Very good explanation and demonstration ... Feel a lot better at doing this now. Made it look do able...took the dark arts, over techie stuff out... Excellent videa.. Many thanks.
In your videos, your wide shot is too wide, and can’t really see much. Give us a nice closeup more frequently, as I can’t see so much. Otherwise, great instruction.
The simple tip of disconnecting the cable first and foremost would’ve saved me 2 hours of fidgeting with mine if I only had watched your video… appreciate it!
Why are you showing the whole office when you need to focus in on the adjustments. Half the time he’s like do this and do that but I can’t even see it. Presenter is good, but awful video composition
*You need to change the title to "How to become an expert in (whatever topic you're talking about) in 15 minutes, etc...* *_Thank You so much for your help._*
This is the best video on F derailer setup. I have just now mastered the understanding. What made some videos confusing at first: I didn't know the front derailer spring moves it IN, without cable tension, and rear derailleur, goes outward without tension. If someone does not understand the effect of cable tension, they may not be able to set-up derailer, just by limit screws and indexing rear with barrel adjuster. You covered cable tension well. Thanks
Great points. Also for me, the tricky part was understanding the fact that the outer limiter may put an outer movement limit for the big gear but what makes the chain remain engaged to that gear with 1 mm clearance is the tension of the cable - i.e., limiter is a necessary but not a sufficient condition.
I unscrewed once and completely messed up the whole front derailleur .. and don't know how to fix that... i Almost watched many videos raising my patience nothing useful though.. thank God ,ur video was quite promising, i have to try tomorrow . It's been already late night in India. My all work depends on that small tip u said which is disconnect the cable first.. hoping for the best result 😔😔.. I'll come here if it's success..😕😕
Good video but this man is a professional and has likely done this a hundred times. If I attempted it, I just know I will make a complete mess (mountain bike)
This is by far the best guide on this subject. I spent hours trying to get my shifting fixed to no avail. But after watching this video, within minutes I got everything dialed in perfectly. Amazing, thank you! For me, I think the key was setting the limit screws before connecting the cable.
Nice video. But it would have been useful to choose a frame that included barrel adjusters (as most do) to know whether we should start tuning the cable tension at the derailleur's clamp with barrel adjuster at one or the other of its extremes or perhaps in a neutral center position.
This is the best video on youtube on front derailleur adjustment. Question: adjusting my low limit screw does not appear doing anything, while adjusting the high limit screw moves the entire derailleur closer to/away from the frame, what could be the issue? Thank you
Best explanation yet. You're the only one who provides a systematic way of adjusting this mechanism properly, including the cable. I would have like to have seen more overhead shots of the final position of your derailleur after the adjustment though. Nevertheless, you've described it well. Thanks very much for your efforts here. Very handy and I now have something I can actually use to fix this pesky adjustment issue I'm having.
Excellent tutorial with great attention to details. Easy to follow steps. Thank you. Ps. The background music was a bit distracting for my taste but other than that, well done.
Very simple and easy to follow instructional steps for the set up of the front derailleur. Worked out perfectly for the bike I was working on. cheers Peter Frehner
I followed this guide when fitting a new derailleur to my road bike; it was a different type to the flawed original (Shimano Sora) and I have to say this guide helped me out completely - easy to follow for placement and adjustment. Smooth shifting is restored. Actually, any shifting is restored, as the Sora is notorious for broken springs - meaning it's stuck in the lowest setting. Not any more though!
All the comments here about it being the best video are interesting. There are virtually no close-up shots, and when there are they're totally brief. Why isn't the ENTIRE video using a close up shot? Then, in detailing adjustments, again, it's a far away shot, going to only a brief close up, and not even showing in detail exactly which side of the derailleur he's referring to. It's like he's skipping over details as though you have experience doing this. I've watched other videos which smoke this video overall.
This bike was really easy to assemble th-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and required very few adjustments out of the box. The wheels did not require any truing/adjustments. The frame had some small scratches, but nothing major.I did replace the seat though - the seat it came with was very uncomfortable. The tires need to be re-inflated every 4-5 days, but this appears to be quite common for the narrow 700x25 tires.Overall, in my opinion, this bike looks and rides like a much more expensive bike.
Tried exchanging front derailleur. But ''seat post angle'' and or ''cage size'' caused a problem? Do the cages differ in angle and or size in length? On crank I changed from 2 to 3 chain rings. Hoping to see a solution on TH-cam. Thank you
This is a very easy explanation to follow. Though I seem to be having trouble adjusting my derailer. I adjusted my low limit screw. Now I am trying to adjust my high mimit screw, but now my chain in the front will not move to the top gear. Can I get some advice/help on this?
