I select "cold wash cycles" on my washing machine then I add the softener+rinse+spin then 15 min in tumble dryer (wrap your chain in a cloth otherwise is noisy) and the chain looks brand new.
After backpedaling, check the chainrings, cassette and pullywheels for lube residue and remove with a cloth. Otherwise it might attract dirt and you still have sandpaper on the bike
I'm a poor guy and a bit autistic, and I don't have a rug or cloth (who would want to put dirty oil on a clean piece of cloth anyway) - so I use just paper from the daily newspaper to remove the excess lubricant. It should be that matte paper, which can absorb some oil, not that shiny color magazine paper - also makes for some quality reading while you are cleaning your chain!
Scientist says that the healthy black tar soaks in all excess moisture and lube. After a while when the chain lube runs out this excess lube and moisture is recoated again on the chain making it last so much longer. You can see it in action as the chain gets black by all premium oil.
Hi If you decide to lubricate each roller of the chain, before you wipe the extra lube from the chain,wait a couple hours to give the lube the time to penetrate into the rollers.
Really? How could it take a couple of hours to penetrate into the rollers? I'm guessing that happens pretty much instantly. You have a very runny liquid that has to flow about 2 millimeters to its target.
@@sfdint You are correct,the oil penetrates pretty fast.Once the oil has penetrated inside it takes a while for the compound/molecules of high quality oil to stick to rollers,etc.etc. I have talked to a technician here in Italy that works on bike racing motor/trany.Bases on the tests they have done,before they run an engine they first turn the engine with a device with out starting it, in order for the oil to lubricate everything. They wait couple hours,then the fire the engine. They never put the oil in and fire the engine even at low revolution. He said: If you do you are asking for trouble. He told me about waiting couple hours,before,i lubed the chain, wipe away i go if i needed to go out. Now with this new procedure,i clean the chain every 250/300 km.lube, wait 2 hours,wipe the chain clean,ready to go. I get about from 5000/7000 km out of a chain with in the specifications of 0.75mm
Money and time saving hacks: spray on GT85 being careful not to get any on the brake rotor, leave for 2 minutes, jet wash off (your chain will look like new!), re-lube with a good 2-stroke engine oil (at least 10x cheaper than any 'chain lube' and probably better), as it is so cheap you don't have to waste time putting a tiny drop on each joint, just rotate the cranks and squeeze it on (I simply refill an old chain lube bottle), wrap some kitchen roll round the chain and rotate again to wipe off any excess. 👍
I'm a volunteer bike mechanic and so many bikes have their drivetrains caked with dirt. I'm guessing most people just load on the lube and call it a day. At least I get some satisfaction scraping off the thick greasy dirt from the jockey wheels. I tell people exactly what you said in these videos, and show them too.
If you have to do this as a job, for more than a few days a fortnight, it gets pretty tedious and disgusting, I can tell you (having done it for 20+ years I have some {disgusting} skin in the game).
@JamesGoddard-i7s Thing is, at least with Shimano, that stuff needs to come off or you'll have a dirty chain pretty much when you park the bike for 5 minutes outside after picking it up from the shop and there's no way of avoiding that until you strip it off the chain. Lubes applied to rollers will definitely find their way into the into the chain internals (see "capilliary action"), so you can absolutely re-grease a chain properly after removing the factory stuff, and I think, you should!
Huh, I just did what seemed logical and you just validated my methodology. I use a hardware store grill cleaning spray with the chain off the bike and then I've sworn by T-9 Boeshield for decades - happy riding!
I have been using a 50% strength of Simple Green. It works, smells decent, and doesn't destroy anything. I have also changed to a Wax Water chain lube. The chain is nice and quiet and does not pick up much sand or grit. I live in Florida; it is wet and sandy especially in the summer. So far so good with the new lube.
Great advice - 1 addition: I use thinner chain oils for dry riding, and thicker for when I know it's going to be raining or I'll be going through areas that are wet.
one of your sponsors shows me a completely different way of applying the lube on their channel (i.e. silca) so i guess that’s good proof you don’t just do what Josh tells you … lol. but i think that way is beter after trying it recently
SAE 80 gear box oil from an oil can, and if needed, white spirit to clean it, which is rarely, as gear box oil does not attract dirt. You do get some spray onto the back wheel, but I'm not arsed, I just want my chain to last, with the minimum of maintenance. Seems to have worked for the past 50 years or so.
Same :) As a mechanic, have dozens of 0.5-0.75 used chains & cassettes. For second life too :D 1L bottle for 13$ is for years. Chain not shine, is dirty but that's don't bozer me :) Shop sends me 15ml demo Squirt for 3$, 1L = 200$ and hours of waxing, properly waxing in bath
I'm a qualified Maintenance engineer, more importantly I hate un-necessary work. I've been installing, replacing and maintaining chains for 35 yrs for money. I've got 3 bicycles and 3 motorcycles. The pins, bushes and rollers wear most in that order. Wax is a crap lube, it has very little shear strength under load and does not wick back unless heat caused by friction damage melts it. Primary drive chains in engines last for 100's of thousands of miles because they have constant clean lube, the more you clean and lube it the longer it will last. Spending $200 on lube and cleaner to make a $50 chain last 2x longer is mathematically 2x more stupid than necessary.
I spend about $8.00 on lube for the price of a chain that costs $35. It's not about the cost only, but about the ride feel and no squeaking noises in addition to less friction.
@@markconnelly1806 Soluble oil for machining is interesting - it's designed to work under the harshest load - cutting steel - but washes off completely and easily with a hose. Leaves everything on the chain side sparkling clean.
@@prophetzarquon1922 I used to use it with a Scottoiler for bicycles (constant lube system) so rain wasn't an issue. Never had such a consistently clean drive train since.
Wax does not pick up dirt and allows my chain to last forever. Bicycle chains don't get that hot so there is no need for the only semi molten wax to wick anywhere.
This point may have been made - winter, road salt and sparing lube application to inside of chain can lead to rusty chain. During winter I apply a bit more coating on the chain during winter to avoid this - and clean & dry and lube the chain more regularly
My go to lubricant for chains is heavy duty motor oil. Most motorcycle companies have it listed as the preferred chain lubricant, sure it's mainly because its kind on the o-rings but you can also just split it into a few different sized bottles and droppers and then use it for everything, even the cleaning. Sure, you get the oil all over the place and need to have the soap ready to go, but it penetrates easily and gets to all the right places, as you use more and more it lifts all the dirt and grime out faster than you think it has any right to and all you need to do after proper cleaning is hang it up for a while, fit and wipe. I always used proper chain cleaners and what i thought were good lubricants, until i ran out of lubricant after i had used the chain cleaner and instead used the oil from my old car that i have been using for the chain on my Yamaha as it suggests in the service manual... i could not believe how much crap came out into the oil after i had used my $47 chain cleaner... I never went back and because i have 3 vehicles and 2 mowers, i never run out either.
I watched a video on TH-cam where the guy made a research about this topic. He concluded that the best way to lubricate the chain is by shifting front derailleur to the biggest cog and shifting rear derailleur to the biggest cog. Then lube every link with a single drop from outside the chain and spin the cranks backwards. The experiment was him pouring lube on flat surface and then wiggle the chain on it. The chain started to suck the liquid with its outer part from the flat surface. I do it that way just because the research. Previously I did it as shown here. Actually I see no difference in longterm. For cleaning I put the chain in plastic bottle full of kerosene and then put in in an ultrasonic tub but you can just close the bottle, let it stay for a while and then jiggle it. If you want to get the best from your chain you can try waxing it. I've never done it but it seems promising. But If you are lazy to clean and lube your chain, waxing may not be for you. I think everybody know this but WD-40 is dissolvent. It's clearly not for lubing but it's great for cleaning mechanical parts such as chains and derailleurs. The downside is the price that's why I use kerosene. Other way to clean your chain fast is to put it in jar with hot water and dishwashing liquid and jiggle it then you can rinse it again with hot water only. Buying a quick release chain link will help you a lot doing chain maintenance.
The kerosene in a jar method is for stripping out the factory grease (like what the chain stripper in the video does). If you wax your chain, you're only gonna do that once, because waxing doesnt attract that much dirt. You can clean the chain by pouring hot water to melt the old wax off, and then rewax.
1. Do not remove the thick oil on a new chain with degreaser, just use Weldtite TF2 or similiar on a rag and simply wipe off the outside of the chain. 2. Do not use strong degreaser on any part of your bike (if you need to do that, you've used the wrong kind of lubricant in the first place). 3. Do not remove the chain from your bike unless you intend to replace it (completely unnecessary, and just a waste of time). 4. Do not use degreaser as part of your regular maintenance, wash your bike with ordinary cleaning products like MucOff Bike Cleaner or similar. 5. It doesn't really matter how much oil you apply on the chain, as long as it's enough to lubricate the rollers (you'll be wiping off the excess anyway). 6. In reality, it's using the bike that causes chain wear, and not your maintenance routines (just replace chain when it's worn out, and think nothing more of it). 7. Don't listen to advice in videos on TH-cam where they are over-complicating things :-)
Best results I’ve had is with Squirt lube, after fully degreasing, applied liberally on the upper of the chain whilst back pedalling squeezes the wax into the rollers as it passes through the jockey wheels, let it dry over night. No more degreasing, just needs a brush and reapply periodically.
@@bonbonflippers4298Correct! I take a rag to my chain twice a week and wipe it clean, then apply drip wax. Every 1000 miles or so, I put the chain in boiling water, let it dry, and hot wax it which lasts over 200 miles alone, but combined with the drip wax you get this cycle where your chain and drivetrain are able to be cleaned with water or simple bike wash soap. Edit: I should mention I am riding about 200 miles a week.
I lubricate my chains a drop per roller, and I typically wait about a minute per horizontal chain section between chainring and the cog, before advancing the next section, to let the lube penetrate inside rollers, so as little as possible ends up on drivetrain teeth. I also preheat bottle of lube in a cup of hot water, so it runs a bit thinner and penetrates the rollers a bit faster.
Low odor paint thinner/kerosene based solvent, really cheap, it's what we used in our bike shop's solvent cleaning station. it's made to quickly dissolve old grease and flush out dirty oil. A (US) gallon is about $7. Some choice oils are 2 stroke premix synthetic oil, you can add a very thin amount, you can use it very sparingly. A 8 ounce bottle is about $4.
I use squirt line and have for a couple of years excellent.. a tip from me would be to microwave the application bottle for 10 seconds shake then apply, I also put it into big ring on back and one off the top on the back cassette to allow the lube to fully seat for a about 10 mins.. works for me 😊 Pete 🚴♀️🚴♀️🚴🏻👍
I’m retired - - I don’t have time to clean my chain! 😂 Seriously - how often should an average-mileage rider change his chain? I notice the better ride and put on a new chain every other year (it’s my best maintenance tip!).
