I have an old syphon feed Devillebiss that I picked up at a yard sale for $20 a couple years ago specifically for my project truck... I have some Harbor Freight sprayers, but I wanted a really good one for this paint job... I got no problem spraying primer with those other ones, but I knew I was gonna have to save up for a good one when it comes time for color, then I found that one & it was suction feed... I snapped that joker up quick! Lol! Good to hear that a suction feed works best for flake if you're more relaxed... I don't like feeling pressured to hurry, I operate slowly & methodically, so having to rush with the gravity feed doesn't appeal to me...& most places have nothing but gravity feed anymore...glad I found it! 🖖🏿😎👍🏿
Thanks! New subscriber here! :-) I'm a pro. musician, husband and father, I have, always been interested in painting of all kinds. I started building guitars as a hobby, now I'm focusing on the paint finishes. The Videos, are very helpful to my wife, daughter an I. We're, all doing different guitar builds at the moment. We are looking forward to watching an learning from these well put together Videos you've made. :-)
Thank you! I actually just got done painting one yesterday. I've painted about 8 guitars for this guy. He's always had them 'ready to paint' This one was pink with a bigger white pearl over it with black graphics and pink pearl over the white. Came out excellent. I like doing the guitars! Have fun. Hope you learn lots!
Best instructional Ive seen thus far, and I've been doing this nearly 30 years, myself. Im always checking out what other painters are doing, and came across this dude. I'd have saved myself a lot of trial and error early on, if we'd had such a reference back then. Clear, concise, the hints are spot on, and his analogies are the kind that come naturally to teachers. And only teachers. But... because Im a perfectionist by nature😊.... heres an aside as Im watching: You'll always have enough paint for your custom paint job if you approach it like my mentor taught me. Once you figure up how much you'll need, add 30%, and then order. Once your paint arrives, open all of it and mix the paint in one large batch. Then put it back in the original containers. Before your spray the car (or whatever) hit a swatch for your records and be sure to include the formula. Then spray. Finally, whatever is left at the end, goes to the customer for their touch ups later. Trust me, theyll appreciate it! *OH! And in GNC, and other stores that sell protein powder ect, they also sell the sealed cups designed for that powdered stuff. They have a wire ball inside that really agitated and mixes like a champ. Throw that in your paint cup when spraying heavy solids (like flake).
Been doing all the work myself. It's been super busy and just haven't had time. Had some jobs that would have made cool videos, but just haven't had the time. Hope to get around to doing one soon...thanks!
I personally give it a little bit of time in-between coats even if its warm out. If you model or sag that its almost impossible to blend or fix unless you now decide to throw graphics over it LoL 😂😂😂🎉🎉🎉 i also spray it outside.
Thanks Matthew, I will be doing another flake video this week where I do stripes in metalflake with a black base. I'll be doing the metalflake stripes portion first. Subscribe and stay tuned
Loving the videos and just subscribed because this is the best instruction out there without all the hype they do. Wow man you get that flake to lay smooth, I'm using a 1.7m nozzle and the flake just gets blocked all the time, it was a 0.06mm silver flake in binder and if i get it going on the panels it just sicks up too much after the clear coat which was 3 coats of clear to bury the flake.
Thank you....using House of Kolor flakes for example, the UMF and the MF flakes are no problem. You get into the F flakes which are the larger, yes, they will stand up our of the interclear. You will need to resand your clear to smooth the surface out. Then either apply your candie(s) or reclear. THEN it will be smooth
@@TAZattitude Cheers man, maybe I'm expecting too much of the big flake so yer more clear after sanding. using mixed flakes as you say would give it an extra pop as well. 👍
You have to start somewhere. Don't get frustrated if those don't work out the way you want them to. Good guns and good quality materials go a long way.
Basically so I can clearcoat the bottom of the tank good. If this was a softail tank, I'd hang the front AND the rear so it's level (using 2 chains). This vedeo was showing the first clearing. For the second and final clearing, I masked up from weld to weld on the bottom ,then sanded the tank flat, put it on a stand, then I clearcoated it. Just makes a nicer job to clearcoat the bottom. No need to do this area twice.
I have watched numerous videos, you use the term metal flake. What is that, just flake mixed into clear. In another video you said you used bc02, you called it black metal flake with kandy tangerine. I tried to buy bc02 they said its silver base not flake. Trying to do my 1st flame job. So I want to get the same results you got. You make it look so easy.
Hi Bill - "Metalflake" really comes in a jar. It's basically 'glitter'. "Metallics" like BC-02 is a finer flakes. BC-02 is the coarser metallic made by House of Kolor. Normally when airbrushing flames, I use a finer metallic. The coarser metallics clog up an airbrush pretty quickly.
Just learning body and paint work. Really like this video. To the point with information we all are going to need with a few tips thrown in of what not to do. Worth Subscribing , When do we get to see the Suburban painting?
Thanks Chuck. LOTS of what not to do lol. Don't spray metalflake in your driveway, or your neighborhood will look like glitter city. As far as the Suburban. If you are talking the Patina, I had a vid on that th-cam.com/video/RRo0P_K0jyM/w-d-xo.html (I sold this one) If you are talking about my copper/black one. I do have a couple updates. Almost done with it. Just added AC and a Audison stereo setup th-cam.com/video/8c597mvW9vU/w-d-xo.html - a couple months ago th-cam.com/video/tyJrn_FKJFo/w-d-xo.html - first run th-cam.com/video/tyJrn_FKJFo/w-d-xo.html - old update Appreciate you subscribing!