Lol im such a dummy, 2:02 is exactly why i gave up trying to fix it, and decided I need to see how people actually replace these things... Mine is no stuck being pulled by the cable T_T
I'm banging my head on the wall at where the H and L screws (that actually marked on the cage) are both moving the cage!! Why is H screw moving the cage when the gear is in the lower chainring?
Measuring the gap for the height adjustment is not explained well. Which gap is Cyclist referring to? Between the large gear teeth and the inner cage wall or the outer cage wall. In either case, those features are not above the large gear but well inboard of it, the inner wall of the cage even farther away towards the frame. Furthermore, not only must the cable be loosened but the derailer itself must be loosened from the seat-tube in order to move it. But loosening the derailer to adjust the cage, up or down, and to adjust the cage angle to the big gear. will require the derailer to be retightened to the seat-tube after the careful adjustments have been made. Question: how to retighten the derailer clamp without changing its carefully adjusted position?
When I don't have enough tension it won't shift into the big ring, when I have enough tension it takes so much force to shift my finger nearly breaks 😡
Interesting the front derailleur i am just working on the Low is fine moves the derailleur back and to but the High limit screw no movement back to at all. It seems to be more of a stop than any movement or adjustment, any views on that
None of the videos about how to install and/or adjust the front derailer deals with the fact that the angle between the seat-tube and plumb to which the derailer is clamped varies from frame to frame. There are no derailers to my knowledge that allow the setting to the angle between the derailer cage and its clamp. If that angle is not specific to the frame, then the cage will have a gap between the large gear ring that varies along the cage, that is the cage-arc will not be concentric with the gear. In that case, one may try to set the distance between the cage and the large gear at 1-2 mm, but at which point of the arc? The closest point, I would guess, to avoid a collision between the gear and the cage. Can one take the helpful video seriously, when this problem is not even mentioned? Add to that the fact that the cage is over the large gear only when the cable tension pulls it there. But that is not possible until the clamp is tightened, Sadly, in that condition the cage cannot be moved to make the adjustment !!!
im going made trying to set this up haha if i get one side of the derailleur set up right the other side will rub, im starting to think my derailleur could be bent and is now to narrow but it looks fine visually
Keep trying to adjust the cable. It shifts up to the large gear wheel but as soon as you let go of the twist it drops to the small gear wheel.. what am I doing wrong ?
Love this gentleman!! I was riding bikes that were not for my size for about two decades. I'm not even 5 feet but was comfortably riding bikes meant for people 5'5 or above because I'm extremely flexible, even when I never had the proper stand-over clearance... well... until an accident (not my fault) that got me smacking my punani hard! So, I decided to woman up, getting an XS frame (43cm lol) and all the parts to put together from scratch. This sweet man got me a brand new bike in a few days, and I was so proud of it!! Thank You Stu!!!
Great video....a very nice refresher. Ultegra 6700, front derailleur. After cleaning the bike today, I disconnected the front derailleur cable reattached it. The derailleur will not put the chain on the big ring anymore. I've tightened the cable over and over with the same results. I may be damaging the cable enough to replace it now. Ideas? Bad derailleur or bad cable? I used to work in a bike shop 35 years ago.
my high limit screw has literally no work. i find that to be problematic. it does not influence the derailleur cage because it's (high screw's) bottom doesn't touch the rail. how can i fix this?
I'll second the comments regarding the paramount importance of alignment first👍 Other than that the only things I would add would be- 1. Clean and decrease the bike thoroughly paying particular attention to the relevant parts 2. Get a friend to help you in my opinion the alignment at least is definitely a two-person job 3. Always do this indoors if possible- you need to be able to concentrate and listen: somewhere where it is quiet
11:00 What if I have problem that the biggest and smallest gears work nicely but the chain is reclutant to switch to the middle gear from both directions but will eventually switch to the middle? I see there's some wobble in the gears, could that be the reason for this kind of problem?
Question. Im trying to adjust my front Derailleur. And. Did you to adjust the tension of the rod. To put the chain on the middle ring. Cus my problem is its so hard to swift up to the 3rd ring. Does that mean there is too much tension??