Everything very well explained and absolutely correct in this video. Funny giving this advice to roadies with their 5k plus bikes though, as this is absolute basic knowledge and routine for any fixed gear rider concerning our drivetrains. And by the way, I apply one drop per each individual roller aswell, nothing nerdy about that.
Still: Make your own experiences, try different things and keep in mind that there isn't 'the' product for every type of riding. I've had dry lubes that kept the drivetrain nice and clean for multiple (short) rides but when you rode way over 100 km in total, the chain got noisy and rattly because the lube must have *evaporated* - same in the rain, don't try your full-day epic in unstable weather conditions, some of these products are gone after just a few kilometers in the wet and break your heart when you move on with a noisy AF chain. Sometimes, you better accept that your bike is getting wet and dirty and apply something more sticky like mineral oil or wet-specific products (which attract dirt by nature) in the first place. Before anybody slides in the comments below, we're staying in the non-waxing realms, here. 😊
It would be amazing if there were a TH-cam Channel that focused on Bikes and did independent lube testing and published results. If only a channel like that existed.
The one with the guy crying about 1x drivetrains because supposedly it makes you lose 2 watts? 😂 Yeah they’re totally grounded in reality and never become overly obsessed with bullshit
It is called zero friction cycling : it is an independent tester who tests a lot of lubricant in with the same protocol. Everything has been summarized on his web site
@@fouderock14 ZFC is obviously backed by Silca-it’s pretty clear from what they put out. They always seem to hype up Silca's performance while unfairly knocking other brands without much proof. Yet, people still buy into what they say without questioning it. 😂
Imersive waxing is by far the best way to lube a chain and maintain a drivetrain. Your chain is completely flushed clean each time it goes in the hot wax and there is no black oily filth on any of the drivetrain. It saves so much time wasted cleaning the bike... plus you will usually double your chain life.
@@fernosan I pour a kettle of boiling water over the chain in the kitchen sink before immersing in the molten wax in the double boiler on the stove top... paraffin wax starts to melt at 37C so 100C water carries away any contaminants between the pins and rollers along with the old wax
@@fernosanif you’re mostly riding road, you literally only need to wipe your chain with a microfiber towel to pick up the dirt it may accumulate. Dip it in the hot wax, shake around and let sit for 10 minutes, then pull it and hang to dry. That’s it. The longest process is the first time you prep your chain. It’s much simpler long-term
@@fernosan because wax is a solid lubricant most dirt will just wash off. I recently got my waxed mtb chain caked in mud and after nothing more than a wash with the hosepipe it was clean enough that I was happy to put it down on the living room carpet. When you re-wax all the old wax melts off and any remaining dirt is flushed out. The best info on chain waxing can be found from Zero Friction Cycling. He is the best regarded for independent testing of different chain lubricants.
@@fernosan no, you dont have to clean the chain every time you re wax. just dump the chain in the molten wax. chains stay very clean when waxed, so the wax does not get contaminated quickly. you dont even have to clean a new chain of the grease they come with as always so tediously stated by 'experts' as paraffin is as good a solvent as anything, esp when at high temps. probably better in fact. and the grease wont change the wax properties and will be utterly insignificant by proportion. i really get sick of hearing ppl say a new chain has to be degreased before waxing. its so silly and shows ignorance of basic chemistry. not having to clean a new chain is actually another benefit of immersion waxing.
If you live somewhere that salts their roads a lot in winter I do recommend DROWING the chain in oil for those months. Even spraying some on the cassette is a good idea. Unless you like all the face plates of your chain and your cassette to completely rust up in one winter
Clean cogs with Diesel, applied with a 1'' brush with a small pan to collect the dripping. Then use a clean rag moist with Diesel to wipe the chain. Clean after every ride.
I use Silca Synergetic. It is fairly expensive, but it does an excellent job. Instead of marinating the links with it, and ending with most of it on the floor, I transfer it from its bottle to another one with a needle applicator. I apply two small drops, one on each side of a roller pin and all is good to go. After each ride I swipe the chain and the gears with a cloth. At the 300 Km mark, I re-apply. It lasts for ages and the drivetrain attracts no dirt.
@@awakenedbahamut2574 I found that Synergetic lasts for about 300-400Km on the dry. It does not matter though. Applying it with a needle nose bottle will last for years. I wonder why Silca abandoned the initial needle nose bottle for the one that literally bathes the chain.
@@cauldron101 silca says they found that the needle applicator actually doesn't put enough lube on the chain and it works better with a bit more on there.
@@awakenedbahamut2574 Perhaps it was me adding more than I should with the new cap. Most of it was ending on the floor. I will test applying twice with the needle nose to see if it feels any different.
Please help me with a clarification. Silca is GCN sponsor, and we see Josh regularly. He made a video in the Spring called 'Stop Wasting Your CHAIN LUBE! Know the BEST Way to Apply It!'. Very detailed deep dive into the life of a cycle chain, and he explains why you should lube the outside of the chain. In this tutorial Alex, using Silca products, advocates the lubrication to be applied on the inside. Are we in or out?
Wear gloves when handling anything the lube gets on including rags the nickel on the chain can cause Pompholyx (dyshidrotic eczema) in some people over time.
@@russyJ20 If you can't afford ultrasound, a second hand whole body vibration machine will get the grits and dust out, and can be used for stretching, less so as exercise.
Because some chains are using Quicklink like mine, I remove them and soak it quickly with petrol then wash it with water and liquid soap. Put it back and I lubricate it with Silicone spray. Doing it for 4 years and my bike chains are still good and no rusts.
Once upon a time our family would use kerosene to clean chains in a container. I think the bicycles, especially from England were very high quality steel. Before it was stolen by a drunk, I had Melvan Star bicycle with a 4 (or was it 5) speed Strumley- Archer gears. Following the advice of old timers, I looked after that bike by cleaning with water and a damp rag; applying kerosene to the frame and wheels; and wiping it off with an old towel. What is the modern mechanics take on all this?
Pretty sure you're talking about different outsides. The "outside" in the video means the "closed" part on the sides of the chain, facing the frame and away from the bike. Where the markings are stamped into the chain
Little secret: air tool oil is a light non-detergent oil that can be used for many purposes around the home & shop. It's super cheap if you buy at Harbor freight. 4oz. bottle just 99 cents. 16oz bottle 5 bucks. Been using it for years on everything from firearms to bicycles.
I found the easiest to apply lube is to apply it on top of the cassette and backpedal. You can hold the bottle very stable to not wander around and thus avoid getting lube every where. It's fast as well, I do just 2 revolutions of the chain. Backpedal some time and wipe off. As for degreasing, I use regular white spirit. It's cheap and works very well. Just put some on a cloth and wipe the chain clean. I don't get people buying expensive degreasers (well, maybe for the environmental aspect).
I apply lube on the rollers while they are off the bike. Pull the chain around a wrench to engage the rollers and help the lube to get in there, then wipe the chain as dry as i could.
Just today I had a guy come in to lube his chain - He wanted oil on the chain, cassette and chainrings. I think he thought I was crazy when I said first you need to clean the dirt off. Some bikes come in with a thick layer of something like chainsaw oil over the whole chain
@gcntech As much as I liked having a waxed chain, it doesn't work well in my hot, dry climate. After going through all the trouble of the cleaning/application process, it would immediately melt off in less than an hour getting everywhere it didn't need to go. Having spent many years working in clothing factories, I recently started using Singer sewing machine oil with great success. Sewing machines run for hours at over 6000 RPM in the hottest and dustiest environments you can imagine. The oil is thick so it stays put, but not overly greasy or tacky so it attracts minimal dust and dirt. The only drawback is that it does have a strong odor during the application.
Buy an oil applicator it actually makes oiling your chain fun. I think the one I got was for model trains. You can put a tiny bit of oil on each chain link easily with precision. Don’t use the live bottle.
Interesting. I just learned to apply the Lube to each link on the inside. I've been doing top and bottom. Too much Lube. 😮 a good clean and Lube required.
My theory is this whole thing about waxing chains is based on confusion caused by differences in UK English vs. US English. In the UK, paraffin is a liquid fuel. It's what's known as kerosene in the US. In the US, paraffin is a solid wax that's often sold for sealing jam jars. My theory is that someone in the US read about people in the UK soaking their chains in paraffin. So people in the US started soaking chains in the US version of paraffin, which of course in the US would mean soaking your chain in liquid/molten wax. Thanks for listening.
Literally two comments down, there is a reply illustrating conflation between kerosene & wax. 🙃 Having used both, I'd give a thumbs up to cleaning with 'paraffin' fuel but a meh to sealing with 'paraffin' wax (& yeah, they're totally different things! LOL)... Bicycle chains mostly need to be _clean._
In other words waxing is a big mistake. But waxing works really well. I have no idea why it works so well but it makes my chain last forever and stops me from getting dirty or staining my clothes. You should try it.
Can you do a video on sub compact cranks? I'm finding it difficult to find ones that plug and play with hollowtech bottom brackets and keep the same chainline. What are the dos and don'ts of installing a 46/30 on a road bike?
Why on earth does everyone think you need a degreaser! To clean your chain, wet a paper towel in WD 40 and clean the chain using it. When done, the chain should look new. Then apply 3 in 1 oil to the links, one at a time, being sure to get the space between links and roller. Finally, using a clean paper towel, clean off the excess oil after spinning the chain for a minute or so. That's it. I clean my chain after each ride (3 minutes) and oil it every few rides. I also use WD 40 for the derailleur moving parts. Why not?
Car gearbox oil (manual/stick shift gearbox!), EP80, lubricates a chain amazingly and costs a fraction of specialist oils. If you're really cheapskate, car engine oil isn't bad. I lubricate often, never clean the chain, and get about 7000-8000 miles of hard urban riding (in all weathers) out of a chain. Mind you, I do ride a single-speed transmission. After that mileage the chain is probably too stretched to run on a derailleur.
To be honest, it sounds like a lot of faff and buying new chains more regularly feels like a much better use of time than mucking about degreasing brand new ones.
Fill the syringe with lube and use the needle to precisely place the lube between the roller and the plate. Leave for a few hours so that the lube has time to enter the space between the roller and the pin, then wipe off any excess lube, if any. For a thicker lube a thicker needle is required. A little slower method, but little to no grease is wasted and there is no mess. Be sure to cover the needle after use and be especially careful when handling the syringe with the needle. Do this at your own risk.