Yes, you can do that. But if you go too much you're going to add more material that will be sandwiched under the topcoat clear. If you do add more blender, I would suggest adding a basecoat activator, or be sure and let all that material overnight. It will be dry to the touch, but will not really 'harden' quickly at all.
That is a LOT of work to do on a boat. You can use any flake you'd like. The smaller the size of the flake, the easier it is to work with. I normally use House of Kolor flakes, but have also used others.
Really no bugs get into the paint even doing the flake outside. Very seldom any dirt either. This paint job is so busy and so rough after clearcoating the first time, by the time you resand with 600DA and wetsand, it's nice and smooth again. Then candy candy and clear, or just clearcoat again
My thinking is that since I'm clearcoating to bury the flake with topcoat clear and that I'm only applying thi to get the flake to cover, I don't need to use a the thicker basecoat clear mix. So I use a lot of reducer instead of basecoat clear. Applying coat after coat of thick basecoat clear and flake mix may not dry since it doesn't have any hardener in it. NOW if you use basecoat clear and you do use basecoat hardener which they do have, I would guess this would work to. Just let it dry longer before applying topcoat. That's my thinking....been using the same technique (and mix) for years without any issues
You can, but I would suggest more like the PPG "Liquid Crystals" (the bigger pearls). Harley Tequila Sunrise is a good example. Just a solid orange with the pearls over the orange. www.google.com/search?sca_esv=cc84066b48f231dc&rlz=1C1UEAD_enUS932US932&sxsrf=AM9HkKkkGM9xtLRyH1YwYALSkUU9C2bhXA:1700044740850&q=harley+tequila+sunrise&tbm=isch&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjhtoWX6MWCAxWuQjABHQskDf4Q0pQJegQICBAB&biw=1396&bih=632&dpr=1.38
You could, but you want the flake to 'pop' best to spray a coat of black first, then the flake. I don't think you'll be happy with the overall look over a white. OR unless you completely cover the white. if you notice the H-D Hard Candy jobs, you can see the black through the flake. Imagine that with a white base under the black. Spraying a coat of black first shouldn't be that much extra work for you to do
Yes, I would go silver flake, clear, sand and get the surface flat, then change the 'panel' color by using candies over the flake. I would use House of Kolor KK to do this.
This is a great channel sir. Subscribed. Can I mask and stripe more flake over colorblend/flake/reducer base or does it have to be cleared first? I'm assuming tape will pull the flake off. I've never used colorblend, only activator. What is the advantage of using color blend over activator if colorblend has to be cleared before striping? Thank you
That's really not suggested since it will already be a thick paint job. My suggestion is to lay some flake and use that flake for all colors. Changing the flake color by using candies Clearcoat and resand FIRST before doing this. Get the surface flat THEN change the colors of your paint job with the candies. I would suggest silver or gold flake depending the overall colors you want to achieve I did this metalflake job using just the base candy. I changed the colors using HOK Kandy Koncentrates. th-cam.com/video/VBJqaehMVSw/w-d-xo.html Thanks for subscribing
I am about to flake a hood scoop Never done it before I have painted the scoop black and am going to use black flake. I was going to add the flake to clear coat, shoot a couple coats and the strait clear over. Does thar sound right ???
Sure, that should work. If it comes out 'rough' you may have to sand it and recclear. OR, be sure and put quite a few coats of clear on it. All this really depends on the size of the flake. A small flake, you will be fine with a normal clearing plus maybe an extra coat.
Good question, Black tends to make the flake 'sparkle' more, but I have used a gold or silver metallic base before. This tends to make the overall appearance a little brighter and can take less flake - a little easier for the novice. Like using a gold base with gold flake, silver metallic with a silver flake
I really know nothing about water base paint. BUT since 'flake' is not a paint, I wouldn't think you'd have a problem with it. I'm assuming it's a clear water paint. I don't know how many coats, nor the process involved.
Sure, that is actually recommended. I normally spray black, let is sit for about 5-10 min, then spray your flake mix directly over it. No need to sand the black. OR, if you have silver flake, you can spray a silver base instead of black. I think the black base makes the flake pop more though
I’m thinking to do my car it has winning blue paint (rx8) but I want to pull it apart and paint like this. Chrome blue or something similar starting from scratch will buy everything and rent a garage for few months. Will it need a black or dark under coat ? Any tips will help I’m looking at chopped carbon fibre resin on the roof too like my splitter Iv got wrap on the roof now but will pour resin over now
I always go with a black sealer if a dark color. Medium sealer if it's a medium type color. I only really use white for solid reds, yellows, whites, cream colors
Spray a black base, spray silver (or gold) flake, spray extra clearcoat, sand with 600 grit DA, wetsand with 1000 grit, get the surface flat as possible. Spray candy tangerine over that, reclear, sand and reclear one more time. That should give you a very deep candy orange looking flake job. Id suggest a mix of MF01 and MF01 along with base clear
The bigger flakes will require a bigger setup. 1.4 is my max, but I do have another gun that puts out more. There was a gun called the flake buster but I really didn't like it the much. If you can get ahold of a old school siphon fed with about a 1.5+, these work great. Put a nut in the bottom of the cup and shake it everyonce in awhile. I used to use the ole' Binks #7 gun for this
@@TAZattitude .. I definitely look up what all that means.. Brand new to the airbrush/paintgun world, Done many Lowrider(custom bicycles) projects using rattle cans, learned the time/stages. I appreciate your feedback. THANKS BROTHA
That's some great work Scott -I have to say I'm having serious problems with my metal flake. I applied monster (0.040") silver flake with the Flake King 1000 dry flake gun over a black base coat and binder, and although I've got it all flaked, I'm only 4 coats of intercoat clear in, and I'm not even CLOSE to burying the flake. It's like gravel!!! It's like an unknown with this stuff, as no-one has any advice. I've had to order another 2 litres of intercoat clear which is a recommended 2:1 mix with reducer. I'm getting a bit nervous for my sanity now and not sure of the best way forward. I can't turn back now! Any suggestions...?