When i watched your video a couple of weeks ago I noticed your bike Park stand fixed directly to the wall a brilliant idea, I had recently cleared an area in my workshop and have a spare stand and i fitted it, only used for one bike and i carnt get on with bike parallel to the wall, my main bike stand l just press a button it goes up and and i can work on both sides of the bike which is great, working on ebikes a lot and quite heavy so the electric lift is a big help. So back to drawing board on my spare stand. Great video
Very thorough, here's a new one, removing the cable and adjusting the screws does nothing. Usually, I see the minor movement as you suggest, but with cable removed, nothing happens. Height and angle should be fine, but I'll double check. I've oiled the pivot points thinking they may be gunked up. Black art...
Most videos show how to set up something using gear which makes it the easiest possible. I love how you have to adjust cable tension the hardest way possible because you do not have any adjusters.
Common mistake that I myself make all the time is adjusting limit screws and cable tension at the same time. Mostly to try to get the trim positions to work. If trim doesn’t work. 90% of the time it’s a sticky cable or dirty pivot joints in the front mech. I’m currently facing both those issues on the used bike I just purchased.
Hey bro I just wanted to let you know that I like what ur doin here. I watched probably 4 or 5 other edits from other bicycle maintenance step by step TH-camrs & none of them did the job as well as you did explaining the correct way to install front/rear derailleurs. They were all very similar but I found your explanation to be the easiest to follow & I was able to do what I had not previously been able to do. So thank you. I gave a like & subscribed to ur channel. I hope to pick up some more helpful tips in the future. Keep up the good work. Your my new bike dude! CB-Seattle, WA. USA
Thanks for sharing. You make my new bike even more perfect. One small question though. Is it common that 1mm gap at 11/52 may cause chain touching the inner plate of deraileur cage at 23,25,28/52? Or 1mm gap at 28/36 ---> chain touching outer plate at 11,12,13/36? I can only avoid chain rubbing within 8 gears out of 11. (I know we are not supposed to use gears like this. I just want to make sure I did it right.)
I did the inner and outer adjustment but my chain keeps rubbing against one of the sides, if i adjust it again in order to stop it for rubbing in one side, it then starts rubbing in the other side. I guess the only solution is getting the two chainrings closer by sanding the surface of the crankset where both of the chainrings are tightened up. Mt front mech is a Shimano Claris R2000.
Excellent video. Following the steps I'm able to get the derailleur to shift to the large chain ring while in the repair stand. When I ride it won't make the shift. What else can I check? Than you.
Too many wide shots and not enough close ups
the most straight forward explanation i have found... look no further,excellent video !!
Very good explanation and demonstration ... Feel a lot better at doing this now. Made it look do able...took the dark arts, over techie stuff out... Excellent videa.. Many thanks.
Zoom in more...
In your videos, your wide shot is too wide, and can’t really see much. Give us a nice closeup more frequently, as I can’t see so much. Otherwise, great instruction.
Too close to the camera. He needs to stand in a warehouse so he is even further away from the camera.
The simple tip of disconnecting the cable first and foremost would’ve saved me 2 hours of fidgeting with mine if I only had watched your video… appreciate it!
Why are you showing the whole office when you need to focus in on the adjustments. Half the time he’s like do this and do that but I can’t even see it. Presenter is good, but awful video composition
*You need to change the title to "How to become an expert in (whatever topic you're talking about) in 15 minutes, etc...* *_Thank You so much for your help._*
This is the best video on F derailer setup.
I have just now mastered the understanding.
What made some videos confusing at first: I didn't know the front derailer spring moves it IN, without cable tension, and rear derailleur, goes outward without tension.
If someone does not understand the effect of cable tension, they may not be able to set-up derailer, just by limit screws and indexing rear with barrel adjuster.
You covered cable tension well.
Thanks
Great points. Also for me, the tricky part was understanding the fact that the outer limiter may put an outer movement limit for the big gear but what makes the chain remain engaged to that gear with 1 mm clearance is the tension of the cable - i.e., limiter is a necessary but not a sufficient condition.
Bro yet i didn't got the point about the sping part u said
I unscrewed once and completely messed up the whole front derailleur .. and don't know how to fix that... i Almost watched many videos raising my patience nothing useful though.. thank God ,ur video was quite promising, i have to try tomorrow . It's been already late night in India. My all work depends on that small tip u said which is disconnect the cable first.. hoping for the best result 😔😔.. I'll come here if it's success..😕😕
Good video but this man is a professional and has likely done this a hundred times. If I attempted it, I just know I will make a complete mess (mountain bike)
Brits always do better job than Americans when it comes to any explanation involving logic.
Super troublesome.. I dismantle all these and make it become single chainring.. best solution!