A "secret" in the motorcycle community is kerosene. Yep, good old and inexpensive kerosene is a very effective yet gentle degreaser / cleaner. Get a commercial quality spray bottle (one-time expense) and because the kerosene is so cheap you never think about the price when using it. I end up cleaning my bicycle chain (and clean the gears) 3 or 4 times (quality brushes and paper towel wipe downs between "each round") until it is a very light grey on the paper towel. Make sure to NOT use camp fuel, butane, etc. - kerosene always comes in the white and blue containers. Of course, if you have disk brakes be very careful to never get any kerosene on the rotors (even when using muck-off guards I'm still spraying slightly away from the rotors).
I wonder what cost less in the long run. Replacing a chain early due to not cleaning it, or the cost of chain cleaner and lube over the period that other chain lasted.
Depends on the chain you're getting, I'd imagine. I've heard others claiming that a higher end (not necessarily "ultralight only lasts for one race" higher end) chain lasts a lot longer due to better metal treatments, so the price evens out in the long run; if I had a more expensive chain I'd also be more willing to get a nicer lube and take better care of it to stretch that investment even further. Not so much if it's a cheap $15-20 chain and another $25-30 worth of cleaner and lube, though whether or not that's actually economical in the long run, I'm not really sure. I did experiment with even cheaper AliExpress chains and got decent mileage-per-dollar out of them, but it ends up being a lot more work to stay on top of them...
Honestly, probably the cleaning products. I don't use the most expensive stuff, it's like 10 bucks per bottle and lasts a while but I still go through a bottle every few months. A SRAM force chain is $30-40 but the noises from not cleaning it would drive me insane
It's not just the chain. You'll be replacing expensive worn out front rings and cogset too, if enough grinding paste is left on the chain to do its thing. Wax is king.
Lubing is way cheaper even with inexpensive drive trains, unless you are overpaying for your chemicals. You'd only need isopropanol for washing off dirt between oil applications. It is totally reusable until it becomes contaminated too much with rain water from insides of rollers. And no more than a 1L of alkali based cleaning concentrate for complete cleanse 1-2 times a season. That will last for a very long time as well. As for the oil, 100mL would last you like 15k km if you apply it with a syringe needle every 100km, which takes more time but is way less messy and more effective since you are able to feed right under the roller through the gaps between them and plates, and there is almost nothing to wipe off afterwards. It takes me ~0.6cc of oil for a 112L chain.
Confession time. A not infrequent method of mine is brake cleaner followed by chainsaw chain oil. Hey! It comes in three viscosities even. Hey, its better than nothing!
Would really like to know how many people actually have the tools and knowledge to remove their chain. I’ve never done it before. Also same applies for a dedicated indoor bike?
everyone who regularly services their own bike will have inexpensive quick link pliers and a bag of inexpensive quick links from amazon... also Dawn dishwashing liquid is an excellent degreaser so you don't need overpriced bicycle chain degreasers
It is easy with a quick link and a bit more difficult with the old Shimano pins (though Shimano has moved to quick links too, generally). You get quicker at it. The link removal tools in the shape of a X allow you to tighten the link using the tool, because squeezing expands and tightens the link. Even the smallest 2USD tools are fine. Links sold in packs of 5 or 10 are very cheap and last 20 - 40 removal/replacements, or you can change more often. I have have had an old one fall off so I keep a spare in my saddle bag.
"Don't fall for marketing schemes"? Okay. I'll keep using WD-40. Good enough to clean the chain very well. Just needs to be careful as not to overspray, the wiping process needs to be good, and reapply it often, but that also helps in keeping up with the overall cleanness of the bike...
If you immersive wax your chain you don't need to be careful with overspray, just a quick wipe with an old towel after a wet ride, you don't rewax as often as you would reapply WD40 and your drivetrain, hands and legs stay clean. Ok, you get little specks of wax on the drive-side chain stay and big ring teeth but this easily wipes off with a rag if it bothers you.
gasoline or petrol if you speak UK English in a plastic container add your chain and quick link shake it for a moment then let it settle, repeat twice remove chain and q link; then wash chain in alcohol hang it up to air dry. Return it to your bike and lube each roller as described by the presenter back pedal wipe any excess oil. Then enjoy a ride with a smile on your dial.
Research shows that the best place to apply lube is at the TOP of the chain just after it leaves the rear cog (after putting the chain on the largest chainring at the front and the largest cog at the rear). At this location the chain links are experiencing their greatest sideways forces allowing for the best penetration of lube into the inner pins and rollers of the chain.
I stopped cycling these types of bikes just to skip the hassle of lubing and cleaning excessively. I am a commuter and cleaning the bike after each commute (at work or at home) was not something I did or wanted to do. Instead I run a bike with internal hub (Skeppshult for Swedes, similar to "Dutch bike" for all on TH-cam). The bike feels slower but in practice it is tops 5 min slower on an hour long commute. The chain is different (stronger) as it doesn't need to skip to other gears, so it is not as important to clean (obsessively clean)...still important though, still something I neglect.
Meh, a quick spray with WD-40 every couple of rides is fine. It may not last as long as other lubricants, but it's cheap and it only takes a few seconds and helps keep it clean. Just be careful to not get it anywhere close to the brake rotor
Waxing tips 1) While the addition of lubricative powders to wax may make little different to watts of efficiency, it may improve the life of the chain. I am not sure but my chaing has lasted 50,000 km. I use Molybdenum disulphide and PTFE powder which can be purchased from alixp cheaply. 2) I find that candle wax , i.e. candles from a dollar tree (100 yen shop) work fine. Others use bees wax / paraffin mixtures. 3) If you have a slow cooker (ideally) or other electrical cooker (I use an IH cooker and a steel bottomed pot) then you can heat wax outside, and avoid wax smells in the house. If you burn the wax it will make it more brittle and certainly changes the wax but I find that the wax is pretty tolerant of being simmered for a while. I.e. while slower cookers are recommended, I stopped using one for the time it took to melt the wax, and do not seem to have noticeable ill effect from overheating my wax. 4) There is no need to have wax anywhere that you can see but I find it does not hurt to put a lot of wax on the chain by letting the wax cool a little before hanging out to harden. 5) pull the chain off the back of the derailleur. 6) Since the wax is so cheap you can use it as a cleaner (perhaps changing your wax every now and again, once a year?) and just put the chain straight in wax. I only wash after rainy days because I find that a waxed chain picks up so little dirt on other days. 7) Some use an ultrasound cleaner but I use a whole body vibration machine to shake dirt out of my chain into detergent occasionally. 8) Since molten wax is a cleaner you can put a new chain straight in the wax and the grease will be cleaned off making little difference to the wax. 9) When the wax is molten is the only time it will make your hands dirty. One cooled you can hold the chain, or wear suit trousers on your road bike with little fear. Perhaps not white suit trousers. 10) Missing links are cheap but I still use my about 20 times. I carry a spare in my saddle bag because I have had an old missing link fall off. If you want to be safe, even a non KMC generic link should last 10 times but your mileage may vary. 11) I wax ever 200-300 km but again, it will depend on the chain, riding conditions, and how long you want your chain to last. 12) I put the front derailleur into the smaller chainring because it makes it easier to thread. 13) I use a knee pad to kneel next to my bike on the ground. 14) I thread onto the jockey wheels first, by poking in and turning each wheel in turn. 15) It is important to thread the chain on the inside of the little tap between the two jockey wheels. I may even remove it one day. Missing the tab is the only thing I have got wrong. I rode for a while making a noise before I realised so it is not such a big deal, imho. 18) Threading the chain through the front dérailleur is easier once the wax is hard. 19) It is easy to loose links on gravel or grass, if you do it in your garden/yard. When I thread up, I put the links in an old ash tray so I don't lose them on the ground. 20) It is good to have a cooker with a timer. 21) It is good to have another timer to tell you when the wax has cooled down for 5 or 10 minutes depending on the ambient temperature. Taking the chain out of the hot very-liquid wax may also be fine. 22) If you use two pairs of pliers, the X shaped quick link pliers to open the link by squeezing your hand, and a pair of two Vs joined at the apex for lengthening and closing the link by squeezing it is more convenient than using the pedal to close the link because you probably need one hand to keep the link sides together, and another to turn the pedal, and a third to stop the chain from dropping off the chainwheel. Ni self respecting mechanic would have any difficulty, but I am not a mechanic and like having both types of plyers. That said my X shaped plyers are just thin nosed pliers from a 100 yen shop that I have ground down a bit to make them thinner for removing the link by squeezing your hand, it makes it easier. Normal X shaped pliers need to be pulled apart to open the link, which is slightly more difficult. 23) Keep some spare bushings, the ring shaped bits between the chain plates, because you may lose one when removing or repkace misding links. Keep one bushing in your saddle bag. I have mine in a tiny pill box with a missing link and a presta to schrader valve converter.
Generic WD40 is just outright a mistake as it's multi-purpose and a degreaser, but WD does have a bicycle chain specific oil and that's totally fine. If you think the generic WD40 is perfect, then it's likely that you're: - wearing down your chain quicker than typical bicycle chain lubes, let alone longevity of wax based chains. - not measuring the components' wear. - not riding as much or as hard.
@@SonnyDarvish From WD40 themselves.... While WD-40 Multi-Use Product it is not a grease, it is formulated with strong lubricating oils and other ingredients, and is a terrific product to use for bike maintenance. It does not attract dirt or moisture to metal surfaces - just be sure to wipe off any excess WD-40 Multi-Use Product before riding. If you have proof otherwise then report them for false advertising. Simon used to use it his whole life until he ended up working at GCN and getting free high end lubes to use and advertise. I'm 60 in 6 weeks and have been using it my whole life and never had a problem with it because i use it correctly.
Fill your chain cleaner with heating oil or diesel , spin it until freed up and saturated , dry with a clean rag using an airline to blow all the crap out , polish , re oil with two stroke oil and away you go .
I still think, the best way to lube a chain is, use degreaser on a brand new chain, wash the chain, then put that chain on your bike, then use squirt liquid wax by applying 1 drop per chain roller. After 100km, I use a rag to clean the chain and apply squirt again. Also apply squirt evertime after riding in wet weather.
That old clip of Si is fantastic 😂 I bet that if he had a bike with disc brakes, he would have applied some WD40 on there too. To get rid of the loud breaking noise 😂
Remove the chain and soak it in you favorite solvent for at least 1/2 hour. Then remove chain and wipe off and if you have an air compressor blow off any excess solvent and grime with compressed air. Then reinstall the chain and lubricate the inner rollers, or hot wax chain before reinstalling.
No need to buy the snake oil. The secret inexpensive lube is bar and chain oil for chain saws. Use a toothbrush to clean your chain and the bits. Also the mechanical chain cleaners with a little soapy water works well. Use a squeeze dropper to apply the bar and chain oil to your chain.
