Always do oil filter change 1st . Get the new filter installed. You don't need to rush this part. Then drop the oil in sump. Timer starts. Doing in that order you won't get oil on your driveway.
How do you replace the filter without oil running out and leaking all over everything? I've tried everything I can think of... every time I remove the cap, I get oil just pour out everywhere.
In 2018 I did my first Ranger oil change in 8:32min & yes it can be messy. Just warm is the trick, if you do it when the motor is Hot oil can drain out of the oil pump faster. I do it on sloping ground near my shed & on ramps facing the front down hill. The oil pump is at the front of the engine block so when you add oil it covers the oil pump pick up sooner. I've done 4 oil changes & never had a problem. As you say, be well organised before you start.
Its hard to tell from the video but i did this change on my driveway which slopes forward so this effectively does the same thing. This was unintentional as i had no idea where the oil pump is located so this is just a added bonus to having a crappy sloping driveway... haha. hopefully people can get more confidence out of watching this video that even when things go wrong there is still plenty of time to get it done under 10 minutes if you are organised before hand
@@egemensuzgun4208 as the oil was draining I swapped out the filter, then refilled sump The oil was red hot and drained way too fast like water, pump emptied and no pressure on start up Unscrewed filter again and I think this let air lock out Pumped oil in the filter housing very messy and put it back and luckily got oil pressure . I shall never drain it empty again lol
@@RegularBenHur in the morning when ranger is fully cold, start for 30 seconds no more as this is to fully prime the oil pump but keep oil cold. Then change out the oil filter . Clean up as you go. You don't need to rush just yet. Then drop oil out of sump to a slow drip. Put sump plug back in and refill the correct amount of oil have a decent funel . 10mins max And start ASAP to circulate new oil. Hot oil will certainly drain out of the oil pump as it alot thinner when hot. You were luck to get oil pressure back.
Nice bro theres a drain in the oil filter case put a bucket under it its like a funnel as old mate said do the filter first and start the engine after you have filled it keep it up good vid
Great vid mate! My 2008 V6 Holden VE Commodore 60th anniversary edition has a top mounted cartridge filter that is easy to change just with a 23mm socket and does not drop any oil during the change. I use Penrite HPR5 Extra 10 (5W-40) full synthetic oil which I change every 10000km, but I also change the oil filter every 5000km because they are cheap and easy to change up in the engine bay. I check the oil level on the dipstick about 15 seconds after turning off the warmed up engine. Regards, Jas. vk4fjgs Rockhampton Queensland Australia
About the only good thing about the VE V6 Commodore... being able to replace the oil filter without oil going everywhere... have you had your timing chain replaced yet because the old one stretched for no apparent reason?
It's not for no reason. The timing chain stretches abnormally when people are too lazy and or cheap to do simple regular maintenance like oil changes with a good quality oil and keeping the oil level full. The timing chain uses the oil for lubrication and cooling. When the oil level is low, the timing chain runs hotter and stretches quicker. I have not changed my timing chain because it is still in good condition.
@@jasntrace1971 everything you said is correct, however Holden themselves have acknowledged that the chains used in a lot of the early VE V6 engines were too thin/weak and prone to stretching, even with proper maintenance and care. First sign is the engine light coming on with Cam & Crank sensor correlation/implausible value faults. Holden had a "fix" for this where they would update the ECU software to allow for more variance in the signal correlation... 6-12 months later, once the chain continued to stretch, the light would come back on with the same fault codes and this time the only remedy is to replace the chains.
This is quiet possible, my thinking behind it is that the less oil that is in the engine, then less there would be in the filter housing, so not as much to spill. i will try it next time and see how it goes, thanks for the idea
No, as soon as you remove the cover from the oil filter & let air in the pump starts draining. Start timing as soon as you start, 10 mins is for the whole job.
