Done that but it was the carburetor needle put a new one got out somehow it went in the engine third time oh got the third time it was meant to be take a Picture
In my experience as an aircraft mechanic of 18 years, unplugging and reconnecting electrical connectors often fixes high resistance circuits. This high resistance would get worse when hot. Unplugging and plugging connectors cleans corrosion off the electrical pins and restores proper continuity.
I have this issue a lot in my shop, the issue I’ve found is that once the plug wire heats up, the resistance in the plug wire gets so high that the plug cannot spark correctly. The plug wire always visually look fine, and will test fine until heat soaked. I’ve had coils do this aswell, they look visually good, test good, until heat soaked. Hope this helps!
First time I’ve watched you for a couple weeks and love the content and channel and how calm you are when stuff is bad and you don’t give up keep it going and hoping to get a dirt bike
Mikuni is your cause, the center jet block gasket usually cracks or expands with ethanol fuel. Take that apart and check it before doing any more jetting.
Yeah, 125's definitely like to be in the pipe. They can be boggy when they're not since it's not a whole lot of displacement to provide low end torque. On the CR and YZ 125's I've had, to fix bottom end bog, a big bore kit helps tremendously. My favorite is the Eric Gorr Racing 144cc big bore kit with high compression head. You'll need to run 100+ octane, preferably 110 race, but there is zero hesitation in the bottom end, great power throughout the RPM range with a really nice boost up top. It'll blow the doors off any 250F out there.
Would a 58 mm piston be a 144cc big bore. Also what main jet should I be running. I have a 460 main I believe and it likes to bog in lower gears I also run 40:1 on 93. The spark plug also is pretty black and has some carbon on it.
@@garrxt_8164 That's going to depend on your elevation and air temp. Higher the elevation the smaller the main jet due to air density. That also goes for air temp. Cooler temps require larger main jets, while hotter temps require smaller. Sounds like you are running rich though. Try dropping a jet size and/or moving the needle clip up one notch. Do one change at a time and test. If yours is a Gorr kit you can always give him a call. Eric is super helpful.
Great explanation on needle height setting. I bet 99.9% of ppl move it down for “rich” then up “Lean”. Brilliant vid My plug is really rich I’ll be moving mine the same as yours UP
Agree I ride a 125 and I'm 41 yrs old . ive loved them since my teen yrs. I also believe you should be able to putt around without it loading up if tuned correctly. And it all comes down to leaning out the needle if your jets are correct. 99% of people move the needle to rich or dont touch it at all.
@@drock5298 Hahahaha. I’m 43yrs old and just got myself a 350 Warrior for cheap. Bought the Boyz some Kayo atv’s last year and needed something cheap for myself just to keep up.
I used to have soft spots for Suzuki, Kawasaki & Honda 2-Stroke Race/Dirt Bikes. nowadays, I love them all. the best bike (factory freak) I ever had was an ‘85 CR80 (I quickly outgrew but still rode & kept it) that would beat new 250s & 125s (in early ‘90s) from Point A to Point B every time. I got my uncle’s former race bike running (‘78 YZ100) when K was 11yrs old & had a legit moto-x track behind our property to learn on. I still have my 1st two KX125s, 2 old Suzuki TS bikes (75cc & 185cc), an ‘89 RM250 (PoS), two old CR250s (‘88 & ‘04) & what will be the newest & nicest restored Yamaha RD350 (twin 2-stroke) waiting & ready to be put back together, after $4k worth of paint, parts & machining. I have a fraction of what Joe has in 2-strokes, so I do know that I’m not as bad as others. I love all bikes, but ripping a hot 2-stroke scratches a specific itch.
If the aftermarket pipe allows more exhaust flow, I would think you would need more intake. Why did you need to put smaller jets in it? Keep up the good work, I have bought a couple of non running bikes to fix after learning how to from watching your show.