Well i am in the gifted spot to have 3 bikes. 1 MTB, 1 Road and one Trekking to and from Work. I clean the Chain on my MTB and Road after every ride. On my Trekking i usualy do it once every month. If you ride in the wet and or snow, do it more often tho.
I'm currently testing "Fluna Tech" ceramic coating, it's intended for firearms, but I figure reducing friction and not attracting dirt apply to firearms as well, so might be worth a try.
For chain cleaning. When the weather is somewhat cloudy or rainy. I suggest you can just wash your chain with water to remove the dirt. Then just wipe it and apply lube. Also monitor your pedalling to check if it feels heavier to pedal or not. If it does. Check if you need to re lube your chain or maybe your chain needs to be thoroughly cleaned. I also suggest in order to let your chain last longer. Always pedal in a gear that isn't too heavy if you aren't going on a race. Just have a relaxing ride to let your chain last longer. Always inspect your chain and replace it if it is worn out already
Do I get it right? You first clean the chan with a degreaser to bare metal, next you wax it, and when it gets dirty over time you lube it? Somehow I feel I have got it not completely right...
EDIT: is lubing and waxing the same thing? You sometimes say lubing and sometimes you say waxing. Do you mean the same thing by saying these two? Thank you
Nooooo…… If you don’t put some sort of oil or wax based lubricant on the side plates….they will RUST! I’ve been using whatever (from 3 in 1 oil in the 80’s) applied to the roller links but if you totally clean and degrease your chain, unless you apply something to the side plate links, bare steel RUSTS
I believe in keeping the drivetrain components clean enough to eat off of. Wipe the excess chain lubricant off the chain, cassette sprockets, and chainrings after each lubrication. If you’re using a hot wax lubricant, clean the wax buildup from your cassette and chainrings while the chain is off the bike. Cassettes are most easily cleaned by removing the rear wheel, and threading a shop towel between the sprockets. Wheel removal also facilitates cleaning the “nether regions” around the bottom bracket shell, seatstays, chainstays, caliper, and derailleurs. Ride clean, ride happy!😁❤️
Totally by accident, I discovered that extra-wide shoelaces (& cord or narrow old rope) are a quick & easy tool to clean between the sprockets of a grimy cassette.
I know NOTHING about bicycle chains, but there is a similar raging debate about motorcycle chains. I believe that you should always lube your motorcycle chain, after a long ride. The chain gets quite hot, and that heat draws the oil into the insides of the chain. Plus motorcycles generally get left outside, where it's cold / damp / or even totally wet. You need an oil surface for protection. If you do this, the next time you ride, when you engage first gear, you can REALLY feel the dampening and smoothing effects of the oil, that has got inside the chain. Also "gear oil" is thought to be best. It's quite thin, so any grit gets thrown off, as the chain is moving quite fast. I cycle too, and I love it. Hope my points are useful?
The official line from Shimano the last time I checked was that their factory grease is best left on the chain until the chain needs oiling again. It's not as efficient as a lower viscosity chain lube, but it's as close to a waxed chain as you'll get without waxing the chain yourself, but much better than wax in terms of its behaviour in wet muddy conditions. Funny how UK based GCN never seem to mention that waxed chains are basically useless in wet conditions, as someone who also lives in a cold temperate maritime climate and hits standing water and mud on every spin, even in the middle of the summer, waxing is a massive waste of time if you ride in the rain.
not entirely. there are all weather wax formulas and its still massively cleaner than lube. I'll take my wax any day over getting my hands grimy from a tiny touch of the chain.
@@Metalshark100 What are you doing touching the chain with your hands in the first place? I clean and lube mine on the bike without ever touching it with my hands.
@@peglor when chain comes off or if you need to take off the back wheel or if you need to take off the chain. I never need to worry about oily gross lube. But by all means if you enjoy using lube then stick with it. It's not for me and I'm cleaner for it
@@Metalshark100 Not a case of 'enjoying' using lube, but I definitely don't enjoy all the extra time wasted with waxing chains in a wet climate where wax doesn't protect them as well.
Since I started looking after my chain properly the first thing I noticed, they last twice as long! And I don't wax! Yet! I used to clean the chain with the rest of the bike with a pressure washer then give it a "really good" oiling! Now I spend time cleaning it and lubing it properly and yes I too lube each individual roller! 😂 In the long run it makes financial sense but I don't get awful chain noises or even, god forbid, clicking! I'm gonna try waxing on my summer road bike next year. I'm not sure about wax on Gravel & MTB, especially through the UK winter 🤔
Yep, I can confirm that when riding in wet and dirty conditions, the wax on the chain doesn't last very long. Sometimes just a little above 100 km, even with the hot wax method. If you don't have the chance to clean and dry it immediately after riding (like when bike packing and you have to store your bike outside while it's still raining), the chain will easily start to pick up rust. I still use it on my gravelbike, because cleaning your bike is so much easier. And it quickly becomes a habit after riding to look after your chain, which will only take you 2 minutes with a microfibre towel and some wet wax. Occasionally, you need to rewax with hot wax and don't forget to use reusable quick links. Sometimes you need to remove some buildup of wax between the smallest cogs, but it's nothing compared to the grime you get with oil.
my routine for my commuter with shimano GRX 2x10, and also for shimano 105 r7020 2x11... i wipe the chain with rag every 60-100km, apply lube and wipe it off. when i used muckoff crap chain was done in 2500km... wear was at 0.75% lol at muckoff price for 15euro for less than 1dcl it is a snake oil ripoff, ofc i found out there is FAR better and far cheaper option: this is how i lube my chains, never take them off, and i even often ride in rain and on gravel: MIX 1 part white spirit and 1 part manual gear oil 75w80. that is like 20euro for 2liters lol (lifetime), wipe chain with rag every 60-100km, apply loads of lube since it is cheap, wait few hours or maybe overnight, so the white spirit evaporates, and wipe it off... easy fast cheap. the idea is the white spirit dilute the oil so it can penetrate in to rollers and then evaporate off... and u know what is the best part after 8500km wear is at 0.4% that means chain will last at least 13.000km... most of the oils are just snake oils at insane prices, imagine this: muckoff ludicrus cost 130e for 1dcl, that is 1300e per liter ;)
Josh from Silca recommends applying lube on the top of the chain, right as it engages the cassette when backpedalling, in the largest sprocket. He says it is to facilitate penetration, as it is the location where the chain is most "opened up", and then the rollers turn several times around the cassette and pulleys. This enables the lube to penetrate and coat the inside of the chain more efficiently. Any opinion on this?
There is something about it, but I prefer to put a wax on each roller and rotate each one with fingers so it goes inside. It's just a couple of rollers...😅
I use this method but there is barely any difference between using this and the one in the video. I'd say it doesn't really matter which one you do as you get the same results.
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🫧 Let us know your chain cleaning tips and lubricant advice in the comments! 🔗
I select "cold wash cycles" on my washing machine then I add the softener+rinse+spin then 15 min in tumble dryer (wrap your chain in a cloth otherwise is noisy) and the chain looks brand new.
After backpedaling, check the chainrings, cassette and pullywheels for lube residue and remove with a cloth. Otherwise it might attract dirt and you still have sandpaper on the bike
My solution is a bit expensive I bought a belt drive bicycle 😄
Ultrasonic cleaner
I'm a poor guy and a bit autistic, and I don't have a rug or cloth (who would want to put dirty oil on a clean piece of cloth anyway) - so I use just paper from the daily newspaper to remove the excess lubricant. It should be that matte paper, which can absorb some oil, not that shiny color magazine paper - also makes for some quality reading while you are cleaning your chain!
The lower pulley wheel needs to have a healthy layer of black tar caked on, that's how you know the bike is nice and ripe.
Scientist says that the healthy black tar soaks in all excess moisture and lube. After a while when the chain lube runs out this excess lube and moisture is recoated again on the chain making it last so much longer. You can see it in action as the chain gets black by all premium oil.
@@banzooiebooie Sure, nice grind paste. 😀
😂😂
@@banzooiebooie It's all about that grindset.
@@banzooiebooie 😟
The irony of a GCN video telling you not to be drawn in by fancy marketing.
Hi If you decide to lubricate each roller of the chain, before you wipe the extra lube from the chain,wait a couple hours to give the lube the time to penetrate into the rollers.
Really? How could it take a couple of hours to penetrate into the rollers? I'm guessing that happens pretty much instantly. You have a very runny liquid that has to flow about 2 millimeters to its target.
@@sfdint You are correct,the oil penetrates pretty fast.Once the oil has penetrated inside it takes a while for the compound/molecules of high quality oil to stick to rollers,etc.etc.
I have talked to a technician here in Italy that works on bike racing motor/trany.Bases on the tests they have done,before they run an engine they first turn the engine with a device with out starting it, in order for the oil to lubricate everything.
They wait couple hours,then the fire the engine.
They never put the oil in and fire the engine even at low revolution.
He said: If you do you are asking for trouble.
He told me about waiting couple hours,before,i lubed the chain, wipe away i go if i needed to go out.
Now with this new procedure,i clean the chain every 250/300 km.lube, wait 2 hours,wipe the chain clean,ready to go.
I get about from 5000/7000 km out of a chain with in the specifications of 0.75mm
Spin the rear wheel for 60 seconds. That's all that is needed. I use 3 in 1 oil.
@@saveriodipoce2201 I am waiting for a tesla robot to lube my chain correctly
Money and time saving hacks: spray on GT85 being careful not to get any on the brake rotor, leave for 2 minutes, jet wash off (your chain will look like new!), re-lube with a good 2-stroke engine oil (at least 10x cheaper than any 'chain lube' and probably better), as it is so cheap you don't have to waste time putting a tiny drop on each joint, just rotate the cranks and squeeze it on (I simply refill an old chain lube bottle), wrap some kitchen roll round the chain and rotate again to wipe off any excess. 👍
question: does the jet wash not spread oily residue to brake surfaces? Or can it be relied on to get rid of the old oil. I have rim brakes.
I'm a volunteer bike mechanic and so many bikes have their drivetrains caked with dirt. I'm guessing most people just load on the lube and call it a day. At least I get some satisfaction scraping off the thick greasy dirt from the jockey wheels. I tell people exactly what you said in these videos, and show them too.
If you have to do this as a job, for more than a few days a fortnight, it gets pretty tedious and disgusting, I can tell you (having done it for 20+ years I have some {disgusting} skin in the game).
You're worth your weight in gold ⭐ I don't enjoy bike maintenance, and from what you've said I'm probably best to pay an expert
I was told at some point that the factory coating is not a lube at all but a corrosion protection coating to keep the chain shining in the packaging.
