Very nice. Do you still have this truck? I ask- because I see many "spray foam rust repair" videos- but rarely a "follow up" video, or a "1-3 years later" comparison. IMO this is a great method for auto body. DIY metal repair the "correct" way is still costly (>$150 for a BS HF flux core MIG) and requires skills many don't have. Also- when a metal is heated, it changes the temper- and that will be the first place oxygen attacks. Many vehicles use plastic panels & facia, even entire bodies of "Fiberglass". Many vehicles use molded Styrofoam behind bumpers as a filler for shape, not structural integrity. I see no harm at all in using this method correctly; don't plug purposeful body & frame drain holes. Preparation of the underlying area is important. Remove as much rust as possible, shoot 2 coats of rusty primer- then STUFF it. Body Shops hate it because if not used properly- it can make matters way worse, and their time is your money.
I'm doing this to my old gmc right now. If it were affordable, I'd have new metal welded in. I'm also saving for school so the ghetto methods sometimes have to do
Back in the 1980s, I did this to the door of my '77 Olds 98, which was literally flapping, it held up OK for the next year or two, at which point I sold the car. But I doubt it had any potential as a long term fix, cars that used expanding foam for soundproofing were notorious for catastrophic rust, since the foam tended to leave big bubbles in which water would get trapped. On the plus side (sort of) the body shop had done more respectable (and expensive!!) fixes on that car with fiberglass and they didn't last any longer.
I'm going to try something similar with my '05 Accord, which is just starting to show rust-through in a few places. I'll start with rust neutralizer, which works if you can get it to all of the rust, which is no easy task on a car. Then I'll use vegetable oil, which dries and hardens over a very, very long period of time; just enough to cover the surface of the neutralized rust. The foam will be next, than another layer of vegetable oil from above, in hopes of keeping any condensation out of the foam. I have no idea how this will hold up, but with a little bondo on the outside, I expect it to look passable while it lasts. The car has 140,000 miles, so it doesn't owe me anything, and I'm not about to throw $2,500 into a still temporary paint and repair job.
Actually the best way to go if ur gonna do it this way is use fiberglass over the foam then put the body filler over that and then sand and paint it u just gotta make sure that u get the foam completely covered
Did you use 2lb or half pound spray foam? It looks like half pound? 2lb would actually add a little structural integrity. 2 lb would set in 10 mins. 24 hours for a full cure. I work as a spray foam helper so this is good news for me haha
I ised self tappers all along the inside of the fender, and in places where there was a lot of foam, I used long wood screws that would grab pretty well
Check out local junk yards for cheap spare parts like wing ore rocker panels i guess 25$ and in the years get a wig welder have a friend show you basic improve your skills its a great hobby good luck
![[ ออกกอง ] วัยหนุ่ม 2544 โลกหลังลูกกรง..ทัวร์กองถ่ายหนังใน "คุกของจริง" | JUSTดูIT.](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vB--aOkZCpw/mqdefault.jpg)
like seeing your progress man , can't wait to see how she looks when its all painted !
Very nice. Do you still have this truck? I ask- because I see many "spray foam rust repair" videos- but rarely a "follow up" video, or a "1-3 years later" comparison. IMO this is a great method for auto body. DIY metal repair the "correct" way is still costly (>$150 for a BS HF flux core MIG) and requires skills many don't have. Also- when a metal is heated, it changes the temper- and that will be the first place oxygen attacks. Many vehicles use plastic panels & facia, even entire bodies of "Fiberglass". Many vehicles use molded Styrofoam behind bumpers as a filler for shape, not structural integrity. I see no harm at all in using this method correctly; don't plug purposeful body & frame drain holes. Preparation of the underlying area is important. Remove as much rust as possible, shoot 2 coats of rusty primer- then STUFF it. Body Shops hate it because if not used properly- it can make matters way worse, and their time is your money.