@@peterbrowning1251 that does sound right what you’re saying at all... the oil filter in my opinion should be done first.. as most of the oil has already drained from the filter to the sump... which is replaced with air... so opening it up makes no difference to the 10 minute minimum oil change time
@@peterbrowning1251isn't the pump near the sump? I took the filter off first and took my time cleaning housing and replacing filter without a problem before draining sump.
dont no what the big panick is about, i just replace the oil filter first, leaving the engine crank case oil till last, then just drain engine i pass 500ml of clean oil , then when clean oil starts flowing slow, plug up, pour the complete fill of oil in. no problems, no panick..
Anything longer than 10 minutes, there is a possibility that the oil pump may drain and won't self primp, and to prevent this, you perform the oil change in under 10 minutes
@@TheInsightDistrict d process on how i change oil my everest is open d oil filler cover; remove d oil filter then remove d oil plug to start draining. While draining i start setting d new oil filter back. Finish evrything in lesd than 10mins
Hey mate Was there any reason you went for the 5w30 oil over the recommended 0w30.? I have the 2021 3.2L ranger and in the manual it only specs the 0w30 oil with the ford oil spec C2 I have generally used 5w30 in other vehicles . Ford said to me I have to use the exact oil spec in manual to retain 5 year warranty
From memory i went on the supercheap auto website and put my rego in, and that's the product that they offered for my vehicle and i compared it to my manual and it matched so i went with that
@@TheInsightDistrict I contacted penrite tech support and they did recommend the 5w30 full zinc above their enviro plus C2 0w30. Both these oils are suitable to use with ford ranger/Mazda bt50 with DPF or with out DPF. And meet the ford specs. The 5w30 full zinc offers better engine/turbo protection as higher amount of zinc content. While the enviro plus 0w30 is has less wear additive protection for engine but better for environment. I will be running full zinc 5w30.
the Winter rating for oil comes in at 0 degrees Fahrenheit, so about -17 Celsius. The viscosity difference between 5 and 0 would be negligible unless you find yourself often starting the car in such low temperatures. The most important aspect of an oil's viscosity rating is the latter part - that's where you want to follow a manufacturer's specifications as closely as possible. Of course, there are other things to keep in mind to, such as the ACEA ratings, whether the car is suitable for DPF systems in modern Diesels, etc
@@dennisn5308 the base oil type (group III or PAO) and zinc content antiwear additive amount along with specific oil specs is the thing to always check. Some oil meets the spec and some oils exceed the spec. The oils for the environment/DPF have lower zinc, lower TBN so less wear protection and less detergents so in turn don't last as long and should be changed more regularly. After 15000km do an oil analysis and it will show how the oil performed and if it lasted . If it has low levels of wear and still has TBN the oil did its job. Penrite recommends the prefered 5w30 full zinc and the 0w30 C2 is an alternative for the 3.2L diesel. Check out the penrite App.
It is even easier if you remove the front left wheel ☺ the filter housing should be torqued up to 25Nm
Absolute legend for listing the tools needed and great cam work.
Always do oil filter change 1st . Get the new filter installed. You don't need to rush this part.
Then drop the oil in sump. Timer starts.
Doing in that order you won't get oil on your driveway.
Exactly. Filter first. Pickup is in oil .pump is still primed.
How do you replace the filter without oil running out and leaking all over everything? I've tried everything I can think of... every time I remove the cap, I get oil just pour out everywhere.
In 2018 I did my first Ranger oil change in 8:32min & yes it can be messy. Just warm is the trick, if you do it when the motor is Hot oil can drain out of the oil pump faster. I do it on sloping ground near my shed & on ramps facing the front down hill. The oil pump is at the front of the engine block so when you add oil it covers the oil pump pick up sooner. I've done 4 oil changes & never had a problem. As you say, be well organised before you start.
Its hard to tell from the video but i did this change on my driveway which slopes forward so this effectively does the same thing. This was unintentional as i had no idea where the oil pump is located so this is just a added bonus to having a crappy sloping driveway... haha. hopefully people can get more confidence out of watching this video that even when things go wrong there is still plenty of time to get it done under 10 minutes if you are organised before hand
did mine with hot oil in 8 mins and the pump drained it was a nightmare...your right just warm is best
@@RegularBenHur did you do oil filter first or after the oil change
@@egemensuzgun4208 as the oil was draining I swapped out the filter, then refilled sump
The oil was red hot and drained way too fast like water, pump emptied and no pressure on start up
Unscrewed filter again and I think this let air lock out
Pumped oil in the filter housing very messy and put it back and luckily got oil pressure .