Not every body has 1000$ bike. Please do this for cheapest MTB bikes. I still have chain rub in my front derailleur. This approach didn't work for me.
I hear you. I have a cheap mountain bike and I wouldn't even attempt this because I know I'd mess it up.
This is by far the best guide on this subject. I spent hours trying to get my shifting fixed to no avail. But after watching this video, within minutes I got everything dialed in perfectly. Amazing, thank you! For me, I think the key was setting the limit screws before connecting the cable.
Same here!
Nice video. But it would have been useful to choose a frame that included barrel adjusters (as most do) to know whether we should start tuning the cable tension at the derailleur's clamp with barrel adjuster at one or the other of its extremes or perhaps in a neutral center position.
Two things: First, thanks because this was a useful instructional video. Second, please post another video doing your impression of Michael Caine.
This is the best video on youtube on front derailleur adjustment. Question: adjusting my low limit screw does not appear doing anything, while adjusting the high limit screw moves the entire derailleur closer to/away from the frame, what could be the issue? Thank you
Best explanation yet. You're the only one who provides a systematic way of adjusting this mechanism properly, including the cable. I would have like to have seen more overhead shots of the final position of your derailleur after the adjustment though. Nevertheless, you've described it well. Thanks very much for your efforts here. Very handy and I now have something I can actually use to fix this pesky adjustment issue I'm having.
Excellent tutorial with great attention to details. Easy to follow steps. Thank you. Ps. The background music was a bit distracting for my taste but other than that, well done.
Fully agreed! I could not say it better! Thank you, sir!
I’ve watched about ten videos trying to work out how to adjust my front derailleur. This is the best- thanks very much!
Best setup video I've seen on the front derailleur anywhere. Very thorough. Thanks!
Very simple and easy to follow instructional steps for the set up of the front derailleur. Worked out perfectly for the bike I was working on. cheers Peter Frehner
I followed this guide when fitting a new derailleur to my road bike; it was a different type to the flawed original (Shimano Sora) and I have to say this guide helped me out completely - easy to follow for placement and adjustment. Smooth shifting is restored. Actually, any shifting is restored, as the Sora is notorious for broken springs - meaning it's stuck in the lowest setting. Not any more though!
Beautifully explained! I will be back often to re-educate myself on this setup. Thank You!
All the comments here about it being the best video are interesting. There are virtually no close-up shots, and when there are they're totally brief. Why isn't the ENTIRE video using a close up shot? Then, in detailing adjustments, again, it's a far away shot, going to only a brief close up, and not even showing in detail exactly which side of the derailleur he's referring to. It's like he's skipping over details as though you have experience doing this. I've watched other videos which smoke this video overall.
This bike was really easy to assemble th-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and required very few adjustments out of the box. The wheels did not require any truing/adjustments. The frame had some small scratches, but nothing major.I did replace the seat though - the seat it came with was very uncomfortable. The tires need to be re-inflated every 4-5 days, but this appears to be quite common for the narrow 700x25 tires.Overall, in my opinion, this bike looks and rides like a much more expensive bike.
Doesn't matter where I have my derailleur it is impossible to line up flush with that outside edge. Impossible.
Tried exchanging front derailleur. But ''seat post angle'' and or ''cage size'' caused a problem? Do the cages differ in angle and or size in length? On crank I changed from 2 to 3 chain rings. Hoping to see a solution on TH-cam. Thank you
This is a very easy explanation to follow. Though I seem to be having trouble adjusting my derailer. I adjusted my low limit screw. Now I am trying to adjust my high mimit screw, but now my chain in the front will not move to the top gear. Can I get some advice/help on this?
Lol im such a dummy, 2:02 is exactly why i gave up trying to fix it, and decided I need to see how people actually replace these things...
Mine is no stuck being pulled by the cable T_T
I have 3 chainrings. Is this more tedious to set up?
Oh yes !!!😂
How are you getting on? I'm on Day 2😅
I'm banging my head on the wall at where the H and L screws (that actually marked on the cage) are both moving the cage!! Why is H screw moving the cage when the gear is in the lower chainring?
Remote viewing lots of talking, better close up viewing, pity
Measuring the gap for the height adjustment is not explained well. Which gap is Cyclist referring to? Between the large gear teeth and the inner cage wall or the outer cage wall. In either case, those features are not above the large gear but well inboard of it, the inner wall of the cage even farther away towards the frame. Furthermore, not only must the cable be loosened but the derailer itself must be loosened from the seat-tube in order to move it. But loosening the derailer to adjust the cage, up or down, and to adjust the cage angle to the big gear. will require the derailer to be retightened to the seat-tube after the careful adjustments have been made. Question: how to retighten the derailer clamp without changing its carefully adjusted position?
