Awesome wiring work. I'm nearing this stage. Finally painted my interior/ firewall with single stage... per your recommendation. Came out great. Now I'm working on rebuilding stock ac box
This is the most detailed and inspiring electric video I've seen on a square body! Doing all of this on my 84 RIGHT NOW. Moving the battery, everything you're doing. How did you mount those relays behind the firewall without drilling holes in your nice new firewall? Guys like you are why they call it TH-cam U. Thank you for putting in the work to make a video like this.
Thanks DJ. I did have to drill holes to hold the relays in place but they came through high up in the vent/cowl panel area so they aren’t seen. I would probably do it different next time though. Good luck with your 84. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!
A very nice job again with the video, lighting and subject. The resistor to the alternator is 460 ohms and acts as a current limiting device that same as the "GEN" light or "BAT" light on the dash. Since most have volt meter, that bulb act as a field wire to turn on the alternator. The older "SI" had one regulator to use, the newer "CS" alt have 28. It still gets battery voltage but with the current limited to 0.25 amp. GM actually use the bulb with a 460 ohm resistor in parallel on the dash, in case the bulb went bad. GM uses the same color wire for certain functions for decades, but in 1986, began to display each circuit in "Cell" by themselves. Also unless vehicle speed comes from GPS, there is a 40 tooth reluctor that passes a magnetic pickup. The two wires are twisted (With a drill) 9 times per foot and go into the PCM VSS Hi & Lo terminals. To protect the signals (A/C) at lower speeds, they grounded a wire and wrap it with the harness to the PCM and ground it again. It is shielding from RFI. Using shrink tubing is the greatest, but if you have to use tape, dab a bit of black weatherstrip adhesive on the tag end & it won't come apart. Home improvement stores sell dielectric grease with the epoxy in automotive. It is way cheaper there. I have 2 huge tubes I bought at a Mercury dealer. Just like you say on your kitty hair "I put that %i#t on everything!" The project is looking very good. I suggest putting a large cable on the end housing of the alternator as the negative diodes create (-) negative here, but paint, powder coat can create resistance their as well. PS; I forgot to remind you that the PCM can provide ground to cooling fan (s) by using a 30-40 amp relay unused at the connector. Just tell the programmer on & off temps. Have a good week and I will be watching. I think I got the bell set correctly! DK
Good info. Very informative. This fan set up came with the two 30A relays and is wired to the pcm like you said. The terminator pcm makes everything easy to control. I am going with GPS speedo because I read somewhere of a comparability issue somewhere along the line, maybe with the type of Guage I was looking at so…bypassed the problem. Maybe we will see if this all actually works as planned shortly, lol. Thanks as always!
Yeah this is my favorite wood chisel/pry bar/scraper/bottle opener/screwdriver/hammer/cold chisel/toothpick/fork-spoon-knife/spider killer/prop rod/pointer that I have in my tool box, lol. Thanks for watching!
I like to read the comments you make during the video, so I turn on the "Ai Vocal interpretation" since 38+ years in the shop, my hearing is not what used to be. But is or can be funny as it tries to readout, like @15:05 you are installing the Maxi-Fuse terminals for the block. It simply said "Maxi Fuse - Music". Now I know what music to play when working with Maxi-Fuses! Cool. I just want "Ai" driving my truck as the sign on the road says "Wrights Lake" and the vehicle takes turn into the lake! Not for me. But I digress! Have a merry Christmas and happy new year Jim. It will different having an empty chair if "Granny" was over. God bless! DK, Omaha.
i think you did a great job the only thing i seen that i would be scared of is where that battery is , personally i would put some kind of rubber or plastic panel above that battery
I was concerned with the top post making contact with the bottom of the floor but there is a good bit of room there. Another option would be to mount something like an optima battery sideways.
You sparked a question when you mentioned you were going to make a covering for those 3 rectangular shaped holes that the cowl covers, in that water goes down through the cowl covering and into those 3 rectangular opening. I am sure GM had a passage way for the water to exit. If that exit is plugged off with leaves and dirt, would that lead to rust where the floor meets the kick panel? I have big time rust in that area on both sides. As usual, you have made me more aware of so many rabbit trails on this old truck. Thanks so much for your channel.
