I got this one cheap and he said it used to start, when I got inside I saw a couple problems. Thanks for watching! Don't forget to LIKE, SUBSCRIBE and COMMENT! I respond to all comments. Thanks
@John Klem 🤣 No, he seemed decent, but I got it t $20. it was the right thing to meet him halfway. Dallas is big, and it's a decent ride from one side to the other
@John Klem oh I know. 🙂 I get my fair share of ... curious(?) people when buying and selling, but this one was just a guy with a saw he couldn't figure it.
Ya with all chainsaws its good to learn how to work on them even the name brands can get issues and most are an easy fix well sort-a easy lots of TH-cam videos to help us out.
I enjoy making them too! There is nothing like hearing a motor kick to life. The fixes for chainsaws are just about all the same, regardless of the brand. I treat $1,000 Stihl's the same as I treat $99 store brand saws, always the same problems, always the same fixes. 👍
@@GuysPlayingWithTools That's why I watch Vice Grip Garage and Diesel Creek on youtube that's there gig getting really old stuff to kick back to life, really good shows....
If you like the old stuff, I have one coming up just you will love, an old JD mower with the original design rear wheel drive. It's so brutal, it's cool.
I'm attempting to tune my "new" Eager Beaver 32cc saw. My take away from this video is 1. turn up the idle screw, so it isn't the problem. 2. set L out 1.5 turns 3. Start the saw and set the L so it has good low end & idles nice. 4. Set the H so it has top end. 5. Back the idle screw down so the chain does not move at idle. Adjusting the L may be necessary, as you lower the idle screw. As you adjust the L, it may be necessary to adjust the H again. Repeat cycle until chain does not move at idle, and the L&H are harmonious. Did I miss anything?
Tom, you are good. You got it all perfect. 1 thing. but judging by your list, I think you sissy know... If it idles ok and bogs when you rev it, play with the H Screw
Only thing I do is rotate between the two saws and keep carb adjustment tool in my pocket when using them Plus I spray caps off with brake cleaner before adding fluids😊😊😊
Good suggestion. Saws tend to get more than the average amount of garbage in the tanks in the field. I have a habit of carrying a rag to wipe the gas tank and cap area before filling them outdoors
@@BensWorkshop That was for the next one, this one did. Up today is a vid on a blower tune up, it didn't have spark when I started. Sorry, I wasn't very specific, it was on my mind because I released it as I was looking at comments.
Nice condition saw there Bill, interesting to see so many of your saws are strato! Never seen one on homeowner equipment before, though much of what I work on is 10+ years old and a lot changes in that time!
@GuysPlayingWithTools I bought a poulan pro for 30 bucks not running but I found that the gas line was broken inside I put a new gas line and now it runs in a full super fast like a full throttle please help
@@rodger6940 hi Rodger, You got it running, that's the hard part. Chainsaws can be tricky. No worries, it's most likely the linkage for the carb is either tied up in the fuel lines or hanging on the choke linkage. The first 2 things I would check are: 1) With the saw off, pull the choke out and then squeeze the throttle, the choke should return all the way in when you do. If it doesn't, check the linkage carefully and make sure the choke lever is in the right hole and not dragging on anything. 2) Check the throttle linkage and make sure it isn't hanging up on anything or dragging on the fuel lines It's one of these 2 almost every time. Let me know what you find. (and good luck!)
Nice. If they only need one or 2 things each, think about buying the parts instead of stripping the others. There is a lot more money in the long run that way 👍
I also love that he just looked at the carb and said “It’s a mess” without any further explanation😂. Seems like he just wanted to do a video about changing a carburetor rather than actually diagnosing the issue.
Question: I have a Poulan 295 pro, that is extremely hard to pull start when the spark plug is in (when there’s compression). If I remove the plug it pulls just fine so it’s not the flywheel or pull spring. I removed the muffler and the piston is very clean and smooth, it’s just when there’s compression it won’t pull. When I hold it in place with my foot and pull, it’s so tight my foot starts coming off the ground before I’ve completely pulled the cord out. Any ideas?