Incredibly helpful video. Liked and subd thank you.
Oops! Forgot here's the problem. Stop chain rubbing cage bottom when on small chain ring? Seems cage is short. Is it?
When I don't have enough tension it won't shift into the big ring, when I have enough tension it takes so much force to shift my finger nearly breaks 😡
ya! I'm from the future and this vid is eggzacly what i need to no,,,thank you for vid....
Interesting the front derailleur i am just working on the Low is fine moves the derailleur back and to but the High limit screw no movement back to at all. It seems to be more of a stop than any movement or adjustment, any views on that
None of the videos about how to install and/or adjust the front derailer deals with the fact that the angle between the seat-tube and plumb to which the derailer is clamped varies from frame to frame. There are no derailers to my knowledge that allow the setting to the angle between the derailer cage and its clamp. If that angle is not specific to the frame, then the cage will have a gap between the large gear ring that varies along the cage, that is the cage-arc will not be concentric with the gear. In that case, one may try to set the distance between the cage and the large gear at 1-2 mm, but at which point of the arc? The closest point, I would guess, to avoid a collision between the gear and the cage. Can one take the helpful video seriously, when this problem is not even mentioned? Add to that the fact that the cage is over the large gear only when the cable tension pulls it there. But that is not possible until the clamp is tightened, Sadly, in that condition the cage cannot be moved to make the adjustment !!!
Thanks mate..had to play it more then 1once..for my own good🎉
im going made trying to set this up haha if i get one side of the derailleur set up right the other side will rub, im starting to think my derailleur could be bent and is now to narrow but it looks fine visually
Finally, a proper explanation. Thanks so much, I was about to give up and buy a car 😂
Keep trying to adjust the cable. It shifts up to the large gear wheel but as soon as you let go of the twist it drops to the small gear wheel.. what am I doing wrong ?
Thanks, Sir, That was quite helpful. Very well explained.
Decent video my only gripe is the pronunciation of derailleur. 😂
Excellent theoretical explanation, wish the video showed things at a closer distance so as to understand better.
All well and good but what do you do when the cable exits the frame in such a way that it catches the fd before getting to the pinch bolt?
Your left lever brakes your rear wheel, which should be on the contrary
Thanks for the information! Very helpful *
Love this gentleman!!
I was riding bikes that were not for my size for about two decades. I'm not even 5 feet but was comfortably riding bikes meant for people 5'5 or above because I'm extremely flexible, even when I never had the proper stand-over clearance... well... until an accident (not my fault) that got me smacking my punani hard! So, I decided to woman up, getting an XS frame (43cm lol) and all the parts to put together from scratch. This sweet man got me a brand new bike in a few days, and I was so proud of it!! Thank You Stu!!!
sorry to hear about yer minge - glad you finally got a bike that fits
Thorough and appreciated explanation. Thanks for the video!
Lot missed, what about the barrel adjuster on the mec itself ?
Rarely comment on TH-cam videos. This instructional video is hands down the best I've found on mastering front derailleur issues.
Great work.
Needs a close up to better understand.
watched a few different videos, this one helped the most
Ah so there is no need to set up trimming? And do you need to tune up the rd first before the fd?
Can you provide a video of why it can't shift up into the higher gear
yours is the only video that I could find that helped me to set my derailleur correctly. thank you so much
Couldn't finish this with the amount of adverts
Fantastic bike works great now well pleased
Thank you. This was an excellent and thorough explanation. This really demystifies the adjustment process.
Ruined with non stop ads uploader 👎👎👎👎
Any ideas why after 1st shift I go from 1-3
Saved me from returning a bike. Great video.
Ok nice but . Please close up 🔭🔬🔎🙏
professional tutorial - thanks!
This will change your life.
Nice tutorial...thanks a lot
Brilliant very good.
Great video....a very nice refresher. Ultegra 6700, front derailleur. After cleaning the bike today, I disconnected the front derailleur cable reattached it. The derailleur will not put the chain on the big ring anymore. I've tightened the cable over and over with the same results. I may be damaging the cable enough to replace it now. Ideas? Bad derailleur or bad cable? I used to work in a bike shop 35 years ago.
Wow! Thanks bro!