FYI, Someone who supplies this 0.040 size monster flake is telling me I will NEVER, EVER bury this metal flake on a bike tank using multiple layers of intercoat clear coat, and to use some kind of thick "Gel Coat" instead, as used on fibreglass boats?! Or "High Solid" clear coat, which presumably requires a much larger nozzle. This is driving me nuts!, as I've spent so much money to get this far, only to be told it's not going to work, and no-one in the UK, even suppliers, has any definitive advice. In your expert opinion Scott, can my idea be salvaged? or do I have to ditch the whole thing, count my losses and strip it all off again?
You keep mentioning trying to bury with intercoat clear. You need to apply the flake with the intercoat. then coat the 'rough' surface with topcoat clear. Resand this, then apply the topcoat again. Just like this and the video mention. This should get the surface smooth. If not, you can resand once again, then reclear with top coat again. If you keep applying an interclear, that will never harden under the topcoat clear. By the way, the way they make fiberglass boats is backwards. The clear gel first, then the flake, so when they bring it out of the mold, the top is already smooth. It's like doing an RC car body when you paint it from the inside.
If you see the youtube' thumbnail' of this video with the tank hanging up, it shows after I sprayed topcoat clear after coating the parts with 4-5 coats of the flake/interclear mix. NO burying with just plain interclear.
@@TAZattitude -That's because I was applying the metal flake "dry" with a separate gun, straight onto a binder coat, and then trying to bury it. It was proving so difficult with so little information on the pitfalls of this method that I'm ditching the dry flake idea now and going with the old school method that you're using. Thanks again for all your help Scott, your videos and attentive advice are very helpful. Keep it up.
@@1071jmkz I think that method would work to, but right after you spray the flake, just switch over to topcoat clear. The problem with the dry method is the flake is sitting on top of the base clear so you have to spray even more topcoat clear to bury. At least with spraying it with the baseclear/flake mix, it gets partially buried so it should take a little less topcoat. Appreciate the reply. Glad you are enjoying the videos. hope that flake job works out. Sand it 'fairly' smooth, spray with topcoat clear. Resand and respray with even more topcoat clear if needed. You should still be fine.
I noticed you use Omni reducer. I just purchased the medallion color blander and I got the gallon of fast reducer cheaper than what the Omni cost. Is there a reason you use Omni instead of Medallion reducer?
I go through the reducer pretty quickly so if I need some, I can order it and have it delivered within a couple hours from my jobber right up the road from me. If I used Medallion reducer, I'd have to wait about 4-6 days for it. I get about 3 months out of the Medallion blender/basecoat.
Thanks for the help. I can’t tell you how much it means to get help from someone with your knowledge. You have answered every question I have ask I had to try the medallion color blender after watching all you videos. I live in Georgia I ordered it yesterday and it arrived before noon today. Those folks are super friendly I was shocked at how fast they delivered. I have been using HOK and Trans Nebulae or SG100 to mix my flake but it’s just to expensive so I’m going to try this. You can’t beat the price. A gallons is almost less than a quarts of HOK . I can’t wait to get started. Now I just need to find a good clear. I’m thinking about TAMCO Products. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks again. 👍👍👍🙏
@@ronjon5386 I appreciate that. I use 4 main clears. Medallion hi solids, HOK UC-35, and ShopLine JC6700 and JC630. For motorcycles, and auto spot jobs I like the Medallion clear. Glad to hear you ordered the Medallion color blender. I used to use the SG-100 as well and you are right. One gallon of the Medallion is not much more than the SG-100. HOK used to be good in pricing about 15 years ago. Their UC35 was $93 when I opened in '02. Now it's over $200 gallon.
@@TAZattitude THANK YOU. sorry for all the questions. Do you have any videos on how you mix your candy’s. I have found many different way I was just wondering if you have a video on that. THANKS AGAIN
@@ronjon5386 Hi Ron, Sorry I do not. If you are doing an overall or a complete motorcycle set, using HOK UK's is a good choice since it's already pre-made and will spray glossy when you are painting.
@@TAZattitude Thanks for replying man, I appreciate it. Yeah, I use clear base too but I just wondered whether color blender was a different product to clear base. I think it may just be a naming thing, so in the US it could be called color blender and in the uk, we call it clear base. Is that a reasonable assumption?
@@TAZattitude I'm finding your channel super helpful by the way, I'm learning a lot. I'm fairly new to flake and candies, I've had no training, I'm just having a go. I am an experienced auto paint sprayer but flake and candy is something new to me. I watch lots of videos and your channel is one of the best I've found. 😁👍
@@johnniemnemonic73 I think it's a name thing as this is what I use to mix the flake in which is a thicker base clear. medallionrefinish.com/products/refinish-products/additives/color-blender Medallion also has a color blender that is very thin. I use this to do my clear blends. Both have the same name
@@TAZattitude it did look a bit tight on the video, no offence intended there's nothing wrong with your workmanship, what I should have said was, I would have needed more room, I'm always bumping into something 🙈
@@sll-tt6bj Not really, if you find your first coat is not covering that good, go ahead and add more flake. I try to limit it to about 6 coats of so. BE SURE to give the flake/base clear a good amount of time to sit before clearcoating, otherwise you'll be sandwiching a LOT of material between the base and the clearcoat.