I believe this is used to prevent the chain rusting whilst being shipped
It's a"lube" just like grease is a lube that happens to be thicker than light oils and holds onto dirt pretty well.
@JamesGoddard-i7s Thing is, at least with Shimano, that stuff needs to come off or you'll have a dirty chain pretty much when you park the bike for 5 minutes outside after picking it up from the shop and there's no way of avoiding that until you strip it off the chain. Lubes applied to rollers will definitely find their way into the into the chain internals (see "capilliary action"), so you can absolutely re-grease a chain properly after removing the factory stuff, and I think, you should!
quality chains don't rust. low cost junk chains rust.
that is what I thought also.
Your freehub might be loud as heck, but my dry chain is louder
🗣"Who brought the army of rats to the ride?"
I always follow Ollie's advice "Move chain to big sprocket rear/front to open the chain" when lubing a chain.👌
not necessary
Actually, it's a lot better to do the exact opposite :-)
@@kristianvrum8979 Why?
Huh, I just did what seemed logical and you just validated my methodology. I use a hardware store grill cleaning spray with the chain off the bike and then I've sworn by T-9 Boeshield for decades - happy riding!
Totally validating @paulbuckles5353! I've been using the Boeshield for a few years as well. Thanks!
Silica actually recommends applying their lube at the top near the cassette to maximize the lube going between the rollers.
not necessary as you should rotate the chain completely around a couple of times
I have been using a 50% strength of Simple Green. It works, smells decent, and doesn't destroy anything. I have also changed to a Wax Water chain lube. The chain is nice and quiet and does not pick up much sand or grit. I live in Florida; it is wet and sandy especially in the summer. So far so good with the new lube.
Exactly this method for me, works great.
Have a quick look into Simple Green hydrogen embrittlement and ensure you're using the right product.
Great advice - 1 addition: I use thinner chain oils for dry riding, and thicker for when I know it's going to be raining or I'll be going through areas that are wet.
When it rains, my bike gets "chain suck" which has scratched my chainstay 🥲 this is even when i use "wet" lube
one of your sponsors shows me a completely different way of applying the lube on their channel (i.e. silca) so i guess that’s good proof you don’t just do what Josh tells you … lol. but i think that way is beter after trying it recently
SAE 80 gear box oil from an oil can, and if needed, white spirit to clean it, which is rarely, as gear box oil does not attract dirt.
You do get some spray onto the back wheel, but I'm not arsed, I just want my chain to last, with the minimum of maintenance.
Seems to have worked for the past 50 years or so.
Same :) As a mechanic, have dozens of 0.5-0.75 used chains & cassettes. For second life too :D 1L bottle for 13$ is for years. Chain not shine, is dirty but that's don't bozer me :) Shop sends me 15ml demo Squirt for 3$, 1L = 200$ and hours of waxing, properly waxing in bath
I'm a qualified Maintenance engineer, more importantly I hate un-necessary work. I've been installing, replacing and maintaining chains for 35 yrs for money. I've got 3 bicycles and 3 motorcycles.
The pins, bushes and rollers wear most in that order.
Wax is a crap lube, it has very little shear strength under load and does not wick back unless heat caused by friction damage melts it.
Primary drive chains in engines last for 100's of thousands of miles because they have constant clean lube, the more you clean and lube it the longer it will last.
Spending $200 on lube and cleaner to make a $50 chain last 2x longer is mathematically 2x more stupid than necessary.
I spend about $8.00 on lube for the price of a chain that costs $35. It's not about the cost only, but about the ride feel and no squeaking noises in addition to less friction.
@@markconnelly1806 Soluble oil for machining is interesting - it's designed to work under the harshest load - cutting steel - but washes off completely and easily with a hose. Leaves everything on the chain side sparkling clean.
The fact that drill oil doesn't reject water very well, is a bit of a downside, though...
@@prophetzarquon1922 I used to use it with a Scottoiler for bicycles (constant lube system) so rain wasn't an issue. Never had such a consistently clean drive train since.
Wax does not pick up dirt and allows my chain to last forever.
Bicycle chains don't get that hot so there is no need for the only semi molten wax to wick anywhere.
This point may have been made - winter, road salt and sparing lube application to inside of chain can lead to rusty chain. During winter I apply a bit more coating on the chain during winter to avoid this - and clean & dry and lube the chain more regularly
My go to lubricant for chains is heavy duty motor oil. Most motorcycle companies have it listed as the preferred chain lubricant, sure it's mainly because its kind on the o-rings but you can also just split it into a few different sized bottles and droppers and then use it for everything, even the cleaning. Sure, you get the oil all over the place and need to have the soap ready to go, but it penetrates easily and gets to all the right places, as you use more and more it lifts all the dirt and grime out faster than you think it has any right to and all you need to do after proper cleaning is hang it up for a while, fit and wipe.
I always used proper chain cleaners and what i thought were good lubricants, until i ran out of lubricant after i had used the chain cleaner and instead used the oil from my old car that i have been using for the chain on my Yamaha as it suggests in the service manual... i could not believe how much crap came out into the oil after i had used my $47 chain cleaner... I never went back and because i have 3 vehicles and 2 mowers, i never run out either.
Great stuff Alex, and your bike looks like a cherub delivered it from the heavens. Such a rich and simple aesthetic!
I watched a video on TH-cam where the guy made a research about this topic. He concluded that the best way to lubricate the chain is by shifting front derailleur to the biggest cog and shifting rear derailleur to the biggest cog. Then lube every link with a single drop from outside the chain and spin the cranks backwards. The experiment was him pouring lube on flat surface and then wiggle the chain on it. The chain started to suck the liquid with its outer part from the flat surface. I do it that way just because the research. Previously I did it as shown here. Actually I see no difference in longterm. For cleaning I put the chain in plastic bottle full of kerosene and then put in in an ultrasonic tub but you can just close the bottle, let it stay for a while and then jiggle it.
If you want to get the best from your chain you can try waxing it. I've never done it but it seems promising. But If you are lazy to clean and lube your chain, waxing may not be for you.
I think everybody know this but WD-40 is dissolvent. It's clearly not for lubing but it's great for cleaning mechanical parts such as chains and derailleurs. The downside is the price that's why I use kerosene. Other way to clean your chain fast is to put it in jar with hot water and dishwashing liquid and jiggle it then you can rinse it again with hot water only. Buying a quick release chain link will help you a lot doing chain maintenance.
A lot of information
Tolstoy's already written War and Peace: you don't have to do it again. With less factual and logical input than he did, to a work of fiction.
The kerosene in a jar method is for stripping out the factory grease (like what the chain stripper in the video does). If you wax your chain, you're only gonna do that once, because waxing doesnt attract that much dirt. You can clean the chain by pouring hot water to melt the old wax off, and then rewax.
@@zygmuntthecacaokakistocrat6589 How is this comment helpful?
Funny it was maybe this video from Josh at Silca? th-cam.com/video/Vot15ro-fcE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=lXPGWIz8hWdqxqkV😂 says @5.22
As someone with a mid-motor ebike as well, this is life changing user advice!
That clip of Si with his WD40 never gets old 😅
Knowing what it does to rubber & resin, then I look at those tires & carbon fiber & think of the poor _brake pads..._ Oof.
@@prophetzarquon1922 what does WD40 do to rubber/tyres or carbon fibre?! It's one of the most neutral substances can use
Worked fine for me 🤷♂️
@@b.k.4557 nothing neutral about PTFE
@@a1white Gather PTFE now banned hence why GT85 have had to remove it from Jan 24.
1. Do not remove the thick oil on a new chain with degreaser, just use Weldtite TF2 or similiar on a rag and simply wipe off the outside of the chain.
2. Do not use strong degreaser on any part of your bike (if you need to do that, you've used the wrong kind of lubricant in the first place).
3. Do not remove the chain from your bike unless you intend to replace it (completely unnecessary, and just a waste of time).
4. Do not use degreaser as part of your regular maintenance, wash your bike with ordinary cleaning products like MucOff Bike Cleaner or similar.
5. It doesn't really matter how much oil you apply on the chain, as long as it's enough to lubricate the rollers (you'll be wiping off the excess anyway).
6. In reality, it's using the bike that causes chain wear, and not your maintenance routines (just replace chain when it's worn out, and think nothing more of it).
7. Don't listen to advice in videos on TH-cam where they are over-complicating things :-)
I not only wipe chain, but pulleys. Everything is much cleaner then and makes next lubing much quicker, as I don't have to scrape dirt from them.
A old toothbrush works very well. A couple of tiny drops can easily lubricate your chain without getting messy.
Best results I’ve had is with Squirt lube, after fully degreasing, applied liberally on the upper of the chain whilst back pedalling squeezes the wax into the rollers as it passes through the jockey wheels, let it dry over night. No more degreasing, just needs a brush and reapply periodically.
So with wax lube you don't degrease at all? Just wipe and reapply?
@@bonbonflippers4298Correct! I take a rag to my chain twice a week and wipe it clean, then apply drip wax. Every 1000 miles or so, I put the chain in boiling water, let it dry, and hot wax it which lasts over 200 miles alone, but combined with the drip wax you get this cycle where your chain and drivetrain are able to be cleaned with water or simple bike wash soap.
Edit: I should mention I am riding about 200 miles a week.
@@bonbonflippers4298 I give my chain a 5 minute boil every so often. That gets shot of the old wax.
I use squirt too, it's easy to use once you've done the initial de grease.
I don't do it incorrectly anymore. I started using chain wax last year and I'm happy with it. 😄
I have just started GLF wax 😁
I use ear wax. Cheap and in plenty supply.
Wax shills are here 🙄
@@papalegba6796 So what? Just use what you feel works best for you. 🚵
@@papalegba6796right? Commenters out here earning their $$ from Big Wax.
have had my bike since 2014 and replaced the chain for the first time 4 months back. it was chain stretch that got it.
I lubricate my chains a drop per roller, and I typically wait about a minute per horizontal chain section between chainring and the cog, before advancing the next section, to let the lube penetrate inside rollers, so as little as possible ends up on drivetrain teeth. I also preheat bottle of lube in a cup of hot water, so it runs a bit thinner and penetrates the rollers a bit faster.
Low odor paint thinner/kerosene based solvent, really cheap, it's what we used in our bike shop's solvent cleaning station. it's made to quickly dissolve old grease and flush out dirty oil. A (US) gallon is about $7. Some choice oils are 2 stroke premix synthetic oil, you can add a very thin amount, you can use it very sparingly. A 8 ounce bottle is about $4.