Yes absolutely. I believe there is a screened plastic panel behind the metal cowl panel but I’m sure over time stuff makes it through. There is a passageway from the cowl panel up top, around the side of the cab, and down to the floor area of the kick panel. On the passenger side there is a large vent that gets it air from this passageway. There is an opening at the very bottom of this passageway (maybe 1/2” x 2”) that lets the water out. A few leaves and some debris will easily clog it up. Most likely it is the source of most rust in that area.
Say brother,awesome video and details! Have you ever wired up a remote start to one of your swaps. I’m wanting to wire up a compustar 4900S to my 76 c10. I’ve already got my swap in with a stand alone harness and will be redoing the whole chassis wiring soon. A video would be awesome
Jim, you are a wealth of knowledge sir. Is there a way to access that area we are talking about? I would assume I would need to remove the fenders to start with, but where to go from there?
Yes the fender would have to come off and probably the door for good accesss. The panel is of course welded on. Its the outer panel of the cab directly behind the fender. There are some replacement panels available depending on the model truck you have. All I saw on Auto Metal Direct for the squarebody was a lower half piece which may be all you need if its rusted out. I would get the replacement panel in hand before starting to remove the old one. That should help you decide where to section it in if that's what it needs.
Are c10’s wired differently at the bulk head?! Everyone on TH-cam has the same wiring you do. My 12v wires only put out .4v to my accessories. But when I make B4 my hot all my accessories and A1 and B2 wire get 12v output. But if I wire it like everyone else says I get nothing. Mine is a 85 v6 short bed.
@@ceaserthemighty yes. The TerminatorX has the ELECTRONIC CONTOL UNIT (ECU) and wiring necessary to run an LS engine or other electronically controlled engine. This one was based on a 1999 LM7 (5.3 truck engine) so it was wired for a 24x reluctor wheel and multec injectors I think. You just have to match the terminator up to what you are planning on running. The TerminatorX Max will also give you what you need to control an electronically controlled transmission if you need it.
@@StoutCustom fantastic! Hope you put up footage of the process and end result! Thanks for always replying sir. Many of us appreciate it more than you know.
Say brother I, changed out my ignition switch and am having trouble getting it adjusted properly so all key functions work, I can have my assesory working or the cranking, of course I have it cranking but if you have any tips or tricks to properly adjust it I would appreciate it
@@martinolivas319 I’m not aware of any adjustment on the switch itself or anywhere for that matter. That doesn’t mean it doesn’t exist though. I would compare the old and new switch to make sure they look, operate, and are exactly the same. Might try a second switch from a different manufacturer if the switch is all you changed. Other than that the part the switch goes into may be different or defective. Hope you can figure it out. Very frustrating I’m sure. Thanks for watching!
@@adolfotrujillo9658 if you are talking about a switch to keep someone from stealing the truck there are several places that you can do that but you probably need a local shop to do it. You can cut power to the fuel pump if it’s electric or the coil if it has one or the ignition or….wherever but it depends on your set up so check with someone that can look it over. Thanks for watching!
I have a 73 C-10, I had signals working on it till it caught on fire. I've checked all the wires I don't see anything burnt but now if I hit my brakes the indicator light up for the signals But the signals don't work. Do have any suggestions?? Any one??
@@davidwellman7080 if things are catching fire, you need to take it to a shop and get some help. I tied my turn signals for my new dash into the wrong spot and had the same thing happen. The signals would light up when I hit the brakes. I think I had to tie into the brake wires after they had passed through all the relays n such to fix it. Otherwise it would feed a ground through the system for the brake wires. Anyway, get a skilled person to look at it before the whole truck burns to the ground. Good luck and thanks for watching!
There's a wire on the driver side of my block on the fire wall I just my truck off and that wire started smoking and I can't find anything about but it goes from the firewall down behind the block
Disconnect the battery until you can figure it out. Have to trace it and see where it goes and see where the short is. It’s very possible to catch fire and burn to the ground. May need to get it to a professional shop to troubleshoot.