I shall never drain it empty again lol
@@RegularBenHur in the morning when ranger is fully cold, start for 30 seconds no more as this is to fully prime the oil pump but keep oil cold.
Then change out the oil filter . Clean up as you go. You don't need to rush just yet.
Then drop oil out of sump to a slow drip.
Put sump plug back in and refill the correct amount of oil have a decent funel .
10mins max
And start ASAP to circulate new oil.
Hot oil will certainly drain out of the oil pump as it alot thinner when hot. You were luck to get oil pressure back.
Nice bro theres a drain in the oil filter case put a bucket under it its like a funnel as old mate said do the filter first and start the engine after you have filled it keep it up good vid
Real bloke as it normally goes cheers
Great vid. Thanks for sharing. Looks like I don't have to jack the car up to be able to drain the oil and redo the sump screw?
Why not do filter first?...then you can drop the oil
That's how I do mine. First first
Great vid mate!
My 2008 V6 Holden VE Commodore 60th anniversary edition has a top mounted cartridge filter that is easy to change just with a 23mm socket and does not drop any oil during the change.
I use Penrite HPR5 Extra 10 (5W-40) full synthetic oil which I change every 10000km, but I also change the oil filter every 5000km because they are cheap and easy to change up in the engine bay.
I check the oil level on the dipstick about 15 seconds after turning off the warmed up engine.
Regards, Jas.
vk4fjgs
Rockhampton Queensland Australia
Thanks for the info, thats really good to know
About the only good thing about the VE V6 Commodore... being able to replace the oil filter without oil going everywhere... have you had your timing chain replaced yet because the old one stretched for no apparent reason?
It's not for no reason.
The timing chain stretches abnormally when people are too lazy and or cheap to do simple regular maintenance like oil changes with a good quality oil and keeping the oil level full.
The timing chain uses the oil for lubrication and cooling.
When the oil level is low, the timing chain runs hotter and stretches quicker.
I have not changed my timing chain because it is still in good condition.
@@jasntrace1971 everything you said is correct, however Holden themselves have acknowledged that the chains used in a lot of the early VE V6 engines were too thin/weak and prone to stretching, even with proper maintenance and care. First sign is the engine light coming on with Cam & Crank sensor correlation/implausible value faults. Holden had a "fix" for this where they would update the ECU software to allow for more variance in the signal correlation... 6-12 months later, once the chain continued to stretch, the light would come back on with the same fault codes and this time the only remedy is to replace the chains.
Join the Facebook group for more info: facebook.com/groups/theinsightdistrict
Would it be easier to change the oil filter first.....before you even start the timer!
This is quiet possible, my thinking behind it is that the less oil that is in the engine, then less there would be in the filter housing, so not as much to spill. i will try it next time and see how it goes, thanks for the idea
No, as soon as you remove the cover from the oil filter & let air in the pump starts draining. Start timing as soon as you start, 10 mins is for the whole job.
@@peterbrowning1251 that does sound right what you’re saying at all... the oil filter in my opinion should be done first.. as most of the oil has already drained from the filter to the sump... which is replaced with air... so opening it up makes no difference to the 10 minute minimum oil change time
Yep that's how I did my first one without a hitch, I just put a big plastic tarp down and drove onto it because there's a bunch of oil in there.
@@peterbrowning1251isn't the pump near the sump? I took the filter off first and took my time cleaning housing and replacing filter without a problem before draining sump.
how many litres of new oil did you put back?
My understand was regardless of the the time it takes just dont completely empty the oil to the point of dripping from the sump. is this not the case?
yea , just 10 minutes is a good reference point
Get your shit together first. Practice
Filter first. Then drain.