I have 01 rm 250 with a Fmf fatty and Fmf powercore 2 silencer, Fmf specs say 158 rather than the 162 main and it runs crispier than when I had the 162 in. must be dark magic 2 smokers make Edit: I also keep the needle clip on the second position
@@Castillo250 Nice comment brother. I’d of thought the bikes 1998 - 2001 would run better on the E5 juice. I think a lot of it is correct oil/petrol mix, the right jet in the carb. Ain’t really much to them. I had an 89 RM 125. Went well, but me personally I thought the YZ125’s went a lot quicker ✌🏼
young 125 owners like to mess with the exhaust valve bolt and spring. i would set that first before adjusting jets and screws on the carb. that lag time before the power band kicks in is most likely the exhaust valve and spring are off. just a thought. btw your videos cause me to jump on marketplace looking for an old 125 :)
pretty sure its your pilot causing the low down issue, the staff your messing with alters the mid to top end range. id also mess with the air screw as it sounds like too much air to me so turn it down a tad and bring the idle down
I’ve had this issue, I wasn’t told to use a crank case sealer ! I had a buddy and we both did the mains, It was drawing air through the crank cases because they weren’t sealed 🤔
Sounds like a heat saturation problem or something that’s so weird! Would love to see another KDX 200 video sometime! They have really gone up in value recently
I know you can make a two-stroke run better by weaning out the fuel, but personally, I would like to have a little more fuel for the extra lubrication of the bike, or whatever motor you are running
Makuni carbs have issue with the jet block gasket jd jetting sells them for 10 or 20 bucks my 22 husky tc 125 had this issue right out of the box when I bought it brand new. It had no bottom end and lean bog so bad but rev like a mother once on the pipe. Once I swapped the jet block gasket bike pulled from bottom to top no issue. Might be worth a try for a few bucks. Love the channel !
Some of your problem is the way u drive. You lug the bike at low speed and u short shift, a great way to load the plug up on a 2 stroke. You drive it like it's a 4stroke. Let Chuck ride it, u would see difference. Also check out exhaust valve's for carbon build up, sometime's it's the kind of 2 stroke oil
typically when you have molex connectors the pins are a soft aluminum coated copper and as such on an offroad vehicle being exposed to moisture those connecters will oxidize so when you move them and wiggle them around it breaks up that surface oxidation and lowers circuit resistance I deal with it every day with boilers and such
I was really surprised that you replace the cases, I assume because of the J-B weld? That was a simple drill and tap process I've seen it done before. In my opinion the cases were still serviceable.
Check the power valve setting and get a brand new plug in when it’s warm already and do a 1-2-3 pull real quick cut it off and pull plug. It lookeds like it had a bit much timing on the electrode where it was burnt past the bend of electrode
Hmmm... interesting. I bought a brand new 2023 YZ85LW last November and it has a somewhat similar problem with the fact that on some rides it'll run completely fine and has great power and then on another day or potentially the same day (I never know when as I can't seem to identify a pattern to it) it will be very boggy and run like absolute crap. Since I bought it brand new and I've always taken very well care of all my bikes, it makes absolute zero sense to me. And its starting to get very frustrating. Whatever it is I've noticed that its effected by the spark plug, carburetor, and fuel. If I change out or clean one of those things, it will temporarily run very well. But its getting to where I have to work on it in some way or another after nearly every ride. I've rode only 4 strokes all my life until I got this bike, are 2 strokes supposed to be like this? Or what could be the problem?
Even though you say it’s a new plug. Check the porcelain insulator with a magnifying glass. I had a plug that ran great until it heated up. It was a new plug also. Drove me nuts. The insulator had a hair line crack. Ran great cold. Soon as it warmed up it ran like crap. Good luck.
@2vintage have exact bike 2001 rm 125 with fmf. Have stock sized jets like you do the 460 instead of 450. Carb completely ran through fresh gas, oil, plug rugs awesome and idles great. But in gear once you got 3/4 for full throttle it completely bogs out like it’s hitting a rev limiter. Any suggestions??
These suzuki had a problem with the stator breaking down when they got hot guarantee that is the problem. Saw a bit on doc wob talking about it. Cool channels
Both of my tensioner bolts were unmovable. So much so that i snapped both bolts. I had to take it in and my mechanic managed to extract/drill out the old bolts, put in threaded sleeves and install the new bolts I provided. It was expensive and he's so busy he had my bike over 3 weeks. And she still doesn't run! I'm going through the spark plug currently and will tackle the carb next 2004 rmz 250
Hey v2, could you do a video of how you get good deals on things or just any tips about it, also could you do a video showing basic tools and steps to perform a rebuild because like me and probably many others watching these videos love to do the stuff but we just need a head start to get going. Thanks✌️ and if there’s anyway, you could do a video like that put a whole list of tools in the description that would be sweet!