That's a good price. I'm working on something similar. Unfortunately I got to sell it when I'm finished. I've seen them go as high as $50 k. But $35k still a good price
Was burnt out on body work for a while after the C10 show truck project so decided to concentrate on getting it running. Once I hear it run it should motivate me to finish the bodywork. 👍
wiring... the fun and frustrating 😆. I'm definitly no wiring expert or anyting but I do enjoy the challenge. whis is why I'll probably pay someone smarter than me to do the initial wiring on my C10
I think the hard part is trying to keep it neat. The terminator has fairly easy to follow instructions and lots of how tos on the internet. The factory wiring is what’s a little difficult to decipher.
@TCollier It requires patience for sure, but a game plan of major parts, location and like Mr. Jim Stout says, keep it neat. If you start with a bulb test light, a $50+ digital multi meter, tape, harness cover and equipment to solder. Notice that Mr. Stout used the split convoluted harness cover but the woven cloth, this is easy, safe and clean. Products are also rated by air temps they are exposed to. Solder crimped connectors, shrink tube over them, home improvement stores sell dielectric grease cheap $5. If you go to salvage yards, behind the glove box in Buick LeSabers, Park Ave (90's era) but you will find a fuse relay block for 12 or each. Each fuse protects the relay control circuit. If "LS" engine, the programmer can turn on two quad-drivers that supply "Ground" to fan relay coils. Set point on & off can be what you want. In the audio world, look at a website "KnuKoncepts" as they have battery terminals that fit, provide 4-5 connections for power & ground. If you caught Mr. Stout's comment; redundant grounds! (Battery- to frame, engine, cab, bed and I suggest ground from alternators end housing to block, battery as this is where (-) comes from. Star washers are flat washers with spurs, placed on last after cable/wire eyelets that dig thru paint, powder coat, grease but use the dielectric grease under, around & top of bolt on terminals. Use a small dab inside plastic connectors for terminals to protect them for moisture. The bulk-head connector has 4 sections, closest to the fender is lights, engine side is engine, top is cruise control and long 4-5 wire ones is wiper. Use long cheap zip ties to form your harness, one completed, sacrifice the as you install the harness cover. Companies like "WayTek", Dell City and others have good terminals, but I get GM harness wire & connectors at the bone yard for cheap. Use a masking tape, write the device it goes to and feed it the direction thru loose zip ties. A small flat blade pocket screwdriver & small straight pick work great for removing wires from connectors as I made one from the thin spring steel out of old school wiper blades. Bend a circle handle and grind the other end narrow. I have entire Kent-Moore kit of tools to remove terminals, but use 2-3 only all of the time. Crumpets have come down in price but get ones that roll the center core crimp over into the it's sister. Tip; Start tape when ready on wire bundle, slide open split over tape, make your wraps and dab black weatherstrip adhesive onto the tag end, press into place and let it dry. It will never unravel. I am doing an 81 El Co, almost complete. Adding a hidden "No Crank Switch is easy. Get a 40 amp relay with connector. Use 30 & 87 to bread PPL start wire. Use HVAC fan switch High or Cruise Set button. Cruise may provide ground or B+ when pushed as High Fan maybe B+ or continuity between hi and other 3 wires. Push set with left hand finger while cranking (My favorite) or flip blower to HI then crank. Once started, the relay does not effect either function as no cranking is going on. Plus if the engine is running, you can't accidentally re-engage starter again. The "LS" has that feature inside the PCM software. If RPM is above 400, cranking is denied! Best of luck! DK, ASE master since 78, retired.
