Man .....I've been beating my head against the wall trying to figure out my I had running light,done light,but no cluster,headlights,and blinkers. Your video is was so helpful even with someone like me that sometimes can't comprehend things. Thank you sir for this amazing video 👏👏👏
I was wanting to ask if all the fuses in fuse box should be hot? The only one that ain't hot is my headlights until I turn them on and then it's hot. I think I've got something shorted out because I have some lights working. My hazards lights work but not blinkers and I've replaced the flashers.
@ Yes all the fuses should be hot . In most cases you may need to check out the ground. Make sure that all your grounding points are clean and that the wires are in good condition. One other note is to be sure that the terminals where you snap the fuse in is clean . Sometimes rust or corrosion can occur. Just take a piece of sandpaper and clean it up if that’s the case.
Thank you for thoroughly explaining without over explaining if that makes sense. Basically your a great teacher/knowledge sharer. It's very refreshing & needs to be recognized. I just came across & then noticed video is omg 4 years old! 😆
@seanoneil2110 Thank you fir the compliment and fir checking out the videos. I’m glad that they are a help to you. Thanks again and you are welcome. Yes , I do know what you meant about not over explaining. 👍🏽
Awesome stuff.. this was such a helpful and detailed video after not seeing my harness for almost 2 years as I rebuilt my 71 C10. Was able to locate 3 clipped wires I wasn't sure about. Thank you and out of all the makes and models ever made, you chose the harness I'm working with. Life is good :)
I watched each video but didnt see where you explained each wire from the ignition. You explained a couple of them, but not the rest. I really took a lot out of these videos thank you for making them.
Alot of people won't watch do to it not being plug and go! Very well done sir! Really appreciate the depth of detail, not all will appreciate your knowledge but I do.
Keep educating the next generation. These skills are being forgotten but we need to keep this knowledge alive and educate the knuckleheads. Great video,
men i just got here cause is the next step in my restoration project, wiring is a hell isn't it ... but thanks and great video, I'll start to figure it out how fix my mess hahaha SALUDOS from a little town of Mexico !!!
PERFECT! Got a '69 C-10 with issues driving me nuts. Currently got a bypass switch for my starter and an ignition that cuts out on occasion. I'm not looking for a show vehicle, I just wanna keep her running right, and to go back to owning one vehicle.
hugh mallany Thanks . I’m glad that the video were a help to you. Also it’s nice to hear. Thank you for that. Good luck with the rest of your project. 🤙🏽
Brown wire with white stripe aka TCS is the transmission controlled spark wiring. As you say in the later video it isnt needed. Thank you for these videos.
Patina Code im having a problem with the headlights they used to work but now they wont turn on but turn signals do work i tought i fixed it but they wont work no more
Ivan Rdz You may have a bad ground. Listen , run a good ground wire from each side of your radiator core support to the frame . Make sure that there is no paint under the connecting points of the ground . The radiator core support is where your headlights are , the core support is mounted in rubber. I always run a ground from each side of the core support to the frame . Make sure that there isn’t any rust under the headlight ground wire as well. Hope this helps.
Patina Code i was working on it earlier and yea i did notice theres rust on that ground wire but also i have a feeling that the voltage regulator might be out cus lights were dimmed before going out and i put on new headlights
Ivan Rdz That’s a good call , the regulator could be bad . That’s an easy replacement and not that expensive as well. A fresh regulator and cleaned up grounding points just may have you fixed up. While you’re at it make sure your battery is strong.
Great video learned a lot 👍 I’m having a problem with my 72 , both signals flash on the dash when my headlights are on , where should I start ? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Dennis you’re a lifesaver! I’ve got a 72 c10 just saw your videos on wire bulk connectors but what are wires coming out of cab just to the right of main connector facing engine? Several wires including what looks a ten gauge red wire!
Frank Jaramillo It sound to me that someone has added something to your truck. Without seeing what you’re describing to me it’s hard to say. Trace the wires to see where they go. If you want , and if you have Instagram go to my page patina_code and direct message me a picture . If it’s still day time where you’re at we could even do a video chat so you can show me the wires. Just a suggestion.
Great video series and very well detailed, Thanks! I may have missed it... but where would I find the wire from the gas tank sending unit on a 1979 C10 pick-up wiring harness? Does this run to the fuse panel... or to the connector at the rear of the instrument panel? I'm chasing it but have not been successful in locating. I just purchased a custom 56 GMC on a 79 C10 frame and wiring harness... Thank you!
Thank you , I’m glad you enjoyed the videos. I’m not familiar with the wiring schematic on the 1979 year model truck . Sorry I can’t be a help to you for that .
Your vid has cleared up a lot for me. Thanks! One thing I still cannot figure out what wire or wires to use to wire in a new ignition relay in a standalone wire harness for LS swap. I've been told I need to use the PPL starter wire that goes through the safety neutral switch but others have said to use the ign. coil yellow wire and some say to use both. Are you able to tell me what wire(s) I use to power my (LS) ignition relay? Thank you!
Thank you for wanting the video. I’m glad to hear that it was a help to you. Unfortunately, I can not speak on how to go about wiring up a stand alone system. I have no experience with an ls swap.
Do you have any advice on removing rust from the contacts? I was wanting to try clear coating the surface to keep printed lettering safe then dropping it in evaporust.