Though I do have pictures of metalflake jobs, it's hard to take good "pics" of a metalflake job. You really need a video to show it in the sun so you can see the sparkle I probably could have added one more segment on the video with it in the sun though. Pretty sure I have a video showing one of the jobs in the sunlight - thank you
Yep, that's why you sand and reclear. If you've ever seen 'glitter', or metalflake in person, its very rough. The clear gathers around it when you spray it. Once you sand, reclear, wetsand and buff, it's nice and flat
Thank you, yes, I understand. I just pulled the mask away from my face when I talked. The only other way, would be just to paint without a mask which I'd rather not do. Appreciate the comment though.
Yes, different sized flakes, how big the job is, weather, how much coverage, all play a part. Of course, the more flake you add, the faster it's going to cover. Also, bigger flakes take up more volume. When you start spraying, you will get the "fee" of how fast it is covering. You'll also be able to gauge at how much you want the parts covered. Flakes are different than dealing with basecoats and clearcoats
Thanks....Really depends on how it's mixed. If you use the FlakeBuster, probaby 1-3 coats would do it since it's straight flake. It also depends on how much coverage you want. If you want the base covered, of course spray until covered (or spray a color close to the flake color which in this case would be a blue metallic which will make it faster to "appear" to give the flake full coverage. OR if you just want some of the black to show up through like the Harley Hard Candy jobs, spray until the desired coverage, which could be 1-3 coats.
@@TAZattitude when i do mine I just use a basic shitty Home Depot 1.8 tip gun with innercoat clear and 3 passes is plenty for a full covered flake. I also use a metallic silver sealer as the base to give it even more pop
@@riffraffchoppers Have to check into that 1.8 gun as I only use a 1.4. Used to use a siphon fed (with a bolt in the cup) but I quit using it. Silver base with silver flake would be an ideal choice
@@TAZattitude oh ya I don’t even know how you can spray flake with a 1.4!! That’s crazy the gun prob cloggs all the time huh? Even a 1.8 will start to clog a little. Try it it’s waaay better
Word. I am trying to learn to paint and all the videos audio are worthless, I cant understand anything they say. Keep up the great work...@@TAZattitude
By far the best custom paint channel not a bunch of loud rock music and no instruction , thank you
I appreciate it Julie!!! thanks again.
As a custom painter glad to see there are more channels out there doing help videos for people wanting to get into the scene. Thanks
Good to pay it forward
I have an old syphon feed Devillebiss that I picked up at a yard sale for $20 a couple years ago specifically for my project truck... I have some Harbor Freight sprayers, but I wanted a really good one for this paint job... I got no problem spraying primer with those other ones, but I knew I was gonna have to save up for a good one when it comes time for color, then I found that one & it was suction feed... I snapped that joker up quick! Lol! Good to hear that a suction feed works best for flake if you're more relaxed... I don't like feeling pressured to hurry, I operate slowly & methodically, so having to rush with the gravity feed doesn't appeal to me...& most places have nothing but gravity feed anymore...glad I found it! 🖖🏿😎👍🏿
Thanks! New subscriber here! :-) I'm a pro. musician, husband and father, I have, always been interested in painting of all kinds. I started building guitars as a hobby, now I'm focusing on the paint finishes. The Videos, are very helpful to my wife, daughter an I. We're, all doing different guitar builds at the moment. We are looking forward to watching an learning from these well put together Videos you've made. :-)
Thank you! I actually just got done painting one yesterday. I've painted about 8 guitars for this guy.
He's always had them 'ready to paint'
This one was pink with a bigger white pearl over it with black graphics and pink pearl over the white. Came out excellent. I like doing the guitars! Have fun. Hope you learn lots!
Good professional demonstration and expert instructions on metal flake paint jobs
Appreciate it Timothy!
Best instructional Ive seen thus far, and I've been doing this nearly 30 years, myself. Im always checking out what other painters are doing, and came across this dude. I'd have saved myself a lot of trial and error early on, if we'd had such a reference back then. Clear, concise, the hints are spot on, and his analogies are the kind that come naturally to teachers. And only teachers.
But... because Im a perfectionist by nature😊.... heres an aside as Im watching:
You'll always have enough paint for your custom paint job if you approach it like my mentor taught me.
Once you figure up how much you'll need, add 30%, and then order. Once your paint arrives, open all of it and mix the paint in one large batch. Then put it back in the original containers. Before your spray the car (or whatever) hit a swatch for your records and be sure to include the formula. Then spray.
Finally, whatever is left at the end, goes to the customer for their touch ups later. Trust me, theyll appreciate it!
*OH! And in GNC, and other stores that sell protein powder ect, they also sell the sealed cups designed for that powdered stuff. They have a wire ball inside that really agitated and mixes like a champ. Throw that in your paint cup when spraying heavy solids (like flake).
Good additional tips there!
I appreciate your videos, great teaching ! And nice to see a pro at work.
I appreciate that!
Haven't seen any new video lately , miss the talented content
Been doing all the work myself. It's been super busy and just haven't had time. Had some jobs that would have made cool videos, but just haven't had the time. Hope to get around to doing one soon...thanks!