@@tcollier4017 I was incorrect in naming the fire wall connector locations. Mr. Stout has "Text" on screen providing information on each connector. I am not totally familiar with the "Square Body C10" as the call it. The connector is held in place on the engine side with a center 10mm bolt. It is usually captured on the back and won't fall. The group of connectors are held together with a large plastic "C" shaped clip. If spread by thumbs or a pocket screwdriver, work it to & bottom toward the engine. It will release all of the connectors. The first one next to the fender goes back to the bed. The next one is lights. Either electrical or painting, they both require equipment, knowledge and practice with and understanding of how it works. Jim Stout covers every issue needed including his paint paddle or cut yard stick. Make sure to ease on edge for the leading edge for good contact. Hand placement will become muscle memory or second nature and becomes obvious when blocking over a guide coat. As for electrical, just watch videos and if hard to understand, go to another as some are much better teachers. At least the wire color is consistent on GM's. Red=B+, ORN=Switched, WHT, BRN & YEL are usually lights. Having a wiring diagram or schematic in a factory book would be great, but those are long gone! Dealerships sold them off on eBay as well as people who bought them to sell for profit. You best bet, depending on the year, but find an "On-Line Forum" and join them. They always have an electrical section. If lucky, someone may post a colored schematic for your truck. Even as new as 86, GM still published a fold out in the back of the OEM service manual. Head light on the left, engine, firewall, dash, seats & doors, fuel pump, tail light, license plate bulb and trailer hitch. Connectors are numbered, circuit number, color & wire size in metric cross section. Find a chart you can print and a 3 ring note book, the a box of heavy plastic page protectors. Major changes to electrical are best handled by drawings & photos. Even if drawings are in crayon! Lol. DK, ASE master tech. Retired
Im having trouble with my 87 the fuses keep burning for the idle and T/L CTSY the thing about it is i have to have them connected together by a wire for the truck to turn on the truck so if they arent connect then i wont hear the fuel pump go off or anything i dont get it could it be a bad wire somewhere thats burning them or is it something else has anyone ever had this problem before
Really hard to say without looking at it and tracing wires but it sound like too many wires pulling power on one fuse. Need to trace the wires and give individual components their own circuit and fuse. Look for damage to the wires as you trace
@@StoutCustom so its possible that i could have 1 or too many wires connected into one component like one can be going one way and the other another way
@@jessiejohnson4768 it was my personal truck so I didn’t keep up with it. I’m sure the cost would vary depending on labor rate and materials used but I’ve heard of guys that do really nice work charging around $2k for a wiring job. Like I said it’s going to vary though. Thanks for watching!
I wired to a Holley terminator x so the wires I identified are all I needed. It takes some searching but you should be able to find info by googling c10 bulkhead pin out. If I can find the time I will try to go over the wiring in more detail in a future video. Thanks for watching!
![[TH] 2024 PMGC League | Survival Stage วันที่ 1 | PUBG MOBILE Global Championship](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FVFT-PFwU80/mqdefault.jpg)
at 7:00 I like how mentioned what color wire from the bulk head went... this will help me in faster way.
Good deal. Good luck on your project and thanks for watching!
Awesome wiring work. I'm nearing this stage. Finally painted my interior/ firewall with single stage... per your recommendation. Came out great. Now I'm working on rebuilding stock ac box
Good deal! Im glad it turned out great for you. Sounds like you are moving along pretty well too.
This is the most detailed and inspiring electric video I've seen on a square body! Doing all of this on my 84 RIGHT NOW. Moving the battery, everything you're doing. How did you mount those relays behind the firewall without drilling holes in your nice new firewall? Guys like you are why they call it TH-cam U. Thank you for putting in the work to make a video like this.
Thanks DJ. I did have to drill holes to hold the relays in place but they came through high up in the vent/cowl panel area so they aren’t seen. I would probably do it different next time though. Good luck with your 84. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!
Glad to see you moving along on the project. Nice work as usual.
Just trying to keep moving ahead. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing👍looking good Sir
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!
A very nice job again with the video, lighting and subject. The resistor to the alternator is 460 ohms and acts as a current limiting device that same as the "GEN" light or "BAT" light on the dash. Since most have volt meter, that bulb act as a field wire to turn on the alternator. The older "SI" had one regulator to use, the newer "CS" alt have 28. It still gets battery voltage but with the current limited to 0.25 amp. GM actually use the bulb with a 460 ohm resistor in parallel on the dash, in case the bulb went bad.
GM uses the same color wire for certain functions for decades, but in 1986, began to display each circuit in "Cell" by themselves.
Also unless vehicle speed comes from GPS, there is a 40 tooth reluctor that passes a magnetic pickup. The two wires are twisted (With a drill) 9 times per foot and go into the PCM VSS Hi & Lo terminals. To protect the signals (A/C) at lower speeds, they grounded a wire and wrap it with the harness to the PCM and ground it again. It is shielding from RFI. Using shrink tubing is the greatest, but if you have to use tape, dab a bit of black weatherstrip adhesive on the tag end & it won't come apart. Home improvement stores sell dielectric grease with the epoxy in automotive. It is way cheaper there. I have 2 huge tubes I bought at a Mercury dealer. Just like you say on your kitty hair "I put that %i#t on everything!"