Update, This worked well however I advise just doing light sanding and then putting on some conductive grease to prevent further rusting, however I did find replacement fuse contacts on a British website.
@@WendysAnime I just use a piece of sand paper to remove the rust . Once you pop the contacts out it’s easy to clean them up . To keep the corrosion away, you can use dielectric grease on them.
I thanked you on one of your other videos for these but now I’m reverting back to them to chase an issue in my 72 suburban. I don’t have reverse lights but replaced the neutral safety switch to no avail. The purple wires on mine were cut and spliced together as a bypass, do they need to be hooked up for the reverse circuit to get power? Or does that come from the fuse panel and is triggered when the vehicle is in reverse? There was an accessory in one of the “unfused” pegs in my fuse panel that has gotten spicy at some point so I’m thinking I have a broken wire inside but was curious about the purple wires. Thanks again dude
Sorry it took me so long to respond. Had to rearrange some thing to fit my newborn into the schedule of life. To answer your question, no the purple wires don’t have anything to do with the reverse lights. They are triggered on when the shift select is moved into the reverse position. Yes there could be an issue inside the fuse box . There should be a light and dark green set of wires that power the reverse lights that plugs into the neutral safety switch. The dark green wire is the power supply and the light green is for the lights.
Hey Dennis just watched your 1st part wiring video excellent info. I was wondering if you can point me in the right direction. My issue is similar to one of your other commenters in that my right side blinker doesn't work. The left side is fine works inside and outside however the right is dead both on the dashboard indicator and my outside turning lights. I already checked the bulbs front and back, I put a new bulb into the printed circuit, checked the actual turn signal cam for contact and scuffed it with sandpaper, as well as replaced both flasher relays. It's a 69 C20 I did replaced all the 194 bulbs with l.e.d.s on the dash except for the turn indicators as they don't have enough resistance to flash (stay on). This also happens with the hazzards as the wiring from the turn signal cam is a newer (blade) version with an adapter for the original (curved) version you showed in the video. Any suggestions would really be appreciated. Thanks in advance new subscriber.
You may want to check the ground contact areas on the truck. Check to be sure that the area under the ground straps are clean , since you’ve put in new equipment and know that it’s not the issue. Faulty grounding points are notorious for causing electronic issues. You may want to even install a ground wire on the right side of the truck from the radiator core to the chassis. Being it that the core support is mounted in rubber. Clean off a spot on the core support and chassis and install a ground wire. I always run a ground on either side of the core support to the chassis, one on each side of the cab to the chassis and one on each side of the bed to the chassis. Check to be sure that the ground that runs between the cab to motor is in good shape as well.
Yeah already got ground wires from both front turn signals into the radiator core support. Unfortunately when I got the truck the wiring has been spliced, hacked, and Mickey moused up the wazoo. And I'm not confident enough to start pulling wires I can't trace to source or output especially since it's my daily driver. But I'll definitely double check all grounds I can find. (Undercarriage is covered in old grease and oil) so everything is basically black haha. Thanks for the input.
fucking right on man. killer video. I can rebuild engines and shit and fix stuff if I know whats wrong. Electrical always screws me up. you explained the part I was trying to get the name for. thanks a bunch. I dont subscribe to many channels. I am to your. keep up the good shit. old American vehicles are the only way to roll.
WOW thanks Dennis! New subscriber here. You're a man after my own heart. I'm building a 54 F100, Put a Camaro front end under it, and built a fairly healthy small block 406 for it. And I used the wiring harness out of a 70 C10. Fries the tires through all three gears. Reason I found your channel is because I just discovered my external regulator ain't charging my battery. I'm gonna end up putting an internally regulated alternator in it, but in the mean time, I'd still like to figure out why the field ain't working. I suspect its because I don't have the idiot light hooked up. Do you happen to know which dash harness wire I should be looking at? I made my own dash panel with aftermarket gauges and never gave any thought to putting an idiot light into the circuit.
That’s a great question ! Unfortunately I do not know the answer to it. I’ve always discarded the external system in favor of the internally regulated charging system. I’m sorry that I can’t help you on this one. I will do some research. I have a schematic for my 1966 Biscayne and it has the external system. When I get home tonight, I’ll look at it and see if it shows where the light tags in .
Hey Dennis, this video is extremely helpful for a total stranger to old wiring harnesses. So on the vehicle I'm working on, an after market radio is wired in so that it keeps blowing the bottom middle 3A fuse every time the truck starts up and is running. If the fuse is replaced and the ignition is left in the acc or on position, the radio turns on and works fine. Once the truck starts up, a 3A, 15A, or even a 30A fuse in the bottom middle 3A slot all will immediately glow red hot and explode. Any ideas on why power to the radio would do that? Thanks!
You have a short some where . Could be a wire that is broken or could be a wire that is bare and creating a direct short . You’re going to have to find that wire . I know that’s not what you want to hear , but that’s the honest answer. One piece of advice. Never use a fuse bigger than what is called for . If a circuit calls for a 10 amp fuse then that’s what you use . If you put a larger amperage fuse in its place , not only could it create more problems but you also can damage the piece of equipment that is on that circuit. Each component requires a certain amperage to function, any more than that will damage the component, and possibly cause fire. Putting a higher amperage fuse in place is not allowing the circuit to “ trip” or blow the fuse . When the circuit can’t blow the fuse , the power continues to build until the fuse blows . Not scolding, just giving you my knowledge. First thing I would do is disconnect the wire from the radio leading to the fuse box , put the proper amp fuses back in and then start the truck and see if the fuse is blown that keeps blowing. If not then I would replace the wire from the radio with new and make sure that you have a good clean ground wire and ground wire connection for the radio. Then start the truck again and see if the problem resurfaces. If so then there is something wrong with the radio circuit.