That means it's hydro-locked. Drain the oil completely and make sure it looks and smells like oil. If it smells like gas, rebuild the carb) and put the correct amount of oil in it, and you should be good to go. I see that a lot. That is 98% guaranteed to fix it 🙂
@@GuysPlayingWithTools Thanks for your quick response. I’m pretty sure I determined it’s not hydrolocked. I removed the gas and oil, then the carborator and I still get resistance when I turn the piston. I noticed when the plug is out and I turn the flywheel by hand I still get some resistance at pretty much in the same place, like 6 o’clock and 10 o’clock. My guess is a bent valve or crankshaft. Would you agree?
Oh geez, my Bad(hanging my head) I was talking to 2 people about lawn mowers when you sent it and I had mower on the brain. That saw has a compression release that makes it easier to start, it should be on the front(towards the blade) of the motor., take it out and clean it, it's probably hung up.
@@GuysPlayingWithToolsthe poulan pro 295 doesn’t have a compression release. 2 strokes don’t have valves. Could be bad crank bearings or bearing. Debris in between the piston and cylinder wall. Stuck ring which was the problem on a saw I just repaired. Saw was straight gassed and got hot.
I could watch someone else work on chain saws all day.
Me too. Lol
Chainsaws can make you look foolish
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year from Eliminator Performance, another one well done Bill.
Happy belated birthday. Clean looking saw, sounds good now too. Happy Christmas
Thanks 🥳 i don't have birthdays anymore, i have anniversaries of my 29th birthday..lol
It's s screamer for sure. 😁
Tidy job and it now sounds great. Top video.
Thanks mate!
Good job Bill, it was in pretty nice shape. 👍
Thanks, It was a good "meet at the gas station" find. LOL
LoL... like a meth head meeting his dealer but with small engines. 🤣
@John Klem 🤣 No, he seemed decent, but I got it t $20. it was the right thing to meet him halfway. Dallas is big, and it's a decent ride from one side to the other
That was a joke Bill 🤣
@John Klem oh I know. 🙂 I get my fair share of ... curious(?) people when buying and selling, but this one was just a guy with a saw he couldn't figure it.
Ya with all chainsaws its good to learn how to work on them even the name brands can get issues and most are an easy fix well sort-a easy lots of TH-cam videos to help us out.
I enjoy making them too! There is nothing like hearing a motor kick to life.
The fixes for chainsaws are just about all the same, regardless of the brand. I treat $1,000 Stihl's the same as I treat $99 store brand saws, always the same problems, always the same fixes. 👍
@@GuysPlayingWithTools That's why I watch Vice Grip Garage and Diesel Creek on youtube that's there gig getting really old stuff to kick back to life, really good shows....
If you like the old stuff, I have one coming up just you will love, an old JD mower with the original design rear wheel drive. It's so brutal, it's cool.
@@GuysPlayingWithTools 👍
Good job my friend
Thanks John. 🙂
I'm attempting to tune my "new" Eager Beaver 32cc saw. My take away from this video is 1. turn up the idle screw, so it isn't the problem. 2. set L out 1.5 turns 3. Start the saw and set the L so it has good low end & idles nice. 4. Set the H so it has top end. 5. Back the idle screw down so the chain does not move at idle. Adjusting the L may be necessary, as you lower the idle screw. As you adjust the L, it may be necessary to adjust the H again. Repeat cycle until chain does not move at idle, and the L&H are harmonious. Did I miss anything?
Tom, you are good. You got it all perfect. 1 thing. but judging by your list, I think you sissy know... If it idles ok and bogs when you rev it, play with the H Screw
Oh yeah sounds good, i have the 4218a almost same machine great saw i cut 62 cord with it and still strong.
It's a solid saw for sure. If i didn't have one I already liked, I would think about this one.
Only thing I do is rotate between the two saws and keep carb adjustment tool in my pocket when using them
Plus I spray caps off with brake cleaner before adding fluids😊😊😊
@philliphall5198 good idea with cleaning the caps i like it.
There really good saws if you do PMV and I spray off filler caps with brake cleaner before I fill them up
Keeps trash out of system 😊
Good suggestion. Saws tend to get more than the average amount of garbage in the tanks in the field. I have a habit of carrying a rag to wipe the gas tank and cap area before filling them outdoors
Nice work Bill
Thanks Barry. It's nice to get something different now and then
Well done. Always the carbs.
The last one was an odd duck. The carb needed attention but the coil was shot. I am sure the next one will be the carb... it always is.
@@GuysPlayingWithTools I thought you said it had a spark?