The project is looking very good. I suggest putting a large cable on the end housing of the alternator as the negative diodes create (-) negative here, but paint, powder coat can create resistance their as well.
PS; I forgot to remind you that the PCM can provide ground to cooling fan (s) by using a 30-40 amp relay unused at the connector. Just tell the programmer on & off temps.
Have a good week and I will be watching. I think I got the bell set correctly! DK
Good info. Very informative. This fan set up came with the two 30A relays and is wired to the pcm like you said. The terminator pcm makes everything easy to control. I am going with GPS speedo because I read somewhere of a comparability issue somewhere along the line, maybe with the type of Guage I was looking at so…bypassed the problem. Maybe we will see if this all actually works as planned shortly, lol. Thanks as always!
Looking Good! Getting closer to finishing.
Getting there!
For all those people that complain about using a flat blade screwdriver as a prybar, Stout Custom says hold my beer and uses a wood chisel.
Yeah this is my favorite wood chisel/pry bar/scraper/bottle opener/screwdriver/hammer/cold chisel/toothpick/fork-spoon-knife/spider killer/prop rod/pointer that I have in my tool box, lol. Thanks for watching!
@@StoutCustom That is funny right there, I don't care who you are!
I like to read the comments you make during the video, so I turn on the "Ai Vocal interpretation" since 38+ years in the shop, my hearing is not what used to be. But is or can be funny as it tries to readout, like @15:05 you are installing the Maxi-Fuse terminals for the block. It simply said "Maxi Fuse - Music". Now I know what music to play when working with Maxi-Fuses! Cool. I just want "Ai" driving my truck as the sign on the road says "Wrights Lake" and the vehicle takes turn into the lake! Not for me. But I digress!
Have a merry Christmas and happy new year Jim. It will different having an empty chair if "Granny" was over. God bless! DK, Omaha.
Now I’ve got to try the Ai thing to see how it works, lol. Merry Christmas to you and a happy new year as well my friend.
i think you did a great job the only thing i seen that i would be scared of is where that battery is , personally i would put some kind of rubber or plastic panel above that battery
I was concerned with the top post making contact with the bottom of the floor but there is a good bit of room there. Another option would be to mount something like an optima battery sideways.
You sparked a question when you mentioned you were going to make a covering for those 3 rectangular shaped holes that the cowl covers, in that water goes down through the cowl covering and into those 3 rectangular opening. I am sure GM had a passage way for the water to exit. If that exit is plugged off with leaves and dirt, would that lead to rust where the floor meets the kick panel?
I have big time rust in that area on both sides.
As usual, you have made me more aware of so many rabbit trails on this old truck.
Thanks so much for your channel.
Yes absolutely. I believe there is a screened plastic panel behind the metal cowl panel but I’m sure over time stuff makes it through. There is a passageway from the cowl panel up top, around the side of the cab, and down to the floor area of the kick panel. On the passenger side there is a large vent that gets it air from this passageway. There is an opening at the very bottom of this passageway (maybe 1/2” x 2”) that lets the water out. A few leaves and some debris will easily clog it up. Most likely it is the source of most rust in that area.
Say brother,awesome video and details! Have you ever wired up a remote start to one of your swaps. I’m wanting to wire up a compustar 4900S to my 76 c10. I’ve already got my swap in with a stand alone harness and will be redoing the whole chassis wiring soon. A video would be awesome
I hadn’t even thought about remote start but that’s a good idea. Should be pretty straight foreword. Hmmmm, interesting. Thanks for watching!
Jim, you are a wealth of knowledge sir.
Is there a way to access that area we are talking about? I would assume I would need to remove the fenders to start with, but where to go from there?
Yes the fender would have to come off and probably the door for good accesss. The panel is of course welded on. Its the outer panel of the cab directly behind the fender. There are some replacement panels available depending on the model truck you have. All I saw on Auto Metal Direct for the squarebody was a lower half piece which may be all you need if its rusted out. I would get the replacement panel in hand before starting to remove the old one. That should help you decide where to section it in if that's what it needs.
