore to mach what the spring did to the reference carb.
I hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching my videos!! 👏
I wondered that myself.
do you put a syn gauge on after you installed them or does that get you good enough?
Hi Tom
Your videos saved my Bacon, I took them apart completely to clean them while I was waiting for parts to arrive , well it too couple weeks , and totally forgot , how to ho together, your video was great help , thanks, couple questions, my carb #3 it does not bottoms completely how can I synchronize the rest of carbs? And my second question is I am De smog, it , so removed all unnecessary vacuum hoses and plugged necessary locations. My question is air joint and 3-way air joints is necessary, since there is no vacuum connection anymore? Thanks
Wow! I'm glad I could save your bacon!
Carb #3: Check throttle cables settings.
Check idle speed screw (throttle stop screw).
Check the throttle link bar going to carb #4.
3-way air joints: Do not plug. Very important for carb operation.
Air joint: I don't know which one, please be more specific.
Thank you for reply, I check the carb 3&4 to make sure the set up correctly, as far as air joint, the two smaller aluminum tubes that goes between carbs and to 2 three ways The air joints and one each side. I wasn’t going to block it since I de smog it , was wondering do I still need attached the rubber tubes to 3 way air joints or just let it be ? To me it should make any difference if hook up the tubes or not they will get air through ? I could be wrong! What do you think? Thank you
I don't think it will make a difference if you hook them up or not.
Hi Tom. Your 'light' sync technique is pretty cool. Where did you learn that?