I personally give it a little bit of time in-between coats even if its warm out. If you model or sag that its almost impossible to blend or fix unless you now decide to throw graphics over it LoL 😂😂😂🎉🎉🎉 i also spray it outside.
You got that right. Putting a run in metaflake is not fun to fix
Love the speed from panel to panel and the number of coats. That's going to be a very consistent and flash job.
Thank you Michael. I just finished another metaflake job yesterday. A mix of silver and gold flake coated with pagan gold candy.
Your videos always have great instructions. Thank you
I appreciate the Lucus. Trying to get better at videoing and explaining the tips and tricks better
Blown away , I will be doing my hydrostream with this technique.
Thanks Matthew, I will be doing another flake video this week where I do stripes in metalflake with a black base. I'll be doing the metalflake stripes portion first. Subscribe and stay tuned
Looks like a lot of flake killer job
Came out great.... I appreciate the comment!
Loving the videos and just subscribed because this is the best instruction out there without all the hype they do. Wow man you get that flake to lay smooth, I'm using a 1.7m nozzle and the flake just gets blocked all the time, it was a 0.06mm silver flake in binder and if i get it going on the panels it just sicks up too much after the clear coat which was 3 coats of clear to bury the flake.
Thank you....using House of Kolor flakes for example, the UMF and the MF flakes are no problem. You get into the F flakes which are the larger, yes, they will stand up our of the interclear. You will need to resand your clear to smooth the surface out. Then either apply your candie(s) or reclear. THEN it will be smooth
Another tip is if you are using the big flakes, to mix some smaller and or medium with them to use as a 'filler'
@@TAZattitude Cheers man, maybe I'm expecting too much of the big flake so yer more clear after sanding. using mixed flakes as you say would give it an extra pop as well. 👍
It will make it cover better as well.
Great Job looks awesome
Thank you Gabriel. Glad you enjoyed the video
I'm new but with that small amount of intercoat and all that reducer that's causing your quick settling. Good vid.
I've done quite a few flake jobs. No issues. You can add quite a bit more interclear, but I'd suggest adding base hardener Thank you
As a do it myselfer I to have started playing with rustolum and cheep harborfraigt praygun thanks
You have to start somewhere. Don't get frustrated if those don't work out the way you want them to. Good guns and good quality materials go a long way.
That blue is awesome what's the big advantage of hanging the tank to paint versus being on a stand.
Basically so I can clearcoat the bottom of the tank good. If this was a softail tank, I'd hang the front AND the rear so it's level (using 2 chains). This vedeo was showing the first clearing. For the second and final clearing, I masked up from weld to weld on the bottom ,then sanded the tank flat, put it on a stand, then I clearcoated it.
Just makes a nicer job to clearcoat the bottom. No need to do this area twice.
@@TAZattitude got it thanks
I have watched numerous videos, you use the term metal flake. What is that, just flake mixed into clear. In another video you said you used bc02, you called it black metal flake with kandy tangerine. I tried to buy bc02 they said its silver base not flake. Trying to do my 1st flame job. So I want to get the same results you got. You make it look so easy.
Hi Bill - "Metalflake" really comes in a jar. It's basically 'glitter'. "Metallics" like BC-02 is a finer flakes. BC-02 is the coarser metallic made by House of Kolor. Normally when airbrushing flames, I use a finer metallic. The coarser metallics clog up an airbrush pretty quickly.
Thanks!
No problem!
Just learning body and paint work. Really like this video. To the point with information we all are going to need with a few tips thrown in of what not to do. Worth Subscribing , When do we get to see the Suburban painting?
Thanks Chuck. LOTS of what not to do lol. Don't spray metalflake in your driveway, or your neighborhood will look like glitter city.
As far as the Suburban. If you are talking the Patina, I had a vid on that
th-cam.com/video/RRo0P_K0jyM/w-d-xo.html (I sold this one)
If you are talking about my copper/black one. I do have a couple updates.
Almost done with it. Just added AC and a Audison stereo setup
th-cam.com/video/8c597mvW9vU/w-d-xo.html - a couple months ago
th-cam.com/video/tyJrn_FKJFo/w-d-xo.html - first run
th-cam.com/video/tyJrn_FKJFo/w-d-xo.html - old update
Appreciate you subscribing!
Love your videos! It’s good to learn new tips and tricks. What would you say your PSI is at while spraying the flake?
Thank you Jason! I don't really pay attention to it but if I had to guess, I'd say about 30-35lbs or so
One time I sprayed gold metal flake and my drive way looked like the yellow brick road. Lol
lol...yes, it does make a mess which is why I like just spraying it out front and not in the spray booth.
@@TAZattitude , I do like creating paint jobs or one off anything, your name is on everything you do, I dig your work, Great job
You might want to use more blender to help suspend the flake ?
Yes, you can do that. But if you go too much you're going to add more material that will be sandwiched under the topcoat clear. If you do add more blender, I would suggest adding a basecoat activator, or be sure and let all that material overnight. It will be dry to the touch, but will not really 'harden' quickly at all.
I am painting my aluminum boat and I’m trying to put metal flake and of course polyurethane. What brands and types would you recommend?
That is a LOT of work to do on a boat. You can use any flake you'd like. The smaller the size of the flake, the easier it is to work with. I normally use House of Kolor flakes, but have also used others.
Looks awesome. How would you handle bugs or dust nibs that land on the metal flake coat before clear?
Really no bugs get into the paint even doing the flake outside. Very seldom any dirt either. This paint job is so busy and so rough after clearcoating the first time, by the time you resand with 600DA and wetsand, it's nice and smooth again. Then candy candy and clear, or just clearcoat again
Interesting your flake mix is mostly reducer instead of intercoat.Advantages in doing this?