Are c10’s wired differently at the bulk head?! Everyone on TH-cam has the same wiring you do.
My 12v wires only put out .4v to my accessories.
But when I make B4 my hot all my accessories and A1 and B2 wire get 12v output.
But if I wire it like everyone else says I get nothing.
Mine is a 85 v6 short bed.
Hey good stuff mannnnnnn so weld a pc of sheet metal plate in tht vent hold to keep the 💧water out the cab
I'm going to screw them in most likely so I can remove them if I need to.
Awesome work. Did you replace the wiring for the engine harness?
Yes for the engine. Used a Holley TerminatorX Used the factory harness for the lights and turn signals
@@StoutCustom that Holley came with the wiring?
@@ceaserthemighty yes. The TerminatorX has the ELECTRONIC CONTOL UNIT (ECU) and wiring necessary to run an LS engine or other electronically controlled engine. This one was based on a 1999 LM7 (5.3 truck engine) so it was wired for a 24x reluctor wheel and multec injectors I think. You just have to match the terminator up to what you are planning on running. The TerminatorX Max will also give you what you need to control an electronically controlled transmission if you need it.
@@StoutCustom thanks man!
On the starter maybe the old Style metal tube
👍
NEW SUBSCRIBER!!!!!!!!
Welcome!!
Thank I will looking to install on ground cable for ignition relay , ignition is electric ,
👍
Did you ever make the covers for the cowl area you mentioned at 18:15? Definitely wanna do that. You could sell those.
I started them but never finished. Hope to make my way back to it when I start buttoning things up on the final go round.
@@StoutCustom fantastic! Hope you put up footage of the process and end result! Thanks for always replying sir. Many of us appreciate it more than you know.
Say brother I, changed out my ignition switch and am having trouble getting it adjusted properly so all key functions work, I can have my assesory working or the cranking, of course I have it cranking but if you have any tips or tricks to properly adjust it I would appreciate it
@@martinolivas319 I’m not aware of any adjustment on the switch itself or anywhere for that matter. That doesn’t mean it doesn’t exist though. I would compare the old and new switch to make sure they look, operate, and are exactly the same. Might try a second switch from a different manufacturer if the switch is all you changed. Other than that the part the switch goes into may be different or defective. Hope you can figure it out. Very frustrating I’m sure. Thanks for watching!
Thank you
To install a kill switch what wire , where you recommend
@@adolfotrujillo9658 if you are talking about a switch to keep someone from stealing the truck there are several places that you can do that but you probably need a local shop to do it. You can cut power to the fuel pump if it’s electric or the coil if it has one or the ignition or….wherever but it depends on your set up so check with someone that can look it over. Thanks for watching!
👍
Thanks for watching!
I have a 73 C-10, I had signals working on it till it caught on fire. I've checked all the wires I don't see anything burnt but now if I hit my brakes the indicator light up for the signals But the signals don't work. Do have any suggestions?? Any one??
@@davidwellman7080 if things are catching fire, you need to take it to a shop and get some help. I tied my turn signals for my new dash into the wrong spot and had the same thing happen. The signals would light up when I hit the brakes. I think I had to tie into the brake wires after they had passed through all the relays n such to fix it. Otherwise it would feed a ground through the system for the brake wires. Anyway, get a skilled person to look at it before the whole truck burns to the ground. Good luck and thanks for watching!
There's a wire on the driver side of my block on the fire wall I just my truck off and that wire started smoking and I can't find anything about but it goes from the firewall down behind the block
Disconnect the battery until you can figure it out. Have to trace it and see where it goes and see where the short is. It’s very possible to catch fire and burn to the ground. May need to get it to a professional shop to troubleshoot.
Awesome video! Strange question but what do you think your C10 is worth completed? If you were to try to sell it?
Hard to say until someone makes an offer but considering how much I’ve spent on it, all the labor involved, and my usual luck, about $3500.00, lol.
That's a good price. I'm working on something similar. Unfortunately I got to sell it when I'm finished. I've seen them go as high as $50 k. But $35k still a good price
@@Bueno-Fabrication-Tuning yeah I was building this as my shop truck but will probably sell it when it’s done
Can you give me a part number on the fuse block?