Your getting the bogs because the parts havent mated/seated fully yet. when alluminum or steele heats up it expands. so your top end was getting tighter causing the bogging.
When it comes to any carb engine you can check the same things over and over and still doesn't run how it should then out of nowhere it runs perfectly and I have found it is the tiniest of actions when working in the causes a big difference and the bike sounds amazing and alot better than before and sounds so much happier
The ignition on that bike fires 3 times every time the piston comes to top dead center if you don't run the correct spark plug NGK R6918B-8 the electrode will break off into the cylinder and then to the bottom destroying the motor I've owned several RM,s
Always have to check the wire connections,and just by unplugging and plugging back up could be enough to knock of the little corrosion that could have formed,use flashlight to look down into connectors
Bro the way you ride makes it sould like there are problems. Stop letting off and shifting so fast. Let the power band finish before you shift. You are shifting before end of power band.
Wondering if you still have that cr500 you picked up some months back we dont have to many forsale in wisconsin and im not to terribly far from you so id be interested in possibly buying if you still have it
How's the operation of the power valve in the exhaust port? That can cause headaches with tuning. Jetting turned out to be the culprit, apparently, sounds like it's screaming now! Great video, Joe!
Before I watch the entire video what about vapor locking . To me sounds like a fuel problem have you check the gas petcock to check the flow of gas. I just guessing here or check the exhaust at the silencer see if it's getting plugged up
When doing diag and checking ohms if the bike is running good cold but not hot you need to check the parts hot. You can use a heat gun to simulate the heat from a ride. Obviously don't cook them but you know. Keep up the great entertainment bro
Yeah, that's how we tested and discovered the pick up coil on my XR650r was failing, it would start cold and run but when you stopped it would not restart until it cooled off.
This reminds me of a snowmobile I had. Kept blowing up. When it got hot, idle would climb a bit. Found out I had an air leak (base gasket I believe). Also had an exhaust leak that blew back on head. Just thoughts
I think it sounded a lot better after your carb adjustments. When you first started the video it sounded choppy the whole time the carb adjustments and jetting fixed the issue.
@@leanneeaton2093too lean. You are burning all of the fuel too early in the stroke. This generates even more heat or EGT. Richer mixtures use the fuel to cool EGTs. Creating a more stable EGT at higher temps.
@@oldjarhead386 plug reading says I am rich...had it running well, put a higher compression head on it and gets hot and blubbers..complete new ignition system with 4 hours on it??
Its all in the carb. All in the tune. Thats something you have never been good at. Never seen a 2 stroke on this channel that ran great or was tuned correctly. No such thing as just naturally bogs because its a 125. Lol
@@blakebooth4164 wow you really refuted what I said. You destroyed my entire worldview and proved me wrong. It's almost like you made a coherent argument.
It’s a brave man that removes an “E” clip above grass….
Put a blanket on the ground.
Haha yeah I was nervous removing it
Done that but it was the carburetor needle put a new one got out somehow it went in the engine third time oh got the third time it was meant to be take a Picture
I Too like to live dangerously…..
Brave man indeed
In my experience as an aircraft mechanic of 18 years, unplugging and reconnecting electrical connectors often fixes high resistance circuits. This high resistance would get worse when hot. Unplugging and plugging connectors cleans corrosion off the electrical pins and restores proper continuity.
Avionics life, love doing that
Yea and I always use dielectric grease on all my connections.
My favorite sign off lol
I have this issue a lot in my shop, the issue I’ve found is that once the plug wire heats up, the resistance in the plug wire gets so high that the plug cannot spark correctly. The plug wire always visually look fine, and will test fine until heat soaked. I’ve had coils do this aswell, they look visually good, test good, until heat soaked. Hope this helps!
Can't tell you how many times a nut weld up helped me out with stuck bolts. Good vid man.