@@PatinaCode I used to work on all types of old trucks and cars, as well as new ones. These days I'm just an old dumb💩, working as a watchman out in woods. The 69 GMC K2500 I have, has had me for nearly 28yrs. It needs a better cab and front sheet metal, but it's still holding together...so far😁 Used to have 8, 67 to 72 2wd and 4wd trucks, 17 47 to 55 1st series Chevy and GMC trucks and panel trucks, as well as 7 Datsun Z cars,,,72 to 76 model years. Just me, my old faithful GMC and my 90lb RottnLab security system😁
Excellent video, thanks for passing on your knowledge. Just bought a 69 GMC that has no reverse lights. This helps! Is the switch known to go out a lot? Thanks!
Simple Real Estate Thank you . To answer your question, about the switch. They’re fairly reliable, but corrosion and worn contacts begin to create issues after 50 years. Good luck with your truck and congratulations. 👍🏽
Hello Dennis, thanks for the video tutorial. I have a 1956 chevy truck and I am currently rewiring the truck with an aftermarket wiring kit. I am stuck with sending power to the steering column bundle that powers the brakes , turn signals, horn. can you help.
I’m not too sure that I can . I’m not familiar with any of the aftermarket fuse boxes . I’ve never worked with one . I used to take apart a lot of c-10 trucks and keep the fuse boxes to use on projects , that’s how come I’m so familiar with that . What steering column are you using ? If it’s an aftermarket one and you don’t have the layout for the wire bundle , the manufacturer should have one up on their website , detailing which color wire performs what function and the same goes for your aftermarket fuse box . I feel bad that I don’t have a real solution to your problem , but to be honest I just don’t know .
Hey Dennis! Any ideas what is causes the inside blinker to not flash? However, the right side blinker works fine but the left side does not work on the inside. The blinkers work fine outside left and right. I own a 1967 Chevy C10. Thank you in ADVANCE!!!!!
Marquis Lancaster My thought would be that the little brass contacts that pinch the light bulb may be oxidized. Or maybe even slightly loose therefore not making complete contact. Clean the contacts with a bit of 120 grit sand paper then reinstall the new bulb . You can take a fine pick and pry on the little brass contacts just a bit to make them a tighter fit for the bulb. If that doesn’t work then go back through this video to see which wire is for that signal then test it with a test light to see if that wire is receiving power. Hope this helps.
I swapped out my rear wire harness and have everything working tail lights blinkers marker lights brake lights work when not installed but no left brake light any ideas?
If you haven’t already done this . Clean off a spot on the frame and the left side under the bed and put a ground strap or wire in . On all the vehicles that I build I ground each side of the bed , radiator core support and cab to the chassis. One other thing may be that you need to start the truck and let it run for a bit to get the current flowing. One other thing is make sure that there is no rust between where the light bulb housing is screwed into the bed side.
@@PatinaCode Thanks I did try to ground direct to the battery but I will try to the frame to be throrogh. I feel like it might be the turn signal switch in the steering wheel bc when I put the blinker right it functions correctly but when I put it down for left it flashes the blinker and when I set it back to the middle position the left brake light works momentarily but fades away until I set the left blinker again then it will fade out after a few seconds again when I turn the left blinker off.
@@DEADIKATED Yeah , the contacts in the blinker switch. The plastic underneath the horn button could have oxidation on them . Take some 220 grit sand paper and clean the contacts off . That may do the trick.
Im haveing some issues with the wireing in my 70 k10,im starting from scratch with a 12 circuit speedway wireing harness kit,how do i hook up everything,the dash,blinkers and hazards,of course hazards as well?
So I need different fuses for led swap I did,if so do I need one for flahers and turn signals? Second the real issue!!! When I have my head lights on my right turn signal doesn't flash,it stays solid on the dash why? Please help,thx in advance!!!!
Steven Terrell Sorry it took me so long to reply. This is what I do know about led lights... I do know that they have less of an amp draw than the standard lights. With that said you can still use the regular fuses that you have in the truck as long as they are the correct size amperage for that particular fuse location. Never over fuse . If the slot fuse calls for a 10 amp fuse DONT put a 15 amp in its place. Now as far as your light not flashing when the head lights are on goes, that could be that you need to check the headlight ground on both sides of the truck. Make sure that the surface the grounds are attached to is clean. Secondly you may have an issue with the signal switch it’s self. It works off of contact . So there is a chance that the switch isn’t making contact when the lever is in the signaling position. Hopefully that helps out a little . Keep me posted on what’s going on.
RUBEN FILIPPUS If you are still using the factory alternator and external regulator , you may just have the external alternator regulator going bad. Those can be bought at the auto parts stores. If you want to ditch the old style set up all together you can get a 1 wire alternator. The one wire goes from the alternator to the positive side of the battery and then a ground wire . I use the Tuff Stuff one wire alternator. Never have had an issue with those. They are a little over 100 dollars , the price goes up as the amperage output goes up.