I use squirt line and have for a couple of years excellent.. a tip from me would be to microwave the application bottle for 10 seconds shake then apply, I also put it into big ring on back and one off the top on the back cassette to allow the lube to fully seat for a about 10 mins.. works for me 😊 Pete 🚴♀️🚴♀️🚴🏻👍
I used squirt for many years. Changed to silca super secret. sss is like squirt, but cleaner and lasts longer.
I’m retired - - I don’t have time to clean my chain! 😂 Seriously - how often should an average-mileage rider change his chain? I notice the better ride and put on a new chain every other year (it’s my best maintenance tip!).
Yes ... finally someone with common sense in bike chain maintenance! So cheap and easy to do:-) Hats off to you sir!
Everything very well explained and absolutely correct in this video. Funny giving this advice to roadies with their 5k plus bikes though, as this is absolute basic knowledge and routine for any fixed gear rider concerning our drivetrains. And by the way, I apply one drop per each individual roller aswell, nothing nerdy about that.
outstanding and exactly how everyone has should chain clean/lub
I reckon the wee gizmo that one runs the chain through is quite clever ❤
Still: Make your own experiences, try different things and keep in mind that there isn't 'the' product for every type of riding. I've had dry lubes that kept the drivetrain nice and clean for multiple (short) rides but when you rode way over 100 km in total, the chain got noisy and rattly because the lube must have *evaporated* - same in the rain, don't try your full-day epic in unstable weather conditions, some of these products are gone after just a few kilometers in the wet and break your heart when you move on with a noisy AF chain. Sometimes, you better accept that your bike is getting wet and dirty and apply something more sticky like mineral oil or wet-specific products (which attract dirt by nature) in the first place. Before anybody slides in the comments below, we're staying in the non-waxing realms, here. 😊
It would be amazing if there were a TH-cam Channel that focused on Bikes and did independent lube testing and published results. If only a channel like that existed.
youtube.com/@zerofrictioncycling992?si=vDJ6irv0vzdsLaP4
The one with the guy crying about 1x drivetrains because supposedly it makes you lose 2 watts? 😂 Yeah they’re totally grounded in reality and never become overly obsessed with bullshit
It is called zero friction cycling : it is an independent tester who tests a lot of lubricant in with the same protocol. Everything has been summarized on his web site
@@fouderock14he will be reamed by Hambini, soon.
@@fouderock14 ZFC is obviously backed by Silca-it’s pretty clear from what they put out. They always seem to hype up Silca's performance while unfairly knocking other brands without much proof. Yet, people still buy into what they say without questioning it. 😂
I must clean a new chain?! New chain feel looks different to me now. Thank you so much for the tip, got the rest right.
Imersive waxing is by far the best way to lube a chain and maintain a drivetrain. Your chain is completely flushed clean each time it goes in the hot wax and there is no black oily filth on any of the drivetrain. It saves so much time wasted cleaning the bike... plus you will usually double your chain life.
How so? You mean you don't need to dewax (and wash the dirt) before reapplying? You got me interested since I despise the oily tar that forms
@@fernosan I pour a kettle of boiling water over the chain in the kitchen sink before immersing in the molten wax in the double boiler on the stove top... paraffin wax starts to melt at 37C so 100C water carries away any contaminants between the pins and rollers along with the old wax
@@fernosanif you’re mostly riding road, you literally only need to wipe your chain with a microfiber towel to pick up the dirt it may accumulate. Dip it in the hot wax, shake around and let sit for 10 minutes, then pull it and hang to dry. That’s it. The longest process is the first time you prep your chain. It’s much simpler long-term
@@fernosan because wax is a solid lubricant most dirt will just wash off. I recently got my waxed mtb chain caked in mud and after nothing more than a wash with the hosepipe it was clean enough that I was happy to put it down on the living room carpet. When you re-wax all the old wax melts off and any remaining dirt is flushed out. The best info on chain waxing can be found from Zero Friction Cycling. He is the best regarded for independent testing of different chain lubricants.
@@fernosan no, you dont have to clean the chain every time you re wax. just dump the chain in the molten wax. chains stay very clean when waxed, so the wax does not get contaminated quickly. you dont even have to clean a new chain of the grease they come with as always so tediously stated by 'experts' as paraffin is as good a solvent as anything, esp when at high temps. probably better in fact. and the grease wont change the wax properties and will be utterly insignificant by proportion. i really get sick of hearing ppl say a new chain has to be degreased before waxing. its so silly and shows ignorance of basic chemistry. not having to clean a new chain is actually another benefit of immersion waxing.
If you live somewhere that salts their roads a lot in winter I do recommend DROWING the chain in oil for those months. Even spraying some on the cassette is a good idea.
Unless you like all the face plates of your chain and your cassette to completely rust up in one winter
Luckily I live in a county with a corrupt council who barely grit the roads.
Clean cogs with Diesel, applied with a 1'' brush with a small pan to collect the dripping. Then use a clean rag moist with Diesel to wipe the chain.
Clean after every ride.
I use Silca Synergetic. It is fairly expensive, but it does an excellent job. Instead of marinating the links with it, and ending with most of it on the floor, I transfer it from its bottle to another one with a needle applicator. I apply two small drops, one on each side of a roller pin and all is good to go. After each ride I swipe the chain and the gears with a cloth. At the 300 Km mark, I re-apply. It lasts for ages and the drivetrain attracts no dirt.
I started using it a few months ago. The stuff lasts ages on the chain, even after cycling through torrential rain. Great stuff.
I use synerg-e for training and synergetic for racing. For me, I do around 500-600 km before reliving, so every week or so.
@@awakenedbahamut2574 I found that Synergetic lasts for about 300-400Km on the dry. It does not matter though. Applying it with a needle nose bottle will last for years. I wonder why Silca abandoned the initial needle nose bottle for the one that literally bathes the chain.
@@cauldron101 silca says they found that the needle applicator actually doesn't put enough lube on the chain and it works better with a bit more on there.
@@awakenedbahamut2574 Perhaps it was me adding more than I should with the new cap. Most of it was ending on the floor. I will test applying twice with the needle nose to see if it feels any different.
My bike has a 28 year old chain probably past it's best but it works nicely it gets a spray before some rides and s thorough clean once in a while.
Please help me with a clarification. Silca is GCN sponsor, and we see Josh regularly. He made a video in the Spring called 'Stop Wasting Your CHAIN LUBE! Know the BEST Way to Apply It!'. Very detailed deep dive into the life of a cycle chain, and he explains why you should lube the outside of the chain. In this tutorial Alex, using Silca products, advocates the lubrication to be applied on the inside.
Are we in or out?
Surely you just do both as if you've no memory of having done it yesterday?
Elbow Grease is a fantastic degreaser.
Can be bought pretty cheaply too from B&M or Ho.e Bargains (here in UK)
That's where I get my long weights from.
I fully agree!
Wear gloves when handling anything the lube gets on including rags the nickel on the chain can cause Pompholyx (dyshidrotic eczema) in some people over time.
Putting the chain in a ultrasonic degreasing bath worked wonders for me.
Is there another good household use for it? I'm not a fan of single-purpose appliances for every thing...
@@prophetzarquon1922 All your componants. Also your vinyl records, tools, jewellery, false teeth...
@@russyJ20 If you can't afford ultrasound, a second hand whole body vibration machine will get the grits and dust out, and can be used for stretching, less so as exercise.
Because some chains are using Quicklink like mine, I remove them and soak it quickly with petrol then wash it with water and liquid soap.
Put it back and I lubricate it with Silicone spray.
Doing it for 4 years and my bike chains are still good and no rusts.
Once upon a time our family would use kerosene to clean chains in a container. I think the bicycles, especially from England were very high quality steel. Before it was stolen by a drunk, I had Melvan Star bicycle with a 4 (or was it 5) speed Strumley- Archer gears. Following the advice of old timers, I looked after that bike by cleaning with water and a damp rag; applying kerosene to the frame and wheels; and wiping it off with an old towel. What is the modern mechanics take on all this?
Funny thing, Alec. Silca, you know your sponsor, recommend doing it on the outside. At the top just when the chain hits the cassette.
Pretty sure you're talking about different outsides. The "outside" in the video means the "closed" part on the sides of the chain, facing the frame and away from the bike. Where the markings are stamped into the chain
Sgrasso for deagreasing and chainsaw chain oil mixed with a little bit of diesel for lubing. Cheap and good. Nothing fancy.
spend lots money on chain cleaners , might aswell buy a new chain
Depends on the chain.
Little secret: air tool oil is a light non-detergent oil that can be used for many purposes around the home & shop. It's super cheap if you buy at Harbor freight. 4oz. bottle just 99 cents. 16oz bottle 5 bucks. Been using it for years on everything from firearms to bicycles.
I found the easiest to apply lube is to apply it on top of the cassette and backpedal. You can hold the bottle very stable to not wander around and thus avoid getting lube every where. It's fast as well, I do just 2 revolutions of the chain. Backpedal some time and wipe off. As for degreasing, I use regular white spirit. It's cheap and works very well. Just put some on a cloth and wipe the chain clean. I don't get people buying expensive degreasers (well, maybe for the environmental aspect).
Teflon lube.40 years no problems on Campy Record.Have a nice ride
I apply lube on the rollers while they are off the bike. Pull the chain around a wrench to engage the rollers and help the lube to get in there, then wipe the chain as dry as i could.
Just today I had a guy come in to lube his chain - He wanted oil on the chain, cassette and chainrings. I think he thought I was crazy when I said first you need to clean the dirt off. Some bikes come in with a thick layer of something like chainsaw oil over the whole chain
@gcntech As much as I liked having a waxed chain, it doesn't work well in my hot, dry climate. After going through all the trouble of the cleaning/application process, it would immediately melt off in less than an hour getting everywhere it didn't need to go. Having spent many years working in clothing factories, I recently started using Singer sewing machine oil with great success. Sewing machines run for hours at over 6000 RPM in the hottest and dustiest environments you can imagine. The oil is thick so it stays put, but not overly greasy or tacky so it attracts minimal dust and dirt. The only drawback is that it does have a strong odor during the application.
Buy an oil applicator it actually makes oiling your chain fun. I think the one I got was for model trains. You can put a tiny bit of oil on each chain link easily with precision. Don’t use the live bottle.
Interesting. I just learned to apply the Lube to each link on the inside. I've been doing top and bottom. Too much Lube. 😮 a good clean and Lube required.
My theory is this whole thing about waxing chains is based on confusion caused by differences in UK English vs. US English.
In the UK, paraffin is a liquid fuel. It's what's known as kerosene in the US. In the US, paraffin is a solid wax that's often sold for sealing jam jars.
My theory is that someone in the US read about people in the UK soaking their chains in paraffin. So people in the US started soaking chains in the US version of paraffin, which of course in the US would mean soaking your chain in liquid/molten wax.