Ayyy back with the dirtbike vids keep it up👍
Instantly sounded crisper with the 450 main jet. Even before you set off.
Great videos! Love watching all your content and learning
First time I’ve watched you for a couple weeks and love the content and channel and how calm you are when stuff is bad and you don’t give up keep it going and hoping to get a dirt bike
You can never tire of that sound . Great job
Mikuni is your cause, the center jet block gasket usually cracks or expands with ethanol fuel. Take that apart and check it before doing any more jetting.
I'd put some anti-seize in that hole to help it next time. Nice work. Sounded great after that new jet.
Yeah, 125's definitely like to be in the pipe. They can be boggy when they're not since it's not a whole lot of displacement to provide low end torque. On the CR and YZ 125's I've had, to fix bottom end bog, a big bore kit helps tremendously. My favorite is the Eric Gorr Racing 144cc big bore kit with high compression head. You'll need to run 100+ octane, preferably 110 race, but there is zero hesitation in the bottom end, great power throughout the RPM range with a really nice boost up top. It'll blow the doors off any 250F out there.
Normally working 125 doesnt bog
Would a 58 mm piston be a 144cc big bore. Also what main jet should I be running. I have a 460 main I believe and it likes to bog in lower gears I also run 40:1 on 93.
The spark plug also is pretty black and has some carbon on it.
@@garrxt_8164 That's going to depend on your elevation and air temp. Higher the elevation the smaller the main jet due to air density. That also goes for air temp. Cooler temps require larger main jets, while hotter temps require smaller. Sounds like you are running rich though. Try dropping a jet size and/or moving the needle clip up one notch. Do one change at a time and test. If yours is a Gorr kit you can always give him a call. Eric is super helpful.
125 running right never bog issues with this bike my old cr would never bog and ring its neck😅
My yz250 has a big bore 😅😅
Great explanation on needle height setting. I bet 99.9% of ppl move it down for “rich” then up “Lean”. Brilliant vid My plug is really rich I’ll be moving mine the same as yours UP
Agree I ride a 125 and I'm 41 yrs old . ive loved them since my teen yrs. I also believe you should be able to putt around without it loading up if tuned correctly. And it all comes down to leaning out the needle if your jets are correct. 99% of people move the needle to rich or dont touch it at all.
@@drock5298 Hahahaha. I’m 43yrs old and just got myself a 350 Warrior for cheap. Bought the Boyz some Kayo atv’s last year and needed something cheap for myself just to keep up.
I used to have soft spots for Suzuki, Kawasaki & Honda 2-Stroke Race/Dirt Bikes. nowadays, I love them all. the best bike (factory freak) I ever had was an ‘85 CR80 (I quickly outgrew but still rode & kept it) that would beat new 250s & 125s (in early ‘90s) from Point A to Point B every time.
I got my uncle’s former race bike running (‘78 YZ100) when K was 11yrs old & had a legit moto-x track behind our property to learn on.
I still have my 1st two KX125s, 2 old Suzuki TS bikes (75cc & 185cc), an ‘89 RM250 (PoS), two old CR250s (‘88 & ‘04) & what will be the newest & nicest restored Yamaha RD350 (twin 2-stroke) waiting & ready to be put back together, after $4k worth of paint, parts & machining.
I have a fraction of what Joe has in 2-strokes, so I do know that I’m not as bad as others. I love all bikes, but ripping a hot 2-stroke scratches a specific itch.
If the aftermarket pipe allows more exhaust flow, I would think you would need more intake. Why did you need to put smaller jets in it? Keep up the good work, I have bought a couple of non running bikes to fix after learning how to from watching your show.
Especially if he’s using E10 fuel which at the same jetting runs 4-5% leaner.
@@oldjarhead386I recall him saying a while back that he runs ethanol free in all of his bikes.
I have 01 rm 250 with a Fmf fatty and Fmf powercore 2 silencer, Fmf specs say 158 rather than the 162 main and it runs crispier than when I had the 162 in. must be dark magic 2 smokers make
Edit: I also keep the needle clip on the second position
@@Castillo250
Nice comment brother. I’d of thought the bikes 1998 - 2001 would run better on the E5 juice.