Sound like a grounding issue. Check all of the ground straps on the truck . Make sure that the surface underneath is clean . Also check the ground wire that is under the dash . There is on that is connected to the gauge cluster that attached to the under side of the dash on the driver’s side. If you have time, it’s a good idea to add some extra ground wires to the other side of the truck . Bedside to frame , cab to frame and one for the radiator support to the frame. Most electrical issues are due to corrosion at the grounding points. The corrosion creates resistance that won’t allow the electricity to flow very well to your components.
Dennis, I hope you can help me. Do you know the number, item name, or where I can get a cigarette lighter (fuse?) or whatever it’s called, that plugs into the fuse box? I can’t seem to find, or figure out, what to get for it. I’d really appreciate the help! Thanks!
Mike Yerke If you’re wanting to make the lighter port operational, you can run a 12 gauge wire from the lighter to one of the open accessory spades in the fuse box. Crimp you’re wire to a wire female spade connector and then slide that female spade into the fuse box. You can run one of those inline fuse between the lighter and fuse box. 20 amp will be sufficient. Hope this helps . Oh , you may want to go on LMC truck web site and see if they have the original type wire set up with the correct ends on it .
Patina Code P.S. I’m just about to complete my restoration on my ‘68 K20. I’d love for you to check it out on my channel! I always appreciate comments and advice, goodness knows I need it. Haha! 🔧
If the tail lights are staying on with the vehicle off , that could mean that you have a bad light switch , or a bad ground. The light switch has constant power going to it . If the ground is poor then that may be the issue. Also check the ground for the tail lights, which may be in the truck, to see what condition it is in . Also be sure to clean the metal under the ground wires.
Sorry to hear that. Were there any spliced wires ? Some times people will splice into the ignition wires to draw electrical current to other components, and the component that has been connected is unfused and drawing too much amperage. That overload of amperage creates heat , then burns the wire. Another issue is over size fuses. If a spot in the fuse box says 10 amps , then 10 amps it is . So putting a 20 amp fuse in a 10 amp fuse spot will cause the same issue. Fuses are there to protect form circuit overload . If a fuse pops then you can’t just put a bigger fuse in its place so that it won’t pop, because that creates an overload. If a fuse pops , either the component that’s drawing the amps isn’t grounded properly, or the component is defective. Hope this helps. You’re going to have to check your wires , fuses, grounds and any external components that are wired in.
This is my go to video…
Right on ! 🤘🏽🤘🏽 glad that it is helpful to you.
5 years later and this video is helping me fix some messed up wiring in my new truck. Thank you for putting the time and effort into these videos
Glad that I was able to help. Thanks for reaching out . I hope your project goes smoothly.
Thanks again , and thanks for checking out the videos. 👍🏽
These videos are helping me with a 72 Monte Carlo with NO dashlights.
Man .....I've been beating my head against the wall trying to figure out my I had running light,done light,but no cluster,headlights,and blinkers. Your video is was so helpful even with someone like me that sometimes can't comprehend things. Thank you sir for this amazing video 👏👏👏
@@charlierobinson392
You’re welcome and thank you for watching them. I’m glad to hear that I was able to help out. 👍🏽
I was wanting to ask if all the fuses in fuse box should be hot? The only one that ain't hot is my headlights until I turn them on and then it's hot. I think I've got something shorted out because I have some lights working. My hazards lights work but not blinkers and I've replaced the flashers.
@
Yes all the fuses should be hot .
In most cases you may need to check out the ground. Make sure that all your grounding points are clean and that the wires are in good condition.
One other note is to be sure that the terminals where you snap the fuse in is clean . Sometimes rust or corrosion can occur. Just take a piece of sandpaper and clean it up if that’s the case.
Thank you for thoroughly explaining without over explaining if that makes sense. Basically your a great teacher/knowledge sharer. It's very refreshing & needs to be recognized. I just came across & then noticed video is omg 4 years old! 😆
@seanoneil2110
Thank you fir the compliment and fir checking out the videos. I’m glad that they are a help to you. Thanks again and you are welcome.
Yes , I do know what you meant about not over explaining. 👍🏽
Awesome stuff.. this was such a helpful and detailed video after not seeing my harness for almost 2 years as I rebuilt my 71 C10. Was able to locate 3 clipped wires I wasn't sure about. Thank you and out of all the makes and models ever made, you chose the harness I'm working with. Life is good :)
I watched each video but didnt see where you explained each wire from the ignition. You explained a couple of them, but not the rest. I really took a lot out of these videos thank you for making them.
I’m glad to hear that these videos helped you . I’m sorry I missed a few things.
Alot of people won't watch do to it not being plug and go!
Very well done sir! Really appreciate the depth of detail, not all will appreciate your knowledge but I do.
Thank you . These videos were made for people like you , who are really trying to understand the wiring system in these trucks .
Thanks again. 👍🏽
I just got a 68 c10, been sitting since the mid 90s, this video is a major help! Thank you
Thank you and you’re welcome. I appreciate you letting me know . I’m glad the videos were a help to you. 👍🏽
Keep educating the next generation. These skills are being forgotten but we need to keep this knowledge alive and educate the knuckleheads. Great video,
Thank you . And yes , we need to keep some of old ways alive .