My thinking is that since I'm clearcoating to bury the flake with topcoat clear and that I'm only applying thi to get the flake to cover, I don't need to use a the thicker basecoat clear mix.
So I use a lot of reducer instead of basecoat clear.
Applying coat after coat of thick basecoat clear and flake mix may not dry since it doesn't have any hardener in it. NOW if you use basecoat clear and you do use basecoat hardener which they do have, I would guess this would work to. Just let it dry longer before applying topcoat. That's my thinking....been using the same technique (and mix) for years without any issues
Can I add flake to an existing car already painted from factory with a solid firetruck color? I want to add more pop to it
You can, but I would suggest more like the PPG "Liquid Crystals" (the bigger pearls).
Harley Tequila Sunrise is a good example. Just a solid orange with the pearls over the orange.
www.google.com/search?sca_esv=cc84066b48f231dc&rlz=1C1UEAD_enUS932US932&sxsrf=AM9HkKkkGM9xtLRyH1YwYALSkUU9C2bhXA:1700044740850&q=harley+tequila+sunrise&tbm=isch&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjhtoWX6MWCAxWuQjABHQskDf4Q0pQJegQICBAB&biw=1396&bih=632&dpr=1.38
Can you spray over a white base coat from a original paint job. I just sanded it down just passed the old clear to get a good adhesive base?
You could, but you want the flake to 'pop' best to spray a coat of black first, then the flake. I don't think you'll be happy with the overall look over a white. OR unless you completely cover the white. if you notice the H-D Hard Candy jobs, you can see the black through the flake. Imagine that with a white base under the black.
Spraying a coat of black first shouldn't be that much extra work for you to do
Hello can you tell me what size tip is on your gun for that size flake.
Thank you, great video
I used a 1/4. Anything bigger would work even better. I used to use a Binks 7 for this but it got old and tired lol
Great vid.Watched a couple times. If they wanted any panel work done would you have gone with silver flake and blue candy?
Yes, I would go silver flake, clear, sand and get the surface flat, then change the 'panel' color by using candies over the flake. I would use House of Kolor KK to do this.
This is a great channel sir. Subscribed. Can I mask and stripe more flake over colorblend/flake/reducer base or does it have to be cleared first? I'm assuming tape will pull the flake off. I've never used colorblend, only activator. What is the advantage of using color blend over activator if colorblend has to be cleared before striping? Thank you
That's really not suggested since it will already be a thick paint job. My suggestion is to lay some flake and use that flake for all colors. Changing the flake color by using candies
Clearcoat and resand FIRST before doing this. Get the surface flat
THEN change the colors of your paint job with the candies. I would suggest silver or gold flake depending the overall colors you want to achieve
I did this metalflake job using just the base candy. I changed the colors using HOK Kandy Koncentrates.
th-cam.com/video/VBJqaehMVSw/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for subscribing
I am about to flake a hood scoop Never done it before I have painted the scoop black and am going to use black flake. I was going to add the flake to clear coat, shoot a couple coats and the strait clear over. Does thar sound right ???
Sure, that should work. If it comes out 'rough' you may have to sand it and recclear. OR, be sure and put quite a few coats of clear on it. All this really depends on the size of the flake. A small flake, you will be fine with a normal clearing plus maybe an extra coat.
Have you ever used gray or white as a base?
Good question, Black tends to make the flake 'sparkle' more, but I have used a gold or silver metallic base before. This tends to make the overall appearance a little brighter and can take less flake - a little easier for the novice. Like using a gold base with gold flake, silver metallic with a silver flake
Can I mix water paint and metal flakes for painting on paperboard
I really know nothing about water base paint. BUT since 'flake' is not a paint, I wouldn't think you'd have a problem with it. I'm assuming it's a clear water paint. I don't know how many coats, nor the process involved.
Did you use harbor freight "roller stands" for your fender holders/rack
I did they look similar to the ones I did
The first stands I did about 20 years ago were the welded Craftsman stands. The newer stands I purchased online
I put up a video a few weeks ago about the stands
Do you have to spry this over black, or can it be over any color?
It can be over any color, but the black makes the flake 'pop' more. Sometimes I'll use silver metallic as the base.
Could you apply the color blender with the flake over a freshly laid basecoat? Seeing as it’s mostly reducer, would it work over fresh basecoat?
Sure, that is actually recommended. I normally spray black, let is sit for about 5-10 min, then spray your flake mix directly over it. No need to sand the black.
OR, if you have silver flake, you can spray a silver base instead of black. I think the black base makes the flake pop more though
@@scottf4249 thanks for the reply. You do amazing work, will subscribe and follow :)
Awesome! I appreciate that! Hope to get the videos back in full swing. Still trying to get my feet under me after my wife's passing
I’m thinking to do my car it has winning blue paint (rx8) but I want to pull it apart and paint like this. Chrome blue or something similar starting from scratch will buy everything and rent a garage for few months. Will it need a black or dark under coat ? Any tips will help
I’m looking at chopped carbon fibre resin on the roof too like my splitter Iv got wrap on the roof now but will pour resin over now
I always go with a black sealer if a dark color. Medium sealer if it's a medium type color. I only really use white for solid reds, yellows, whites, cream colors
Hello from turkey,can you help me for this paint techniq,im painter in istanbul,and i want do metalflake orange to my cbr1100xx
Spray a black base, spray silver (or gold) flake, spray extra clearcoat, sand with 600 grit DA, wetsand with 1000 grit, get the surface flat as possible. Spray candy tangerine over that, reclear, sand and reclear one more time. That should give you a very deep candy orange looking flake job.