Thanks for listening.
Literally two comments down, there is a reply illustrating conflation between kerosene & wax. 🙃
Having used both, I'd give a thumbs up to cleaning with 'paraffin' fuel but a meh to sealing with 'paraffin' wax (& yeah, they're totally different things! LOL)...
Bicycle chains mostly need to be _clean._
In other words waxing is a big mistake. But waxing works really well. I have no idea why it works so well but it makes my chain last forever and stops me from getting dirty or staining my clothes. You should try it.
Can you do a video on sub compact cranks? I'm finding it difficult to find ones that plug and play with hollowtech bottom brackets and keep the same chainline. What are the dos and don'ts of installing a 46/30 on a road bike?
Why on earth does everyone think you need a degreaser! To clean your chain, wet a paper towel in WD 40 and clean the chain using it. When done, the chain should look new. Then apply 3 in 1 oil to the links, one at a time, being sure to get the space between links and roller. Finally, using a clean paper towel, clean off the excess oil after spinning the chain for a minute or so. That's it. I clean my chain after each ride (3 minutes) and oil it every few rides. I also use WD 40 for the derailleur moving parts. Why not?
Car gearbox oil (manual/stick shift gearbox!), EP80, lubricates a chain amazingly and costs a fraction of specialist oils. If you're really cheapskate, car engine oil isn't bad. I lubricate often, never clean the chain, and get about 7000-8000 miles of hard urban riding (in all weathers) out of a chain. Mind you, I do ride a single-speed transmission. After that mileage the chain is probably too stretched to run on a derailleur.
To be honest, it sounds like a lot of faff and buying new chains more regularly feels like a much better use of time than mucking about degreasing brand new ones.
If GCN was sponsored by a chain manufacturer instead of Silca, they would recommend getting a new chain when your chain gets dirty...
Fill the syringe with lube and use the needle to precisely place the lube between the roller and the plate. Leave for a few hours so that the lube has time to enter the space between the roller and the pin, then wipe off any excess lube, if any. For a thicker lube a thicker needle is required. A little slower method, but little to no grease is wasted and there is no mess.
Be sure to cover the needle after use and be especially careful when handling the syringe with the needle. Do this at your own risk.
A "secret" in the motorcycle community is kerosene. Yep, good old and inexpensive kerosene is a very effective yet gentle degreaser / cleaner. Get a commercial quality spray bottle (one-time expense) and because the kerosene is so cheap you never think about the price when using it. I end up cleaning my bicycle chain (and clean the gears) 3 or 4 times (quality brushes and paper towel wipe downs between "each round") until it is a very light grey on the paper towel. Make sure to NOT use camp fuel, butane, etc. - kerosene always comes in the white and blue containers.
Of course, if you have disk brakes be very careful to never get any kerosene on the rotors (even when using muck-off guards I'm still spraying slightly away from the rotors).
Great advice, as usual! Thanks!!
I wonder what cost less in the long run. Replacing a chain early due to not cleaning it, or the cost of chain cleaner and lube over the period that other chain lasted.
Depends on the chain you're getting, I'd imagine. I've heard others claiming that a higher end (not necessarily "ultralight only lasts for one race" higher end) chain lasts a lot longer due to better metal treatments, so the price evens out in the long run; if I had a more expensive chain I'd also be more willing to get a nicer lube and take better care of it to stretch that investment even further.
Not so much if it's a cheap $15-20 chain and another $25-30 worth of cleaner and lube, though whether or not that's actually economical in the long run, I'm not really sure. I did experiment with even cheaper AliExpress chains and got decent mileage-per-dollar out of them, but it ends up being a lot more work to stay on top of them...
I choose both
Honestly, probably the cleaning products. I don't use the most expensive stuff, it's like 10 bucks per bottle and lasts a while but I still go through a bottle every few months. A SRAM force chain is $30-40 but the noises from not cleaning it would drive me insane
It's not just the chain. You'll be replacing expensive worn out front rings and cogset too, if enough grinding paste is left on the chain to do its thing. Wax is king.
Lubing is way cheaper even with inexpensive drive trains, unless you are overpaying for your chemicals.
You'd only need isopropanol for washing off dirt between oil applications. It is totally reusable until it becomes contaminated too much with rain water from insides of rollers.
And no more than a 1L of alkali based cleaning concentrate for complete cleanse 1-2 times a season. That will last for a very long time as well.
As for the oil, 100mL would last you like 15k km if you apply it with a syringe needle every 100km, which takes more time but is way less messy and more effective since you are able to feed right under the roller through the gaps between them and plates, and there is almost nothing to wipe off afterwards. It takes me ~0.6cc of oil for a 112L chain.
Confession time.
A not infrequent method of mine is brake cleaner followed by chainsaw chain oil. Hey! It comes in three viscosities even.
Hey, its better than nothing!
Would really like to know how many people actually have the tools and knowledge to remove their chain. I’ve never done it before. Also same applies for a dedicated indoor bike?
everyone who regularly services their own bike will have inexpensive quick link pliers and a bag of inexpensive quick links from amazon... also Dawn dishwashing liquid is an excellent degreaser so you don't need overpriced bicycle chain degreasers
It is easy with a quick link and a bit more difficult with the old Shimano pins (though Shimano has moved to quick links too, generally). You get quicker at it. The link removal tools in the shape of a X allow you to tighten the link using the tool, because squeezing expands and tightens the link. Even the smallest 2USD tools are fine. Links sold in packs of 5 or 10 are very cheap and last 20 - 40 removal/replacements, or you can change more often. I have have had an old one fall off so I keep a spare in my saddle bag.
Cross your chain to open up the links as you add the evaporing carrier lube also, adding 'hair wrap' to the jockey wheels aids something apparently.
"Don't fall for marketing schemes"? Okay. I'll keep using WD-40. Good enough to clean the chain very well.
Just needs to be careful as not to overspray, the wiping process needs to be good, and reapply it often, but that also helps in keeping up with the overall cleanness of the bike...
If you immersive wax your chain you don't need to be careful with overspray, just a quick wipe with an old towel after a wet ride, you don't rewax as often as you would reapply WD40 and your drivetrain, hands and legs stay clean. Ok, you get little specks of wax on the drive-side chain stay and big ring teeth but this easily wipes off with a rag if it bothers you.
gasoline or petrol if you speak UK English in a plastic container add your chain and quick link shake it for a moment then let it settle, repeat twice remove chain and q link; then wash chain in alcohol hang it up to air dry. Return it to your bike and lube each roller as described by the presenter back pedal wipe any excess oil. Then enjoy a ride with a smile on your dial.
Research shows that the best place to apply lube is at the TOP of the chain just after it leaves the rear cog (after putting the chain on the largest chainring at the front and the largest cog at the rear). At this location the chain links are experiencing their greatest sideways forces allowing for the best penetration of lube into the inner pins and rollers of the chain.
I stopped cycling these types of bikes just to skip the hassle of lubing and cleaning excessively. I am a commuter and cleaning the bike after each commute (at work or at home) was not something I did or wanted to do. Instead I run a bike with internal hub (Skeppshult for Swedes, similar to "Dutch bike" for all on TH-cam). The bike feels slower but in practice it is tops 5 min slower on an hour long commute. The chain is different (stronger) as it doesn't need to skip to other gears, so it is not as important to clean (obsessively clean)...still important though, still something I neglect.
Meh, a quick spray with WD-40 every couple of rides is fine.
It may not last as long as other lubricants, but it's cheap and it only takes a few seconds and helps keep it clean.
Just be careful to not get it anywhere close to the brake rotor
Waxing tips
1) While the addition of lubricative powders to wax may make little different to watts of efficiency, it may improve the life of the chain. I am not sure but my chaing has lasted 50,000 km. I use Molybdenum disulphide and PTFE powder which can be purchased from alixp cheaply.
2) I find that candle wax , i.e. candles from a dollar tree (100 yen shop) work fine. Others use bees wax / paraffin mixtures.
3) If you have a slow cooker (ideally) or other electrical cooker (I use an IH cooker and a steel bottomed pot) then you can heat wax outside, and avoid wax smells in the house. If you burn the wax it will make it more brittle and certainly changes the wax but I find that the wax is pretty tolerant of being simmered for a while. I.e. while slower cookers are recommended, I stopped using one for the time it took to melt the wax, and do not seem to have noticeable ill effect from overheating my wax.
4) There is no need to have wax anywhere that you can see but I find it does not hurt to put a lot of wax on the chain by letting the wax cool a little before hanging out to harden.
5) pull the chain off the back of the derailleur.
6) Since the wax is so cheap you can use it as a cleaner (perhaps changing your wax every now and again, once a year?) and just put the chain straight in wax. I only wash after rainy days because I find that a waxed chain picks up so little dirt on other days.
7) Some use an ultrasound cleaner but I use a whole body vibration machine to shake dirt out of my chain into detergent occasionally.
8) Since molten wax is a cleaner you can put a new chain straight in the wax and the grease will be cleaned off making little difference to the wax.
9) When the wax is molten is the only time it will make your hands dirty. One cooled you can hold the chain, or wear suit trousers on your road bike with little fear. Perhaps not white suit trousers.
10) Missing links are cheap but I still use my about 20 times. I carry a spare in my saddle bag because I have had an old missing link fall off. If you want to be safe, even a non KMC generic link should last 10 times but your mileage may vary.
11) I wax ever 200-300 km but again, it will depend on the chain, riding conditions, and how long you want your chain to last.
12) I put the front derailleur into the smaller chainring because it makes it easier to thread.
13) I use a knee pad to kneel next to my bike on the ground.
14) I thread onto the jockey wheels first, by poking in and turning each wheel in turn.
15) It is important to thread the chain on the inside of the little tap between the two jockey wheels. I may even remove it one day. Missing the tab is the only thing I have got wrong. I rode for a while making a noise before I realised so it is not such a big deal, imho.
18) Threading the chain through the front dérailleur is easier once the wax is hard.
19) It is easy to loose links on gravel or grass, if you do it in your garden/yard. When I thread up, I put the links in an old ash tray so I don't lose them on the ground.
20) It is good to have a cooker with a timer.
21) It is good to have another timer to tell you when the wax has cooled down for 5 or 10 minutes depending on the ambient temperature. Taking the chain out of the hot very-liquid wax may also be fine.