Thanks. Took me 4 vids to find you explaining barrel adjustment on my front derailleur , even though you don't have them
Who’s got trim settings?
Spent nearly £100 gear cables and outers labour that's why I'm here to learn and save some money.... brilliant video will give it a try
my high limit screw has literally no work. i find that to be problematic. it does not influence the derailleur cage because it's (high screw's) bottom doesn't touch the rail. how can i fix this?
I'll second the comments regarding the paramount importance of alignment first👍
Other than that the only things I would add would be-
1. Clean and decrease the bike thoroughly paying particular attention to the relevant parts
2. Get a friend to help you in my opinion the alignment at least is definitely a two-person job
3. Always do this indoors if possible- you need to be able to concentrate and listen: somewhere where it is quiet
What is the rim width in mm
Thank you Thank you
11:00 What if I have problem that the biggest and smallest gears work nicely but the chain is reclutant to switch to the middle gear from both directions but will eventually switch to the middle? I see there's some wobble in the gears, could that be the reason for this kind of problem?
Watched the vid. Have just sorted my clackety-clacking, non-up-shifting front derailleur. Thank you very much!
indeed absolutely awesome video - very crips and well-explained - thanks a bunch!
Question. Im trying to adjust my front Derailleur. And. Did you to adjust the tension of the rod. To put the chain on the middle ring. Cus my problem is its so hard to swift up to the 3rd ring. Does that mean there is too much tension??
After watching garbage video from Park Tool I came here and it was straight to the point. Thanks mate. Nice job.
Many thanks for the warning @8:38 about Di2 front mech squashing fingers. I never thought about that until now.
When i watched your video a couple of weeks ago I noticed your bike Park stand fixed directly to the wall a brilliant idea, I had recently cleared an area in my workshop and have a spare stand and i fitted it,
only used for one bike and i carnt get on with bike parallel to the wall, my main bike stand l just press a button it goes up and and i can work on both sides of the bike which is great, working on ebikes a lot and quite heavy so the electric lift is a big help. So back to drawing board on my spare stand.
Great video
Very thorough, here's a new one, removing the cable and adjusting the screws does nothing. Usually, I see the minor movement as you suggest, but with cable removed, nothing happens. Height and angle should be fine, but I'll double check. I've oiled the pivot points thinking they may be gunked up. Black art...
Most videos show how to set up something using gear which makes it the easiest possible. I love how you have to adjust cable tension the hardest way possible because you do not have any adjusters.
Common mistake that I myself make all the time is adjusting limit screws and cable tension at the same time. Mostly to try to get the trim positions to work. If trim doesn’t work. 90% of the time it’s a sticky cable or dirty pivot joints in the front mech. I’m currently facing both those issues on the used bike I just purchased.
Hey bro I just wanted to let you know that I like what ur doin here. I watched probably 4 or 5 other edits from other bicycle maintenance step by step TH-camrs & none of them did the job as well as you did explaining the correct way to install front/rear derailleurs. They were all very similar but I found your explanation to be the easiest to follow & I was able to do what I had not previously been able to do. So thank you. I gave a like & subscribed to ur channel. I hope to pick up some more helpful tips in the future. Keep up the good work. Your my new bike dude!
CB-Seattle, WA. USA
Thanks for sharing. You make my new bike even more perfect. One small question though. Is it common that 1mm gap at 11/52 may cause chain touching the inner plate of deraileur cage at 23,25,28/52? Or 1mm gap at 28/36 ---> chain touching outer plate at 11,12,13/36? I can only avoid chain rubbing within 8 gears out of 11. (I know we are not supposed to use gears like this. I just want to make sure I did it right.)
I did the inner and outer adjustment but my chain keeps rubbing against one of the sides, if i adjust it again in order to stop it for rubbing in one side, it then starts rubbing in the other side. I guess the only solution is getting the two chainrings closer by sanding the surface of the crankset where both of the chainrings are tightened up. Mt front mech is a Shimano Claris R2000.
What to do ? The shifter handle jumps down after shifting to the thrid cog. It stands some what between 2 and 3.
Brah Thank you…!!! I actually fixed my own problem with my bike… lol. I was losing hope but got it. Thanks again!!
Excellent video. Following the steps I'm able to get the derailleur to shift to the large chain ring while in the repair stand. When I ride it won't make the shift. What else can I check? Than you.
Ive set my L limit screw to the point the derailleur no longer moves. The chain still rubs.
Nice one thanks. I just followed along and my front derailleur is set up perfectly now. Great information. I've got it.
Thank You!