New plug. Fill. Start. Easy
It usually takes me 7.5 minutes
dont no what the big panick is about, i just replace the oil filter first, leaving the engine crank case oil till last, then just drain engine i pass 500ml of clean oil , then when clean oil starts flowing slow, plug up, pour the complete fill of oil in. no problems, no panick..
thats a fair point
Whats the reason why it needs to finish the job in 10mins?
Anything longer than 10 minutes, there is a possibility that the oil pump may drain and won't self primp, and to prevent this, you perform the oil change in under 10 minutes
@@TheInsightDistrict now i know. Thnx bro. Actually im doing this rule even without knowing d reason y😅
@@TheInsightDistrict d process on how i change oil my everest is open d oil filler cover; remove d oil filter then remove d oil plug to start draining. While draining i start setting d new oil filter back. Finish evrything in lesd than 10mins
Why not just replace the filter after new oil is added!
That might be an option that some people choose, personally I prefer to remove as much of the old oil that i can before i add any of the new oil
Because the filter has the quite an amount of oil which is supposed to drain out so if u add new oil first. U will waste the new oil.
Hey mate Was there any reason you went for the 5w30 oil over the recommended 0w30.?
I have the 2021 3.2L ranger and in the manual it only specs the 0w30 oil with the ford oil spec C2
I have generally used 5w30 in other vehicles .
Ford said to me I have to use the exact oil spec in manual to retain 5 year warranty
From memory i went on the supercheap auto website and put my rego in, and that's the product that they offered for my vehicle and i compared it to my manual and it matched so i went with that
@@TheInsightDistrict
I contacted penrite tech support and they did recommend the 5w30 full zinc above their enviro plus C2 0w30.
Both these oils are suitable to use with ford ranger/Mazda bt50 with DPF or with out DPF. And meet the ford specs.
The 5w30 full zinc offers better engine/turbo protection as higher amount of zinc content.
While the enviro plus 0w30 is has less wear additive protection for engine but better for environment.
I will be running full zinc 5w30.
the Winter rating for oil comes in at 0 degrees Fahrenheit, so about -17 Celsius. The viscosity difference between 5 and 0 would be negligible unless you find yourself often starting the car in such low temperatures. The most important aspect of an oil's viscosity rating is the latter part - that's where you want to follow a manufacturer's specifications as closely as possible. Of course, there are other things to keep in mind to, such as the ACEA ratings, whether the car is suitable for DPF systems in modern Diesels, etc
@@dennisn5308 the base oil type (group III or PAO) and zinc content antiwear additive amount along with specific oil specs is the thing to always check.
Some oil meets the spec and some oils exceed the spec.
The oils for the environment/DPF have lower zinc, lower TBN so less wear protection and less detergents so in turn don't last as long and should be changed more regularly.
After 15000km do an oil analysis and it will show how the oil performed and if it lasted .
If it has low levels of wear and still has TBN the oil did its job.
Penrite recommends the prefered 5w30 full zinc and the 0w30 C2 is an alternative for the 3.2L diesel.
Check out the penrite App.
You panic too much mate sow down take your time and you will have less mistakes
I do my own only takes 6min if you take your time and not panic
Is there a time limit on the 2.2L engine also?
i dont think so, but not 100% sure, i think they rectified the issue with that build
@@TheInsightDistrict thanks for replying 👍
@@Tammy-xf4kz thats all good, sorry it took me a while to reply
Does this model engine take one gallon of oil r more ?
Dont Know what it is in Gallons, but it takes 9.8L of oil
@@TheInsightDistrict thanks, my first ever ford ranger and first of this size, thanks again
@@bernardbrowne5205 I hope the videos help
@@TheInsightDistrict of course it did my man of course
I'm about to do this tomorrow, I'm scared
how did you go with it?
Mate you didn't even start it up.and check for oil pressure or leaks
You can change the filter first and doing that does not count towards the 10 min
Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated
I'm guessing, the filter is in an tight spot & you might struggle to fit it back a couple of times.
Now try that on the 2019-2021 Ranger Mate 🤣
doesnt work the same?
No kidding, I have a 2021 😂
The video was in fast forward must have taken longer just buy a lux😂
oil filter first please…..
different people do it different ways