I think a lot of it is correct oil/petrol mix, the right jet in the carb. Ain’t really much to them.
I had an 89 RM 125. Went well, but me personally I thought the YZ125’s went a lot quicker ✌🏼
I'm not sure if he was removing the factory main jet or not but most bike were jetted a bit fat for safety sake.
Had same issue, your coil heats up and begins to fail, cools of and works fine till it gets hot again.
It may be a slow tedious method but, you're going about the carb adjusting properly.👍🏼🏁
Of course plug readings are so important.
young 125 owners like to mess with the exhaust valve bolt and spring. i would set that first before adjusting jets and screws on the carb. that lag time before the power band kicks in is most likely the exhaust valve and spring are off. just a thought. btw your videos cause me to jump on marketplace looking for an old 125 :)
pretty sure its your pilot causing the low down issue, the staff your messing with alters the mid to top end range. id also mess with the air screw as it sounds like too much air to me so turn it down a tad and bring the idle down
I’ve had this issue,
I wasn’t told to use a crank case sealer !
I had a buddy and we both did the mains, It was drawing air through the crank cases because they weren’t sealed 🤔
Sounds like a heat saturation problem or something that’s so weird!
Would love to see another KDX 200 video sometime! They have really gone up in value recently
I wonder if you lossen the power valve spring if that would help with low rpm bog too.
I know you can make a two-stroke run better by weaning out the fuel, but personally, I would like to have a little more fuel for the extra lubrication of the bike, or whatever motor you are running
Makuni carbs have issue with the jet block gasket jd jetting sells them for 10 or 20 bucks my 22 husky tc 125 had this issue right out of the box when I bought it brand new. It had no bottom end and lean bog so bad but rev like a mother once on the pipe. Once I swapped the jet block gasket bike pulled from bottom to top no issue. Might be worth a try for a few bucks. Love the channel !
Some of your problem is the way u drive. You lug the bike at low speed and u short shift, a great way to load the plug up on a 2 stroke. You drive it like it's a 4stroke. Let Chuck ride it, u would see difference. Also check out exhaust valve's for carbon build up, sometime's it's the kind of 2 stroke oil
Can you or did you ever unbury that last cursed bike? Let’s see it get fixed again and sell it brother, your a legend you fix anything 🍀💪
23:22 To me it looks like the carb body is cracked right where the ‘I’ is in Made in Japan on the casting.
Sure does!
Great video series. Thanks for posting. Having somewhat similar issues with a 150 KTM. This should be very helpful.
ive had a similar problem with my rm125 it turned out to be a worn powervalve spring
These are fantastic bikes. You did a great job getting this machine going strong again!
You finally beat it. Good job, Sir💪
The bike looks awesome! It’s still no Honda. Your videos are awesome I learn a lot from them!
Bravo, you are getting closer. Missing in the vid with Bear Kreek Boys was your brother Chuck/Charlie, flip flop wearing wheely popping
That beep from the multimeter killedddd my earsssss
I love the explanation with the needle position! More explanations please 👍🏼👍🏼
typically when you have molex connectors the pins are a soft aluminum coated copper and as such on an offroad vehicle being exposed to moisture those connecters will oxidize so when you move them and wiggle them around it breaks up that surface oxidation and lowers circuit resistance I deal with it every day with boilers and such
Love the video keep them coming ❤
I was really surprised that you replace the cases, I assume because of the J-B weld? That was a simple drill and tap process I've seen it done before. In my opinion the cases were still serviceable.
ive had wire grounding out on fly wheel when rev the bike up it suck wire into things and it gound out
That 199 replica looks sick , great job
It flew, Joe. Perfect!
Check the power valve setting and get a brand new plug in when it’s warm already and do a 1-2-3 pull real quick cut it off and pull plug. It lookeds like it had a bit much timing on the electrode where it was burnt past the bend of electrode
Is the cooling ok? Definitely worth a good look at, yes the lerfect sparkplug colour indicates temperature is ok but we are clutching at straws here!
You have to be very active on the gear box to keep the 125s in the power band.