I am wiring a freshly built 23 Tbucket, although I have great understanding of auto wiring. This video is a perfect refresher. Outstanding.
First off congratulations on your build, and thank you for the compliment. 👍🏽
You explained that perfect. Thank you. No book or anyone could of explained that better then you did.
Thank you . I’m glad that this was able to help you . 👍🏽
Thanks man, about to redo my 71 gmc. This was a great vid.
You’re welcome and thank you. The rest of the videos in this series will explain the rest of the system.
your videos have helped me a lot brother greetings from fort worth texas
Thank you . I’m glad to hear that they were a help to you . 👍🏽
men i just got here cause is the next step in my restoration project, wiring is a hell isn't it ... but thanks and great video, I'll start to figure it out how fix my mess hahaha SALUDOS from a little town of Mexico !!!
Good luck to you. 👍🏽
Bro you are a life saver, thank you thank you thank you for this! Excellent work!!
Thank you for the kind words. I’m glad you appreciate it . Great luck with your project. 🤘🏽🤘🏽
PERFECT! Got a '69 C-10 with issues driving me nuts. Currently got a bypass switch for my starter and an ignition that cuts out on occasion.
I'm not looking for a show vehicle, I just wanna keep her running right, and to go back to owning one vehicle.
Hey Dennis....thanks so much for these videos....really well done....you Rock!!
hugh mallany Thanks . I’m glad that the video were a help to you. Also it’s nice to hear. Thank you for that. Good luck with the rest of your project. 🤙🏽
Brown wire with white stripe aka TCS is the transmission controlled spark wiring. As you say in the later video it isnt needed. Thank you for these videos.
kevin salter You’re welcome, glad that they were of help to you.
this is very informative and in detailed steps I appreciated your vids brother thanks man
You’re welcome and thank you . Glad that it helped you. 🤘🏽
Thank you, I'm currently trying to troubleshoot a no power from bat to ignition.
You saved my life and my truck thank you
Ivan Rdz
Glad the videos helped you . Thanks 🤘🏽
Patina Code im having a problem with the headlights they used to work but now they wont turn on but turn signals do work i tought i fixed it but they wont work no more
Ivan Rdz
You may have a bad ground.
Listen , run a good ground wire from each side of your radiator core support to the frame . Make sure that there is no paint under the connecting points of the ground . The radiator core support is where your headlights are , the core support is mounted in rubber. I always run a ground from each side of the core support to the frame .
Make sure that there isn’t any rust under the headlight ground wire as well. Hope this helps.
Patina Code i was working on it earlier and yea i did notice theres rust on that ground wire but also i have a feeling that the voltage regulator might be out cus lights were dimmed before going out and i put on new headlights
Ivan Rdz
That’s a good call , the regulator could be bad . That’s an easy replacement and not that expensive as well. A fresh regulator and cleaned up grounding points just may have you fixed up. While you’re at it make sure your battery is strong.
This is right on point guys ...thanks D ....! Well done 👍👌 A MUST SEE ..NO BULLSHIT NO DRAMA .. perfect video.👍👍👍
bghank Hernandez Thank you . I’m glad that I was able to help. Thanks again.🤙🏽
Very well explained man, helpful 👍🏼
Thank you ! 👍🏽
Thanks for these videos , great help
You’re welcome and thank you. Glad I was able to help. 👍🏽
Awesome video bro thanks very good info
You’re welcome and thank you . I’m glad that it helped. 🤘🏽
thank you man, this saved me
Your welcome and thank you .
Happy the videos helped you. 👍🏽
Thank you so much! You are awesome!🙏
Thank you. Glad to hear the video was a help. 👍🏽
Great video learned a lot 👍 I’m having a problem with my 72 , both signals flash on the dash when my headlights are on , where should I start ? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Dennis you’re a lifesaver! I’ve got a 72 c10 just saw your videos on wire bulk connectors but what are wires coming out of cab just to the right of main connector facing engine? Several wires including what looks a ten gauge red wire!
Frank Jaramillo
It sound to me that someone has added something to your truck. Without seeing what you’re describing to me it’s hard to say. Trace the wires to see where they go. If you want , and if you have Instagram go to my page patina_code and direct message me a picture . If it’s still day time where you’re at we could even do a video chat so you can show me the wires.
Just a suggestion.
Great video series and very well detailed, Thanks! I may have missed it... but where would I find the wire from the gas tank sending unit on a 1979 C10 pick-up wiring harness? Does this run to the fuse panel... or to the connector at the rear of the instrument panel? I'm chasing it but have not been successful in locating. I just purchased a custom 56 GMC on a 79 C10 frame and wiring harness... Thank you!
Thank you , I’m glad you enjoyed the videos.
I’m not familiar with the wiring schematic on the 1979 year model truck . Sorry I can’t be a help to you for that .
Man thank you so much 🙏
Your vid has cleared up a lot for me. Thanks! One thing I still cannot figure out what wire or wires to use to wire in a new ignition relay in a standalone wire harness for LS swap. I've been told I need to use the PPL starter wire that goes through the safety neutral switch but others have said to use the ign. coil yellow wire and some say to use both. Are you able to tell me what wire(s) I use to power my (LS) ignition relay? Thank you!
Thank you for wanting the video. I’m glad to hear that it was a help to you.