@@BensWorkshop That was for the next one, this one did. Up today is a vid on a blower tune up, it didn't have spark when I started. Sorry, I wasn't very specific, it was on my mind because I released it as I was looking at comments.
@@GuysPlayingWithTools no worries.
Nice condition saw there Bill, interesting to see so many of your saws are strato! Never seen one on homeowner equipment before, though much of what I work on is 10+ years old and a lot changes in that time!
The linkage is a cable, which can be a pain if it has a problem, but tuned right they make the motor scream, so it's worth it
@GuysPlayingWithTools I bought a poulan pro for 30 bucks not running but I found that the gas line was broken inside I put a new gas line and now it runs in a full super fast like a full throttle please help
@@rodger6940 hi Rodger, You got it running, that's the hard part. Chainsaws can be tricky. No worries, it's most likely the linkage for the carb is either tied up in the fuel lines or hanging on the choke linkage. The first 2 things I would check are:
1) With the saw off, pull the choke out and then squeeze the throttle, the choke should return all the way in when you do. If it doesn't, check the linkage carefully and make sure the choke lever is in the right hole and not dragging on anything.
2) Check the throttle linkage and make sure it isn't hanging up on anything or dragging on the fuel lines
It's one of these 2 almost every time. Let me know what you find. (and good luck!)
@@GuysPlayingWithTools thanks for the reply I will check out
@rodger6940 Let me know. There are other things you could check, but one of those 2 are usually the problem.
Happy Birthday 😊
😁 Thanks!
Happy b day Bill
Thanks 😁
i got 3 poulan saws yesterday for $10 im hoping i can make at least one good one out of the 3
Nice. If they only need one or 2 things each, think about buying the parts instead of stripping the others. There is a lot more money in the long run that way 👍
@@GuysPlayingWithTools yeah I'm check compression in them today if that checks out then I'll definitely do what you suggested
@franciscomolina5362 Good luck 👍
@@GuysPlayingWithTools thank you sir!
@franciscomolina5362 Let me know how it goes
Yeah thats great if you have another Carburetor But it's a pretty crappy video for DIY'ers who don't have another!
Sorry you didn't like it. Carbs are pretty easy to order online.
I also love that he just looked at the carb and said “It’s a mess” without any further explanation😂. Seems like he just wanted to do a video about changing a carburetor rather than actually diagnosing the issue.
One word, rust. I thought I mentioned it but might have slipped on this one
First thing is install a NGK plug😊😊
I like Champion plugs, but I would never say no to an NGK. 👍
You didn’t have to put the plug back in the cylinder to check for spark and it would have been much easier to pull over
Old habit. 🙂
Question: I have a Poulan 295 pro, that is extremely hard to pull start when the spark plug is in (when there’s compression). If I remove the plug it pulls just fine so it’s not the flywheel or pull spring. I removed the muffler and the piston is very clean and smooth, it’s just when there’s compression it won’t pull. When I hold it in place with my foot and pull, it’s so tight my foot starts coming off the ground before I’ve completely pulled the cord out. Any ideas?
That means it's hydro-locked. Drain the oil completely and make sure it looks and smells like oil. If it smells like gas, rebuild the carb) and put the correct amount of oil in it, and you should be good to go. I see that a lot. That is 98% guaranteed to fix it 🙂
@@GuysPlayingWithTools Thanks for your quick response. I’m pretty sure I determined it’s not hydrolocked. I removed the gas and oil, then the carborator and I still get resistance when I turn the piston. I noticed when the plug is out and I turn the flywheel by hand I still get some resistance at pretty much in the same place, like 6 o’clock and 10 o’clock. My guess is a bent valve or crankshaft. Would you agree?
Oh geez, my Bad(hanging my head) I was talking to 2 people about lawn mowers when you sent it and I had mower on the brain.
That saw has a compression release that makes it easier to start, it should be on the front(towards the blade) of the motor., take it out and clean it, it's probably hung up.
@@GuysPlayingWithToolsthe poulan pro 295 doesn’t have a compression release. 2 strokes don’t have valves. Could be bad crank bearings or bearing. Debris in between the piston and cylinder wall. Stuck ring which was the problem on a saw I just repaired. Saw was straight gassed and got hot.
@Fueler odd part is, he says it pulls freely when the plug is out. I wouldn't rule out debris. A bent crank isn't impossible but would seem unlikely.