It is a GEP 6 position MAXI fuse waterproof pdc kit from CE Autoelectric supply.
Can you divulge the blue color on the square body?
It’s 8X0 Smoky Blue from Toyota. Thanks for watching!
Why did you decide not to paint the truck first? Just curious.
Was burnt out on body work for a while after the C10 show truck project so decided to concentrate on getting it running. Once I hear it run it should motivate me to finish the bodywork. 👍
hey great info! where did you get the fuse holder, you called it a maxi fuse? Thanks , Old fart noobie here. Thanks again!!!!
I believe I ordered it from Auto Electric Supply. It’s called a GEP 6 position MAXI fuse waterproof PDC kit. Thanks for watching!
@@StoutCustomthanks!!!!
85-87 bulkheads all the same?!
wiring... the fun and frustrating 😆. I'm definitly no wiring expert or anyting but I do enjoy the challenge. whis is why I'll probably pay someone smarter than me to do the initial wiring on my C10
I think the hard part is trying to keep it neat. The terminator has fairly easy to follow instructions and lots of how tos on the internet. The factory wiring is what’s a little difficult to decipher.
@TCollier It requires patience for sure, but a game plan of major parts, location and like Mr. Jim Stout says, keep it neat.
If you start with a bulb test light, a $50+ digital multi meter, tape, harness cover and equipment to solder. Notice that Mr. Stout used the split convoluted harness cover but the woven cloth, this is easy, safe and clean. Products are also rated by air temps they are exposed to. Solder crimped connectors, shrink tube over them, home improvement stores sell dielectric grease cheap $5.
If you go to salvage yards, behind the glove box in Buick LeSabers, Park Ave (90's era) but you will find a fuse relay block for 12 or each. Each fuse protects the relay control circuit. If "LS" engine, the programmer can turn on two quad-drivers that supply "Ground" to fan relay coils. Set point on & off can be what you want. In the audio world, look at a website "KnuKoncepts" as they have battery terminals that fit, provide 4-5 connections for power & ground. If you caught Mr. Stout's comment; redundant grounds! (Battery- to frame, engine, cab, bed and I suggest ground from alternators end housing to block, battery as this is where (-) comes from. Star washers are flat washers with spurs, placed on last after cable/wire eyelets that dig thru paint, powder coat, grease but use the dielectric grease under, around & top of bolt on terminals. Use a small dab inside plastic connectors for terminals to protect them for moisture.
The bulk-head connector has 4 sections, closest to the fender is lights, engine side is engine, top is cruise control and long 4-5 wire ones is wiper. Use long cheap zip ties to form your harness, one completed, sacrifice the as you install the harness cover.
Companies like "WayTek", Dell City and others have good terminals, but I get GM harness wire & connectors at the bone yard for cheap. Use a masking tape, write the device it goes to and feed it the direction thru loose zip ties. A small flat blade pocket screwdriver & small straight pick work great for removing wires from connectors as I made one from the thin spring steel out of old school wiper blades. Bend a circle handle and grind the other end narrow. I have entire Kent-Moore kit of tools to remove terminals, but use 2-3 only all of the time. Crumpets have come down in price but get ones that roll the center core crimp over into the it's sister.
Tip; Start tape when ready on wire bundle, slide open split over tape, make your wraps and dab black weatherstrip adhesive onto the tag end, press into place and let it dry. It will never unravel.
I am doing an 81 El Co, almost complete. Adding a hidden "No Crank Switch is easy. Get a 40 amp relay with connector. Use 30 & 87 to bread PPL start wire. Use HVAC fan switch High or Cruise Set button. Cruise may provide ground or B+ when pushed as High Fan maybe B+ or continuity between hi and other 3 wires. Push set with left hand finger while cranking (My favorite) or flip blower to HI then crank. Once started, the relay does not effect either function as no cranking is going on. Plus if the engine is running, you can't accidentally re-engage starter again. The "LS" has that feature inside the PCM software. If RPM is above 400, cranking is denied!
Best of luck! DK, ASE master since 78, retired.