Id suggest a mix of MF01 and MF01 along with base clear
Are you spraying at 20 psi or do you recommend anywhere between 20 and 30 psi
Anywhere in that range should be fine.
Can you use any "Flake" in a airbrush gun?
The bigger flakes will require a bigger setup. 1.4 is my max, but I do have another gun that puts out more. There was a gun called the flake buster but I really didn't like it the much.
If you can get ahold of a old school siphon fed with about a 1.5+, these work great. Put a nut in the bottom of the cup and shake it everyonce in awhile. I used to use the ole' Binks #7 gun for this
@@TAZattitude .. I definitely look up what all that means.. Brand new to the airbrush/paintgun world, Done many Lowrider(custom bicycles) projects using rattle cans, learned the time/stages. I appreciate your feedback. THANKS BROTHA
That's some great work Scott -I have to say I'm having serious problems with my metal flake. I applied monster (0.040") silver flake with the Flake King 1000 dry flake gun over a black base coat and binder, and although I've got it all flaked, I'm only 4 coats of intercoat clear in, and I'm not even CLOSE to burying the flake. It's like gravel!!! It's like an unknown with this stuff, as no-one has any advice. I've had to order another 2 litres of intercoat clear which is a recommended 2:1 mix with reducer. I'm getting a bit nervous for my sanity now and not sure of the best way forward. I can't turn back now! Any suggestions...?
FYI, Someone who supplies this 0.040 size monster flake is telling me I will NEVER, EVER bury this metal flake on a bike tank using multiple layers of intercoat clear coat, and to use some kind of thick "Gel Coat" instead, as used on fibreglass boats?! Or "High Solid" clear coat, which presumably requires a much larger nozzle. This is driving me nuts!, as I've spent so much money to get this far, only to be told it's not going to work, and no-one in the UK, even suppliers, has any definitive advice. In your expert opinion Scott, can my idea be salvaged? or do I have to ditch the whole thing, count my losses and strip it all off again?
You keep mentioning trying to bury with intercoat clear. You need to apply the flake with the intercoat. then coat the 'rough' surface with topcoat clear.
Resand this, then apply the topcoat again. Just like this and the video mention.
This should get the surface smooth. If not, you can resand once again, then reclear with top coat again.
If you keep applying an interclear, that will never harden under the topcoat clear.
By the way, the way they make fiberglass boats is backwards. The clear gel first, then the flake, so when they bring it out of the mold, the top is already smooth.
It's like doing an RC car body when you paint it from the inside.
If you see the youtube' thumbnail' of this video with the tank hanging up, it shows after I sprayed topcoat clear after coating the parts with 4-5 coats of the flake/interclear mix. NO burying with just plain interclear.
@@TAZattitude -That's because I was applying the metal flake "dry" with a separate gun, straight onto a binder coat, and then trying to bury it. It was proving so difficult with so little information on the pitfalls of this method that I'm ditching the dry flake idea now and going with the old school method that you're using. Thanks again for all your help Scott, your videos and attentive advice are very helpful. Keep it up.
@@1071jmkz I think that method would work to, but right after you spray the flake, just switch over to topcoat clear. The problem with the dry method is the flake is sitting on top of the base clear so you have to spray even more topcoat clear to bury. At least with spraying it with the baseclear/flake mix, it gets partially buried so it should take a little less topcoat.
Appreciate the reply. Glad you are enjoying the videos. hope that flake job works out. Sand it 'fairly' smooth, spray with topcoat clear. Resand and respray with even more topcoat clear if needed. You should still be fine.
I noticed you use Omni reducer. I just purchased the medallion color blander and I got the gallon of fast reducer cheaper than what the Omni cost. Is there a reason you use Omni instead of Medallion reducer?
I go through the reducer pretty quickly so if I need some, I can order it and have it delivered within a couple hours from my jobber right up the road from me. If I used Medallion reducer, I'd have to wait about 4-6 days for it.
I get about 3 months out of the Medallion blender/basecoat.
Thanks for the help. I can’t tell you how much it means to get help from someone with your knowledge. You have answered every question I have ask I had to try the medallion color blender after watching all you videos. I live in Georgia I ordered it yesterday and it arrived before noon today. Those folks are super friendly I was shocked at how fast they delivered. I have been using HOK and Trans Nebulae or SG100 to mix my flake but it’s just to expensive so I’m going to try this. You can’t beat the price. A gallons is almost less than a quarts of HOK . I can’t wait to get started. Now I just need to find a good clear. I’m thinking about TAMCO Products. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks again. 👍👍👍🙏
@@ronjon5386 I appreciate that. I use 4 main clears. Medallion hi solids, HOK UC-35, and ShopLine JC6700 and JC630.
For motorcycles, and auto spot jobs I like the Medallion clear.
Glad to hear you ordered the Medallion color blender. I used to use the SG-100 as well and you are right. One gallon of the Medallion is not much more than the SG-100. HOK used to be good in pricing about 15 years ago. Their UC35 was $93 when I opened in '02. Now it's over $200 gallon.
@@TAZattitude THANK YOU. sorry for all the questions. Do you have any videos on how you mix your candy’s. I have found many different way I was just wondering if you have a video on that. THANKS AGAIN
@@ronjon5386 Hi Ron, Sorry I do not. If you are doing an overall or a complete motorcycle set, using HOK UK's is a good choice since it's already pre-made and will spray glossy when you are painting.
what size nozzle do you use? And you say low pressure?