22) If you use two pairs of pliers, the X shaped quick link pliers to open the link by squeezing your hand, and a pair of two Vs joined at the apex for lengthening and closing the link by squeezing it is more convenient than using the pedal to close the link because you probably need one hand to keep the link sides together, and another to turn the pedal, and a third to stop the chain from dropping off the chainwheel. Ni self respecting mechanic would have any difficulty, but I am not a mechanic and like having both types of plyers. That said my X shaped plyers are just thin nosed pliers from a 100 yen shop that I have ground down a bit to make them thinner for removing the link by squeezing your hand, it makes it easier. Normal X shaped pliers need to be pulled apart to open the link, which is slightly more difficult.
23) Keep some spare bushings, the ring shaped bits between the chain plates, because you may lose one when removing or repkace misding links. Keep one bushing in your saddle bag. I have mine in a tiny pill box with a missing link and a presta to schrader valve converter.
This individual is trying to impress us with a lot of bullshit here
@@dickiesis4486 I don't know what bullshit is but the above is what I do and my chain won't wear out. If you were impressed, that would be nicer.
I'm still using the WD40. It's perfect, nothing wrong with it.
do what works for you, but know that WD-40 isn't even classified as a lubricant (it's a solvent).
Generic WD40 is just outright a mistake as it's multi-purpose and a degreaser, but WD does have a bicycle chain specific oil and that's totally fine.
If you think the generic WD40 is perfect, then it's likely that you're:
- wearing down your chain quicker than typical bicycle chain lubes, let alone longevity of wax based chains.
- not measuring the components' wear.
- not riding as much or as hard.
@@SonnyDarvish From WD40 themselves....
While WD-40 Multi-Use Product it is not a grease, it is formulated with strong lubricating oils and other ingredients, and is a terrific product to use for bike maintenance. It does not attract dirt or moisture to metal surfaces - just be sure to wipe off any excess WD-40 Multi-Use Product before riding.
If you have proof otherwise then report them for false advertising.
Simon used to use it his whole life until he ended up working at GCN and getting free high end lubes to use and advertise.
I'm 60 in 6 weeks and have been using it my whole life and never had a problem with it because i use it correctly.
Fill your chain cleaner with heating oil or diesel , spin it until freed up and saturated , dry with a clean rag using an airline to blow all the crap out , polish , re oil with two stroke oil and away you go .
I still think, the best way to lube a chain is, use degreaser on a brand new chain, wash the chain, then put that chain on your bike, then use squirt liquid wax by applying 1 drop per chain roller. After 100km, I use a rag to clean the chain and apply squirt again. Also apply squirt evertime after riding in wet weather.
That old clip of Si is fantastic 😂 I bet that if he had a bike with disc brakes, he would have applied some WD40 on there too. To get rid of the loud breaking noise 😂
The effects of WD-40 on a rubber brake pad are pretty abjectly terrible, too.
A nice layer of grit provides a protective pattina...
Remove the chain and soak it in you favorite solvent for at least 1/2 hour. Then remove chain and wipe off and if you have an air compressor blow off any excess solvent and grime with compressed air.
Then reinstall the chain and lubricate the inner rollers, or hot wax chain before reinstalling.
No need to buy the snake oil. The secret inexpensive lube is bar and chain oil for chain saws. Use a toothbrush to clean your chain and the bits. Also the mechanical chain cleaners with a little soapy water works well. Use a squeeze dropper to apply the bar and chain oil to your chain.
In that case what about just mineral oil. I use it in my chainsaw
@@billluke8965 Mineral oil works too.
Well i am in the gifted spot to have 3 bikes. 1 MTB, 1 Road and one Trekking to and from Work. I clean the Chain on my MTB and Road after every ride. On my Trekking i usualy do it once every month. If you ride in the wet and or snow, do it more often tho.
I'll keep doing it my way.
Has always worked for me and I'm not materialistic so if it breaks I simply buy a new one
What does materialism have to do with it?
I have steel parts on my ebike, they are super durable and there is no wear on them, I know my chain needs lube by the sound when I am shifting gears.
I'm currently testing "Fluna Tech" ceramic coating, it's intended for firearms, but I figure reducing friction and not attracting dirt apply to firearms as well, so might be worth a try.
For chain cleaning. When the weather is somewhat cloudy or rainy. I suggest you can just wash your chain with water to remove the dirt. Then just wipe it and apply lube. Also monitor your pedalling to check if it feels heavier to pedal or not. If it does. Check if you need to re lube your chain or maybe your chain needs to be thoroughly cleaned. I also suggest in order to let your chain last longer. Always pedal in a gear that isn't too heavy if you aren't going on a race. Just have a relaxing ride to let your chain last longer. Always inspect your chain and replace it if it is worn out already
The advice to not use a too large gear applies even more to your knees than your chain.
Do I get it right? You first clean the chan with a degreaser to bare metal, next you wax it, and when it gets dirty over time you lube it? Somehow I feel I have got it not completely right...
EDIT: is lubing and waxing the same thing? You sometimes say lubing and sometimes you say waxing. Do you mean the same thing by saying these two? Thank you
@@paul7000 when he is saying lube, he is refering to oil. waxing is applying wax. both are lubricants.
Nooooo…… If you don’t put some sort of oil or wax based lubricant on the side plates….they will RUST! I’ve been using whatever (from 3 in 1 oil in the 80’s) applied to the roller links but if you totally clean and degrease your chain, unless you apply something to the side plate links, bare steel RUSTS
I believe in keeping the drivetrain components clean enough to eat off of. Wipe the excess chain lubricant off the chain, cassette sprockets, and chainrings after each lubrication. If you’re using a hot wax lubricant, clean the wax buildup from your cassette and chainrings while the chain is off the bike. Cassettes are most easily cleaned by removing the rear wheel, and threading a shop towel between the sprockets. Wheel removal also facilitates cleaning the “nether regions” around the bottom bracket shell, seatstays, chainstays, caliper, and derailleurs. Ride clean, ride happy!😁❤️
Clean bike feels like the fastest bike.
Totally by accident, I discovered that extra-wide shoelaces (& cord or narrow old rope) are a quick & easy tool to clean between the sprockets of a grimy cassette.
I know NOTHING about bicycle chains, but there is a similar raging debate about motorcycle chains.
I believe that you should always lube your motorcycle chain, after a long ride. The chain gets quite hot, and that heat draws the oil into the insides of the chain. Plus motorcycles generally get left outside, where it's cold / damp / or even totally wet. You need an oil surface for protection. If you do this, the next time you ride, when you engage first gear, you can REALLY feel the dampening and smoothing effects of the oil, that has got inside the chain. Also "gear oil" is thought to be best. It's quite thin, so any grit gets thrown off, as the chain is moving quite fast.
I cycle too, and I love it. Hope my points are useful?
The official line from Shimano the last time I checked was that their factory grease is best left on the chain until the chain needs oiling again. It's not as efficient as a lower viscosity chain lube, but it's as close to a waxed chain as you'll get without waxing the chain yourself, but much better than wax in terms of its behaviour in wet muddy conditions. Funny how UK based GCN never seem to mention that waxed chains are basically useless in wet conditions, as someone who also lives in a cold temperate maritime climate and hits standing water and mud on every spin, even in the middle of the summer, waxing is a massive waste of time if you ride in the rain.
not entirely. there are all weather wax formulas and its still massively cleaner than lube. I'll take my wax any day over getting my hands grimy from a tiny touch of the chain.
@@Metalshark100 What are you doing touching the chain with your hands in the first place? I clean and lube mine on the bike without ever touching it with my hands.
@@peglor when chain comes off or if you need to take off the back wheel or if you need to take off the chain. I never need to worry about oily gross lube. But by all means if you enjoy using lube then stick with it. It's not for me and I'm cleaner for it
@@Metalshark100 Not a case of 'enjoying' using lube, but I definitely don't enjoy all the extra time wasted with waxing chains in a wet climate where wax doesn't protect them as well.
Wax is not a lubricant anyway 😂
Since I started looking after my chain properly the first thing I noticed, they last twice as long! And I don't wax! Yet! I used to clean the chain with the rest of the bike with a pressure washer then give it a "really good" oiling! Now I spend time cleaning it and lubing it properly and yes I too lube each individual roller! 😂 In the long run it makes financial sense but I don't get awful chain noises or even, god forbid, clicking! I'm gonna try waxing on my summer road bike next year. I'm not sure about wax on Gravel & MTB, especially through the UK winter 🤔
Yep, I can confirm that when riding in wet and dirty conditions, the wax on the chain doesn't last very long. Sometimes just a little above 100 km, even with the hot wax method. If you don't have the chance to clean and dry it immediately after riding (like when bike packing and you have to store your bike outside while it's still raining), the chain will easily start to pick up rust. I still use it on my gravelbike, because cleaning your bike is so much easier. And it quickly becomes a habit after riding to look after your chain, which will only take you 2 minutes with a microfibre towel and some wet wax. Occasionally, you need to rewax with hot wax and don't forget to use reusable quick links. Sometimes you need to remove some buildup of wax between the smallest cogs, but it's nothing compared to the grime you get with oil.
@@lukasg6504 Hi lukas thanks for the info and tips! Most appreciated 👍
my routine for my commuter with shimano GRX 2x10, and also for shimano 105 r7020 2x11...
i wipe the chain with rag every 60-100km, apply lube and wipe it off. when i used muckoff crap chain was done in 2500km... wear was at 0.75% lol at muckoff price for 15euro for less than 1dcl it is a snake oil ripoff, ofc i found out there is FAR better and far cheaper option: this is how i lube my chains, never take them off, and i even often ride in rain and on gravel: MIX 1 part white spirit and 1 part manual gear oil 75w80. that is like 20euro for 2liters lol (lifetime), wipe chain with rag every 60-100km, apply loads of lube since it is cheap, wait few hours or maybe overnight, so the white spirit evaporates, and wipe it off... easy fast cheap. the idea is the white spirit dilute the oil so it can penetrate in to rollers and then evaporate off...
and u know what is the best part after 8500km wear is at 0.4% that means chain will last at least 13.000km... most of the oils are just snake oils at insane prices, imagine this: muckoff ludicrus cost 130e for 1dcl, that is 1300e per liter ;)
Josh from Silca recommends applying lube on the top of the chain, right as it engages the cassette when backpedalling, in the largest sprocket.
He says it is to facilitate penetration, as it is the location where the chain is most "opened up", and then the rollers turn several times around the cassette and pulleys. This enables the lube to penetrate and coat the inside of the chain more efficiently.
Any opinion on this?
There is something about it, but I prefer to put a wax on each roller and rotate each one with fingers so it goes inside. It's just a couple of rollers...😅
I use this method but there is barely any difference between using this and the one in the video. I'd say it doesn't really matter which one you do as you get the same results.
@@humanflame4271 Barely a difference in performance maybe but also barely a difference in difficulty and time as well.
Finish by massaging the super secret sauce into the rollers.