Unfortunately, I can not speak on how to go about wiring up a stand alone system. I have no experience with an ls swap.
Very helpful thank you
Thank you and you’re welcome. 👍🏽
Dude, life saver!
🤘🏽🤘🏽 glad to hear that I was a help to you .
Awesome Video
Thank you .🤘🏽🤘🏽
The 2 grey wires on the instrument cluster plug where do they go? The double grey wires coming out of that plug.
Do you have any advice on removing rust from the contacts? I was wanting to try clear coating the surface to keep printed lettering safe then dropping it in evaporust.
Update, This worked well however I advise just doing light sanding and then putting on some conductive grease to prevent further rusting, however I did find replacement fuse contacts on a British website.
@@WendysAnime
I just use a piece of sand paper to remove the rust .
Once you pop the contacts out it’s easy to clean them up . To keep the corrosion away, you can use dielectric grease on them.
@@WendysAnime
Sorry it took me so long to reply. I’m glad you knew what to do . Thanks for checking out the videos. 👍🏽
I thanked you on one of your other videos for these but now I’m reverting back to them to chase an issue in my 72 suburban. I don’t have reverse lights but replaced the neutral safety switch to no avail. The purple wires on mine were cut and spliced together as a bypass, do they need to be hooked up for the reverse circuit to get power? Or does that come from the fuse panel and is triggered when the vehicle is in reverse? There was an accessory in one of the “unfused” pegs in my fuse panel that has gotten spicy at some point so I’m thinking I have a broken wire inside but was curious about the purple wires. Thanks again dude
Sorry it took me so long to respond. Had to rearrange some thing to fit my newborn into the schedule of life.
To answer your question, no the purple wires don’t have anything to do with the reverse lights. They are triggered on when the shift select is moved into the reverse position.
Yes there could be an issue inside the fuse box . There should be a light and dark green set of wires that power the reverse lights that plugs into the neutral safety switch. The dark green wire is the power supply and the light green is for the lights.
@@PatinaCode I’ll have a look for a break in the green wires in the fuse panel. Thank you dude!
Hey Dennis just watched your 1st part wiring video excellent info. I was wondering if you can point me in the right direction. My issue is similar to one of your other commenters in that my right side blinker doesn't work. The left side is fine works inside and outside however the right is dead both on the dashboard indicator and my outside turning lights. I already checked the bulbs front and back, I put a new bulb into the printed circuit, checked the actual turn signal cam for contact and scuffed it with sandpaper, as well as replaced both flasher relays. It's a 69 C20 I did replaced all the 194 bulbs with l.e.d.s on the dash except for the turn indicators as they don't have enough resistance to flash (stay on). This also happens with the hazzards as the wiring from the turn signal cam is a newer (blade) version with an adapter for the original (curved) version you showed in the video. Any suggestions would really be appreciated. Thanks in advance new subscriber.
You may want to check the ground contact areas on the truck. Check to be sure that the area under the ground straps are clean , since you’ve put in new equipment and know that it’s not the issue. Faulty grounding points are notorious for causing electronic issues.
You may want to even install a ground wire on the right side of the truck from the radiator core to the chassis. Being it that the core support is mounted in rubber. Clean off a spot on the core support and chassis and install a ground wire. I always run a ground on either side of the core support to the chassis, one on each side of the cab to the chassis and one on each side of the bed to the chassis. Check to be sure that the ground that runs between the cab to motor is in good shape as well.
Yeah already got ground wires from both front turn signals into the radiator core support. Unfortunately when I got the truck the wiring has been spliced, hacked, and Mickey moused up the wazoo. And I'm not confident enough to start pulling wires I can't trace to source or output especially since it's my daily driver. But I'll definitely double check all grounds I can find. (Undercarriage is covered in old grease and oil) so everything is basically black haha. Thanks for the input.
68 1 ton 14ft flat bed c30
fucking right on man. killer video. I can rebuild engines and shit and fix stuff if I know whats wrong. Electrical always screws me up. you explained the part I was trying to get the name for. thanks a bunch. I dont subscribe to many channels. I am to your. keep up the good shit. old American vehicles are the only way to roll.
WOW thanks Dennis! New subscriber here. You're a man after my own heart. I'm building a 54 F100, Put a Camaro front end under it, and built a fairly healthy small block 406 for it. And I used the wiring harness out of a 70 C10. Fries the tires through all three gears. Reason I found your channel is because I just discovered my external regulator ain't charging my battery. I'm gonna end up putting an internally regulated alternator in it, but in the mean time, I'd still like to figure out why the field ain't working. I suspect its because I don't have the idiot light hooked up. Do you happen to know which dash harness wire I should be looking at? I made my own dash panel with aftermarket gauges and never gave any thought to putting an idiot light into the circuit.
That’s a great question ! Unfortunately I do not know the answer to it. I’ve always discarded the external system in favor of the internally regulated charging system.
I’m sorry that I can’t help you on this one. I will do some research. I have a schematic for my 1966 Biscayne and it has the external system. When I get home tonight, I’ll look at it and see if it shows where the light tags in .