Since you work on bikes a quality stripped bolt kit is 100% worth its weight in gold
Yay 2 vintage! YOur vids rock!
Jetting is off could be the needle! Or the float it is bogging off idle so it’s gotta be jetting
Love this beaut Joe,u kild this build brother!👊👍🦾🦾🦾
Nice bike, good job getting it running. Always a learning moment
Gotta love that sweet 2 Stroke symphony 😊
Hey, where did you get that cool lever bike stand? Or did you make it? I'd like one.
Joe great video. You need to try to find you a 500 2stroke? Don't worry I got a lot of broken bones from the one I had. LOL
I've just got a cr 250 2001 barn find proper mint 👌
Awesome! Can't beat the cr250s
Everything check’s out Cold…..You need to heat saturate those components.
Hmmm... interesting. I bought a brand new 2023 YZ85LW last November and it has a somewhat similar problem with the fact that on some rides it'll run completely fine and has great power and then on another day or potentially the same day (I never know when as I can't seem to identify a pattern to it) it will be very boggy and run like absolute crap. Since I bought it brand new and I've always taken very well care of all my bikes, it makes absolute zero sense to me. And its starting to get very frustrating. Whatever it is I've noticed that its effected by the spark plug, carburetor, and fuel. If I change out or clean one of those things, it will temporarily run very well. But its getting to where I have to work on it in some way or another after nearly every ride. I've rode only 4 strokes all my life until I got this bike, are 2 strokes supposed to be like this? Or what could be the problem?
On my two strokes, I put in a new plug every day. They are really hard on them. I seem to get one good day per plug. Long rides, carry a spare !
I always remove my swing arm adjuster bolts and put antisieze compound on them to avoid those bolts from seizing.
Would love to see you ride and enjoy your bikes more, maybe some trails in your area.
You can straighten that rad out easy…loads of TH-cam vids on it.Mine was like a pretzel…got it totally back in shape.
Even though you say it’s a new plug. Check the porcelain insulator with a magnifying glass. I had a plug that ran great until it heated up. It was a new plug also. Drove me nuts. The insulator had a hair line crack. Ran great cold. Soon as it warmed up it ran like crap. Good luck.
Bike looking mint sounds so good n was absolutely ripping that low rev bog is on most 125's
@2vintage have exact bike 2001 rm 125 with fmf. Have stock sized jets like you do the 460 instead of 450. Carb completely ran through fresh gas, oil, plug rugs awesome and idles great. But in gear once you got 3/4 for full throttle it completely bogs out like it’s hitting a rev limiter. Any suggestions??
These suzuki had a problem with the stator breaking down when they got hot guarantee that is the problem. Saw a bit on doc wob talking about it. Cool channels
Both of my tensioner bolts were unmovable. So much so that i snapped both bolts. I had to take it in and my mechanic managed to extract/drill out the old bolts, put in threaded sleeves and install the new bolts I provided. It was expensive and he's so busy he had my bike over 3 weeks. And she still doesn't run! I'm going through the spark plug currently and will tackle the carb next 2004 rmz 250
The sparkplug boot has a resistor in it some time it will test good until it heat's up you should change it out
It almost sounds like the pilot is too rich when you are riding and accelerating. Once it is on the main it clears right up.
Congratulations good job, as always
could also be bad crank seals. Or bad pickup coil. Both can cause intermittent issues when hot
Hey v2, could you do a video of how you get good deals on things or just any tips about it, also could you do a video showing basic tools and steps to perform a rebuild because like me and probably many others watching these videos love to do the stuff but we just need a head start to get going. Thanks✌️ and if there’s anyway, you could do a video like that put a whole list of tools in the description that would be sweet!
I love Ziggys Suzuki’s or one of my favorite dirt bikes the 125 looks amazing. Love the awesome Contant keep it coming.
Your getting the bogs because the parts havent mated/seated fully yet. when alluminum or steele heats up it expands. so your top end was getting tighter causing the bogging.