I use a 1.4 setup. I would suggest that at a minimum
What size tip on gun
I use a 1.4 on the medium size, 1.6 on larger, but I use another gun for those
What is “color blender”? I’m from the UK so I don’t know, sorry. Is it clear basecoat? Is it the same thing? Thanks in advance. 👍
Hi, I always use a clear basecoat to mix the flake in.
@@TAZattitude Thanks for replying man, I appreciate it. Yeah, I use clear base too but I just wondered whether color blender was a different product to clear base. I think it may just be a naming thing, so in the US it could be called color blender and in the uk, we call it clear base. Is that a reasonable assumption?
@@TAZattitude I'm finding your channel super helpful by the way, I'm learning a lot. I'm fairly new to flake and candies, I've had no training, I'm just having a go. I am an experienced auto paint sprayer but flake and candy is something new to me. I watch lots of videos and your channel is one of the best I've found. 😁👍
@@johnniemnemonic73 I think it's a name thing as this is what I use to mix the flake in which is a thicker base clear.
medallionrefinish.com/products/refinish-products/additives/color-blender
Medallion also has a color blender that is very thin. I use this to do my clear blends. Both have the same name
@@TAZattitude Thanks man, I really appreciate your feedback. I'll check this stuff out. 👍
Is this method better than intervoat for flake?
I use intercoat clear (basecoat clear) for the flake. You can always apply basecoat hardener in the clear if you wanted to.
Where is your shop located
Tampa, Fl area
I would have left more space between the parts I was painting in case of accidentally bumping into them 🙈
They probably look closer in the video than they really were. I've had 15 piece bagger sets in there with no problem. 23' long booth
@@TAZattitude it did look a bit tight on the video, no offence intended there's nothing wrong with your workmanship, what I should have said was, I would have needed more room, I'm always bumping into something 🙈
Why the blue metal flake over black base why not a metallic blue Base
So this way, all you see is the blue flake. No 'metallic' from the blue metallic from the blue base will show through.
@@TAZattitude thanks , is there a limit to how many coats when you mix with the intercoat clear ?
@@sll-tt6bj Not really, if you find your first coat is not covering that good, go ahead and add more flake. I try to limit it to about 6 coats of so. BE SURE to give the flake/base clear a good amount of time to sit before clearcoating, otherwise you'll be sandwiching a LOT of material between the base and the clearcoat.
woovida boovida foobida, vvvb, vvvb!
Sound was not good
Probably the segment where I was wearing a GoPro or I was in the spray booth
Don't understand why guy finish a video, then don't show end results in the SUN!
Though I do have pictures of metalflake jobs, it's hard to take good "pics" of a metalflake job.
You really need a video to show it in the sun so you can see the sparkle
I probably could have added one more segment on the video with it in the sun though. Pretty sure I have a video showing one of the jobs in the sunlight - thank you
Orange peel city.
Yep, that's why you sand and reclear. If you've ever seen 'glitter', or metalflake in person, its very rough. The clear gathers around it when you spray it. Once you sand, reclear, wetsand and buff, it's nice and flat
Sorry mate, very hard to hear and understand what your saying when wearing the mask
Thank you, yes, I understand. I just pulled the mask away from my face when I talked.
The only other way, would be just to paint without a mask which I'd rather not do.
Appreciate the comment though.
TAZattitude It's hard to paint and talk with the mask on.
@@davekeogh ...yea....AND a GO Pro on. Between that and the respirator, I had more straps on than a stri.... oh forget it
I could hear him just fine
you never measured anything ... every mix will be different..
Yes, different sized flakes, how big the job is, weather, how much coverage, all play a part. Of course, the more flake you add, the faster it's going to cover. Also, bigger flakes take up more volume. When you start spraying, you will get the "fee" of how fast it is covering. You'll also be able to gauge at how much you want the parts covered.
Flakes are different than dealing with basecoats and clearcoats
Waaaaaaay to many coats of flake that’s really not needed 3 coats should be enough to completely cover those small tins
Thanks....Really depends on how it's mixed. If you use the FlakeBuster, probaby 1-3 coats would do it since it's straight flake.
It also depends on how much coverage you want. If you want the base covered, of course spray until covered (or spray a color close to the flake color which in this case would be a blue metallic which will make it faster to "appear" to give the flake full coverage. OR if you just want some of the black to show up through like the Harley Hard Candy jobs, spray until the desired coverage, which could be 1-3 coats.
@@TAZattitude when i do mine I just use a basic shitty Home Depot 1.8 tip gun with innercoat clear and 3 passes is plenty for a full covered flake. I also use a metallic silver sealer as the base to give it even more pop
@@riffraffchoppers Have to check into that 1.8 gun as I only use a 1.4. Used to use a siphon fed (with a bolt in the cup) but I quit using it. Silver base with silver flake would be an ideal choice
@@TAZattitude oh ya I don’t even know how you can spray flake with a 1.4!! That’s crazy the gun prob cloggs all the time huh? Even a 1.8 will start to clog a little. Try it it’s waaay better
Please take your mask off hommer....
Not a mask. It's a go-pro. It's in a plastic case. If it's not in a case, when spraying it will get overspray over it.
Word. I am trying to learn to paint and all the videos audio are worthless, I cant understand anything they say. Keep up the great work...@@TAZattitude
Appreciate it. Most of the videos I don't use the Gopro and case, definitely makes the words seem 'mumbled
' words