@@StoutCustom there's always so much factory wiring but when you do anything aftermarket or restoration it doesn't seem as much
@@deankay4434 a wealth of knowledge in that master brain of yours. If only I had that
@@tcollier4017 I was incorrect in naming the fire wall connector locations. Mr. Stout has "Text" on screen providing information on each connector. I am not totally familiar with the "Square Body C10" as the call it. The connector is held in place on the engine side with a center 10mm bolt. It is usually captured on the back and won't fall.
The group of connectors are held together with a large plastic "C" shaped clip. If spread by thumbs or a pocket screwdriver, work it to & bottom toward the engine. It will release all of the connectors. The first one next to the fender goes back to the bed. The next one is lights.
Either electrical or painting, they both require equipment, knowledge and practice with and understanding of how it works. Jim Stout covers every issue needed including his paint paddle or cut yard stick. Make sure to ease on edge for the leading edge for good contact. Hand placement will become muscle memory or second nature and becomes obvious when blocking over a guide coat.
As for electrical, just watch videos and if hard to understand, go to another as some are much better teachers.
At least the wire color is consistent on GM's. Red=B+, ORN=Switched, WHT, BRN & YEL are usually lights.
Having a wiring diagram or schematic in a factory book would be great, but those are long gone! Dealerships sold them off on eBay as well as people who bought them to sell for profit.
You best bet, depending on the year, but find an "On-Line Forum" and join them. They always have an electrical section. If lucky, someone may post a colored schematic for your truck. Even as new as 86, GM still published a fold out in the back of the OEM service manual. Head light on the left, engine, firewall, dash, seats & doors, fuel pump, tail light, license plate bulb and trailer hitch. Connectors are numbered, circuit number, color & wire size in metric cross section. Find a chart you can print and a 3 ring note book, the a box of heavy plastic page protectors. Major changes to electrical are best handled by drawings & photos. Even if drawings are in crayon! Lol.
DK, ASE master tech. Retired
Im having trouble with my 87 the fuses keep burning for the idle and T/L CTSY the thing about it is i have to have them connected together by a wire for the truck to turn on the truck so if they arent connect then i wont hear the fuel pump go off or anything i dont get it could it be a bad wire somewhere thats burning them or is it something else has anyone ever had this problem before
Really hard to say without looking at it and tracing wires but it sound like too many wires pulling power on one fuse. Need to trace the wires and give individual components their own circuit and fuse. Look for damage to the wires as you trace
@@StoutCustom so its possible that i could have 1 or too many wires connected into one component like one can be going one way and the other another way
@@Rodriguezerick23 I believe so
I need to ask a question first off, WHY WOULD YOU PUT THE BATTERY IN THE PERFECT PLACE TO GET WATER STR8 ON IT!!!? Just wonderin why youd do that
Not planning on driving it in the rain. On the rare occasion it gets wet it will be fine.
marine battery's never get wet, do they?
Where are you located I need mines wired up like that
I’m in north Georgia
Who did you get your fender wells from?
They are factory style from AMD but I modified them. Had to add about 2 1/2” because I raised them up
@StoutCustom trying to find parts for my 1977 C10. It's running just trying to make it look a little nice.
@@TRAIL_MIX_BILLY 10-4. I’ve had good luck with the AMD parts I’ve gotten.
@@StoutCustom they are pricey. Lol
How much is this process
@@jessiejohnson4768 it was my personal truck so I didn’t keep up with it. I’m sure the cost would vary depending on labor rate and materials used but I’ve heard of guys that do really nice work charging around $2k for a wiring job. Like I said it’s going to vary though. Thanks for watching!
why did you raise the fenders 3"?
Most people I know with lowered C10’s have issues with tires scrubbing the inner fenders. Just my attempt at avoiding that.
Can you keep telling what all wierd to firewall do to start the car not the lights you stoped at the purple and there all others colors
I wired to a Holley terminator x so the wires I identified are all I needed. It takes some searching but you should be able to find info by googling c10 bulkhead pin out. If I can find the time I will try to go over the wiring in more detail in a future video. Thanks for watching!
Well if you have time please go into detail with wiring I need help
@@ELPANDAP are you doing an ls swap or factory engine?
Gives me a headache just watching.
Yep. They should include some BC powders in the wiring kits, lol.