When it comes to any carb engine you can check the same things over and over and still doesn't run how it should then out of nowhere it runs perfectly and I have found it is the tiniest of actions when working in the causes a big difference and the bike sounds amazing and alot better than before and sounds so much happier
My XR600 did something very similar and it turned out to be a faulty spark pickup it would only happen when it was warm
The ignition on that bike fires 3 times every time the piston comes to top dead center if you don't run the correct spark plug NGK R6918B-8 the electrode will break off into the cylinder and then to the bottom destroying the motor I've owned several RM,s
steel to aluminum put anti seize on chain tensioner bolts
Sounds good on high rpm as for low rpm sounds like it's holding back
Always have to check the wire connections,and just by unplugging and plugging back up could be enough to knock of the little corrosion that could have formed,use flashlight to look down into connectors
Bro the way you ride makes it sould like there are problems. Stop letting off and shifting so fast. Let the power band finish before you shift. You are shifting before end of power band.
Wondering if you still have that cr500 you picked up some months back we dont have to many forsale in wisconsin and im not to terribly far from you so id be interested in possibly buying if you still have it
Joe, good resolve. She needs to be rev’d high.
How's the operation of the power valve in the exhaust port? That can cause headaches with tuning. Jetting turned out to be the culprit, apparently, sounds like it's screaming now!
Great video, Joe!
I clean an inspected the exhaust valves before rebuild. They were super smooth.
I really like this bike color scheme.
You might check the reeds. If they're worn or they can effect low end throttle response.
Before I watch the entire video what about vapor locking . To me sounds like a fuel problem have you check the gas petcock to check the flow of gas. I just guessing here or check the exhaust at the silencer see if it's getting plugged up
That main jet changed sounds way better 👍
When doing diag and checking ohms if the bike is running good cold but not hot you need to check the parts hot. You can use a heat gun to simulate the heat from a ride. Obviously don't cook them but you know. Keep up the great entertainment bro
Yeah, that's how we tested and discovered the pick up coil on my XR650r was failing, it would start cold and run but when you stopped it would not restart until it cooled off.
43:20 never thought to use an impact😆
Glad to see you are back, safely, on dry land. Your adventures in water craft is seriously suspect. 🙂
Many a 2 stroke with an air leak in the cases or the crankshaft seal have driven owners crazy.
It wouldn’t hurt to check the seal in between the intake boot and the air box that something that gets overlooked a lot of times
Use a laser thermometer to check the cylinder temp when it starts to act up.
This reminds me of a snowmobile I had. Kept blowing up. When it got hot, idle would climb a bit. Found out I had an air leak (base gasket I believe). Also had an exhaust leak that blew back on head.
Just thoughts
Your bike sounded better as the video went on though
I think it sounded a lot better after your carb adjustments. When you first started the video it sounded choppy the whole time the carb adjustments and jetting fixed the issue.
Have a 2002 rm250 that does same exact thing when it’s running it’s good but as soon as it get hot it will shut off and not start
I have the same problem with my 1977...the hotter it gets, the worse it runs...
Air mixture
@@leanneeaton2093too lean. You are burning all of the fuel too early in the stroke. This generates even more heat or EGT. Richer mixtures use the fuel to cool EGTs. Creating a more stable EGT at higher temps.
@@oldjarhead386 plug reading says I am rich...had it running well, put a higher compression head on it and gets hot and blubbers..complete new ignition system with 4 hours on it??
I had the same problem with my scrambler I bought every electric part I could for changed them one at a time found out it was the regular went bad
Take your heat gun and gradually heat up your coil etc while checking values.
I don't know, but I think the only problem I see is that you need a lot more land, about at least a 5 mile long racing circle of land
Hotter spark plug. Solved my issue with my cr
Put antiseize on those bolts to the chain tensioners before you install them and you shouldn’t ever have that problem again.
2 stroke are the best sound ever when on it love that sweet cherry pie man !!! Sweet bike !! 🍒😁😁
Its all in the carb. All in the tune. Thats something you have never been good at. Never seen a 2 stroke on this channel that ran great or was tuned correctly. No such thing as just naturally bogs because its a 125. Lol
Gosh it’s almost like he isn’t perfect, that’s crazy
@@blakebooth4164 wow you really refuted what I said. You destroyed my entire worldview and proved me wrong. It's almost like you made a coherent argument.
@@owensbama1923Almost. 🤣