Hey Dennis, this video is extremely helpful for a total stranger to old wiring harnesses. So on the vehicle I'm working on, an after market radio is wired in so that it keeps blowing the bottom middle 3A fuse every time the truck starts up and is running. If the fuse is replaced and the ignition is left in the acc or on position, the radio turns on and works fine. Once the truck starts up, a 3A, 15A, or even a 30A fuse in the bottom middle 3A slot all will immediately glow red hot and explode. Any ideas on why power to the radio would do that? Thanks!
You have a short some where . Could be a wire that is broken or could be a wire that is bare and creating a direct short .
You’re going to have to find that wire . I know that’s not what you want to hear , but that’s the honest answer.
One piece of advice. Never use a fuse bigger than what is called for . If a circuit calls for a 10 amp fuse then that’s what you use . If you put a larger amperage fuse in its place , not only could it create more problems but you also can damage the piece of equipment that is on that circuit. Each component requires a certain amperage to function, any more than that will damage the component, and possibly cause fire. Putting a higher amperage fuse in place is not allowing the circuit to “ trip” or blow the fuse . When the circuit can’t blow the fuse , the power continues to build until the fuse blows .
Not scolding, just giving you my knowledge.
First thing I would do is disconnect the wire from the radio leading to the fuse box , put the proper amp fuses back in and then start the truck and see if the fuse is blown that keeps blowing. If not then I would replace the wire from the radio with new and make sure that you have a good clean ground wire and ground wire connection for the radio.
Then start the truck again and see if the problem resurfaces.
If so then there is something wrong with the radio circuit.
Good job🎯😎☕
Thank you . 👍🏽
@@PatinaCode I used to work on all types of old trucks and cars, as well as new ones.
These days I'm just an old dumb💩, working as a watchman out in woods.
The 69 GMC K2500 I have, has had me for nearly 28yrs.
It needs a better cab and front sheet metal, but it's still holding together...so far😁
Used to have 8, 67 to 72 2wd and 4wd trucks, 17 47 to 55 1st series Chevy and GMC trucks and panel trucks, as well as 7 Datsun Z cars,,,72 to 76 model years.
Just me, my old faithful GMC and my 90lb RottnLab security system😁
@@invisibilianone6288
I’m glad to hear that you kept at least one of the old trucks and that it’s still serving you well .
Hi just watched video of cluster connection but no mention of what wires are for is there another video I have a73 c10 step side
Yes the other videos explain what the wire color and what function they perform.
@@PatinaCode I honestly very much appreciate you sharing your knowledge with people like ME who Need the help
@@alphadog1961
You’re welcome and thank you . I glad to hear that the video was a help to you. 👍🏽
@@PatinaCode Pretty Good of you putting your nowledge ovide for all the classic car people that have issues in the years to come...you will Live On
What's the brown with a green stripe wire on the taillight ?
Excellent video, thanks for passing on your knowledge. Just bought a 69 GMC that has no reverse lights. This helps! Is the switch known to go out a lot? Thanks!
Simple Real Estate
Thank you . To answer your question, about the switch. They’re fairly reliable, but corrosion and worn contacts begin to create issues after 50 years.
Good luck with your truck and congratulations. 👍🏽
Hello Dennis, thanks for the video tutorial. I have a 1956 chevy truck and I am currently rewiring the truck with an aftermarket wiring kit. I am stuck with sending power to the steering column bundle that powers the brakes , turn signals, horn. can you help.
I’m not too sure that I can . I’m not familiar with any of the aftermarket fuse boxes . I’ve never worked with one .
I used to take apart a lot of c-10 trucks and keep the fuse boxes to use on projects , that’s how come I’m so familiar with that .
What steering column are you using ? If it’s an aftermarket one and you don’t have the layout for the wire bundle , the manufacturer should have one up on their website , detailing which color wire performs what function and the same goes for your aftermarket fuse box .
I feel bad that I don’t have a real solution to your problem , but to be honest I just don’t know .
I have a 72 Monte,no power to dashlight fuse green wire and grey wire,any suggestions?
Hey Dennis! Any ideas what is causes the inside blinker to not flash? However, the right side blinker works fine but the left side does not work on the inside. The blinkers work fine outside left and right. I own a 1967 Chevy C10. Thank you in ADVANCE!!!!!
Marquis Lancaster My thought would be that the little brass contacts that pinch the light bulb may be oxidized.
Or maybe even slightly loose therefore not making complete contact. Clean the contacts with a bit of 120 grit sand paper then reinstall the new bulb . You can take a fine pick and pry on the little brass contacts just a bit to make them a tighter fit for the bulb. If that doesn’t work then go back through this video to see which wire is for that signal then test it with a test light to see if that wire is receiving power.
Hope this helps.
Thank you kindly Dennis and really appreciate your timely response. You are truly a GOD send!!!!!!!
I swapped out my rear wire harness and have everything working tail lights blinkers marker lights brake lights work when not installed but no left brake light any ideas?
If you haven’t already done this . Clean off a spot on the frame and the left side under the bed and put a ground strap or wire in . On all the vehicles that I build I ground each side of the bed , radiator core support and cab to the chassis. One other thing may be that you need to start the truck and let it run for a bit to get the current flowing.
One other thing is make sure that there is no rust between where the light bulb housing is screwed into the bed side.
@@PatinaCode Thanks I did try to ground direct to the battery but I will try to the frame to be throrogh. I feel like it might be the turn signal switch in the steering wheel bc when I put the blinker right it functions correctly but when I put it down for left it flashes the blinker and when I set it back to the middle position the left brake light works momentarily but fades away until I set the left blinker again then it will fade out after a few seconds again when I turn the left blinker off.