The rust is back. Guaranteed. This is a 6 month repair on that truck, one year tops
I'm doing this to my old gmc right now. If it were affordable, I'd have new metal welded in. I'm also saving for school so the ghetto methods sometimes have to do
gotta do what the funds let you do
Back in the 1980s, I did this to the door of my '77 Olds 98, which was literally flapping, it held up OK for the next year or two, at which point I sold the car. But I doubt it had any potential as a long term fix, cars that used expanding foam for soundproofing were notorious for catastrophic rust, since the foam tended to leave big bubbles in which water would get trapped. On the plus side (sort of) the body shop had done more respectable (and expensive!!) fixes on that car with fiberglass and they didn't last any longer.
I'm going to try something similar with my '05 Accord, which is just starting to show rust-through in a few places. I'll start with rust neutralizer, which works if you can get it to all of the rust, which is no easy task on a car. Then I'll use vegetable oil, which dries and hardens over a very, very long period of time; just enough to cover the surface of the neutralized rust. The foam will be next, than another layer of vegetable oil from above, in hopes of keeping any condensation out of the foam. I have no idea how this will hold up, but with a little bondo on the outside, I expect it to look passable while it lasts. The car has 140,000 miles, so it doesn't owe me anything, and I'm not about to throw $2,500 into a still temporary paint and repair job.
No Name good stories
kinda looks like my truck but i like to cut the foam back a bit from being flush and then add bondo on top of the foam and then sand it flush
that is a good tip i wish i would have done that at the time
Do you paint on top of the foam or put body filler on top of it then paint?
you shoould put body filler on top before paint, but thats not what i did lol
Actually the best way to go if ur gonna do it this way is use fiberglass over the foam then put the body filler over that and then sand and paint it u just gotta make sure that u get the foam completely covered
@@augusteast6518 thanks that's exactly what I did
Ultimate Jerry Rig!! If can't fix it right then don't fix it at all.
4Xprops !!!! Gotta do what you gotta do bro
My only question is why you dont grind off all the rust. Will it not keep better ?
i dont know haha
Where did you buy the metal sheet with the self tapping screws please? Thanks.
Fabulous Mo homedepot or Canadian tire
Okay thank you.
Did you use 2lb or half pound spray foam? It looks like half pound? 2lb would actually add a little structural integrity. 2 lb would set in 10 mins. 24 hours for a full cure. I work as a spray foam helper so this is good news for me haha
i have no idea
So how did you screw the fender flare in with that foam? I'm looking to by flares soon for my 2nd gen and not really sure how I should mount them
I ised self tappers all along the inside of the fender, and in places where there was a lot of foam, I used long wood screws that would grab pretty well
+TrucksAndTuners Okay cool. So you didn't have to pre drill any holes since you used self tappers
+Mike Rosa yup pretty much :)
That poor 2nd gen
Nice truck but cut out the rust , truck needs new rockers and fenders and it'd be mint
Yeah oh well, can't have everything, check out my latest vids
why bother to fix at
Because
Dude look in the mirror and honestly say this car is road worthy! You know the truth.
its road worthy *while looking in the mirror*
Check out local junk yards for cheap spare parts like wing ore rocker panels i guess 25$ and in the years get a wig welder have a friend show you basic improve your skills its a great hobby good luck
Robert Schuster I guess you haven't realized this vid is well over a year old and I've sold and bought like 5 vehicles since then
Frank A lolol
WIG is German Wolfram-Inertgas-Schweissen looked it up English is TIG Tugsten-Inertgas-Welding
that truck belongs in a junk yard
yeah its garbage
at least ur mommy and daddy didn't buy it tho
DHGZOMBIEKILLER 1320 seems like a lot of people are being exposed lately for not buying their own rides lol
cuz now a days everyone is mom's Lil bby and gets things given to them haha
DHGZOMBIEKILLER 1320 Your face belongs in the junkyard. 😝
JUST BUY A USED FENDER....THIS IS A STUPID WASTE OF TIME....
Pos