@@DEADIKATED
Yeah , the contacts in the blinker switch. The plastic underneath the horn button could have oxidation on them . Take some 220 grit sand paper and clean the contacts off . That may do the trick.
Ok Thx will do!
Im haveing some issues with the wireing in my 70 k10,im starting from scratch with a 12 circuit speedway wireing harness kit,how do i hook up everything,the dash,blinkers and hazards,of course hazards as well?
You Rock thanks!
luckybobj Right on❕ Glad I was able to help. 🤘🏽
love it
Right on ! Glad the video was a help to you . 👍🏽
So I need different fuses for led swap I did,if so do I need one for flahers and turn signals? Second the real issue!!! When I have my head lights on my right turn signal doesn't flash,it stays solid on the dash why? Please help,thx in advance!!!!
Steven Terrell Sorry it took me so long to reply. This is what I do know about led lights... I do know that they have less of an amp draw than the standard lights.
With that said you can still use the regular fuses that you have in the truck as long as they are the correct size amperage for that particular fuse location. Never over fuse . If the slot fuse calls for a 10 amp fuse DONT put a 15 amp in its place.
Now as far as your light not flashing when the head lights are on goes, that could be that you need to check the headlight ground on both sides of the truck. Make sure that the surface the grounds are attached to is clean. Secondly you may have an issue with the signal switch it’s self. It works off of contact . So there is a chance that the switch isn’t making contact when the lever is in the signaling position.
Hopefully that helps out a little . Keep me posted on what’s going on.
I have a 67 C10 truck that just killing alternators.is there any way to wire it without using the factory fuse box?
RUBEN FILIPPUS
If you are still using the factory alternator and external regulator , you may just have the external alternator regulator going bad. Those can be bought at the auto parts stores.
If you want to ditch the old style set up all together you can get a 1 wire alternator. The one wire goes from the alternator to the positive side of the battery and then a ground wire .
I use the Tuff Stuff one wire alternator. Never have had an issue with those. They are a little over 100 dollars , the price goes up as the amperage output goes up.
@@PatinaCode ok thanks for your reply I think I should go for one wire alternator
I got 67 stepside no tail light when lights are on but i still have brake and blinker when lights are off
Sound like a grounding issue. Check all of the ground straps on the truck . Make sure that the surface underneath is clean . Also check the ground wire that is under the dash . There is on that is connected to the gauge cluster that attached to the under side of the dash on the driver’s side.
If you have time, it’s a good idea to add some extra ground wires to the other side of the truck . Bedside to frame , cab to frame and one for the radiator support to the frame.
Most electrical issues are due to corrosion at the grounding points. The corrosion creates resistance that won’t allow the electricity to flow very well to your components.
Thanks.
You’re welcome and thank you.
Dennis, I hope you can help me. Do you know the number, item name, or where I can get a cigarette lighter (fuse?) or whatever it’s called, that plugs into the fuse box? I can’t seem to find, or figure out, what to get for it. I’d really appreciate the help! Thanks!
Mike Yerke
If you’re wanting to make the lighter port operational, you can run a 12 gauge wire from the lighter to one of the open accessory spades in the fuse box.
Crimp you’re wire to a wire female spade connector and then slide that female spade into the fuse box.
You can run one of those inline fuse between the lighter and fuse box. 20 amp will be sufficient.
Hope this helps . Oh , you may want to go on LMC truck web site and see if they have the original type wire set up with the correct ends on it .
Patina Code Thank you so much. I appreciate your time to help me with that problem. Makes perfect sense!
Patina Code P.S. I’m just about to complete my restoration on my ‘68 K20. I’d love for you to check it out on my channel! I always appreciate comments and advice, goodness knows I need it. Haha! 🔧
Mike Yerke
Glad I was able to help and yeah I’ll come check out your build . 👍🏽
smart
Thanks, and thanks fir watching. 🤘🏽🤘🏽
I need your help,are you in Ga?
Steven Terrell Sorry , not in Georgia. I’m in Missouri. What’s the issue? Maybe I can help find a solution.
My tail lights are staying on even if the car is off 1967 Impala convertible
If the tail lights are staying on with the vehicle off , that could mean that you have a bad light switch , or a bad ground.
The light switch has constant power going to it . If the ground is poor then that may be the issue.
Also check the ground for the tail lights, which may be in the truck, to see what condition it is in . Also be sure to clean the metal under the ground wires.
I have a 75 gmc v8 350 and my Ignition caught on fire
Sorry to hear that. Were there any spliced wires ? Some times people will splice into the ignition wires to draw electrical current to other components, and the component that has been connected is unfused and drawing too much amperage. That overload of amperage creates heat , then burns the wire.
Another issue is over size fuses. If a spot in the fuse box says 10 amps , then 10 amps it is . So putting a 20 amp fuse in a 10 amp fuse spot will cause the same issue. Fuses are there to protect form circuit overload . If a fuse pops then you can’t just put a bigger fuse in its place so that it won’t pop, because that creates an overload. If a fuse pops , either the component that’s drawing the amps isn’t grounded properly, or the component is defective.
Hope this helps. You’re going to have to check your wires , fuses, grounds and any external components that are wired in.